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Comments
The steering wheel would start shaking at around 65 mph. The dealer re-balanced the tires before my second test drive of the Outback and the shaking problem was corrected.
Neil
(expandable to 4 bikes) that fits a 1 1/4 " hitch, the 999Q B.A.T. Rack. I haven't decided which one I'll get yet. An advantage of the SARIS is that I won't need to use a crossbar adaptor to load a woman's bike on the rack. I decided against getting a rack designed for a 2" hitch and using an adaptor because I was told that using the adaptor will cause some sway when the bikes are loaded.
Neil
I have discovered, after being attacked by the dust and stone spray of an 18 wheeler on the highway, many fine pits and scratches on the windshield.
Is there any way to fill or otherwise remove these?
Not only a cosmetic eyesore, but when the sun shines on the window, it does impede visibility.
Any input would be great.
Thanks.
I wanted to thank everyone for the "balance your tires" recommendation. I just had them done and it is smooth sailing on the highway!
I purchased my 2001 Subaru last week and they did not include a maintenance manual. I have requested one but wanted to get an understading of the following from everyone. I drive about 24,000 highway miles/yr.
- Oil changes- how often?
- Tire rotation- how often?
- Tune-ups?
Thanks as usual!
-Michael
If you do a lot of city driving, short trips, or lots of idling, I'd cut the intervals in half.
-juice
If not, there's one online at http://www.my.subaru.com
Steve, Host
tidester, host
Jon
They didn't ask for proof of ownership; in fact, I joined Mysubaru.com before I paid for and registered the Outback.
Steve, Host
-mike
Anyway, I checked.
3.0l & Turbo replace @ 60k and 120k miles
Sparkplug replacement @ 30k is for all others.
-Dave
-juice
Mike
02 obw 4eat
Hmm, I'll have to listen a little harder for piston slap, I could use that warranty! LOL
-juice
Steve
I'm considering an Outback and am hoping someone can help me with a question. I live in DC and park on the street. People are always bumping my bumpers when they park, which can really scratch the bumpers. Is the bumber paint durable? Is it a thin layer...Does the core bumper material match the paint? I'm not sure what to buy. I don't want an SUV, but I want something that will hold up to urban warfare.
Some call it a wagon, others call it an SUV. It's a car per every federal agency and meets all car standards (it has to).
The unpainted bumpers are like teflon. They take abuse and keep looking good. You don't have to wax them, either, so no getting on your hands and knees to wash or wax the painted cladding. Just hose it off, that's all it takes.
Drive one to see if you like it, it's very low maintenance. I wish more Subies had unpainted cladding like that.
-juice
Jon
Greg
Pics of bumper moulding [on dearly departed].
-Dave
IdahoDoug
Cheers,
-wdb
-juice
Here is a good reference if you care about what fender bender will cause in terms of damage:
http://www.highwaysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/low_speed.htm
Forester is best in class, and the best Subie.
-juice
http://www.jdpower.com/news/releases/pressrelease.asp?ID=2003050
Subaru falls above the industry average in overall problems during the first three years, but isn't as close to the top as you might think. The good news is that they have the smallest decline in quality from their initial level measured at 90 days after purchase, meaning that any bugs tend to get worked out and fixed early (under warranty).
The Euros, as a group, showed a steady decline, with the exceptions of Porsche, Saab, Jaguar and BMW. Surprisingly (at least to me) was that Buick came in #3 as a brand behind the well-known reliability stalwarts Lexus and Infiniti
Also, Buick builds what their market segment wants, 4-wheeled pillows. So, if that's what their customer wants, and they build it, don't expect them to complain.
Bob
I own a 2000 Outback Ltd Wagon. I've driven almost 50k on the original tires (Firestone Wilderness) and need to replace them. Any experiences to share as to what are good replacements? I live in Northern California, drive quite a few highway miles, encounter snow on about 5-8 annual trips to the mountains. I drive the occassional gravel/dirt road to get to trailheads, etc. I would prefer a tire that handles adequately, decent gas mileage, quiet and can handle the occassional snow/dirt. Thanks!
Greg
Greg
Jon
Bob
-juice
He repeated "and it's AWD" about six times, and his price was $100 lower than TMV suggested.
I bit, but I also knew the car and owner. Idahodoug found his by asking older couples in parking lots if they were thinking of trading for a new Subaru - one couple was!
Decisions, decisions :-)
Steve, Host
IdahoDoug
The B4 Legacy will be a 2005 model, sometime next year, they aren't making any promises.
Bob
but I LIKE your parking lot method ... a LOT !!!
- The car we're replacing is developing some new problems. It has already had some nasty mechanical failures in the last few months!
- I already had to find a dealer nearly an hour away that had any decent '00/'01 models in my price range, and I have very little time to go driving all over the countryside as it is.
- There may be a glut of used cars overall, but there most certainly is not a surplus of used Outbacks around here. Many we've looked at are high miles and look pretty beat. They have been moving off the lots too, as we started looking casually back in early spring, and most of the potential candidates we had in mind from back then are long gone.
- Winter can be fairly nasty around here, so the Outback is pretty popular in my area. I'm thinking that they will only disappear from the lots even faster if we wait until late summer/early fall, unless too many trade-ins hit the dealers as a result of all the Subaru incentives. Since I don't work in the local auto industry or know anyone who does, it's tough for me to know how the used Subaru market is around here!
Perhaps I'll take Steve's advice and ask that Terry fellow if we're way out of the ballpark on the price. Thanks for your input, everyone! I'll let you know how things work out.
I live 1/2 mile from the Subie dealer, and it occurred to me that their older trade-ins might be a good source for play cars. Sure enough, here's one:
'98 base Outback in "no-sale blue", as Terry calls it.
Manual transmission (of course)
Ok tires, a few scratches here and there, and a bunch of them on the rr quarter panel above the cladding, but looks okay overall. Body panels all have good alignment, let's assume no accidents. Nothing obviously leaking, no rust (not a given here in MI), dry black soot in the tail pipe, and quite a bit of it, which makes me wonder how well the O2 sensor and injectors are doing their job.
Haven't sat in it, popped the hood, or driven it yet, but:
- What should i look out for? What should I tell my mechanic if and when he looks it over?
- Is the 2.5 of these years the preferred engine, or is the 2.2 the better engine for high miles? I don't really care about Outback vs. Legacy.
- What do y'all think it's worth, provided it's in decent shape?
And maybe raybear can answer this one: what's the best way to convince the used-car manager that I understand the definition of "as-is"? This dealership (VW/Audi/Sub) is pretty hoitie-toitie with their used cars, mostly $15-$25k cars on their small used lot.
Anyway, please enlighten me, and thanks in advance!
-Mathias
East Lansing, MI
Thx