**... OK, time for a legal question. I rob a bank, take $9,000 in cash and buy a used car with it. Later, I get caught**
Stolen money is just like counterfeit money .. it was involved in a crime - you lose.!
There is some variables here and depending on the county or State jurisdiction .. sometimes, like what happened with me in 00 you might have to wait 15 months for the case to pass thru the dockets and watch for the title and the vehicle to come back .. in the meantime, your watching the value of the vehicle "evaporate" ......
**What's the legal implication to the guy who sold me the car?** ..... they will do a background check and make sure there is no social/criminal and/or business ties ...
**Does it matter if it's a dealer or private individual?** ...... they will usually cut the individual some slack ..
**And is it different if I pay with a $9,000 check?** ......... depends on the crime and how the money trail looks, the business owner spends the money on a good CPA and an attorney and visits with the prosecutor.
**Is it different if I pay with a credit union check tied to a loan?** ...... depends on the paper trail.
"Also, I forgot to say that I don't care how secure they say the GM site is, I don't like having my DOB and the last 4 digits of my SS# input online."
one simple question: You go to a restaurant. You pay with a credit card, placing the card in the quite nice leaather billfold with the check. Do you follow the waiter/waitress to the back? No? Then your credit information is absolutely less secure than it is when passed through 128-bit SSL web-based technology.
I guess whether you believe this or not is your perogotive, but it's true. I'd prefer to make an SSL purchase any day of the week, twice on Tuesday before I would trust a person. Do you seriously think any onlne theft of credit information is really happening at a greater frequency than what has worked for theives the past 50 years? It's your preference, don't get me wrong, but I really, really do not understand this mentality.
***And I don't work for GM, any ISP or computer firm. I just trust alogorithmic encyrption over the impluse greed of humanity anyday.
The best thing to do is not worry about the little fees and such, and negotiate an 'Out The Door Price'. Where I am, in Virginia, the doc fees range from about $200 to $500. Across the river in MD, they are about $50. Does that mean the car is chaper in MD? NO! The out the door price is similar.
I just trust alogorithmic encyrption over the impluse greed of humanity anyday.
I agree completely, your data are safe while travelling over the internet. It's at the other end that the problems begin because a person (GM employee) has access to both pieces of data and while the risk that any person coming into contact with those data will misuse them is small, it is not zero.
this is more of a question then a reply. this is the first time i am at this site. iwas looking at a 2001 olds aurora for $10,995 with power everything. it has i think around 80-90k miles on it. my question is am i getting a deal with that kind of milage? i cant find anything on this site to type in milage for potiential new car owners to see if thats acceptable or not. i would really appreciate soome help or advice from someone who would know. thanks alot.
I don't see why not. I bought a new car when I was unemployed. So my sister got the loan and the car is registered to me and insurance is in my name.
I got hired two weeks later, just in time so that my sister did not have to cover the loan. I am paying her and she pays the bill since the payment 'coupons' get mailed to her.
Terry might be playing with his boat over the weekend, so while you are waiting you might also go to the Used Cars tab at the top of the page here at Edmunds and you will be able to input all the information and get an estimated trade and retail value for the Olds.
I agree that the price seems high. Not sure exactly what you are looking for, but GM luxury cars with high mileage can put a dent in your budget because of repair bills.
I'm sure other people have been in our situation, but I'm not sure where to post to get feedback. We have 2 cars, a 97 Civic LX and a 02 F-150. The civic is paid off, truck is not and that's what is hurting us. We did not get a good interest rate on the truck, however we bought a new home and now we need to get the payment lowered AND possibly get 2 "newer" used vehicles for the same monthly payment if not lower. Hope that makes sense. Please help, and thank you.
"So I don't have to run to the bank for the whole amount at the last minute, I could maybe get a $20K cashier's check ahead of time, and pay the balance on a $25K car plus fees by check or credit card?"
Will the bank make out a certified cashier's check for $20K without a payee? I know my bank always wants a payee name when making out a check over a certain amount. When I bought my house, they made the down payment check out to me and I signed it over to the lawyers at closing. Will a car dealer accept that?
There's not much difference in carrying around a blank cashier's check and the whole amount in cash. I'd be stunned if the bank would issue a cashier's check without a payee.
