Had my Type S in for Service and I rented a Mazda 3, regular gas. After driving the Mazda for 3 days,it has zoom zoom ,but my RSX Type S gets way better gas mileage and I use premium. It's really a wash,except for the high end torque,Type S has way more zoom zoom. I live in Maine, so I drive to NH for service.They wanted to keep car as my driver's side seat, after 20k cracked.They wanted to replace it. The Mazda cornered well and was very responsive,but not the same build quality of an Accura.The Mazda's ride was stiff,but more comfortable than my car. In order to get heated seats you have to buy your RSX S in Canada. The Mazda 2.3 comes with leather and with heated seats, I wonder how M.P.G. you get though. I don't know,if I was to buy again,I'd get a base RSX 160 H.P. 5 spd.I wish they still made the Integra.
You own a 94 Integra yet a 06 Mazda 5 does not have enough upgrades for you? What sort of upgrades did you have in mind?
I've had my Mazda 5 for about 2 months now and also own a 90 Integra GS. I purchased my Integra brand new and have proudly owned it ever since.
The Mazda 5 is about the same length as my Integra, narrower then my Integra, yet through enhancements in design and engineering is so much roomier inside. The Mazda 5 really handles like a car, the brakes are strong, the engine is really responsive, overall performance is very good. However, what you gain in performance you lose in mileage. The 5 seems a bit on the thirsty side even though I havent been driving it hard. With that said I would still recommend the Mazda 5 to anyone. The 5 has to be one of the best values out there, you get alot for what you pay.
One thing that alot of people forget to mention about the early 90's Integra's is how good they were on gas. They are cheap to run.
By the way there is one thing in common between your Integra and the Mazda 5, they are both built in Japan.
i have a 1991 acura intergra with a b16a2 dohc vetec and i was woundering if i could put a trans out of a 1991 acura intergra b182 with dohc non vetec. Will they match up.
could be a vacuum leak or something to do with the fuel/air delivery (clogged injectors, relay, etc.). Idle problems have a huge range of possibilites. It could even be your TPS sensor.
I'm new in the Acura Integra scene :confuse: . So far what I've found out is that 1995 Acura Integra LS has B18B1 motor in it. Is that correct? Can I see the engine codes anywhere on the motor itself? Is it easy to put mods on this engine to bring output to about 180-210 horses?
Yes... trust me on this one... the easiest and most cost effective way to land 180-210HP is a T3 turbo. The other mistake that most ppl make is slowly building up the car w/ little mods here and there (intake, headers, exhaust, etc.) and they end up w/ maybe 20-40 more HP but they've already spent close to $1,000 - just spend a little more the first time around and u will get in that HP range.
And when I saw a Type-S RSX hit my lot, I had to test drive it!
The engine was incredible! Plenty of torque, and smooth as Cool Whip! Acts like a V6.
Nice dash, and robust structure.
But the shifter was too far forward, and the throws were longer. The looks are chunky, not as slick as my Silver Bullet! Seats were a compromise, built for a wider driver, not as bolstered as mine.
Plenty of slop in the brakes, which some like, but feels far less diect and involved than my Integra. Softer ride, and relaxed control responses say "Camry", not "sporty coupe".
The RSX maybe a better car, but is not a "driver's car" anymore. Fast, but seems more soft than sharp.
I have a 91 integra. I drove to work with no problem one day. When I tried to leave work the car wouldnt start. It was cranking over but just wouldnt catch. I have checked everything that I can think of. I have changed the distibutor cap, i made sure that I was getting gas to the injectors, I made sure that I was getting spark, and I have checked all the fuses. I dont know anything else to check. Can someone help me out with this. I need to get this car on the road.
have u tried fuel pump/ fuel pump relay? did u do the dizzy cap AND ROTOR or just cap? Starter dead? do u have power? alternator? does the outside temp. have any role in start/ no start?
I just purchased a 99 Integra LS with 57k miles. The car is running fine - so far so good. However, they couldn't find the manual in the dealership and I'm wondering what the manufacturer recommendations are for fuel grade, oil change mileage, oil grade, etc?!? Also, my remote starter has an "OPTION" button on it, does anyone know what that is used for or whether it can be programmed to do something and how? I appreciate your feedback. Thanks!
I have intermittent ignition problems on a 1992 Acura Integra with an AT and 130,000 miles on the odometer. Between the speedometer and the tachometer, there is a vertical display that indicates which gear the vehicle is in. The problem: when the gear selector is in the “Park” position and the key is turned to the start position, occasionally, the “S3” flashes on and off every second. Every time this happens, the engine will turn over but will never start
Sometimes, you can successfully start the car a few minutes later, but other times, the car has to sit overnight before cranking. The problem is not predictable.
When the “P” is lit and the “S3” is not, the engine always starts.
