What does the dash temperature gauge say? If the gauge rises to the midpoint and appears normal, you may have a clogged heater core instead. If the gauge sits on the bottom, then yes, you need a thermostat.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Namester: Apexi makes 2 exhausts: the N1 and WS. The WS is more quiet and designed for the street. It will still be louder than your stock exhaust. They all are. I hear people like the WS because it's not too noisy. I heard one on a '95 Integra (GSR) last summer while at an auto-x event and it didn't sound bad at all. It's a 2.25" exhaust which is what you want. There 's usually no problems with smog inspection with 2.25" aftermarket exhausts.
Don't go with 2.5" piping (not that many around anyway). They will be loud (I have one) and cost more. That's the price some of us pay for a little more power. Another thing to watch out for is when you replace the Catalytic Converter (aka CAT) with 3d party free-flow CATs or a straight/test pipe, then you will run into problems with passing inspection. You 're pretty safe with a 2.25" exhaust though. I don't know of anyone failing inspection because of an exhaust. It's just a piece of piping with a muffler. Mufflers don't filter pollutants. They only "muffle" the noise.
You also have to be careful with aftermarket headers. If you decide to get a header (I highly recommend it - I got almost 6hp more at the wheels with my old DC Sports 4-2-1 ceramic header), make sure it's CARB approved which means the manufacturer has made sure there won't be any problems with emissions. They are meant to replace your stock header without comprimising the emissions of your vehicle. I have a non-CARB race header (it's says for racing purposes only on it) but my county doesn't have emissions/smog inspection, only safety inspection. I think I may be in trouble in '06 though, because I hear new laws will not allow straight pipes in place of a CAT. Last year they made Cold Air Intakes illegal which is the most stupid thing I have ever heard. I had to put on a short RAM (warm) air intake that I borrowed from someone so I can pass inspection. What are they going to think of next? Aftermarket performance brake pads will be illegal? This is in NY btw. It's a NY State law, no CAI's. Makes me so mad. I 'll have to take it off again in a month and probably my resonated test pipe too.
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Don't beat yourself up too bad. I just took of my illegal headers and intake and replaced them with my stock stuff just to pass smog. It still failed. Well it passed the visual but here in Cali we've gotten even stricter. Now you have to pass the "knock" part which is the only part I failed on. SO in the meantime before I pass smog I'm driving around w/ this 15yr old motor, I lost at least 8 hp, gained a tiny bit of torque from the OEM exhaust manifold and I'm leaking oil everywhere I go. Why does motor building have to take so long!?!?!? :mad:
I've a 94 Integra LS automatic. After not using my car for 2 wks during the winter, it wouldn't start. When the AAA technican came, he said the alternator or starter was frozen and took a stick to bang on something inside the hood (passenger side) as I turned the key. The car finally started fine. But later when I looked into the hood (next to the battery), I found a tubing connection was broken off the top of a plastic cylinder (I later found out this cylinder is a fuel vapor canister). The canister has little sprouts where tubings connect to and one of the sprouts is broken off. Since the canister is made in 1 piece, I'd have to replace the whole thing for around $200.
I don't know much about cars, can someone tell me what the canister actually do and how bad is it to let me car run with the tubing disconnected from it. The car seems to run normally now. However, there is a new rattle noise that occurs when I step on the gas at ~ 30 mph. Wonder if this new noise is related to the disconnected fuel cannister.
The same happened to me (94 Integra). When I turn the key, I hear just 1 click then no sound. But this only happened occasionally. It turned out to be a slightly loose battery cable connection. After that's fixed, it started fine everytime.
That charcoal cannister recovers fuel vapors from the gas tank as your car sits in the parking lot. This is to comply with smog requirements. I don't know how strict your state's smog laws are, but here in California that would fail the visual check at the first inspection and you would be forced to repair it to renew the car's registration.
In the meantime, however, it is not causing damage to anything else to leave it broken like that.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Nippononly: Thanks for the explanation. What a relief to know that my car runs fine without the connection.
