Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Expedition engine cutting off while driving



  • I have a 2001 Ford Expedition, my power windows, air vents/ A/C also does not work. My dash lights, turn signals, 4 way flashers dont work when my headlights are on . HELP Please.
  • My expedition will not go over 40mph. The tranny seems to be slipping put isnt throwing any codes. The only codes I am getting are for the fuel system. I changed the fuel pump, filter and pressure regulater and nothing changed. Does any one have any ideas.
  • Coils and plugs maybe?
  • cpitkincpitkin Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    My 2003 5.4 Expedition Eddie Bauer was losing power and stalling intermittently for about a year. Same kind of issue as described here on this thread, stalling and restarting almost right away. It would be fine for a couple months and then stall out frequently, then it would be ok for awhile. No codes, no check engine light.
    I replaced the battery cable so many have mentioned which was rubbing on the AC pipe. The replacement cable from the dealer has a braided anti-chafe cable so that is a good part to replace regardless.. I also had the PCM programed by the dealer and yet it kept stalling.

    This month it started to stall on a much more regular basis and I was able to get it to happen on my mechanic's watch. He had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and it was losing pressure at stall. He figured it was the pressure regulator or part of the entire fuel pump assembly. There is no fuel pump control module as in newer models, the PCM controls the fuel pump from what I understand. So he replaced the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank., but the next day it hesitated at highway speeds twice and then stalled out at low speeds twice. uhg!

    Upon looking into the fuel issue more I came across these two with a complete no-run and one with an intermittent. - auer-expedition.html

    Both authors describe a bad fuse box design, either from a windshield seal allowing moisture into the box or a bad circuit board design. I ordered an OEM fuse box from here: - un-p/3l1z-14a068-aa.htm

    They had it in stock and $60 less than dealer price. The part came in a Ford Factory sealed box with all new fuses and relays installed. Installation took less than 30 minutes. I didn't take the time to disassemble the box to get to the relay. I'm guessing though that since I have yet to have the truck stall again and have replaced every other part in the fuel system I finally have found the issue. My mechanic did believe that the fuel pump assembly may have been the root cause of the relay overheating. Saying that if it was drawing too many amps and the relay was soldered on it could have been the reason for it to lose connectivity. I guess that plausible. I would have the amperage draw tested before replacing the fuse box just to ensure the fuel pump assembly is OK and that you don't blow another $300 fuse box.
  • I was having the same problem with my truck. I recently changed out the fuel pump relay and changed the fuel filter. So far the truck hasn't cutoff.
  • I found the wire that was causing the engine to stall at low & high speed, taped it good with electrical tape, made sure no electrical wiring(s) are touching the aluminum freon pipes but my Expedition continue to stall. I hooked up my scanner to check my I/M monitors, I have no check engine light, & my evap system is "incomplete" (rest are "OK"). Also I noticed my idle speed is slightly low between 750-800 rpm at start up & down 700 rpm at warm temp. So I took off the air intake assembly & did a visual check. I found the fuel vapor separator tube (hose) is deteriorated, Ford Motorcraft part #9D289, that connect to the vapor canister purge valve part #9C915. It's dealer only item & would you believe it cost $57.18? Cleaned the throttle & intake & sensor connectors with CRC spray cleaners. Then I went to Pep Boys & got me a 3/8" I.D. X 2' of fuel line hose for $4.49 plus tax to replace the fuel vapor separator hose. My rpm now is around 1K rpm at start up and around 800 rpm at operating temp. Drove it around the neighborhood, no problem. It's idling fine.......Test drive at high speed (freeway) in an hour. Wish me luck.
  • Found this video on You Tube video, hope it help you find that fuel vapor hose.

    Mine is fixed. I did visual & wiggle tests, got lucky & saved a lot on expensive suspect defective sensors & parts. I did replaced my in-line fuel filter but that's overdue. Other than that, I spent $4.49 for the temporary fuel line hose but ordered the oem Ford 9D289 fuel separator hose & for 2 cans of CRC Throttle Body & Electrical Parts/Connector Cleaners.

