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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • I can't find my mfr's warranty for my 1990 Integra. If anyone still has a copy of the warranty, I'd be most grateful if you could look up whether there's a lifetime warranty for seatbelts. My passive restraint on the driver's side stopped working.

    Many thanks.

  • Didn't know about the sticker in the glovebox...moot point anyway. I called the dealer because the code card that I have didn't work...they changed the radio for me back in 1998! And the new card was in my service records...which got stolen a few months ago (car broken into, that's all they took). But they had a new code for me.

    I got the timing belt done at around 60K miles, I suppose a Honda dealer could do it, but I don't like my local Honda dealer so I still go back to Acura.

    Couldn't tell you about the warranty, but if it's supposed to be lifetime, you should be able to call a dealer and confirm this.
  • Hi people. I've not been to this board before and don't own an Integra, but I am hoping you will be able to help me help a friend who is seeking my advice.

    The car at issue is a 1995 Integra RS with 110,000 miles. My friend is a salesman and spends a lot of time in the car, though it is all local driving.

    Recently the ABS warning light has been on. He took it in for service and was told that the "modulator" and "accumulator" needed to be replaced, a $1600 investment. They were pretty vague about the safety if the repairs weren't made, but didn't say outright it was unsafe. It's a lot of money for a car that probably isn't worth 3 times that!

    I guess the question is whether he just ignores it, unloads the car now, without repairs, or fixes it and hopes to get another couple of years out of the vehicle. Any advice?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    it does not affect the regular operation of the braking system. So the question is, how much does your friend care about ABS? I kinda doubt I would fix it, I would just keep the car and drive it. But make sure that if the car is sold, the buyer is aware the ABS is non-functional (ie don't disconnect the light!). :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    After two years of uncertainty, my wife has decided to keep her '97 Integra GS coupe with 31K miles. It's her "weekend" car now since she drives her 325Ci the rest of the time. She wanted to keep the Integra in the family, but none of our kids need a car (son just bought a Corvette).

    So, I am back to spending a modest amount to improve its performance, particularly handling. Previous advice from himiler and only1harry was to install a Comptech rear brace and larger sway bar. Is that still the advice? How much handling improvement will I see? I did replace the orginal Michelins with Dunlop SP 5000, and the handling improved a lot. Still, I can notice the understeer.

    How much will a new exhaust header and exhaust system help the engine? I see that Comptech sells both, but I am wondering if anyone has other recommendations.
  • I would put on an AEM CAI and the stiffer rear sway bar. Mine is stock except for Kumho tires and the AEM CAI and it is plenty fast for me.
     Upgrading the exhaust header is pretty worthless except at WOT, but it looks good and you obviously have the money. You could go for a full catback exhaust, also.
  • Hey all

    I am looking to buy a 90 Acura Integra 4 dr sedan. It has 124K miles on it,auto, p/w,p/l,no leaks.
    I was wondering if you knew of any potential problems that this particular model might have or pose in the future?
    The owner says that the car is a-ok with no problems.

    appreciate any input...
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    look for flaking in the paint clear coat and check the area under the trunk where the spare tire sits for standing water or signs there has been water running in in the past. Check the taillights to make sure there is not water sitting inside.

    Also, the timing belt, with plugs and valve adjustment was just due at 120K - was any of it done? If not, has it been done in the last 30K?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • First off, thanks to the host for reposting my message in the right forum - I get lost in this cyber maze!

    And thanks also to nippononly for the advice. The timing belt was replaced at 90Kmiles. Do you (or anyone else?) still think thats ok or does the car need a 120K service? What else apart from the timing belt/plugs/valve adjstment are due at this stage?

    again, thank for the input.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    is fine, then. Besides those other items, you would normally flush the coolant every 30K and replace the air filter, but both are cheap so no worries. Oh yeah, and replace distributor cap and rotor along with the plugs if you do them. If it is running well, though, you can put the tune-up parts off until the next smog check or whatever.

