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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • 94gsrzoom94gsrzoom Posts: 1
    Honda/Acura build soild cars. 180k is nothing for some. my girlfriend and her old man had matching 92 acura ledgends. her car is pushing 260k with a slight valve tap and a little oil leak, and her dad's had 305k! Those where v6's but they both still run like new. If the engine sounds good after warming up, no taps, pings or such, then it might be a keeper. check the oil, look to see if it is dark black, it could mean a dirty crank case, which could leave you with problems. Also have someone rev the engine and stand behind it looking at the exhast. Grey exhast is good. Black=burt out rings,valves and burning oil. White=coolent leak, cracked block broken head gassket etc. The alternator must be changed thats probably why the car won't start. when they start it at the dealership, the alternator can't charge the battery. This must be fixed! If you buy the car, tow it to a outside mechnic, dealerships double prices, but have better quality although.
    1.Ask about the timing belt. it probably needs to be changed. if it breaks while you are driving, the valves bend and you will be sitting in a piece of junk.
    2. Stay away from acura automatics, japanese don't make great autos before 1998!
    3. check the clutch. when taking the car for a test drive and if it is a manual, bring the car up to 35mph then shift into 5th gear. If the engine revs, but the car dosen't move, then the clutch is going out soon.

    If you do buy the car, imediatly change the oil, it's been sitting with the same oil for 6 months, it needs changing! Also run some fuel additave through the car and fill only a quarter of the tank up with premium fuel leving the rest empty. Go on the highway and leave the car in 4 gear while staying at 70-80, be easy on it. This will help clean out fuel lines, and upper cylinder heads

    If you buy it, welcome to the Acura family!
  • swo_vicswo_vic Posts: 4
    how much would a 1996 acura integra special edition hatchback (automatic). sell for? in pretty good d@#$ condition, too

    leather interior
    cd player/radio/am-fm
    cruise control
    engine is super clean
    all electic
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    LOL! Honda doesn't make great automatics AFTER 1998 either!

    I know 180K is nothing for a Honda engine, but this $850 car sounds like it has been neglected badly. Unless you are looking for a project, why pick this one up? There are a lot of fish in the sea. What kind of dealer would be trying to sell a car with a dead alternator? The bad kind, that's what kind.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • geckoo22geckoo22 Posts: 1
    Im what you might call a newbie driver. Most car work i did was maybe put in a radio and a front lip, and strut bars. Anyway i want an integra. I found a 94 special edition one. This car features 17 inch racinghart rims wrapped in falken tires. The car is lowered with Eibach peformance springs and KYb performance shocks along with neuspeed rear lower tie bar,and Type-R rear strut tower bar,and Type-R front tower bar and rear sway bar,and performance shortshifter. Type-R Wing, Front lip and Rear Alteeza lights. This car also features an Alpine Stero system. The car also has a CompuStar alarm system with a remote starter. It has 94k miles on it. And its stick. The pictures look amazing.He wants 4800 obo And im thinking this deal is toooooo good to be true because the one i was looking at yesterday was a 97 stock with 99k miles for 5200. What do you guys think, Is that a good deal?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    cars that are heavily modded are often used to race. That's why it can often be better to pick up a stock car, since the raced car may have been abused. If you get the stock car, YOU can be the first one to race it! :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • swo_vicswo_vic Posts: 4
    i think that , that teg is a pretty good d#$%deal!!!. i mean i bought my teg for 3,999 and its a 1996 special edition 2dr, but it was all stock. i guess it does seem too good to be true, but i guess you could obviously take it for a test drive. Just make sure who you are buying it from, there are cases where the seller might come back and take it back illegally, if you know what i mean.
  • removationremovation Posts: 5
    Hi there,
    I've been a Nissan Z guy for many years, but have finally decided it's time for a change. (my '85 300z had too many problems at only 130K. )

    I'm considering a used Integra, '94, 130K for about $2500. No major body rust, newer radiator, rear brakes. The power sunroof thing is jumpy, but it seems to run fine.

    What can I expect to go wrong with this car? Anything that might potentially cause a breakdown on the road within the next 30K or so? How long can I expect this thing to last if properly maintained?

    Thanks in advance,
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I am sure it will go longer than you would ever want to keep it, if properly maintained. What do you know about the timing belt? if you don't have a record of replacement, do it now. That would be one thing that could strand you.

    What do you mean, the moonroof is jumpy? Does it keep water out when you go through the car wash?

    Those are nice miles for the year. As with all older Hondas, keep an eye on the oil level. Remember to check it at least once every third gas fill-up, or at least every 1000 miles or so. They are great cars. have fun! :-)

    edit...oh wait, I see you haven't bought it yet? Definitely ask about the t-belt, and also oil consumption if you think they will tell you the truth. Check CV boots and joints closely, also rear lights, all wipers, and HVAC fan and all controls. Should be fine. That was the first year of the squinty little headlights - loved that style myself.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • removationremovation Posts: 5
    Hey thanks! This was the impression I got. good advice 'bout the cv joints and bootz. since it's a trans-mount drivetrain, I'm guessing the timing belt ain't too expensive? I think it was done at around 85 or 90K.

