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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • sspsssps Posts: 2
    My 1993 Integra is making 2 separate sounds related to the whhels. Sound #1: when first driven in the morning, front wheels make a "jog-jog-jog" or "wob-wob-wob" sound that sounds like a sewing machine. The sound frequency is related to the car speed when it is rolling without brakes - slower speed= slower frequency, faster speed=faster frequncy. Sound (mostly) goes away once the brakes are applied, and after the car is driven for about 20 minutes it goes away until the next day.
    Sound#2: After the car has been driven for an hour or so, there is a "click-pop" noise from the rear wheels when braking at slow speeds, approx. 15 mph, for example, stop+go traffic. Does not happen at higher speeds and does not affect braking ability.
    Any ideas, anyone?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    could sound #1 just be the brakes scrubbing the overnight rust off the rotors? Or wait, you said WITHOUT pressing the brakes? In that case, could you have a sticky caliper that is rubbing against the rotors at first and then straightens itself out after warming up?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • sspsssps Posts: 2
    thanks - we had the rotors greased a couple of years ago and that temporarily solved the "pop-click" problem (sound #2). So maybe the sounds are related.
    The dealer mechanic said the rotors are always in tension and so "couldn't make that sound", but we'll check it out...
  • jay6jay6 Posts: 1
    i have a 93 integra i am tryin to put 17 inch rs rims i just wannna know if it would work
  • superusersuperuser Posts: 3
    my gf has a 95 integra SE w/auto trans. She bought it used, and does not have the manual. The car currently has ~80k mi, and we are wondering when we should change the timing belt. What does the manual recommend?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    it became a 105K timing belt, I think. But I don't know if they really changed anything from the years of 1990-96, when it was a 90K belt. They just did it to meet new OBDII regulations for California, most likely. Since the car is already a decade old, if I were you and I planned to keep the car a while I would probably just do it now. They can replace the water pump and camshaft seals at the same time. Save trouble later, what with that belt being ten years old already.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • superusersuperuser Posts: 3
    ok, 90k seems reasonable. I remember in my 95 civic it said something similar. She now has 87k, sounds like we caught it in time. She is planning to sell the car in about a year (when graduates from law school), and she might put another 10k miles before that, so we are still debating on whether to do the whole thing.

    quick supplemental question: what should we expect to pay for the timing belt/ water pump / camshaft seals as far as labor? any ideas? She got quoted $600 for the timing belt alone, sounds like a little much
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    for just the timing belt? Are you sure that didn't include the water pump? Most places would include that as a standard part of the job. And $600 for t-belt and water pump still sounds a little high, but I would expect it to cost $450, maybe $500. Do the camshaft seals too: it is no additional labor and the seals themselves cost almost nothing. Later they will begin to seep and leak, and then it will be the same labor all over again to go in and replace them.

    Labor is about 2.5 hours, as I recall. Have them break down the costs item by item for you.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • japcar1japcar1 Posts: 1
    Have a 91 integra gs 180k just this week electric light and abs light came on and remain on. Had a new rebuilt alternator and belts put on in last 16 months . Manual indicates that abs comes on when there is an electric issue so that answers the abs question.

    Has the alternator failed and I am only going on whats left on the battery, or is there something else quite possibly that could be the issue?.

    Anyone have an inexpensive way to troupleshoot this problem as I currently am not working and a trip to the garage will end up up with me abandoning car.

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    yup, most likely you need an alternator - you can put an ammeter on it to see. The output spec should be in the back of the manual, or available on the web. It shouldn't fluctuate. Before you do that though, check the belt is still on and is tight. That is pretty easy. The tension in the belt should be such that it is not "ropy" - it should be taut.

    Kinda sucks that your alternator died after only 16 months - any chance the place that sold it to you would help out a little with replacing it?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • vancleavevancleave Posts: 3
    First of all, this may be the coolest site I have ever found! I just purchased a 1991 Integra GS back in January. It has 75k miles on a new engine and I don't know how many miles on the car itself.

