Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

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Comments

  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    My original complaint had nothing to do with shifting early into overdrive. My '06 silverado does it as well. What I cannot believe is that a modern vehicle would take two seconds to downshift upon demand when gas pedal is pressed down. Even a delayed shift would not be that scary, but this car felt like it jumped out of gear and could not make up its mind what to do next. It felt like there was no power for two seconds until it decided to downshift. This can lead to a scary situation in a high speed pass on a two lane road with traffic coming in opposite direction.
  • turbo301turbo301 Member Posts: 73
    True, that's a good idea.

    My biggest problem with the transmission is the huge deadband lag between engaging the shifter into drive from reverse, or vice-versa, and the transmission actually getting into that gear. There is a monsterous delay; I've never driven a car with that kind of lazy behaviour. Normally it takes just a fraction of a second for a transmission to realize what gear it's supposed to be in, but my CV can take a couple of seconds to figure it out :).

    Still, though, it's a defficiency I can live with, just 'cause Panthers are so cool :P
  • turbo301turbo301 Member Posts: 73
    The '05s have the same setup as my '04, with the voltmeter and oil gauge (I still think that it's level and not pressure, 'cause it never changes!), but the '06s have simplified, late-'70s BMW-esque four-gauge arrangement. It's a real downgrade, IMO; you not only lose two gauges, but it leaves too much emtpy space in the bezel. It just looks like an afterthought.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Delayed shifting can be caused by inadequate quantity of transmission oil. Your tranny may be a quart or more low.
  • turbo301turbo301 Member Posts: 73
    My level is okay; it's been like this ever since I got the car, and I just attributed the shifting to the "softness" of the car in general.
  • samf1samf1 Member Posts: 1
    1999 Grand Marquis, Security LED flashes fast, Temp Gauge pionts straight up, cooling fans come on when the ignition is turned on, motor spins but will not start and codereader will not communicate. Anyone ever had this problem? :confuse: :confuse:
  • smitty69smitty69 Member Posts: 1
    I agree with Golfnut 5 about the Grand Marquis. I am 36 and have owned three Grand Marquis - an '87, '97 and my most recent a 2004. I bought my first '87 MGM from Raytheon in Massachusetts and drove that car until I had heard rumors that they were going to discontinue the car in '97. I had 165,000 miles on it and it still ran great. I had to fix a few minor problems - the remote power mirror switch went out on me, the weather stripping rotted away, the water hose rotted away and the rubber molding on the bumper was stolen. Someone even stole the hood ornament! All this was over time, but nothing major had happend to my what my friends called "The BOAT". So I ran out and bought a BRAND NEW '97 MGM. I had this car up until 2003 when I was hit by a red light runner. He hit me so hard in the right front end that it caused my car to spin and his trailer hit my my back end. Unfortunately my baby was considered totaled. Thankfully I was able to walk away from the accident with only a bruised leg. I used my insurance check to go out and buy a brand new 2004 MGM. To this day I am still driving and loving my MGM. I would like to go out and buy a new 2006 MGM, but I am waiting to see what they have planned for 2007/08. Hopefully they will not make any drastic changes to what is already a GREAT CAR.
  • dekesterdekester Member Posts: 322
    I went to Summit Racing and asked what I could use to replace the stock wheels. They said I needed a positive offset wheel and that Cragar S/S or American Torque-Thrusts were out....

    What can I use without running into clearance issues? What IS the stock wheel measurements (width, offset, etc)?
    Looking to stay within the wheelwells and a 16 in rim as I want to keep the tires on it now (Michelin Energy - but turn the whitewall INSIDE!).

