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2010 Equinox Trailer Harness

runoxrunox Posts: 156
edited July 2014 in Chevrolet
Does anyone know where I can purchase a quick connect trailer wiring harness for the '10 'Nox? It seems Chevy only wants to incloude it in their "trailer package" with the hitch and hardware.

I believe I found the open connector behind the driver side taillight. It has three wires which appear to be the correct colors for the brake and blinker lights. I really don't want to use a cut and splice after market harness.

Any help or sources are appreciated.


  • fstumpfstump Posts: 10
    Hello runox, I had a similar post yesterday but so far no replies. I installed a Hidden Hitch Class III hitch yesterday on my 2010 nOX LS but also need to find a wiring harness. I tried looking behind my drivers side taillight to see if I can find the connector you mentioned but could not get the tail light cover to come off. I took out the two phillip head screws & it's loose but won't come completely off. Didn't try to force it for fear of breaking something, is there a secret to getting the thing off? I'll keep watching this post & hopefully someone will provide info on the harness. Thanks, Frank
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    Sorry, I checked the forum but didn't see your post. You may need a flashlight. To peek behind the tailight, remove the cover over the spare tire pit. To the left, you may see a control box about 6"x2"x4". Behind that should be able to see the wiring to the tailight. You may have to remove the spare and shift the carpet around a bit. It's not glued down. It's a white connector that is pinned to chassis.
  • fstumpfstump Posts: 10
    Thanks for the directions, I found the connector without any problem. I find 4 wires on the connector, green, yellow, brown and black. Both of my trailers have a green & yellow (two wires binded together) and a yellow/brown (again two wires bonded together) and a white ground. I'm thinking that some kind of converter will be necessary to convert the vehicle 3 wiring system to the trailer 2 wiring system. Naturally the owners manual does not mention trailer wiring that I could find. At I find a reasonably priced converter that may work. You can see it at . I'll continue to check. Thanks again, Frank
  • dog19dog19 Posts: 2
    Once you find the recangular white trailer wiring plug and the ground bolt (about 6 inches in front of the wiring plug) your problems are just beginning. First of all, the plug is a new kind, different from previous Equinoxes, and no current trailer wiring kit has one to match. You could splice into the wires of the plug if the wires had electricity, but my voltmeter says no electricity comes to any of the wires in the plug even when the lights are activated. In 2007-2009 Equinoxes, you needed to insert 2 plugs and two fuses into the fuse box to activate the trailer wiring, so it is likely that some activation of the 2010 wiring is needed as well. A Tow-Ready connector kit for the 2007-2009 Equinoxes had the activating plugs and fuses and instructions for activation, but not only are there no open spaces that fit those plugs and fuses in the fuse box of the 2010 Equinox, but there do not appear to be any open spaces at all, just two fuse positions labeled for the trailer that already have fuses in them, and yet the wiring plug still does not have electricity!!!!!!!!. Something is needed to activate the wiring, and I don't know what it is. A technician at found all this out for the first time from me when they sent me an unusable connector kit that was supposed to work for "current models fo the Equinox". He called Tow-Ready for me, and found out they do not have a kit that will work for the 2010 and that the engineering to make one for the 2010 "isn't far along yet". It may be quite a while before you can tow a traler with an Equinox unless you have the trailer kit installed at the factory when you order!!!!!!!!

    This makes me real mad - it is causing huge problems for me. If you have any solution or detailed knowledge about how to activate the trialer plug, please let me know ASAP using this forum. If you have a 2010 Equinox with a factory trailer kit, you might be able to help us ou and find out how to activate the wiring by looking into the fuse box and finding a plug-in at a position NOT MARKED WITH A FUNCTION ON THE COVER OF THE FUSE BOX, THAT IS ALSO NOT ONE OF THE TWO POSITIONS IDENTIFIED FOR BLADE FUSES FOR TRAILER LIGHTS. In my Equinox, all positions identified with funtions on the fuse box cover already have a fuse or plug-in in them, so simply putting a plug-in or fuse into a marked position in the fuse box seems unlikley to be the answer.
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    Thanks for the details. I went to the Chevy Parts Dept this AM to order the harness and was told they only have "replacement harnesses" for "existing installations". Anyway I squeezed him for 2 part no.s. There are two parts to the harness, 10364351 which retails at $87.24 and 20807039 listing for $49.42. has them for $51.72 and $29.30.

