Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • nisinfiguynisinfiguy Member Posts: 13
    I have a 97 Acura Integra LS with only 60k miles on it, and the thing is a jewel, but I have some problems/comments. First off, do Integras have mediocre AC systems, bc mine is cold only after about 30 minutes of running the engine...and the car never seems to cool off except at night (I live in south Louisiana with 90+ temp with tons of humidity) Is it worth taking to the shop and pay 70 bucks for the guy to tell me its fine? Second, the RADIATOR! On such a great car, I have to trully say the radiator has been nothing short of a nightmare for me and my dad (im 17). When I first realized it was losing water I told my dad, and he took a look at it and decided we should take it in. So we did, and ended up paying about 500 dollars for a brand new radiator bc the original one was cracked...badly.
     So that radiator worked out for about a month, and THAT one cracked. So we brought it back and he fixed it free of charge. But that wasnt the end, in the process, SOMEHOW, he damaged the lower engine mount, and refuses to accept responsibility for it. We are still fighting that one. Other than those problems the car has been a jewel. Definately a good car to invest in for a teenager. Moral of the story, STAY AWAY from Joe Boudreaux car shops that claim to be "Import Specialists" even though it costs more, I will bring my cars straight to the Dealerships from now on. Hope this helps some people avoid the headaches I had over nothing.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    was replaced for the first time at 220K, and that one is still going strong 20K+ miles later.

    As for the A/C, it seems to be fine, but we have not yet had any real heat, so its real test won't occur for a couple of months yet.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • danf5danf5 Member Posts: 38
    The big difference, and the reason I bought a GS in '91 instead of an LS, is that the GS had anti-lock brakes and the LS didn't.
  • danf5danf5 Member Posts: 38
    nisifiguy, I believe your tale of woe and it doesn't compute.

    I ran a '91 GSR for 415k miles, had the radiator rodded out once. Eventually gave up on getting R-12 and had the a/c switched over to R-134.That's it.

    Now have a '98 GSR bought at 58K miles, now at 150K. So far, no cooling problems and the a/c is strong. Its been to FL and TX in hot weather, went cross-country last September. No problems, including no cooling or a/c problems.

    Its best to cool the car down by setting airflow to recirc, fan to 4, and then running the a/c. Also, the Integra's a/c system is a remix system, so if the mix valve doesn't turn off the heat you'll never get cool air. You might check that. I did have that happen once with my '91.
  • integraguy16integraguy16 Member Posts: 28
    I bought my '94 GSR about a year and a half ago, w/ 134K on the clock. At about 138K, the timing belt broke. Somehow, the valves were fine, nothing happened. While the timing belt was off, the water pump was replaced. At about 140K, the original clutch went out, and the front axles were gone, so that's $1100 right there installed. Soon after, the crank pulley shot off because the timing belt hadn't been torqued down sufficiently. While sitting in the shop with them telling me it needed an engine rebuild, somebody from the shop stole the ECU. So, when I get the pulley put back on ($200) and a new ECU ($800... mechanic couldn't find a used one), there's another grand. And somewhere in there, the radiator split, and the car overheated, causing the fan motor to go out. I know this wasn't the cars fault, but the moral is, have things replaced when they need to be, by a reputable shop, and things should be fine.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    mainly, the moral should be do the repairs at a knowledgable shop. For Acura VTEC engines, it is a good idea to go to a place that just does Acura, or Acura/Honda, because that timing belt installation requires special attention and expertise.

    And theft of your engine parts while you had it in for service? This shop sounds like it truly sucks. You didn't ask for reimbursement or sue?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • carscoutcarscout Member Posts: 11
    Hi there, I am new to this discussion and would like to get some advice on purchasing an Acura/Honda.

    My budget exceeds 16 grand so anything below is fine. Im looking for a 2 door, 4 cylinder, v-tec engine Acura/Honda, which is reliable and decent looking. Can anyone help me out?
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586

    I found a 91 Tegra w/165kms, 5spd, all power, sunroof, leather. The interior and exterior are in great shape. I drove the car yesterday and it was pretty good.

    What things should I look out for? The rad was replaced and it looks like the timing belt was done too. The dealer is removing the usual Honda/Acura rust from above the rear wheel wells and painting the 2 rear panels so they match with the rest of the car. The AC is good, everything seems to work fine. He's fixing the passenger power window - the motor runs and pulls up the window, but the panel might be on too tightly and the window goes up VERY slowly. He said by Friday (tomorow) the car will be ready. I'll go see it Sunday or next Monday.

    What should I look out for? I like the car and the price. And especially the mileage (103K miles).

