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    andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Hate to think I got ripped off at 14K out the door...yet you say you paid 11.5K 3 years later for a 98...was their a trade involved or rebate and did that include taxes. Did the price go down? I know we had to order ours as well. I know 3 other people with Neons who paid 13K -14K after taxes in 95-96. (2 had head gaskets changed as well..but under warranty)
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    iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    You may have paid too much! I bought a fully loaded w/leather 2002 R/T for around $14,500 with Rebates. SXT with air and 5speed have been advertised here in Omaha for $9999 after rebates. SXT with auto, air and sunroof for $11,599. Rick
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    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I was going through my older car price books the other night, and you may be shocked at the amount of cars that actually have lower prices now then they did several years ago. For the same equipment and all.
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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    I could have bought a 2001 for less than I paid for my 2000 and I believe I could get a 2002 even cheaper. Kinda sucks but then again I got the 0.9% so that cushions the blow a little. Even 0% isn't much of an improvement over that. I love this car, especially considering one of the other finalists on my short list was Focus. Ford must love those, they keep calling them back.
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    andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    This is one reason I just switched to a Toyota. Neon aside, (we got rid of it for my sister-in-laws used Rav against my better judgement - it looks good but is underpowered and samll compared to the Neon), I was looking at a Taurus and a Camry...I know you guys are likely into a Cirrus or something but I no longer have a great service dealer in my area and to be honest I was not too impressed with the Breeze type cars.....

