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Subaru Legacy/Outback



  • gam2gam2 Posts: 316
    2001 Outbacks got variable intermittent wipers, a big improvement IMHO.

    I used to get that same smell after a good drive. Never checked to see if the transaxle was leaking. I also got the same smell after an oil change, although nothing ever got close to the exhaust.

    Anyone who thinks they can get a Honda Pilot around $25,000 better think again. The dealer here
    has sold at least 3-4 months inventory in advance without any price info. Price will probably be in the high $20's to mid $30's. I am certain additional dealer markup will be common like it is on the Acura MDX. You can also bet they will tack on ton's of dealer add-ons.At least you can deal on a Subie.

    GAM2 (still lurking)
  • rangerron7rangerron7 Posts: 317
    I have a 2000 OB and agree with what everyone has posted so far. I don't know if price is a consideration but you may want to test drive the LL Bean version which comes with an H6. The only downside is that SOA recommends premium gas.
    After close to 2 years, I am very happy with my OB and would definitely do it again.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,970
    I have a 2001 Legacy GT wagon and I love this car, I was previously a dyed in the wool Honda
    lover hence my user name.

    I use regular gas, my wagon is Automatic, and while I agree that it is no WRX. neither is it a slouch.

    looked at the base outback but the interior fabrics appeared cheap and course in comparison to the GT.

    I also wanted the moonroof option, I have had no complaints from anyone about rear seat comfort.

    And finally GT was only About $800 more expensive than the base outback here in Canada so that sealed my decision, Oh and I think this car beats any Honda I owned hands down and I owned a lot of them.

    Cheers Pat.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    And don't forget Honda is famous for everything being a DIO with no public pricing available for the options like moonroofs, etc. etc. so I'm sure they'll gouge you on that.

  • wrobelcwrobelc Posts: 45
    My 2000 Legacy L wagon has 36,000. I changed the disk pads over the weekend and had the rotors turned. Does any know on avg. how many times you can turn the rotors before needing to replace them because you've gone under the RMT?

    When our wagon was new (AUTO) we avg. 22 miles/gal in city driving. Now after two years, this has dropped to 20.5 to 21. Our driving habits are the same and wanted to know if others experienced at drop off after awhile.
  • Over in the Members forum (#6395), I reported about recently purchasing a '02 Special Edition Legacy SW. Plan to put some type of rear deflector on and I'm looking for advice from anyone who has either the spoiler or the acrylic style. I've seen Foresters with either the spoiler or the acrylic and many of the WRX wagons have the spoiler.

    Pat- In your splendid photos of your silver GT wagon, I noticed that you have the rear spoiler. Looks great; is it also effective keeping crud off your rear window?

  • jeijei Posts: 143
    Let us know how your rotors last. I had mine turned at the first brake job (58 K miles on a '99 Forester "S") and the rotors warped very soon after. New brake job with 4 rotors again at around 70K. On my own car, I plan to watch for wear and grooving carefully - and put up with some addtional noise and earlier pad wear. It's cheaper to replace pads 10-15K earlier than to replace rotors every 50-60K. Unless of course the rotors are really worn or grooved. I drive about 30K a year, most of it highway.

  • senturisenturi Posts: 27
    When is the oil change service due? For example at 3000 miles or at 3 month intervals. How does this schedule affect the car's performance? My wife's Outback had the initial oil change done at around 750 miles, however, it was around 3 months after she got the car. The Outback now has about 2000 miles on it, but it's now 5 months between the last oil change.
    Please advise.
    Thank you.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Don't forget that the taller gearing in the L (vs Outback and GT) gives it better fuel economy on the highway, and quieter cruising (lower rpms) If you are going up hill there is always 4th or even 3rd gear. : ^ ) The L is also a little lighter so it can pull that taller gear a little better.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Ron: I've read that the H6 can run on premium, it just makes 4 fewer hp. Still, 208hp is a lot more than Volvo's LPT or VW's V6 engines.

    Pilot will be $28-35k, probably, but yes, markups are very likely at first, so $30-37k is more like it for a while. Ody doesn't offer a moonroof, so I'm not sure there will even be a factory moonroof option.

    Charles: I've heard you can only turn rotors once. Depends on how thin the rotors are now, I guess. Your lower mileage could be caused by reformulated gas. Mine was 2mpg lower than usual during the winter.

