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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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Comments

  • removationremovation Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    Picked up a 94 Integra LS in decent condition. Until I parked it at home for two hours in the hot sun, then it turned over but wouldn't start. Being that I just moved and had no tools available, timing light, yadda yadda. Towed it to a nearby dealer and it started fine. Anyone seen this behavior before? Any parts in particular that could expand in the heat and prevent starting (with turnover).

    Thanks
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    fuel pump relay, under the dash, in the hot sun they stop working as they age, then later on they work again. Cheap to fix.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • tlopeztlopez Member Posts: 2
    Well one wat to tell is by the rims if there stock and there hub caps its not a v-tec if there alumimun alloy it could be , also look at the engine code if it say b17a1 or b18 its a vtec good luck!!
  • tlopeztlopez Member Posts: 2
    I have a ? I have a 92 gs-r b17a1 and some one told me that its a good idea to let your v-tec warm up before you drive it is this true?
  • gsracer05gsracer05 Member Posts: 2
    Watup guys? yea so thanks nippononly it is a GS-R not a swap......well anyways im thinking about getting started on some upgrades on this thing i have already installed a Panasonic 45*4 NO SKIP deck with amp preouts.....i got 2 p1 10 inch fosgate subs in a sealed box with a p301M fosgate amp sounds great!!!!! but no more weight ...i have also re-tinted the windows to a 5 percent black ......i have another 500 bucks that i want to put into the engine im thinking a really good and effective cold air intake for a 95 GS-R...any recommendations? any other upgrades around 300 bucks after the 200 near round cold air intake system???thanks guys any help is appreciated
  • newgenrockernewgenrocker Member Posts: 2
    Okay, i just bought this used 1991 Acura Integra. It came with a Acura 6 cd disk changer installed in the trunk. i was told the previous owner couldnt get it to work. the face in the dash just always says Err 1. The actual disc changer in the trunk doesn't do anything. i can see a cd in there, but it won't eject or anything. some have told me to reset my system by diconnecting the battery, but i cant do that because the regular sterero has an antitheft device that shuts down the system if the power is disconnected and you need a code to get it to work again, and i dont have that code. what should i do? any suggestions would be helpful and greatly appreciated.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    a dealer can get you the code, I believe, as long as you show the documents to prove you own the car.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • joe249joe249 Member Posts: 95
    The sub woofer on my Type S mounted on the doughnut had to go so I did what you did. (well not exactly)
    Nippon's right, I went to the dealer and he got me the code # and the serial number.Two days later, I found the orignal plastic card in amongst my credit cards.
    :sick: ">link title
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    also writes the radio code in the little book, if you still have the books that came with the car.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • newgenrockernewgenrocker Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the help, but i'm actually looking for some advice on what to do about the 6 disc cdchanger.
  • y2k_lsy2k_ls Member Posts: 2
    they are helping with the disc changer. they said to disconnect the battery for a while to try resetting the cd changer, but then you will need the code they are talking about to restart your radio/player !
  • amm2amm2 Member Posts: 12
    I had this problem with a 92 integra rs. The dealer replaced the starter. The problem only occurred in the heat. I found out by browsing Honda forums at the time that this is a Honda starter fuse problem. I also had a Honda service manager advise me the same thing. At one point during a hot afternoon I had an Acura manager advise me to punch to the left side of the steering wheel where the
    starter fuse would be...bingo it started. $60.00. This may or may not be related to your problem.
  • sandy10sandy10 Member Posts: 1
    Amazingly, I just read on the internet the 1999 Acura Integra is the No. 1 car stolen this year. But not only that, the 98 Integra is 3rd, the 96 is in 6 place, the 95 is in 7th place, the 97 is in 9th place, the 2001 is in 11th place, the 94 is in 14th place and the 2000 Acura Integra is in 16th place. Meaning the Acura Integra is the most popular car for thieves to steal taking a whopping 8 places out of a total of 25. The other type cars being various makes and models, only 2 other makes listed twice within the 25.

    They said the 99 was so popular because the street racers wanted the fast engines in these cars, and they could be converted over into other Hondas very easily.

    I would recommend putting a GPS of America tracking system on it to protect yourself from theft. They are not that expensive to buy, plus only costing 17 bucks a month for constant tracking as well. Much less than most others. They will also shut the car down once they turn the key off where it will not start again too. Plus reveal the exact location the car is at, at all times as well. That is what I am going to put on my car for sure.

