Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

daddioof4

Dang, I did a copy from Word and got those silly looking comic strip swear words. Any place you see &#8217 That is a apostrophe. Sorry!!

stever

Welcome to the world of MS "SmartQuotes". You can turn them off in Word if you want to continue to compose off-line and not have to edit (you do have 30 minutes to edit your posts, btw--look for the edit button). Or you can use a text editor like NotePad to compose off-line.

To turn off SmartQuotes in Word 97 (may be diff in Word 2000), go to Tools > AutoCorrect > AutoFormat as you Type, and click the box that says Replace as you Type, straight quotes for smart quotes.

Steve
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raam

I bought a used 2000 MPV and assumed that the rear vent and controls would work for both heater and A/C. Only got hot air from the rear vent even with A/C on, and dealer informed me that van does not have rear A/C and vent is only for heater. He didn't know how it operates with the selector on dash set to recirculate. What is the logic in circulating hot air at the rear when A/C is on?

maryholmes

If you have trouble getting out of park, you are suppose to wiggle the steering wheel back and forth a little, and then it will work fine. (This is actually in the owners manual, but I didn't see it until someone here told me about it.)

Mine does this a lot, because I just can't quite break the habit of turning the wheel a little when I get out of the car. (You were suppose to in order to lock the wheel in my old wagon, but if you do it to the MPV you jamb it, because it is already locked.)

As to hesitation between 1st and 2nd: the shift at 25mph is very noticible on mine, but not really a hesitation. I think that others have mentioned this before.

pastorgumby

looking at an original post, I too have a slight alignment pull to the left on my 2001 Lx (touring, security, 4 season).

I also was losing air preassure- wound up being a little screw stuck in the tire. I had to get it plugged (from the inside) a non-dealer job (dealer is too far for me to frequent).

javadoc

I don't remember if I posted a pic of my dirty airfilter, but I have a pic if you want one. I spoke to the service techs last week when MochaVan was in for an LOF, and they said this was normal. Let me know if you want to see my gunky filter.

--javadoc

likaglov

(1255-maryholmes) I have noticed roughness in the shifting, but this is a definite hesitation, of about 1-second. The time on the interstate was about 2-3 seconds in duration, I was low on gas but the fill-up only took 17-gallons (on an 18.5 gal tank). You said others have mentioned the hesitation on here? I couldn't find any posts, do you have any numbers?

(1250-javadoc) I did try turning off the A/C (or pressing the turbo button). It still hesitates sometimes. I am able to force it NOT to happen by being conscious of the pressure on the accelerator. My wife doesn't drive manual, and I don't think this trick comes naturally to her. She drives the van most of the time and is really unhappy with this problem. Although everything else about the van is great! Is the hesitation you're experiencing of similar duration? Does it make you nervous, or is it just a minor inconvenience? We'll be driving with the A/C on for the next 4-months here in NC :-) Should I have the dealer look into the fuel-line theory?

javadoc

What I've noticed is a hesitation of about 1/3 second, about as long as it takes you to go, "what the..." and then you're back to normal. Maybe this is totally different than what you're experiencing.

Taking the prob to the dealer may help, but you'd need to be able to almost reproduce the sympton at will. For instance, if it 75% of the time does it at a certain point, either at cruise on the freeway, or on the onramp (yikes), tell them...maybe nicely ask if the tech has ten minutes to ride with you so you can show them what's going on. That works better for me than explaining to the Service Advisor (an oxymoron...) and them telling you later, "We couldn't reproduce the symptom."

--javadoc

maryholmes

Sorry, I don't recall the numbers of earlier posts, but I'm pretty sure that no one was talking about a 2-3sec hesitation. Just that some do have a rough shift. It sure sounds like it is something to talk to the dealer about. I hope you have good luck with them.

rktd123

I have read a few posting where people have had problems with oil changes. I would like to change my own oil but I am a little worried due to these postings of filter blowouts. How tight does one tighten the oil filter? Do you have to take off the splash guard to change the filter? I plan to use either the Ford filter or I&N. Thanks for any advice.

msgjvh

Well the first semi-major problem occured. The drivers window motor has apparently given up. Of course the window is about three inches down and nothing I can do will close it without brute force on something. So Monday being a day off will be spent at the dealer. I would like to take them up on the TSB bulletins. If someone has the number for the tie rods and springs I appreiciate the numbers without searching. I measured the lean and it appears to be at the 1/2 level now. So I will go and vent. According to the sheets it will take them .9 hrs to fix and will cost $204.00. That is a $300.00 repair if they don't cover it on warranty. I am sure they will. I am still within the mileage.