Getting a cashier's check shouldn't take more than a few minutes at the bank anyway - it seems like the dealer would be understanding of your need to get the check before closing the deal. Let them know up front so it doesn't sound like you're walking away!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
....So, what do you want help with? Sounds like your credit score is a little low?
Are you asking if you can trade both your cars for 2 "new" used cars? huh? ahh, you can do that.... and you are hinting you need a lower payment per month for both? maybe, depends on many variables... cars you buy, what you owe on the truck, what amount you want to finance, your credit score, length of loans, etc....
Boy, this example really shows how little I know! I don't even know about a cashiers check--I don't remember how to write one! Yes, I should be able to get the payee's name.
I just wasn't sure that the dealership would be able to take a personal check. Guess that's something I will ask the dealership; I have heard someone say a dealership wouldn't give them their car until the check cleared.
I am so glad that there are helpful people on this list! I haven't purchased a car in many years, and it was financed last time. Thanks so much!!!
You can always make yourself the payee on the cashiers check... then endorse it over to whoever you want..
But, if your only issue is "paying cash".. and not financing the car.. I'd just take the time to run to the bank, while they are prepping your car... Car dealers don't get all gaga over having cash in their hands.. it won't get you a better deal.
I am planning to purchase this vehicle shortly. If someone could tell me what is the lowest a typical dealer would take for this vehicle, I would appreciate it. I am in NC. I am posting this in the smart shopper as well as the 4runner forum.
Model: Toyota 4 Runner SR5 4wd V6 (5 Spd Automatic) Model Year: 2005 Color: Black Interior: Stone Fabric
carsdirect.com shows a target price for this vehicle of invoice, which, equipped as you listed, should be about 29,760 (32,906 MSRP)
4Runners seem to have a $500 rebate at the moment, but CarsDirect isn't showing a reduction from invoice, meaning the dealer is basically being able to "keep" it, resulting in pricing of $500 over invoice. (Does that make sense??? I seem to be having trouble writing this morning!!)
CarsDirect is usually a pretty good indicator of the market conditions for individual vehicles, at least in my opinion. Others will certainly chime in.
Are you saying you're now paying on one vehicle, and you want to get two "newer" used vehicles for less than what you're paying for one now? What is your current payment? Is there a reason why you can't just refinance your auto loan? Getting two newer cars for less than you're paying for one seems unlikely.
I saw the initial reports from the Automotive retailing attitude and perception survey sent out to consumers...for the first time they measured public trust in dealerships....when compared to other industies law enforcement was at the top and oil/gas companies at the bottom. Auto dealers ranked third from the bottom just below lawyers but above the news media.
Nothing really surprising...but listen to this....When rating "my own automobile dealership" consumers put them in second place behind law enforcement. So essentially people think that all car dealers are bad except the one they do business with...
The complete results will be out in a couple weeks...
I saw the initial reports from the Government attitude and perception survey sent out to consumers...for the first time they measured public trust in government....when compared to other industies law enforcement was at the top and oil/gas companies at the bottom. government ranked third from the bottom just below lawyers but above the news media.
Nothing really surprising...but listen to this....When rating "my own senator/congressman" consumers put them in second place behind law enforcement. So essentially people think that all senators/congressmen are bad except the one they elect...
The complete results will be out in a couple weeks...
This would be a great topic for the News & Views board.
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I am thinking of buying a new Toyota Sienna from a dealership group that has franchises in different locations. I live in FL, and there is a Chrysler franchise of theirs near me, just not the Toyota brand I am looking for.
I can buy the car from their franchise in PA. The benefit is that the price is more than competitive, the dealer fee is $300 lower than ones here in FL, and there are no Gulf States Toyota add-ons ($500-$700 per car). Overall, I am saving at least $1000 by buying out of state. In addition, they offered to ship to the FL store for me to take delivery for free on one of their trucks that delivers cars to their dealerships.
So, here are the questions: 1. Would you do this? 2. What things should I be on the lookout for? I can think of how will the delivering dealership in FL know how to properly prep the car for me? What happens if it is damaged in transit? 3. Any other questions I should ask before proceeding?
Maybe some dealers can help me with a conundrum. My attempted deal may be shot, but I'm wondering how it happened....
I was looking at a used car and, with Terry's help, figured somewhere near $17K would be a good price. For reference, Edmunds TMV gave Trade=$16,265, Private=$18,367, and Retail=$19,454. I know the car was bought at auction off lease. Dealer's asking price was $20,790.