    I am having two problems as of now. The biggest one is that when I shift into third at higher RPM's it grinds a little going in. I usually just let the RPM's come back down to about 2500 before shifting and it goes in fine. I have heard that it might just be the synchro mesh and it would be cheap to repair, but others tell me that any tranny problem is going to be VERY expensive so I should just drive soft till the tranny dies and buy a new one.

    The other problem is that my passenger side seatbelt (it's automatic) doesn't come back up and lock when the door shuts. Consequently no one feels very safe riding with me :). Would this be something I could fix or if I need to take it in would it be cheap? I would be way grateful for any responses!! :confuse:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Ack! Those stupid motorized seat belts from the early 90s have proven very expensive to repair/replace in the cars of some friends of mine. I don't know about the Integra specifically though, because I have never had that problem. The problem will be that it needs a new motor, I am sure, and they were a few hundred dollars in a couple of Saturns my friends had.

    The third gear thing may well just be that you need a new clutch? 75K is probably also how old the existing clutch is, and in an Integra agressive driving is awfully tempting which tends to wear out the clutch...

    Is it easy to slip into first gear without a crunch when you are still rolling forward slightly, or is that really difficult? If difficult, it is likely the clutch. If smooth and easy, it may be the synchros, you are right. In that case the repair is VERY EXPENSIVE. I would skip it - just take it easy on the shift, rev-match if you can, and double clutching can also help sometimes.

    The reason that repair is expensive is that the transmission has to come out of the car and get opened up. I am sure you'd be looking at a bill north of $500 at any shop worth its salt. Manual transmission rebuilding is a rare art, so find a good place to do it. Double A, M-C-O...DON'T go there! :-P

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • vancleavevancleave Posts: 3
    yeah the funny thing about the seatbelt is that it works every once in a while. VERY odd. I think it may be something with the electrical system but I don't know how much that is to fix either

    The car got a new clutch from the guy I bought it from, so I didn't think it was the clutch. The first gear will go in fine while rolling forward so by what you're saying we're looking at the synchros, which really sucks. I guess just taking it easy on the tranny till she can't take it anymore is the only way to go. I have been rev-matching while I drive and it seems to help a bunch. Thanks for the heads up on the Double A, M-C-O!! I will definately trust you on that one. You are a HUGE help, thanks!! :)
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    hey the good news on the seat belt is that if it works occasionally, it is probably not the motor. Which means the repair if you choose to do it should be fairly cheap. Pick a time when it is acting up and check if the motor is getting electricity, follow it back from there. Those things must have a switch somewhere, which would be the next most likely candidate.

    As for third gear, you are right, it is very likely a broken synchro. There may be some situations where if you rev it enough you can bypass third gear entirely. Sorry to hear that. :-(

    I was looking at a '92 last year that was on a lot, not a private sale. They were like "yeah, this is a fantastic car, no problems at all" and when I went to drive it, second gear was almost totally unengagable - the synchro was shot. I went back and pointed it out, their response was "no, this is a fantastic car, no problems at all". I think they just wanted my money.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • vancleavevancleave Posts: 3
    I can understand that. Maybe you should have taken the dealers in the car and had him drive for you. Then when he shifts into second you can ask if the grinding and crunching is normal:)

    Another thing is my car is black, four door. I love the thing, just unfortunate that I will have to replace the tranny soon probably. The trim around the doors is mostly all black but there are a few pieces that are silver. I would like to make them all black but am not sure what I should use to paint them. Any suggestions?

    Also, the rubber seal on the door frame on the driver side is coming apart a little. Should I just glue it back and temporarily sove it or is there a better way? Thanks!!
  • carpetmancarpetman Posts: 1
    Shoulder belt problems on driver side. Not working at all. Assuming after reading vancleave that I have to replace motor? Anyone have instructions? Edmunds has been asked to NOT make available any maintenance or repair info from American Honda!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Edmunds has repair data on ANY cars.

