Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Subaru Legacy/Outback



  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    jimw11: I used to have a bunch of pictures showing this procedure posted on Photopoint. I still have the pictures and could email them to you if you contact me at the address in my profile.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    * insert CD
    * turn volume knob clockwise until the wind noise is imperceptible


  • dukephotodukephoto Posts: 49

    Who told you my trick for wind noise?
    Macintosh+Volume=No Wind Noise!!!!!

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Actually we listen to "Best of Elmo" so I usually hope the wind noise drowns out the stereo! ;-)

  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Juice - :-o LOL

    We've moved on to "The Powerpuff Girls" (love Mojo Jojo). At least it beats the purple dinosaur.

  • ffsteveffsteve Posts: 243
    Brian (goosegog),

    I have photos posted on the replacement of cabin filters that I snagged from a Photopoint album posted here some time ago. I knew I would need them someday and, fearing they might disappear, copied them.

    A few months ago someone else posted asking for them, so I put them up on my pbase account.

    Are you the original photographer? If so, please accept my apologies, and my offer to continue posting them for you. (cut and paste)

  • I would only put a factory alarm in - because it does not go off in the parking lot all by itself like ,ost (all) aftermarket alarms, but still has an ignition cut off, and insurance discount. Mine was factory installed but the instructions are easy and all the plugs are already there. see:

    For stereos I really like eclipse (by fujitsu), they are not too flashy, are easy to learn and they have a security code or CD, so that you never have to remove an face plates, but still makes the head unit inoperatable if removed. ·but the new MP3 cd units have a nice advantage: 10 hours per disc capacity! (which bruce album do you want to hear next?) (or you can have power puff girls, sponge bob, telletubbies, and the purple dinasour on 1 disc! - for those parents)

    good luck

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I guess I'll look forward to that stage. ;-)

  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    Yes Steve, they are my pix. You're welcome, and it saves me the bother of reposting them somewhere else, although I might do that anyway eventually if I get the urge.
  • I purchased a used 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback 36,000 miles ago. Shortly after purchasing it I noticed a vibration only when breaking between 45 and 35 mph. At the dealers suggestion I've had the disks turned more than once, pads replaced, and finally all for disk replaced. The vibration improves a bit after each procedure, but always returns to the same level as before. If it's normal for the vehicle then the dealer is taking me to the cleaners. I also the car aligned and purchased new tires to see if that would help. The Subaru mfg rep can only suggest turning the disks again. Anyone else solved a similar problem.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Are they overtorqueing the lug nuts when they install the wheels?

    The hardware can't be causing repeated problems like that. They must be doing something wrong.

  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Posts: 464
    Has anyone installed this themselves? I'm curious as to how delicate this install is going to be -- if there's a good chance I'll screw my car up doing it, I may let the pros do it. had them on clearance for around $100 and I couldn't pass it up. The directions look pretty straight forward, but I just wanted "real world" exprience. Any input would be appreciated! Thanks,
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    One person on these threads ended up with a dent in the sheet metal, though I can't remember if it was DIY or dealer-installed.. I do think you have to drill into the metal, so there is some risk.

  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Posts: 464
    Those sheetmetal dents are what I'm worried about -- the instructions indicate that (4) 1/8 inch holes must be drilled (after using a SHARP center punch to mark the areas). It warns that if a dull center punch is used, you could dent the panel...that's what worries's really a simple install from the looks of it, but I don't like the prospect of denting the metal. Hmmm...I may drop by a body shop to see how much they might charge to do it.
  • rob999rob999 Posts: 233
    I had my spoiler added by the dealer and ended up with dents (probably only noticeable by me) but they're definitely there. Sharp punch or dull, it's probably going to dent the panel when you pound on the punch. Even if you're careful when you make your punch mark, there's still a chance of adding dents if you put too much downward pressure on the drill while it's cutting thru the sheetmetal.