So I started my bid at $16K flat, figuring to work up. Long story short, the lowest they came was $19,190. I didn't offer higher than $16.5, knowing the car needed $500 in new tires right off the bat. I told them I wasn't going much higher, and if they couldn't get closer we wouldn't need to waste anyone's time and we could go get some dinner. So we parted ways, still some $2700 apart.
So who was nuts? Me, for believing Edmunds and Terry :-) and unknowingly lowballing them? Or them, for figuring someone will eventually pay their price even after the car's been on the lot for 3 months with a couple price reductions already?
What do you do in a situation like this and does it really mean I'm wrong if they can't come close?
....... Could the dealers name start with a K and end with a Y.?
You have to be "very careful" in a situation like this and you have to have everything signed, sealed and "supported" by the GM, Sales Manager (the guy in charge) not the salesmans word and probably a confirmation with the GM in PA would be a great idea ...
I'm not saying this can't be done, but ... even dealers that have multi-stores in different areas work a little different, but usually the cost is the same .. the transport is still going to charge "something", there is no such thing as just "dead heading", even if they just charge for the weight of the vehicle thats 30/40cts a mile ... I kinda find it hard to believe there is not a Sienna inside of 1,000 miles that is "at least" close in price ..... I would want know whole lot more details on this deal ..............
I'm looking at a 2005 Subaru Forester 2.5XT Premium. Dealer says it's a demo with 5600 miles. I'll be asking for date dealer put car into service and maintenance records, last oil change etc. What are the pros and cons to buying a demo and what should I pay for it?
Hi! I am looking into purchasing a CR-V in NJ very soon. I have three quotes from dealers via email that are very good prices as far as I can deduce. They include the destination charge of $515.
Aside from Sales Tax...What can I expect to pay extra?
I know there is the Tax & Tags thing...how much is normal for that.
I dont want to have the good price go our the window when they tack on additional fees that I am not aware of! Thanks in advance for your help!
Your question is a no-brainer. You are the one who is nuts.
The store has a product they want to sell. If you want it you have to pay their price. As we used to say in math class, QED.
What do you do in a situation like this? Simple. Either pay their price or go somewhere else. As for me, I would go somewhere else or choose to buy a different product.
In the 1970's I read a wonderful book, "The Snow Leopard", about a guy who wanted to visit the Crystal Monastery in Upper Dolpo, Tibet, to meet a certain Buddhist monk.
He asked a friend what he could expect to learn from the monk. His friend said, "Expect nothing".
How much more can you "expect" to pay for the easily flammable CR-V when you visit the dealer? Expect nothing. Who knows what extra fees they will tack on to the price.
Compute the OTD price you are willing to pay and see if they will accept it.
Thanks Terry for the advice. I will try to get more details of course before finalizing anything.
The dealership is Fitzgerald Auto Mall. I was going to lease a Chrysler T&C from the Clearwater store, but then I found out we were having twins to go along with our 3 year old. While the Sto-N-Go is a neat feature, it is not conducive to flexible seating arrangements needed for twins.
So I then looked at the Sienna, and it is very child friendly. But in Florida, the Sienna's are about $500 over invoice + $500 dealer fee + $699 Toyo Package.
I then noticed Fitz had a Toyota store, and I emailed them. They have a Sienna I like for about $500 over invoice, + $99 dealer fee + $0 Toyo Package. So I 'save' about $1100. And I like the way they do their business - very upfront with everything - at least they make it appear that way!
I emailed them asking about feasibility of taking delivery in FL, and they called me back saying 'No prob. We will call our transport co. and find out if they are making a trip down to Clearwater soon, and if so, put it on the truck for you no charge.' I said if that is possible, we may have a deal. So I am waiting to hear back if that is possible.
But I will take your advice and talk to GM of both stores.
On another topic - if I am looking at used 2004 Siennas, how much under what I can buy a new 2005 should I look to spend. In other words, if I can get a new 2005 for $32.5k, what should I look to pay for a comparable 2004 with 12k miles for example? I am thinking $27k, but they seems to be going for $30k+, which to me makes no sense.