Then the new rattle noise is probably a different issue altogther ... Although it may still be caused by the AAA tech banging inside my hood with his stick.
Here is more details about the rattle: Only happens after car is warmed up (after 10 min driving) when I step on the gas at <25 mph. No rattle if I'm driving faster (say 40 mph +) Sound seems to be from the front.
Thanks in advance for anyone helping me diagnose the problem.
I've temporaily fixed the connection by inserting a tiny hard tubing to the holes in the sprout and the flexible tube. It's a quick fix and I'm sure it can only hold a few days/weeks.
I'm wondering if this is good enough for the annual inspection (I live in MA but I guess the inspection criteria is similar to CA).
My 90 Integra does the same thing, Water pours in when I start the car on the passenger side after a good rain .I do not have AC. And where the heck is the drain tube located. The smell of mold is getting me down.
Same problem started this past summer with my 94 Integra LS. Water appears under the glovebox where the passenger's feet would be. It isn't bad yet (A few drips after rain).
I did a search and found a link on how to fix it before (I can't find the link now, but I must have done a search in google.)
From what I remember reading, it's an old washer that needs to be replaced under the windshield. It involves removing the wipers and taking out the cover under the windshield. The job sounds a bit too complicated for me who knows nada about mechanics. So unless it gets real bad, I plan on just to leave it. At least I know it isn't a major problem.
If anyone has tried to fix it, please let us know how it worked out and maybe include some good basic instructions for us novices.
I have a 88 LS acura integra 170k :sick: , when I put on the high beams the headlights closed. So I pushed the button on the dash. (left hand side by steering column w// the headlight picture on it) opened the headlights and the high beams worked. Car is new to me and I dont have a manual so i was guessing. Well now i have a acura that has stuck headlights. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix? Plus water leaks from under the dash on the passenger side. I saw another post along these lines. But then lost it.
That button gets stuck really easily, especially once the car is this old. You have to get behind that button so that it will release the lights to go back down. That same thing happened to me with my '88.
It wouldn't be the worst thing in the world to leave them in the up position, of course. But that's what to do if you want the streamlined look of the front with the headlights down.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Hey guys this is for the 90-93 2D Leaking problem. I am 99.9% positive that I have effectively fixed the leaking problem. I started with the lead of the taillight gaskets needing to be replaced. I stopped when I found that all the local dealers wanted $33 per gasket!! So I took my old Taillights off and ripped the nasty 15yr old gaskets off and scrapped all the gasket residue off. I than lined it with "Sticky Caulk" which is omse black weatherproofing, play-doughish material. I than went the extra mile and lined the very top of the taillight (where the black plastic part almost meets the metal- I closed the gap). I still have moisture in the actual taillight but my trunk has stayed nice and try during the duration of our near emergency state flooding over here in the Bay Area. Just passing on the info.
So in short: if you like to waste money or your dealer actually sells the gaskets at areasonable price (below $20) than start there. I would still recommend getting the "sticky caulk" (stop giggling! :P ) just to close the gap on the top though. I'm interested in hearing your experiences if you have similar success or not!
I have that same problem with my 92 Acura Integra GS, does the water get to the backseat floor board? I have water that recent came thru the rear lights and started to smoke tonight.. What did you do to solve your leak? HOw did you figure out it was the seal? I too changed the cowl panel thinking it was it.
I replaced the rear lights with ones from Ebay, left a nice size gap. It rained tonight and water poured right in there and it started smoking..the new lens I believe are damaged from the smoke. I just came across this forum tonight after everything is said and done..My ride is pretty decked out..but I think it's time to let go (after putting my heart and soul into it). Thanks for the tip though.
Out of curiousity, what does one recommend when rebuilding or replacing a Non-Vtec B18 motor? I would like to gain more horses, etc...but dont know about any available options or where to start. I was thinking of maybe somehow finding a Vtec and rebuild that. If an 3.2 TL motor could fit I would luv that!!! Any suggestions? :confuse:
Ok, well I found leak to be where MMYK said it would be - upfront under the windshield cowl panel (Vent panel seals). The link he provided was great. I havent seal anything up yet. I'll wait for next week, I will check with the Acura dealer for the rubber seals and I may add some silicone to further seal it. :sick:
Well i did replace the clutch.....wasnt too bad...not something i would enjoy doing over an over..lol..it seems though that when the car runs for a period if time it will do the slippage thing again...turn it off let it cool..start it again no problem...bled the hyd fluid....cant adjust the clutch pedal etc..so what gives??
