Two weeks ago a rattle started in my engine. When I am driving at 1700-1900 rpms and 2900-3200 rpms there is a loud rattling coming from the engine. It sounds like a rock boucing around. This began suddenly without any previous signs. There is no loss of power or performance only a loud rattling noise. There are no strange emissions and the gas mileage has reamained the same. Does anyone have any suggestions? This began right after the gasoline change over. Does anyone think that this could have any effect? I am confused because I am not an agressive driver. Thanks for any response.
probably a loose or broken exhaust heat shield. Look up near the exhaust manifold first. You can usually just pry it away some, then drive it to see what happens. Hopefully, you will find this new noise is gone.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Hey y'all... Recently bought a '92 LS AT w/150K. It needed CV's (which it sounds like some folks are paying *way* too much for-- my mech did both for $260) and a muffler assembly (which I did myself). Next in line is a timing belt and water pump, just because there are no maint records (FWIW my mech quoted me $240 for the belt, not counting the pump). But, it's obviously been *very* well maintained. Aside from the axles and muffler (and baked clearcoat-- hope to be able to paint it before too long) I've tried real hard to find *anything* else wrong with this thing (knock on wood). So far, not even a burnt bulb. Doesn't use a drop of oil (and the oil's still clear after almost a month and 1500 miles; it was changed the day after I got the car). AT shifts smooth as butter. AC blows cold as ice. Rolls straight, brakes smooth. The moonroof let in a few drops of H20 in the car wash, but reaming out the drains seemed to fix that. No taillight/trunk leaks or whatever. The interior looks like it might be a year or two old, and even the freakin' cruise control works.
Here's the deal. My beloved '89 RS AT, bought new at the time, got totaled in 1996. I've always hoped to get another early Integra, and finding this one for $900 last month has been the highlight of my year so far. I'm determined to take this little car to 300K. So, after the t-belt and water pump, any thoughts on what I should have done next as preventative maintenance, since prior maint records aren't available? I'd much rather be proactive on keeping the car, motor, and trans fit, than have something sneak up. Trans fluid/filter? (Fluid's bright red, no burnt smell). Other ideas?
Counting the axles and muffler I've got about $1300 total in this car so far. I have no problem spending $1K or so a year over the next few to keep it on the road; I'd just rather not get hit with a motor or tranny all at once. It gets twice the mileage of the SUV I was driving exclusively before (and which is now parked except when work demands the cargo space) so it'll easily pay for the routine stuff. I'm also considering going to full synthetic oil; the extra cost isn't an issue and from everything I read, synth is just plain purer than *any* refined oil.
Any and all thoughts welcome and appreciated. Tanks in advance.
Yes, if there are no records, do the auto trans, and do the t-belt and water pump, making sure to do the camshaft seals at the same time. Those silly Honda water pumps can create such havoc when they go. After that, enjoy! :-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
:shades: Trying to re-vive my grandmom's car. 1989 Acura 3-door hatchback. The hatch is extremely heavy and will barely lift. I think the hydraulics are broken? Does someone know what is involved in getting the hatch to work - do I have to replace a liquid hydraulic or something or a part? Thank you!! RustyArt
Yeah, you can replace the struts that hold up the hatch - they are the tubular things at the left and right. They will be less than $100 for the pair at the auto parts store, double that if you go to the Acura dealer. They just bolt on to the metal at top and bottom - you can replace them yourself, or a mechanic will do it for cheap.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The inside of my 1989 Integra LS is kind of a faded blue, but the exterior is white. Does anyone know if this was an original color combination? Or where I can find a listing of original colors? Thanks! :shades:
Main relay is located under the dash. Do a search on e-bay (for a 91 integra main relay). This way you will have a general idea what it looks like. Its a small box about 2" x 2" and it has a coner over it. should be somplace near the steering cloumn.
I have a 91 integra sedan LS and it is getting time to replace the car but I can't find one that I like. Any suggestions to a comparable car? I test drove a MINI (just not the same) and a BMW 330i (that would work but too expensive).
My 91 has been totaled due to the fact that body work from a fender bender cost more than the insurance company said the car was worth. I had the body work done and kept the extra cash from the insurance company. That is still one fine car but I am getting hesitant to drive it on long trips because I am no mechanic and would hate to get stuck somewhere on the road.
I love the way the car handles, the way it fits me just right, the way it corners, and in general I love my car. I just need a new reliable car. Mine only has 140k or 150k miles and I suspect that if it does break it will be something minor.