    On the other hand, they sell the entire "Hitch Package" for $182.00. Hitch, receiver and ball, pin, clip, "fuses" and "relays". I'm told you can order the receiver with different offsets and different size balls, but they won't sell the harness and other electrical separate from the the "package".

    Since the "package" includes the relays and fuses they must also provide instructions for any activion of the power.

    I don't know, I may resell my hitch and go for the GMDirect package. Seems like the least path of least resistance.
  • crp1011crp1011 Posts: 6
    From what I have read from this site, I'm not the only one with this problem. You guys that have posted comments on the wiring harness have a lot of good information. Everything that was mention I can relate too. I have been looking at wiring up my 2010 Equinox since I bought it 4 days ago. I bought the hitch package from as one of the Runox did mention in his post. hope all go's well, thwen I'll repost my findings on here.
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    Hope you are not in a rush as is slow as snails getting orders out of the door.
  • smithpesmithpe Posts: 13
    My local dealer is having trouble wiring the harness so don't feel bad. I'm going back tomorrow to hopefully finish the job started last week.
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    Strange, hooking up the harness seems cut and dry based on the diagrams I've seen, although I question why they set up the hitch bracket for holding wiring on the right side when the electrical connector is behind the left tail light. Must be locating the fuse / relay ports or they can't find someone with hands small enough to fit in that little space behind the tailight to make the hook up.
  • bjones6bjones6 Posts: 28
    I'm new. I found this discussion by Googling it.
    I just installed a hitch on my 2010 Equinox, easy as pie. But I am in the same boat re the wiring. I can add a couple things to the discussion. The manual on p. 9-36 shows the fuses. In my vehicle, relay 57 is missing. There is also a relay missing (I think) just south of relay 60. There is no picture of this relay in the book, but the socket holes are present and in the right configuration. Fuses 17, 20, 23 are labeled in the book as trailer fuses. As stated above, these fuses are already installed. If someone can find some lettering of any kind on the plastic plug that is pinned to the chassis, I will try to locate the mate. I cannot find it in my catalog of industry standard connectors (Mouser). I cannot figure out why two adaptors would be needed. Seems crazy. What we really need is someone with the tow package installed who will unplug the adaptors, photograph them thoroughly (including the inside of any "converter" box that may be part of the system), and provide that photo--and also one of the fuse box, to the rest of us.
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    I've ordered the GM package. It is due in Saturday. I'll photo the connectors and scan the instructions (which better be there). I don't see a button for posting them here.
  • bjones6bjones6 Posts: 28
    Thanks, Runox. You are doing us all a huge favor. That's probably our only way of figuring this out.
    I did some more sleuthing with a meter and confirmed what dog19 wrote. There is no voltage on the 4-pin connector. The black wire is a true ground, however.
    I also ran a continuity check between the yel, grn and brn wires at the plug and the fuse box under the hood. None of the three wires has continuity to any of the socket connections where the two missing relays plug in (missing on my LT model, that is). The one relay that is labeled apparently runs some cooling fan that my vehicle lacks.
    My new hypothesis is that the black box in the back near the connector has inside of it a place for a relay and some extra fuses. I didn't feel like removing the nut on the far side of the box and removing it from the vehicle for inspection. I think the lid for this mystery box is held on by four screws that point downward when the box installed in the vehicle.
    Regarding the unique connector: if we know the wiring, we can simply splice into the four wires just behind the connector using the common splice connectors made for the purpose.
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    Okay, the GM hitch arrived. I*t's looks like GM is sqeezing out the aftermarket.