It may be a case of they are into the vehicle for way too much jack and won't bite the bullet. It shouldn't be the case, but it depends on who bought it at the big sale.
yes, that may be the case - though i doubt it since it was bought at auction. how often do car dealers significantly overpay at auction?
why is it, that so many sales folks on these boards have said 'it shouldn't matter what WE paid to get the vehicle. that is none of your business and has nothing to do with how much you should be willing to pay for the vehicle.'
Because you don't go to Sears and ask what they paid for the refrigerator. People selling their own home don't generally reveal what they paid for it (though it IS public info). You don't hear of folks going to purchase a boat and asking what the boat vendor paid for it.
Apart from anything else, it's just not good business practice to basically open your books to your customers.
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I think Isell uses this, but what if you won a new $30,000 car in a raffle? Would you sell it for $1000 (a "fair" profit), since you have $0.00 in it? Or should you sell for 30K because that's what market value is?
Dealers have different amounts in every used car (depending on when/where bought, reconditioning fees, etc). But, if they are otherwise the same (model/miles etc.), they should be priced the same.
But, some dealers insist on getting $x because of what they have in a unit, so they can be as short sided as a buyer that refuses to pay a fair market price if they think the dealer is making too much profit.
Just because they won't sell for a "reasonable" price, doesn't mean you are wrong..
Some dealers won't make reasonable deals.. Or, he could have just woke up on the wrong side of the bed that morning... You can research a fair price all you want, but that doesn't mean that particular dealer will sell it for that...
With new cars, it is easier, because every dealer has the same exact car to sell... With a used car, every one is different.
Sometimes, you just have to accept that a dealer won't sell at the price you want, and look for another car.. It still doesn't mean you were wrong.
You have to remember that in order to buy the car at auction, the dealer had to be the high bidder! It isn't uncommon for the "right" car to get bid well above what the books say.
Why is that? Because that particular car may be a hot seller in high demand that the dealer knows will quickly be snapped up for a premimum price.
Why again? Because that's the MARKET on that car.
And, bluedevil, sorry but it really isn't your buisness what a merchant psid for the product e sells. The market determines selling prices.
By the same token, I don't want or expect my customers to think about the tremendous OVERHEAD it takes to run a car business. The costs of operation are staggering.
That auction car has to be transported which often runs 700.00 or more depending on location. It has to be detailed, run through the shop wher who knows what reconditioning it's going to need?
It's not uncommon at all to have another 2000.00 in a used car before it's ready to sell.
Well, that could be. I have no idea what kind of a used car it even is. It's possible that the dealer is buried in it or he is looking for someone willing to pay his inflated price.
I guess I should have said..." Offering 5000.00 less than an asking price would normally be considered a ridiculous offer and you won't be taken seriously".
I agree with that.. Usually, if they have the car priced that far out of the ballpark, I don't bother.. With a private seller, I never bother.. they take low offers personally.
What if the dealer's starting price is ridiculous? Should the smart buyer, who has a good idea of what is a fair price for the vehicle, simply not negotiate on it for fear of insulting the dealer with an initial offer that is 'ridiculously' far from their asking price? That's silly.
In the case mentioned earlier, it sure seems like the dealer's starting price was the ridiculous one, not the buyer's initial offer. Or perhaps neither was ridiculous.
Some of you guys are beating up this prospective buyer who seems like a reasonable person and has acted reasonably. I don't like it.
A lot of times private sellers ask the dumbest prices. The get on the internet and they "know" what their car is worth. After running an ad for a month with no calls they usually come to grips with the market.
Yup... I like to call after the ad has run for the third time, with the price dropping each time.. By then, a wad of Benjamins will usually seal the deal, at a very attractive price.
Well, I sure didn't mean to beat anyone up. The poster asked a question and I answered it based on my perspective.
To answer your question, if the starting price is way above what I believe the market is, I wouldn't have made an offer at all. I would have looked elsewhere.
" Well, I like the car but I think it's priced a bit too high..what is the least you would feel comfortable taking for it"
If that number still is too high, I'll give them my name and number. I'll tell them I have cash in hand and that I'll be buying a used car in the next two days.
When I look at a car for a personal purchase, I come up with a price that I am willing to pay (based on what I think the car is worth).
On my last vehicle, i went into my favorite used car lot and offered $7200 OTD. The dealer's price was $9999 and he offered it for $9200. I wasn't willing to go over $7500 as that was the most that the car was worth. I shook hands with my buddy and kept looking.