I'm thinking about getting rid of my gas hog truck and buying a '99 integra 5spd LS with 85k on it. The only problem with it is the title, it's a salvage. I havent gone out to drive it yet because i dont know if i should waste my time driving three hours if it's not worth it. the guy says it drives and runs great but i dont know about salvage titles.. it's fairly cheap and i need a car with good gas milage to goto college in - but i also don't want a piece.. should i risk the salvage title or stay away from it? thanks
I've been all over the forum here scoping out other cars and then realized that this is the place for me to be. I have a 1991 Integra that I have owned since I bought it new in Nov. 1991. I LOVE THIS LITTLE CAR! Honestly I wasn't in love with it when I bought it but I did my research and felt this was the best car/value at the time for a car in this class. I have never looked back as it is the best vehicle i have ever owned! I have 220,000+ miles on this puppy and it's still ROLLING! I'm trying to plan for the future as far as deciding on what the next car will be but I want to know how others are doing with vehicles this age. Can I expect to ROLL up to 300,000 miles?? The family is beginning to get on my case about my needing a newer, more reliable car but I say MY car has been very reliable all of these years so why fix it if it is not broken? Besides, what on earth would I buy that would serve me as well for the next 15 years: fun to drive, economical, great gas mileage, etc.? I can't imagine what will come close. Any suggestions, comments out there?
You're absolutely right. My friend has a 91 that has 300,000+ on his ride. Its all about how often u change the oil and how much u maintain/service/abuse ur car.
looking to put a deposit on a 95 Integra SE, it will be my daughter's first car. it has 92k miles, automatic, no accidents / repaint, clean title. timing belt, water pump, 3 acc. belts, and tensioner will need to be replaced ($600.00). or i can buy the parts online ($168.00) probably will have a family friend (honda tech.) perform the work. please help with my questions please: 1) can't find anywhere on the forum if it uses regular unleaded (87 octane) 2) asking price is $3500, hoping to get it for $3000, is that a "fair" price" 3) what other service items should i get done?
I'm not sure about the 95 but my '91 doesn't perform well on 87 octane. I use mid-grade most of the time and that works well. It probably depends on the previous owner though. If they always ran regular then you'll probably be all right with that. The manual says that 87 is okay. Good luck with it!
I've had a 94 integra (2 door, 4 cyl), 135,000. My main concern is things that will cause the car to die or not start. Had to replace the starting relay last summer, and just yesterday my coil and ignitor died and the car died on the road. (had to do wheel bearings and other stuff too)
From everyone's experience, what else should I check out to prevent future dying on the road problems?
My car has been not starting on the first try lately and I'm getting worried. When I turn the key, there's no sound, click, or anything. When this happens, I usually turn the key another 2 to 3 times... Once it starts, it catches immediately and everything is fine.
The same thing has happened in the past and it turned out to be an insecure battery cable. This time, however, the battery cables are very tight.
Wondering if this is a sign for a new starter, relay, etc.... Please advice. Also, what's the cost to fix this?
Whoa. I feel like I'm in the Twilight Zone right now. Back when I bought my RSX, I was coming out of a much older Integra, and I test drove three cars the day I bought - a base RSX, the type-S (both new), and an '01 LS with a lot less years and miles at that point than I am guessing your car has now.
My impressions were the exact OPPOSITE of yours, except for one: the new car makes the road feel more remote from the driver than the old one did. This is on purpose, I am sure, on Honda's part. They were trying to "mature" the car, and as a result the driving experience is less raw. This is something which I dislike, just as you do.
But OMG! The "Camry" of sport coupes? Long shifter throws? Wider seats with less bolstering? Softer ride? No way. Driving the new models made the glaring ergonomic flaws and sloppy ride of the '01 very noticeable. In the end it was no contest at all.
In the end, the only question for me was type-S vs base, and the higher fuel economy and availability of cloth seats on the base model steered me that way. At the time, the handling difference between base and 'S' was negligible, and I wasn't one to be in the higher-lift part of the powerband of the 'S' all the time, so I went with the base model.
Integras are very impressive though. They last forever. I still see my old '88 LS running around with its new owner, and it would be well over 250K by now. He commutes to work in it, even at its age, and I am sure it gives him no trouble - never gave me any.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
That sounds like either a bad starter solenoid or defective safety starter switch. Both are relatively cheap to fix, so stop worrying and take it to the shop for diagnosis next time it is doing the problem. You could do both repairs yourself without a lot of trouble, or either would be a three-digit price (well under $500) at a shop (not the Acura dealer, which will charge you more).
You may have to wait until it is doing it most of the time before you can get a proper diagnosis, however.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks a lot!! It's a relief to hear that it won't be too expensive. You're right that I should wait...chances are it'll start perfectly when I go to the shop. Plus, the problem is less frequent now than a few months ago. I'm thinking it's weather related since it's now much warmer here in the NE.
My Integra just failed CA smog test in the NOX(PPM) . The first test failed at 25mph. My mechanic changed the converter on it, told me to drive about half an hour then have the car test again. The number got worse, and the car failed both 15mph and 25 mph tests. Since the new converter should at least improve the test, my mechanic wants to change the converter again. He also mentioned there maybe an issue with the EGP(?), he says this is a known problem with Integra and there is a toolkit issued by Honda to fix just this problem. :sick:
Could you please shed some light on this problem?