    Deke
  • joe110joe110 Member Posts: 19
    ">I just wanted to share with you my MGM. I bought it back in 1994. It was a 1987 LS model with the padded roof and smaller back window. Paid 1300 for it and only 19000 miles. They told me it sat in some Exec's back yard. Put some money into it and loved it. I had the old Freon in the A/C which was I believe R12? My friends would cry and beg me to turn down the A/C. It would blow them out. I put a temp guage in the vents. In the dead of summer, it blew at idle 34 degrees out the vents. I sold the car to my father in 1996 and he sold it to my brother who sold it to his friends out of town in 2001. In 2003 I was shopping for a used car and came across a MGM for sale in the middle of nowhere sitting by the road. I couldnt believe it was my old car. I bought it again for 1000 bucks but this time it needed some minor work. Ball joints, exhaust, tires. I recently sold the car because I bought a FCV. Still, with the new car in the driveway, I continued to drive the MGM. I couldnt let go but some friends rode my butt telling me the car owed me nothing. So I sold it to some female friends with 106,000 miles on it. The interior was still brand new except for a headliner, the top was starting to crack and the paint was faded but the motor was strong. It had a 10 bolt posi and I could still lay drag with it.I still see the car at least once a week and the girl who has it takes good care of it. To me, that was one bad car. Rode like it was on air and hauled butt. Thanks for letting me share my story!
  • fscaranofscarano Member Posts: 44
    conoco phillips makes Ford's oil.
  • dekesterdekester Member Posts: 322
    What size should the black net in the trunk be? Mine doesn't reach between the button "hooks" behind the taillights; it's only as wide as the opening between them.

    Did I get short-changed (or the original owner) or did someone swap out one from a Sable or smaller car?

    Deke
  • ajwakeajwake Member Posts: 4
    Thanks everyone,Came over to the USA [nevada] for a couple of weeks,got an ACTRON POCKET SCANNER,pepboys around $70.00.got home plugged in,it threw 2 codes:PO136=02 SENSOR cicuit malfunction,bank 1 sensor 2,??.and a PO455= EVAP :shades: emission control leak [large]??? Any help guys & gals,ajwake United Kingdom. :shades:
  • bill001bill001 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 ford crown vic with the v8 engine. Today I got in my car to leave and it would not idle. It revs up to a normal idle then down then back up and down. It will do this for a while then die if I don't give it gas. While in gear it will stay at a good Idle. But I can tell it is still losing power while I am driving not at a stop. There is a sensor on the air intake. I think it is the Mass Air Flow sensor I wonder if its going bad and how to test it.

    Or if anybody can tell me what else they think it could be I can test that as well. I have looked over the engine and don't see any vacuum hoses broke or disconnected. I will post a picture of the engine and the sensor I mentioned.

    Thank for the help
    image

    image
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    Go to Crownvic.net and do a search under technical. I'm not remembering 100$%, but it sounds like it is your Idle Air control valve (IAC) is either clogged or dirty, or it's sensor is dirty.

    Not an uncommon problem in a 14 year old car, but not a difficult fix either.
  • bill001bill001 Member Posts: 3
    Well I removed and cleaned the IAC valve and no help. It still rev up to normal idle and then down where it almost dies but then it revs back up. While in gear it idles fine and run good.

    Any help would be appreciated
  • bill001bill001 Member Posts: 3
    Ok well I got it fixed. WOOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO
    Thanks for all the help guys.

    Oh by the way it was the PCV valve. Installed a new one and idles great.

    Thanks
  • ab5znab5zn Member Posts: 3
    Since I am new to this forum, I apologize if my issue has already been addressed over and over again. I have a 1994 Mercury Grand Marquis with about 119,000 miles. Recently I've had a problem with the shifting of the transmission. While I am driving, the transmission will suddenly go out of gear (or into neutral). A few seconds later, especially if I either rev the engine or slow down, the transmission kicks back into gear.

    I have a little hope because the car so far has never failed to get me where I'm going, but I'm sure it's just a matter of time before the car won't get into gear or gets stuck in some gear.

    What kinds of things can cause the problem I'm experiencing? Should I believe a mechanic who tells me that I have to get a new or rebuilt transmission because of this?