    Anyway, just thought I would share what I read today concerning the Acura Integras.

    Sandy
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    I read the same thing also. Have always loved the Integra's since they came out!

    The Sandman (aka Sandy) :)
  • only1harryonly1harry Member Posts: 1,140
    The Integra has been the #1 stolen car since the late '90's.

    Most of the stolen Integras are GSR's (VTEC) and the limited production Type-R. What makes Integras the highest ranking stolen car is the percentage of the cars being stolen. Not a lot of Integras were sold after '98. From '94 to '97 an average of 40-50,000 Integras per year were sold. From '98 to '01 sales dropped to the 30,000's. This number is small, say compared to the Civic or Accord that sell at the rate of almost 400,000/yr. This is why the Integra continues to be the No1 stolen car. In '00 or '01 I read that almost 1 out of 10 Integras had been stolen.

    If you own an '94+ Integra RS (which was discontinued early '98), LS or GS, or basically the 140hp Integra, you car is much less likely to be stolen than the 170hp GSR. Nearly 2 out of 10 Integras sold were GSR's. I believe the reason thieves prefer prefer '99 models, is because the '00 and '01 models came with the immobilizer.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • 90gs90gs Member Posts: 107
    Just to kind of build on what everyone's said, the things you wanna be aware of is what you have specifically in your integra that theives want. Most theives want the GSR's because of three essential items: Leather seats ($300-400 on ebay), GSR rims: Blades / 5spokes ($300-400 on ebay) and sometimes they wanna run a "hot" (stolen) motor in their hatch back or civic. The immobilizer Harry speaks of is the best defense they could come up with for the 2001 GSR. However here in the bay area we've even had a couple of RSX's stolen too!! You'd think wit :surprise: h all that anti-theft, window frame, new wiring locations!!!
  • deviousguydeviousguy Member Posts: 6
    Hello everyone im having a problem with my integra.
    Its a 93 gs hatch 5 speed. Its been wrecked from the front but thats not the problem. The problem started when my brother and i changed the valve cover gasket, water pump and timing belt and adjusted the valves. The car works fine at high speed but it sometimes has problems starting and it seems to be gasping for air when it idols. It just seems like it wants to turn off but it doesnt. we got a code from the car that said it was something with ignition. My brother was thinking that it might be the distributor. The valves were really loose before we adjusted them and the timing belt is on right. The car had been running fine before we did these changes. Could we just of overtighten the valves, or could it be something else. I really enjoy driving the car so i hate to see it parked in the driveway.
    Please if anyone has an idea i would appreciate your help.
  • only1harryonly1harry Member Posts: 1,140
    You 're on the right track. The problem is either with the installation of the timing belt or the valve clearance adjustment, ie: whatever you messed with last.

    I hope you just didn't "tighten" the valves but measured the gap properly with a thickness gauge that meassures to 1/1000th of an inch. I know people that have gone to the narrowest setting allowed (see the sticker under your hood) by Honda, (or lower if they didn't measure the gap properly) and had some rough idleing or it seemed like it didn't have good spark..

    The timing belt installation in '90-93 Integras can be tricky. I 've know mechanics and repair shops that have installed them incorrectly. It's been a while so I don't remember exactly where people make the same mistake installing the timing belt. There is a trick to it when installing a new one but that data has been pushed out of my brain to make room for new ones.. It wouldn't hurt replacing the distributor cap & rotor, plugs and wires if these parts are several years old. Basically doing a tune up, but most likely the problem will continue. It's something you guys did when performing the other 2 maintenance items.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • deviousguydeviousguy Member Posts: 6
    Yeah At first we did just tighten them but realized that that wasnt the right thing to do. So we went and bought the vehicle maintenance manual and got the gapping from there. The strange thing though is that the dealer told us a different gapping than the manual. We went with what the manual told us. So i guess the thing to do is retrace our step and try to readjust the timing belt and check the gapping on the valves.
    Thanks for your help. If you happen to remember the trick to the timing belt,please let me know.
  • hairgueyhairguey Member Posts: 1
    My 92 Integra runs great all the time but will not start unless I let it sit for 20 minutes before attempting to start it after turning engine off. Can this be the fuel pump relay as well? Any other ideas if that is not the fix it?
  • mperkinsmperkins Member Posts: 1
    Looking at a 94 hatchback with 158000 miles. It looks in great shape. What kind of mileage are folks getting from these engines?
  • map5map5 Member Posts: 5
    My 90 Integra had the same problem and the mechanics couldn't solve it for a couple of years. The car would start up and run fine in hot weather until I stopped and turned off the engine. If I tried to start the car again within a few minutes, it wouldn't start. I'd have to wait 10 minutes or more before I could get the car started again. They cleaned the torque plate to no avail. Finely, last year, the guys at Zimbrick Acura suggested replacing the main relay. As the problem has not reemerged this summer, I'm assuming that did the trick.
  • map5map5 Member Posts: 5
    I'm looking for any information or advice. I have a 1990 Acura Integra 2DR Hatch, which I purchased new and have taken good care of. It has about 118k miles. This winter I started having intermittent problems, which have gotten noticeably worse this summer. For the first 10 minutes or so of driving the car, the automatic transmission will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. The car revs at 3000 RPM at 30 mph and 4000 RPM at 40 mph. After a while, the car will jolt a little as it finally shifts into 3rd and the RPMS will drop down to normal levels. At first this problem occurred only when I started the car for the first time of the day, but now (after the dealer has had at it) it happens every time I start the car.

