Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Most popular vehicles
Popular New Cars
- New Acura MDX
- New Acura RDX
- New Audi Q5
- New BMW 3 Series
- New BMW X3
- New Buick Enclave
- New Cadillac Escalade
- New Chevrolet Equinox
- New Chrysler 300
- New Dodge Challenger
- New Ford Edge
- New Ford Escape
- New Ford Expedition
- New Ford Explorer
- New Ford F-150
- New Ford Focus
- New Ford Mustang
- New Honda Accord
- New Honda Civic
- New Honda CR-V
- New Honda Fit
- New Honda Odyssey
- New Honda Pilot
- New Hyundai Elantra
- New Hyundai Santa Fe
- New Hyundai Sonata
- New Hyundai Tucson
- New Jeep Compass
- New Jeep Grand Cherokee
- New Jeep Wrangler
- New Mazda 3
- New Mazda 6
- New Mazda CX-5
- New Nissan Altima
- New Nissan Maxima
- New Nissan Rogue
- New Porsche Cayenne
- New Ram 1500
- New Subaru Crosstrek
- New Subaru Forester
- New Subaru Impreza
- New Subaru Outback
- New Tesla Model S
- New Tesla Model X
- New Toyota 4Runner
- New Toyota Camry
- New Toyota Corolla
- New Toyota Highlander
- New Toyota Prius
- New Toyota RAV4
- New Toyota Sienna
- New Toyota Tacoma
- New Volkswagen Jetta
- New Volvo XC60
- New Volvo XC90
Popular Used Sedans
- Used BMW 5 Series
- Used Chevrolet Impala
- Used Chevrolet Malibu
- Used Chrysler 200
- Used Dodge Charger
- Used Ford Fusion
- Used Ford Taurus
- Used Honda Accord
- Used Honda Civic
- Used Hyundai Elantra
- Used Hyundai Sonata
- Used Tesla Model S
- Used Toyota Camry
- Used Toyota Corolla
- Used Volkswagen Jetta
Popular Used SUVs
- Used Acura MDX
- Used Acura RDX
- Used Ford Edge
- Used Ford Explorer
- Used Honda CR-V
- Used Honda Pilot
- Used Hyundai Santa Fe
- Used Jeep Compass
- Used Lincoln Navigator
- Used Mazda CX-5
- Used Nissan Rogue
- Used Subaru Crosstrek
- Used Subaru Forester
- Used Tesla Model X
- Used Volvo XC90
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
'bertram60' and 'markc', I like the idea of putting Blizzacs on my stock alloys (and then upgrading my summer tires/wheels). I will give this serious thought. Thanks for the input. Any ideas on what becomes of my Conti's? Do you know if tire stores buy back used equipment? I've only got 500 miles on them.
Also, forgive my ignorance, I keep hearing the terms "plus zero" and "plus one" related to tires. I'm sure I can find answers to this on tirerack, but can someone explain simply for me?
My question is: If long-term reliability were an issue (it certainly isn't for you,since you have leased over two dozen cars in a period during which I've bought two), what would you think of the Audi? In one of your posts, you mentioned "breathtakingly-high maintentance costs" for the Audi (or any other European car) past its warranty.
Here's a concept. Someone enjoys cars that handle well and are sold with a standard transmission and have a pleasant interior. We're at this point down to a half-dozen cars. Now let's imagine that the person buying (not leasing) this car wants to own in for five or ten years and not go broke maintaining it. Is anything available?
I loved my experience with an Audi in Europe (rented car for business) last month, but when I look at what I have to work with here in NA (few dealers, questionable reliability, etc.), I wonder if buying an Audi is a reasonable move for someone who actually buys cars and keeps them for numbers of years that exceed the warranty.
Different perspective, perhaps, but I wonder how many manufacturers sell to the lease market rather than the "buy and hold" market.
In summary the A6 in either 2.7T or 4.2 form will give you a roomy, all-weather luxury daily driver that still yields very little in performance to an all-out sports sedan with few of the more practical virtues.