A funny thing happened. The salesman called me 90 days later and asked me if I was in the market. He sold me the car for $6300.
There are a million used cars in Alamo country. NEVER OVERPAY.
Comments
I rob a bank, take $9,000 in cash and buy a used car with it. Later, I get caught**
Stolen money is just like counterfeit money .. it was involved in a crime - you lose.!
There is some variables here and depending on the county or State jurisdiction .. sometimes, like what happened with me in 00 you might have to wait 15 months for the case to pass thru the dockets and watch for the title and the vehicle to come back .. in the meantime, your watching the value of the vehicle "evaporate" ......
**What's the legal implication to the guy who sold me the car?** ..... they will do a background check and make sure there is no social/criminal and/or business ties ...
**Does it matter if it's a dealer or private individual?** ...... they will usually cut the individual some slack ..
**And is it different if I pay with a $9,000 check?** ......... depends on the crime and how the money trail looks, the business owner spends the money on a good CPA and an attorney and visits with the prosecutor.
**Is it different if I pay with a credit union check tied to a loan?** ...... depends on the paper trail.
Terry.
one simple question: You go to a restaurant. You pay with a credit card, placing the card in the quite nice leaather billfold with the check. Do you follow the waiter/waitress to the back? No? Then your credit information is absolutely less secure than it is when passed through 128-bit SSL web-based technology.
I guess whether you believe this or not is your perogotive, but it's true. I'd prefer to make an SSL purchase any day of the week, twice on Tuesday before I would trust a person. Do you seriously think any onlne theft of credit information is really happening at a greater frequency than what has worked for theives the past 50 years? It's your preference, don't get me wrong, but I really, really do not understand this mentality.
***And I don't work for GM, any ISP or computer firm. I just trust alogorithmic encyrption over the impluse greed of humanity anyday.
I agree completely, your data are safe while travelling over the internet. It's at the other end that the problems begin because a person (GM employee) has access to both pieces of data and while the risk that any person coming into contact with those data will misuse them is small, it is not zero.
Great .. more big words I have to look up ...
Terry.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I got hired two weeks later, just in time so that my sister did not have to cover the loan. I am paying her and she pays the bill since the payment 'coupons' get mailed to her.
I agree that the price seems high. Not sure exactly what you are looking for, but GM luxury cars with high mileage can put a dent in your budget because of repair bills.
Start here for deciding a price for selling your used Aurora.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
We have 2 cars, a 97 Civic LX and a 02 F-150. The civic is paid off, truck is not and that's what is hurting us. We did not get a good interest rate on the truck, however we bought a new home and now we need to get the payment lowered AND possibly get 2 "newer" used vehicles for the same monthly payment if not lower. Hope that makes sense.
Please help, and thank you.
Will the bank make out a certified cashier's check for $20K without a payee? I know my bank always wants a payee name when making out a check over a certain amount. When I bought my house, they made the down payment check out to me and I signed it over to the lawyers at closing. Will a car dealer accept that?
Getting a cashier's check shouldn't take more than a few minutes at the bank anyway - it seems like the dealer would be understanding of your need to get the check before closing the deal. Let them know up front so it doesn't sound like you're walking away!
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Are you asking if you can trade both your cars for 2 "new" used cars? huh? ahh, you can do that.... and you are hinting you need a lower payment per month for both? maybe, depends on many variables... cars you buy, what you owe on the truck, what amount you want to finance, your credit score, length of loans, etc....
I just wasn't sure that the dealership would be able to take a personal check. Guess that's something I will ask the dealership; I have heard someone say a dealership wouldn't give them their car until the check cleared.
I am so glad that there are helpful people on this list! I haven't purchased a car in many years, and it was financed last time. Thanks so much!!!
But, if your only issue is "paying cash".. and not financing the car.. I'd just take the time to run to the bank, while they are prepping your car... Car dealers don't get all gaga over having cash in their hands.. it won't get you a better deal.
regards,
kyfdx
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Model: Toyota 4 Runner SR5 4wd V6 (5 Spd Automatic)
Model Year: 2005
Color: Black
Interior: Stone Fabric
Options Installed
115v Ac Power Point-NAAT
Power Tilt/Slide Moonroof w/Sunshade-SRAT
Curtain & Side Airbags: Driver & Front-GYAT
Carpet/Trunk Mat (req. DD Cargo Sys)-PV60
Daytime Running Lights-RLAT
Double Decker Cargo System W/-CMAT
Black Roof Rack & Cross Bars-DRAT
Leather Steering Wheel and shift knob:-NEAT
17" Alloy Wheels w/265/65R17 Tires-AWAT
4Runners seem to have a $500 rebate at the moment, but CarsDirect isn't showing a reduction from invoice, meaning the dealer is basically being able to "keep" it, resulting in pricing of $500 over invoice. (Does that make sense??? I seem to be having trouble writing this morning!!)