    The dealer replaced a leaky water pump, checked the parts around the transmission, and flushed out the entire transmission. About $600 later, the transmission problem remains and the dealer suggests that I replace the transmission at a cost of $2550.

    I recently heard that Acura's and Honda's have troublesome transmissions. Should I consider my car a goner and donate it or try to salvage my car? Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
  • integinteg Member Posts: 2
    I am looking at a 2000 Integra LS w/ GS upgrades, it has about 67000 miles, custom blue paint, rims and tires, adjustable suspension, cold air, and an average sound system w/ amp and sub. They are asking $13500 but i think thats too much considering edmunds price of around $8500 but thats stock price. I thought about $11500 would be a good price. The air conditioning is broke because of the idiot who installed the cold air, and there is a pretty nice crack in the bumper that needs repair. What price does everyone else think is good?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    you've got a cracked bumper cover and no A/C? I would say $8500 is the most I'd pay, unless you just LOVE the paint job and rims. In that case, maybe go as high as $10K.

    I mean, you could buy a 2000 LS owned by some little ol grandma, pick it up for $9-10K with those miles, and put on rims, suspension, and a CAI of your choosing for almost the same money. AND it would have working A/C!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • sandiegodavesandiegodave Member Posts: 1
    I can't get the stupid light on my dash to go out. I have mashed away on the little button under the dash but the light wont go out. Any ideads?
  • slajjsslajjs Member Posts: 2
    My 90 Integra does the same thing. Started doing it last winter and has gotten worse over the last few months. Sometimes it will go the first 2 or so miles before it will shift properly. Once it shifts the first time it will work fine until the car cools down again (has to sit a couple of hours). I bought a manual for the tranny and checked out the shift solenoids, which seemed ok. The car is in good shape and I hate to dump it but I can't seem to find anyone who knows about these trannys. It's definitely not worth putting $2500+ into it.

    Good luck, let me know what you find out and I'll do the same.
  • 92integraman92integraman Member Posts: 3
    After doing much research on "reliable" used cars, I bought my 1992 Integra gs (automatic) with 120,000 miles on it, and after one month of driving it it started having problems. On the highway mostly, the rpm's would drastically start to jump anywhere from 2,000 to 6,000 within seconds on a random basis. Sometimes while driving, the car would just shut off and then turn back on seconds later. I know very little about cars, but it felt to me like the gas was somehow not getting to the engine. Other times when it would shut off, I had to pull over and wait about 15 minutes until it decided to start back up again. This happened more frequently the more I drove it until eventually it wouldn't start up at all.

    I had to let the car sit for 6 months until I could afford to take it to get fixed. When I eventually did they replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and cleaned the fuel system as well as an oil change which came to $389 and was supposed to fix the problem. Well I just got it back from the shop yesterday, and when I took it on the highway the rpm's still did a little jumping and the check oil light came on. This is how it all started in the first place until it eventually got worse and worse to where I couldn't drive it. Now I wish I never bought it in the first place.

    Can anybody tell me why this might be happening?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I don't understand what you are saying - please clarify.

    First of all, what do you mean it jumps from 2K to 6K rpm? The tach needle jumps, or you actually hear the engine rev way up? And did the car slow down when this happened?