dougsey

I just did my first oil change yesterday at 1000 miles. The cap type filter wrench I bought was rather cheasy and just spun around the filter when I tried to remove it. I then tried my band type wrench and the filter came right off. You have to remove 3 of the bolts that hold the plastic splash shield in place; that will let the shield hang down enough to be out of the way. The filter I used was a Mazda brand that I bought at that the dealer the same day I picked up the van. I gave it one full turn after gasket contact which required the wrench. I will probably switch to the K&N at my next change due to it's high flow characteristics others have posted about.

I used conv. Mobil 5w-30 this change as I plan to do at 3k. At 5k, I'm going to switch to Mobil 1 syn. and change it at 5k intervals.

This first oil change on the MPV was much easier than it was on my wifes 95 Tercel. It took a hammer and cold chisel to get that OEM filter to move!

Good luck!

daddioof4

No need to repost the photo of your air filter, I opened the post and saw it. My question was more toward the degree of difficulty and time it took to change it. I haven't had a chance to look under the hood yet and was thinking of doing it over the weekend. Didn't get time this weekend but may do it next. I did pickup a motorcraft oil filter at Advance Auto. The list price was $3.59 less a 1.25 rebate. So for $2.34, I got the original equipment filter.

javadoc

Changing your airfilter is easy. The airbox is located up by the firewall on the driver's side. It's hard to miss as it's the large black plastic box with the 3" hose attached. You just have to release a couple of clips on the side of the box that hold the two halves together (with fingers, no tools needed), pull apart the two halves of the air box and pull the old filter out. I usually use my Shop-Vac to suck out any sand or other debris out of the bottom of the air box, then slide the new filter down in. Make sure you have it turned the correct way, but it only goes in one way.

best of luck!

--java

superbondo

I had the springs replaced three months ago. Dealer listed on the statement the two coil springs cost about $200, and labor was around $300. They made a mistake of trying to charge me and then wavied it after I told them the van was still under warranty.

However, the lean is still there, same as before. Let me know how it works for you.

msgjvh

Apparently, after the MPV was at the dealer for the past two days, there was another vehicle more important! They were able to install the window motor but the clips that hold the window broke so they have to reorder those. They were not able to get the new tie rods installed nor the seat coverings. Supposedly, my MPV will be the one they fix on thursday. They better have it done. I am taking a slug of Boy Scouts up towards Florence, Oregon on Saturday morning! I don't want them upset with me. BTW who is it that lives up that direction?

stever

Check out the monument when you get to Florence :-)

Steve
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auerbach

I have a 1/2 inch vertical scratch on the leading edge of the passenger side sliding door. It's down low and goes through the plastic "cladding" on the door.

I bought touch-up paint (sand mica) from the dealer but am wondering what's the best way to fix the scratch to get the best results.

Any suggestions???

javadoc

Well, if you're not afraid to try something like this...here's what I do:

First, you need to have a small model paint brush (for kid's plastic airplane models), a small paint removal wire brush, and either wet/dry sandpaper (get some 200-1200grit assortment) or a sanding stone. The sanding stone and wire brush you'd have to get from a paint supply store that carries automotive supplies.

Cut the paint brush to a point (more accurate).

Take the wire brush and gently scratch the area of the scratch. This will remove dirt/oil/wax from the surface. Don't scratch up more than just around the current scrape (no more than 1/16" extra).

Then, use the paint brush to carefully fill the offending scratch. Apply as many coats as needed, waiting about an hour between coats, until the scratch is completely filled and then some.

Then, after at least 24 hours, use the sanding stone (better than the sand paper) and CAREFULLY wet sand the area until the high spot of the touch up paint is worn down and level with the factory paint. Make sure you keep the area wet at all times (lower friction, doesn't hurt the paint. Use a spray bottle or hose to do this.

If you do this right, you'd have to get right up on the scratch to even see it. I've fixed a couple large ones on MochaVan this way...takes longer but I think it's worth the effort, and shouldn't cost more than $30-$40.

--javadoc

canadianboy

Hi all, long time lurker and owner of a 2000 MPV with 12K km (7500mil). Must say I have enjoyed all the great advice and interesting topics on this forum and you all have been instrumental in helping getting my vibration at high speed fixed (Our one and only problem so far). It took over 6 months of back and forth but the service manager at Mazda was great and they ended up replacing the Yoko's with Michelins for free! even though we had over 10,000KM on the tires. Mind you, I wouldn't expect anything less and I did flag this problem way back when I filled out the survey Mazda sends to all new owners.

