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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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    gregthecanuckgregthecanuck Member Posts: 3
    Hello -

    This is my first posting so please be patient :)

    I am in Canada shopping for an '02 ES. The list price before taxes is $37,810. This includes:

    $1095 freight
    105 color charge
    100 air. conditioning tax

    I plan to take advantage of the 0.9% financing offer for 3 years. This is a better deal than the alternative $1000 cash-back offer.

    I'm not the type to dicker around. I don't know what the dealer cost is, nor do I know the factory to dealer incentives.

    My father - a car buying "shark" :) - suggested I make an offer of $32,800 - that's $5000 below list. He says this makes perfect sense because this model is looking at a year's depreciation very soon, there is way more wiggle room than the dealer lets on (especially on the ES model with the overpriced add-ons), etc...

    Has anyone managed to get a deal similar to this? I plan of faxing my offer so it's all in writing. The worst the dealer can do is say "no" and counter-offer. :)

    I couldn't find any information online that gave even a rough idea of what the dealer cost _really_ was on an MPV. I'm all for the dealers making 3-5% profit, but I don't want to be gouged either.

    Thanks for any input from our smart shoppers on this board.
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    subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Maybe one of the kind Edmunds hosts or other Canadian members will offer better results, but I found this: http://www.edmunds.com/new/2002/mazda/mpv/index.html. Go to the TMV section and price out your van, taking the cost in U.S $ and converting to Canadian $. That might get you a ballpark figure. I've also used http://carsdirect.com to get pricing and then kind of use both the Edmunds & CarsDirect figures. It's always better to have more than 1 opinion ;-)


    YMMV,


    -Brian

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    alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    A person posted Canadian invoice prices for LX and ES on mpvclub site. This could help: http://www.mpvclub.com/forum/index.php?board=9;action=display;threadid=1008
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    owr084owr084 Member Posts: 46
    Greg -

    A simpler solution would be to let your father do all the negotiations and then you show up four or five hours later and write them a check (or is it "cheque?" :)

    RBB
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There used to be at least one Canadian site that purported to give you dealer invoice prices for Canadian cars....for a fee. I don't remember the URL anymore, so maybe a Canadian can help out (perhaps it's the carcostcanada.com one?).

    (edit - apa.ca is another one)

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
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    gregthecanuckgregthecanuck Member Posts: 3
    Thank all for the input.

    subearu: Don't take the US price and convert to Canadian. You will realize the Canadian buyers get a better deal! I suspect that's why we only get a $1000 cash rebate while USA gets $2000 :)

    alexv1n: YOU RULE! Thanks for the pricing link to mpvclub.com - I just joined up there as well.

    owr084: Hey I just turned 40! Don't need my dad around except for the sage advice. :) He managed to get a great deal on a Yukon so I'm all ears.

    steve_: Yes it's carcostcanada.com but they want $50 for something that turned out to be already available on mpvclub.com.
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    gregthecanuckgregthecanuck Member Posts: 3
    One more question folks -

    Does anyone know what the factory-to-dealer incentives are for the Canadian '02 ES?

    In mpvclub.com someone mentioned $1500US for the USA model but I think that expired a month or two ago.

    Thanks again folks!
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    mazdazemazdaze Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone who owns a 2000 MPV had a premature tire wear on both front tires. It seems the wear is on the inner part of the tire side. Had rotated and balance tires as scheduled. The wear pattern only shows halfway around the circumference of the tire and separation of tread is evident between 23k and 25k. Any comments or experiences appreciated.

    Thanks folks.
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    once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    Maltb, the dealer did use a pen and found a small impact spot about 1" from the side of windshield. (I wonder if the dealers get issued a special "windshield" pen). Anyway, it didn't get warranted repair.

    The good news is that a local windshield installer came to our house and put a new windshield and gasket in for $260. They did an excellent job and it is just like new.
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    $260 is a great price considering how huge that glass is.

