Chrysler LHS

bb_lhs_2k

Take a look at this concept car, the chrysler LHX. Same color as my LHS; think I can modify my car to look like this LHX? :-)

http://www.car-truck.com/chryed/concept/lhx.htm

one2one

Chrysler recently announced that they will not be making cab-forward vehicles anymore (that is to say, after the current models run their course). If the LX is to begin production in less than a month, how would this fit into the corporate policy?

ottowrkr

Who ever told you that the LH cars not being built anymore is wrong. Friday June 29 is the last day for 2001 production and 2002 cars start July16. the current LH is to be built till 2003 model . Then the LX will be built as a 2004 model , it will be RW drive and have a V8 as an option Check out this link for more info...www.car-truck.com

mileshoover

ottowrkr -- the link you cite is for the 1996 LHX show car, an apparent prelude to the current LHS which you said will no longer be built. Are you saying that the 2004 model will be seeing the LHS again? Or is the current front/rear end going to be the LH series new look as you said for the 2002 model onward?

Doubt if you can do anything about it, but it sure would help its looks IF DC did something with the current placement of the front license plate on these cars. Unfortunately, some of us live in states which will not lose the front plate. Guess they want to keep the prisoners fully employed!!

Thanks for the info.

billgolfer09

My Garnet Red beauty now has 7,700 + miles. Taken two longish trips; one of about 380 miles (each way) and the other of about 1050 miles each way.

So far, ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEMS!! Not even one tiny little complaint. Have only been back to the dealer for oil changes.

A GREAT car! Very well built; fit and finish are excellent.

Wish more folks in the car mags would recognize what a terrific car this is.

ottowrkr

No the link I posted was for info on the 2004 LX cars ,recheck it www.car-truck.com/chryed/buzz/b062701.htm The previous post said that DC was cancelling the LH car NOW. All I said is the LH will be around till 2003 , then the LX car takes over.I have no idea if the LHS will be back for 2004? but as of today the last 2001 LH car was built and in 2002 there is no LHS. BUT the 2002 Concorde gets the front and rear styling from the LHS. For 2002 there are three packages LX ,LXI and Limited.

one2one

Here's the link from AutoNews.com. Zetsche "wants a new styling direction". Regarding next generation Chrysler large vehicles, the article said:

"The automaker's next generation of full-sized cars will have a new look to incorporate V-8 power and rear-wheel drive. Zetsche tipped his hand earlier this year. Speaking about the replacements for the Intrepid, Concorde and 300M, Zetsche said the new cars will have a "different and more appealing shape." The 2004 model year is targeted for the full-sized lineup."

I think my post may have been misinterpreted. I said "they will not be making cab-forward vehicles anymore (that is to say, after the current models run their course)". When the cars are redesigned, cab-forward will not be incorporated. At least according to the article. But we know how "accurate" they can be.

Personally LH cars didn't give me the room I needed at 6'8" (mostly legs). My knees were too close to the dash. In fact, I found it strange that I was completely comfortable in a Dodge Spirit than an LHS. I'm looking forward to seeing what new models will look like. Does anyone know if the Charger has been re-tagged for production?

golden51

Bought my 2000 LHS a year ago now and am still very happy with the car. Have yet to have ANY problems. I also purchased Chrysler's extended warranty on line at a great discount from dealership in Arizona. You can check easily if interested the url is autoinvoice.com. I hope not to need it but one major repair will make it a good investment.

bb_lhs_2k

I'm interested in a nice chrome license plate frame with "LHS" on it. I'd like to add one on the rear plate. Has anybody seen anything similar, if so, where? Thanks.

lonestarsled

I got a real nice one from a seller on eBay. It is stainless steel that is buffed to chrome with rolled edges, actually raps around the plate rather than just sitting on top of it. It sits perfectly in the license plate opening, but it does not have LHS engraved on it. I will see if this guy is still selling on eBay and post a URL or email address and you can contact him to see if he engraves.

lonestarsled

This is the exact one I got and from the same seller. I also got the optional anti-theft mounting screws, each one takes about 5 minutes to install because they are soooo damn long!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592956046&r=0&t=0

He also has a gold plated version now, but I think the natural stainless will look better:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1162164007

lonestarsled

I do not have a front plate on my car even though the state of Texas requires it. Just say no to front license plates!

bb_lhs_2k

Thanks, this frame looks really elegant. And if you like it and say it fits perfect, I guess it doesn't really matter if it has LHS engraved on it. I think I might pick it up from this guy too. The price seems right. (my front licence plate is off the car too, even though it's required in MA. I figure that I'll enjoy my front grill until I get ticketed and have to put the bracket back on).