CarsDirect is usually a pretty good indicator of the market conditions for individual vehicles, at least in my opinion. Others will certainly chime in.
Hope that helps.
Nothing really surprising...but listen to this....When rating "my own automobile dealership" consumers put them in second place behind law enforcement. So essentially people think that all car dealers are bad except the one they do business with...
The complete results will be out in a couple weeks...
Nothing really surprising...but listen to this....When rating "my own senator/congressman" consumers put them in second place behind law enforcement. So essentially people think that all senators/congressmen are bad except the one they elect...
The complete results will be out in a couple weeks...
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I can buy the car from their franchise in PA. The benefit is that the price is more than competitive, the dealer fee is $300 lower than ones here in FL, and there are no Gulf States Toyota add-ons ($500-$700 per car). Overall, I am saving at least $1000 by buying out of state. In addition, they offered to ship to the FL store for me to take delivery for free on one of their trucks that delivers cars to their dealerships.
So, here are the questions:
1. Would you do this?
2. What things should I be on the lookout for? I can think of how will the delivering dealership in FL know how to properly prep the car for me? What happens if it is damaged in transit?
3. Any other questions I should ask before proceeding?
Thanks for your input.
Damon
I was looking at a used car and, with Terry's help, figured somewhere near $17K would be a good price. For reference, Edmunds TMV gave Trade=$16,265, Private=$18,367, and Retail=$19,454. I know the car was bought at auction off lease. Dealer's asking price was $20,790.
So I started my bid at $16K flat, figuring to work up. Long story short, the lowest they came was $19,190. I didn't offer higher than $16.5, knowing the car needed $500 in new tires right off the bat. I told them I wasn't going much higher, and if they couldn't get closer we wouldn't need to waste anyone's time and we could go get some dinner. So we parted ways, still some $2700 apart.
So who was nuts? Me, for believing Edmunds and Terry :-) and unknowingly lowballing them? Or them, for figuring someone will eventually pay their price even after the car's been on the lot for 3 months with a couple price reductions already?
What do you do in a situation like this and does it really mean I'm wrong if they can't come close?
You have to be "very careful" in a situation like this and you have to have everything signed, sealed and "supported" by the GM, Sales Manager (the guy in charge) not the salesmans word and probably a confirmation with the GM in PA would be a great idea ...
I'm not saying this can't be done, but ... even dealers that have multi-stores in different areas work a little different, but usually the cost is the same .. the transport is still going to charge "something", there is no such thing as just "dead heading", even if they just charge for the weight of the vehicle thats 30/40cts a mile ... I kinda find it hard to believe there is not a Sienna inside of 1,000 miles that is "at least" close in price ..... I would want know whole lot more details on this deal ..............
Terry.
Aside from Sales Tax...What can I expect to pay extra?
I know there is the Tax & Tags thing...how much is normal for that.
I dont want to have the good price go our the window when they tack on additional fees that I am not aware of! Thanks in advance for your help!
The store has a product they want to sell. If you want it you have to pay their price. As we used to say in math class, QED.
What do you do in a situation like this? Simple. Either pay their price or go somewhere else. As for me, I would go somewhere else or choose to buy a different product.
He asked a friend what he could expect to learn from the monk. His friend said, "Expect nothing".
How much more can you "expect" to pay for the easily flammable CR-V when you visit the dealer? Expect nothing. Who knows what extra fees they will tack on to the price.
Compute the OTD price you are willing to pay and see if they will accept it.
The dealership is Fitzgerald Auto Mall. I was going to lease a Chrysler T&C from the Clearwater store, but then I found out we were having twins to go along with our 3 year old. While the Sto-N-Go is a neat feature, it is not conducive to flexible seating arrangements needed for twins.
So I then looked at the Sienna, and it is very child friendly. But in Florida, the Sienna's are about $500 over invoice + $500 dealer fee + $699 Toyo Package.