My Integra also has a problem that from driving a little while(usually after 30 minutes but can be few minutes), the engine light went on. Is this a known problem? what needs to be done here? :confuse:
OMG! What needs to be done? Start by dumping your mechanic! If you are getting a check engine light, the first thing he/she should have done is check what triggered the light! Slapping on a new converter is a heck of an expensive way to diagnose a smog problem!
This guy wouldn't be getting my money - take it to a shop that knows how to diagnose smog problems. I have also never heard of a special "Honda toolkit" for '92 Integras to pass smog tests, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Need some advice as you both mentioned steering and road feel..... I own a 90 Integra and recently bought 06 Civic but am not satisfied with the steering in the new car. I knew there would be an adjustment, but I am totally disconnected to the road in the civic. Dealer service admits overboosting with power steering this year as I had to bring it in because I was convinced it was out of alignment due to its pulling and tracking issues. Says the steering is just so sensitive that it will feel like its pulling with road crown and will feel jittery at highway speeds. Great. Made to feel that way....I am not sure I want to live with this.....I practically need valium after driving the car. LOL. BTW, I of course test drove, but I thought sensitivity would get better as I got used to it and it hasn't.
I still have my 90 and it's under a 100k. I am so discouraged at this point I may just keep it and sell the Civic outright as it's a hot car and with gas prices they can't keep it on the lots. Since I am so satified with the steering "feel" and the road feedback I am getting from Acura(and NONE of the new cars have that anymore) can you tell me at what point there was a big steering change with these Integra's/RSX? I want the connected to the road feel.
Sounds like I won't like the RSX either at least the new ones. What about the 02/03 RSX? Also is there a big dfference in steering between a 90 and a 2001 Integra? Any advice from anyone that would point me in the direction of a better car for me is greatly appreciated as I am far away from an Acura dealership and would like to get some tips so I have an idea what to test drive. Thanks
You won't notice any difference between the '90 and the '01 in steering feel, except the car will feel more planted, and depending on which trim you have the '01 will almost certainly be using wider tires.
With the RSX, Honda went for this Integra-all-grown-up feel. While the RSX's limits are higher than the old Integras, there is also less road feel, although compared to the Civic, forget it. For one thing, the RSX still uses hydraulic P/S, while the new Civic uses the crappy electric.
AFAIK there is no difference between the steering on the 02/03 RSX vs the brand new one now. All they changed for '05 was giving the type-S bigger sway bars and rims, and both trims a bit more sound-proofing. If you are just considering the base model, the '06 is virtually identical (except for the visual tweaks) to the 02/03.
Lastly, as you are probably aware, the odds are very good that your '90 with that few miles will go on chugging for quite some years yet, as long as you took good care of it along the way. Maybe just sell the Civic and keep driving it?
The only new car now that has as much road feel as the Integras of old (that doesn't cost an arm and a leg) is the Mini. And you know how hard it is getting your hands on one of those...
Of course, I haven't driven a Miata or a Solstice, both of which probably have very good road feel and handling. If tops-off is your sort of thing, of course...
This is what I do in cars with electric power steering.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks so much - you answered all of my questions perfectly. So glad to find someone who knows what I am talking about, so few understand road feel/steering feedback issues and know the Integra.
I won't get my hopes up too much about the RSX although it may be worth trying. I may be able to find an 01 Integra with low miles as that won't be any radical change at least. I can deal with suspension changes more than steering (I wish I knew this before hand) Ultimately I will have to decide myself but this is very hard if I buy an Acura as I have to drive 2 hours to a dealership and I will be test driving on unfamiliar roads in a metropolitan area and I live in a rural one (lots of curvy roads).
I ruled out a new RSX as I wouldn't be able to utilize a new car warranty due to distance, but an 02 will be out of warranty anyway so it won't matter. The Acura dealer is very high volume and has 3 RSX's under 25K miles. One only has 14K. Also helpful, my next door neighbor is a mechanic and has no problem working on my 90 Integra.
Which brings me to the next thing. My neighbor certainly has never worked on my engine......I bought it 5 years old at 27K and it has 93K miles now. I am not bragging when I say what a good car it's been. 16 years old and has started first time every day. Only broke down once, I belive it was a distributor part. Oil changed regularly and I put timing belt on at 90K. Getting some rust though and you know what a cancer that is.
Do they MAKE cars like this anymore? LOL I am leaning toward keeping it. It truly has more drivability than my new Civic. Of course this is just my opinion, but aside from steering there is the new Drive By Wire technology that holds the throttle after you've released it and the RPM's stay up for a second before releasing with a noticable jerk. This makes stop and go driving a pain and dealer service and Honda say it's "normal"..... My 16 year old car is smoother to drive.
Maybe you can give me an idea of the mechanical reliability of the RSX since you own one.