    I have my issues with the pen procedure, but for the most part, it really cuts down on fraudulent claims.
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    jwm271jwm271 Member Posts: 27
    The comprehensive section of my vehicle insuance is for actual cash value with no deductible & has replaced 3 windshields in my Aerostar van at no cost to me. The glass companies do all of the insurance paperwork & these losses don't seem to have an effect on rates like an accident does. Policies may vary in other states, I live in Ky.
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    once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    jwm, thanks for the encouragement to pull out my policy and check. As much as I hate reading those things, for $260 it is worth my time.

    Our policy has a $250 deductible comprehensive. In 15 years of buying insurance, we have never had a claim. Our policy for the '02 LX is $820 per year with State Farm. I hate to think how much we have spent on insurance of many sorts in our life, it is one of those necessary evils that I hope I will never have to use. Nevertheless, I would rather have a bank account with $100k in it than the years of "security" insurance has provided.
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    cards_200cards_200 Member Posts: 44
    I had very similar to you - with Yoko tires on 2000 at about same mileage. I had kept them rotated & proper inflation. When mine went - they went quick. I questioned waranty with tire dealer without success. I didn't push too much, just chalked it up to low quality OEM tires.
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    dossusadossusa Member Posts: 1
    I'm thinking about buying a used 2000 MPV. I've read the messages on the sulfur smell. When does it come up? Immediately after starting the van, or after it runs for a while? If it takes a while, how long does the van have to run before you notice it? Does the type of driving (speed, etc.) or the weather (heat, cold, etc.) play a factor in if or when it starts? Please advise. Just wanting to know so I can properly evaluate any MPV I test drive for the smell. Thanks.
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    mass3mass3 Member Posts: 6
    I have an MPV 2000 van and have a problem getting my shifter out of park. I borught it back to the dealership and they were unable to find a problem. It does not happen every time I start the car, but at least 3-5 times a week. I know one of these days it's goign to break aadn I'm afraid it may slip while I'm driving. Any suggestions. I've tried depressing the brake, adjusting the sterring wheel.
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    subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Do you park on an incline? That can cause shifting out of park to be hard. If that is the case, before putting your MPV in park, apply the parking brake fully, then put the selector into park. Then, when you're ready to drive again, shift out of park and release the parking brake.

    If the incline thing isn't the problem, it could be something to do with the brake-shift interlock (the reason you need to depress the brake to shift out of park). Maybe it needs adjustment or the switch is bad?

    -Brian
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    alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    First suggestion I would try is to use parking brake as subearu has explained. If this doesn't help, the following TSB may be applicable to your van: http://www.mpvclub.com/index.php?action=showtsb;TsbNo=31 (Automatic transaxle - hard to shift out of park position)


    I hope this helps.

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    crissmancrissman Member Posts: 145
    My 2000 MPV has experienced some of this problem. I've kind of gotten in the habit of shifting to Neutral, applying the parking brake enough to hold the van, then shifting to Park. It's a bit of a pain, but it works. And, the van stays out of the shop.
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    billmckinleybillmckinley Member Posts: 167
    Weather conditions don't seem to have much effect on the problem when it occurs, though hot, humid weather might make the smell more evident. On mine, an '01, the smell starts when the van is thoroughly warmed up--usually 5-10 minutes of normal dirving, more than enough to notice if you give it a thorough test drive. A word of warning, though. With my car, it's always been more of a problem for those around me than it is for me. It rarely penetrates the cabin. Occasionally, I WILL notice it if I'm caught in traffic and stopped after the car is warm. But that's rare. I'm more apt to notice it as I get out of the car after driving it. And it definitely varies with the gas I use. I get my best result with Sunoco, though I suspect that is changeable with location. A number of us do have the problem, but I think most are like me--it's not enough of a problem (at least to me, inside the car) to cause me to regret the purchase.
    Good luck on your hunt.