Anyways, I hope I can reciprocate to some of you (especially Billmckinley and Mazdad) with the following info:

RJ I have enjoyed your creative descriptions of your smelly problem and have often found myself ROTFLMHO. Hopefully this can lead you to the path of clean air. This problem was recently addressed via a letter to our local paper to our resident car 'experts'. The link to the letter is http://www.carclickbc.com/carclick/articles/070601/5064393.html but just in case it is missing or the link is broken here it is:

-------------------------------------------------------

 Rob MacGregor and Jeremy Cato

Vancouver Sun

Dear Car Guys:

I bought a new 2001 Mazda MPV in January, 2001. I ordered it with the 2.5-litre V6 engine.

The problem I have is that it smells really bad, like rotten eggs, after I have climbed a hill. There is no smell or very little when I am alone in the car. I noticed the smell at about 1,000 km.

The dealer checked the van and said there is no problem. The van is not running rich. He said it's due to sulphur in the gas and I will not have this problem once the sulphur is removed from gasoline in the future. A friend of mine tells me the catalytic converter is working too hard.

I really want to get rid of the smell; it's really obnoxious! I intend on keeping the Mazda but I certainly do not want to keep the odour. Please help!

Al

Dear Al:

Rob: Can't blame you. Who'd want to spend their days with the whiff of rotten eggs filling up the ol' nostrils.

So we did a search of recalls and technical service bulletins and found something very interesting -- that is if you get excited about late model engine management.

Jeremy: Rob, I know there is no topic more dear to your heart. Stay up late at night reading those late model engine management magazines, right? That's why you're such interesting company at dinner parties.

Anyway, the answer to Al's problem is found in Transport Canada recall number 1999138 and NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) recall no. 99V171000. And all this has to do with an intake manifold/fuel injection leak.

Rob: Now if you just read the recall notice, it's not entirely clear that this problem can lead to a rotten egg smell. That's where my interest in engine management comes in, wise guy. That's why they call me The Car Doctor.

The recall talks about a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. It can cause the oxygen sensor in the exhaust system to be fooled into thinking the engine is running lean, or with not enough gas.

Jeremy: That in turn signals the on-board computer to increase the fuel to correct for this false-lean condition. And that causes the engine to run rich, or with more fuel being injected into the engine than is actually necessary.

Rob: So what we have here is extra fuel in the exhaust being treated in the catalytic converter. Guess what? The car gets overloaded and the result is a rotten eggs smell.

j2kbarlow

Thanks for the info on the smell problem, canadianboy. I looked at NHTSA's website and the recall covers the 2000 model and only about 8600 of those produced. I have a 2001 and noticed the same problem while following my wife up an extended incline. Unfortunately, I was in my Miata with the top down - talk about being gassed - ugh!

maltb

Thanks for all the info, but my sources tell me that the recall they mentioned was a bit different. The recall involved a mismatched manifold that showed symptoms of leakage right away. Also, almost all of these were caught at the port before being released to dealers and the remainder were a few of the very first vehicles that shipped to dealers.

I do like his take on a vacuum leak causing the problem and that very well could be the case, but I'm not sure it relates to the intake manifold recall.

billmckinley

"Stinky car, Stinky car, What are they feeding you?"[apologies to Phoebe Buffay]

Mostly "The President McKinley" behaved itself on my recent road trip. And I have laid that to a change of diet on the road. Especially since, just to experiment, I filled it again at the local station I normally use. Guess what. Stinky car is back. The next step is to start using another station for fill ups to make sure it is the gas. If it turns out that it's not the gas [and if it actually begins to bother me as opposed to merely revolting those around me], I'll have something to show the Wacky Wizards at Wonderful Rohrich Automotive Group. Now if I can get somebody to explain all the big words to them. . . .

Thanks again.

RJ

drew_

I just recently got my first scratch on my M-class' driver's door. It's a hairline scratch (I can feel it with my fingernail though) about an inch long. Not particularly obvious but it's there anyway. And it wasn't even me who caused it, but my dealership after they washed it after completing a service; I didn't expect them to for sure. When I picked up the vehicle the next day, I thought, "Hmm, I didn't ask them to, but the wheels look so clean that I guess I'll let it ride this time". Since you own a Euro vehicle, you'll know all about the brake dust ;-) Alas, I noticed the scratch when I arrived home. I'll have to see what they can do about it.


