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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)
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Picked up a 94 Integra LS in decent condition. Until I parked it at home for two hours in the hot sun, then it turned over but wouldn't start. Being that I just moved and had no tools available, timing light, yadda yadda. Towed it to a nearby dealer and it started fine. Anyone seen this behavior before? Any parts in particular that could expand in the heat and prevent starting (with turnover).
Thanks
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Nippon's right, I went to the dealer and he got me the code # and the serial number.Two days later, I found the orignal plastic card in amongst my credit cards.
:sick: ">link title
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
starter fuse would be...bingo it started. $60.00. This may or may not be related to your problem.
They said the 99 was so popular because the street racers wanted the fast engines in these cars, and they could be converted over into other Hondas very easily.
I would recommend putting a GPS of America tracking system on it to protect yourself from theft. They are not that expensive to buy, plus only costing 17 bucks a month for constant tracking as well. Much less than most others. They will also shut the car down once they turn the key off where it will not start again too. Plus reveal the exact location the car is at, at all times as well. That is what I am going to put on my car for sure.
Anyway, just thought I would share what I read today concerning the Acura Integras.
Sandy
The Sandman (aka Sandy)
Most of the stolen Integras are GSR's (VTEC) and the limited production Type-R. What makes Integras the highest ranking stolen car is the percentage of the cars being stolen. Not a lot of Integras were sold after '98. From '94 to '97 an average of 40-50,000 Integras per year were sold. From '98 to '01 sales dropped to the 30,000's. This number is small, say compared to the Civic or Accord that sell at the rate of almost 400,000/yr. This is why the Integra continues to be the No1 stolen car. In '00 or '01 I read that almost 1 out of 10 Integras had been stolen.
If you own an '94+ Integra RS (which was discontinued early '98), LS or GS, or basically the 140hp Integra, you car is much less likely to be stolen than the 170hp GSR. Nearly 2 out of 10 Integras sold were GSR's. I believe the reason thieves prefer prefer '99 models, is because the '00 and '01 models came with the immobilizer.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Its a 93 gs hatch 5 speed. Its been wrecked from the front but thats not the problem. The problem started when my brother and i changed the valve cover gasket, water pump and timing belt and adjusted the valves. The car works fine at high speed but it sometimes has problems starting and it seems to be gasping for air when it idols. It just seems like it wants to turn off but it doesnt. we got a code from the car that said it was something with ignition. My brother was thinking that it might be the distributor. The valves were really loose before we adjusted them and the timing belt is on right. The car had been running fine before we did these changes. Could we just of overtighten the valves, or could it be something else. I really enjoy driving the car so i hate to see it parked in the driveway.
Please if anyone has an idea i would appreciate your help.
I hope you just didn't "tighten" the valves but measured the gap properly with a thickness gauge that meassures to 1/1000th of an inch. I know people that have gone to the narrowest setting allowed (see the sticker under your hood) by Honda, (or lower if they didn't measure the gap properly) and had some rough idleing or it seemed like it didn't have good spark..
The timing belt installation in '90-93 Integras can be tricky. I 've know mechanics and repair shops that have installed them incorrectly. It's been a while so I don't remember exactly where people make the same mistake installing the timing belt. There is a trick to it when installing a new one but that data has been pushed out of my brain to make room for new ones.. It wouldn't hurt replacing the distributor cap & rotor, plugs and wires if these parts are several years old. Basically doing a tune up, but most likely the problem will continue. It's something you guys did when performing the other 2 maintenance items.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thanks for your help. If you happen to remember the trick to the timing belt,please let me know.
The dealer replaced a leaky water pump, checked the parts around the transmission, and flushed out the entire transmission. About $600 later, the transmission problem remains and the dealer suggests that I replace the transmission at a cost of $2550.
I recently heard that Acura's and Honda's have troublesome transmissions. Should I consider my car a goner and donate it or try to salvage my car? Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I mean, you could buy a 2000 LS owned by some little ol grandma, pick it up for $9-10K with those miles, and put on rims, suspension, and a CAI of your choosing for almost the same money. AND it would have working A/C!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Good luck, let me know what you find out and I'll do the same.
I had to let the car sit for 6 months until I could afford to take it to get fixed. When I eventually did they replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and cleaned the fuel system as well as an oil change which came to $389 and was supposed to fix the problem. Well I just got it back from the shop yesterday, and when I took it on the highway the rpm's still did a little jumping and the check oil light came on. This is how it all started in the first place until it eventually got worse and worse to where I couldn't drive it. Now I wish I never bought it in the first place.
Can anybody tell me why this might be happening?
First of all, what do you mean it jumps from 2K to 6K rpm? The tach needle jumps, or you actually hear the engine rev way up? And did the car slow down when this happened?
And sometimes the car just stalls when you are driving along? If so, replacing the maintenance parts you just had replaced will not fix the problem. The car actually requires a repair. Did this shop actually drive the car? I would take it back to them, and take a mechanic out with you onto the highway, where you can demonstrate the car's problems.
It sounds like the car has both electrical problems and transmission problems, but it is hard to be sure because your description of the problems leaves me wondering exactly what is really happening.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Any help would be much appreciated.