    Thanks all!
    Dave
  • kontryrocrkontryrocr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Grand Marquis and I was wondering whether anybody would know if the front bumber on the 2003 Marauder would fit on my Grand Marquis
  • phoenixssn702phoenixssn702 Member Posts: 7
    Hi, I think I am in the right place. I have a 1986 Ford CV 302 Fuel Injection with a duel catalyic converter driven by a thermoactor air pumped system into the CC and the exhaust ports. I have the expermential first generation system that has two seperate vacume control valves, two check valves, a belt driven air pump.
    The car expells a very loud air whistel and increases upon acceleration. Is not present in drive. At a certian point above 35 mph the noise is defening and the car stalls and shakes violently until speed falls below 30 and removel of acellerator foot pressure. Getting worse and now has the same problems at 20 mph and very difficult to start. Reverse kills the engine.
    Have replace the catalyic convertors and no improvement. Engine still loses power sometimes and cannot get past 1st gear. Disconnected both vacume lines to air control valves and it still whistels and stalls.
    Have done major repairs to start system. New battery, new starter, new ERG valve, all new hoses, new EGR vacume control solinoid two ports, tune up, new plugs Bosh 2 prong, new muffler, new 'Y' pipe, oil change and all new filters, new distrubeter cap and put cables back to original car specs (last Ford dealer had the firing order wrong for a larger police car) which completly solved all vibration. Car still sucks air at idell (weasing or starvation) and tries to stall. Have to put in neutral then rev up and shift to drive to proceed without stalling.
    HELP!!!! No parts available to repair thermoactor system.
    I have run out of ideas. Thank you very much, Gene.
  • phoenixssn702phoenixssn702 Member Posts: 7
    Hi, I forgot to say that the MAP sensor was also replaced. Some Ford qualified mechanic told me that the temp sensor was the problem and replace that which I have not done. Just does not sound right. Also the local station here ran the computer diagonastics and no codes came up. Also serviced the AC clutch and added Freon. I know some of these repairs have no related function at first glance, but Ford routes all its function via a vacume control system. I cannot test the car in drive ( at park) because the parking break is disabled in all gears except park. Thanks Gene !
  • mikeurmikeur Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2006 GM (my 4th GM). I am concerned about its cold start up performance. On cold start-up the engine revs to 1800 RPM. Depending on the air temperature, it will stay at this speed for varying amounts of time, up to around 10 seconds at 30 F. The speed will then drop off to 1200 RPM, again for varying amounts of time. Unless I wait for an unseemly long period of time, I must shift into gear while still at 1200 RPM. If put in gear at 1200 RPM the engine will reduce to a more normal speed of 800 RPM.

    I have a serious concern about the high engine speed on cold start up and shifting into gear at these high speeds. I was always taught that an engine was supposed to be run at low throttle at first, until it warms up. Shifting into gear at high RPM was not recommended. I wonder whether the car will suffer premature engine wear and/or damage to the transmission, because of this.

    Anyone have any thoughts on this?
  • turbo301turbo301 Member Posts: 73
    No, your engine sounds like it's functioning normally. Every engine, whether it is a new computer controlled motor or an old carbureted/vacuum controlled motor, will idle high until it is suitably warmed up. A motor does this in order to bring the engine components up to the regular working temperature as soon as possible (everything from pistons to the catalyst works better when the engine is warm). You're right that you shouldn't go driving aggressively until the motor is warmed up, but a high cold idle is sort of a necessary evil.
  • joe110joe110 Member Posts: 19
    Hello. I have a 2005 CV and used a flash device to set my own idle speed and engine RPM for driving. My default is 650rpm in drive and 600rpm idle. I currently have it set for 700rpm idle and 650rpm drive. To me, its more than enough. How are you able to tell yours is revving at start up 1800rpm? 1200 putting it in gear? I wouldnt put an old style carb motor in gear at that idle unless it had a big cam. I assume you put a tach in? In my opinion, if the above is true, I would take the car back to the dealer and complain so it can be documented. The dealer should have a guy there who is qualified to re flash the computer. Something worth looking into. If your not happy and want to handle your own idle like me, buy a flash device. Good luck!
  • lsavage317lsavage317 Member Posts: 3
    I just read your message regarding having your spark plugs blow out of the head. Apparently I'm now an official member as well. However, I am greatly concerned as to whether this repair has lasted, or if you had any other types of problems or anything I should know that might benefit me in my situation. My GM is a 2001 w/ about 80k on it. Another worry I have is that there is a possibility that metal shavings could have gotten into the bottom below the spark plug (I didn't see it, my brother was the one checking the threads inside when it first happened.) How can one be sure this didn't already happen with the plug all loose in there? I would really appreciate any feedback you may be able to give me regarding this, as I am supposed to be making a decision as to what I want done here, and I'm still not feeling 100% about this being the solution (although I can't afford to replace the head, either!) HELP!! Thanks!!!
  • lsavage317lsavage317 Member Posts: 3
    If the information is still available, I would sure like to know how or where I can find out about this class-action lawsuit (mentioned above) regarding Ford vehicles in California which have had their spark plugs blow out. Does anyone still have any INFO on this? Thanks!!
  • lsavage317lsavage317 Member Posts: 3
    After having read your messages and the others regarding the spark plug blowouts of a year ago, I am interested to know if everything is well w/ your repair, etc. I am now facing the same situation w/ my 2001 GM now. I would sure appreciate anything you or the others could address with me in regard to your experience and/or success, etc. w/ the repair. I keep hearing conflicting (type of) info regarding this solution. Can you help? I sure would appreciate any input along these lines! Thanks!!
  • g45g45 Member Posts: 17
    Joe110 wrote:

