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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions
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This is my first posting so please be patient
I am in Canada shopping for an '02 ES. The list price before taxes is $37,810. This includes:
$1095 freight
105 color charge
100 air. conditioning tax
I plan to take advantage of the 0.9% financing offer for 3 years. This is a better deal than the alternative $1000 cash-back offer.
I'm not the type to dicker around. I don't know what the dealer cost is, nor do I know the factory to dealer incentives.
My father - a car buying "shark" - suggested I make an offer of $32,800 - that's $5000 below list. He says this makes perfect sense because this model is looking at a year's depreciation very soon, there is way more wiggle room than the dealer lets on (especially on the ES model with the overpriced add-ons), etc...
Has anyone managed to get a deal similar to this? I plan of faxing my offer so it's all in writing. The worst the dealer can do is say "no" and counter-offer.
I couldn't find any information online that gave even a rough idea of what the dealer cost _really_ was on an MPV. I'm all for the dealers making 3-5% profit, but I don't want to be gouged either.
Thanks for any input from our smart shoppers on this board.
YMMV,
-Brian
A simpler solution would be to let your father do all the negotiations and then you show up four or five hours later and write them a check (or is it "cheque?"
RBB
(edit - apa.ca is another one)
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
subearu: Don't take the US price and convert to Canadian. You will realize the Canadian buyers get a better deal! I suspect that's why we only get a $1000 cash rebate while USA gets $2000
alexv1n: YOU RULE! Thanks for the pricing link to mpvclub.com - I just joined up there as well.
owr084: Hey I just turned 40! Don't need my dad around except for the sage advice. He managed to get a great deal on a Yukon so I'm all ears.
steve_: Yes it's carcostcanada.com but they want $50 for something that turned out to be already available on mpvclub.com.
Does anyone know what the factory-to-dealer incentives are for the Canadian '02 ES?
In mpvclub.com someone mentioned $1500US for the USA model but I think that expired a month or two ago.
Thanks again folks!
Thanks folks.
The good news is that a local windshield installer came to our house and put a new windshield and gasket in for $260. They did an excellent job and it is just like new.
I have my issues with the pen procedure, but for the most part, it really cuts down on fraudulent claims.
Our policy has a $250 deductible comprehensive. In 15 years of buying insurance, we have never had a claim. Our policy for the '02 LX is $820 per year with State Farm. I hate to think how much we have spent on insurance of many sorts in our life, it is one of those necessary evils that I hope I will never have to use. Nevertheless, I would rather have a bank account with $100k in it than the years of "security" insurance has provided.
If the incline thing isn't the problem, it could be something to do with the brake-shift interlock (the reason you need to depress the brake to shift out of park). Maybe it needs adjustment or the switch is bad?
-Brian
I hope this helps.
Good luck on your hunt.
RJ
Finally got rid of the old Corolla to get our new MPV! Had it for 3 weeks, no sulfur smell yet.
once
In both directions I hear the motor running, but when it goes to push the window up it doesn't seem to do anything. I can pull the window up with my hand (but that sorta defeats having power windows).
It sounds like I need to take this to the dealer to get fixed. Has anyone else had the problem?
Does anyone know of an aftermarket rear windshield wiper holder or ledge. I have a 2001 mpv and everytime I go through a car wash the washer strips hit the wiper blade and it sticks out until the wash is complete. I'm afraid it's going to break off. Also I remember posts about Michelin tires. What tires are recommended for the mpv? The tires that came with the van seem to slide too much. Also my driveway slants downhill so I can relate to the shifting problem. I will try the solutions mentioned. My 1988 camry used to do the same thing.
I only have 5000 plus miles on the van but absolutely love it so far.
What do you mean by 'The tires that came with the van seem to slide too much'? Are you speaking to the tires' wet handling, or cornering grip? When thinking of going w/some Michelin tires, make sure the load rating on the tire is 94 at least, because of the weight rating of the van itself. I know that some folks have tried Michelin tires, but I believe they've found them lacking in load rating (only 93V). Some options (per TireRack.com): Dunlop SP5000 (95V), Yokohama AVS db (94V), Bridgestone Potenza RE92 (94V), and the Dunlop SP Sport A2 (94H). Personally, I'd opt for the Dunlop SP Sport A2 or Yokohama AVS db tires if/when replacing, but haven't had issues w/the stock Dunlop Sport 4000s aside from disappointing wear.
sound? Second, how can it sound a false alarm?