    1. It's 11/4" hitch, not 2". I presume this is because of the 1500lb limit on capacity. Not a big deal., hadn't intended to ahul that kind of load anyway.
    2. No fuses or relays came with the package. There's no instruction in the guide to install fuses or a relay, so you have to presume everything is there already. I'm quite certain it is, because.......
    3.The harness must be programmed by GM. :mad: You need to call the GM customer service center to have the vehicle programmed. One of the tools required is a scanner. I'm not sure what roll it plays, but I suspect this is a delear tool, so in the end you'll need to pay a visit there....and....
    then they gotcha...I haven't called yet, but I surmise you'll have to pay a little service fee, probably in the neighborhood of $100 for the scan and to get programmed.

    By the way, GMPartsDirect didn't include the receiver and hitch ball as indicated in the "package" but that's my issue with them.

    By the way, the number on the electrical connector to attach behind the taillight...Pl-11. I'm fairly certain it's not P1-11, but P(small L)-11. The 11's are very distinct with the flag at the top.

    Lesson learned here.....haggle to have it included in the sale or spring for the $350 as a dealer option
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    My mistake, the receiver, ball and pin are not included in the "package" from GMPartsDirect; hence the lower price. It is included in the "package" offered by other GM parts suppliers, if you need one. Not a big deal since it is a tad overpriced anyway.
  • bjones6bjones6 Posts: 28
    Wow. That's nasty. I am going to call the dealer who sold me the vehicle and see what he will do for me. I asked for the hitch package, and he said it would be outrageously expensive if he got if from GM and installed it. He actually recommended an aftermarket hitch. So he kinda owes me on this one.
    Can you describe the cable? You say that it must be programmed. Does this mean that it has some kind of box as a part of the cable in which something programmable is hiding? Or is the cable just wires? Someone said something about the cable coming in two parts with two separate part numbers. Is this true?
    I know you've already had an aggravating day, so I'll quit peppering you with questions.
  • crp1011crp1011 Posts: 6
    Runox, Please keep me posted on your findings. I ordered the GM package also so it should be recieved sometime this week. Like someome else mention not all of the parts (ball,pins, ect) are not included in the package and it is more costly then to order an aftermarket hitch.
  • wangltzwangltz Posts: 6
    I to am waiting for an LTZ to show up next month and plan on installing a Class II hitch.
    I have found a wiring harness made by Valley at Auto Anytime, As I have not purchased or installed it I do not know if it works on the 2010.
    Hope this helps out someone and they reply as to weather it works!! :)
  • wangltzwangltz Posts: 6
    NOT related to the wiring dilemma but anyone interested in a Class II for their 2010 Equionx...Draw TIte at,36408 has the best price I could find PLUS 10% off if you join their site. :)
  • newobienewobie Posts: 1
    I have not found ANY aftermarket wiring harness yet - including autoanything...

    The instructions for the factory hitch shows how to unscrew the drain plug in the spare tire well. GM # 20807039 threads to the hitch plug and plugs into the receptor plug in the right floor area, underneath the cover. GM # 10364351 receives at the hitch plug and terminates into the standard 4 wire trailer plug, screwed to the left of the hitch receiver - which is 1 1/4"!

    My argument with GM is the little hitch they send is rated at 400 # Tongue / 3,500 # GTW with statement "consult your vehicle owner's manual for maximum trailer weight for your specific vehicle..." SO, those of us with 2" accessories - bike racks, carriers, tailgate grills, etc. are being told it matters and that we have to spend $40 for an "adapter"....

    So much for a Fascist government bailing out the UAW for wages and benefits at GM plants idled for 8 months..... Did anyone note only 1/3 of GM is in America?? Or, that it has been illegal for over 20 years (FASB 106...) to fail to account for and fund all retiree benefits during the working active year of accrual of those benefits??