    Anyway, a 2002 Taurus was going for about $16.7K. Of course there was a $2K rebate this year. Think how this makes the poor slep who paid 18K + last year for his 2001 Taurus feel! Plus he's got the added benefit of even greater depreciation...I almost bought a 2001 Taurus w/10K miles for $14K! I thought it was gimmic but they started showing up on all the lots. Since the 2002s were so cheap it drove the price of the used 2001 down way low...actually a bargain...though the 2001 owners certainly do not feel that way or anyone who is unfortunate enough to total their car and get squat from their insurance. Personally, I am hoping these rebates are a gap towards an overall lower priced American fleet. However I am not convinced the US automakers are sized appropriately to handle the revenue loss these lower prices yeild. Thus the question of quality again rears it's ugly head. I have seen this happen with Ford. 5 years ago they introduced the Contour / Mystique. I loved this innovative car, way many conveniences, awesome interior, great handling etc but it was expensive and came with many mechanical issues. Still I would have bought a new Contour / Mystique had Ford been able to work the bugs out. Instead they dropped it. Also, the latest generation Ford Taurus has changed only in appearance. It appears they are starting to lag behind again. I still believe the American cars have come a long way but they do not have what it takes for the long haul. (I know I am going to hear from all you highway driving guys with 200K on your cars). To me the Fords / Chrystlers are great '3' year cars. Personally I am looking for something I can keep 5 + years with out the nagging trips to the dealer. I am hoping my Camry provides that. If not I'll gladly switch back to 1 year old depreciated American cars and get rid of them every few years...I can not deny they are a steal.
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    hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    Neons almost always had $1,500-$2,500 rebates in effect. Maybe you bought yours when it was such a new model that they didn't offer any rebates. I had the big $2500 rebate that was in place all of 98 and 99 until the redesign came out in 2000 (which ruined the Neon IMO). I also paid about $400 over invoice and bought in Oregon where there is no sales tax. It was a straight car purchase only, with no trade in. The Value package that included the Sunroof and all those power options was a really good deal, and I think it started in 97. It was under $1000 for all those options. My parents bought a 78 Dodge Omni when they were a brand new model and I don't think the Omnis ever got more expensive then they were in 1978. they could have bought a collectible 78 Dodge Aspen Super Coupe with cop 360 powertrain and HD suspension for the same price as they paid for their "fuel efficient" Omni. Funny because my AWD Grand Caravan gets about as good of mileage as that Omni did (which did end up being a pretty trouble free car my mom drove for 10 years.) I don't think Taurus shoppers have been without a rebate for quite a while either, they definitely had them last year. Personally I never liked the mid size Dodge and Chrysler either but the new ones are much better, and very nice looking but getting expensive. Personally I don't understand why the Taurus and Intrepid were always compared to the Camary and Accord. Maybe the Camary is bigger now with the redesign but before those cars were more in size with the Stratus and the Contour. Price wise they are more like an intrepid, but and intrepid was always much larger and more powerful then an Accord or Camary.
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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    After my experience with a couple I always felt the Japanese cars were the great "3 year" cars and the American ones were the ones you could count on for the long haul. I used to think it was worth having a couple more small things to take back to the dealer when it was new and have a car that would easily go a couple hundred thousand miles. I still routinely put 100 miles a day on my 83 Charger and it hasn't been all highway driving either. I used to drag race it and my wife used it in city driving for nine years while I drove a Camaro in my commute. References to "precision engineering" in advertising are a farce, especially when they show you close ups of shiny pistons and connecting rods. All cars on the road have "precision engineered" drivelines. If they didn't they wouldn't last 50 miles. Every automotive engineer and machine shop operator in the country knows the expansion rate of aluminum pistons per inch of bore and hones the bores accordingly. There is no great "precision" secret that the Japanese or Germans know of which the Americans are clueless. It's all a matter of compression/rod length/bore to stroke ratio/balance and such that determine an engines performance. These things are all considered and the engineers produce what they think is going to be the best compromise for a given platform. As my father told me "you take care of it, it will take care of you."
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    bullwrk2bullwrk2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello! Started at 1200 mils,ran it for 6000.Brought it in for its first check up,Dodge said it was normal for neons to Ruff idle,RPM seems to go from 750 to 600.Feels like its going to stall! Dose any one have this problem or know how to fix it? Please Let Me Know.Thank You.
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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Sounds like they have enough service work and don't want to take any low profit warranty work on. Did they run the diagnostics and see if it's throwing any codes? Unfortunately I don't know what the sensor array is on the Neons. But if it's like most cars it could be several things. A throttle position sensor that's on it's way out comes to mind. Possibly a bad MAP sensor. O2 sensor perhaps if the wire was misrouted and has shorted out on an exhaust pipe. Dealers have been handing out that "they all do it" line of crap since the wheel was invented. They don't all do it. It is, however, normal for it to idle high at first and come down. It shouldn't hunt up and down the rev band however.
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    iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    I have a Chevy Suburban that did that, the throttle body needed cleaning. Your miles seem low for that though. Suburban had about 16K miles when the problem developed.
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    jhan759jhan759 Member Posts: 24
    I am looking at purchasing a used neon for my son. He really like the RT model, wants a manual transmission. Looking between 96-98. Any comments from members of the group would be great (pos or neg). Thanks!
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    hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    The older R/T neon was available only in 98 and 99 and only with a manual transmission. A Sport model would be similar to the R/T but available in automatic or manual. The 95 Sport model was actually the best as far as true "sport" content goes, and was actually really similar to the R/T. The top of the line when it came to sportiness was the "ACR" or "competition package" models available all years to 99 but best in 95-97. It is tough to tell a ACR from a stripped down sport but the best exterior clue is the foglight holes with no fog lights (and not just broken out!) The ACR was a manual only Neon as well. www.neons.org is the largest internet Neon site with more content then you would ever need to know about Neons. The web boards there are not as civilized as edmunds so watch out, but there is lots of other good info on the site.
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    andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    I mentioned up several posts about a headgasket problem that seemed inherent to the early Neons. I had just sold my '95, used, to a neighbor in 1999 with 32K and a month later he had to replace the head gasket for $500. I told him to try to work something out with what was then a Plymouth dealer...he said he would but I recently found out he did not. Just recently (2002) I saw a great deal of info on the internet about premature headgasket failures on early Neons. I posted here for more info but there seemed to be a bit of denial of the problem.

    I contacted Chystler for my older neighbor and with out batting an eye they agreed to to refund $400 of the $475 repair bill under a 'good wiil' program. Since the issue of whether or not his head gasket was repaired with the 'new' re-engineered one or another defective older one was in question I asked what would happen if the current gasket should go in less than 30K miles or so. They told me to call back at that time and perhaps another accomodation would be in order.

    All this tells me:

    1) There was a definite Headgasket problem....likely should have been a recall.

