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Ford Expedition engine cutting off while driving

floody3floody3 Posts: 2
edited May 2015 in Ford
I have a 2003 Expedition; it has been cutting off while driving. 6 times. Taken it to the Ford dealership each time and they can't figure it out. At first they took a guess that it might be the fuel pump; wasn't going to spend $700+ on a guess. Then they said after the it broke down on them it was the fuse box. Just replaced the fuse box; picked up the vehicle and was driving home and it cut out on us again. With the exception of last night the dome lights and radio lights have been on, but this last time everything was off and it took 20 minutes for it to restart. VERY frustrating that the dealership can't find the answer.

See Also: Ford Expedition Electrical Problems
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Comments

  • macitmacit Posts: 2
    It is the fuse relay. At Ford Dealership, the item is listed part # F5TZ*14N089*B RELAY LIST PRICE $16.24. This relay has been replaced twice in our 2003 Ford Expedition. We were on the interstate when our vehicle shut down completely and had hard time maneuvering it. Vehicle would turn on and off. Always keep one in stock in vehicle.
  • bluyobluyo Posts: 1
    Hi, mine has aproblem where the lights start dimming and the gauge the marks the electrical power starts going down until it goes dead..... but if I stop accelerating the power goes up? is this the same problem you have? Thanks!
  • That sounds like an alternator going bad.
  • rebsallenrebsallen Posts: 1
    Same problem. Replaced the fuel pump, battery, and relay. This has consistently continued after all of that. Something has to keep the relay going bad over and over if that's what it is.
  • I have the same issue. Did you find a resolution?