Though I can afford the M3, the thought of over paying for anything really bugs me. I would not have paid for any of these "premium" prices some of the BMW dealer are asking. That's why I was so happy to find an MSRP BMW dealer who placed me on the waiting list early.
It would not have been possible for me to fit my entire family in these cars anyways. I would have to buy a wagon or a SUV for that purpose. My wife already has a mini-van so this car would be primarily my work car. I just wanted a car that can occassional fit my kids and me on a drive to the movies.
I do not plan on putting my car on the track. And I really do not like racing at stop lights as there are plenty of souped up Honda's out there to embarase me. I just love the way a sport car takes a turn at high trottle without any hint of body roll. The sound of a powerful engine revving and the forces that pulls you into the seat as you accelerate up the highway ramp. Those were the main reasons for my wanting to buy the M3.
I really hate asking members an Audi forum this question, you guys just screwed up all my plans. I guess I will have to look at 2002 A6 more closely now.
Compared to the Jeep, the A6 is FABULOUS....
They found one rim to be warped according to the machine. My car is still under factory warranty, do I have ground to stand on to have them replace the rim. I just recently bought this car ('98 quattro) used and not from the dealer.
If not, where can I get one of these stock rims (16") pretty cheap.
Also, the hunter machine noted that another one of the tires (Which I got from tirerack) had excessive road force (maybe out of round). Will tirerack replace it?
thanks.
http://www.gsp9700.com/index.htm
I haven't studied it in detail, but scanning it suggests some wheel and tire abnormalities can be compensated for using the Hunter system. It also appears complex. (At least for me.) And it's been suggested that it's important to be certain that the technician that works on your tires has been completely trained and is experienced with the system to get the full benefit from the system's capabilities. Looking at their web site, I can understand why that would be vital.
I am assuming from your post that you have a wheel/tire that CAN'T be balanced with the Hunter system. If you are sure you are still under the new vehicle warranty (Not an extended warranty.) and can submit documentation that the wheel is warped, AND NOT DAMAGED, that you could present a warranty claim to a dealer.
I haven't personally done business with Tire Rack, but have never heard anything negative about them. If a tire they sold you is defective, I don't know why they wouldn't replace it.
Stay tuned.
Mark
I can think of none of my friends who have had ANY brand of European Car that they didn't love (more or less) and that was not "breathtakingly expensive" to repair out of warranty. In fact the only European Car I know that was kept out of warranty (for any length of time) and despite what I would consider some expensive repairs ($1400 for a power seat motor -- driver's side) my friend loved was -- a Mercedes Diesel. I also know of a few VW Jetta's (made in Germany so they said) that made it a year or so out of warranty.
My impression of Audi, BMW, Volvo, Saab, Mercedes etc is that they are cars that are in virtually every way superior -- some have different strengths. I particularly think the value and performance and safety proposition -- since I prefer to lease -- is very high for Audis. I do not however think that they are particularly good or bad as long term vehicles (compared to the others on the list). All Europen cars seem to have had their reputations showing signs of improvement over the past 10 years -- and I suspect (and there is some evidence that supports this -- including Consumer Reports) that the Japanese and perhaps even Korean mfgs had a lot to do with this.
I have been reading Car and Driver probably since before I was allowed to drive and I recall FOR YEARS how the letters to the editor would rail against the writers claiming and crying "how could you?" [choose a Japanese car over a German or sometimes even American car}.
My point is the "literature" says if absolute reliability is your #1, well, maybe a European car is NOT for you. I disagree but I also know how my friend's and neighbors take care of their cars from a service perspective -- generally they add oil they don't change it often, they generally do not service the car according to plan that is.
Here is an anecdote that is not unique or even rare: a close friend of mine -- a "worshipper" of BMW's had an Acura -- two oil changes in 50,000 miles. I used to kid him how he was trying to hurt his car -- actually I alwasy thought he was trying to kill it. His maintenance schedule was a car wash when the car became filthy and put the cheapest gas in it possible.