    The head gasket was not replaced. I heard older Integras and Civics LOVE head gaskets? Should I be worried it wasn't done?

    Thanks for your help!

    Here's the car: 2823226

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    is on its original head gasket at 243K, so I would not call it something to worry about from personal experience.

    I assume you have checked the CV joints, and there are no problems - also boots are fresh and intact?

    Be sure the timing belt was done, or better yet, have them do it now.

    Valve cover gaskets and distributor o-rings tend to leak - not such a big deal though.

    Make sure all the primary ignition parts that would fall under routine maintenance are fresh - friends' integras have tended to go through those fast.

    carscout: you should be able to get a late 90s or even 2000 integra GSR for that money - that will have the VTEC engine.

    Or you could an almost brand new Civic EX (which has VTEC) for that money - lower power, different car. Do you want a Honda or an Acura? Civic is a coupe with a trunk, integra is/was a fastback hatch.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    The distributor cap and sparkplug wires are new. The right side CV boot is brand new. I'll have to take a more thorough look at the joints. I'll bring my cousin's 91 Integra along for a better comparo when I go see it on Monday - will most likey (90% sure rite now) get it.


    PS: I remember asking this same question last May when I was toying with the idea of an MX-3 or Integra. Looks like it's gonna be an Integra.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    they replaced one boot and the other one did not need replacement? Maybe one CV failed and they just did one side, not such a great sign. (could mean the other side is ready to go - dealer quotes $500 per to replace them, although I am sure there must be cheaper parts and labor available).

    Get it in a parking lot and crank the wheel all the way over, drive forward slowly, listen to them. Do the same thing with wheel cranked the other way. If you don't hear anything, should be fine since this is only a "tide over" car 'til next year for you, right?

    Cap, rotor, wires, plugs are all crucial for integras - they use 'em hard. Good that these are new.

    PS Don't know if everyone does this, but I always park the car, then rev it a little and turn the wheels all the way left and right - good way to get a rough idea of the condition of the rack and the steering pump. (you want to hear nothing beyond a slight wheeze from the pump, and have movement be smooth and fluid)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • gearhead10gearhead10 Member Posts: 84
    I've got a '91 with 112,000 miles on it. All the things you mentioned have been replaced--radiator, timing belt, water pump, head and valve cover gaskets, CV boots. I've also replaced the distributer, cam seals and various belts and hoses as it is 12 years old.

    A couple of things you didn't mention that I had to replace/repair on a previously owned and sold Integra (I've had two '91s in my family) is the master cylinder and rack + pinion. Brake pedal sank almost to the floor while waiting at a stoplight with the a/c on. There's a valve in the cylinder that commonly starts leaking that causes this. Rack + pinion was also leaking fluid. Also had to replace the whole exhaust including cat--muffler and cat were rusted out after 10 years.

    Nippononly's advice to test CV joints is good--don't want to hear any 'clicking' noise. Price for replacement from dealer is not surprisingly high--I've had one side replaced for $200, mostly labor.

    Okay, after all this I still think it's a great car and engine still runs strong even though it burns a little oil. Still pulls all the way to redline. Only complaint is heavy understeer as 64% of weight is on front wheels. Handling and road feel are greatly improved with aftermarket rims--stock 14" wheels are a joke. Stock speakers are also cheap and rears are probably in bad shape from being in sun all the time. Replace all of them or move fronts to rear and get new fronts.

    My wife and I only need two cars and have two much newer ones but still keep our old Integra as a third car--just can't bring ourselves to part with it for amount of money it currently goes for.:) Good luck.
  • dsantiagodsantiago Member Posts: 13
    As it has 144k on the Odometer. I've been eyeing it for awhile now (white, with gold emblem). Actually took some time to turn it on have it run (blocked in lot so no test drive). Here's teh scoop:

    exterior: no signs of damage, immaculate, no rust near sunroof, shocks passed bounce test, exhaust seems new (still looks good at least).

    interior: immaculate, nothing broken, scratched etc....interior conditioned wheel, no scrathes, discolorations etc..

    goodies: sunroof in working condition, quickly opens and closes after 4 tries to trip it up., 10 cd changer in back working, cell phone in center console working (!!!), power windows quickly open and close, and power locks working

    pedals felt great, brake pedal felt good (no squish, nice and firm)...

    engine: stuttered a sec, but no more than when starting up a 2000 camry after not driving it for a few.