    RJ
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    danandkatdanandkat Member Posts: 67
    My brother has State Farm, and he had a windshield replaced and State Farm waived the deductible. IIRC, he was told that State Farm doesn't enforce the deductible for glass damage. While this might vary by state or policy type, it might be worth checking with your agent. dan
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    once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    thanks for the hot tip... will check it out and report back.
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    basurfbasurf Member Posts: 42
    Smell seems to come and go on our van...or at least me noticing it since it is my wife's vehicle...I smell it now and then when she pulls in the garage. I am like the other person I have never had it come inside the car it is an outside thing. I have noticed it really has to do with whatever gas she uses because sometimes the smell isn't around...other times it is definitely there. Also, this is always after she has been driving it for a good while.
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    docjandocjan Member Posts: 1
    The first car I ever bought, an 87 Toyota Corolla, was stinking within a month. I called the dealer, who asked what gas I was using. Arco Regular, the cheapest around. He recommended using Chevron Supreme for a while. I did, and the odor went away...for the next 15 years.

    Finally got rid of the old Corolla to get our new MPV! Had it for 3 weeks, no sulfur smell yet.
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    otherthanthatotherthanthat Member Posts: 4
    This is my first posting. I have a brand-new 2002 MPV (45 miles on odometer at purchase). The first 3 days were great. On the fourth day my husband was driving on the interstate, using cruise control, when the van began to accelerate drastically. This did not stop, even when he put on the brakes, disengaged the cruise control, and pushed the button to turn the cruise control off. The tachometer zoomed into the red zone. He slowed the car down by braking hard, and got onto the shoulder of the highway. He and our two children were very lucky! Once stopped, he cut off the engine. He cranked the car again, briefly, and the engine resumed racing. He was towed to the nearest dealer, who could not find a problem. The mechanic suggested that it was apparently a cruise control problem. Yesterday I had it checked at the closest Mazda dealer. Their technician also could not make it duplicate the problem. If I understood him correctly, either the throttle cable or the cable from the cruise control to the throttle could have stuck, causing the problem. He had not tried replacing any parts, saying, essentially, Mazda wouldn't pay for parts if he couldn't demonstrate that there was a problem with them. HELP!!! What do I do now? Anyone had a similar problem? Is this really a problem with the cruise mechanism, or was it actually the cable from the accelerator that stuck? Am I playing Russian roulette driving my kids to school every day? How can I quickly get what I need from a dealer--assurance that this will never happen again? This is a huge SAFETY ISSUE to me!
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    You need to get the dealer to test it the same way that made it stick when hubby was driving it. If they can't get it to duplicate, I'd make a big stink with Mazda's customer hotline. A stuck cruise cable IS a serious issue. I definitely sounds mechanical and to have the dealer at least take it apart for inspection shouldn't be a big deal. Call Mazda at 800-222-5500 and get them involved.
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    once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    State farm said the windshield replacement has the deductible requirement; however, they said that "repairs" have no deductible. Interesting, must be a way to get people to repair their windshields rather than replace. The statisticians have been working overtime again lol.

    once
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Novvus, for one, repairs dings in windshields, but I beleive most windshield shops won't/can't repair them after they've spidered, or began sending cracks. So, if you have an actual crack the windshield needs replacing, esp if it's int eh driver's field of view, which is generally determined by using an 8.5x11 sheet of paper lined up w/the bottom of the blue tint, right in front of the steering wheel. Anything in this region is grounds for replacement, according to my State Farm agent. I've had bulls-eyes repaired successfully before, as I'd rather keep the original windshield if possible. Don't want some hack giving my van a bad seal. ;)
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    evaddaveevaddave Member Posts: 156
    The DW complained to me today that her driver's side window got stuck. Sure enough, when I went out to check on it, the window wouldn't go up yet it would go down.

    In both directions I hear the motor running, but when it goes to push the window up it doesn't seem to do anything. I can pull the window up with my hand (but that sorta defeats having power windows).