    2 Chrystler seems to be in a pretty magnanimous mood with their customer service these days. I tip my hat to them!
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    hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    That is sweet! I've always thought if push ever came to shove Chrysler would always bend over backward for me, but it seems others don't always get the same treatment. Maybe this is just a good example of you get courtesy from courtesy. Chrysler is certainly not afraid to issue recalls (compared to somebody like Toyota) and they issue them at the drop of a hat. They are not trying to hide or protect a reputation like Toyota. The difference being that recalls are almost always needed for safety, and the headgasket problem could not be considered safety under any stretch. They did do this "good will" or extended warranty you encountered, and this is the same thing GM did with the early quad 4 motors and Toyota did with their early 90's v-6's. No reason to tear apart all motors when you can just fix the ones that fail, as long as it's not safety related. Technically they don't even have to offer an extended warranty as when you originally purchased the car you agreed to the terms that were in place, and there was no guarantee that the headgasket would last longer then 3 years or 36,000 miles. I agree Kudos to Chrysler for going above and beyond.
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    stans40stans40 Member Posts: 16
    I have a 95 neon with 77,000 miles. It has been leaking oil on the ground for several months. An independent mechanic I use looked at it and said it looked like a head gasket problem which he would fix for about $400-$450. I called Chrysler customer service, but the lady said she was aware of the problem and didn't know if Chrysler would pay for the fix. She did say to take it in for diagnosis and she would set up a case number so a district rep could evaluate the claim. Since they will probably charge me $50 to diagnosis the problem, I don't want to then hear sorry, but we can't help you. I would like to know if anyone has recently had Chrysler fix this problem with only a $100 deductible.
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    jrundgrenjrundgren Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Neon (which actually rolled out of the factory January '99) had to have the headgasket replaced at 60K, after a serious failure--it dumped all the oil on my 20 mile commute home. Luckily, but the time I figured it out, I was a block from home, and there was no damage to the engine. The repair was covered under my extended warranty. It's interesting to hear this is a common problem...

    My newest problem is the car trying to stall when the air conditioner is on. It's particularly bad in reverse. When the AC is off, the problem seems to go away. It's almost like there isn't a steady intake of oxygen or something is clogging the fuel supply. Any ideas or similar experiences?
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    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    It would make it alot easier to diganose the problem if the Check Engine light came on. Even if it only came on briefly or flashed, the computer would "hold" that code and the dealer could find it. If it were the oxygen sensors, the CE light would come on.
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    krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    are not typical.
    It is well known design/(cheap)execution issue from 95-99. I might be mistaken with ending year.

    Krzys
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    jrundgrenjrundgren Member Posts: 2
    If the check engine light flashed, I never noticed, but I'm sure they'll run a diagnostic anyway.

    My new problem (as of lunchtime today) is that it WON'T START!!!!! I'm absolutely sure it's not the battery or the alternator (plenty of electricity to peripherals, and no tell-tale "click"). I turn the key as far as it will go and...NOTHING. Maybe an ignition problem? Or a short?

    I'm going to have to have it towed to the dealership. Hopefully the problem is covered under my extended warranty, and the towing will be covered. Any ideas would be helpful... I'll post the results when I find out. $%#$%!!!!!
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    dstauff12dstauff12 Member Posts: 3
    I took my wife's 99 Dodge Neon to a local shop to have an oil change Thursday and they informed me that the head gasket was leaking. He said that it would cost around $900 to replace, but he said they have seen this on Neon's probably 100 times over the years and that I should contact Chrysler to see it they would help. He said he had heard of them splitting the cost with customers. The car has 57,000 miles and is way past the warranty period. I drove it straight to the dealer that we purchased it from and told them of the leak and that I understood that this was a common problem with Neons. The man at the service department admitted that there have been problems, but that they would only cover it if it occurs in the first 3yr/36,000 period. I then called another dealer and they suggested that I call Chrysler. I called and within seconds I received a "Case #". The man on the 800 line also called the dealer that we bought it from and informed the service department of our case #. He then instructed me to call the service department to schedule an appointment. I had to authorize the service department to "tear it down" at a minimum cost of $250. They said that after they took it apart they would report what they found to Chrysler and then find out what "assistance" if any Chrysler would provide. I was a little leery of this, since it would be after they had it tore down before I would find out if and how much "assistance" they would provide. Well, they called back and said that we only had to pay a $200 co-pay and that Chrysler would cover the rest. We decided to have the timing belt changed while they had it torn apart and this saved us money also. They said the normal charge for a timing belt change was $353 and they are doing it for $190. Of course with a leaky head gasket, we are also having the system flushed. We have to pay for the flush, $129.95. The original service man quoted me $950 and now after a very short phone call I only have to pay $200.
    I apologize for the long message, but wanted to pass this info along to others. I have a friend who works for Chrysler and he did not know to call and he recently paid for the repair in full himself.
    It should never have happened, but at least they helped. Good luck to all with this problem and always remember to buy the extended warranty with a Dodge. I know I will if I ever buy a Chrysler product again.
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    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I thought Chrysler had something going on where you just had to pay $100 for the replacement headgasket, because it's a known problem? There might be some posts further back in this board, but I know I read it somewhere. Worth looking into.
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    keishabkeishab Member Posts: 1
    I have been informed of my head gasket problems and i am not to happy. But I also have a problem with a non working speedometer, gas gauge and radiator gauge. Any one experience this????
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    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    If all the gauges are not working, it's probably an electrical problem. I would check the connection to the dashboard (wiring harness) to be sure its ok.
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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    In my opinion you're getting the old screw job. They have to remove and replace the timing belt to do a head gasket anyway. Your cost to have the timing belt done at the same time should only be the parts cost of the belt. Dealers mark up parts when they go from the parts department to the service department but $190, holy crap! Call the parts department and ask how much a timing belt for your year Neon is. Then ask the service writer to explain their method of replacing a head gasket without removing the timing belt as you would find that fascinating. If he can't come up with this methodology (I want to hear it if he does) tell him you are only going to pay the cost of the part for the new timing belt. You are not going to pay him twice for the same labor. The last Mopar timing belt I bought (for a 2.2)was about $50 at the dealer.
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    mstrommstrom Member Posts: 4
    While I'm looking forward to my head gasket blwoing at 60k, I'm still trying to find out why the car "crunches" in the morning on a cold start?
    It sounds exactly like someone is holding the key on while the motor is running.
    I've had it to the dealer 3 times. They've replaced the starter and checked the flywheel for damage and found nothing. All three times they duplicated the problem when we left it over night for them. Finally after the third try, the dealer said it was probably just a weird quirk for my particular Neon as they have not seen it on any others.
    Anyone else have this happen to them that knows what's wrong?