    Thanks!!!!
  • floody3floody3 Posts: 2
    i had to get a new fuse box
  • I have a1997 ford exp. I have never had this problem before. the first time it did this i thought it was the fuel pump. I replaced it and it still is doing it. Now we found out that i keep blowing the fues. And everytime i put one in it blow again. Did anyone find a short some where. So i didnt even need a fuel pump it was the fues all the time. :mad:
  • fnoelfnoel Posts: 4
    edited October 2010
    Hey guys, mines recently started to randomly die at any speed or at idle. Ive cleaned MAF sensor with sensor cleaner, changed air filter and fuel filter, oil change, and lucas injector treatment. The problem went away for about a month then came back with vengeance!!. It now stall out 10 minutes on the DOT after starting... after idle or driving. That tells me its not mechanical and must be something electrical getting hot and shorting out or losing contact. Usually its starts back up and I floor it to wherever I have to go with no problems but past two weeks it wouldnt start back up and had it towed twice. First mechanic said its losing fuel pressure before it cuts out, he held it for the night and he couldnt repeat the problem after letting it run for almost 2 hours with the gauges on. Picked it up drove it fine for a week, then died doing 55 this afternoon after smelling what i thought was my amp getting hot but was the FUSE PANEL. I immediately pull over and pull off the fuse panel and smelled something burning and seeing a little grey smoke. I was excited not mad that the problem maybe showed its hand, so I towed it to another shop a few hours go. I am in NO WAY thread jacking, just giving my you guys my 2 cents and also looking for a solution like the thread starter. I have a fuel pump coming from ebay, and im also thinking about the fuel pump driver module which can fry the fuse box (google the problems about the F-150), and of course fuse box. (All of course if the truck stays dead and not come back alive and the mechanic doesnt find the problem). I hope the truck stays dead, makes it easier to find the problem. Thanx guys for any suggestions. 5.4/E.B
  • I have finally fixed my stalling problem in my 2003 ford expedition and wanted to share the repair with you, first of all for the safety of our families, and the cost of everything the mechanics think is wrong (even most ford mechanics are not aware of this fix) I have been lucky and never did the coil packs, fuel pump and new throttle body and valve. I did waste money on the camshaft sensor and IAC control valve; I did keep the old one so I have a back up if I need it in the future. I didn’t try the high octane fuel fix because I heard of this year throwing spark plugs which are big bucks to repair. Putting on this part and looking at the old one makes me think I didn’t even need a new one, but didn’t know what to expect when I bought it. The bracket connects the alternator to the positive terminal on your battery. If you start at the battery + terminal it has 2 red wires coming out of it. They are both usually red and about the same thickness. One of them goes into a long black rectangle clip that says “fusable Link” or something like that. Then comes out the other side and goes to the alternator. Past the fusable link box there will be 2 wires that split off of this wire. If you are in front of the truck one wire runs towards you and is pretty short. It plugs into another wire. The second wire is longer and it runs away from you THIS IS the wire you need to follow. It runs back towards the battery into a plug under it. Follow this wire from where it comes off of the big wire. You will find it resting on a silver/aluminum tube (its an AC pipe) Flip the wire over where it is touching this pipe, you will find the wire is rubbed down to the bare metal!!! It is randomly shorting out your engine and you will STALL. If I didn’t by the part I would try to tape it up, tape the pipe it rests on as well or get some foam tubing for the pipe, if the wires are too worn, looks like you could always use a wire nut.
    Your Are WELCOME
  • I've got a 98 5.4l 4x4 with 139k miles. Initially the problem started with the PATS system failing...turn the car off and could not get the car started again as the alarm system armed itself. Had the keys and ignition reprogrammed and seem to fix the problem. Shortly after the engine would stutter and sometimes stall and would restart. Took back to our guy and we were having a devil of time repeating the experience. Eventually he finds a lose ignition wire and believes that was the fix. A mile from the shop it dies again. He comes back out and takes it back to his shop. After doing some investigation he lands on the BCM or what Ford calls the GEM, after testing it he says it is okay but then finds his way to the ECM, electronic control module. He removed it had it tested and the read was it was shorting out causing the engine stutter and engine cutting off. He looking for the right code for ECM and should have it back next week but that said wondering if anybody else with the same problem landed on the ECM as the culprit??
  • my expedition dies out every once in a while sound like fuel problem but when i start it up it idles fine revs fine drive for couple of hours then same thing again loses power and just dies rpm jus bounces on gauge then start it again sometime fine sometime not fine when its fine drive back on the road again good for a week then happens again same thing dies out not good for my family and kids its freakin me out was that the same symptoms you were having with yours mechanic said its puzzling please let me know thanks
  • finding the correct code for the ECM seemed to be the issue so he found a place that rebuilds them. Finally picked it up today and she rides like a champ....fingers crossed that fixed it !!
  • deemac98deemac98 Posts: 1
    Thanks man. I was having terrible trouble with my car and was completely stumped until me and mechanic read ur post. Thanks so much man. Ur post is greatly appreciated. Daniel Cormier
  • My 2002 Expedition quit on me today, but the engine won't turn over now. No tell-tell signs of the engine locking up. A mechanic told me that the cam shaft was about to going bad by listening to the tick in the motor. I was told that if the cam broke the engine would still turn over. There are no leaks. There IS oil in it. Is it electrical? Please help.
  • jorgemlhjorgemlh Posts: 1