I have kept "my baby" well maintained and have a great mechanic - Paul at hondura in Irving, TX.
So are there any similar cars out there today that would perform as well as my 91 integra? It still can get over 30m/g on the highway with the wind at my back and I love the good gas mileage that my car still gets even in town. When it was new I once got 42m/g on the highway with the help of the wind at my back.
I forgot to add that I need an automatic transmission because of all the traffic and bad drivers in my area. What was the last year they made a true integra that feels like the 91 integras?
I have a 90 integra Hatchback LS with 290K and It still gets 34 m/g on the Highway. Replaced timing belt and water pump for the third time last year. I looked around and could not find anything that is comparable in performance, gas mileage, and trouble free. Let me know if you can find one. I will keep driving it until the engine or transmission break down or, knock on woods, total by the insurance if I get hit by someone.
I have a 91 acura integra that I recently bought.. I had it checked by a mechanic before I bought it, and basically he said it was fine besides the cv boots. However, I recently brought it to another mechanic who said the rear transmission seal is loose, and the car has 6-12 months left before it dies, and it will cost atleast 1000 to fix it. I guess I have to get a 3rd opinion now, but does anyone know how much it costs to fix a transmission seal?
Hi. excuse me to highjacking this tread, but I didn't find any other way of posting my question: I have an 96 acura integra. where do I look in the car to see what type my acura is? type R, type SL, etc, etc... thanks for your time, and sorry for the HJ
Price $9,500 Body Style Hatchback Mileage 92,000 Interior Color Black Engine 4 Cylinder Gasoline Transmission Manual Drive Type 2 wheel drive - front Fuel Type Gasoline Doors Two Door VIN JH4DC2390YS003011 2000 ACURA INTEGRA, 92K mi, GSR in excellent condition, loaded, all maintenance completed, everything works great. , PLEASE MAKE OFFER!248-915-0151, $9,500, 219-983-2138
Price $9,500 Body Style Hatchback Mileage 92,000 Interior Color Black Engine 4 Cylinder Gasoline Transmission Manual Drive Type 2 wheel drive - front Fuel Type Gasoline Doors Two Door VIN JH4DC2390YS003011 2000 ACURA INTEGRA, 92K mi, GSR in excellent condition, loaded, all maintenance completed, everything works great. , PLEASE MAKE OFFER!248-915-0151, $9,500, 219-983-2138
my integra runs good but every once in a while it will overheat, and it only does it when it is sitting still if i put it in neutral and rev it up just a lil bit it will go back down and it doesnt always do it.it is fine on the highway,it has anitfreeze in it.any ideas or typical things for this car it could be.
Hi guys...I'm new here...just found you today cus last night my 93 acura integra left me stranded for the 1st time ever. It had been acting up lately. I noticed that my lights flickerd on & off [non-permissible content removed] I drove & my hazards & brights said they were on when they weren't flickering on & off on the dash.....as this happens....my baby wants to sputter & stall. I'm thinking lose connection somewhere cus it wants to start when I shake the steering wheel hard...rocking the whole car. Does anyone here know what this might be.....can anyone help me to try to figure this out???
Answer is, you don't look anywhere in the car, because it won't tell you the trim directly.
That year, there were an RS, LS, Special Edition, and GS-R. Below the right taillight, there was a little badge that said "Special Edition" if that is what yours is. The GS-R has a little badge in the same spot that says "VTEC".
The RS is the base model: no sunroof, and plastic wheel covers. The LS is in between. Could still have plastic wheels, but will have the moonroof, and might have alloys.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The OEM radio in my 94 LS Integra has been going on and off (more off than on). The radio unit itself turns on fine, but the sound disappears. I figure there's a loose connection between it and the speakers.
How do I take out the radio unit to either make sure the wires in the back are connected tight or to replace with a new cd unit? Do I have to remove the whole plastic dash cover??
Hello guys, I have an acura integra gsr. I observed that when I open my the sunroof, the car seems to be running smoother, especially at higher speeds. Has somebody else felt this too or am I smoking crack?
There are many ways to find out what kind of Integra you have, however it seems you do not know much about our cars, so I'll give you the easiest way.
Just go to CarFax.com and put your VIN into their VIN search. You can find your VIN in the driver side door, driver side of the windshield, and in your engine bay.