When his economic fortunes changed he switched to BMW's -- his first, a 3 series, with the same treatment as he gave the Acura seemed to develop what I termed as frailties -- ticking valvels, rough running engine, strange smells and noises. He kept it two years and traded up to a 5 series -- this time with an Automatic. Ditto. Then the high output roadster -- he kept it 9000 miles did NO service, when it needed service he bought a 7 series, it has 8000 mile on it, we'll see. Meanwhile multiple Chrysler products for his Au Pair and his wife -- the Timex cars I call them, they take a lickin' and. . .you know the rest.
All of my reading, experience, observation and "tales from my neigbors, co-workers and friends" leads me to believe that the European cars are the highest performing, safest, most fun and all other good things -- but they require maintenance to keep these good things. And they "don't like" not being maintainted. The only exception SEEMS to be the Mercedes (diesel only) -- although one power seat motor would have turned me off.
On the other hand, my Toyota, Honda, Mazda, Subaru driving friends etc. seem to keep their cars basically purring along until they get really sick (which is often close to 100,000 miles), then they shoot them and move on. And, from what I can tell, other than the intial rush they get for the first month or two, most of the folks I know who have the Japanese cars ONLY talk about their reliability, their economy -- virtually never about their Joy of driving.
So this long winded tale is my way of saying I think an Audi CAN -- with appropriate service (that few people ever are willing to keep up with) go 150,000 miles without overhaul. However, Audis, like many Eurpean cars, seem to be for the Joy of Driving (Farfegnuhgen ? -- the driving pleasure) not necessarily for endurance. I would have no problem with an Audi for 75,000 miles with the qualifier that I would want an extended 25,000 mile warranty "just in case" my power seat went south.
Sport and luxury cars from Europe are like exotic women, I mean partners ;<) . One can derive a great deal of pleasure as long as one maintains them well. We are talking about much more than mere transportation, be it a Porsche 986 or an Audi A6 2.7T/4.2 L.
At 175k I still had the original clutch, but that was about it. The car was definitely sick and I had taken great care of this car. A/C system was shot, exhaust was shot, there was some sort of either fuel or distributor problem as the car would just miss randomly and I couldn't fix it, and eventually it was too expensive to repair based on the value of the car. I had purchased a 100k extended warranty and at the end my total warranty repairs were over $18,000 during the first 100k miles and 5 years of ownership almost exactly what I had paid for the car in 1991 (I then bought two Maxima SE's that were nice cars, but mainly cheap transportation with little driving reward).
One of the things that I also believe makes these cars so expensive is the dramatic mark up of parts and service from the dealers. I usually purchased my parts through a wholesaler that I found in "European Car" magazine and was able to cut back on parts costs.
I do believe that these cars are worth the extra expense due to the driver interaction they provide, and if someone is looking to own one long term with high mileage and service it through a dealer, the costs will be frightening based on my experiences (more complex systems and moving parts than any of my VW's) and I doubt that I will keep my A8 beyond it's warranty period. But, I will buy another. Most of us here seem to understand and buy these cars because we're not just looking for "transportation". If we were, I believe this would be the Accord/Camry BBS. FANTOM hit the nail on the head, these are "exotic partners" and as such you take the good with the bad and hopefully end up with fond memories of time well spent.
And the brakes did not shudder and it had a tire pressure feature on the dashboard -- I like those "little" touches.
FYI
? Are you planning on keeping the car longer than 48 months or 50,000 miles?
? How many miles a year do you drive (average)?
? How many miles a year WILL you drive (average)?
? Would you accept the premise that it is better to "buy" what appreciates and "rent" what depreciates?
Comments/Rationalization
I am not an accountant, nor am I a banker or economist by profession -- I own a relatively small business and of course get lots of advice from my fellow business people at the management and executive level. I also talk with my CPA's and bankers at least four times a year. I asked them about leasing vs buying vs financing. They all claimed that financing was the absolute worst thing you could do (to acquire a car) and that "theoretically" buying was the best.