    " . . . I assume you put a tach in? . . "

    I have a 2005 GM, not a 2006. I love the car, but I really wish my car had one of the factory-installed tachs found in the 2006 cars. The 2006 GMs are little different than in 2005; but this particular improvement, the tach, is a big one to me.

    And no add-on tach is ever going to be the equivalent of having a factory-installed tach, matching the other instruments and built into the instrument cluster.

    Oh well. (sigh)
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    might pay to have someone hi-speed balance the tires on the car instead of on a Hunter balance machine...I believe the Hunter is a great methiod that works almost all the time, but occasionally it may not work...I am also familiar with the "raod force" hunter that simulates the compression of the force of the road, maybe that is the answer...

    While it is possible, I hesitate to think that I could have 2 sets of defects...
  • bbbrianbbbrian Member Posts: 2
    i got a quote on a 2006 GS Convenience (includes keyless entry and traction control) for $17,492. has anyone else looked into buying one and what prices have you gotten. looking to buy before end of month. i was quoted invoice price less $6,000 in rebates.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    The only extra cash I know of is if you qualify for A or X-plan as a supplier or employee of Ford. There is another $1,500 rebate available for them.

    Other than that, it is a good quote, in my opinion.
  • bbbrianbbbrian Member Posts: 2
    found two virtually identicle cars. one is a flex fuel vehicle(E85). the other is a regular gasoline engine. can anyone give me some feedback on these two engines. i am wondering about performance, maintainance and gas mileage. which one should i choose?
  • harmar2harmar2 Member Posts: 36
    Popular Mechanics or Popular Science had an article on alternative fuels some months ago. And various news sources have run them. As I recall, a barrel of oil would need to go to something like $100 before the pump prices would rise high enough to compensate for the additional cost of manufacturing ethanol and approximately 33% lower mileage you get using ethanol.

    However, I did locate a site here that allows you to input your own data and get an estimate of what both engines you cited would cost you to drive. Scroll down that page for the Ford Crown Vic's picture and info, then click "COST ANALYSIS" and go from there.

    Good luck!
  • gobiggobig Member Posts: 6
    I just recently purchased a 1998 Grand Marquis GS. What's the difference between the GM and Ford CV? Is there any difference? Sorry for the stupid question just curious if there was a general preference for one car over the other.
  • harmar2harmar2 Member Posts: 36
    There are no "stupid questions." It's unlikely that any of the users here know everything there is to know. In fact, the older I get, the more I realize how little I know about anything.