Hi, I need some help in determing if $10,500 if a fair price for the following car:
1999 Acura Integra Manual 65k miles Excellent condition
My 18 yr old brother wants this car, but I'm a little worried because the private seller is firm on selling it for $10,500. BB value for private party puts the car at $8500 to $9500.
First of all, you won't be able to put an appropriate price on the car unless you know what kind of Integra it is.
Is it an LS, GS, or GSR? Get the VIN from the car and post it, and we'll determine what kind of Integra it is. Get your brother to go to the car and write the VIN down, which can be found on the driver-side of the windshield, in the engine bay, or inside the driver-side door.
Has the car been modified at all with aftermarket parts? If so, what kind of parts? Is it a clean title, meaning no salvage title or any accidents? Have all of the scheduled services been done? How many owners has it had, and who is the current owner (age, gender)? This may seem trivial (age and gender of owners), however it isn't. If a young kid owns it now, chances are the car has been ran a lot harder than if a 65 year-old grandmother ownded it.
Basically, the price is determined by a lot of things. You must do your research to determine if the appropriate value is being applied.
Have your brother ask the questions I've put down for you and post that information. Make sure to record the VIN and post it as well even after the owner answers all the questions for you.
I have a 91 Acura Integra GS (automatic). When I drive my car on cold days, I will pull into a parking spot and shift the car into Park. However, on the gear indicator on the dashboard, where it says P R N D etc, it doesn't light up to Park even though I have shifted it into Park. At this point, I cannot turn the car off; it is almost as if the car is in "limbo" between Drive and Park. Eventually, it will "click" and then light up on the dashboard, and then I can shut off the car. Sometimes this is 4-5 minutes and can be a real hassle. I have taken it to a mechanic, who could find nothing wrong with the car. Any help would be appreciated.
Last night my car died. The engine is making some serious noises now. Sounds like a rod. I ran out of coolant, so I am pretty sure that is what caused the problem. Can I fix this and what would the cost be? Do I need to replace the engine? Any advice would be great. Thanks
It's nice to find people who know what I am talking about. I have a '91 LS Integra with 225,600 miles on it and I love it! I have had it since new and cared for it over the years. It has been pretty much trouble free. I have looked at everything imaginable and I simply cannot find anything as solid and as fun to drive as far as that visceral car/body connection (for lack of a better term). You all know what I am talking about! My plan too was to drive it until engine or transmission break down. Well the day has arrived. . .blown head gasket. We patched it with a metallic sealant treatment but who knows how long that will last. The little car runs and it is hanging in there but it is not the same. Who knows how long it will last without further work. Has anyone found ANY car out there that will satisfy the Integra owners from the early '90s??!! :confuse: What a great little car! I still am pleased with the decision/purchase I made almost 15 years ago. I just can't find a thing to replace it!!
I have a 1994 Acura Integra LS automatic with 165k miles. I had a valve adjustment done on the car. Immediately after the work was done and since that time the car has had poor gas mileage, a very rough idle, and loss of power. I had abolutely none of those problems before the adjustment. Before I take it back into the shop I would like to know if a bad valve adjustment could be the source of these problems and how it should be remedied. Also, are there any long-term risks associated with a bad valve adjustment?
yes, absolutely. And I would be cautious about driving it if I were you. Any valve adjustment that was so bad as to cause the car to behave that way (I am assuming that behavior began as soon as you drove it away from the shop), could be bad enough that you will do damage to the valvetrain. Valves that are just a bit out of adjustment can eventually damage the valves themselves, yes, or cause them to burn up, requiring replacement.
Note that all of your symptoms could be caused by something completely different too, related to the EFI. Like a sensor wire that got knocked off or removed and not replaced after the mechanic was done. So it may not be the valve adjustment causing the problem at all, but rather something else that got done at the same time the mechanic was under the hood.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I know what you're talking about. Until now (see my previous post) I've had relatively minor problems (1994 Integra LS with 165k miles). All I've really done was change the oil and do regular maintenance. It'll be a sad day when it dies. In 2003 I bought a Mazda 6i. It has been a great car and I hope that it runs as good and as long as my Integra has as it has spoiled me when it came to so little repairs.
I bought a 97 LS 3 door MT last year, mint condition, 65k, and have not regretted getting it over a 2000 Eclipse GT, even though the torgue difference was staggering.
Get a Carfax. If it's got a problem, you'll find red flags there.
If it's in good shape, you've got an attractive, efficient, fun to drive car that should be trouble free.