    It sounds like I need to take this to the dealer to get fixed. Has anyone else had the problem?
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    luvmpvluvmpv Member Posts: 1
    Let's try this again
    Does anyone know of an aftermarket rear windshield wiper holder or ledge. I have a 2001 mpv and everytime I go through a car wash the washer strips hit the wiper blade and it sticks out until the wash is complete. I'm afraid it's going to break off. Also I remember posts about Michelin tires. What tires are recommended for the mpv? The tires that came with the van seem to slide too much. Also my driveway slants downhill so I can relate to the shifting problem. I will try the solutions mentioned. My 1988 camry used to do the same thing.
    I only have 5000 plus miles on the van but absolutely love it so far.
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    I can relate to your annoyance of the rear wiper, but personally, I think I'd prefer the wiper being pulled back than the car wash ripping it off completely, which I can imagine happening if it were held down... and have witnessed on some vehicles w/ the held-down rear wipers... in the event that the cloth 'brushes' on the car wash get stuck. Just my $0.02

    What do you mean by 'The tires that came with the van seem to slide too much'? Are you speaking to the tires' wet handling, or cornering grip? When thinking of going w/some Michelin tires, make sure the load rating on the tire is 94 at least, because of the weight rating of the van itself. I know that some folks have tried Michelin tires, but I believe they've found them lacking in load rating (only 93V). Some options (per TireRack.com): Dunlop SP5000 (95V), Yokohama AVS db (94V), Bridgestone Potenza RE92 (94V), and the Dunlop SP Sport A2 (94H). Personally, I'd opt for the Dunlop SP Sport A2 or Yokohama AVS db tires if/when replacing, but haven't had issues w/the stock Dunlop Sport 4000s aside from disappointing wear.
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    The few times I have taken it in for wash (when I get lazy), my local car wash just used masking tape to hold down the wiper. They removed it after the wash without a problem.
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    kczmudzinkczmudzin Member Posts: 39
    I have a 2002LX and it sounded a false alarm the other day. First, what causes the alaram to
    sound? Second, how can it sound a false alarm?

    --kcz
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    beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    Michelin makes a great tire, so I can see why you'd want to go with them. However, be careful if you have 15" wheels. For example, the X-Ones in the oem size of 205/65/15 only have a load rating of 92T (not good), whereas the same tire in 215/65/15 is rated at 95T (above oem spec). You may introduce some speedo error with the slightly larger tire size, but that's better than overloading your tires. If you have 16" wheels, then you're OK with the X-Ones in 215/60/16 (94T) or 225/60/16 (97T). If you want to stick with Michelin as your only choice, I'd go with the Pilot XGT H4 because they are H speed rated and are more of a high performance tire. Again, be aware of the load ratings.
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    javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Why didn't you keep your X-Ones on your MPV, Beach? I forgot... were they 15"ers?

    My previous post wasn't to dis Michelins, if anyone percieved it as that. They do make some fine tires. I've always wanted something more performance-oriented, as well as not being willing to pay the higher prices that Michelins seem to have.
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    mainsail2mainsail2 Member Posts: 77
    Has anyone got advice on this? I'm taking my 2000 in and noticed that 1) nothing is mentioned in the owner's manual about a fuel filter replacement regardless of mileage. Does this mean it NEVER has to be replaced? I normally replace the ff at 30k. 2) it is recommended that the brake fluid be replaced? Since I had all of the brake "Shop Notices" done at the dealer two months ago, wouldn't t the fluid have been replaced then? If not, I still do not understand the point in replacing the fluid before the brakes are normally replaced. Does climate have anything to do with this?
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    beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    Yep, they were 15", I took them off when I got the 16" alloys for the MPV. I put the X1s on my Accord where they're better suited. I really like the Dunlop SP4000s that came with the alloys. When they wear out, I'll prolly go with the SP5000s like TB did.
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    danandkatdanandkat Member Posts: 67
    By any chance did you (or another key holder) have the remote fob in your pocket or somewhere else that the panic button might have inadvertently been pushed? That would be my first guess.
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    When ours goes off I just look for junior and snatch mom's keys back. If the panic button weren't red, he'd probably just lock/unlock the car. Oh well, I guess our neighborhood is such that I blame my kids first...a good thing.
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    kczmudzinkczmudzin Member Posts: 39
    Now that you mentioned this... I was surprised by my wife who turned the alarm off right away from our deck, which is behind the house; the van was parked in the driveway. She had the key on her and I bet she accidently pushed the panic button.