They all said, however, that leasing turns out to be the best deal as long as you drive less than 20,000 miles a year or could get a substantial discount on the miles over a certain limit by prepaying them in the lease payment or having the contract altered to say "miles over such and such will NOT be $.25/mile but will be, for example, $.075/mil."
The logic was something like "with leasing arms [of major mfgs] regularly subsidizing your use of a car" -- that is offering rates that Banks can't touch, it makes NO sense to finance a car period. Only very low milage per year buyers and very high milage per year buyers make buying "sensible." The assumption is that you buy 100% in cash -- if you finance you lose.
Moreover, if you were planning on financing you may find that leasing is STILL more financially advantagious if you do "the spirit" of the following:
1. Find the lease payments for a car for say 36 - 48 months (no money down).
2. Find the finance payments for the same car for the same term.
3. "Estimate the residual value" of the car at the end of the term (generally a Bank Lease, not a car maker's leasing arm will give you a more accurate end of term value as a percentage of MSRP.)
Make the lease payments and place the difference in a "growth instrument" (mutual fund, money market account, heck even the NASDAQ -- uh hold that thought).
At the end of the term of the lease, assuming you haven't beaten the car to death -- you turn the car in and walk away with nothing -- except the cash+earnings in your "growth instrument."
At the end of the financing you "own a car" that every single day beyond the last payment it continues to depreciate.
At the end of the lease you "have some money" that every single day beyond the last payment it [potentially] continues to appreciate.
At the beginning of a similar period of time of "owning" a car from day one (ie you paid 100% on the day you picked up the car) every day means the car depreciates and you do not have the "use" of the money because you spent the entire amount on day one. But you have no payments and you do have a car, in theory at least, beyond the 36 - 48 month term of a lease.
Compared to a finance the buy on day one is clearly a better deal because you have paid only what you pay -- no additional finance charge (no interest).
My CPA says it is "easier" to get the IRS to "accept" a lease payment (or perhaps 50% or 90% or whatever portion of the car's use is attributable to "business") as a legitimate expense item -- than it is the depreciation on an owned car (since I do not personally do my own taxes I'll take their word on it).
So to repeat, I can only "justify" NOT leasing if I drive very few miles annually or very many miles annually.
And to further my comments about European cars, if I were to factor my own experience with some of the posts on this BB, buying a European car and keeping it for a long long long time MUST cost more in the long run than getting a new one about every 18 - 30 months. Or at least it costs no more -- unless nothing breaks out of warranty.
"You pays your money and you takes your choice" -- or more grammatically correct words to that effect.
I'm currently tugging over leasing an A6 2.7T or maybe the Allroad Quattro.
anyways, I need all you experts/enthusiasts to let me know if this is a good deal.
my local dealer is offering me a similar lease for either of the two.
for a $46,925 Allroad that includes almost all the options[premium package, bose system]..excluding navigation, he is offering me either:
39 month lease
$645.27 for 12K miles per
or
48 month lease
$603.40 for 12K miles per
This also includes ALL maintenance + oil changes free of charge during the lease period.
I'm thinking this will save me at least 500 to 1,000 dollars.
he is also giving me a 2.9% finance special
does this sound reasonable? if this deal proves to be good, I might just haggle with him on a A6 for about 4 grand less.
all opinions welcome.
thanks in advance.
I seriously considered leasing two vehicles ago. Having done due diligence, and given the fact that I often drive over 20K miles per year, I opted out and bought the vehicle that time. Turned out it had a lousy automatic transmission, and I went back to my previous paradigm, which was/is -- manual transmissions all the way. In addition, the "gap insurance" thing worried me. If one drive a lot (and I do), totalling a vehicle is a possiblity, and leasing when that happens appears to add to the overall degree of difficulty, given that it's often possible to be upside down on dealer/manufacturer subsidized leases.