    And sometimes the car just stalls when you are driving along? If so, replacing the maintenance parts you just had replaced will not fix the problem. The car actually requires a repair. Did this shop actually drive the car? I would take it back to them, and take a mechanic out with you onto the highway, where you can demonstrate the car's problems.

    It sounds like the car has both electrical problems and transmission problems, but it is hard to be sure because your description of the problems leaves me wondering exactly what is really happening.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • 92integraman92integraman Member Posts: 3
    Yes, the tach neadle would jump from 2K to 6K and the engine would rev up as well. It would do this rapidly whithin a matter of a few seconds. When it did this the engine felt like it was "gasping" for air. It's kinda hard to explain but it felt as if the gas was not reaching the engine or something and it would start "gasping" and the rpm's would rapidly start bouncing around and the engine would rev up as well. The car would also slow when this happened, kinda like it was studdering. I know verry little about cars so i really have no idea what it could be.

    Any help would be much appreciated.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    slowed down and the engine revved up when you were driving along, you have a transmission problem, and it may be a doozy. Could be anything from cheap stuff like a problem with the linkage (shifting into neutral while driving along even though you don't move the handle) to very expensive stuff like a failing torque converter. Given your talk of "shuddering", I think it is most likely a dying torque converter, but you should take it to a transmission shop and ask them to drive it on the highway and advise you.

    I think that explains the "gasping for air" phenomenon as well. Best guess without seeing the car.

    The stalling thing is a separate problem most likely, but not definitely. If you find out there is an expensive problem with the transmission, and you are inclined to fix it, don't do so until you get the stalling thing checked out as well.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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  • hml201hml201 Member Posts: 11
    Hi, I have a 2000 Acura Integra LS sedan. It runs to 86,000 miles now. Two weeks ago, we brought the car to a local Acura dealer to replace the brakes. It ended up the dealer said they had to replace both the front and rear pads and rotors. The total cost is $780. One week later, my car suddently lost power when I was driving on the road. When I pushed gas, the engine just sounded like a thunder noise. I can still get a little speed at 20mph. So I drove to the same dealer(luckily it was only 2 miles away). They checked it and said the b pipe leaked. They replaced the b pipe and it cost me $513. Just want to know if all these charges sound reasonable? I just feel they are too high. But no experience on this. Thanks a lot for your advice.
  • 74volunteer74volunteer Member Posts: 2
    Near the end of my commute yesterday morning, my '91's oil light came on when idling at the last traffic light, then began flashing regularly about once a second until returning to idle. At the end of the day, the light came on solid after the engine warmed up. I stopped it quickly, looked under the hood for leaks, etc, and checking the level (full). Restarting, no light, then 10 miles later a solid light for 20 miles to home. The engine is running normally (very well), no smell, no oil leaking.
    Engine is 1.8L, 5-speed, 170K, 2,500 since last change (by %#*x^ Jiffy Lube), normally uses about 1 qt 10W-30 between 5K changes of oil and filter..
    Is the light telling me I have a bad filter, sender, loose wire, catastrophic failure imminent, what?

    Thanks in advance - I'll change the oil and filter again to see it that cures it.

    David, in central Virginia
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    to be honest, they don't sound too awfully high for a dealer. Midas would have done the b pipe fix for half the price, probably, but it wouldn't have been the OEM part, and would probably have lasted half the time. Which is only important if you still plan to keep the car for several more years.

    4 new brake pads and rotors sounds like about a $700 job at the dealer - no huge surprise there either. Again, if you had gone to a brake place, it would have been two or three hundred $$ cheaper, non-OEM parts, and might have done the job just as well.