It has been quite a personal turmoil I have been through to have a beatiful new car in my driveway that I am having so much difficulty driving, so thanks for listening. When I looked for steering help (many on the Edmonds Civic Coupe boards having similar issues with their new Civic's) I was shocked to hear the problems people are having with them already. I won't get too off topic with that but I read serious issues like 3 people with windshields coming off (less than a thousand miles on the car, I double checked the NHTSA website and formal complaints are there) oil leaks, transmissions failures, rattling like an old bus after a thousand miles........I understand these could be isolated problems and most are happy, but come on.....these are NEW cars.
Anything you can tell me about the RSX vs Integra mechancally to watch out for will be much appreciated. Just the highlights. I don't want to be a pain and I am not lazy, I plan on reading a lot of the old threads. I just don't want to go in blind again. What a costly and horrendous mistake I have already made.
They 06 civics are entirely sold out in my area though so I may recoup a good bit of my money. Thank goodness I didn't pay sticker. Being Motor Trends Car of the Year, gas prices are sky high now and with spring fever upon us I am at least in a better position than most.
is NO, they DON'T make cars like your '90 any more! Emissions standards, platform sharing, and a million tiny tweaks in search of that extra quarter point of fuel economy have taken care of that. Acura as a brand has grown up a lot since 1990 too, so the cars they offer have changed in mission to be a bit more "sophisticated", which equates to less visceral drivng feel.
Drive by wire doesn't have to be a pain in the neck like that, it is just that some cars do that hanging-onto-the-revs thing to reduce NOx emissions, and I guess from your comments that Civic is one of them! I test drove a Cobalt that did it so much it was almost undriveable. Just FYI, the RSX does NOT do that.
And lest I unintentionally misguide you, I no longer have the RSX. I had it about two years, then got the "fever" as I unvariably do and sold it for something completely different. It never gave me any problems until the end, when the auto-up windows would intermittently jump back down as if they had hit an obstacle, which they had not. That started happening at about 20K miles. But the seatback did develop a kind of rocking motion at about 15K, which required replacement of the entire seat under warranty. I was most surprised. Oh yeah, and a couple of times the electronic HVAC control that directed the air up or out or down stopped changing air directions, but each time shutting off the car reset it and it worked fine afterwards.
Beyond that, it seems that the RSXs are about as solid as most Hondas tend to be, although all the Integras right up to '01 were exceptionally good. Obviously, if the rust gremlin has raised its ugly head at your house, then perhaps you shouldn't go back to relying on the '90 as your sole transport. However, as hot as the new Civics are, I would still think you'd likely take a bit of a bath trading in such a new car - the only exception to that rule in the first year seems to be the Mini Coopers. Well, unless your '06 Civic is an SI? But I think you probably would have mentioned that. :-)
Integra vs RSX? I dunno, the Integras have the usual aging problems with electricals and water leaks from the rain. They won't be any worse than your own car, and don't usually happen until well after the 10-year or 100K-mile mark. I always check CVs on those cars, the boots tend to crack and eventually leak and ruin the joint. But that is a problem with a lot of FWD cars when they get old.
The RSXs are a bit too new still to tell what will be an endemic problem for the whole model run, but I imagine they won't stray far from the old Integras in the things that crop up.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
So, ill admit im new to this site but i figured id try it out since no one else i ask can seem to come up with an answer... I have an 89' integra Ls ,Manual,186k on car,roughly 40k on rebuilt engine, 2 door...etc.. anyhow , i've replaced the engine,clutch, alternator,battery , and the throttle body .... but Im still having starting problems...if you let it sit for like an hour or more its fine, it just acts like it has a cold start... but if you take it to do errands and u turn it off and leave it off for like...say 15min .. it wont start back up, it just keeps on cranking...but wont actually catch.. I dont really wanna take it to a shop cuz i do all my work myself and im just hoping maybe someone on here might know what its problem is... I've sorta ruled out just about everything except the fuel pump/fuel injector/Fuel relay .... Plz any advice..suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
I think you hit it - a lot of the old Hondas had a heat soak problem with the fuel pump relay - replace it and you will probably solve the problem. And I REALLY you didn't replace all that stuff trying to cure an intermittent no-start problem. :-(
Good luck!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I didnt replace all that stuff to cure that problem, the no starting problem is just the latest one. So replacing the pump should solve the no starting thing?... would it also fix the fact that if i turn off my car when i get gas and it floods itself and i cant get it started again for like half an hour? And would it fix the cold start that it has or is that related to a thermometer sensor thing?
just the relay. The car is flooding itself when you turn it off? That would be a faulty injector most likely, which would be very surprising in this car. Could it be something else? How do you know it is flooded? Could it be part of the same problem, no gas to the plugs because of a bad fuel pump relay?
