Dodge Caravan/Chrysler Voyager



  • ironcity1ironcity1 Member Posts: 4
    Have the above code on my 2001 Dodge Grande Caravan. Looking it up it says: leak detection pump switch or mechanical fault. What is this? Where is this pump located? Thanks for any help!
  • fordford Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Dodge Caravan which had a code 455 and 442. The following is a description of this van. The problem was caused by a 12 inch hose located under the van on the drivers side close to and in front of the liquid/vapor separator canisters. The 5/8 inch ID hose was connected between the front (engine side) of the LDP vent valve and the leak detection pump. Oil from the engine had leaked onto the end of hose connected to the pump. The plastic clamp was broken and the hose had swollen until it was very loose. Replacing the hose and clamps fixed the problem. The LDP vent valve is connected to the largest liquid/vapor canister by a 2 inch long hose. You may need to buy the hose from the Chrysler since it is a shaped hose. Any broken or missing clamps should be replaced with the band type sold by auto parts stores. Any other hose which is split should be replaced. I found one small L shaped hose with different IDs on each end connected to the small liquid/vapor canister which had a small split which I replaced with a hose I got from Chrysler for $5.
  • cheekyvikingcheekyviking Member Posts: 1
    It is raining in my car! I cleaned out the drainage tubes which were totally plugged and thought that would solve the problem. (I live in Portland where it rains constantly). The passenger side drain tube is cracked at the bottom but before I replace that I'd be thrilled to hear some advice. I finally had a dry 3 days and the car seemed fine, so I ran a hose on the windshield, the passenger door, basically all over the front end of the car. Nothing. As soon as it started to rain again, there's now a slow stream of water coming out from underneath the glove box. It smells like water, has no color. It did disappear when I ran the heat (which I haven't done in months), but then slowly trickled again. This can't be normal?! I really want to sell my car but want to identify and fix the problem so I don't pass it off to a buyer (but obviously don't want to break my bank in doing so). Please help!!!
  • skykingdumb1skykingdumb1 Member Posts: 6
    I recently fixed up this van for my handicapped friend. (Auto,since only 1 leg.) While driving the other day, it suddenly lost power to the accelerator. Still running though, for about a mile, and then suddenly had accelerator again. Your help to correct this is appreciated. Need to keep my friend in wheels.
  • rizzo6rizzo6 Member Posts: 2 will search all the U.S salvage yards and give you a # and price!! Most will ship you the part you need
  • rizzo6rizzo6 Member Posts: 2
    Had the same problem took forever to find where the whinning was coming from. Look under the middle of the car while running and listen for a whine while someone else eccelrates it. There is a plastic 3 ball looking thing that has a vacumm in it that helps with pressure. Mine was shrunken from heat and therefore leaked its called a Vac Harness and it was 8.00 from the dealer. part # was 4431325 hope this helps good luck.
  • quetzalcoatquetzalcoat Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 1996 grand voyager three years ago........ just yesterday I tried to detach the spare tire from under the car and I can't figure out how to do it, can't find in the manual how take it down, can somebody tell me how? It seems nobody has ever taken that tire off.
  • docbunnerdocbunner Member Posts: 11
    You have to lift the tailgate and make sure nothing is in the back. You should have a part of the rug that has a plastic round piece in it (driver's side of the compartment.) Lift it up and you should see a white plastic lug that you jack wrench shoud work on. turn it counter clockwise to lower the spare tire all the way down. Do you know where your jack is kept for you van?
  • cmaglingercmaglinger Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem, did you ever fix yours and if so, what did you do?
  • docbunnerdocbunner Member Posts: 11
    I cleaned the mass air flow as instructed to do by the source I gave. It helped some but still has some problem but not as bad as before.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    The problem that I'm having with this thread is that, as far as I know, no 3.3 or 3.8 liter engine produced by Chrysler for use in their minivans has ever had a MAF sensor. Instead, these engines use a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, a sensor that shouldn't be messed with. If someone attempted to clean a MAF sensor on one of these vehicles, there is a good chance that they will irreparably damage the MAP sensor.
  • dexsdodgedexsdodge Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 L and I think the oil pump is going out. Can anyone tell me if that procedure can be done just by removing the oil pan or will the motor have to be removed? Thanks.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    What makes you think the oil pump is failing? I ask because that would be a VERY unusual failure for your eninge.
  • dexsdodgedexsdodge Member Posts: 3
    When I start the motor for the first time in the day, the oil light will come on and stay on. I don't know exactly how long it will stay on because I've only let it run at the most 2 minutes before shutting it off. The engine sounds good during that time. So, my routine is, start the car, shut it off, start it right back up. The light goes off normally after the 2nd start. This only happens once per day. I change the oil & filter on a regular schedule and I maintain the correct level. I changed the oil 2 days ago and for the first time when I started the van to check for leaks, I heard a noise that is similar to valve train ticking with low oil. That only lasted about 3-4 seconds. My guess it is the oil pump even though the ticking hasn't returned.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    A few points:

    1) While the oil pumps have proven to be extremely reliable on these engines (as have the engines themselves), the oil pressure sending unit shows up as an occasional problem area. The standard operating procedure for debugging this is to A) remove the oil pressure sender and screw in a physical gauge, and B) assuming the gauge shows the oil pressure to be in the normal operating range, replace the sender.

    2) A little lifter noise following an oil change is normal for ALL cars and ALL engines, especially so if you don't "prime" the new filter by prefilling it with oil. These engines are also picky about the quality of the "Anti-Drainback Valve" built into the filter, and following a cold-start on some engines using a filter with a less effective ADV will cause the same valve train noise you heard following your oil change. FWIW, I've found that the Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter keeps my engines very quiet following a cold-start, that said, the FL-1A is a larger capacity filter and will require you to add say 5.25 quarts of oil following an oil change to bring the oil level up to the MAX line on the dipstick.

    Long story short, have your engine tested to confirm that the oil pressure is acceptable, and if your engine is like 99% of the other ones out there with an oil pressure light issue, simply replace the sending unit.

    Best regards,
  • rocketphdrocketphd Member Posts: 1
    I had this problem too. Thanks for your solution
  • docbunnerdocbunner Member Posts: 11
    If you would check out Auto Advantage site,( they have tutorial videos that talk about cleaning this MAP/MAF sensors and show where they are located. I have a MAP on my 2003 van and a MAF on my 1993 Plymouth Acclaim. I cleaned them both as instructed to do.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Back to my point, no 3.3 or 3.8 liter engine has ever been manufactured with a MAF sensor. As for cleaning a MAP sensor, not worth the effort. Why? Ninty-nine times out of one-hundred, when a MAP sensor has a problem, no amount of cleaning will even remotely help, the sensor needs to be replaced. If the sensor isn't having a problem, then cleaning it will not improve engine performance in any way, shape or form.
  • voyaowner2000voyaowner2000 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Chrysler Voyager just stops as I am driving. It will continue to stop 10 to 15 times, and then it can be perfect for the next few hours. We changed the crank sensor but it still doing it.

    Hot / cold weather, full or empty tank it doesnt matter.

    Any ideas????
  • oldsalt2oldsalt2 Member Posts: 8
    How about the fuel filter? Mine is a 1999, so I am not sure that the 2000's have a filter. Mine is under the car and costs about $35 from Advance. There are different filters for the Grand and short wheelbase models. Intermittent problems are very difficult to diagnose.

  • ktradektrade Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8 engine now has the ABS light on full time. ABS does not function but brakes are just fine. Pads are OK. Can I read the ABS trouble codes with an ordinary OBD2 reader, or otherwise can I get blink codes out of the computer? If so how do I access the blink codes?