    PS: the only reason I'm keeping the pile is the great service we get from the dealer. We've gotten a renatl car for all 7 times it's been in the shop!
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    cldjumper2cldjumper2 Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Neon SXT SOHC autotrans (3.6k)also tends to stumble at idle. Stopped by dealer in Newport News Va. Service advisor stated a new ECM flash is available. The work would take about 45 minutes to complete. All covered under warranty.
    I will post flash results after a 72hr test period ending 8 Aug 02.

    John
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    frenchy2002frenchy2002 Member Posts: 40
    A similar problem occurred with my 5 speed neon 3 times in the past year. Every time it was during very hot weather (but low humidity....I am in Colorado) and when I downshifted for example to get more power driving uphill in the rockies, or to come to a stop. Each of these 3 times, the engine started to stumble (as if I was running out of gas) and then I stalled. If i start the car again, same thing happens. However if I let the car cool down for 30 minutes and start the engine again, it works fine and it won't happen again for a several weeks or months. The car does not overheat, the fan works fine and the water pump is less than a year old. The spark plugs have just 1000 miles on them, and same thing for the spark plug cables. Each time the problem occurs, the "service engine soon" light comes on for 2 days and them it is off. Each time I brought the car in to 3 different place, they told me that it was a misfiring problem (according to the code # they got from the diagnostic) but they did not know what was wrong.
    Any idea? It is obviously heat related. Thank you for your help and sorry about the long post.
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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    I honestly have no idea. Have you tried some of the Chrysler sites? www.allpar.com or register at www.moparts.com and post your problem there. Possibly look for help or a link at www.neons.org
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    frenchy2002frenchy2002 Member Posts: 40
    Could it be a weak coilpack? If so, is that easy to change so I can do it myself?
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    iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    frenchy2002. Do you use gas with alcohol in it??
    My guess is vapor lock. Don't believe the 2002 Neon has a gas return line so if the gas boils in the fuel line you stumble and die. Once the fuel cools off again you can drive normal. Had this problem in a 1982 Nissan pickup years ago. Rick
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    stans40stans40 Member Posts: 16
    Since Chrysler wants $80 for spark plug wires for my 95 Dodge Neon, I am asking about suggestions for good but reasonably priced wires.
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    wenbwenb Member Posts: 45
    Is anyone questioning the throttle response an d shiftong of the 4 speed auto 2002 Neon.I test drove one and it seemed pretty terible. I understand that Dodge has replaced the engine controler chip with a more powerful unit for 2003. they claim quicker response and smoother running engine.The car I drove was so bad it seemed like the software control between engine and transmission was in crash mode. Comparing the drivability to a Kia Rio, the Kia felt like a Ferrari. Both cars had A/C on.I am not talking about racing. I am talking about quick take off and shifting when you step on the gas.The Neon felt reluctant to move out.
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    raimondi1raimondi1 Member Posts: 9
    Anyone know the correct amount of ATF+4 trans.fluid needed when removing pan/changing filter on a 2000 Neon with 3 spd.auto.trans.?
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    daveorbit2daveorbit2 Member Posts: 2
    The shocks you're getting on exiting the vehicle aren't caused by the vehicle electrical system. (the electrical system is 12V). You are getting static shocks. They are preventable by touching the door or other metal part of the car while sliding off of the seat.
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    daveorbit2daveorbit2 Member Posts: 2
    Check your fuses first.
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    micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I've owned and driven both, and also owned and driven the Focus ZX3.