scotian

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=9486000&p=49851482&f=0

Look at entire album for ordering & installation instructions.

newgmbuyer

Hi- Is anyone experiencing either of these two problems with their LFS? (Mine is a 2001)-
Overhead driver info center sometimes has the incorrect temperature display- on occasion it read 68 I when in fact is is more like 85 outside- this sometime lasts for 10-15 minutes and then jumps to the correct temperature. Also- I have this annoying squeak/creak coming from where the plastic trim around the center console cup holder goes under the plastic trim piece around the shift housing. Any suggestions on how to fix it? I hate to take it to the dealer for something like this- something usually end up worse than when I took it in.
Thanks

mileshoover

Regarding your temperature display -- I had a bad one on my '94LHS, took it to the dealer who replaced it. Appears as if you need to do the same.

Regarding your squeak/creak from the console -- suggest applying your hand or a rubber mallet appropriately and smartly to realign the pieces. If that doesn't work, suggest the dealer who can remove the pieces and realign them.

I understand your reluctance to go to the dealer, but a good one will fix the problems IF they can be replicated by the technician. If not, then begins the merry-go-round.

pat

Well, let me explain that there are a couple of better ways to get in touch with me. You can always email me - my profile is linked at the top of the main discussion list of the Sedans board, and from there you can get my email address. (Now that I am making this post, you can also get it by clicking on the link to my name in this post.)

Also, we have a "Welcome to the Sedans Message Board" discussion which is the perfect place for questions such as this.

But to address your specific issues, I have to wonder if something is going on with your ISP's access to Town Hall. I access Town Hall occasionally during the day from a T1 connection at work, and in the evening over a 56kbps dial up connection from home and have not experienced these problems at all before or after July 1.

I am a LAN administrator in my "day" job, and I know that it is entirely possible that your ISP may be having its own provider issues that may significantly degrade responses for some parts of the web. I also have many more timing issues with IE (any version) than I do Netscape (any version), but that is just my own personal experience.

I'll be happy to discuss this further, but let's either go to Welcome to the Sedans Message Board or you can click on my name and email me by getting the address from my profile.

Pat
Host
Sedans Message Boards

8to5

Newgmbuyer----I had a recall on my 2000 lhs they updated the software to correct irratic temperature readout and auto door locks. The red light on the dash didn't always come on. This could be your problem.

ocuihs

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The fun doesn't end on the course. After you've put the vehicles through their paces, there'll be interactive displays to enjoy, activities to participate in, and a full line of Chrysler vehicles to check out. Concept and historic Chrysler vehicles will be on-site, along with a golf range for you and putt-putt golf for the kids. A new PT Cruiser Tent will be set up this year. And, if all that isn't enough, you can drive the new Jeep Liberty at the Jeep 101 off-road course adjacent to the Chrysler Proving Grounds.

Chrysler Proving Grounds takes place August 16 to August 19 at Philadelphia Park. Sessions will be scheduled hourly from noon to 7pm on Thursday and Friday; 10am to 7pm on Saturday; and 10am to 5pm on Sunday. Choose the day and time that works best for you, and plan on making a two-hour time commitment. You must be 18 or older with a valid driver's license.

Space and time are limited. Call 1-888-TEST-CHRYSLER before August 10 to register.

Directions: Take the NJ Turnpike to Exit 6 (PA Turnpike). Follow west to Exit 28 (Philly, Route 1). On Route 1 South, proceed 1/8 mile to Street Road East (PA 132). Take Street Road for 2 miles to the track entrance (on the left). Follow the signs to event parking.

mileshoover

FWIW -- I was invited to subj event when the PT Cruiser was introduced. It was held in the WashDC area, was quite well done and most interesting, particularly that part which permitted those attending to drive any and all Chrysler vehicles.

Recommend anyone in the Philly area to go ck it out. As stated, there are no sales persons; however, sales is understood as the reason for the event. But no one harrasses the attendees.

bb_lhs_2k

I was detailing my LHS today, and happened to look underneath, and was very surprised to see my whole exhaust system (muffler and pipes) to be completely rusted. I mean the whole thing is brown. I thought the exhaust on the 2000 LHS was supposed to be stainless steel??

lonestarsled

Wow! are the pipes and mufflers actually "crusty" or does it appear to be just discolored? How many miles on the car?