And what is the cold start problem? I am afraid I missed that one.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Im not positive that its flooded but thats what im assuming because it runs fine but then if i turn off my car and get gas then try and start it when im done it wont start ...just keeps cranking but wont catch ... and the only thing i can do is sit and wait ...which usually takes about 10-15min ..enough time for everything to settle i guess. And the cold start problem , we've had it since we replaced the engine, we thought it was the temperature sensor thing but that seemed to be ok. It just pretty much takes awhile to actually start like if its really cold out , it doesnt seem to have such a problem when its warm outside or hot. We're not sure what the problem is but it all seems to be related to something in the whole fuel system (broad range i know) .. btw, if it helps any... we know it has nothing to do with the battery,alternator or the throttle body cuz those have all been replaced.
I'm looking hard at an integra (possibly even a GS-R if i can get one without outrageous insurance costs). I have a couple questions:
-Does getting a hatchback instead of a coupe help with insurance costs? -What is a good year to get a cheap, fast Integra (GS-R or otherwise) that will last a little while?
I think you should pause and diagnose your symptoms - you have a cold start problem that isn't that different from your hot start problem. You have an engine that will crank but not start (or have a hard time starting) under several conditions - you need to find out what it's NOT getting, spark, fuel, or air. Those are the three ingredients. It will take a second person to crank it while you check under the hood to see which of the ingredients you don't have whenever problems are occurring. Bad electricals often contribute to poor cold starting.
thenut8522: there is no Integra ever made that helps with insurance costs! These are some of the most expensive cars to insure I have ever experienced.
Getting a GS-R (the model with the VTEC) will always cost a premium over the "regular" Integras. There aren't many cheap GS-Rs. Now if you can do without the VTEC, the LS's (or GS's if you really want the leather) can be had fairly cheaply now in the oldest of the last-gen Integras - MY '94-96.
Integras are all decently fast, and have an IMMENSE aftermarket to make them faster for not too much money if that is your thing.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have a 92 Integra (orig owner) and had a similar intermittent starting problem. It turned out to be a cold solder joint on the fuel relay - just had to apply more solder - has been fine for two years.
we have no headlights blinkers or radio insides clock flashes on and off have no running lights but brake lights and backup lights work could somerone help
son just reasonly came thru town and car stopped runing thinks it is timing belt upon exam found oil on top of spark plug chamber and a ruined timing belt am having problem getting bolt out pulley seems to be welded in. help even uses air wrench and i won't free up. / does the oil on top mean valve cover warped?? how can get the bolt out of lower pulley
electrical problems?...have you checked all your fuses?..i had a similar problem and it turned out being as simple as a couple fuses needing replacment...or it could me your alternator...or something isnt grounded.
OMG, my 91 is slowly dying!! :sick: Combustion leak in the 3rd cylinder I have 223,300 miles and I hoped to be good for quite a few more. My mechanic is going to try "Blue Devil" metallic treatment to see if that will eliminate the leaking. Has anyone had success with this treatment? If that doesn't work, I'm off for a new engine or a new car (NOT!). For now my radiator empties within about a week or so depending upon how far I go. I travel an average of about 450 mi per week. Is there hope for my little car?!
Honestly speaking, unless your car is just in ABSOLUTELY TIP-TOP shape, your money would probably be better spent on a newer car than on a head gasket and possibly head too. You can find a good '94 or '95 (the newer style) with a lot less miles for around $5000.
Some things in the automotive universe are just signs. A head gasket failure on an older car is one - the car is telling you it's getting tired. :sick:
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Hey i need help, i just boughbt an 1990 acura integra gs and i want to make it look cool i need some tips on what to get. i want to get rims air intake and dc sport headers. i also would like tips on what to buy for the engine to make it fly.
Hi, okay this is a lame question but the trunk on my 01' Integra isn't staying up. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to, i got it second hand and wonder if they did something to break it. But yeah, i transport stuff in my trunk and its kind of annoying to hold it all the time, help?
Would it be hard to convert my 1990 acura integra GS to a manual transmission? and if its not hard around how much cash am i lookin at to do th is. if anyone could help reply that would be great.
Can anyone help me? My 92 integra has no spark. Last time it was running, it ran normal for about one minute and just stopped. I checked for spark and there was none. Replaced the igniter, no luck! Coil checked out okay. Battery voltage to coil and igniter with ignition switch on checked out okay. Anyone with any ideas? Cap and rotor have 5,000 mile on them and checked out ok. The car has 114,000 miles on it (original owner). Could it be the computer? If so is there a way to check it? Thanks!
Turn the key to the accessory position, wait about 5 seconds for the accessory lights to go out. If your check engine light stays on then there an issue with the ECU, if the check engine light goes out just like the others then it is something else. Sounds like you may have a bad (main relay) under the dash, over time the soldering joints on the curcuit board crack and go bad on them. These are between $45-$75 at most dealerships; although it is possible to repair your own by re-soldering the joints if you are familiar with soldering. The cracks in the solder joints my not be visible by eye, but should be with the use of a magnifying glass.
Thanks for the quick response. The ECU light went out after a few seconds. Do you have any idea where the main relay is on a 92 integra RS? Thanks again!