  • caravan03caravan03 Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8 engine now has the ABS light on full time. ABS does not function but brakes are just fine. Pads are OK. Can I read the ABS trouble codes with an ordinary OBD2 reader, or otherwise can I get blink codes out of the computer? If so how do I access the blink codes?
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan with 56k miles. Recently, I notice a rattling or groaning noise only when the air conditioner is turned on. It doesn't occur continuously but from to time to time I can hear the noise when the vehicle is stopped. The noise is similar to that of a bad engine or transmission mount and you can hear a groaning noise when accelerating from a stop. The air conditioner works fine and blows out cold air. Is anyone familiar with this problem? Any advice is very much appreciated.
  • oldsalt2oldsalt2 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1999 with 155,000 miles. I have a similar noise. In the process of diagnosing it, the serpentine belt and idler were changed. This seemed to reduce, but not eliminate the noise. A stethoscope will tell you if you have a similar problem.
  • docbunnerdocbunner Member Posts: 11
    I would have your airconditioning unit checked out. I had a similar noise just before my unit went out on me. When I took it in to have the noise checked out, they discovered thwqt the berings weree going bad which had caused the nosie. they changed out the AC unit and no more problems.
  • shadetreemech2shadetreemech2 Member Posts: 1
    I had a new (rebuilt) transmission put in our 2000 Voyager (174000 miles) and it shifts oddly. Is there any way to reset the "shift points," which, I understand are controlled by the computer?
  • oldsalt2oldsalt2 Member Posts: 8
    I am no expert, but I believe the transmission is supposed to "remember" your driving habits and set shift points accordingly. In other words, if you drive like there's an egg between your sole and the gas pedal, the transmission will shift earlier (to a higher gear) and then remember that and shift earlier in the future. Similarly, if you are a lead foot, then the transmission will stay in lower gears and shift later. It will remember that you drive fast and shift later in the future.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I had the drive belt tensioner replaced and that fixed the problem. Thank you for the advice.
  • nextgenerationnextgeneration Member Posts: 1
    This manual does NOT COVER All-Wheel Drive nor Alternative Fuel Models.
    It compares favorably with other Haynes manuals for conciseness, clarity of both written instructions and photographs and is thorough. I used it step by step to replace horns, headlight bulbs and to go through a 30,000 mile check up and service. I also checked it’s description for changing wiper blades, oil and oil filters, air filters and general repairs and found it both accurate and easy to understand.
    I’ve been happy with Haynes manuals over the years and recommend all vehicle owners purchase one even if you don’t expect to do any repair or service yourself. It helps to know the information, to be aware of how your car works and to talk in a reasonably intelligent manner (on your part anyway) when you take your vehicle in for service.
    I’m happy with this purchase.
    Caravan Insurance
  • hillrhillr Member Posts: 1
    We are experiencing the same noise. Did you get any advice or help on your question? What did you end up doing?
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    I was wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to pressurize the fuel tank (with low pressure through the cap) so that the pressure would feed back toward the engine, causing a hissing sound enabling an easier way to pinpoint the system leak.

    I have in the past found and repaired Evap System leaks due to bad hoses. They were always straight forward & located in the hoses up under the driver's seat area around the pump & valve/box area. This does not seem to be the case this time.

    Due to physical limitation from health issues, I am trying to avoid placing the van up on 4 stands & removing obstructions to hand & visually inspect every line in the Evap/Fuel line system.

    It seems to me that this should be possible by adapting an old cap to put the air into the tank, but I do not know if this approach could damage any parts.

    Any input would be appreciated.
  • tracyscaravantracyscaravan Member Posts: 1
    How do i correct a code PO353 in a 96 caravan
  • gehlotgehlot Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2013
    Need help... some of the dash board lights i.e. speedometer, mileage, fuel, gear not working in my 2002 dodge caravan. While signal, engine, break lights etc. are fine. Could someone help... what is the problem and how to fix?
  • punt1959punt1959 Member Posts: 1
    Here is how I fixed mine on a 2003 caravan
  • ericsmith2ericsmith2 Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan was involved in a sideswipe accident on the drivers side. It was parked in the driveway for several weeks and the battery was drained. I replaced the front drivers side fender, door and rear sliding door on the drivers side with parts from a 2001 Caravan, as well as a brand new battery. Now the heater blower doesn't work on any speed, and the power passenger window doesn't work. The headlights and interior lights seem dim while the vehicle is running even though it's a new battery. There power button for the heater control lights up, the damper moved when you change from hot to cold temperature, but no voltage to the blower motor.

    Any Ideas on where to start looking?
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