I'm getting close to 30 MPG, and I'm rarely in the slow lane.
my 92 integra has recently become possessed. the front parking lights stay on anytime the car is running and both the left and right upper (corner lights) turn signals blink when the left turn signal is activated. The right turn signal appears to operate normally. What might be the problem? I've checked fuses and bulbs but am not sure how to diagnose the problem beyond that without taking it to the shop.
well i finally fixed trhe problem...it actually wqas the dirstibutor... a friend of my brothers owns a garage shop and happened to have a 93 integra that was trashed...the distributor was good so we replaced it and the car is working great...thanks for all your feedback...
I just test drove a mazda 3 s sedan. I have been looking for a replacement for my beloved 91 acura integra LS sedan and I think I might have found it in the Mazda. Anyone have a Mazda 3 s? How do you think it compares to the integra?
I co-worker drives a Mazda3 and loves it. I am the original owner of a 92 Integra LS 4dr.5spd with 300,000km. I too have been looking since 2004 for a replacement - but I'm still loving this one. My problem is a bit of body rust. Cars I've looked at: Mazda RX-8, Acura TSX, Honda Civic Si, Lexus IS250. I'd like to drive this one till it drops - but I've been fixing all problems so far - just changed my alternator the other day - still have my original clutch!
hey my sister is getting a car and she wawnts an integra...(ok maybe she's making a mistake I dont know I'm still driving a diferent car so I cant tell her) she however wants a car with rear wheel drive. yeha I think that the integra is front wheel drive I'm not sure however. which is why I'm actually asking people who own them...what kind of drive train do they have? AWD, FWD, or RWD? man i looked it up on the net and I can enver get a straight answer...anyway I need some help...ok my sister needs help...so please help your fellow dude
never mind dudes I just looked it up on wikipedia...darn i was hoping to try and race it...oh well I'll just convert it for her...what I know how! and it wont cost me much...just enough time off my job...anyway peace out!
i been looking at a few integra's lately and i was wondering about their life span? like how long the engine last and mainly the transmission. i seen a few i like now and just was wondering.
I too own a 92 Integra, RS 2 dr 5 spd with 271,000. Orig clutch replaced around 189,000. My problem is motor is getting 'old' per Honda service. A local mechanic is looking for me to sell it to him. I now want awd or 4wd on a similar vehicle. Closest I came so far is the new Volkswagon GTI, but it does not have awd. May settle on Saab 9-2x or Subura Impreza wagon. Wanted to try Jeep Compass. Mazda CX7 also has same feel, but gas mileage not the same. MOst people probably think I'm crazy, but it is a very hard car to find another one like. I am almost tempted to get a 99 on sale locally with 25K and live with snow tires. I am in the northeast and we get a lot of ice snow and I live in a hilly area. What about the RDX?
could be just the ticket, but you KNOW there is nothing out there, including the RDX, that will be close to your Integra. :-)
What does "getting old" mean, exactly? Couldn't you just keep it until the first big repair comes along?
If you're thinking of spending CX7/9-2x money, what about a GTI R32? That's AWD, and a real hoot to drive from what I hear. There isn't a new one available right now, but there are slightly used ones all over the place. They would still be under manufacturer warranty.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
i have a 1991 integra gs with a B16a1 swapped in (del sol vtec motor) with the ys1 tranny (also del sol tranny) and im trying to order new bushings for my clutch....im pretty sure im sounding stupid but do i need to order bushings for an integra or the del sol???? please help so i can order the bushings asap thanks!!
I have a 1990 Integra GS, AT with 180,000 miles on it. I hear what sounds like a snapping noice (sounds like the valve) from the engine when it idles cold. But as soon as I drive it for about a minute and the engine heats up, the sound disappears completely. I am a bit worried if it is a major problem or if it is a common problem with high mileage integras of this age! Could somebody comment on this please! Thanks
Nippononly, Thanks for the advice you gave me regarding my 2000 Integra. You were correct. My heat shield was broken off on one of the corners resulting in a an extremely loud rattling. The loud rattling is gone. Thanks for you help it's very appreciated.