    I just wanted to know if this sounded like a good buy...he originally wanted 6K but thanks to edmunds worked him down to 5k...carfax clean by the way...


    btw: damn is insurance high for this car or what(so far got one quote for 2400 w/o collision)
  • goblue87goblue87 Member Posts: 4
    And rust, thanks to the first 60k being in Michigan. Trunk lid and apron only; $900 to replace and paint entire car. CV joints at160k,new struts at 200k, exhaust at 100k and the usual brake pads, timing belts and 3000k oil changes. Still does 28mpg and 1 quart/1500m.
       So do I drop a grand and drive it another 5 years/75k, or am I crazy to even contemplate this when I should just buy a new car?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    I'd buy it. Insurance: not only is it a sport coupe with the "young racing male" stereotype that goes along, but it is a much-stolen car - dump comprehensive and it will go down a lot.

    goblue: expect a radiator and a fuel pump and a couple of hundred $$ of incidentals in the next 75K...if that cost plus what you are putting up now is OK with you, and you still like how it drives, go for it! I would.

    PS I get 34 mpg in mine!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    I haven't found THE car yet, but I'm searching nonetheless.

    Will keep you posted if I find anything. That 91 was leaking coolant and had oil around the head gasket, so I skipped it. It was sold over the weekend BTW.

  • himilerhimiler Member Posts: 1,209
    dsantiago -- that's a good buy. I say snap it up.
  • drewdrew94drewdrew94 Member Posts: 19
    I recently purchased a 94 Integra LS, 5spd, one owner, well taken care of (112K).
    Anyway, the previous owner had replaced the cellunoid ( not sure if I spelled it right) switch on the clutch.
    Here are the problems I am experiencing, I am hoping someone might be able to diagnose what is going on.
    1. Car will sometimes not go into gear with clutch petal to the floor, now if you take your foot totally off the clutch put it in neutral and depress the clutch again it will go into gear, it does this behavior while moving (ie trying to downshift or upshift) and sometimes when trying to get into first from being stopped, it's more so with the moving.
    2. Sometimes the clutch petal will not come all the way back up right away, it will stay have depressed and you can pull it back up with your foot.
    3.There is no slippage or popping out of gear.

    Does the clutch need to be replaced or could it be something more simple like the clutch was not properly adjusted when the switch was replaced? or does the clutch maybe need to be bled?

    Help! I am really thinking it may not be the clutch as much as it might be an adjustment but I need all the advice I can get ASAP, this thing locked up (couldn't get into any gear until I did the "trick" w/petal today at an intersection)so it's a little concerning.

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    has nothing to do with those problems, it would the clutch hydraulic or cable in the '94?

    If it is cable, it may well be out of adjustment, which would cause it to be hard to get into gears as you describe, and might also account for the pedal not returning to the top, depending on how bad it is.

    If it was hydraulic by '94, then the pedal has a spring to pull it back to top position, which maybe came off or was removed or something...also if it is hydraulic, you have a worn clutch, assuming these shifting problems you describe do not happen only when it is stone cold. Hydraulic clutches do not have adjustments.

    One caveat: if these shifting problems only happen in one gear (not counting first gear) you may instead have worn synchros in that gear, which is occasionally a problem in integras, especially if they have been raced or driven hard. If that is the case, it could get expensive, doing the transmission work.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • dsantiagodsantiago Member Posts: 13
    I noticed that alot of people love their integras because of how well it holds up over the years...i agree that as late 80- to early 90's cars goes, the integra takes the car as THE most well aged car of the perios (the legend and vigor get nods also). BUT....

    How well do the auto trannies hold up. I recently posted about a 96 with high mileage (144k) and the replies (thanks ) told me it was a great buy..unfortunately my family disagrees with the opinion that the car is used up (and the trannies are especially used up)...I want to convince them that they're wrong but I since I don't have much experience of knowledge of theses cars I can't do it confidently...can anyone share stories, beliefs, experiences, info, etc to help me plead my case (they wont give me the extra grand I need to get it otherwise)



    P.S. this car discussion segment of the edmunds website it the best!!! I've learned more here than anywhere else...thank you edmunds and thank you fellow board members, your advice in the past has always been appreciated.
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    I couldn't find any Integras in decent shape for sale, but the early 90s Tegra sure is a fine car.

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    I would try to find a manual if I were looking at one with almost 150K and up...Honda autos are just not the greatest in the long term.

    Look at the Legend - an equal to the integra for longevity, if not the actual champ. But even though more automatics were sold in that model back then, the ones that are still around today are mostly the manuals, at least among the pre-1990s.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • himilerhimiler Member Posts: 1,209
    Integra automatics were generally dissed for providing "hard" shifts, but this trait actually makes them more durable because there's less slipping of the clutch packs.