My '94 integra RS (174k miles) has started to run real cold. The temp gauge has always read low, but now it barely creeps above the "C". I am not a car guy, but I am guessing I need a thermostat - true? Or any other suggestions?
Hahah!! You're thinking just like I was about 2 years ago!! yes you can put a TL motor in your car but the cost to do such a project and the loss of your handling and reliability is at stake. You put a motor like that in our car and you've got be an engineer to make all the components work or know someone that can do it and either way it costs you too much time & money. I was talking to this guy (engineer) that put an S2000 motor in a 91 hatch like ours. He reinforced the rear axle (he had to switch to RWD) and when it was done he was smoking skylines off the line. He couldn't hang a turn for anything b/c he had so much weight on the front but it was an amazing drag car. I think he said he spent around $8-9,000 putting it together and he did all the work (i think he invested over 200 hours creating the beast). If you just want better speed/performance stick to a newer B-series engine (B18c or B18c1 or 5) or if you've got the money and a handy mechanic/engineer than put a K-series motor in there (RSX/TSX) you'll have to convert to 5-lug and expect to spend over $7,000 just on parts but you would have a one of a kind monster.
Word of advise: It can be done. A lot of people on these forums will shoot you down and tell you to just buy a new car or do an easier swap. I have a lot of respect for people that try new things though. When you think about it though... A 2003 K-series motor in our car might cost a total around $12,000-14,000 and 2-6months to complete but when you're done you spent less than a new RSX and it's a lot faster b/c it weighs less and you've got a car worthy of a lot more attention than a hopped up RSX. Keep dreaming big man. keep me posted.
Hello everyone! I bought my 2001 Integra SE in July '05 and absolutely love her. She is completely stock from factory aside from chrome Eurolite Alteeza tail lamps, and soon I am going to replace the amber bumber blinkers with clear ones. Currently I am looking into cosmetic changes before I get into the big-buck modifications under the hood, however that is a topic for another day so I'll just stay on target.
I'm going to shop around town for a good professional window tinter, however right now I'm a little stuck on the type of tint. I plan to get all windows tinted except the windshield (maybe, we'll see), however I already have tinted rear side windows as well as the hatchback. Currently it is a very deep purple tint, which I like, but I think I am looking for a change.
Anyway, to the details. :P My Integra is black, and the current tint looks great. I'm either getting a matched tint in the side windows, or I'll get the tint removed and completely change it all. I was thinking of maybe silver, as it would match my tail lamps, however I've looked on the internet for pictures of silver-tinted Integras and cannot find any results for comparisson.
Has anyone seen a black Integra with silver-tinted windows? Did it look alright, in your opinion? If anyone has any pictures they can link me to, that would be much appreciated. Either way, sorry for the semi-long post on such a mundane subject, however this is important to me and I thought this would be a good place for some feedback.
The tint on my rear window has been bubbling, so I asked to see if the shops that puts on the tinting can take it off. The ones I call have said No, the only way is to replace the whole glass..... Given what you said, how are you planning on removing the tint?
I've seen silver tints before in other cars. Any slight scratch on the tint will be real easy to notice...Also, I think some state law says you can only tint the top few inches of the front windshield.
Any pro. tint place can take off the old tint if it's not Mercedez (lt. blue) or some of the older toyotas (yellow), and others. Those mentioned are glass that have been treated... the big prob. w/ our cars (if it's a hatch) is that you really can't remove the hatch tint w/out losing the rear defogger. I currently have all windows tinted the same color and it looks really good.
No silver tint on black cars will make your car look about $1,000 cheaper and looks really nasty... same with those black/silver blends. If you wanna have a little more shine use the "high performance" tint like I did. It's got a reflective quality to it and it's much stronger and comes out better than regular tint.