    NOW, even when we find better hitches than the cheaparse unit GM gets from THULE, we have to have our dealer program for electricity to power our trailer lites?? Did they forget any 6th grade delinquent can splice into the Brake lite, Left and Right turn signal. My suspicion is the LED lites on most trailers will not add enuff load to disrupt anything anyway......
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    :mad: bjones6 – After seeing the cable I don’t know why it is 2 parts since the car power end fits through the hole in the spare tire pit. The is a rubber stopper attached that fits the hole in the spare tire compartment floor since you have to remove the existing hole cover. Outside of being 2 pieces and the rubber stopper, it is no different than any other harness lead. There’s a small 4 wire adapter to the car power and the trailer plug matches the receiving plug which is attacked to an ear on the hitch near the holes for the runaway chains.

    I’ll quote from the directions that came with the hitch.

    “Note: Installing this Trailer Harness system requires programming of the vehicle. This is done with the Service Programming System in TIS2WEB. The installer needs to call the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC). The TCSC will update the vehicle calibrations in TIS 2WEB

    Tools Required

    Scan Tool
    Service Programming System (SPS-TIS2WEB)

    Also Required
    Call TCSC (1-800-826-6860) to obtain programming instructions

    You must have the vehicle’s VIN that will be upgraded:”

    :sick: crp1011 – I tried calling that TCSC number above but they are closed until Monday.

    :confuse: wangltz – that is a harness that has to be spliced onto the tail light wires. Go to a dealer and ask to read the operating manual. I forget exactly where I read it, but messing with the wiring can affect the air bags electronics. It seems the electronics on the vehicle have been designed so tight, that any extra draw may impact normal operation.

    I can tell you that is not the best deal aftermarket deal on the street, especially since it is a class II hitch. (Even though the vehicle can handle more than a class II). I have an aftermarket Class III sitting in my garage right now and I paid less than that price for it.

    :surprise: newobie said – SO, those of us with 2" accessories - bike racks, carriers, tailgate grills, etc. are being told it matters and that we have to spend $40 for an "adapter"....

    To my knowledge, a bike rack does not require brake and blinkers so, no, you do not need the harness adn you can get an aftermarket hitch--unless you are going to tow. If you can wait a week I’ll cut you a deal you can’t refuse for a hitch since I’m sitting on 2 right now.

    Did they forget any 6th grade delinquent can splice into the Brake lite, Left and Right turn signal. My suspicion is the LED lites on most trailers will not add enuff load to disrupt anything anyway......
    …yea, but I’m not voiding my warranty for a few bucks.
  • bjones6bjones6 Posts: 28
    runox: As I understand you, the cabling that came with the hitch consists of two cables that connect together, one of which has the rubber stopper attached (round or oblong; there are two possibilities down there. I assume its the round stopper you remove). The other ends of the two cables connect to (1) the white plug on the left side of the spare tire well and (2) the pigtail on the trailer itself. Neither cable has any box attached to it. I think I have visualized what you described correctly.
    Thank you for quoting the instructions. It's a bizarre thing to have done, IMHO. The fact that they ask for the VIN suggests a level of vehicle feature tracking beyond anything I have ever heard of. The instructions seem to say that the installer needs both a scan tool and a device called a "Service Programming System (SPS-TIS2WEB)." And then he still has to call into the Techline Customer Support Center to give them the VIN and get further instructions. This is a mind-boggling, Byzantine process for such a simple addition. My guess is that if I can get a technician to hook up the required gear and program the computer, voltage will be sent to the connector in the tire well, whether or not I have their cables installed. I wonder if they will quiz the installer to be sure I have purchased the correct cabling. If they refuse to reprogram the computer unless I buy their cable, I will be very put out.
    Splicing into the lighting wiring will probably work, but there are some potential drawbacks. There might be some minor dimming of the tail and brake/turn lights. Depending on the trailer, it might even push the limit of the fusing, and a larger fuse would probably push the limits on the wiring. I am doubtful that it would affect the airbag circuit, but I can believe that the factory would suggest this possibility. They don't want anyone messing with any part of the system without their permission, that's clear enough.
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    Here's an interesting aspect. All of the Chevy's come with OnStar and it provides vehicle diagnostics. I suspect they can look back in history ant stresses on the trany and engine systems. 2nd, if they can unlock your doors remotely, I presume they can activate the trailer harness system remotely also.