hi to all of the loyal honda fans...i'm one of them as well but it seems i have a problem....yeah i know don't we all...ok so if anyone can help please just e-mail me at jmkhondafreaks@yahoo.com my wife owns a 1995 integra ls....it keeps overheating ...replaced thermastat. temp.sending unit and cooling fan...runs great but needle keeps going to 3/4 way up hold for awhile then goes back down..fluid gets into reservoir..usually almost full..no water in oil though...one day it does great next day it is crappy..if anyone has any kind of suggestions ..i know that will be greatly appreciated ..thankx a lot
OK PEOPLE ...can someone help me please with my wifes car ??? i'v tried to figure it ou but nothing i am doig seems to be helping it out... i've replaced the themostat, temp. sending unit, cooling fan motor. what is happenning is the needle will go up to 3/4 way up , hold there for a few min. then go back down. get home and over half of the reservoir will be filled up. someone said cracked head..... but no water is in the oil.. someone else said water pump.. but doesn't a water pump that is normally bad leak ?? there are no leaking of fluid anywhere that is noticable.. it'll idle all day and never overheat only does it normally when your driving but occasionally over heat while sitting.. this is her dream car and i finally found one for her she has wanted one since we got married...almost 3 yrs. ago since she first laid eyes on my prelude she has been hooked by the tuner world .. and it really breaks my heart for her car to just be sitting here and her not being able to drive it...even my 22 mnth. old daughter loves the sound of a flow through muffler on the hond motor ...so if any out there can help please help.. and if you wouldn't mind e-mail me at jmkhondafreaks@yahoo.com this is my first time in here and not sure how i would get back to see if anyone has helped.. so if you can help please help...thank you from 3 most loyal honda fans around. thank you again
One of the rocker arms is going. The air no longer works and Honda told me it could be electrical...they said drive it until it doesn't go...but don't put any more money into it...not even a muffler. I need to do another oil change...most have been at Acura/Honda. I did have one Acura salesman ask how much I had been advised to fix....but you see...The mechanic I spoke with wants to put another engine into it...I need the AWD for some serious winter driving this year...but would keep the Integra as a second car if possible...means tires, etc...I'm also a pack rate and am having a hard time just giving it up after 14 years of excellent service. I get a discount on the CX7 (invice price) and the 9-2x is going now for $5K off...it's still just an Impreza 2.5...maybe the Aero would be better..but then I will lose the gas mileage. Thank you for all your suggestions...I wil research the R32...maybe an A3??? but I don't want to go into the high 20's. I also looked at the Toyota RAV4...
Comments
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Here's the deal. My beloved '89 RS AT, bought new at the time, got totaled in 1996. I've always hoped to get another early Integra, and finding this one for $900 last month has been the highlight of my year so far. I'm determined to take this little car to 300K. So, after the t-belt and water pump, any thoughts on what I should have done next as preventative maintenance, since prior maint records aren't available? I'd much rather be proactive on keeping the car, motor, and trans fit, than have something sneak up. Trans fluid/filter? (Fluid's bright red, no burnt smell). Other ideas?
Counting the axles and muffler I've got about $1300 total in this car so far. I have no problem spending $1K or so a year over the next few to keep it on the road; I'd just rather not get hit with a motor or tranny all at once. It gets twice the mileage of the SUV I was driving exclusively before (and which is now parked except when work demands the cargo space) so it'll easily pay for the routine stuff. I'm also considering going to full synthetic oil; the extra cost isn't an issue and from everything I read, synth is just plain purer than *any* refined oil.
Any and all thoughts welcome and appreciated. Tanks in advance.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My 91 has been totaled due to the fact that body work from a fender bender cost more than the insurance company said the car was worth. I had the body work done and kept the extra cash from the insurance company. That is still one fine car but I am getting hesitant to drive it on long trips because I am no mechanic and would hate to get stuck somewhere on the road.
I love the way the car handles, the way it fits me just right, the way it corners, and in general I love my car. I just need a new reliable car. Mine only has 140k or 150k miles and I suspect that if it does break it will be something minor.
I have kept "my baby" well maintained and have a great mechanic - Paul at hondura in Irving, TX.
So are there any similar cars out there today that would perform as well as my 91 integra? It still can get over 30m/g on the highway with the wind at my back and I love the good gas mileage that my car still gets even in town. When it was new I once got 42m/g on the highway with the help of the wind at my back.
However, I recently brought it to another mechanic who said the rear transmission seal is loose, and the car has 6-12 months left before it dies, and it will cost atleast 1000 to fix it. I guess I have to get a 3rd opinion now, but does anyone know how much it costs to fix a transmission seal?