I think that explains the "gasping for air" phenomenon as well. Best guess without seeing the car.
The stalling thing is a separate problem most likely, but not definitely. If you find out there is an expensive problem with the transmission, and you are inclined to fix it, don't do so until you get the stalling thing checked out as well.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
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Engine is 1.8L, 5-speed, 170K, 2,500 since last change (by %#*x^ Jiffy Lube), normally uses about 1 qt 10W-30 between 5K changes of oil and filter..
Is the light telling me I have a bad filter, sender, loose wire, catastrophic failure imminent, what?
Thanks in advance - I'll change the oil and filter again to see it that cures it.
David, in central Virginia
4 new brake pads and rotors sounds like about a $700 job at the dealer - no huge surprise there either. Again, if you had gone to a brake place, it would have been two or three hundred $$ cheaper, non-OEM parts, and might have done the job just as well.
For future reference, Acura OEM parts are pricey compared to the aftermarket, when available. And of course, for anything that is not strictly normal maintenance, the dealer will usually be the most expensive place you can go. You have the comfort of knowing that people specially trained for your car are working on it, and that the parts used will be OEM, but you pay for that comfort. Through the nose, in Acura's case. You also usually get a longer warranty, and the chance to develop a relationship with your dealer so that when the unusual repair DOES come up a few years down the line, they will go the extra yard for you.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
:-)
If you can find a good full-service repair shop (not just brakes or tires, or whatever) that works exclusively on Honda/Acuras or just on Japanese cars, that is probably your best bet for balancing repair cost against repair quality. I am still struggling to find a good import repair shop that I really like in my area, so with my old Integra I was going to the dealer for most stuff, knowing I was spending some extra dough for the peace of mind of getting it done right the first time. Plus my local dealer is nice: good people and free latte. :-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The best thing that I would advise you would be to either buy a VW b/c you mentioned they're more popular there (increases resell value and makes it easier to get cheap quality work done) or to find someone that you can pay cash to to do your car stuff. Brakes are not that hard to do you need maybe three tools at best and you've got to undo two screws after you get the wheel off. In high school we would pay this guy like $20-40 to do our brakes for us so anything more than 100-200 for all four brakes and rotors is just ridiculous!!! If you're earning anything less than $4,000/mo. I would say you're throwing your hard earned money out the window. Just my 2cents though. Myabe you should check your history and estimate how much you spend on car maintence each mo. and and see if it's worth it to you to you to REALLY look for someone that can do your car stuff for cheaper.
PS: If it's any consolation though my GF's mom spent $1,000 to get 2 new rotors and 4 new brake pads on her VW at the dealership! :surprise:
FYI, for future searches on the same problem. Thanks for responses.
David
Thanks for responding. My dealer couldn't find anything wrong outside of the transmission, but they charged me $180 to flush the transmission, which only made the problem much worse, not better. I'm still trying to figure out a solution that doesn't cost $2500.
One person sent me the following advice regarding the transmission problem our cars are experiencing:
"As for the rest of the car, well those old Integras had few old age problems of any serious note. They eventually begin to let the rain in under the hatch - you should check in the spare tire well and make sure that isn't already happening. That is fixable but usually a pain to track down. Make sure your CV joints and boots are in good shape - replacement of two axles is around $1000. And look for oil leaks - are there many? Are there accessories that have stopped working?
The rest of this car is pretty durable. If I were you, I would ask myself the questions above. If the car is solid except for the transmission, I would ask myself if I would pay $3100 to BUY that car used today. Quite possibly you would - they are nice cars, and fun to drive. If so, go for it! And remember, if you do, make sure you are up to date on timing belt replacement - that would normally be coming due around 120K. Hopefully the dealer just did it when they replaced the water pump.
BTW, if there ARE other known problems with the car, especially engine problems, I would just call it a day and look for something a little newer."
Keep me posted if you figure out the problem!
The clutch connection has me baffled! Are you sure you are not just imagining that part? When you hit the clutch and the engine revs drop, the vacuum increases. Perhaps that has something to do with it.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
i had previously had two occassions when it wouldn't turn on...no lights either...and both times turned on fine about 8-10min later. a tires plus guy (i was near them when it happened the second time) said it could be theft deterrent (i unlock it via the passenger side since an accident a while back where they never properly repaired the locks).
the dealer says there's nothign wrong. they did make a new key and said maybe it was the key but don't know. he says his tech's driven it home with no issues.
any thoughts? i'm still worried. its a 2000 integra
just called my Acura dealer to schedule a 105K maintenance on my '97 Integra LS (its been a GREAT car for me!), and they recommended that before I do that maintenance, I do a "timer belt replacement". Sounded good to me, as I've heard issues with folks blowing out Integra engines due to worn out timer belts.
Then I got the price quote for this "maintenance" : $700+ !!! Is this reasonable? Or is it a total sham? I mean, the belt itself is about $150! Perhaps this is VERY labor intensive? Or standard practice is to perform other timer belt oriented maintenance along with it?
Just curious how much others have paid and/or if anyone else has even had this done at a dealer?
Thanks!
-steve