    Full details mwill be known shortly.
  • bjones6bjones6 Posts: 28
    Runox: That had occurred to me too. I would hope they wouldn't deny warranty service for the transmission based upon OnStar data. I would be surprised if the computer can track stresses on the vehicle well enough to document the presence of a trailer, so it would probably only know that there was an electrical draw on the trailer light system--which wouldn't tell them how heavy the trailer was. Hmm, some scary possibilities come to mind.
    You would think they could program the computer remotely. They can open the doors, sound the horn, flash the lights and (in some models) gradually slow the car in the case of its being stolen. There is no technical barrier to what they can control, really. It may be that the purpose of supplying the VIN is to allow them to do the actual programming remotely. But then I don't see why a scan tool is needed.
    If GM goes under, who takes over the OnStar system?
    Is there an OnStar privacy policy anywhere? Could the Feds require GM to allow them access to OnStar GPS data? Could a sufficiently adept PI gain access to that data?
    Okay, I am rapidly descending into conspiracy theory and paranoia--which I am not very susceptible to, usually. My feeling is that it's all good and that they mostly have our best interests in mind.
  • wangltzwangltz Posts: 6
    I know from past experience (04 Silverado) that the techs try and fault you for any electrical problems if you have add anything to the electrical system. So I will continue monitoring this thread until there is a definitive solution found. I really hope it doesn’t come down to going to Chevy parts and service for the install :mad:

    RUNOX would you consider letting everyone know where you got your deal on your hitch?
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    GM - retail package $250, $350 for dealer installation

    I hunted high and low and this is the best deal I could find. - $180 for hitch and harnesses, $30 shipping and handling
    You can also get just the harnesses here, P/N 10364351 for $51.72 and P/N 20807039 for $29.30. List price is about $120 for both.

    If you're interested in the complete package, adding the receiver, ball and pin - $219 + $30 shipping. Again this is the GM OEM "trailering package". - - - - - d691_31220.php
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    Called the Techline. Only a dealer can program the vehicle so the harness can operate. Spoke to my dealer, it takes 40 minutes. Since they forgot to send my paperwork over to the state to be titled and now I'm overdue, I've got a "get your vehicle programmed free" card. :blush:
  • bjones6bjones6 Posts: 28
    I called my dealer, and he offered to program the Equinox for towing without charging me more $$. I do not have the factory wiring harness, so that may cause the technician to balk. Runox: Is there anything in the cabling that would tell the computer that the cabling is present? If it's just straight wires, I can't see how the vehicle would know. Maybe the technician needs to plug something into the cable as a test load.
    My options are: 1) go in without any wiring and hope they can and will program it as is; 2) get a standard trailer connector pigtail and splice it into the four wires just behind the pigtail connector already present in the Equinox before I take it in for programming. Hmm. Not sure what to do. Any advice?
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    I look at it this way.....Just spent $28,000 on a new vehicle. The GM harness costs
    $80. Is $80 worth jeapardizing the warranty. Not in my eyes. Not with something like 13 onboard computers. Besides, Have seen how small the space is where you want to splice the wires? Good luck. - P/N 10364351 for $51.72 and P/N 20807039 for $29.30.
  • Thank you, Runox. I appreciate your perspective. I am such a cheapskate, and I sometimes lose perspective. I'll mull it over and consider calling my dealer in the AM to get the cable ordered.
  • GM Parts Direct sent me a pdf of the relevant cables. It's helpful">Is there any way for me to post a pdf to this discussion thread?
This discussion has been closed.