I have an 96 acura integra. where do I look in the car to see what type my acura is? type R, type SL, etc, etc...
thanks for your time, and sorry for the HJ
stef.
Price $9,500
Body Style Hatchback
Mileage 92,000
Interior Color Black
Engine 4 Cylinder Gasoline
Transmission Manual
Drive Type 2 wheel drive - front
Fuel Type Gasoline
Doors Two Door
VIN JH4DC2390YS003011
2000 ACURA INTEGRA, 92K mi, GSR in excellent condition, loaded, all maintenance completed, everything works great. , PLEASE MAKE OFFER!248-915-0151, $9,500, 219-983-2138
Price $9,500
Body Style Hatchback
Mileage 92,000
Interior Color Black
Engine 4 Cylinder Gasoline
Transmission Manual
Drive Type 2 wheel drive - front
Fuel Type Gasoline
Doors Two Door
VIN JH4DC2390YS003011
2000 ACURA INTEGRA, 92K mi, GSR in excellent condition, loaded, all maintenance completed, everything works great. , PLEASE MAKE OFFER!248-915-0151, $9,500, 219-983-2138
thanx
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
That year, there were an RS, LS, Special Edition, and GS-R. Below the right taillight, there was a little badge that said "Special Edition" if that is what yours is. The GS-R has a little badge in the same spot that says "VTEC".
The RS is the base model: no sunroof, and plastic wheel covers. The LS is in between. Could still have plastic wheels, but will have the moonroof, and might have alloys.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
How do I take out the radio unit to either make sure the wires in the back are connected tight or to replace with a new cd unit? Do I have to remove the whole plastic dash cover??
I have an acura integra gsr. I observed that when I open my the sunroof, the car seems to be running smoother, especially at higher speeds. Has somebody else felt this too or am I smoking crack?
Just go to CarFax.com and put your VIN into their VIN search. You can find your VIN in the driver side door, driver side of the windshield, and in your engine bay.
1999 Acura Integra
Manual
65k miles
Excellent condition
My 18 yr old brother wants this car, but I'm a little worried because the private seller is firm on selling it for $10,500. BB value for private party puts the car at $8500 to $9500.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Is it an LS, GS, or GSR? Get the VIN from the car and post it, and we'll determine what kind of Integra it is. Get your brother to go to the car and write the VIN down, which can be found on the driver-side of the windshield, in the engine bay, or inside the driver-side door.
Has the car been modified at all with aftermarket parts? If so, what kind of parts? Is it a clean title, meaning no salvage title or any accidents? Have all of the scheduled services been done? How many owners has it had, and who is the current owner (age, gender)? This may seem trivial (age and gender of owners), however it isn't. If a young kid owns it now, chances are the car has been ran a lot harder than if a 65 year-old grandmother ownded it.
Basically, the price is determined by a lot of things. You must do your research to determine if the appropriate value is being applied.
Have your brother ask the questions I've put down for you and post that information. Make sure to record the VIN and post it as well even after the owner answers all the questions for you.
Note that all of your symptoms could be caused by something completely different too, related to the EFI. Like a sensor wire that got knocked off or removed and not replaced after the mechanic was done. So it may not be the valve adjustment causing the problem at all, but rather something else that got done at the same time the mechanic was under the hood.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Get a Carfax. If it's got a problem, you'll find red flags there.
If it's in good shape, you've got an attractive, efficient, fun to drive car that should be trouble free.
I'm getting close to 30 MPG, and I'm rarely in the slow lane.
DrFill
I am the original owner of a 92 Integra LS 4dr.5spd with 300,000km. I too have been looking since 2004 for a replacement - but I'm still loving this one. My problem is a bit of body rust. Cars I've looked at: Mazda RX-8, Acura TSX, Honda Civic Si, Lexus IS250.
I'd like to drive this one till it drops - but I've been fixing all problems so far - just changed my alternator the other day - still have my original clutch!
thank you
What does "getting old" mean, exactly? Couldn't you just keep it until the first big repair comes along?
If you're thinking of spending CX7/9-2x money, what about a GTI R32? That's AWD, and a real hoot to drive from what I hear. There isn't a new one available right now, but there are slightly used ones all over the place. They would still be under manufacturer warranty.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Could somebody comment on this please!
Thanks
Thanks for the advice you gave me regarding my 2000 Integra. You were correct. My heat shield was broken off on one of the corners resulting in a an extremely loud rattling. The loud rattling is gone. Thanks for you help it's very appreciated.