Comments
I live in Maine, so I drive to NH for service.They wanted to keep car as my driver's side seat, after 20k cracked.They wanted to replace it.
The Mazda cornered well and was very responsive,but not the same build quality of an Accura.The Mazda's ride was stiff,but more comfortable than my car.
In order to get heated seats you have to buy your RSX S in Canada. The Mazda 2.3 comes with leather and with heated seats, I wonder how M.P.G. you get though.
I don't know,if I was to buy again,I'd get a base RSX 160 H.P. 5 spd.I wish they still made the Integra.
I've had my Mazda 5 for about 2 months now and also own a 90 Integra GS. I purchased my Integra brand new and have proudly owned it ever since.
The Mazda 5 is about the same length as my Integra, narrower then my Integra, yet through enhancements in design and engineering is so much roomier inside. The Mazda 5 really handles like a car, the brakes are strong, the engine is really responsive, overall performance is very good. However, what you gain in performance you lose in mileage. The 5 seems a bit on the thirsty side even though I havent been driving it hard. With that said I would still recommend the Mazda 5 to anyone. The 5 has to be one of the best values out there, you get alot for what you pay.
One thing that alot of people forget to mention about the early 90's Integra's is how good they were on gas. They are cheap to run.
By the way there is one thing in common between your Integra and the Mazda 5, they are both built in Japan.
The engine was incredible! Plenty of torque, and smooth as Cool Whip! Acts like a V6.
Nice dash, and robust structure.
But the shifter was too far forward, and the throws were longer. The looks are chunky, not as slick as my Silver Bullet! Seats were a compromise, built for a wider driver, not as bolstered as mine.
Plenty of slop in the brakes, which some like, but feels far less diect and involved than my Integra. Softer ride, and relaxed control responses say "Camry", not "sporty coupe".
The RSX maybe a better car, but is not a "driver's car" anymore. Fast, but seems more soft than sharp.
DrFill
Between the speedometer and the tachometer, there is a vertical display that indicates which gear the vehicle is in.
The problem: when the gear selector is in the “Park” position and the key is turned to the start position, occasionally, the “S3” flashes on and off every second. Every time this happens, the engine will turn over but will never start
Sometimes, you can successfully start the car a few minutes later, but other times, the car has to sit overnight before cranking.
The problem is not predictable.
When the “P” is lit and the “S3” is not, the engine always starts.
I have a 1991 Integra that I have owned since I bought it new in Nov. 1991. I LOVE THIS LITTLE CAR! Honestly I wasn't in love with it when I bought it but I did my research and felt this was the best car/value at the time for a car in this class. I have never looked back as it is the best vehicle i have ever owned! I have 220,000+ miles on this puppy and it's still ROLLING! I'm trying to plan for the future as far as deciding on what the next car will be but I want to know how others are doing with vehicles this age. Can I expect to ROLL up to 300,000 miles?? The family is beginning to get on my case about my needing a newer, more reliable car but I say MY car has been very reliable all of these years so why fix it if it is not broken? Besides, what on earth would I buy that would serve me as well for the next 15 years: fun to drive, economical, great gas mileage, etc.? I can't imagine what will come close. Any suggestions, comments out there?
1) can't find anywhere on the forum if it uses regular unleaded (87 octane)
2) asking price is $3500, hoping to get it for $3000, is that a "fair" price"
3) what other service items should i get done?
THANKS!
From everyone's experience, what else should I check out to prevent future dying on the road problems?
Thanks
Matt
:mad:
The same thing has happened in the past and it turned out to be an insecure battery cable. This time, however, the battery cables are very tight.
Wondering if this is a sign for a new starter, relay, etc.... Please advice. Also, what's the cost to fix this?
I've a 94 Integra Auto, 80 K miles
My impressions were the exact OPPOSITE of yours, except for one: the new car makes the road feel more remote from the driver than the old one did. This is on purpose, I am sure, on Honda's part. They were trying to "mature" the car, and as a result the driving experience is less raw. This is something which I dislike, just as you do.
But OMG! The "Camry" of sport coupes? Long shifter throws? Wider seats with less bolstering? Softer ride? No way. Driving the new models made the glaring ergonomic flaws and sloppy ride of the '01 very noticeable. In the end it was no contest at all.
In the end, the only question for me was type-S vs base, and the higher fuel economy and availability of cloth seats on the base model steered me that way. At the time, the handling difference between base and 'S' was negligible, and I wasn't one to be in the higher-lift part of the powerband of the 'S' all the time, so I went with the base model.
Integras are very impressive though. They last forever. I still see my old '88 LS running around with its new owner, and it would be well over 250K by now. He commutes to work in it, even at its age, and I am sure it gives him no trouble - never gave me any.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
You may have to wait until it is doing it most of the time before you can get a proper diagnosis, however.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
You're right that I should wait...chances are it'll start perfectly when I go to the shop. Plus, the problem is less frequent now than a few months ago. I'm thinking it's weather related since it's now much warmer here in the NE.