From what I can tell on my '00 LHS the rear resonator and the flex pipe connecting to the rear transverse muffler are aluminized, not stainless.

bb_lhs_2k

I actually just hit 20k miles on it. It has been thru a rough winter last year, but I kept it in the garage the whole time and washed the chassis 3 to 4 times a week (really tried to take good care of it and get all the salt off immediately). I'm not sure if it's "crusty" yet, but it sure looks like it. I'll find out tomorrow when I get under there and try cleaning a spot, to see what's going on. I'll let you know.

bb_lhs_2k

You are right! the rear resonator and the flex pipe must be aluminized, because they are still very clean and new looking, no rust at all. But from the transverse muffler to the engine, everything is rusted. Not "crusty" yet, just surface discoloration, but it looks ugly compared to the aluminized part. I guess if it doesn't leak, and I can't see it, it doesn't matter.

lonestarsled

Hmmmmm..........I would have expected the complete opposite! I was in a discussion w/someone on the 300M forum stating that stainless is better than aluminized, but I did qualify my statement saying that there are different grades of stainless. Borla stainless exhaust systems come with a million mile warranty. Obvious DC stainless is not up to that standard.

I need to check mine, my car is low miles (7600 miles)and I live in the south, that is no salty winters, I have actually never even been caught in a hard rain with it. I will let you know.

saudi_prince

Firstly, let me say I am a big fan of the LHS. I bought one in 93 and had it for 7 years. No problems except a new trans at about 35K miles.

I got a great deal on a 2000 back in Jan of 2001 and have had a persistent problem with it from day one. Sometimes when I start the car, the steering makes a rhythmic clicking sound and you can actually feel a "kick" or "tug" on the wheel. This only happens when the car is stationary or under 15mph. Once I go over 15mph, the sound and tugging stop.

I bought it to the dealer the first time and they dismissed it with the infamous "couldn't detect the problem" excuse. It happened again when I was only a few miles from the dealer and test-drove it with the service manager. He said there is "definitely" a problem with the variable assist steering. Specifically the "solenoid" (spell?). They replaced the entire steering column and sure enough, the problem didn't go away.

They then replaced the body control module (BCM). (While this repair was going on, someone stole all 4 of my chrome wheels and tires when the car was in the service lot to the tune of $4,400 including some body damage, but this is another tale).

Lo and behold, the problem still hasn't gone away. I brought it back to the dealer and the morons again said that they couldn't detect the problem.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? If yes, does anyone have any idea what is causing the problem? I would appreciate any help or info on this problem. I am also posting this on the 300M board.

saudi_prince

Now about the tale of my wheels. When my car was in for servicing, someone helped themselves to my nice shiny chrome wheels. The thieves put the car up on cinder blocks, which caused damage to the front and side moldings. The total for replacing the wheels and the body damage came to about $4,500.

The dealer (Stevens of Milford, CT) said they were not responsible and I would have to go through my own insurance. In addition, they wouldn't pay my $250 deductible (I finally convinced them to pay half).

I urge anyone that is thinking of buying a car from Stevens or servicing their car there to realize that the lot is highly unsecured and that according to Milford, CT police, all of the surveillance cameras are inoperable.

To add insult to injury, they never were able to fix the problem with my car.

lonestarsled

Finally took a look at the exhaust today, the ss tubes look "tarnished", not really what I would call rust. And the aluminized parts do look more silver than the ss parts. I do recall that that was the way it looked like straight from the dealer. Typically galvanized steel mufflers would rust from the inside out, I would suspect the aluminized would do the same. But I guess only time will tell which parts will really out last which.

bb_lhs_2k

Thanks for the response. I guess I'll let you know, since my LHS will be enduring the rough New England weather, and I do drive it a lot.
Sorry, it took me a while to respond to you, but I was busy with the car, I finally ordered some Zaino. It really needed a coat of wax, and after reading and seeing the results of Zaino, I figured I'd try it. Unfortunately, I picked the wrong day to do it, it was 95 degrees and humid today. Sweaty day to wax a car.

bb_lhs_2k

Well, I got one coat of zaino on the LHS. It looks pretty good, I'm not sure if it's shinier than other good waxes, but I really like how easy it is to use. You don't have to wax one section at a time, you can do the whole car at once even in the Sun. And it doesn't leave white powder all over. We'll see how long it will last. Overall, I'm happy with it. Here's a pic of the car with one coat of zaino.

2000 LHS

Here's another pic of my custom Clock Face, thanks to Scotian.