I plead guilty to having bought a bulletproof Asian vehicle. My '74 Datusun 240Z that I drove off the showroom floor with 6 miles on it still had a lot of engine life in it when it was totalled in '84 with 224K miles on it. I've tolerated MGB eccentricities ('65, 3 brg), but that was when one could work on one's own car. Those days are gone. Happiness = Reality - Expectations. My expectations have been set fairly high by the "Z." Forgive me.
What I think I hear you saying is that if I choose to drive a European auto (yeah, I owned a Volvo -- won't do it again), the only sane way to approach it is to lease. Thanks for the informed input.
I think I'm still pining for the days when it was possible to buy a fun vehicle that would run 100K+ miles with only tire & shock maintenance. I've seen it and I've done it -- it is possible. OTOH, that was then, and this is now.
If the GS came with a manual, I'd probably be a serious participant in their BB, or their showroom. It doesn't, and I'm not. The folks who participate there don't talk about the things I'm interested in (to put the best possible spin on it), and you folks do.
If I want a well-made car with a decent interior with a manual transmission that's fun to drive, I need to lease. This is a statement I'll need some time to get used to.
Not that I won't. I just need time.
So where can I get a used/straight A6 OEM wheel? Any used parts dealer that you can think of that will guarantee it is straight. Are there any problems that I could run into by doing this?
Also, I need to replace the wiper blades (not just inserts) because they seem to be very loose and the connection point and skip and the glass when it rains. Should I get OEM replacing or are there others out there they fit a '98 A6.
Whenever I have been loaned an A6 2.8 quattro (2001), I can comment that the brakes on the 2.8 feel firm, don't shudder and seem superior to the 4.2 brakes, overall.
Currently I have ALMOST 100 miles on my "newly" turned A6 4.2 front rotors, and they seem better than before -- the magic number is 150 miles and I have not had the car over 55 miles an hour (lots of construction here in River City) and touched the brakes. Report will follow.
My ONLY issue with my recent Audis has been brakes (and not braking capability, just sound and feel) -- made even more "aggravating" after having spent two days with a 2001 Avis rental Bonneville, which had flawless brakes (from a sound and feel standpoint that is). My wife's TT brakes are also fantastic, ditto her last two A4's (a '96 and a '98).
The number of brake complaints in magazines and from at least three Internet BB's regarding Audi brakes should mean that the next generation of Audis will "cure" this problem. My understanding is that the S8's have Brembo's on them and that the lesser A8's have the same brakes and the same issues as I have experienced.
At this point I would say my brakes are the best they have ever been -- but they still are hardly what one would expect from a car with an MSRP of $56,000+!
The breed IS improving and I will have another thank you, however.
http://www.audiworld.com/classifieds/index.html
If your car is still under warranty, as you said in your first post, the wiper blade, as opposed to the insert, should also still be under warranty since it's not a consumable item like pads.
Another source for both items would be Clair Motors. They are an Audi (And other brands) dealer that does a significant mail order business in OEM parts at DISCOUNTED prices. I suggest you visit their website to see if you can find what you're looking for, and if not, give them a call.
Legitimate issues from loyal subjects.
This BB is hardly a [non-permissible content removed] board -- this is where "Audi People (employees, that is)" should be looking to see where the product needs help.
The warped front windshield and spongy, purring or shuddering brakes are repeat entries.
Here are your clues [Audi] where you might consider focusing improvements to your upcoming models.
Put BMW or Porsche or Mercedes brakes on the Audi cars -- they must come from a population of the same suppliers.
Ditto the other things that "annoy" customers.
Spongy brakes -- I would cure that problem quickly.
Warped (visually) glass -- it can't be that hard to make a clear, undistorted windshield -- although I must admit it doesn't bother me (I actually never noticed it until someone pointed it out here on the BB).
Anyway -- this forum is perhaps the Clue (for Audi) that:
"A powerful global conversation has begun.
Through the Internet, people are discovering and
inventing new ways to share relevant knowledge
with blinding speed. As a direct result, markets are
getting smarter—and getting smarter faster than
most companies."
The ClueTrain Manifesto. www.cluetrain.com.
Get a clue.