My Integra just failed CA smog test in the NOX(PPM) . The first test failed at 25mph. My mechanic changed the converter on it, told me to drive about half an hour then have the car test again. The number got worse, and the car failed both 15mph and 25 mph tests. Since the new converter should at least improve the test, my mechanic wants to change the converter again. He also mentioned there maybe an issue with the EGP(?), he says this is a known problem with Integra and there is a toolkit issued by Honda to fix just this problem. :sick:
Could you please shed some light on this problem?
My Integra also has a problem that from driving a little while(usually after 30 minutes but can be few minutes), the engine light went on. Is this a known problem? what needs to be done here? :confuse:
Thanks.
Michael
This guy wouldn't be getting my money - take it to a shop that knows how to diagnose smog problems. I have also never heard of a special "Honda toolkit" for '92 Integras to pass smog tests, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Need some advice as you both mentioned steering and road feel.....
I own a 90 Integra and recently bought 06 Civic but am not satisfied with the steering in the new car. I knew there would be an adjustment, but I am totally disconnected to the road in the civic. Dealer service admits overboosting with power steering this year as I had to bring it in because I was convinced it was out of alignment due to its pulling and tracking issues. Says the steering is just so sensitive that it will feel like its pulling with road crown and will feel jittery at highway speeds. Great. Made to feel that way....I am not sure I want to live with this.....I practically need valium after driving the car. LOL.
BTW, I of course test drove, but I thought sensitivity would get better as I got used to it and it hasn't.
I still have my 90 and it's under a 100k. I am so discouraged at this point I may just keep it and sell the Civic outright as it's a hot car and with gas prices they can't keep it on the lots.
Since I am so satified with the steering "feel" and the road feedback I am getting from Acura(and NONE of the new cars have that anymore) can you tell me at what point there was a big steering change with these Integra's/RSX?
I want the connected to the road feel.
Sounds like I won't like the RSX either at least the new ones. What about the 02/03 RSX?
Also is there a big dfference in steering between a 90 and a 2001 Integra?
Any advice from anyone that would point me in the direction of a better car for me is greatly appreciated as I am far away from an Acura dealership and would like to get some tips so I have an idea what to test drive.
Thanks
With the RSX, Honda went for this Integra-all-grown-up feel. While the RSX's limits are higher than the old Integras, there is also less road feel, although compared to the Civic, forget it. For one thing, the RSX still uses hydraulic P/S, while the new Civic uses the crappy electric.
AFAIK there is no difference between the steering on the 02/03 RSX vs the brand new one now. All they changed for '05 was giving the type-S bigger sway bars and rims, and both trims a bit more sound-proofing. If you are just considering the base model, the '06 is virtually identical (except for the visual tweaks) to the 02/03.
Lastly, as you are probably aware, the odds are very good that your '90 with that few miles will go on chugging for quite some years yet, as long as you took good care of it along the way. Maybe just sell the Civic and keep driving it?
The only new car now that has as much road feel as the Integras of old (that doesn't cost an arm and a leg) is the Mini. And you know how hard it is getting your hands on one of those...
Of course, I haven't driven a Miata or a Solstice, both of which probably have very good road feel and handling. If tops-off is your sort of thing, of course...
This is what I do in cars with electric power steering.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks so much - you answered all of my questions perfectly. So glad to find someone who knows what I am talking about, so few understand road feel/steering feedback issues and know the Integra.
I won't get my hopes up too much about the RSX although it may be worth trying. I may be able to find an 01 Integra with low miles as that won't be any radical change at least. I can deal with suspension changes more than steering (I wish I knew this before hand) Ultimately I will have to decide myself but this is very hard if I buy an Acura as I have to drive 2 hours to a dealership and I will be test driving on unfamiliar roads in a metropolitan area and I live in a rural one (lots of curvy roads).
I ruled out a new RSX as I wouldn't be able to utilize a new car warranty due to distance, but an 02 will be out of warranty anyway so it won't matter. The Acura dealer is very high volume and has 3 RSX's under 25K miles. One only has 14K. Also helpful, my next door neighbor is a mechanic and has no problem working on my 90 Integra.
Which brings me to the next thing. My neighbor certainly has never worked on my engine......I bought it 5 years old at 27K and it has 93K miles now. I am not bragging when I say what a good car it's been. 16 years old and has started first time every day. Only broke down once, I belive it was a distributor part. Oil changed regularly and I put timing belt on at 90K. Getting some rust though and you know what a cancer that is.
Do they MAKE cars like this anymore? LOL I am leaning toward keeping it. It truly has more drivability than my new Civic. Of course this is just my opinion, but aside from steering there is the new Drive By Wire technology that holds the throttle after you've released it and the RPM's stay up for a second before releasing with a noticable jerk. This makes stop and go driving a pain and dealer service and Honda say it's "normal"..... My 16 year old car is smoother to drive.
Maybe you can give me an idea of the mechanical reliability of the RSX since you own one.
