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I'm leaving the tweeters, though. I already sold the original tires that I had replaced.
To tell you the truth, with the JBL Power series, you don't need no stinkin' 12's. They have a remarkable low end response as it is, especially when combined with the Impala amp's already heavy low end, without all the mud.
How I got my amp you ask? I tried a few times when my car was under warranty but GM claimed it was the first they heard of it and mine was working just fine. So just recently I bought an old house along a highway in my area. A couple of weeks ago some woman driver in her Volvo wasn't paying any attention swirved to miss a turning car and ran through my yard and knocked over an 8ft pine tree then bounced off a 10ft then a 15ft pine tree stopped her, . She was ok. Just killed some of my trees and made nice tire tracks in my yard.
This is what gave me a surprise, she was the wife of the President of the dealership where I bought my car. HA! I couldn't believe it. So blah blah blah, I asked for a new amp for compensation of my tree, . I really didn't mind the tree but that crappy amp just had to go.
later
Joe
I didn't see a single JBL part used by any winner. Out of about 40 company tents & booths there, JBL didn't even have one.
For the old fogy trying to be a salesman for JBL, there are only 2 current 6X9's that are 3-ways. I don't know how many they had in the old days, but instead of dwelling in the past, you can go to their website (which sucks anyway)& see that there are only 2 models. If you buy 6.75" Sony, Pioneer, Infinity, Rockford, Cerwin-Vega, Kicker, Kenwood, or Kicker speakers from Crutchfield, they have a different part number to their 6.5" counterpart. JBL is the only company in the catalog who doesn't make a 6.75" specific speaker. They're too cheap so they try to keep a smaller product line; thus the consumer has to use the same speaker in either application. For "old sound guys" knockin' expensive RCA's & power wire, some of us like high wattage & quality sound. If its too loud, you're too old!!
:-D
Seriously, I like this forum for its views from all walks of life. We'll miss you, buddy.
B. I only knock what needs knocking. I'm one of the guys that makes the music loud in the first place. I don't fall for that home audiophile nonsense either. It's your money. Spend it however you wish. I'm sure that spending hundreds of dollars on cables makes a huge improvement in sound...in your car.
c. While a Geo Metro would be tempting, I decided to buy this instead:
I went with an Alpine head unit, to keep compatibility with the factory CD changer. I haven't decided on new speakers yet. I'm limited by the shallow mounting depth. I'll be using the existing wiring.
Now, if you'll excuse me. There's a Matlock / Murder She Wrote double feature on the Senior Citizens channel.
Plus, take a look at her! I'd rather be driving that than most medium age'Vettes. I'd definitely rather have a new XKR over a new Vette. 57 Vette? That's a different story.
BTW, that car to the right of my driveway is more visible in this pic. I really think it's one of those boxy Hondas from the late 80's/early 90's.
Has someone ever replace these wiper blades yet? How did you do it.
Thanks for your advice.
Dennis
Wrong group, Dennis. Go see the message I left for you in the maintance. section.
"Turn the ignition key to the OFF postion. Press DISP for 5 seconds, while pressing the brake peddle, and opening the console cover. The blades will pop off of the arms. When replacing the blades, reverse the above procedure, but open the glove box instead of opening the console, and hold the DISP button for 7 seconds, while pressing the right rear window down button, located on the left front driver's armrest, for 3 seconds. This will engage the blades into the arms."
I can picture it.
A: Power cable: If total amplifier wattage running is 250 watts continuous (1200 peak) or less, all you need is 8 gauge power wire. If running multiple amplifiers @ 1000 watts (2000 peak) total like I am, than run 4 gauge wire.
This is not an issue about sound but safety. (I carry a chrome extinguisher even w/ the thick power cable.)
B: RCA's: You can either tap into the wires in the trunk, use line level converters, & run RCA's to your amplifier (GOOD), connect the converter behind the head unit & run RCA's the length of the car to the amplifier (BEST), or use high level inputs on the amplifier if it has that option (WORST.) That last one you can run into some problems overtime.
RCA's can let noise creep in from the engine (whining fluctuating w/ the engine RPM's) so specially insulated cables are best. The gold plating is so connections don't get affected by oxidation (gold does not oxidize.)
Now, IASCA (international auto sound challenge assoc.) is not a magazine but the most well respected organization that holds yearly all out decibal contests, as well as sound quality competitions. Tens of thousands of dollars in prizes motivate participants. Go to the website, its quite interesting. Smart companies set up booths & displays. Ex: MB Quart had an awesome Corvette w/ all kinds of custom panels & components last year.
Why hold car audio competitons? BECAUSE, anybody can bolt their amps, EQ's, signal processors, crossovers, or other components to the back of the seat. It takes true talent to design & fabricate the world's most visually appealing & highest quality sounding installs.
BTW, the 1959 or 1960 Corvette looks better w/ the mean dual headlights! :-D
Chris
http://members.cox.net/2001impala
If you swap out the paper cone OEM slush buckets for some decent aftermarkets, you should have enough sound to make you happy. Since blues and classic rock is a very acoustic sound, you won't want to have too much distortion in the sound. I find that the 03 amp puts out good clean power, so focus on the speakers, first.
Another Townhall member replaced his OEM's with JBL's and was happy.
That "popping" you hear with the factory jobbies is the speaker 'clipping' - a sign of inferior speakers or "dirty" power from the amp. Like I said, the Alpines on the 03 amp sound great and I listen to everything from the Isley Brothers to hardcore metal.