Seriously though, most A6's DO have this. The conjecture as to why ranges from soft glass to flexing upon installation. My theory tends toward the latter. If you look at the windshield it is both very large and convex. It's easy to see how while installing, stresses could result in enough flex to give you some distortion. This is supported by the fact that evidently you can't necessarily see any distortion until the windshield is installed. Some owners have gone through multiple replacements without being able to get one without it. The windshield is also steeply raked. Since this means you're not just looking through the glass, but rather looking through a diagonal cross section, this would tend to magnify (pun intended) any distortion. Mine is minor and pretty much out of the driver's line of sight. FWIW, there's a TSB out on this problem.
Or, pick up a "European Car" magazine and look in the back ads, there are usually two or three companies out there, but you'll have to send the wheel to them and will need to put something on the car (spare would work) until you get the other wheel back.
Audiworld would also be my choice for locating an OEM wheel or go to The Wheel Exchange about straightening or buying a "take off" wheel. They always seem to have something there, and they also do a great job re-finishing. (www.thewheelexchange.com) I have some 18" Speedlines that I'll sell you, but they need to be re-finished as they are showing some wear.
The current issue of R&T (p. 49) says: "... gasoline 2.7-liter twin-turbo V-6 (uprated from 247 bhp to 266 bhp)..."
Has anyone else heard / seen this?
I searched a few web sites (and searched back several pages of posts on this forum) looking for a confirmation, with no success.
Thanks,
- Ray
Who is working hard on narrowing down the field of potential replacements for his current car...
i'm not having much luck finding the past posts about breaking in the engine. salesman told me to take it easy (but vary highway speeds every so often) for the first 650 miles, which, in my experience, is not that many miles for a proper break-in. any suggestions as to a more appropriate break-in process?
Could anyone tell me if this is an expensive repair and if so, is it a good idea to get the whole car checked out and the brakes taken care of at an Audi dealer? Our Audi dealers in the city do not have any open appointments until the 4th of September and I do not want to drive around in this condition. I presume it is risky with the ball and socket joint behaving strangely?
Markcincinnati, could you also please respond to this? Thanks a lot....
However, therefore, notwithstanding --- you may not have to pay for ALL the repairs yourself. You may get some sympathy (which will be called Good Will) from AoA. This will be a "delicate" process.
First, let's answer the "easiest" question on your post: "is it a good idea to get the whole car checked out and the brakes taken care of at an Audi dealer? Our Audi dealers in the city do not have any open appointments until the 4th of September and I do not want to drive around in this condition. I presume it is risky with the ball and socket joint behaving strangely?"
Yes, get the whole car checked out. IMO this [the whole car checkup] is a safety issue first and a drivability issue second. I would consider having EVERYTHING done at an Audi dealer -- for the following reason: the repairs, paperwork, papers you expect to receive (e.g. warranty book, etc.) on this car will be part of the "case" you will be assembling to attempt to get some of the repairs paid for by AoA as part of their "good will" (read discrentionary) participation. If you have all the papers, work and books from an authorized Audi dealer, I believe this will be persuasive in "easing your $ pain."
Again, you are in need -- if for no other reason than peace of mind -- of repairs and a check up that will probably effect the safety and drivability of the car; and, your next concern is financial.
Everything you do in these regards -- if they are to in any way have any chance of mitigating your financial problem -- must be supportive of the other issues and purposes. It may be (and based on your post, it probably will be) inconvenient and at least temporarily expensive.
I take it this car does not, or did not qualify to be a "certified pre-owned" Audi -- which I believe does carry some warranty and assurances that it is indeed "drivable" and more imporantly, safe.
Now for the extreme part of my comment, and this is based on direct, personal experience: the word pristine may help you more than you can imagine or virtually totally remove any chance you have at financial relief.
I purchase a "mint condition" MGB some years ago. It was red, it was beautiful -- of course it was a convertable. It needed batteries (it had two of them), an new alternator and voltage regulator, a new exhaust system and it leaked engine oil (it was an MGB remember). It was breathtakingly expensive to repair.
