For wet performance don't confuse tires that offer better snow traction (all season) for tire that offer the best wet traction.
In Oregon the GS-D3s work really well in the wet stuff and dry stuff. You can get some feedback about all the tires you mentioned at the tirerack's website. They also have some tire test data.
I personally like high perf (summer tires) tires for spring,summer,fall and use winter tires in the winter.
I prefer living where snow tires are something you only hear about or have on your rental when you fly to a ski resort! ;-)
Jmess recommended the GS-D3s to me about a year and 10K miles ago for my SportCross. Couldn't be happier with them, especially in the wet. I'll re-up for rubber in May or June I think, and the F1 is at the top of my list, but there is a newbie I'd like to know about:
I'm considering either buying a used 2001 IS 300 or leasing a new one. Has anyone on here leased recently and if so, what is your monthly payment and how much (if anything) did you put down?
I'm thinking I SHOULD get a good deal but am sort of baffled. My local Lexus dealer wants (at least they advertise) $22-25K for a 2001 with 4X,XXX miles on it! It seems like new ones aren't going for much more than that.
I want to trade in my '97 BMW 318ti and figure I'll have to eat about $2,500 in negative equity. Getting an '01 out the door for $21K (with trade) seems like it can't happen.
How much are 01's really selling for??? I'd almost rather lease an '05 if I can get it for $400 or less with $0 down.
Go with an 02 or newer and get a better interior. Check out Edmunds used car values or Kelly blue book to see what the car you are interested in should sell for in your area. Lexus dealers are always going to mark the cars up so they can deal on the trades. You should be able to get a newer car with lower miles in the 22-25K range. I think most 01s are in the 18-20K range.
Negotiate the price of the car first. Then deal with the trade after the price has been set. It is all about knowledge (what you car is really worth as a trade and what the car you want to buy is really worth). Go to a credit union and get preapproved for a loan so you know exactly what you can afford. Also remember that you can buy some pretty nice new cars for the same price as the used 01 IS300.
There is also a leasing forum on Edmunds where you can get unbiased advice on what is a fair lease payment. Do your home work first. Do your own deal, don't let them do you.
Hi, just got a CPO White '01 with 39,000 on it here in Northern Ca. I couldnt take the abuse that my '00 3 series was giving me at only 51,000. Sheesh, about $600 a month on average in maintenance and repairs since the warrantee expired with no end in sight!!
I had never driven the IS300 and was about to buy a TL when this White one caught my eye out in front of the local Lex dealer. When I drove it, I had to have it. I never thought I could get reliability AND that great feel. I am not thrilled with the gas mileage but nothings perfect!
Anyway, my only concern is that when I am backing out from parking or starting out or turning the wheel hard near (but not) lock while barely moving or just starting out, I get a loud single noise or "click" from the front end. Is something loose? Or is this typical? At BMW they would simply say: "could not duplicate, dont bother us...go home"
My 2002 IS300's dashboard got a superficial, hairline scratch/scrape mark put on it by the guy that detailed my car at the local Lexus dealership Sat. morning. All I really wanted was the oil and filter change to be completed in a timely fashion. While I most certainly do appreciate the dealership's offer to detail my car for me at no charge, I do NOT appreciate the addition of a dashboard scratch. My interior was 100% flawless before this happened. Admittedly, I am extremely particular about my vehicles from a mechanical and cosmetic standpoint. However, this type of thing still hacks me off to no end when it happens to any of my cars while they are being serviced anywhere.
At any rate, since this scratch/scrape mark is so superficial, I was wondering if any of you guys could recommend a product that may potentially blend this mark back into the surrounding dashboard material by blackening it up again. The scratch/scrape mark on the black dashboard is light gray in color. I've tried ArmorAll already and it only helped to a degree. The region of the dashboard that was scratched is the horizontal, sort of half-round shaped piece right above the glove box door. It cannot be replaced since it is molded in with the largest piece of the dashboard. The material seems to have a bit of a rubberized feel to it. Not sure what type of material this actually is.
Thanks in advance for any product recommendations that could possibly blacken this scratched area back up for me!
Sounds like brake pads settling in the calipers. I've got it too. Apparently it's "normal" for the car. I only notice it when I shift from reverse to forward gear and apply the brakes.
So yes, something is loose, but it's likely not a detractor.
I don't know of anything that will erase the scratch from the bulnose trim plastic without leaving a trace. The problem is the fine texture that's in the piece. Almost an eggshell finish that doesn't allow for buffing out without shining horribly. That's a pisser for sure! [-(
Why do you say it can't be replaced? Everything can be replaced. It's just a matter of how much it costs. Does the dealer acknowledge that they put the scratch in there? Have you pursued asking them to replace it for you?