    Sunroof opening jumpy meant that it seemed to be skipping in and out of it's tracks...maybe the motor is starting to go. as long as it seals water I'm happy!

    I like the squinty headlights as well - the earlier years are also good cars, but it's the style that got me for the 94+. (I also found out, although it's unrelated, my cool old Z-cars are marketed to women in japan. Damnit!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    dealer will charge you about $500-550 to replace the belt, the water pump, and the camshaft seals behind it. Indie shop will doubtless beat that price by 10-20%, although with this one repair I would have the dealer do it myself - it is a bit tricky on DOHC Hondas.

    You can also get the cost down by not replacing the seals and pump, if you are so inclined. And since it is a 90K belt, you shouldn't have anything to worry about anyway, if you have the records to prove it was done at 85-90K.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • removationremovation Posts: 5
    Thanks again. T-belt was done between 85 and 90K. I'll have to ask about the water pump and seals. I'm guessing if whoever did is remotely good, they did these at the same time. I'll also probably bring it in to a dealer for CV joint checks and anything else of concern.

    I'm suprised at how little rust the thing has for 10 years old in New England. I'm also suprised at how much room there is under the hood! My '85 Z was *such* a joy to work on (sarcasm).
  • lash2lash2 Posts: 1
    i just bought a 94 ls motor, can someone send me specs on that?
  • integra96integra96 Posts: 1
    Did you ever find your code? I just had the same problem and cannot find my code.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    How long do timing belts last on a B18A if they were installed correctly? When I bought my 90 GS the guy claimed to have done it at 90k but he had no paperwork to support that so I went ahead and did it "again" at 140k. Just curious when I should do it again.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    if you are not driving it real hard, you can go 90K on each belt. The "severe" schedule back then recommended 60K intervals. Personally, I always figure 90K is OK for the t-belts on all the 1.8L engines, except for the VTECs, for which 60K intervals are a much better idea (especially if you find yourself on the hot cam all too often!).

    If you go here:

    and click on "Timing Belt Replacement Guide", it gives you all the specs.

    Note that the 105K spec later on used exactly the same belt as the earlier "90K" belts. Also note that the 1.8 uses a t-belt-driven water pump, so you should DEFINITELY change the pump when you replace the belt. It is just so much smarter for the few extra bucks than doing the labor again when the pump starts to leak between t-belt changes.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • teg420teg420 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 92 acura integra today and the guy I bought it from told me it had vtec. Im not to knowledgable about cars but my friends are. The head was painted horribly so we took it off to paint it black today. Once off, my friend was suprised to not see where the vtec was. My question is, is there some way to to tell where the vtec is because we thought we could feel it kick in when I shifted at higher RPMs but its hard to tell since my exaust is so friggin loud. Help me because I fear I got ripped off.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Well first off I'm guessing that "teg420" is a young gentlemen. second I'm guessing that he is a stoner (420) third I'm guessing these two conditions led to him getting utterly ripped off on his first (hopefully not his second) car. That's OK, we live and learn. My first car was an American car - i think that pretty much says it all, right?

    Back to the problem w/ VTEC or no VTEC, we need to know more info... is it an RS, LS, GS, GS-R. If it's not the last one (which I highly doubt b/c they are rarely found or sold) than I think you got screwed. That is unless he did a motor swap or put a VTEC head on their (which as far as I've seen is always clearly visible) than it's as weak as my 1.8L GS engine. Given the fact that he painted the head (AND I think you mean valve cover) I'm guessing he's not the ultra racer he described himself as. It's not the end of the world though. If you're in California there are laws against pressure sales (I think it's within 3 days, but your defence can't be idiocy and lack of research. :lemon:

    But as far as I know the only VTEC for that year was the GS-R. So lay off the dope and start saving for a GSR motor like the rest of us. :D
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    is right - the only VTECs all the way back were the GS-Rs (and the type R's in the years they made those, but that is QUITE another story!), and they all had a little silver badge at the back of the car that said 'VTEC'. And yes, it is obvious to the eye once you remove the valve cover.

    Now if the seller was a racer, it is perfectly conceivable that he DID do a motor swap into a lesser trim, but again, it should be obvious when you remove the valve cover.

    And unless my memory is betraying me, all GS-Rs came with leather, alloys, and a moonroof even that far back, so if your car is missing one of those, it is not a GS-R.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • i have a 1995 integra 123k i believe it is LS im a noob i know but i was thinking of
    turboing this car after i overhaul the engine. i was told the LS was the best model for this, any opinions?
  • teg420teg420 Posts: 2
    My integra has a LS engine, and according to your information that means its does not have V-tec. It has been about 2 weeks since I bought the car. Do you think if I tell him I want my money back he will comply? I don't like the fact that I got ripped off when I thought I was getting a good deal. PS: the 420 is not a reference to the national marijuana day, its a reference to my birthday, April 20th.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    yup, you're down about 40 hp from where you thought you were.

    If it was a dealer, you have rights, and you could try going back. If it was a private seller, you have less rights - private sales are not well regulated. You may have to sue the seller to take it back on the basis of lying about it, and even then you may not win. In the case of a private purchase, I would say go talk to the seller and try to be reasonable, see if they will take it back. Hopefully, the car is still in exactly the same condition as when you bought it?