Clock Face

lonestarsled

I can't see the pics

bb_lhs_2k

I don't know why, but I can't get the pics to display at photopoint. I'll try again.

bb_lhs_2k

Well here are the pictures, hopefully.

2000 LHS

Clock Face

toms99

Here's a view of my custom clockface:

Also courtesy of Scotian!

bb_lhs_2k

Looks good toms99!

I really like the wings on the clock, resembles the emblems we have on the grill and trunk.
I wonder why they took them away after the 99's.

I wish I had them, it looks sharp.

xlmac

I was taking a close look at the inflation specs on my recently-purchase 2000 LHS. The label inside the driver's side door lists proper inflation at 30 PSI. The treadwalls (Goodyear Eagle LS) say max inflation is 44 PSI. That's quite a big difference. I've read alot of literature that says you should always follow the manufacturer's inflation instructions - BUT, I'm also aware of the dangers of under-inflation. Any feedback would be appreciated.

lonestarsled

xlmac - You need to read the paragraph you just wrote because you answered your own question. The sidewall states MAX tire pressure of 44 psi, the key word being MAXIMUM - not recommended. Follow the label inside you door!!!! 30 PSI, maybe 32 PSI for a little firmer ride.

ottowrkr

you use max pressure when you have 5 people and a trunk full of stuff. 30-32 is all round air pressure.

newgmbuyer

I would stick with the recommended pressure as shown on the label in the drivers door- I don't think you should be anywhere near the max pressure as shown on the tire- even with a full load!
Question about a squeaky sunroof- for the first month or so everything was fine, but now whenever I am turning or going over a bumpy road the sunroof squeaks and creaks when it is closed- I know it's the rubber gasket/seal around the edges rubbing when the body flexes a little. Before I go trying silicone spay or armor all I figured I would check to see if anyone else has/had this problem.

mileshoover

newgmbuyer -- sun roofs need service at least annually; more depending upon the weather. The tracks need lube (lubriplate; the white stuff) and silicone spray on the rubber/plastic, around the rim. I wouldn't put Armorall on that stuff.

My squeeks turned out to be the deflector rubbing against the slot when seated home; just bend it a bit if yours is the problem.

toms99

here's my Wheelskins leather cover:

I used the "Baseball" stitch.

bb_lhs_2k

I saw a picture of your Wheelskin's leather cover on the 300M board. It looks excellent, nice work. I would like to know what colors you picked. It looks like it might be the Tan and Brown. Although the tan on the Wheelskins color chart looks much darker than yours and the sand color looks lighter. Which color would be closer to the wood trim of the car in your opinion?

I have the agate interior and I think a two-tone cover with the tan and charcoal would look sharp.

Similar to this one, from their site:

thanks.

mileshoover

Could you please describe how to do the baseball stitch?

Thanks.

td427

My fiancee recently purchased a 1997 LHS with approx 66000 miles. She loves the car, but on occasion it doesn't seem to shift into high gear. Tonight I was driving and the problem surfaced (I thought she was making it up). Normally the car shifts into high between 35 and 40 MPH. Tonight I was doing nearly 60 and it wouldn't shift (and was running over 4500 RPMs). Has anyone had similar problems and/or has Chrysler issued some sort of recall to correct it if its a chronic problem? I appreciate any answers even though I'm not real encouraged seeing others have had to replace transmissions at 30000 miles.

toms99

miles - here's the link for the "BaseBall" stitch instructions:

http://www.dccarcare.com/tipowk19.html

bb-lhs - you are correct...I used tan and brown. There was no exact match for the camel, so I went for a 2-tone "earth-tone" scheme, and it blends in great!

bb_lhs_2k

I just added the LHS nameplate to the trunk of the car. I think it looks good. People are always asking me, what kind of car is it. Hopefully, that might help : )

Also, with the 2002 Concords looking exactly like the LHS, I figured that would immediately badge it as an LHS.

kjoo

The name change is because no ones buying the lhs so the name will be 2002 concord limited........LHS

ottowrkr

Hope you dont mind me asking but what did they charge you for that sticker $ and did you get it at a dealer ? .

bb_lhs_2k

I hope you approve ; )
You should like it. I'm adding emblems, instead of taking them off. Anyway, I did get it at a dealer, and I paid about $18 for it. (just curious, why do you want to know?)

ottowrkr

just wanted to know what DC was getting for this item. I had heard that it was like 50 $ When you work in a place that has tons of parts you never realize what they cost. Thanks.