    No problems on either.

    The 1999 handles better out of the box. The Neon S definitely needed better tires. Both cars had Goodyear GA's, but the GA's seemed grippy on the 1999 and sloppy on the 2002. Goodrich Comp T/A's were a major upgrade on the 2002. I also put a front swaybar on the 2002, but couldn't but a rear one on, since the rear shocks no longer come with the necessary mounting brackets.

    The 2002 rides better. Isn't that the inevitable trade off - handling or ride?

    The 2002 feels squooshed down - like the roof is smooshed towards your head. It isn't really, but the long sloping windshield and A pillar make it feel that way. The windshield is naturally harder to reach and clean on the inside.

    Both cars have fast engines, but both benefited from an aftermarket exhaust. On the 2002, I put on a Dodge muffle designed for the DOHC engine and it was much quicker and also quiet. A Magnaflow and resonator on the 1999 were much cheaper, just as fast, slightly louder - in hard acceleration. Both cars hit 55 mph in second gear without a struggle now. There is a definite power bump when the rev's hit the mid range. The 2002 has a K&N air filter, the 1999 just gets the paper element changed every 10,000 miles to allow maximum breathability.

    The 1999 is surprisingly solid on the freeway. 80 mph interstate crusing is no problem, and the car still has passing power, but you have to downshift - 5th gear is way to high.

    On the 2002, fifth is lower and less downshifting is required. This is supposed to hurt freeway mileage, but I got 31 mpg on the interstate. Of course, on a recent trip in the 1999, I think I got 34 mpg - but previous trips were more on the order of 31 mpg, so I might have gotten a faulty fill-up.

    Compared to the Focus ZX3, both Neons are reliable, and quicker too. The four doors are easier for throwing things in the back seat than the ZX3, not to mention much easier on the rare passenger.

    The 1999 handles stiff crosswinds great.

    I got the 2002 up to 110 mph once - accidentally! It was lonely stretch of interstate, and I had earplugs in to reduce the noise level (the car isn't terribly noisy, I just don't like 5 hours of wind drone). With no cars to pace, and no trees to count, I looked down and discovered the speedometer at 110 - that's how well the car handles. You can't judge speed by its handling, only by the increasing wind roar! (Be assured I promptly dropped down to 80).

    The 1999 doesn't seem to have the same "long legs." It'll cruise all day at 80 to 85, has plently of power to pass, but doesn't seem composed enough to cruise at higher speeds for long periods. I'd say the second generation Neon can keep up with just about anything on the highway, but in the 1999 you have to either put up with being passed once in a while, or drive like a maniac (i.e., outside a comfort zone).

    The 2002 is definitely slick. The 1999 is my choice for an urban stealth car, with mountain road capability. It is always underestimated, but gets you were you want to go - fast.
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    jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    Saw a new 2003 Neon on the freeway this morning. I have to say I like the rear end treatment better, the front end is a matter of opinion, but no worse than before.

    My understanding of some of the changes:

    New gear ratio for 5th gear on manual to help with fuel economy and noise on the freeway.

    New engine mount design

    Recalibrated automatic tranny

    New steering wheel

    I wonder what the reason would be to buy a Stratus over a Neon - they are pretty close in size.
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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    What has been your replacement tire of choice for the 185/60-15s that came on the aluminum rims on the 2000s? It seems Goodyear (as far as I've found) seems to have a monopoly on that size. Has anyone put on 195/50s? I'm at 40,000 miles and will need new rubber before the snow comes (if we get any this year). Experiences?
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    micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    Browse the Tire Rack's website at www.tirerack.com - they give you all the sizing choices. Also, here is a website that let's you calculate speedometer variations based on different tire sizes: http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/tyre_bible.html


    I was reluctant to mail order tires and have them installed by a "recommended installer" but it worked out ok. The practice seems well enough established that the installers don't treat you like dirt for not buying from them. They are even friendly and helpful!