I then noticed Fitz had a Toyota store, and I emailed them. They have a Sienna I like for about $500 over invoice, + $99 dealer fee + $0 Toyo Package. So I 'save' about $1100. And I like the way they do their business - very upfront with everything - at least they make it appear that way!
I emailed them asking about feasibility of taking delivery in FL, and they called me back saying 'No prob. We will call our transport co. and find out if they are making a trip down to Clearwater soon, and if so, put it on the truck for you no charge.' I said if that is possible, we may have a deal. So I am waiting to hear back if that is possible.
But I will take your advice and talk to GM of both stores.
On another topic - if I am looking at used 2004 Siennas, how much under what I can buy a new 2005 should I look to spend. In other words, if I can get a new 2005 for $32.5k, what should I look to pay for a comparable 2004 with 12k miles for example? I am thinking $27k, but they seems to be going for $30k+, which to me makes no sense.
Damon
why is it, that so many sales folks on these boards have said 'it shouldn't matter what WE paid to get the vehicle. that is none of your business and has nothing to do with how much you should be willing to pay for the vehicle.'
Apart from anything else, it's just not good business practice to basically open your books to your customers.
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Dealers have different amounts in every used car (depending on when/where bought, reconditioning fees, etc). But, if they are otherwise the same (model/miles etc.), they should be priced the same.
But, some dealers insist on getting $x because of what they have in a unit, so they can be as short sided as a buyer that refuses to pay a fair market price if they think the dealer is making too much profit.
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Some dealers won't make reasonable deals.. Or, he could have just woke up on the wrong side of the bed that morning... You can research a fair price all you want, but that doesn't mean that particular dealer will sell it for that...
With new cars, it is easier, because every dealer has the same exact car to sell... With a used car, every one is different.
Sometimes, you just have to accept that a dealer won't sell at the price you want, and look for another car.. It still doesn't mean you were wrong.
regards,
kyfdx
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You made a ridiculous offer. You offered almost 5000.00 less than they were asking for the car!
Sorry, but that's what you did.
When a dealer gets an offer that low, they lose interest quickly and assume they are dealing with a non-serious buyer.
By your logic, all car dealers should ask $30K for their $20K cars, just in case some rube comes in and offers $25K.
Our friend didn't just come up with that offer out of the blue.. He asked an expert on this board for a fair price.
I'd say the ridiculous number was the asking price, not the offer..
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Why is that? Because that particular car may be a hot seller in high demand that the dealer knows will quickly be snapped up for a premimum price.
Why again? Because that's the MARKET on that car.
And, bluedevil, sorry but it really isn't your buisness what a merchant psid for the product e sells. The market determines selling prices.
By the same token, I don't want or expect my customers to think about the tremendous OVERHEAD it takes to run a car business. The costs of operation are staggering.
That auction car has to be transported which often runs 700.00 or more depending on location. It has to be detailed, run through the shop wher who knows what reconditioning it's going to need?
It's not uncommon at all to have another 2000.00 in a used car before it's ready to sell.
I guess I should have said..." Offering 5000.00 less than an asking price would normally be considered a ridiculous offer and you won't be taken seriously".
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In the case mentioned earlier, it sure seems like the dealer's starting price was the ridiculous one, not the buyer's initial offer. Or perhaps neither was ridiculous.
Some of you guys are beating up this prospective buyer who seems like a reasonable person and has acted reasonably. I don't like it.
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To answer your question, if the starting price is way above what I believe the market is, I wouldn't have made an offer at all. I would have looked elsewhere.
" Well, I like the car but I think it's priced a bit too high..what is the least you would feel comfortable taking for it"
If that number still is too high, I'll give them my name and number. I'll tell them I have cash in hand and that I'll be buying a used car in the next two days.
I've had great success doing exactly that.
Really.. sounds like a good plan.. I'll try that the next time..
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On my last vehicle, i went into my favorite used car lot and offered $7200 OTD. The dealer's price was $9999 and he offered it for $9200. I wasn't willing to go over $7500 as that was the most that the car was worth. I shook hands with my buddy and kept looking.
A funny thing happened. The salesman called me 90 days later and asked me if I was in the market. He sold me the car for $6300.
There are a million used cars in Alamo country. NEVER OVERPAY.