    Suggestion: place masking tape over where the holes are to be located. Mark the hole locations on the tape. If your drill bits are worn, splurge on a single high-quality bit. Having a good sharp bit would be critical, as you don't want to have to bear down to cut the sheetmetal. Use a variable speed drill so you can start the hole very slowly to prevent the bit from wandering. (You could even start with smaller pilot holes - smaller bits wander less). Follow these steps and you'll do a better job than the jamoke who installed my spoiler.
  • peterson10peterson10 Posts: 116
    I can be an idiot at times, but I can speak with a bit of confidence on this subject! I installed the grab bar and rear deflector on my OB and it was fairly routine. "Routine" means of course that the templates and instructions were either inaccurate or incomplete. If you have questions about the grab bar just ask, but with respect to the spoiler, I'll assume it mounts more-or-less like the deflector. So, you will probably need a "threaded insert tool", which may - right there - cause you to give up. You MAY be able to borrow one, or you can buy one at a good auto parts store for about $75, or you can order a cheapo/perfectly functional one from Harbor Freight Tools for about $10. I would do my drilling with split-point drills, or better yet, a Unibit (fairly inexpensive at any hardware store). I agree, use a variable speed drill. A sharp automatic center punch (set low) works fine to mark the point where you will drill, just don't make it deeper than necessary. "Dry fit" everything each step of the way. Finally, use a high quality silicone sealant around every exposed metal surface before you put it all together. Piece of cake (fruit cake, with plenty of nuts): took me about 45 minutes.

    Funny thing, once you drill through the skin of your OB (successfully), you feel, for better or worse, that its really, truly YOUR car.

    Enjoy the anxiety,
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Posts: 464
    I appreciate the suggestions...I'll take a look at the spoiler when it comes and decide if I'm up to the task.
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Does anyone know if Subaru sells the Titanium Pearl paint (for the lower portion of the OB) in a spray? I still need to paint the front tow hook bumper cover (FTHBC?) and thought I might be able to DIY.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I doubt it. I bought a touch-up can of the stuff for my dad.

    According to Pat, body shop supply places can put any color in a spray can for you, though. There is a color code in your door jamb they can use to get factory specs to mix it right.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You can buy spray paint to match your car at a local body shop perhaps? I know we have a place here in NY that sells spray paint for any make, model year you want. It comes in a can and you buy a spraying device that has compressed gas in them to spray with. My dad bought some years ago when he did some body work on our cars.

  • ffsteveffsteve Posts: 243
    Brian, good to finally know the photographer of the pics. I have credited you in the blurb on the picture page. Good job!

    For anyone else, once again, please see Goose's pictures showing the replacement of the Outback cabin filters I have posted at the address below. I found them to be well done, and very useful in performing the replacement, and think you will too.

  • wired1wired1 Posts: 45

    I have been enjoying the education and comradarie of this board in preparation for purchasing my first Subaru....looking towards an Outback (either a Limited or Bean).

    I note mention of a board for the "Subaru Crew" this accessible thru Edmund's? Does anyone have a link? My thanks in advance.

  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    look for the Subaru Crew Owner's Club link at the top of the page or here: /direct/view/.eea1a91


  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    I was counting pennies, so had to go with a base OB wagon. Assuming we ever get snow again, you will be glad you bought it! Take the plunge...

  • wired1wired1 Posts: 45
    found the Subaru Crew boards...thanks folks
  • storytellerstoryteller Posts: 476
    Tom: Welcome to these boards! I've just read your profile. We're always happy to see someone upgrade from a Mercedes to a Subie. ;-)
  • ... how accurate is the Edmunds TMV? It puts the TMV of a 2000 OB Ltd. Sedan at around $18k private party, even though the thing retailed for around $28k originally. Also, I noticed it said "no options" available for the model, but the one we're about to buy for dad has a rear spoiler, security system, and premium sound (among other options). Is the Edmunds staff on crack or what? BTW - I did read the article on the site about Edmunds TMV vs. Kelly Blue Book.
  • Hi all, I just purchased a 2000 Legacy L wagon used from a dealer. It has 19000 miles on it and is making a grinding/pulsing sound under moderate to hard braking. The dealer is supposed to check it out and fix it next week but I wanted to see if anyone else had this problem. Also, I wanted to get a full front cover (bra) for this car. One dealer parts department told me they aren't available anymore because they cause some sort of airflow problems. They are available online though. Any experience with this item? Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, my dad bought a 2001 for $25k plus tax. The 2003 models are about to come out, so it's almost 3 years old. My rule of thumb is this, you lose 10% of the value immediately, then 10% more each year. So it should be worth 40% less than the original price, or $15,000.

    So, $18k is solid resale.

    Edmunds may consider those accessories instead of options?

Sign In or Register to comment.