    Good luck.
  • Hello,

    I read your post but I am having a hard time finding the wires. I was hoping you knew the names of those wires so I can you tube or google it and see how I am able to fix my car. I am having the same exact problems you were having. I to have a 2003 Ford Expedition. Thank you!!
  • isnideisnide Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, took it in for repeated diagnostic. Of course it never dies while at the dealer or my regular mechanic. It finally dies and would not re start. I had the dealer test for power all the way back to the fuel pump. Turned out it was the fuel pump relay. Had to replace the whole interior fuse panel.
    Just glad it finally got figured out
  • joeg8joeg8 Posts: 3
    The guys at the dealership couldn't find the cause for this issue.
    Said I have to start the elimination process by changing the fuel pump and some other stuff quoted at around $1500 total.
    Didn't do it.
    Last week it died again and I couldn't start it.
    Had it towed to PepBoys in Thousand Oaks CA .
    The guys their spend almost two days to diagnose what is the real problem.
    Eventually they said it is most likely the interior fuse panel.
    They got a new one - and the car works great.
    Cost: $415 for an original Ford fuse box
    Installation and diagnostic: $250
    Total: $665
    Very happy with Pep boys!
  • I have a 2005 that cuts out on take off this usually only occurs when building speed to get up to hiway speeds of 60 or so. Never cuts out in town or city driving always only when accelerating once cutting out starts I push the gas hard and it comes right out of it then runs fine until I slow down and have to accelerate again. This thing has got me stumped. I did air filter change, injector and fuel system cleaner. and no change...please help....
  • How many miles? It sounds like a misfire. Do you have a check engine light? If not you may want to have a place with a good scanner read it for pending codes. It will likely show the misfires and what cylinders are doing it. From there I would look at plugs and COPs.
  • 114,000 I did an ohm reading today on cop's all read between .07 and .08 except for one, and it read .06. Which tells me that would be the one to replace if any. Also went and had it put on machine "no codes found", they told me if it wasn't a misfire that is constant it might not throw a code". also I found today that if I take the overdrive off the miss is still there but not as noticable. is this normal? I thought maybe tranny issues since the overdrive calmed it alittle, but this thing is a smooth shifter, and no slipping of any kind almost seems like it has to be a cop? whats your thoughts?
  • I still think it is a classic description of a bad COP. Where did you have it scanned? A discount store will not be able to read pending codes, where a dealer can. A misfire may not immediately set the CEL but will be logged in pending codes.
  • The engine would stall once only every 3 or4 months or so and crank back up right away, but yesterday it shut off 5 times while my wife was driving and that means "fIX RIGHT NOW"
    I found the wire chaffed completely to the copper right where you said it would be on the A/C tubing near the battery and I taped it up and repositioned it so as not have the problem reoccur.
    Thanks a lot
  • retrosdretrosd Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    After a few scary incidents of our 2003 Ford Expedition shutting down (including on the freeway) it finally did not start. Although the engine turned, it appeared it was not getting any fuel. I had an ASE mechanic look at it and though it was the fuel pump which I ordered for $160 from (ordered on a Friday and received on Monday!). The pump was replaced but it still didn't start.

    He then looked at the fuse junction box and it appeared to be burned out. In my research, I found the following:

    The original Fuse boxes installed in these Trucks had 2 major problems. The First is the windshield leak problem. These trucks had a bad seal from the factory that allowed rain to drip down on the passenger side of the truck at the bottom corner of the windshield. The water leaks directly into the fuse box, ruining the circuitry

    The Second problem is just a poorly engineered part when the car was new. These circuit boards were poorly made, and after a few years of heat and cold, the relays fail to function any more. There are no repairable parts in this fuse box as all the relays are soldered to the circuit boards; the whole fuse box must be replaced.

    Read more at: link title

    Also, in speaking with my local junkyards, they can't even keep these in stock due to this known problem.