    Don't be afraid of any high-mileage Integra. Just be sure to get the tranny checked at a qualified shop before you buy.
  • himilerhimiler Member Posts: 1,209
    Sounds reasonable, but I'd replace the OE radiator with a Fluidyne unit -- better cooling, stronger core, and it's much better made than the factory piece. - - ype=bykeyword&searchtype=both&part=fluidyne&x=15&- - - y=8

    Acura: 1994-99 Integra, 38 mm tubes, aluminum, radiator

    For the same money, it's a better deal.

    I had to replace both my radiator and A/C condensor ($1200 w/labor!)on my '98 GS-R, and made the mistake of going with a factory radiator. My philosphy is to replace whatever breaks with better aftermarket pieces. That's what I did when my factory exhaust manifold cracked - I put in a DC Sports 4-2-1 header. Wheee!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    you're lucky you didn't damage the head!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • bob374bob374 Member Posts: 6
    My '95 Integra LS 4-door with 77k miles has a braking problem. Pedal slowly sinks to near the floor while braking or holding the car at a light. Obviously a master cylinder, I guess, except the problem is intermittent, happening only when the outside temperature is high and the car is warmed up. Has anyone else had problems like this. Could there be another explanation? I'm taking the car in Thursday to have the master cylinder replaced, because neither the dealer nor I have any other theory.
  • gearhead10gearhead10 Member Posts: 84
    Those are exactly the problems I experienced in my '91 Integra. Replaced the master cylinder and symptoms are gone.
  • bob374bob374 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the response. I had the master cylinder replaced last week. Symptoms are gone.
  • jcw915jcw915 Member Posts: 31
    Hey Guys,
    I just bought a 1995 RS with 65000 miles on there for 6200. The only catch was that the car had a salvaged title, and it is now a clean rebuilt title. I was just wondering if anyone on here has carfax?
    Also, were there any known major problems with that year? The car drives fine...
    Thanks for any advices...

  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    Hi jcw915- In addition to the feedback here, you may also want to check in Edmunds' Maintenance Guide to see if there are any recalls and/or technical service bulletins (TSBs) for your vehicle year?

    Good luck, and please keep us posted on your Acura Integra ownership experience. ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • storms_furystorms_fury Member Posts: 9

    It's my first time posting to the forum, but found it very helpful in my quest to find a new car. I had a 1999 Accord EX coming off of lease and refused to pay (overpay!) what they wanted for the car. I considered an RSX (is it me, or is the rear visibility terrible???) and the Celica (cute but I love Hondas).

    One afternoon, I saw him: my 1995 Integra RS, silver, 34K miles!, sexy! The next day, I was driving home my new obsession. So far, I have put about 500 miles on the car and other than forcing the dealer to replace the timing belt (which they couldn't prove had ever been done), I've had no problems.

    All in all, a great little car, great on gas and very zippy! Now, I want a good keyless/security system on my 'baby'. Any suggestions? I don't want to pay a fortune, but I would absolutely KILL if anyone took him...also, any idea on a good place to get a car cover for him?

    -->one hot chic, loving her newly acquired 'Teg!!!
  • lapvnlapvn Member Posts: 455
    I have a 1993 Integra and with all the rain we are having here in the NE, somewhere or something is blocked that there is water dripping under the dashboard on the passenger side. Actually it only drips while the car is in motion, so this leads me to think that there is an area where water should be draining but it's path is probably clogged, so the water is just getting collected somewhere.

    The car is starting to smell like wet moldy clothes, so for now I am leaving the car inside the garage for the next 5 days with the windows open to dry out.

    Does anyone know how I can fix the above problem, and or where is the problem?

    Post #88 sounds like a similar problem, but no one responded to his post.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    it is not the heater core?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • ss26ss26 Member Posts: 1

    I just bought the integra gs 98. I was looking though this newsgroup and it seems like one thing I need to do is get the timing belt replaced. The car has 63K on it. Does the timing belt need to be replaced right away? Anything else I should be worried about? I showed it to one of my friend mechanic and he said the car is in good condition but not sure if he checked the timing belt.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    is due, and it won't be pretty if it breaks...if you take a peek behind the timing cover and the belt looks new, maybe the last owner changed it?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • storms_furystorms_fury Member Posts: 9
    ...It is worth the money to get the timing belt changed (have the water pump changed too, since the engine will already be torn down at that time).