Good luck!
RR
Make sure you stick with a better brand like Alpine, JBL, Boston, etc. There are also "competition" audio brands like MB Quart and JL Audio. My personal feelings on those is that they are the "emperor's new clothes", if you know what I mean.
Besides looking for the obvious things like frequency response (try and find something that goes down to 50Hz or lower), also make sure they can handle a decent amount of power (at least 40-50w RMS or continuous power), and if you want them to be loud, you'll need an efficient speaker. To judge efficiency, look for a sensitivity rating of at least 91dB. The higher the sensitivity rating, the louder it will be at a given wattage. Being that the Impala amp isn't all that powerful, the sensitivity will play a big part.
Another thing to bear in mind is that the front speakers are 6 3/4 inch, instead of the standard 6 1/2 inch. Many brand's 6 1/2 are designed to also fit the oversize GM hole. Many other brands make a specific 6 3/4 inch model. The rears are standard 6x9.
Get 3 ways in the back, and if possible 3 ways in the front. However, some quality brands only offer 2 way speakers in that size.
It's refreshing to find a woman that would rather listen to tunes than talk in the car!!!!
01-08-44-011: CD Cannot be inserted into CD player or Ejected (Reset radio); 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier, Impala, Malibu, Montecarlo, Venture, Oldsmobile Intrigue,Sillouette, Pontiac Montana.
Check this TSB out, very interesting....
01-08-44-012: Radio Bass level TOO HIGH (Adjust bass level using GM Tech Tool Level 2); 2001-02 Chevrolet Impala, Montecarlo. (Didn't know the Boomy bass sound could be fine tuned using the GM Tech Level 2 tool, COOL!)
Second, remove the seat back. That one is obvious. There are bolts above and below the seat back.
Third, you can either bend the cardboard shelf cover in the middle to access the speaker mounts, or attempt to remove it completely.
Fourth, unplug the speaker wire connector from the speaker.
Fifth, remove the speaker mounts from the body by squeezing the tabs from inside the trunk.
Sixth, remove the speakers from the mounts using a Torx driver.
To install, reverse the procedure.
No. There's nothing wrong with 2 ways, either, There just not usually as good as comparible quality 3 ways . Simple. (Matter of fact, even.)
BTW, I still have my LS. I've already removed the fronts, and will take out the rears this weekend. I'll leave the tweeters, obviously.
My actual question is if anyone has the codes to diable the security function of my stereo. I dont' want to have to worry about having it reprogrammed if I disconnect my battery.
Chris
http://members.cox.net/2001impala
"Put the best speakers in the world blah blah blah;" Try some demo speakers at a good car stereo shop like Custom Sounds or Audio Express & you'll understand what I'm talkin' about. That's how I originally came across this brand. (I currently like the Eclipse subwoofers after listening to various brands inhouse.)
Also, you contradict yourself about the rear speakers by recommending 3-ways. Using your reasoning it would only benefit rear passengers. Unless you got donkey ears. :-D
Q: If I remove my radio, will the dealer have to reactivate it if I want to reinstall it into my car?
A: No. In previous model years, a security code had to be programmed into the radio for the radio to operate. In the Impala, the radio is programmed with a portion of the vehicle's VIN. When the radio is activated, it compares the VIN it has stored with the VIN that is transmitted from a module in the vehicle. If a mismatch occurs, the radio will lock and can only be unlocked with a scan tool. You can remove the radio and reinstall it in the same vehicle with no problems, but you cannot install the radio into a different vehicle unless the dealer reprograms the radio.
If people complain that MB Quart speakers have too much high end, and you say you hear plenty from tweeters mounted at your ankles, then it certainly seems that their high-end output is either to strong, or inaccurate at the frequencies that are the most unpleasant at higher volumes, namely the upper-mids. It is a trick often used by manufacturers to make their speakers seem better than they really are. Enhanced low end is another one.
A good speaker will reproduce sound accross the entire spectrum in a smooth, realistic, unenhanced way, without unnaturally accentuating any particular frequemcy or groups of frequencies.
As for the rear speakers, where have I contradicted myself? A 3way speaker will sound better, have better mid-range response, and a smoother bass-to-mid-to-high transition than a 2 way of equivalent quality.
I also have no problem hearing my rear speakers, despite normal sized ears. (My nose is a different story!) The speakers are only a few feet behind my head. In addition, the mids and highs are reflecting off of the rear window, proving most of the audible sound spectrum at ear level, unlike the ankle high front speakers.
BTW, I was a soundman, not stagehand. Hence, my knowledge born from experience, not from car stereo salesmen and magazines designed to sell car stereos.
http://www.impalahq.com
http://www.impalahq.com
Brad
Chris
Yes, OnStar still works. If you don't have a factory installed harness, you have to put in the harness that is included in the kit. That would disable OnStar. However you can move a couple of connectors from the factory radio harness to the one in the kit to retain OnStar.
Thanks...
www.ImpalaHQ.com
If you are going to keep your factory amp installed, you should be able to tap into the audio input of that amp and send it to your aftermarket amp without needing line level converters. Read the FAQ and let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks
How many watts comes from the Trunk amp?
How many watts per channel from the head unit?
Does the head unit have RCA jacks on the back?
I was thinking of using RCA jacks from the head unit to the amp but if I have to I'll "steal" signal from the rears.