    But I still would like to know when the alarm is supposed to go off by design. As I said, I tried to use wrong keys to open the van, I tired to shake it and nothing happened. Would elevating the front of the van (in preparation for towing, for example) set the alarm off?

    --kcz
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    danandkatdanandkat Member Posts: 67
    According to my manual (page 3-21 for an '01 LX) the alarm sounds off due to:

    1) Forcing open a door, the hood or the liftgate
    2) Opening a door or the hood by operating an inside door-lock button or the hood release handle.

    The horn sounds intermittently and the hazard warning lights and headlights flash. This continues for about three minutes before stopping. If it is set off again, the alarm will sound unitl a door/liftgate is unlocked with a key or transmitter.

    So it sounds like if someone breaks a window or shakes the van violently, it would not set off the van. If someone breaks the window, and then reaches in to unlock the door, the alarm will sound. Also sounds like you could tow it, though if the van is in gear with parking brake set, that might not work too well.

    Of course, hitting the panic button will set off the alarm, too. ;<)

    dan
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    otherthanthatotherthanthat Member Posts: 4
    Where is everyone? I was hoping for more help from all you MMMMMs (Mechanically-Minded Mazda MPV Masters) in dealing with my problem--see message #2175. It's not just an inconvenience; it's a PROBLEM when your throttle sticks in the wide-open position and will not cut off as you barrel down the interstate and your engine is at 7K to 8K RPM! Dealer #3 checked it yesterday and, again, could not find the cause or get it to repeat the problem. This is the dealer from whom we bought the car. They called Mazda's tech people, who gave them the OK to replace the cruise control servo. They have to send the old one to Mazda to be examined. Since they can't find anything wrong with the cables, they assume it is a control problem. Does this sound like a reasonable and complete solution? Is there anything else I should ask for? BTW, thanks Maltb for the suggestion about calling the national Customer Service line. I haven't felt the need yet, but who knows?
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    tbonertboner Member Posts: 402
    Where do you get an MPV engine that revs to 8K RPMs. I could really use one that doesn't cut off at about 6250 ;) I could get my SVT to over 160 MPH if the computer didn't shut the fuel off at nearly 7K RPMs (your MPV will shut off sooner.)

    Is is something as simple as a floormat?

    Or, if it really is going up to 8K RPMs then perhaps there is a computer issue. However, I do suspect there is either a throttle cable/cruise control cable issue, or perhaps the throttle return spring on the throttle body is suspect. The spring could be getting stuck and not pressing the throttle cable back.

    What does the pedal do, does it stay stuck to the floor when the problem occurs? If it does, can you easily pull it back with your foot.

    To me, the only thing that seems likely to intermittently stick is a spring. I suspose it is possible for a cable to have a "sticky spot" that you don't always hit. However, the throttle return spring is not a that lengthens and shortens when you press and release the throttle. It is more like a clock spring that gets wound and unwound as you manipulate the throttle. It is possible that during a full throttle condition, the spring winds on itself and perhaps binds on itself and sticks.

    I suppose, in your first case, your dealer could have disconnected the cruse control cable from the throttle, without replacing any parts, to isolate what might cause the problem. I certainly would not have done simply nothing. It takes about 30 seconds to remove and tie that cable away. It takes about the same amount of time to return it to the way Mazda built the van.