    You will feel better knowing that it is done and you'll have a costly repair if the belt breaks -- yikes!!!
  • jimc93sijimc93si Member Posts: 34
    from the previous owner showing that the belt and water pump were changed, you need to do those. It is pretty common for people to trade a car in before having to make the big maintenance expenses. The timing belt might last until 100K miles if the car hasn't been abused, but not knowing the history it is an unnecessary risk letting the timing belt go.
     If you know a really good shop with Honda trained technicians you might think about taking it there to save some money, otherwise have a dealership do it. Timing belts and CV joints are the weak knees of front drive cars. The newer Acura RSXs have gone back to the old timing chain.
  • dr_jonesdr_jones Member Posts: 5
    Hey guys, I just recently got a 2001 Integra LS. It seems to be using a lot of oil. I put 5,000 miles on the car (95%+ highway miles) and the guy who changed my oil said that nearly 2/3's of it had been consumed. Is that typical of this particular engine? I haven't noticed any oil leaks, so I don't think that is an issue. I'm not driving the car that hard either, so I really can't explain the problem. Has anyone else noticed anything like this? Thanks.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    uses a quart every 1500 miles, which is not far out of line with what I have come to expect over the years for old Honda engines. Even when they are relatively new, they tend to use a little, although if you were 3 quarts low at oil change time, that is about the same rate as my old car...a little excessive for an '01 unless it has a gazillion miles, but not out of the ballpark.

    And BTW, that thing doesn't have much oil to start with, so if you routinely let it get three quarts low and never check it between changes, it could be early curtains for that car...

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • dr_jonesdr_jones Member Posts: 5
    I appreciate your response. I'll have to keep an eye on the oil, this is just somewhat odd. It's been a while since I've owned a honda vehicle so I didn't realize the engines used so much oil. My last car was turbo charged and it never lost over a quart with similiar driving. Anyhow, I appreciate your advice, I'll certainly keep a close eye on the car. Thanks.
  • integrambaintegramba Member Posts: 5
    Hi; I've got a 95 LS with 134K; it does not burn that much oil, less than one quart each 3,500 miles.
    It used to burn about a quart, but I switched Spark plugs brands (bosch to Denso) and it is almost burning no oil at all now. I do not know if this is actually related but it is what actually happened.
    What you describe seems way too high to me. Regards.
  • integrambaintegramba Member Posts: 5
    bob374 or gearhead10 how much did you pay for the master cylinder job? It seems that my 95 LS (134K) has the same problem..thanks
  • jimc93sijimc93si Member Posts: 34
    My 2000 GSR hasn't used any oil in 2,000 miles. My 93Si would use about 1 cup of oil in 6,000 miles, where I'd usually have it changed, 10w30. The Si has 189,000 miles on it and still gets 40 mpg.
     Maybe the key is having the valves adjusted regularly, I'd have that done every 30,000 miles or so.
  • theflowtheflow Member Posts: 98
    Did they use timing belt or chain in a 1995 Integra??
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • integradriverintegradriver Member Posts: 123
    1997 GSR 5-spd, 83000 miles. Changed Timing and Pump at about 60K, and just had the Radiator replaced this summer. Now I've got a new problem. In the last couple of days, and no matter what gear I'm in, I'm getting a rattling from the engine compartment at about 3000 RPM. Anyone ever experienced this? What's gonna break?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    haven't experienced it. Mine is a lot older than yours though!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • atuzaiatuzai Member Posts: 47
    I am looking for buying a 96 Integra Lx with 101400 miles on it. Test drive it, at begining when engine is not warm or hot, I can feel some gears shift jerks, especially from 1st to 2nd ( 0--25 mile/h), the 2nd to 3rd a little bit smoother. But when drive for couple minutes and engine getting warm or hot, transmission seems much more smoother. Still can feel the jerk but not as strong as begining. I am wondering is this normal for Integra Auto trans? Never drive car like Integra before, so need your guys experience and suggestion. Thanks!
  • integradriverintegradriver Member Posts: 123
    I just changed the battery on my GSR and I must have entered the security code on the radio wrong. Am I stuck with going back to the dealer, or is there some way I can override this thing?
  • dmorlierdmorlier Member Posts: 1
    Just went through the process when I bought a 1999 Integra LS. The battery was dead so when we jumped it, the radio was flashing a message to input the code. Called an Acura service rep and he gave 3 places to get the code. 1. A card furnished with the owners manual. 2. on a sticker inside the glove box, and 3. Remove the radio and the code may be on the back. I was lucky and found a card in the owners manual.. Good luck.

    This Integra is sweet, 44k miles and the car fax is clean.. Question is should I get the timing belt changed?? Acura wants $720 plus tax. Can a Honda dealer replace it??
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