    I had 50 tires on a Focus ZX3. Every car is different, but the 50 tires seemed to make the ride hard - I could feel every expansion ridge. Personally I like 60 series tires - squat enough to be laterally stiff, tall enough to protect the rims.


    After trying several current models, I think Bridgestone 950's are worth looking at - easy to balance, quiet, grippy in dry or rain. Look good, too.

    Finally, 195/60x15 should fit nicely and you should have a lot of choices. The Tire Rack or your local installer should be able to help you. I put 205's on my 1999 Neon, but I wouldn't do it again - that was overkill.

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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    I've purchased from Tirerack a couple of times. Once because I needed snow tires and they had the only decent prices. Generally I've found I can shop around and do better locally as their installers charge quite a bit to mount and balance. A friend has access to the equipment at his job and will do it for me for $5 a tire so I may buy from them again this time. I've been running 195/50-15s on my Shelby Charger for over 19 years and don't mind them. That's why I was wondering if anyone has put them on their Neon. I had put Bridgestones on in that size and they were horrible. When it was time to replace them they tried to sell me Bridgestones again. I told them how much the last ones they sold me sucked and I wasn't interested in having them again. I was assured the tires were completely re-engineered and only the name stayed the same. They told me if I didn't like them after a week to come back and they'd give me full credit toward any other tire. I took them and haven't been back. This set is awesome.
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    edmdanedmdan Member Posts: 4
    "lo There, After My 97 Neon warms up a bit I can Hear a very low frequency rumble, vibration seemingly coming from the rear or underneath cabin areas. This is especially noticeable when stopped, but also shows up at about 40 - 50 kph just slightly louder than road noise. Engine RPM, In- Gear or not, Clutch depressed or not, the sound remains the same. It does go away just as I start to accelerate away only to return as mentioned... Local mechanic wants to take things apart to make a guess at what is causing it, at $75 per hour no less....Does anybody out here have any rough ideas? Would be appreciated. thanks
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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Check your exhaust hangers. If one has broken or deteriorated it could all the exhaust to come into contact with some part of the underbody. Accelerating could move the engine thereby moving the exhaust enough to break this contact temporarily. Could also be an in tank fuel pump on its last legs. They some times growl when they're dying. Acceleration may provide enough other noise to mask this growl.
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    zxcvbnzxcvbn Member Posts: 1
    I own a 96 Neon,5sp,4Dr. The engine occasionally cuts out while driving at all speeds. This only occurs while the speedometer is jumping up & down. The cut-out will last for a fraction to as much as 2 or 3 seconds. Any help is appreciated.
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    matteo3matteo3 Member Posts: 3
    Does anybody know what causes the carpeting in the back seat of a 1995 Plymouth Neon to become soaked whenever it rains, and know how to correct the problem? Any help would be appreciated.
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    iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    I put a set of Altezza tail lights on a 99 Neon and then had the problem you have. One of the gaskets behind the light didn't seal good. Try using a garden hose and see if you can see where the water comes in. In my case it also got into the spare tire well too! Good luck!
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    edmdanedmdan Member Posts: 4
    Once again I find myself amazed at how knowlegable some people can be about their cars, and in this case, mine. From just a short note and very few clues, 71charger (a cool car if ever was one) made two guesses and was right on with the fuel pump going bad. after consulting in person with a couple of mechanics, I broke down, and had the darn pump tested... it was still putting out almost normal pressure, but consensus was that it would die without further warning sometime in the next 24hours to six months. I reluctantly spent the $800 to get a new one installed, rather than adding a towing charge to the inevitable. Once again thanks for sharing your expertise.
    PS. I found the noise stopped on a full tank but would return as soon as the level dropped to about three quarter full, Just FYI anyone else gets this problem.
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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    I'm blushing
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    caesarslegioncaesarslegion Member Posts: 109
    I saw the new 2003 neon sxt and I think its a much better looking car. Anyone know if the head gasket thing is taken care of? The 7/70 helps with the ease of mind. I also heard that the auto trans has an extra gear now.
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    71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    The "head gasket thing" was taken care of years ago. There was a thread on Moparts.com a short while ago on Neons. One of the techs on there said they have never had to replace an MLS gasket on a Neon.
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    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I could have sworn reading in this forum that someone had to replace the head gasket on their 2000 Neon. I might be wrong though...
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