    For future reference, Acura OEM parts are pricey compared to the aftermarket, when available. And of course, for anything that is not strictly normal maintenance, the dealer will usually be the most expensive place you can go. You have the comfort of knowing that people specially trained for your car are working on it, and that the parts used will be OEM, but you pay for that comfort. Through the nose, in Acura's case. You also usually get a longer warranty, and the chance to develop a relationship with your dealer so that when the unusual repair DOES come up a few years down the line, they will go the extra yard for you.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    If you have no funny smells or sounds, the car seems to perform as normal, the oil is full, and you have no overheating or running hot, it is possible it is just a faulty wire or sending unit. I still wouldn't gamble with it too much, I would take it in and have it checked if I were you. It is possible with those miles for something like the oil sender to have gone out, and even though the oil is full it is not pumping properly. Although usually, you would get some other symptom.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • 92integraman92integraman Member Posts: 3
    I just got my car out of the shop and it turns out the oil light was turning on because of a loose connection with the wires or the sensor, thank god. My car is running fine now for the most part. It just worries me when i go on the highway and see the rpm needle bouncing around more than it should at around 3500 rpm's (about 70 mph) because thats how it all started in the first place, real subtle.
  • hml201hml201 Member Posts: 11
    Thank you very much. I did not want to go to Acura dealer at the first. When my brake pads needed to be replaced, I went to a Midas shop. However, they replaced 4 pads and rotors and cost me $500. The job is not well done. I got the noises all the time when I pushed on brakes. I brought the car back to Midas 3 times. They tried to fix it by resurfacing the rotors. It did not work. I just feel they do not have the expertise to fix the car right. That's why I bring my car to the dealer afterwards. They fix the problems right. Just too pricey. Now your reply relieved me a lot. I need to talk to my local pals to find a repair shop who can fix import cars well. Again, I appreciate your reply. Leo
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Hey, wow, so there you go: the job from the brake place WASN'T as good as the dealer's job. Good back-to-back comparison. And the price difference was exactly as much as I thought it would be, $280. *pats himself on the back*

    :-)

    If you can find a good full-service repair shop (not just brakes or tires, or whatever) that works exclusively on Honda/Acuras or just on Japanese cars, that is probably your best bet for balancing repair cost against repair quality. I am still struggling to find a good import repair shop that I really like in my area, so with my old Integra I was going to the dealer for most stuff, knowing I was spending some extra dough for the peace of mind of getting it done right the first time. Plus my local dealer is nice: good people and free latte. :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • hml201hml201 Member Posts: 11
    You are right. It is not easy to find a qualified repair shop for this car. There are quite a few good shops for German cars, but not Japanese cars. Guess have to keep looking.
  • 90gs90gs Member Posts: 107
    hml201 - This might sound a little extreme but I live in the bay area (SF) and I bout a japanese car specifically for this are b/c they are so common and popular here which means that parts are cheaper and more abundent.

    The best thing that I would advise you would be to either buy a VW b/c you mentioned they're more popular there (increases resell value and makes it easier to get cheap quality work done) or to find someone that you can pay cash to to do your car stuff. Brakes are not that hard to do you need maybe three tools at best and you've got to undo two screws after you get the wheel off. In high school we would pay this guy like $20-40 to do our brakes for us so anything more than 100-200 for all four brakes and rotors is just ridiculous!!! If you're earning anything less than $4,000/mo. I would say you're throwing your hard earned money out the window. Just my 2cents though. Myabe you should check your history and estimate how much you spend on car maintence each mo. and and see if it's worth it to you to you to REALLY look for someone that can do your car stuff for cheaper. :)

    PS: If it's any consolation though my GF's mom spent $1,000 to get 2 new rotors and 4 new brake pads on her VW at the dealership! :surprise:
  • 74volunteer74volunteer Member Posts: 2
    The flashing oil light turned out to be the oil pressure sender unit going bad. Small leak, blinking or solid oil light. $32 fix. Glad it wasn't worse.
    FYI, for future searches on the same problem. Thanks for responses.
    David
  • map5map5 Member Posts: 5
    Hi Slajjs --

    Thanks for responding. My dealer couldn't find anything wrong outside of the transmission, but they charged me $180 to flush the transmission, which only made the problem much worse, not better. I'm still trying to figure out a solution that doesn't cost $2500.

    One person sent me the following advice regarding the transmission problem our cars are experiencing:

    "As for the rest of the car, well those old Integras had few old age problems of any serious note. They eventually begin to let the rain in under the hatch - you should check in the spare tire well and make sure that isn't already happening. That is fixable but usually a pain to track down. Make sure your CV joints and boots are in good shape - replacement of two axles is around $1000. And look for oil leaks - are there many? Are there accessories that have stopped working?

    The rest of this car is pretty durable. If I were you, I would ask myself the questions above. If the car is solid except for the transmission, I would ask myself if I would pay $3100 to BUY that car used today. Quite possibly you would - they are nice cars, and fun to drive. If so, go for it! And remember, if you do, make sure you are up to date on timing belt replacement - that would normally be coming due around 120K. Hopefully the dealer just did it when they replaced the water pump.