    Thank you for all the Usefull Information, my 2001 for expedition had the same problem will start and die witn in 3 minutes. i was getting ready to tow my truck to a mechanic and guess what lol, the problem was fuse #4 a 7.5 Amp that was burn and my problem was fixed thank you edmunds Community and God bless. :)
  • arkiejimarkiejim Posts: 1
    Thanks a million, Tony!!!! You saved me a trip to the dealership! That wire is EXACTLY what my problem was!!! There are even burn marks on that A/C line! I'm going to tape it up and use a plastic tie to keep it away from that line.
    Mine was perplexing because the engine only stalled when we were running the A/C! And here in Georgia it is already hitting the high 90's, so it was getting to be a REAL pain in the behind!
    I'll be eternally grateful for a day or two!
    ArkieJim
    PS...I'm new to Georgia. I'm originally from Arkansas, hence the handle.
  • buildit2209buildit2209 Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    this has happen to me a few times so i will tell my meahanic about this. i learned that now i can keep running 70 just put the car in neutrel and shut the engine completley off and back on agian it starts right back up and running back at 70 . its pretty scary when u have a semi on ur [non-permissible content removed] though... but thanks i will have him take a look at that.
  • majicdawnmajicdawn Posts: 2
    edited August 2011
    My expedition runs great, but lately it has been cutting out, we found that if you open the gas cap it idles back up.it makes a scary sucking noise tho.....drove it 50 miles the other day in the rain and it didn't do it once, but when its hot out it seems to do it alot... ...Has anyone else had this problem? Or does anyone know how to fix it? :confuse:
  • I just wanted to say thanks for the info. My 2003 ford Expedition was shutting off randomly and I could not find the problem - nethier could the ford dealer - I gave them one try. I read the forums and decided to check the electrical wires that are on top of the aluminum tube that is next to the battery. As I was checking the wire, I felt the copper strands poking my finger. That was it!. This must be a common problem that is not very noticable by looking under the hood. I just wanted to say thanks. You saved me a lot of time and money.
  • I have a 2001 it starts missing while driving under a load it runs fine while it is in park.Has anyone suggested a fix for this????
  • How many miles on it? That sounds like it is probably a coil pack going bad. Could take a while for a CEL light to come on. I drove for a 1000 miles waiting, and finally did the coil packs before the light came on. The dealer was able to see pending codes for misfires, so it was going to come on eventually.
  • Thank you I did a scan today and it was # 5 mis fire I replaced the coil and it is fine. Thank you
  • Cool. It's always nice to hear back. You might expect others will start to go out on you now as well. Might want to get a set to have on hand. You can get an 8 pack of aftermarket ones on ebay for around 90 bucks that include the coils, boots and springs as opposed to Ford parts that are 90 each.
  • I have had the fuel pump replaced and changed out the coil wire. I havent had any engine codes . It doesnt do it all the time but twice now it has completely shut off. Does anyone have any idea
  • My 2003 Expedition would do this for years. I was so use to it that I would put it in neutral and start it up before I came to a stop. My wife was not able to drive the Expedition. Once I replaced the fuse box the problem went away. I was able to open up the fuse box and found the burnt area on the board. Replacing the fuse box should solve the problem for randomly cutting out.
  • Thanks for the info. Is it the fuse box under the hood or under the dash?
  • daphnebdaphneb Posts: 1
    When your engine was stalling because of the wire rubbing on the AC pipe would the engine start back up? We have replaced so many parts and it is still cutting off.I'm ready to go to work tomorrow and check out the wire. Hope thats the problem.
  • Just looked at my wire and found some bare threads also. At first I was looking at the wrong Aluminum pipe, u shaped one, but then followed the the instructions more closely and found exposed wires on the underside of the cable. Have taped them up and hoping it's the fix. Thanks!!!
  • ljzljz Posts: 1
    2003 Ford Expedition started normally and then quit when I pulled on road. Smelled gas and appeared to be leak near rear passenger tire. Turns over fine but wont start. Where should I start looking; I'm confused by what appears to be a gas leak near that right rear tire?
  • dnyce2udnyce2u Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    2003 Ford Expedition Starts an run great. Only until i go run my errands im out the vehicle the truck MUST to stay on or it will not start back up until an hour later! Something is needing to cool off in order for the truck to start back up again. Ford can not figure out the reason why the dealership where i got the SUV from cant either. Both places has gone as far as putting a FUEL PUMP,THERMOSTAT,RADIATOR CLAMP,one more part i cant think right now. its been in the shop over 10 times the longest they have keep the vehicle is 1wk an 3days an that's when they only put in the THERMOSTAT. and i`m still having over heating problems still cant turn my truck off ck engine lights coming on. Please give me some answers!
  • I have a 2001 Ford Expedition, my power windows, air vents/ A/C also does not work. My dash lights, turn signals, 4 way flashers dont work when my headlights are on . HELP Please.
  • My expedition will not go over 40mph. The tranny seems to be slipping put isnt throwing any codes. The only codes I am getting are for the fuel system. I changed the fuel pump, filter and pressure regulater and nothing changed. Does any one have any ideas.
  • Coils and plugs maybe?
  • cpitkincpitkin Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    My 2003 5.4 Expedition Eddie Bauer was losing power and stalling intermittently for about a year. Same kind of issue as described here on this thread, stalling and restarting almost right away. It would be fine for a couple months and then stall out frequently, then it would be ok for awhile. No codes, no check engine light.
    I replaced the battery cable so many have mentioned which was rubbing on the AC pipe. The replacement cable from the dealer has a braided anti-chafe cable so that is a good part to replace regardless.. I also had the PCM programed by the dealer and yet it kept stalling.