For gosh sakes though... lose the Altezza's!!! And whats up with the clear lenses!?!?!? :confuse:
I thought about the tint today while at work, and I do not think I am going with the silver anymore. The deep purple looks really good, so why ruin a good thing, right? Anyway, I've decided I will get my side windows tinted with the same colour, and I might get a strip along the top of my windshield. Still unsure of that one right now, though.
I've also done some looking around and I've decided to get some halo headlights as well. Hopefully I can find some with a blue LED halo, as I think that will look best with my car.
I'll post a few pictures of my car and what it looks like now tomorrow, and hopefully I'll be getting the tint done tomorrow as well so I'll have some after shots too.
As for the Eurolites, I love them. I think it really looks good on a black Integra, but I may be in the minority with that one. Still really hoping to get the clear bumper blinkers though.
What all should i get for my car i want to add horsepower and i want it to look good? also when i bought it it was shaking when i would stop the car and it has gotten way worse i dont know whats wrong with the car if so could ya let me know.
I bought my 1997 Integra in July. I had to replace the battery and with that my radio/cd player (stock) was disconected. I need the error code to hook it back up. The code should be in my owners manual but sadly, I never got one. I've been told the only way to find the code is to either take out the deck and find the reference code on the back and from there call it into Acura and obtain the code that way OR apparently you can look under the hood fuse box lid...and it's suppoused to be there. (It's not.) I eventually plan on putting a system into my Teg but not for a while, I want to have some body work done first. My question is, is taking the deck out the only way to get the code? And if so, I've heard horror stories about taking the cd player out...true or false...?
you can go to the dealership, prove you own the car, and they will look it up for you, as long as it is the original stereo installed in the car. I can't imagine they would charge you to do that, although I wouldn't say it was impossible either.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My OEM radio unit turns on fine, but after a few seconds, there would be no sound (or sometimes, no sound at all after turning on the radio).
I tried to play a cassette, and the same thing happens, so it isn't just the radio. I want to take the unit out to see if the plug in the back is loose. Or to just change to a new unit altogether. Does anyone know how to take the radio out? Do I have to remove all the front panel cover?
It is time to part with my loyal 94 LS Integra which has never stranded me except for flats. I need a slightly larger car, probably a wagon, to haul my toddler in. But everytime I try a new car it is never as nice as my Integra. I am looking for a similar ride and decent mileage as well as some luxury. I also want a reliable vehicle and don't want a big SUV. I know I can't get the same ride in a wagon, but I would like something close. Any suggestions? I did like the new Maxda 5 crossover but it does not have enough upgrades.
I would check out the new Mazda3 hatchback, unless it would just be too small for your current needs. It will seat two adults comfortably in the back, or two child seats if need be. It has better handling than the Integra, it will be a little faster than your '94, fairly easy (high 20s combined mpg) on gas, and a decent list of upgrade features. It is a lot of fun, and I almost bought one (bought an RSX instead) when I replaced my old Integra.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My 94 Integra is now at 80K. It's been 30K since the last transmission fluid change. Wondering what is the avg price for this at local shops and at the dealership?
Is a 'flush' necessary, or should it be just a drain & fill.
If you're car shakes every time you brake my guess is your rotors are done. You can try to resurface them if they're not too eaten up... otherwise you should just upgrade/replace them.
If your car is a manual and you dont want to be constantly resurfacing your rotos I recommend NOT braking in neutral. Yes, you heard me . Just leave your car in gear when you're braking and than don't pop the clutch in until you're about to stall out. I'v had so many friends that dont know how to drive and refuse to take my advice and suffer a similar fate as your shaking car.
Thanks, bdog for the suggestion. I'll give it a look. I guess I am a little concerned about staying small b/c of the saftey factor, but not so concerned that I want a big gas guzzler. I feel that the handling of my Integra & especially its fast braking has saved me from several accidents.