    The paint and rear leak issues are much more important than that, and if it is sound in both areas, you have a great deal on your hands!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • ok so now I have another question....excuse the level of my limited knowledge since I am new to Acuras (they don't have em back home!)

    someone mentioned that I should find out whether the 90 Integra LS I'm looking at has passed a vehicle emissions inspection and that cars that old rarely do. Is that true even for the 90 Acuras?

    some more updates...the car I saw has some axle noise from the front right...and the rear window doesn't work. I havent had the chance to get it inspected yet - are these expensive repairs? Should I even get myself into this? I am jst scared that I might end up with a car and have to do a lot with it before its driveable!
    But I liked it nonetheless!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    so what are you going to do about that window? If it stays up and keeps the rain out, I would leave it. I am sure it would be relatively expensive to fix, yes. If by "axle noise" you mean clicking like bad CVs, that will be about $300 at a shop for a new axle installed (or $500 at the Acura dealer). Beyond that, it gets a little hard to diagnose over the airwaves.

    Hondas and Acuras run very clean in general - my '88 always passed smog even with the tune-up overdue, and 200K+ on the clock. But also bear in mind that passing the smog check may be the seller's responsibility - it certainly is here in California. So you shouldn't have to worry about it.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • I have a 97 GSR with 135K miles.

    I had the radiator go at 120K. I get about 50K for clutches, and 24K for rotors. Overall very disappointing reliability compared to my 153K mile 93 Civic, and my 168K mile 93 Rodeo.

    Is the rattling from the transmission? I had a carrier bearing problem $$$$ and the transmission had to be disassembled and some of the parts had to be replaced.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    to hear about all those problems with your car. :-(

    Where does the rattle sound like it is coming from? You may want to post on the Maintenance and Repair board.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • flsparrowflsparrow Posts: 2
    Help, I am about to purchase a '99 Acura Integra LS. It is in excellent condition with only 38,000 miles; one owner. Any info. will be helpful in making my decision. Asking price $10,000. Is this too high? Car recently had its 35,000 mile check-up at dealer.
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    You might want to check used car pricing here at Just click on the "Used Cars" tab and navigate your way to the price estimator. If the car you mention would be rated as "clean", my first impression is that the $10K asking price is in the ballpark.

    My wife still loves her '97 GS coupe.
  • flsparrowflsparrow Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I checked at the Edmunds site and yes, $10,000 is in the ballpark. The '99 that I am looking at is very clean and has been maintained. Thanks for your help.
  • jkunyajkunya Posts: 3
    Hi. I'm looking at a 1987 Acura Integra as a possible first car for my 15.5 year old son. The car has 110k miles on it and has a new exhaust system. I've been told it has a new timing belt also. The interior is in excellent condition with everything working (COLD A/C) except the radio speakers seem bad and the rear wiper doesn't work. It's an automatic, 1.6L 4 cyl, with sunroof, cruise, AM/FM cassette & equalizer and that's about it (no power windows, doors, or mirrors). The body is in very good condition, but it does look like it has had some body filler and paint added around the rear wheel wells; otherwise no rust or dings. Runs & drive very well!

    I know there are many factors in determining a price, but given the above and it being a Acura Integra what is a decent price for a car like this?

    Is there anything I should watch out for in this car (due to its' age or history)? I'm a little leary because it doesn't have ABS brakes or airbags which I'd like to have for my son.

    Thank you,
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    engines on these things are rock solid - my '88 ran 255K before I sold it.

    That said, the little things do add up. The rear wiper on mine was inoperative too - rear end electrical gremlins on these cars are very common. You should make sure all the rear lights work, including the third brake light.

    The radio speaker problem is also very common - this one can be rectified if need be for $50/pair or so.

    Old Honda automatics - you need to be careful. Does it shift promptly into every gear, and is there any hesitation to change gears while driving, even when stone cold? You want the answers to these two questions to be yes and no, in that order. Check the color of the fluid too - nothing burnt or dark.

    With all that said, if it is in excellent condition it would be worth around $2000 in my area, but in your case I would knock that down several hundred for body filler and the like. Make sure that t-belt was truly replaced!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • jkunyajkunya Posts: 3

    Thanks for the information. It's very helpful and insightful.