    This month it started to stall on a much more regular basis and I was able to get it to happen on my mechanic's watch. He had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and it was losing pressure at stall. He figured it was the pressure regulator or part of the entire fuel pump assembly. There is no fuel pump control module as in newer models, the PCM controls the fuel pump from what I understand. So he replaced the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank., but the next day it hesitated at highway speeds twice and then stalled out at low speeds twice. uhg!

    Upon looking into the fuel issue more I came across these two threads...one with a complete no-run and one with an intermittent.
    http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2011/03/2003-ford-expedition-no-run-no-fuel.html
    http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1149113-help-fuse-box-replacement-2003-eddie-b- - auer-expedition.html

    Both authors describe a bad fuse box design, either from a windshield seal allowing moisture into the box or a bad circuit board design. I ordered an OEM fuse box from here:
    http://www.autopartscheaper.com/2003-Ford-Expedition-Fuse-Central-Junction-Box-j- - un-p/3l1z-14a068-aa.htm

    They had it in stock and $60 less than dealer price. The part came in a Ford Factory sealed box with all new fuses and relays installed. Installation took less than 30 minutes. I didn't take the time to disassemble the box to get to the relay. I'm guessing though that since I have yet to have the truck stall again and have replaced every other part in the fuel system I finally have found the issue. My mechanic did believe that the fuel pump assembly may have been the root cause of the relay overheating. Saying that if it was drawing too many amps and the relay was soldered on it could have been the reason for it to lose connectivity. I guess that plausible. I would have the amperage draw tested before replacing the fuse box just to ensure the fuel pump assembly is OK and that you don't blow another $300 fuse box.
  • I was having the same problem with my truck. I recently changed out the fuel pump relay and changed the fuel filter. So far the truck hasn't cutoff.
  • I found the wire that was causing the engine to stall at low & high speed, taped it good with electrical tape, made sure no electrical wiring(s) are touching the aluminum freon pipes but my Expedition continue to stall. I hooked up my scanner to check my I/M monitors, I have no check engine light, & my evap system is "incomplete" (rest are "OK"). Also I noticed my idle speed is slightly low between 750-800 rpm at start up & down 700 rpm at warm temp. So I took off the air intake assembly & did a visual check. I found the fuel vapor separator tube (hose) is deteriorated, Ford Motorcraft part #9D289, that connect to the vapor canister purge valve part #9C915. It's dealer only item & would you believe it cost $57.18? http://www.fordparts.com/Default.aspx Cleaned the throttle & intake & sensor connectors with CRC spray cleaners. Then I went to Pep Boys & got me a 3/8" I.D. X 2' of fuel line hose for $4.49 plus tax to replace the fuel vapor separator hose. My rpm now is around 1K rpm at start up and around 800 rpm at operating temp. Drove it around the neighborhood, no problem. It's idling fine.......Test drive at high speed (freeway) in an hour. Wish me luck.
  • Found this video on You Tube video, hope it help you find that fuel vapor hose.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_LX9TGtGKY

    Mine is fixed. I did visual & wiggle tests, got lucky & saved a lot on expensive suspect defective sensors & parts. I did replaced my in-line fuel filter but that's overdue. Other than that, I spent $4.49 for the temporary fuel line hose but ordered the oem Ford 9D289 fuel separator hose & for 2 cans of CRC Throttle Body & Electrical Parts/Connector Cleaners.

    Good luck.
  • Hello,

    I read your post but I am having a hard time finding the wires. I was hoping you knew the names of those wires so I can you tube or google it and see how I am able to fix my car. I am having the same exact problems you were having. I to have a 2003 Ford Expedition. Thank you!!
  • isnideisnide Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, took it in for repeated diagnostic. Of course it never dies while at the dealer or my regular mechanic. It finally dies and would not re start. I had the dealer test for power all the way back to the fuel pump. Turned out it was the fuel pump relay. Had to replace the whole interior fuse panel.
    Just glad it finally got figured out
  • joeg8joeg8 Posts: 3
    The guys at the dealership couldn't find the cause for this issue.
    Said I have to start the elimination process by changing the fuel pump and some other stuff quoted at around $1500 total.
    Didn't do it.
    Last week it died again and I couldn't start it.
    Had it towed to PepBoys in Thousand Oaks CA .
    The guys their spend almost two days to diagnose what is the real problem.
    Eventually they said it is most likely the interior fuse panel.
    They got a new one - and the car works great.
    Cost: $415 for an original Ford fuse box
    Installation and diagnostic: $250
    Total: $665
    Very happy with Pep boys!
  • I have a 2005 that cuts out on take off this usually only occurs when building speed to get up to hiway speeds of 60 or so. Never cuts out in town or city driving always only when accelerating once cutting out starts I push the gas hard and it comes right out of it then runs fine until I slow down and have to accelerate again. This thing has got me stumped. I did air filter change, injector and fuel system cleaner. and no change...please help....
  • How many miles? It sounds like a misfire. Do you have a check engine light? If not you may want to have a place with a good scanner read it for pending codes. It will likely show the misfires and what cylinders are doing it. From there I would look at plugs and COPs.
  • 114,000 I did an ohm reading today on cop's all read between .07 and .08 except for one, and it read .06. Which tells me that would be the one to replace if any. Also went and had it put on machine "no codes found", they told me if it wasn't a misfire that is constant it might not throw a code". also I found today that if I take the overdrive off the miss is still there but not as noticable. is this normal? I thought maybe tranny issues since the overdrive calmed it alittle, but this thing is a smooth shifter, and no slipping of any kind almost seems like it has to be a cop? whats your thoughts?
  • I still think it is a classic description of a bad COP. Where did you have it scanned? A discount store will not be able to read pending codes, where a dealer can. A misfire may not immediately set the CEL but will be logged in pending codes.
  • The engine would stall once only every 3 or4 months or so and crank back up right away, but yesterday it shut off 5 times while my wife was driving and that means "fIX RIGHT NOW"
    I found the wire chaffed completely to the copper right where you said it would be on the A/C tubing near the battery and I taped it up and repositioned it so as not have the problem reoccur.
    Thanks a lot
  • retrosdretrosd Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    After a few scary incidents of our 2003 Ford Expedition shutting down (including on the freeway) it finally did not start. Although the engine turned, it appeared it was not getting any fuel. I had an ASE mechanic look at it and though it was the fuel pump which I ordered for $160 from rockauto.com (ordered on a Friday and received on Monday!). The pump was replaced but it still didn't start.