    BTW, if there ARE other known problems with the car, especially engine problems, I would just call it a day and look for something a little newer."

    Keep me posted if you figure out the problem!
  • hml201hml201 Member Posts: 11
    Thank you, Sir. I live in New Jersey. Japanese cars are also popular here. Strange thing is there are not that many car repair shops who specialize to repair Japanese cars here. Maybe I didn't try hard to find one. When I drive to work everyday, I just see quite a few repair shops who advertise on their store front that they specialize to repair German cars, VW, Audi, Benz, BMW, etc. I know some shops can repair Honda or Toyota cars, but for Acura, it might be the OEM part problem. Even when I did the oil change at a local shop, the guy could not figure it right. He replaced my 4 spark plugs and the air filter. The car just got a huge noise when I drive. I think its the air filter that caused the problem. So I had to bring the car to the dealer to fix it. Another $200 bill. Overall, I would say I still like this car. These are all maintenance costs. I drive it for 6 years now. No other problems, except brakes, tires, oil changes. And the recent b-pipe. So I will ask around if I can find a good shop who can get good parts from Acura. Thanks for your PS. That hurts. Have a good day!
  • myo3073myo3073 Member Posts: 1
    hi, i have a rather interesting brake problem.. My integra 95 (5 speed, manual, LS) has 175K miles, has been a great car thus far with few minor issues. The latest one however is baffling. Just a couple weeks ago I noticed, whenever I tried to stop, I have to pump the brakes inorder to come to a halt. The Firestone where I took it, checked out the master cylinder and found no leaks, told me the hyrdaulic pressure was fine, and just flushed and bled the brake lines. The problem continues....also when I depress the clutch and hit the brakes at the same time, the problem is worse. Any ideas why the braking would be impacted by clutch? Thanks for your advice.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Has anyone checked for a vacuum leak? If there is one, it could make braking harder. And in an older car, it is not uncommon for one of those pesky old vacuum hoses to crack somewhere and develop a leak.

    The clutch connection has me baffled! Are you sure you are not just imagining that part? When you hit the clutch and the engine revs drop, the vacuum increases. Perhaps that has something to do with it.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • teggy_94teggy_94 Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys. I just got in an accident with my 1994 Integra LS. its not th at bad. the guy showed me that only 4 or 5 things need to be done... new right fender, new bumper, new right headlight , new hood hinges, and new hood lining. This guy is trying to charge me 4500 dollars to fix the car!.... hes saying it will take 46 hours of labour to fix it... I know this is bull but I just want to know how many hours you think that would take? The hood isnt bad only about an inch of the right sid got damaged however it can get fixed the guy said. Let me know how many hours you think it would take to fix that as 46 hours seems way to high.. I was guessing between 10-20. Thanks.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    sounds like about $1000-1500 worth of work to me. At that price quote, he is either a total crook, or there is frame damage you don't know about.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • cheryl1213cheryl1213 Member Posts: 2
    a few weeks back, i was driving to work and, while stopped at a light, my car just shut down. a bunch of lights flashed quickly (i saw a coupel, i think it was all of them though) and then it just turned off. i turned the key to off and was able to restart and get to my office (only 2 blocks). i got it towed to the dealer b/c i was scared to drive it.

    i had previously had two occassions when it wouldn't turn on...no lights either...and both times turned on fine about 8-10min later. a tires plus guy (i was near them when it happened the second time) said it could be theft deterrent (i unlock it via the passenger side since an accident a while back where they never properly repaired the locks).

    the dealer says there's nothign wrong. they did make a new key and said maybe it was the key but don't know. he says his tech's driven it home with no issues.

    any thoughts? i'm still worried. its a 2000 integra
  • henbackerhenbacker Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    just called my Acura dealer to schedule a 105K maintenance on my '97 Integra LS (its been a GREAT car for me!), and they recommended that before I do that maintenance, I do a "timer belt replacement". Sounded good to me, as I've heard issues with folks blowing out Integra engines due to worn out timer belts.

    Then I got the price quote for this "maintenance" : $700+ !!! Is this reasonable? Or is it a total sham? I mean, the belt itself is about $150! Perhaps this is VERY labor intensive? Or standard practice is to perform other timer belt oriented maintenance along with it?

    Just curious how much others have paid and/or if anyone else has even had this done at a dealer?

    Thanks!

    -steve
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