    I don't have any personal experience with those awful motorized belts, but it can't be too hard to replace one. Just a lot of sweat! Check the switch first, just like any other motorized part in the car.

    vancleave - repairing those rubber gaskets around the door never works for long. Better to just replace them, and not very expensive for parts. They are a hassle to get right if you install them yourself, and cheap to have a shop do, so I have only ever done it once (and not on an Integra!).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Does anyone know the adjustments for 00 integra ls automatic.....I need the cleareances pleeeeeeassseee someone have them!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • carlyjcarlyj Posts: 1
    I need new tires for my 99 Integra. I've called several people, and the following tires are available to me:

    Cooper 2Xs Zeon
    Dunlop Sport
    Falcon ZE 512

    Is one of these better than the others? Advice please.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    are a good all around tire, but probably not the sportiest. The others I have no personal experience of, but lots of people run them, so they must be decent tires.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • sleeper24sleeper24 Posts: 2
    17 would work fine i hav a 91 integra and i hav 17 on my car :)
  • sleeper24sleeper24 Posts: 2
    dose anyone know if i could put acura rsx seats in my 91 integra ....even if i take out all the mounting from the rsx i know i might have to make some modifications but if its gonna be to complicated i'll just go wit some aftermarket stuff
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    $850? While I would usually say that any car that will start up and idle is probably worth $850, this sounds like a wreck. Will it pass a smog check if you have one? If it is a dealer, I am assuming he will guarantee that? If not, don't do it. The car will not "recharge itself" if the alternator is dead, so price that repair and add the price of a battery, since it will likely need one. If you haven't been able to drive the car, add at least $1000 in unforeseen repairs for the first year, and possibly as much as $2000.

    Personally, I would pass. The leather is ALWAYS shot in old GSs, it will be $1000 just to properly reupholster the seats. Slap some $20 parts store sheepskins on them, and I guess you could live with it. It will be AT LEAST $500 to paint it, and at that price it will be the type of job that will last two years and begin to fall apart. Or you could just let it go and drive it as is. As with every Integra, check the CVs and boots. Check the trunk/under the hatch (under the floor) for water leakage or staining. Check all electrical accessories (lights all around and wipers) individually, and make sure the HVAC fan is working, and that the directional switches (windshield/face vents/floor) are working.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • y2k_lsy2k_ls Posts: 2
    I have heard that v-tec engines have a 120 mph cutoff in the computer. Do the LS non v-tec engines have one as well? If so how do I override it?
    Many Thanks
  • mrblaumrblau Posts: 1
    thanks for your advice
    i'm gonna pass on it
  • swo_vicswo_vic Posts: 4
    alright, i just got a 1996 acura integra special edition hatchback (automatic). Can anyone provide the specs for it, and some basic do's and donts when it comes to racing it....its stock. i would really appreciate it. thanks
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    you're racing an automatic?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Look this is retarded to say the least. Why sit here and judge the two different cars, civic and integra, separate??... Mix the two smart ones. :P THAT is the best all around civic there is. What you want to do is find one of the lightweight 92-95 Civic hatchbacks for a fairly cheap price not worrying about the motor. Then get a 97 or so Integra LS Motor and tranny dropped in and put an Integra GSR Head on it for the best LS/VTEC. THAT is my opinion on what you should do. That would smoke any Integra or civic any day and with a little bit of mods to it... V8s would be no problem. ALL I'm saying is that if you want into the Honda/Acura area of cars then do it right the first time...
  • swo_vicswo_vic Posts: 4
    yes, i have raced my integra, and i have won against an escort and accord. i have dared to even race the following
    mustang cobra r 330hp
    rsx type s (something like that) 220 hp
    rx-8 hp?
    corvette hp?
    i am not stupid i know that these cars are fast and i did it for fun.

    still need the specs of my integra
  • v-tec engines don't have a shut off, well at least mine don't, it will run 165 mph before even getting close to redlining... the cars in ok condition and all it would need is a stage 2 clutch and some carbon fiber parts and it would be an at least 7 second car... b/c it already hits speeds of 135mph within a 1/4 mile... if any one knows some one who has the time and money to get this car, i'm selling it for only 5,500 dollars and oh by the way it's a 1995 acura integra GSR, 5speed and like i said very fast...! need money for doctor bills for mom... thanks any questions e-mail me back at
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