    He then looked at the fuse junction box and it appeared to be burned out. In my research, I found the following:

    The original Fuse boxes installed in these Trucks had 2 major problems. The First is the windshield leak problem. These trucks had a bad seal from the factory that allowed rain to drip down on the passenger side of the truck at the bottom corner of the windshield. The water leaks directly into the fuse box, ruining the circuitry

    The Second problem is just a poorly engineered part when the car was new. These circuit boards were poorly made, and after a few years of heat and cold, the relays fail to function any more. There are no repairable parts in this fuse box as all the relays are soldered to the circuit boards; the whole fuse box must be replaced.

    Read more at: link title

    Also, in speaking with my local junkyards, they can't even keep these in stock due to this known problem.

    The part (Ford Part # 3L1Z14A068AA) was $371 plus tax from my local Ford dealer however, I found the box for $260 (no tax) and paid for two day shipping for a total of $300 from Olathe Ford link title. PROBLEM FIXED within minutes and we are now back on the road.
  • pinon1pinon1 Posts: 1
    Hi im having the same problem with my 2003 ford expedition. Did replacing the fuse box fix your problem for sure? I've already put in alot of money and work into mine so was wondering if it fixed the problem on yours. Please help
  • no it did not. Basically I took it to Ford, they kept it for a week to find out where the problem was, and it was in the wiring harness, melted. They wanted $1500 to fix it and they still weren't sure if that was going to fix the problem.
  • johnm32johnm32 Posts: 1

    My wife has an '03 Ford Expedition with 110k miles on it. It began dying while driving. Usually when stopping or idling. She would describe that sometimes when it began acting like it was going to die she could "give it gas" and it would revive, other times that wouldn't work. It would usually restart after one or two tries. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. During a trip she began hearing a sound of "metal shredding" and the car died and wouldn't restart. She had it towed to a Ford dealer. They replaced the IAC valve. After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another Ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump, filter and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
    It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.
    Any ideas?

  • johnm32,
    What you describe is the exact issue I have with my 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 180k. I HAVENT attempted any repairs and or replacement of parts yet. After it dies, I typically wait 30 seconds and then it starts right back up. If I attempt to start it immediatley after it dies, the motor just turns over but wont start (must wait about 15-30 seconds). Some days it will die only once, other days 3-6 times all within an hours and then it seems to be good. It may drive fine for days, maybe a couple weeks before it dies again. My idle is only about 650 warmed up, not sure if thats where it should be for this vehicle but seems a bit low to me (could be why the motor seems a lil bit ruff at idle...? not bad but just slightly....
    I havent checked the battery wire along the AC line everyones refering to and I havent looked at the fuse panel issue...(i guess the fuse panel is same in lincoln navigators as it is ford expeditions)
    My shade tree theory was that "maybe"...just maybe, seeing as I have to wait a half minute or so before it will start back up (I typically leave the iginition key on during this wait time) that maybe I am loosing fuel pressure and with the ignition key on, it allows the pump to build pressure back up, allowing it to start up again. Just a theory and not a diagnoses......?
    I guess I will start looking over some of the things mentioned here in hopes of saving some coin.

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