The only thing I dint do was have the flywheel machined..looked good..Im thinking now Im taking it all apart again....and have the flywheel resurfaced....It seems to be 'slipping' more freqeuntly....damn it...
Hi all. Can someone please help? I have a 98 Integra GS-R, and it has run excellent without problems and I do the routine maintenance work on it. The other day, I was driving on the freeway about 70-80mph, when the car just shut down completely. The tach and speedometer just went down and the car shut down, basically leaving me crusing in neutral as you would if you just let the parking brake off while parked and cruised in neutral down a hill. When the car shut down, the radio stayed operational, but NONE of the lights on the dash came on. I tried to start the car three times to no avail. Each time, the car cranked very well, but would not ignite. After waiting a minute, the car finally started and I drove off and haven't had the problem since. Soon after, I had the battery and alternator checked, and those both checked out very good. I asked around and was told possibly the fuel relay, distributor or ignition coil. Does anyone have any idea what could have happened? Or yet, can anyone speak from experience? Thanks for reading and thanks for your help!
No, it shakes when the car is stopped, like at a red light or something. it has been shaking even worse and it hasnt been runing right lately have any cluse on what it could be? Also when it gets cold out the keys get stuck in the ignition of the car do you know what that could be from?
Comments
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Apexi makes 2 exhausts: the N1 and WS. The WS is more quiet and designed for the street. It will still be louder than your stock exhaust. They all are. I hear people like the WS because it's not too noisy. I heard one on a '95 Integra (GSR) last summer while at an auto-x event and it didn't sound bad at all. It's a 2.25" exhaust which is what you want. There 's usually no problems with smog inspection with 2.25" aftermarket exhausts.
Don't go with 2.5" piping (not that many around anyway). They will be loud (I have one) and cost more. That's the price some of us pay for a little more power.
Another thing to watch out for is when you replace the Catalytic Converter (aka CAT) with 3d party free-flow CATs or a straight/test pipe, then you will run into problems with passing inspection.
You 're pretty safe with a 2.25" exhaust though. I don't know of anyone failing inspection because of an exhaust. It's just a piece of piping with a muffler. Mufflers don't filter pollutants. They only "muffle" the noise.
You also have to be careful with aftermarket headers. If you decide to get a header (I highly recommend it - I got almost 6hp more at the wheels with my old DC Sports 4-2-1 ceramic header), make sure it's CARB approved which means the manufacturer has made sure there won't be any problems with emissions. They are meant to replace your stock header without comprimising the emissions of your vehicle. I have a non-CARB race header (it's says for racing purposes only on it) but my county doesn't have emissions/smog inspection, only safety inspection. I think I may be in trouble in '06 though, because I hear new laws will not allow straight pipes in place of a CAT. Last year they made Cold Air Intakes illegal which is the most stupid thing I have ever heard. I had to put on a short RAM (warm) air intake that I borrowed from someone so I can pass inspection. What are they going to think of next? Aftermarket performance brake pads will be illegal? This is in NY btw. It's a NY State law, no CAI's. Makes me so mad. I 'll have to take it off again in a month and probably my resonated test pipe too.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Sorry
I don't know much about cars, can someone tell me what the canister actually do and how bad is it to let me car run with the tubing disconnected from it. The car seems to run normally now. However, there is a new rattle noise that occurs when I step on the gas at ~ 30 mph. Wonder if this new noise is related to the disconnected fuel cannister.
In the meantime, however, it is not causing damage to anything else to leave it broken like that.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Then the new rattle noise is probably a different issue altogther ... Although it may still be caused by the AAA tech banging inside my hood with his stick.
Here is more details about the rattle:
Only happens after car is warmed up (after 10 min driving) when I step on the gas at <25 mph. No rattle if I'm driving faster (say 40 mph +) Sound seems to be from the front.
Thanks in advance for anyone helping me diagnose the problem.
I'm wondering if this is good enough for the annual inspection (I live in MA but I guess the inspection criteria is similar to CA).
Can't tell right offhand what that other noise might be.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I did a search and found a link on how to fix it before (I can't find the link now, but I must have done a search in google.)