Drew
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pjd58

Bummer! Run, don't walk back to your dealer. Let us know how it turns out.

Rj: Come on let's keep western PA's air clean, its hard enough with all those steel mills:) Here in Ohio, there are a couple of fuel brands that use sulfer. I use Speedway/Super America and our van smells like a rose.

billmckinley

What steel mills? They closed most of them down in the 80's. You drive along the Monongehela River now, and all you see are office parks, water parks, theme parks, and [of course] the Parkway. Which makes my predicament even worse. When The Prez starts odorificating now [required MPV content], EVERYBODY notices!

We'll see how a change of diet works over the long haul.

RJ

pjd58

where did the mills go? West Virginia? I was in Pittsburgh this past weekend, brought my nephew to Robert Morris. Did you see a Sand Mica LX near the airport? I didn't see any MPVs in Pitt. Too many Dodge Caravans in your area. Our MPV rode real well and handled the hilly sections of Western PA.

billmckinley

The mills went wherever the owners could hire a labor force at $.38 an hour--Korea, China, Bulgaria--you name it, where the only MPV's they can afford are Multi-Pony Vehicles.

Wasn't anywhere near the airport this past weekend. If I'd have seen another Sand Mica, I'd have greeted you like a long-lost brother. The reason you didn't see to many around here is that there just aren't that many--I think I've seen a total of 4 since Feb. Maybe they followed the mills?

RJ

auerbach

Thanks for the info - although I don't think I'm that adventurous to try what you have mentioned.

I will however use your tip about the paint brush - sounds like a very good idea.

javadoc

The pointed tip of the small brush will make the touch up that much smaller, which is good. I should think that the Sand Mica paint is great for concealing small blemishes anyway, so I'm sure you'll do fine. Best of luck!

--j

cutter44

I'm bringing my 2001 LX into the dealership for the 6k service next week. I'm curious for those of you who have had it done, just what is included? At my 3k mile service, I basically just got a lube, oil and filter change to the tune of about $25. I asked them if they weren't supposed to do more and they said, no, that's at the 6k service. When I made this appt., I asked what was to be done and they responded with "oil change and tire rotation...around $40". I'm going to the dealer largely because of things I've read here about quirks with the oil filter blowing out and I don't want to trust the local yokels with it. But now I'm beginning to wonder about the dealership and its capabilities. Any thoughts?

pjd58

your dealer is following the recommended maintance for the MPV. Check your owner's manual for the maintance schedule.

I recently brought in our 01 LX for it's first oil change (2600 miles). The Service Manager told me to bring back the MPV at 7500 miles for the next service( oil & filter and tire rotation). I believe it isn't nescessary to change your oil every 3000 miles, it wastes money and wastes a natural resource. If you drive under harsh conditions(extreme temps, all stop and go, dirt roads) I would change my oil more often.

If I owned a Toyota Sienna(glad I don't) I would change the oil every 2500 to 3000 miles. Sienna's have had engine failures due to excessive sludge in their engines. A Toyota design flaw, although they won't admit it. There are alot of upset owners on the Sienna problem board.

Cutter, sounds like you have a good service dept. I'm with you having the dealer change the oil, at least under warranty.

msgjvh

Yesterday I changed the oil on the MPV. While at Kragen I noticed that they had 5W20 (not synthetic) on the shelf, which was not available before. I normally run the Castrol 5W30 synthetic. I called the service dept. They actually recommended that I use 10w30 in the region. I know the book calls for 5W20. When I asked the writer why the differences he told me the 5W20 actually emits less emissions. Thus allowing the car manufacturers to pass the more stringent California test! So their recommendations are not based on what is good for your engine. It is based on what is good for them and the statistices that are compiled for the EPA!

BTW, if anyone has 16" alloy rims laying about please let me know. I have one that is out of round. I will be researching fixing this one once I get back from Oregon. But it may just be cheaper to buy one someone isn't using.

cutter44

Thanks for making me feel a little better.
It's funny, but I just dug up a service flyer from the dealer that was with a lot of my other paperwork. It mentions the 3k mi. service including topping off fluids, adjusting tire pressure, tightening clamps, checking belts and hoses, lubing hinges and latches, inspecting the air filter an adding an oil additive. it also mentions it being $35.95. The 6k mi. service includes all that plus rotating and balancing tires, checking exhaust system, brake linings, A/C system and adding fuel system cleaner. That's listed as $69.95. On the one hand, I like the thought of spending $40 vs $70., but I'd like to think they're doing what's necessary, too.

pjd58

looking at all those wrecked MPVs. The cabins of these wrecks held up well, good news for our families.

alexv1n

Have you seen other models? I took a look at Ody and Montana and there's at least one of each that burnt up almost completely...