    Dudley's right, and we also didn't factor in tire sizes. In actuality, the Outback is geared the tallest, then the Legacy L a little shorter (3% or so), then finally the GT with the shortest gearing, 7% shorter than the OB.

    You get trade-offs in acceleration vs. fuel economy. And of course you then have to factor in weight.

  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784

    I have a 2000 base OB with 5spd MT and love the car! I have taken it off road at the Pine Barrens, as well as using it to move furniture and carry 70 cases of cat food. I have never had any problems. I agree that you will not beat anyone from a stand still, but once you are moving, you move! I have also gone on a 6 hour trip with 2 teenagers in the back with no problem. It is a great car. Hope this helps.

  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    I know that my comments are biased - but.....

    I have three children (two adult size, one mini), they fit fine in the back of an Outback wagon.

    I never had a problem using regular fuel.

    Of course I believe they can last forever - I've read the customer comments!

  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,970
    To be perfectly honest as far as I can see the spoiler makes not a bit of difference to the crud that gets on the back of this car,it does suck a fair amount of dirt onto the back.

    In contrast, on my 1993 Accord wagon I rarely had to use the rear wiper, and in all the years I had it I could count on one hand the number of times I used the rear washer.

    As long as the Honda was moving nothing got on the rear glass,but a friend has a 2001 outback which is the same car as the legacy, he has the deflector and it makes no difference either.

    I got the spoiler thinking it would make a difference but also because it looked better than the deflector, BTW, my wagon is Titanium not silver.

    I hope this info makes your choice easier.

    Cheers Pat.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,970
    Most rotors cannot even be turned once, and on those that can, one turning is the maximum.

    Unless a rotor is slightly warped there should be no need to turn them, the small grooves that appear in rotors is a natural combination of the semi metallic pads that are used,rubbing on metal rotors.

    Just replacing the pads on lightly grooved rotors is acceptable as this is normal.

    If the rotors are grooved badly because the pads have been allowed to wear out that is different,in all probability machining will not remove grooves caused in this way they will be to deep.

    Cheers Pat.
  • mikenkmikenk Posts: 281
    I have spoilers on both my OB-VDC and WRX wagon. My back window never gets dirty. I only have rain to deal with, not snow. Maybe that is the difference.

  • sibbaldsibbald Posts: 106
    I also have a 2000 Outback and have twice posted a burning smell which is still evident after 48,000 clicks.

    For just a short part of the production year in 2000, Subaru used too thin a grease for the front axel which caused it to leak out onto the exhaust. Exactly the problem you are having. It should be replaced by your dealer under warranty.

    Unfortunately, this was not my problem and we are still searching for the source of the burning smell which is only after hard use such as climbing or high speeds.

  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,970
    I do not know what it is about the aerodynamics of this car, but within 5 minutes of being out in foul weather the back of the car is like a muddy ploughed field.

    If there is one aspect of this car that truly ticks me off it is this.

    Cheers Pat.
  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    My Forester was horrible in this regard until I had the (ugly) deflector installed. Problem solved. It went from the worst offender I ever had to one of the best.

  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    That "smell" from the axels should be addressed by a service program we have (I'm not sure if it is in effect in Canada). Question - is the smell you are experiencing "sweet" like coolant or is it another odor?

  • seanliewseanliew Posts: 1
    Hey guys! I've got a 2000 Outback. I HATE my plastic cladding (looks), but I love it when I only have to wax half the car! haha

    Anyways, over the months, the front bumper has sustained quite a bit of paint damage. I'm talking about the lower (below foglights) section of the bumper (mostly underside) have big scratches and scrapes. I'm planning to remove the bumper and repaint that section when it gets warmer. Does anybody know what color matches the gold plastic best? what kind of paint to use? Even tips on the painting process, thanks guys!
  • Thanks for the responses everyone.

    Pat- My apologies for my colour blindness (really, I am colour impaired). I went back and looked at your photos (#2010) in the Mods and could see the difference on your splash guard photos. I thought titanium colour was only on the OB cladding. The SE model is only available in silver or black. Titanium would have been our first choice if available for the SE.

