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Comments
BTW I only have 37,000 miles on the car and I purchased it new, if this makes a difference.
This is the first Minnesota winter it has really seen (Texas car) and the engine is much louder in the bitter cold.
The heating system usually works fine, but in this -50F weather it does have trouble warming up the cab.
Thanks
You're right, and my ignorance of cars shows. The car does turn over, but it never starts. Now three years later the problem continues. Every 5 months or so the car won't start. If you have ever lost the programming in a key, the same type of thing happens, except the immobilizer 'key' light on the dashboard will flash. In our case, the light never flashes. The dealership has reprogrammed the keys several times. The remotes have been in and out of operation, including the new one we purchased. 3 years on, and we have not found a resolution. When the problem happens, we merely hold the key over until the car starts...often a minute or more.
I'm still in favor of replacing the ECU, but I'd like to have some proof before we do that.
No black smoke emits or any such thing.
They have in a round about way admitted fault for this but, don't want to take care of it. My car has 96,993 miles on it and the tranny is starting to fail :sick: . I really hope it goes in the next thousand miles or so because I have the 100,000 mile power train warranty and they won't repair it until the transmission is completely shot. I will never buy a Mitsubishi again. :lemon: I have had to replace the catalytic converter 4 times, had water leak onto my floor board, had a really bad exhaust leak and when I took it to Mitsubishi to repair, I got it back with none of the power outlets working and my power seat not working when those were just fine when I brought it in! lol
The blower on the heater works for all locations except when the front windshield defogger. The air is blowing, but it is not coming out at all by the windshield. I do not know where to look or what to look for to try and fix this.
Any suggestions? It clearly is something mechanical, but what?
jack up your car. be sure to put jack stands underneath. on the driver side, at the bottom of the firewall, there are 2 brake lines that run along there. behind the brake lines there is a hole about the size of your little finger. it will take you a little while to locate it because you can't really see it unless you have a mirror. it is directly behind the lines and almost impossible to find. once you locate it you will have to take some wire to stick up in there and wiggle it around as much as you can untill you get through the dirt in the hole. once you do that, be prepared to get soaked because the water will be coming. i also cleaned it out with my air compressor. no more leak, no more mold since. it was a hassle but at least the dealer didn't get my money.
majvic
Now my husband brings it home and I go out to check it and NOW the other rear light is doing the same thing, the brake light works but the rear light while driving is not working at all, we tried new lights it now must be the same wiring problem,
we live far from the dealer so we have to wait until monday to go back, due to work schedules. This is not fair they need to get it right the first time. We have other important things to do.
- Lost of Power while Driving, like I'm not stepping on the gas (engine never dies however) :sick:
- When Hard Accelerating, I feel the car stutter a bit
It was confirmed that I have a bad catalytic converter. And its going to cost $2800 to have it repaired!?!? :mad: I've been searching all over the web for a diagram, part, etc (with no luck), and will continue to call a few of the local muffler shops to see if they'll be able to do it, but has anyone had to replace this? My vehicle is an 04 XLS AWD, and unfortunately has 93K miles on it so its outside that federal replacement window.
Does anyone have a diagram of the cat flow, and why it costs so much to replace? Is there a way to buy the part from elsewhere and have it done? Can't seem to find it online anywhere so any guidance/links/support on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Definately keep us posted. I am very curious as to the cost to repair that.
could be a body seam could be a w/shield leak , sunroof ?
the a/c will leak if there is a lot of moisture in the air and you use either the a/c of the defrosters ( both activate the compressor) if it is only in the rain than i would look in a different direction
Also, the engine needs to be taken apart to replace the platinum-tipped spark plugs!
Anyone have any idea how carbon gets into solenoid vents in the ignition system?
Please see my message #385.
Thanks,
Brenda18
I have a 2005 Endeavor and when i turn it on lately i experience a loss of power while getting out of the parking and when i have to stop at stop signs when the car has just been turned on. Once i rev the engine and drive it for sometime its fine. But the other day i was leaving a park and had to stop at a stop sign before leaving and the car started losing power and eventually turned off. It would not start for like an hour!!! I took it to PepBoys and they said the battery and alternator were working fine...! Help!! Thanks!
I have a 04 Endevor with 203,000 miles on it. It has been a great car. I did not replace the original timing belt until 175,000 miles. I only did it then because I thought I was pushing my luck by having that many miles on the original. It was a mistake in my case. That belt lasted about 1,000 miles, had to have the engine rebuilt. The next one lasted less than 30,000, got lucky was stopped when it broke and did not have to do anything to the engine. I got less than 1,000 miles on it and am going to have to have the engine rebuilt again. Not sure what the problem is with replacing the belt but there must be a problem of some kind. So be careful. I had it done the first time at a local repair shop and this time had it done at dealer. Didn't seem to make a difference