    Either way, if the promise of VTEC or a specific trim level was never documented in writing, you may be out of luck - it will be a tough road. Good luck to you!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    I re-read what "Nippononly" wrote and he brings up a good point. Whenever you do a private sale always do it in writing. Assume that everything expressed verbally is a complete lie because they can totally flip in court. I started doing that after my 3rd car sale. It gives you piece of mind. :shades:
  • deryckfmderyckfm Posts: 29
    Friend of mine just picked up an 05 S2K. Got to drive it a bit, though kept it under 5k rpm and only went up to 3rd gear due to it being in the break-in period still. Noticed a difference in torque, handling and overall sportscar-like feel to it compared to my 00 GSR.

    I am having thoughts about replacing my GSR with a used S2K (2003 at least w/ around the same mileage I have on the GSR, w/c is 15k). Question is, is it worth it to have to come up with $8k for a downpayment and a $5k loan (assuming I find a S2K for under $23k and get at least $11.5k for the GSR). GSR is paid for, is less to insure, gets better gas mileage and most importantly, still look forward to having some seat time on it.

    Thanks in advance in helping me sort things out.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Judging by the fact that you're not sure if you should upgrade to an S2000 I think they're is still saving you! First thing you should ask yourself: Am I so utterly rich I don't where to throw my money or is someone else paying for my car habit. If you answered yes to either of these questions go for it! If not (the rest of us) don't get your self into more debt to have a fancier car that costs more to insure and gives a bigger headache. Dont forget that cars are money pits... you throw your money in and it dont come back! If I were you I would spend maybe 4-5 g's on your car, make it faster, finsih off the suspension, sound system etc. Than you can spend another couple hundred taking your friends out to dinner, Finally you can send me a check for $500 bucks and include a picture of your better looking GSR and I'll send you back an index card that says that your car looks tite. After all that you'll be saving more money with insurance, you'll have spent less than your idea of getting the S2000, your friends will like you more and most importantly: I will have respect for you. :shades:
  • deryckfmderyckfm Posts: 29
    Had it not been for the $5k drop in the Integra's value from just last summer, it would have been an easier decision. Having to cough up $8k for a downpayment again is the questionable part.

    Hope only1harry comes along and sheds more light.......
  • hey! i can honestly say i know how u feel...i just bought a 95 integra in awesome condition for $4000 as also has a special edition sticker on it and the dealer wasnt even sure if it was or not...but even for a awesome condition integra its not bad at all...mine as well has leather seats and all that its also a hatchback urs i believe mine has been in an accident as well tho....when i got it home i was showing my friend the trunk area and there were pieces of glass where the hatchback had been previously shattered...mine also has 15'' phat 5 rims when i bought it...i would love to know if its a special edition myself......
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    wait I don't understand your clutch trick "94GSRzoom" are you saying if you try to put it into 5th @35mph and it doesn't go in, than the clutch is going out.. you said: " If the engine revs, but the car dosen't move, then the clutch is going out soon." Please be more specific, and I'm assuming you mean all honda/acuras of this age.
  • gsracer05gsracer05 Posts: 2
    Hey guys i just recently bought a 95 Acura Integra GS-R but im not sure its a "real GS-R" also it has no leather did any of the models come without leather??my car came in black it has a sunroof and its sitting on 4 hubcap rims without the hubcaps with toyo tires it has the Vtech and the RPM guage does read 9000 RPM and Redlines at 8100?? and when i bought the car it was at a car auction and the screen read GS-R But no rims and leather i can understand the rims being gone but not so sure about the interior ?? the back silver patch neither reads special edition or Vtech because the car has been in an accident and i can understand the patch not being there the car was hit in the rear right quartel panel and has been fixed the car is in like 80 percent great condition with few minor scratches and paint blemish and minor door dings and i purchased the car for 3500 total.....with 156 thousand miles ??wat do u guys think?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    GS-Rs came with standard cloth up thru '97, although most were sold with the optional leather. ALL GS-Rs had a moonroof and alloys though. It sounds like you have the real deal, with the 8100 rpm redline. Regular 1.8s redlined somewhere below 7000 rpm, I forget the exact rpm.

    Look at your registration for the VIN series if you want to be sure. GS-Rs in 1995 were DB858 for the sedans, and DC238 for the hatches. So look for either 'DB' or 'DC' in your VIN (it should be around the fifth place in the VIN) then look for the digit that follows the letters. If it is an 8 or a 2, you have a GS-R. If it is a 7 or a 4, you don't.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • one more question fellas. i just bought the car ('93 integra 4-door), and dont get me wrong, i love the car, the motor pulls strong, doesnt burn any oil, and on top of that its a quick lil thing! my only problem is my engine is begging for me to let it breathe and give it vtec (lol) my question is how much do the common swaps cost? i was lookin into the 89-92 b16 swap (cause its a stock swap, no mods) but then i thought the ls/vtec would be cheaper since i already have the block. can sum1 who has had both swaps done let me know what kind of cash ill be spendin? thanx again guys
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