    The part (Ford Part # 3L1Z14A068AA) was $371 plus tax from my local Ford dealer however, I found the box for $260 (no tax) and paid for two day shipping for a total of $300 from Olathe Ford link title. PROBLEM FIXED within minutes and we are now back on the road.
  • pinon1pinon1 Posts: 1
    Hi im having the same problem with my 2003 ford expedition. Did replacing the fuse box fix your problem for sure? I've already put in alot of money and work into mine so was wondering if it fixed the problem on yours. Please help
  • no it did not. Basically I took it to Ford, they kept it for a week to find out where the problem was, and it was in the wiring harness, melted. They wanted $1500 to fix it and they still weren't sure if that was going to fix the problem.
  • johnm32johnm32 Posts: 1

    My wife has an '03 Ford Expedition with 110k miles on it. It began dying while driving. Usually when stopping or idling. She would describe that sometimes when it began acting like it was going to die she could "give it gas" and it would revive, other times that wouldn't work. It would usually restart after one or two tries. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. During a trip she began hearing a sound of "metal shredding" and the car died and wouldn't restart. She had it towed to a Ford dealer. They replaced the IAC valve. After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another Ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump, filter and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
    It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.
    Any ideas?

  • johnm32,
    What you describe is the exact issue I have with my 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 180k. I HAVENT attempted any repairs and or replacement of parts yet. After it dies, I typically wait 30 seconds and then it starts right back up. If I attempt to start it immediatley after it dies, the motor just turns over but wont start (must wait about 15-30 seconds). Some days it will die only once, other days 3-6 times all within an hours and then it seems to be good. It may drive fine for days, maybe a couple weeks before it dies again. My idle is only about 650 warmed up, not sure if thats where it should be for this vehicle but seems a bit low to me (could be why the motor seems a lil bit ruff at idle...? not bad but just slightly....
    I havent checked the battery wire along the AC line everyones refering to and I havent looked at the fuse panel issue...(i guess the fuse panel is same in lincoln navigators as it is ford expeditions)
    My shade tree theory was that "maybe"...just maybe, seeing as I have to wait a half minute or so before it will start back up (I typically leave the iginition key on during this wait time) that maybe I am loosing fuel pressure and with the ignition key on, it allows the pump to build pressure back up, allowing it to start up again. Just a theory and not a diagnoses......?
    I guess I will start looking over some of the things mentioned here in hopes of saving some coin.

  • ilopilop Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2003 Ford Expedition it started stalling on me while I was driving it on the freeway and at low speed. we changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, and a fuel fuse, and we changed the PCN at the Ford Agency and they were just guessing because it keeps doing the same thing. please any ideas.
  • ilopilop Posts: 2

    Someone please give me ideas I have spent so much on my truck took it to aamco. ford macombs west and they both said they would have me driving out of there with no problems. Ford said it was the PCN and a bunch of others stuff spent 1900 and never fixed it Aamco picked it up with a wreck because on top of that they messed up the transmission. Aamco charged 2700 for the transmission and electrical work once they saw they couldn't figure it out they said that was something they had not touched so I had to pay on top of that for them to do another diagnostic. We got this truck brand new so its hard when you know you've taken good care of it and you've been the only owner. Please any suggestions.

  • elbergonelbergon Posts: 2
    I had the same problem on my 02 expedition after wasting time and money for parts and diagnostics my friend who worked at a ford dealership told me to replace the alternator which solved the problem also the alternator fuse because for some reason it was blown up
  • elbergonelbergon Posts: 2
    do anyone know where to get cheap motorcraft tranny fluid
  • hyson1hyson1 Posts: 1

    FNoel  try checking your fuel pump driver module my 2005 expedition died one day started back up then died again I can almost guarantee that this will solve your problem i had no idea that this part even existed let alone that it was malfunctioning. I knew as soon as I took it off that this was the problem it was so corroded there were holes in it mine was behind my driver side rear wheel and u can look on YouTube on how to replace it also when I replaced it I wrapped it in plastic before bolting it on so I don't have to worry about corrosion on the new one also when u replace it check your fuses under the dash on the passenger side I blew one while I was replacing it. Hope this helps good luck 

    ps I kept the old one because ford should do a recall on this part it cost me a little over $100 

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,358
    Wrapping it in plastic is a bad idea. What causes the module to fail is the road salt getting sprayed on to it during the winter. The plastic wont stay sealed and the water and salt will not only get into the plastic it will be more likely to stay inside the plastic with the module. The fix BTW is to install the studs that Ford sells with the replacement module and then install the module which leaves a space for the water and road salt to pass through and not get trapped between the module and the frame.