--kcz
My previous post wasn't to dis Michelins, if anyone percieved it as that. They do make some fine tires. I've always wanted something more performance-oriented, as well as not being willing to pay the higher prices that Michelins seem to have.
But I still would like to know when the alarm is supposed to go off by design. As I said, I tried to use wrong keys to open the van, I tired to shake it and nothing happened. Would elevating the front of the van (in preparation for towing, for example) set the alarm off?
--kcz
1) Forcing open a door, the hood or the liftgate
2) Opening a door or the hood by operating an inside door-lock button or the hood release handle.
The horn sounds intermittently and the hazard warning lights and headlights flash. This continues for about three minutes before stopping. If it is set off again, the alarm will sound unitl a door/liftgate is unlocked with a key or transmitter.
So it sounds like if someone breaks a window or shakes the van violently, it would not set off the van. If someone breaks the window, and then reaches in to unlock the door, the alarm will sound. Also sounds like you could tow it, though if the van is in gear with parking brake set, that might not work too well.
Of course, hitting the panic button will set off the alarm, too. ;<)
dan
Is is something as simple as a floormat?
Or, if it really is going up to 8K RPMs then perhaps there is a computer issue. However, I do suspect there is either a throttle cable/cruise control cable issue, or perhaps the throttle return spring on the throttle body is suspect. The spring could be getting stuck and not pressing the throttle cable back.
What does the pedal do, does it stay stuck to the floor when the problem occurs? If it does, can you easily pull it back with your foot.
To me, the only thing that seems likely to intermittently stick is a spring. I suspose it is possible for a cable to have a "sticky spot" that you don't always hit. However, the throttle return spring is not a that lengthens and shortens when you press and release the throttle. It is more like a clock spring that gets wound and unwound as you manipulate the throttle. It is possible that during a full throttle condition, the spring winds on itself and perhaps binds on itself and sticks.
I suppose, in your first case, your dealer could have disconnected the cruse control cable from the throttle, without replacing any parts, to isolate what might cause the problem. I certainly would not have done simply nothing. It takes about 30 seconds to remove and tie that cable away. It takes about the same amount of time to return it to the way Mazda built the van.
So if the problem returns, I would suggest this to your dealer. They should be able to disconnect the cable from the cruise control actuator to the throttle body.
This then isolates the system to just your accelerator pedal, the throttle cable and the throttle body.
If it still happens, it is one of those three things. If not, then the problem is probably in the cruise control system.
HTH,
TB
- Change oil and filter or flush oil system
- Lubricate doors, hinges, and chassis
- Add oil system conditioner
- Perform fuel and induction service and servcie throttle body.
- Replace air filter
- Inspect brake pads and rotors
- Rotate and balance wheels
- Inspect alignment
- Replace brake fluid
- Automatic transmission service
- Install transmissinon conditioner
- Replace spark plugs or at 60,000 miles
- Install power steering conditioner
-Add oil system conditioner
-Install power steering conditioner
-Install transmission conditioner
-Perform fuel and induction service and service throttle body. what the heck for?
-Change oil and filter or flush oil system flush system? if you change your oil at least every 5k miles, that is totally bogus
Note that lots of Quest owners have problems with "sticky" throttles due to dirty throttle bodies. Some clean theirs every 15 to 30k miles. I did mine at 70k and it made a difference (my dealer may have done it at one of the major intervals, but I don't have a record of it being done).
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
If it's within 36 mo/50k mi on an MPV, have it covered by warranty if you need it. On most vehicles this doesn't happen until well past 75k miles.
About 25 years ago I had a car that had some moisture in the accelerator linkage, and it would stick/freeze in cold weather. I tied the rope on and fixed a handle to the rope (actually I think I still have that rope around somewhere--you want it??!!) and it was nice just to give it a quick tug when needed.
This is serious. Keep the heat on Mazda to get this taken care of. Best of luck, and I hope this is resolved quickly for you.
Recently I locked myself out of my 98 MPV (4WD). The tow-truck driver used his tool to open the passenger side door-lock. The key was in the ignition in the OFF position. Interestingly, although none of the electrical devices were ON the battery dies. I got a jump start from the tow-truck. Since then the Check Engine light has stayed ON. After reading the user manual, I checked and made sure that the gas lid was tight and there was gas in the tank. The third reason mentioned in the manual is electrical fault in the engine.
I am not sure what is going on? Has anyone had this before? Also how do I try to reset the light (I know other models of Mazda have a green connector near the engine that can be used to reset the light if there is not problem with the engine). What should I expect from the dealer when I take my MPV in? Thanks!