As for the MPV. There's one van with frontal impact whose airbags did not deploy... That was the only one that sort of scared me. The rest were good enough, if I can say so :-)

westanizer

Glad to see that I am not the only one who pulled up the other vans too! If you think about it this is a good real-world resource for crash testing. The MPV once again looks much better than some of its competitors especially the Montana (aka The Orphan Maker). It still amazes me to no end that the reviewers can all rank a piece of junk like this over the MPV. My van is 7 months old now with 6k miles. So far the van has been flaw free. Not even so much as a loose screw! Oh yeah....this is a problem board right?! So, how do you get those stubborn dirt stains out of that tan carpet? ;-P

bill124

Had tie rods/rack replaced last week. Alignment also done. Clicking seems to have gone away but I am not sure if there is some very infrequent clicking.

su_a_ve

I noticed this the other day. A square cutout just about underneath where the lock for the liftgate lock is... Does everyone has this there ???? Cause on the top (ie open the liftgate and it's facing you, about 1.5" square) it seems that it is not a clean cut piece but looks like it was painted over...

Anyway, what is it there for ??? To access the lock itself ? It seems that to do that you would have to take the whole license plate panel/light kit out...

Dealer has no clue, when I called but mentioned would look at other MPVs...

BTW, this in on a 2001 LX.

su_a_ve

What's Mazda's idea of random ???

I put on a CD, press random... Song 3 plays, then song 5, then song 3 !!!! So I press random again.. Song 1 plays, song 3 plays !!!. Press random again... Song 5 plays !!!

A random option on a CD player (IMHO) has always been randomize the sequence of the song, but not repeat them.

It's so annoying it should be recalled !!!

gen64

Does any body know how can I fix oil pan for 2000 MPG? It has a small crack and oil is leaking. I went to reaper shop and mechanic suggested to use some kind special glue instead of replacement. He applied glue and it seem holding very well.

nthornton

Hi,
2 months ago I bought a 2001 MPV DX. We have really enjoyed the van however I've noticed the black plastic "trim" (roofrack strips, sideview mirrors and doorhandles) are becoming oxidized- turning a weathered white/grey colour. NOT impressed! Any ideas or experience with this?

Thanks

Nick

alexv1n

I have 2000 LX bought a year ago and haven't noticed the problem with the black plastic trim. The van has been in temperatures from -30°C to +35°C, snow, salt and very hot humid weather... Even though the LX doesn't have plastic on door handles (does the DX have?) the side mirrors and roof racks seem OK... Does washing help? (grin)

tboner1965

Are you sure you didn't get wax on them? Are they turning color uniformly, or just in spots.

It seems you would be the first to report such a problem, and there are people who've had an MPV for over 18 months now without reporting such a problem.

I've got a few wax spots on mine, but no uniform color changes.

Dunno what product to use, I think there once was a trim cleaner called "Back to Black" but I've no experience with it.

TB

maltb

You may want to try that old AC/DC tape that you have packed away in the garage...

Sorry Tony, I couldn't resist.

msgjvh

If I were you I would take it to the dealer. A crack in the oil pan can be an extremely serious matter. Even if it was caused by negligence it is not something you should just patch up. If the crack is a defect then it will be covered by the warranty. Make them prove that you caused it.

tboner1965

Wasn't that "Back in Black" just to pick nits.

Wonder what that sounds like on the MPV's sound system. (Required subject matter reference)

Oh, I've got a problem, only a CD player in our van.

maltb

well aware of the song title.

Stereo input to sound card...create MP3...convert and write to CD-R. Where's Napster when you need it?

MPV content...mine has a tape deck.

billmckinley

I had a car with a similar problem a number of years ago. Armorall makes/made a sealant/blackener that solved the problem for me. As I recall, I had to reapply it about once a year to keep the area looking its best, but it was just a matter of wiping it on--a couple minutes work.

Good luck.

RJ

dougsey

I use Turtle Wax Tire Wax. Just apply and wipe it off after 5 mins. I use it on the tires as well. Just started using this product so I cannot speak to it's longevity.