From what I remember reading, it's an old washer that needs to be replaced under the windshield. It involves removing the wipers and taking out the cover under the windshield. The job sounds a bit too complicated for me who knows nada about mechanics. So unless it gets real bad, I plan on just to leave it. At least I know it isn't a major problem.
If anyone has tried to fix it, please let us know how it worked out and maybe include some good basic instructions for us novices.
http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/interior/15.html
Well now i have a acura that has stuck headlights.
Anyone got any ideas on how to fix?
Plus water leaks from under the dash on the passenger side. I saw another post along these lines. But then lost it.
It wouldn't be the worst thing in the world to leave them in the up position, of course. But that's what to do if you want the streamlined look of the front with the headlights down.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
So in short: if you like to waste money or your dealer actually sells the gaskets at areasonable price (below $20) than start there. I would still recommend getting the "sticky caulk" (stop giggling! :P ) just to close the gap on the top though. I'm interested in hearing your experiences if you have similar success or not!
Mobileprojects
Mobileprojects
I'd love to fix it too, although not until spring since it is frigid here in the NE.
It has a newer (2.5 year old) radiator
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Word of advise: It can be done. A lot of people on these forums will shoot you down and tell you to just buy a new car or do an easier swap. I have a lot of respect for people that try new things though. When you think about it though... A 2003 K-series motor in our car might cost a total around $12,000-14,000 and 2-6months to complete but when you're done you spent less than a new RSX and it's a lot faster b/c it weighs less and you've got a car worthy of a lot more attention than a hopped up RSX. Keep dreaming big man. keep me posted.
--apjohnson
I'm going to shop around town for a good professional window tinter, however right now I'm a little stuck on the type of tint. I plan to get all windows tinted except the windshield (maybe, we'll see), however I already have tinted rear side windows as well as the hatchback. Currently it is a very deep purple tint, which I like, but I think I am looking for a change.
Anyway, to the details. :P My Integra is black, and the current tint looks great. I'm either getting a matched tint in the side windows, or I'll get the tint removed and completely change it all. I was thinking of maybe silver, as it would match my tail lamps, however I've looked on the internet for pictures of silver-tinted Integras and cannot find any results for comparisson.
Has anyone seen a black Integra with silver-tinted windows? Did it look alright, in your opinion? If anyone has any pictures they can link me to, that would be much appreciated. Either way, sorry for the semi-long post on such a mundane subject, however this is important to me and I thought this would be a good place for some feedback.
I've seen silver tints before in other cars. Any slight scratch on the tint will be real easy to notice...Also, I think some state law says you can only tint the top few inches of the front windshield.
No silver tint on black cars will make your car look about $1,000 cheaper and looks really nasty... same with those black/silver blends. If you wanna have a little more shine use the "high performance" tint like I did. It's got a reflective quality to it and it's much stronger and comes out better than regular tint.
For gosh sakes though... lose the Altezza's!!! And whats up with the clear lenses!?!?!? :confuse:
I've also done some looking around and I've decided to get some halo headlights as well. Hopefully I can find some with a blue LED halo, as I think that will look best with my car.
I'll post a few pictures of my car and what it looks like now tomorrow, and hopefully I'll be getting the tint done tomorrow as well so I'll have some after shots too.
As for the Eurolites, I love them. I think it really looks good on a black Integra, but I may be in the minority with that one. Still really hoping to get the clear bumper blinkers though.
Thanks for your feedback guys!
:confuse:
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I tried to play a cassette, and the same thing happens, so it isn't just the radio. I want to take the unit out to see if the plug in the back is loose. Or to just change to a new unit altogether. Does anyone know how to take the radio out? Do I have to remove all the front panel cover?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Is a 'flush' necessary, or should it be just a drain & fill.
If your car is a manual and you dont want to be constantly resurfacing your rotos I recommend NOT braking in neutral. Yes, you heard me . Just leave your car in gear when you're braking and than don't pop the clutch in until you're about to stall out. I'v had so many friends that dont know how to drive and refuse to take my advice and suffer a similar fate as your shaking car.