Ford Expedition engine cutting off while driving
I have a 2003 Expedition; it has been cutting off while driving. 6 times. Taken it to the Ford dealership each time and they can't figure it out. At first they took a guess that it might be the fuel pump; wasn't going to spend $700+ on a guess. Then they said after the it broke down on them it was the fuse box. Just replaced the fuse box; picked up the vehicle and was driving home and it cut out on us again. With the exception of last night the dome lights and radio lights have been on, but this last time everything was off and it took 20 minutes for it to restart. VERY frustrating that the dealership can't find the answer.
See Also: Ford Expedition Electrical Problems
See Also: Ford Expedition Electrical Problems
Your Are WELCOME
Mine was perplexing because the engine only stalled when we were running the A/C! And here in Georgia it is already hitting the high 90's, so it was getting to be a REAL pain in the behind!
I'll be eternally grateful for a day or two!
PS...I'm new to Georgia. I'm originally from Arkansas, hence the handle.
I replaced the battery cable so many have mentioned which was rubbing on the AC pipe. The replacement cable from the dealer has a braided anti-chafe cable so that is a good part to replace regardless.. I also had the PCM programed by the dealer and yet it kept stalling.
This month it started to stall on a much more regular basis and I was able to get it to happen on my mechanic's watch. He had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and it was losing pressure at stall. He figured it was the pressure regulator or part of the entire fuel pump assembly. There is no fuel pump control module as in newer models, the PCM controls the fuel pump from what I understand. So he replaced the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank., but the next day it hesitated at highway speeds twice and then stalled out at low speeds twice. uhg!
Upon looking into the fuel issue more I came across these two threads...one with a complete no-run and one with an intermittent.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1149113-help-fuse-box-replacement-2003-eddie-b- - auer-expedition.html
Both authors describe a bad fuse box design, either from a windshield seal allowing moisture into the box or a bad circuit board design. I ordered an OEM fuse box from here:
http://www.autopartscheaper.com/2003-Ford-Expedition-Fuse-Central-Junction-Box-j- - un-p/3l1z-14a068-aa.htm
They had it in stock and $60 less than dealer price. The part came in a Ford Factory sealed box with all new fuses and relays installed. Installation took less than 30 minutes. I didn't take the time to disassemble the box to get to the relay. I'm guessing though that since I have yet to have the truck stall again and have replaced every other part in the fuel system I finally have found the issue. My mechanic did believe that the fuel pump assembly may have been the root cause of the relay overheating. Saying that if it was drawing too many amps and the relay was soldered on it could have been the reason for it to lose connectivity. I guess that plausible. I would have the amperage draw tested before replacing the fuse box just to ensure the fuel pump assembly is OK and that you don't blow another $300 fuse box.
Mine is fixed. I did visual & wiggle tests, got lucky & saved a lot on expensive suspect defective sensors & parts. I did replaced my in-line fuel filter but that's overdue. Other than that, I spent $4.49 for the temporary fuel line hose but ordered the oem Ford 9D289 fuel separator hose & for 2 cans of CRC Throttle Body & Electrical Parts/Connector Cleaners.
I read your post but I am having a hard time finding the wires. I was hoping you knew the names of those wires so I can you tube or google it and see how I am able to fix my car. I am having the same exact problems you were having. I to have a 2003 Ford Expedition. Thank you!!
Just glad it finally got figured out
Said I have to start the elimination process by changing the fuel pump and some other stuff quoted at around $1500 total.
Didn't do it.
Last week it died again and I couldn't start it.
Had it towed to PepBoys in Thousand Oaks CA .
The guys their spend almost two days to diagnose what is the real problem.
Eventually they said it is most likely the interior fuse panel.
They got a new one - and the car works great.
Cost: $415 for an original Ford fuse box
Installation and diagnostic: $250
Very happy with Pep boys!
I found the wire chaffed completely to the copper right where you said it would be on the A/C tubing near the battery and I taped it up and repositioned it so as not have the problem reoccur.
Thanks a lot
He then looked at the fuse junction box and it appeared to be burned out. In my research, I found the following:
The original Fuse boxes installed in these Trucks had 2 major problems. The First is the windshield leak problem. These trucks had a bad seal from the factory that allowed rain to drip down on the passenger side of the truck at the bottom corner of the windshield. The water leaks directly into the fuse box, ruining the circuitry
The Second problem is just a poorly engineered part when the car was new. These circuit boards were poorly made, and after a few years of heat and cold, the relays fail to function any more. There are no repairable parts in this fuse box as all the relays are soldered to the circuit boards; the whole fuse box must be replaced.
Read more at: link title
Also, in speaking with my local junkyards, they can't even keep these in stock due to this known problem.
The part (Ford Part # 3L1Z14A068AA) was $371 plus tax from my local Ford dealer however, I found the box for $260 (no tax) and paid for two day shipping for a total of $300 from Olathe Ford link title. PROBLEM FIXED within minutes and we are now back on the road.
My wife has an '03 Ford Expedition with 110k miles on it. It began dying while driving. Usually when stopping or idling. She would describe that sometimes when it began acting like it was going to die she could "give it gas" and it would revive, other times that wouldn't work. It would usually restart after one or two tries. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. During a trip she began hearing a sound of "metal shredding" and the car died and wouldn't restart. She had it towed to a Ford dealer. They replaced the IAC valve. After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another Ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump, filter and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.
What you describe is the exact issue I have with my 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 180k. I HAVENT attempted any repairs and or replacement of parts yet. After it dies, I typically wait 30 seconds and then it starts right back up. If I attempt to start it immediatley after it dies, the motor just turns over but wont start (must wait about 15-30 seconds). Some days it will die only once, other days 3-6 times all within an hours and then it seems to be good. It may drive fine for days, maybe a couple weeks before it dies again. My idle is only about 650 warmed up, not sure if thats where it should be for this vehicle but seems a bit low to me (could be why the motor seems a lil bit ruff at idle...? not bad but just slightly....
I havent checked the battery wire along the AC line everyones refering to and I havent looked at the fuse panel issue...(i guess the fuse panel is same in lincoln navigators as it is ford expeditions)
My shade tree theory was that "maybe"...just maybe, seeing as I have to wait a half minute or so before it will start back up (I typically leave the iginition key on during this wait time) that maybe I am loosing fuel pressure and with the ignition key on, it allows the pump to build pressure back up, allowing it to start up again. Just a theory and not a diagnoses......?
I guess I will start looking over some of the things mentioned here in hopes of saving some coin.