    CV and GM are basically the same car, except GM comes with more features standard and a little more trim. A buddy recently retired from FoMoCo buys whatever (CV or GM) gets him the best trade for his old car. There are some differences between GM's GS and LS lines (and, I assume, between CV's base and LX lines). Here's a link to a comparison of 1998 GS and LS lines.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    but the shudder didn't affect any wheels or steering issues in my 95 T Bird. Last month the T Bird got four new Michelin HydroEdge tires. Smooth at all speeds up to 80. ;)
  • brockangelobrockangelo Member Posts: 2
    I am a new owner of a 99 Grand Marquis GS and the previous owner smoked in the cloth interior. I would like to upgrade this to leather and have found (through salvage) several leather options.

    My question: do I need to find an *exact* match in vehicle (ie: 99 GM GS), or would it work to go as broad as to find any of the 98-2002 models of Grand Marquis in either GS or LS?

    Brock
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Replacing the seats is a good start, but what are you planning to do about the smoke laden carpet, door panels, and overhead fabric?
  • brockangelobrockangelo Member Posts: 2
    I am having all of this detailed on Monday. :shades:
  • g45g45 Member Posts: 17
    The LTC will be joining our beloved MGMs and FCVs! Talk about every cloud having a silver lining! Shortly the LTC will be manufactured at Ford's St. Thomas, Ontario, plant. It is JMHO, but I think the LTC fits in much better at St. Thomas than it did at Wixom. A LTC is far closer to our cars than it is to an LS; or perhaps I should say our cars are closer to the LTC. :-)

    Regardless it is a joy to know Ford will be keeping our factory open, at least for now. Here are all the happy details:

    http://quote.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601109&sid=aYj7p.UTdyi4&refer=home

    Driving an auto orphan is not an outcome I relish. Let's hope St. Thomas remains afloat and continues turning out those great cars. Also it is not so bad being associated with the LTC; why I'm feeling a little snootier already!! :)
  • g45g45 Member Posts: 17
    If you bought your 2003 MGM with the thought it is better than a Lexus, well, you lose.

    But it is rated better than every OTHER car out there (see last paragraph):

    http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2006-08-09-dependability-survey_x.htm

    Not too bad IMHO. :)
  • redptcredptc Member Posts: 78
    I have a 1995 GM, does anyone know how to program the remote transmitters? :confuse:
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Read the Owners Manual. It teaches how to install a Secondary code that will work. The factory Primary Code will always work as well. I programed my wife's birthdate into both of our cars by reading the Owners Manual. It is very easy to understand. ;)
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    Euphonium, you advise he READ the owner's manual. But if you read his question, he asked how to program the REMOTE transmitter, aka the fob! How could you program your wive's birthday into a keyfob? ;)

    Anyway, the question remains, he wants to reprogram the FOB. Perhaps that answer, too, is in the owner's manual?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Thank you for the post and I stand corrected. You are one of the few who knows why it took me 4.5 years to get a 4 year degree. :blush:
  • gwhite958gwhite958 Member Posts: 1
    just bought a 97 mgm and have a water problem every time it rains the drivers side fills up with water about an inch or so windshield has been replaced and it still leaks seals on doors look good and no evidence of window leaks any one have any ideas on problem seems like the rear fills up more than the front
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    There is nothing wrong with taking some time off during college to get your thoughts together...while it took 4.5 years, there is no rule that it is REALLY a 4 year degree, it is the degree you completed when you finally attained sufficient hours for the degree-granting institution to offer you a "complimentary" sheepskin...and I do pity the poor sheep...:):):):):)
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Thanks for the understanding thoughts, but had I taken any time off, I would have been drafted immediately and taken a long tour of Korea.

    The reason for an extra semester is I changed from a Minor in Economics to Music as at the time most of the Econ profs were of socialistic, pro labor, & not respecting captains of industry and/or the self employed.

    As I graduated from 'Silo Tech' the sheepskin was forsaken for common old paper signed by the President of the college.
    They didn't want to upset the animals in the Vet Med department.

    Euphonium, Moo U Class of '55 ;)
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    that Econ profs were Communists shortly after WWII, I thought they needed until the 60s to come out of hiding...
  • buickboy92buickboy92 Member Posts: 19
    Does anybody think i should get P71 crown vic as a daily diver? because i really like them but can't seem to find any for sale so if someone knows were to get one please tell me, thank you.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Check out your state's Surplus Sale from time to time.
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