    So if the problem returns, I would suggest this to your dealer. They should be able to disconnect the cable from the cruise control actuator to the throttle body.

    This then isolates the system to just your accelerator pedal, the throttle cable and the throttle body.

    If it still happens, it is one of those three things. If not, then the problem is probably in the cruise control system.

    HTH,

    TB
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    mazda_guymazda_guy Member Posts: 183
    mainsail2, here it is what my dealer reccomends at 30,000.
    - Change oil and filter or flush oil system
    - Lubricate doors, hinges, and chassis
    - Add oil system conditioner
    - Perform fuel and induction service and servcie throttle body.
    - Replace air filter
    - Inspect brake pads and rotors
    - Rotate and balance wheels
    - Inspect alignment
    - Replace brake fluid
    - Automatic transmission service
    - Install transmissinon conditioner
    - Replace spark plugs or at 60,000 miles
    - Install power steering conditioner
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I'd avoid that dealer for the following reasons:
    -Add oil system conditioner
    -Install power steering conditioner
    -Install transmission conditioner
    -Perform fuel and induction service and service throttle body. what the heck for?
    -Change oil and filter or flush oil system flush system? if you change your oil at least every 5k miles, that is totally bogus
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what service you need and how much it should cost.


    Note that lots of Quest owners have problems with "sticky" throttles due to dirty throttle bodies. Some clean theirs every 15 to 30k miles. I did mine at 70k and it made a difference (my dealer may have done it at one of the major intervals, but I don't have a record of it being done).



    Steve

    Host

    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Note that lots of Quest owners have problems with "sticky" throttles due to dirty throttle bodies

    If it's within 36 mo/50k mi on an MPV, have it covered by warranty if you need it. On most vehicles this doesn't happen until well past 75k miles.
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    danandkatdanandkat Member Posts: 67
    If, as tboner speculated, your accelerator pedal lays 'stuck' to the floor when hitting 8000 rpms, I'd consider tying a rope to the pedal to pull it back with. I haven't looked at my MPV (it's at home and I'm not) to see how practical that is, but I think it would be better to just be able to yank back on a rope than try to feel around with your foot and get under the pedal when you suddenly find yourself at launch speed and accelerating. Toe under the accelerator sounds easy enough in theory, but it may be a different matter under potential panic conditions.

    About 25 years ago I had a car that had some moisture in the accelerator linkage, and it would stick/freeze in cold weather. I tied the rope on and fixed a handle to the rope (actually I think I still have that rope around somewhere--you want it??!!) and it was nice just to give it a quick tug when needed.

    This is serious. Keep the heat on Mazda to get this taken care of. Best of luck, and I hope this is resolved quickly for you.
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    mshelatmshelat Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    Recently I locked myself out of my 98 MPV (4WD). The tow-truck driver used his tool to open the passenger side door-lock. The key was in the ignition in the OFF position. Interestingly, although none of the electrical devices were ON the battery dies. I got a jump start from the tow-truck. Since then the Check Engine light has stayed ON. After reading the user manual, I checked and made sure that the gas lid was tight and there was gas in the tank. The third reason mentioned in the manual is electrical fault in the engine.

    I am not sure what is going on? Has anyone had this before? Also how do I try to reset the light (I know other models of Mazda have a green connector near the engine that can be used to reset the light if there is not problem with the engine). What should I expect from the dealer when I take my MPV in? Thanks!
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    bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    From a dead battery situation it sounds like the dealer needs to do a computer reset. I assume you followed the jumping the battery section in your manual.
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    docablasdocablas Member Posts: 9
    something strange happened while i was driving my mpv, trying to get out of a parking lot, i put the gear selector in drive, with visual confirmation on the speedometer, but i seemed to be stuck in neutral. brought it back to park, used a little more force towards putting it into drive and that seemed to correct it. happened again though, from reverse to drive, still with the display showing drive. anyone else have this problem?
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