    It is a mistake to assume that what repaired one vehicle will have any correlation to another before any real testing is done. With a proper routine the operation of the fuel pump control module is very easy to confirm, it does not have to be replaced on a whim.
  • changshachangsha Posts: 1
    A similar thing happened to me. My 2003 Expedition just quit while I was driving on the freeway and the battery light went on, only the battery light. Fortunately I managed to pull to the side. I cranked it a few times and it wouldn't start, but a few minutes later it started and I drove to work. The gauges and lights said everything was OK. The next morning the mechanic at my garage couldn't find a problem. Several days later while I pulled into the parking garage on my way to the airport, the battery light went on. The gauges said everything was OK. When I returned from my trip, the battery was dead. Had it towed to my garage. Although the battery was weak, the main problem was the alternator. Had battery and alternator replaced. No problems since. If you have a similar problem don't believe the gauges, the lights tell the truth.
  • I have a 2004 expedition and yesterday while driving down the highway it cut off and wouldn't start back up... No oil light or any kind of warning showed before hand or after but my boyfriend got out to check it it out and there was no oil at all which was weird because I always check my fluid regularly he put in 5 quarts and now it will turn over just fine but it won't start ..... Oh and about an hour before it died it did start making a weird noise but the air stopped working a few days before then so I just assumed it was something to do with that ... Does anyone know what this could be? Thanks in advance!!!
  • I have a 2003 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4 liter. My truck has been dying while driving for about a year now, it does it after it has been parked overnight and it has rained outside. When it dies, everything else works, radio, wipers, lights, heat/air, etc. It will also hesitate if I sit at a stop light with my air conditioning on. It acts like its not getting enough fuel, but it also seems like it has moisture getting in somewhere and shorting something out. I can always usually start it right back up. I have had the fuel pump replaced. The Ford Dealer and various other shops do not know what the problem is. They have thought it might be the fuse box. I have had people put it on the diagnostic machine with it not throwing a code. Any ideas or suggestions?
  • tonychef said:
    I have finally fixed my stalling problem in my 2003 ford expedition and wanted to share the repair with you, first of all for the safety of our families, and the cost of everything the mechanics think is wrong (even most ford mechanics are not aware of this fix) I have been lucky and never did the coil packs, fuel pump and new throttle body and valve. I did waste money on the camshaft sensor and IAC control valve; I did keep the old one so I have a back up if I need it in the future. I didn’t try the high octane fuel fix because I heard of this year throwing spark plugs which are big bucks to repair. Putting on this part and looking at the old one makes me think I didn’t even need a new one, but didn’t know what to expect when I bought it. The bracket connects the alternator to the positive terminal on your battery. If you start at the battery + terminal it has 2 red wires coming out of it. They are both usually red and about the same thickness. One of them goes into a long black rectangle clip that says “fusable Link” or something like that. Then comes out the other side and goes to the alternator. Past the fusable link box there will be 2 wires that split off of this wire. If you are in front of the truck one wire runs towards you and is pretty short. It plugs into another wire. The second wire is longer and it runs away from you THIS IS the wire you need to follow. It runs back towards the battery into a plug under it. Follow this wire from where it comes off of the big wire. You will find it resting on a silver/aluminum tube (its an AC pipe) Flip the wire over where it is touching this pipe, you will find the wire is rubbed down to the bare metal!!! It is randomly shorting out your engine and you will STALL. If I didn’t by the part I would try to tape it up, tape the pipe it rests on as well or get some foam tubing for the pipe, if the wires are too worn, looks like you could always use a wire nut. Your Are WELCOME
    Boy was this good advice from Tony. Our 2006 Expy XLT 4X4 up and died while in motion today - freaked my wife out big time. Immediately I am thinking this is a 5-figure repair job, but sure enough - Tony was right. I traced the wire from the positive lead and BINGO - the mesh sheath protecting the wire had worn to the point that it arced with the AC pipe it had been resting on for the past 150K miles.. A little electrical tape and a reroute of the wire and the Expy is driving like a champ. THANK YOU TONY!

Sign In or Register to comment.