It has been quite a personal turmoil I have been through to have a beatiful new car in my driveway that I am having so much difficulty driving, so thanks for listening. When I looked for steering help (many on the Edmonds Civic Coupe boards having similar issues with their new Civic's) I was shocked to hear the problems people are having with them already. I won't get too off topic with that but I read serious issues like 3 people with windshields coming off (less than a thousand miles on the car, I double checked the NHTSA website and formal complaints are there) oil leaks, transmissions failures, rattling like an old bus after a thousand miles........I understand these could be isolated problems and most are happy, but come on.....these are NEW cars.
Anything you can tell me about the RSX vs Integra mechancally to watch out for will be much appreciated. Just the highlights. I don't want to be a pain and I am not lazy, I plan on reading a lot of the old threads. I just don't want to go in blind again. What a costly and horrendous mistake I have already made.
They 06 civics are entirely sold out in my area though so I may recoup a good bit of my money. Thank goodness I didn't pay sticker. Being Motor Trends Car of the Year, gas prices are sky high now and with spring fever upon us I am at least in a better position than most.
Thanks again.
Drive by wire doesn't have to be a pain in the neck like that, it is just that some cars do that hanging-onto-the-revs thing to reduce NOx emissions, and I guess from your comments that Civic is one of them! I test drove a Cobalt that did it so much it was almost undriveable. Just FYI, the RSX does NOT do that.
And lest I unintentionally misguide you, I no longer have the RSX. I had it about two years, then got the "fever" as I unvariably do and sold it for something completely different. It never gave me any problems until the end, when the auto-up windows would intermittently jump back down as if they had hit an obstacle, which they had not. That started happening at about 20K miles. But the seatback did develop a kind of rocking motion at about 15K, which required replacement of the entire seat under warranty. I was most surprised. Oh yeah, and a couple of times the electronic HVAC control that directed the air up or out or down stopped changing air directions, but each time shutting off the car reset it and it worked fine afterwards.
Beyond that, it seems that the RSXs are about as solid as most Hondas tend to be, although all the Integras right up to '01 were exceptionally good. Obviously, if the rust gremlin has raised its ugly head at your house, then perhaps you shouldn't go back to relying on the '90 as your sole transport. However, as hot as the new Civics are, I would still think you'd likely take a bit of a bath trading in such a new car - the only exception to that rule in the first year seems to be the Mini Coopers. Well, unless your '06 Civic is an SI? But I think you probably would have mentioned that. :-)
Integra vs RSX? I dunno, the Integras have the usual aging problems with electricals and water leaks from the rain. They won't be any worse than your own car, and don't usually happen until well after the 10-year or 100K-mile mark. I always check CVs on those cars, the boots tend to crack and eventually leak and ruin the joint. But that is a problem with a lot of FWD cars when they get old.
The RSXs are a bit too new still to tell what will be an endemic problem for the whole model run, but I imagine they won't stray far from the old Integras in the things that crop up.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have an 89' integra Ls ,Manual,186k on car,roughly 40k on rebuilt engine, 2 door...etc.. anyhow , i've replaced the engine,clutch, alternator,battery , and the throttle body .... but Im still having starting problems...if you let it sit for like an hour or more its fine, it just acts like it has a cold start... but if you take it to do errands and u turn it off and leave it off for like...say 15min .. it wont start back up, it just keeps on cranking...but wont actually catch.. I dont really wanna take it to a shop cuz i do all my work myself and im just hoping maybe someone on here might know what its problem is... I've sorta ruled out just about everything except the fuel pump/fuel injector/Fuel relay .... Plz any advice..suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
Good luck!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
And what is the cold start problem? I am afraid I missed that one.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
.. btw, if it helps any... we know it has nothing to do with the battery,alternator or the throttle body cuz those have all been replaced.
-Does getting a hatchback instead of a coupe help with insurance costs?
-What is a good year to get a cheap, fast Integra (GS-R or otherwise) that will last a little while?
Thanks
thenut8522: there is no Integra ever made that helps with insurance costs! These are some of the most expensive cars to insure I have ever experienced.
Getting a GS-R (the model with the VTEC) will always cost a premium over the "regular" Integras. There aren't many cheap GS-Rs. Now if you can do without the VTEC, the LS's (or GS's if you really want the leather) can be had fairly cheaply now in the oldest of the last-gen Integras - MY '94-96.
Integras are all decently fast, and have an IMMENSE aftermarket to make them faster for not too much money if that is your thing.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Found the fix on http://www.g2ic.com/
(BTW, I still haven't found a good replacement for this car so I'm driving it till it drops)
Graham
Honestly speaking, unless your car is just in ABSOLUTELY TIP-TOP shape, your money would probably be better spent on a newer car than on a head gasket and possibly head too. You can find a good '94 or '95 (the newer style) with a lot less miles for around $5000.
Some things in the automotive universe are just signs. A head gasket failure on an older car is one - the car is telling you it's getting tired. :sick:
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
:confuse:
Thanks