    Ross- your info re: Rufus and his deflector is helpful. Our '00 OB w/o any deflector colllected crud really fast whereas our '92 Legacy(s)(2) with the metal deflectors are better.

  • mikenkmikenk Posts: 281
    Do you have the cross pieces installed on your roof rails? And is your definition of foul weather include just heavy rain? I don't even remember ever using my rear washer. Just curious as to what could be different.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I found that the metal deflectors on my '97 Rodeo (built in) and '00 Trooper (built in) work much better than my cousin's on her '00 Outback. Then again the spare tires mounted in the rear probably help stop the dust/dirt from building up as well.

  • peterson10peterson10 Posts: 116
    crud: I drove my 2000 OB without a rear deflector for first year, and was amazed at how it accumulated muck. I installed the deflector one sunny spring day, and found the problem virtually eliminated. Ordered my 2002 Forester L with only one option: the rear dust deflector.

    color: I believe the color is called "titanium pearl". Subaru dealers may sell touch up paint (perhaps in aerosol cans, perhaps not), but you could always have it custom mixed at an autobody paint store. I haven't tried to paint the cladding myself, but I suspect it doesn't require any special prep. Just fill the gouges with body putty; wet sand to 1500 grit, prime and paint. I much prefer the black unpainted "super-teflon-slick" surface on my Forester L. No scratches, no washing (just a quick hose down), no worries. Offer this as an option on the 2003 Outbacks and I'll trade mine in!

    cutting: I just read somewhere that some (many?) brake specialists now recommend against turning rotors under any conditions. The article mentioned Subaru rotors in particular, because they are surface hardened (I assume a light case-hardening), so once the hardening is lathed off their servicable life is virtually over. Instead they recommend replacing pads BEFORE any wear occurs, and thus avoid the need to replace the rotors until 90k miles or so. The cost is a wash, more or less. I'm now eager to learn how to replace my own pads so I can swap 'em cheap and often! Finally, a quick tip to avoid warped rotors: never keep the brakes applied once the car has come to a complete stop, if you can avoid it (tricky on automatics). The reason being simply that those hot discs of metal need to cool (and shrink) uniformly if they are to stay true. With the linings pressed against them they cool and shrink unevenly. Aluminum rotors throw off heat much quicker than ferrous rotors, so they are especially prone to warping. Just another reason to love that Subaru!

  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,970
    I really do not know what it is with this car, even when raining all the dirt from the ground gets sucked up on the back window.

    I have learned to live with it but I still do not like it.

    Cheers Pat.
  • sibbaldsibbald Posts: 106
    Hi Patti, we do have the same program in Canada and I am fortunate to have a great dealer in Victoria.

    In fact the car is going in tomorrow for a major service (48000 k.) and they are also again going to try and locate the source of the burning smell.

    It is not a sweet smell but rather a hot steamy burning smell (not electrical) and present when on dry roads but very pronounced after a drive on wet roads. The car has to either be at speed for a period of time or climb hills before it will smell. I feel sorry for the dealer trying to figure this one out. Obviously, they can't spare the time to go for a long drive or to go off into the hills.


  • sibbaldsibbald Posts: 106
    A friend was following my Outback down the highway one day in heavy rain. He said you wouldn't believe the action at the rear of the car in the wet. Described it as a big vortex of spray and wind coming off the road at the rear of the car.

    Sounded quite neat actually, like a jet taking off on a wet runway.

    I know what you mean about the rear window but I do like what it does to the cars that follow too closely. ;~}

  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    I'll check around to see if I can learn of anything that might help your dealer. I'll post later.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Pat: try Rain X on the rear window. Apply several coats before you wash the whole car. It works well on side and rear windows, at least for me.

  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    I also have Rain-x'd the windows on our OB, including the rear. It almost seems like the spoiler keeps the window drier and the only moisture it gets is from runoff from the roof and sides. It probably does get some spray from the vortex back there.

    I don't think it's bad though - a CRV at work came in the other day with the back window just coated in white salt spray. The lower part of the vehicle had it also, but none of the front or side windows.

    The one thing I have noticed about the OB rear wiper is that it has trouble wiping the top of the window. The wiper looses contact with the glass. I thought it might be the OEM wiper blade, but it didn't go away with a ANCO aero replacement. No big deal since I typically only use the rear wiper to clean the window after being parked in wet weather.

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