  • I am looking to buy a 1991 Acura Integra GS 2 dr. for $2250 w/ 187,000 miles. I am a college student and will be taking the car to school. Is this worth it? The owner has kept track of all maintenance since he's owned it (got it at 62,000 mi) and it looks like he's kept up on it. Routine oil changes and the such. Here are the major repairs that have been done since 62,000 when he got it...front and rear brake pads at around 80-90k, brake master cylinder replaced at 105k, timing belt replaced twice last change at 168k, water pump replaced at 112k, both outer CV boots replaced around 140k, radiator at 155k, distributor at 168k, alternator at 180k, and new exhaust system at 184k. what do you think?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    welllll, it's a fun car!

    condition of: leather seats? body and paint? look at the bottom of the engine for signs of oil leaks. open the hatch and pull up the carpet to look for signs of water coming in - a major hassle to deal with that might make you less happy come rainy season.

    if all of that gives you the right answers, it might be worth $2250 where I live (CA). manual or automatic?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • haven't gone to see it but i was told it has cloth seats with only problem being a small tear in the driver's seat...nothing major. as for the body on the records it says left quarter panel was repaired and entire car was repainted at Maaco at 167k, as for oil leaks the oil pan, oil pan gasket, and drain plug were replaced at 117k so that sounds like it would help with any leaks. its a manual. records dont list a cluth replacement (past 62k).
  • im in NC...also, other than not having leather the car is fully loaded, power windows, power door locks, power moonroof, etc.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    being a GS, I assumed it was loaded, except for the leather in '91.

    Distributor leaks are common, but your distributor was replaced, so that would cure that. Depending on driving style of the previous owner, the clutch may be worn - that will be obvious when you drive it.

    Be aware that a Maaco paint job isn't going to last very long. The engine and the trans on these cars are extremly durable, so that is a point in its favor. It sounds like it might be overdue for a tune-up, and I would be curious what its compression numbers are - do you have smog check in that state?

    Anyway, that is a huge work-up for a $2000 car. Check for the engine and hatch leaks, stop it and start it up a couple of times, and then go on faith if you enjoy the drive! :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • pkcheng55pkcheng55 Posts: 2
    We're trying to sell our 2001 Acura Integra LS coupe with Auto. It's light blue and has only 17,500 miles. Very clean, non-Smoker car and it is in very good shape except for a few of dings and a little scratch in back bumper. I’m in San Francisco, California 94112.

    We never buy or sell a car in private party before. Is $13900 asking price too much?
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    Scroll back to the top of this page and click on the "used car" tab. Then follow the instructions to get Edmunds pricing on your car. Good luck on making a quick sale.
  • algae1algae1 Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    I'm a newbie to this forum. My daughter is looking at buying her first car which is a '92 Integra. It has 174,000 Km (108,000 miles) on it and is in good shape inside and out.
    I have been a Nissan owner for the past 10 years and am wondering if the timing belt is as much of an issue with the Integra as it is for the Nissans? Also what are the known issues I should look for with this car?
    Thanks very much for any advice.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    t-belt is very important on these cars - it is an interference engine (instant self-destructo if it breaks while driving) - make sure it has been done and if there is doubt, do it.

    Electrical accessories at the rear end are an issue, as is water coming in around the hatch door or through the taillights. Pull out the spare tire and check for evidence (staining etc) of standing water in the well it sits in. Make sure all the rear lights work as well as the wiper. Check all the HVAC controls up front as well. Make sure the buttons are working to shift the airflow between the dash, the floor, and the windshield.

    Beyond that, nothing major. Make sure to check for bad CV joints at the front (crank the wheel all the way over in a parking lot and accelerate slowly while listening closely to the front for the sound of pebbles rattling in a can; then repeat with the wheel cranked all the way the other way). Worn spark plug wires and old distributor caps have a significant impact on the way these cars drive - eyeball those.

    Plus, of course, all the usual stuff you check out on any used car.

    Good luck! Manual or automatic?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Help looking at a Integra LS with 35500 miles 13,500 or Brand new Honda Civic VP for 12750. Can't decide what to get... go new and get that new car smell or go used with all the toys but no leather. Thanks
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