So I went to court -- the judge (kinda like a judge Judy type) asked me if I saw the car before I bought it "yes" then did I drive the car "yes" (again) -- and finally what did I think of the car "I thought it was in mint condition" (quoting from the ad in the newspaper). Well sir, by your own definition of "mint" condition and the fact that you were not denied the opportunity to view and drive the car, I find in favor of the defendant, case dismissed.
To repeat, I lost, I bought the car and the expensive repairs because I agreed that it was in mint condition when I bought it.
Now, if the seller testifies that it was represented in "pristine" condition and is placed in the position to define the term and the car can be shown not to have been in this condition, you will probably win the costs to bring it to the seller's defintion of pristine.
I am not offering, nor am I qualified to offer legal advice, I am not a lawyer -- I am married to one who refuses to get involved in doling out legal advice unless she is retained as her client's counsel. However, the experience I had is in possibly the same spirit as yours.
But, I think your chances of "persuading" (not arguing or threatening) a good will case (@ 45,000 miles) and perhaps -- if you have something, even an advertisement or something on letterhead signed by someone at the selling dealership using words like pristine condition -- EVEN though your bill of sale probably says "as is" are better than 50 - 50.
Hope this helps.
Don't worry about anything else -- but try for at least 200 miles to not have any panic stops, as you may have read, on this BB, the rotors on this version of the A6 are at least somewhat susecptible to warping. Some moreso than others.
This is a great car, congratulations.
It's exactly the same as the Audi A-6 under the skin for thousands less. All your paying for is the snob value and free service, and those thousands will buy a lot of service.
Finally, this is not meant to say that the Passat is not a very fine automobile. I would not in any way mind having one. But, a VW Passat, at this moment in time, no matter how optioned or packaged is not an Audi -- and if it is comparable to any Audi, it is more likely to be comparable to the A4 not the A6. I'll leave it at my original comment -- VW's and Audis are cousins, perhaps first cousins. I have been to the Audi factory in Germany, I called a Passat an Audi A5 once -- got the "education" of my life.
Read on McDuff.
Does anyone have info on these warranties?
As you mentioned, I am going to get the dealer to fix the problem.
Thanks again....
You're paying for the brand, not a better vehicle.
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/46969/article.html
I just read the article at the url you posted. What can I say? I guess if the author cannot tell the difference between the Audi TT and the Volkswaggon New Beatle (The article lists them as rebadged twins.) it's not surprising to find that the author also cannot distinguish between the A6 and the Passat.
Perhaps some one on this board could recommend a good optometrist.
Steve
I'd rather have equal performance and invest the left over $$. If you want to spend the extra money on style, that's your choice. Remember it will depreciate.
If someone can tell me what the real differences are besides the body, I'd like to hear it.
If you want a VW get it. You will have a very nice car from any point of view I can think of (excpet that it is an Audi in VW clothing, of course). The edmunds article, as has been mentioned, lacks a certain degree of credence when it makes the statement that a VW New Beelte and an Audi TT are from the same parts bin therefore they are for all practical purposes the same or twin cars. This just isn't the case. "I knew Jack Kennedy, I worked with Jack Kennedy and you sir are no Jack Kennedy -- and you don't spell potato with an "e" on the end."
Well you may not agree but I'm certain you will acknowlege that many of the opinions (and I presume upcoming posts will also present "factual" information) are likewise unwavering, a Passat is not an Audi A6 (or A4, actually, for that matter). The content, style, fit and finish, and the list of other differentiators is long (and often quite subtle). If you think then, that Audi's are overpriced -- much in the same way I think Audi's are a bargain when compared to Bimmers and Merc's -- you will enjoy the very fine VW Passat. If on the other hand, you think that Audi's do have that "certain something" but can't identify it, you will buy the VW and always have a little buyer's remorse for not getting the Audi.
A friend of mine did buy the Passat -- and about 18 months later traded it for an A4. To say he went from very happy to delighted would be no understatement.
As has been said (even by me) "You pays your money and you takes your choice."