The reason that I say it can't be replaced is due to the fact that it is molded in with the largest component of the dashboard assembly. Can you imagine how many rattles, squeaks and additional interior damage they would introduce in an attempt to make good on their screw up? No way will I risk that. That's why I didn't even jam them up about it. The damage is done--and there's no easy solution to the problem. I'll just have to live with it for as long as I own the vehicle. Fortunately, it's not all that bad. Some folks wouldn't even care about this, but like I stated in my original post, I am extremely picky about my vehicles in every way. It sucks that certain people working in dealerships and independent garages both do this type of thing every once in a while. I mean how much extra time would it have taken the detailer to locate a clean, soft cloth to wipe off my dashboard without scratching it? Or remove their jewelry if that's what caused the scratch? Any way you turn it the situation is extremely uncool.
Thanks for the responses. If an auto interior/detailing specialist turns me on to a product/technique to blend this area back into the surrounding dashboard material I will post it here in case anyone else experiences this same sort of issue.
Hey, how's about a nice "carbon fiber" trim kit to cover it up?
Just kidding,,, ]-}
I'm pretty anal about my SportCross's appearance as well. I've got some scratching around the niche under the HVAC/Audio cluster where my sunglasses go to hide, and it bugs me no end. I actually thought about a thin layer of adhesive-backed black neoprene down there (would keep stuff from sliding out too), but I just haven't expended the energy to find the stuff to try it.
Hey thanks, the noise and feel of the brakes setting up will take a little getting used too. However, I will take it to the shop because there is also a vibration in the pedal when slowing on the freeway gently or agressively from say 65 to 55. This not the antilock-or shouldnt be! so it will all get checked out. Thanks again.
BTW, do your front doors make a big pop when you push em open hard? I am having that cheked out to!
The vibration sounds suspiciously like a mildly warped rotor (or two) to me. As a recent CPO, I'd expect them to cover it, though they may simply resurface. I don't know the lifespan on these super Toyota brakes, but I'd think the rotors should be good for a lot more than 40K. The pads may be getting thin, though, so you might see about replacing them at the same time.
Best damn brakes I've ever used, BTW.
I've never had the doors pop. That's a new one!
I'm in the East Bay. If your dealer service is any good, and you're close let me know. My local Lexus shop is competent, I guess, but I'm not feeling the love I should... [-)
Well, I'm bringing it to Marin Lexus where I bought it. Here are my gripes after a week. Maybe all of you can check in and tell me if the issue is "normal" or can/should be fixed. (I bought the car CPO with a promise that it was like new...)
1. My brakes vibrate in moderate use as described above. They are also gummy feeling and the pedal has no precision. You can move in and out with out effect about 1/2" You have to push really hard to get em going but then it feels like a rubber band as they tighten up. Totally non-linear. So it seems the brakes need work!
2. The car has a noise when it goes over bumb or dip, even moderate-a single pop from the right dash/windsheild area. of course it is hard to know exactly where the sound is sourced but it can be heard clearly at conversation volume.
3. The suspension/brakes clicks and clacks described above. When shifting reverse or forward or turning the wheels close to lock. I've never had a more clicky, clacky car!
4. Excessive cold idle. For about 30 seconds after starting idle speed is over 1500. Heck the car will coast at 15 mph! It slowly comes down. What is the correct cold idle at 50-60F?
5. The loud pop from the doors when pushed open all the way, both front doors do this. You can actually see the steel of door jamb flex!
Car eats gas but sure is fast! Anyway thanks for any help. I will let you know how Marin Lex treated me.
Sounds like you need to take that laundry list in, cpick.
The idle on start sounds normal to me, most especially if you're prone to leaving the Auto Climate Control on. Toyota's ACC leaves the compressor on continuously (which is why I rarely use the automatic mode). I believe I'm down to 700-800 within 30 seconds or so, longer if the car has been outside on fairly cold nights.
The idle and the shift-click sound mostly normal to me, but I'd still have it all checked out. The rest I think are reasonable areas for mild concern. Doors should not pop and neither should other parts of the car, and brakes should not wobble. I have noticed that the IS's brake pedal feel is a bit softer than some, but you should not be left with a feeling of insecurity!
Thanks for the input. Now maybe this will help you: Marin Lexus service today was outstanding. They got the brakes tightened up so that now they are linear and sharp. They slapped on all 4 NEW rotors and new rear pads. They obviously adjusted the front pads as well. Meanwhile, for the doors they ordered new door stops or some such. They will install next week. As for the undercarriage clicks, still have some but most are now understood to be normal. (There is still a repetitive click heard while reversing that requires work). The pop from the dash couldnt be heard on the rainy humid day. Maybe we will get that some other time and they did explian, as you did, the idle seems normal.
I am very pleased with the aggressive and complete approach they are taking to make the car right! As for the AC,
I will not be using auto mode much either! The BMW did not have AC on in auto unless you had the AC on and lit.
Office Depot, Best Buy, Staples, and more sell small pads (4x6 or so) that are "sticky" on the bottom but can be repositioned, and rubbery on top exactly to solve the problem of things sliding around. People use them to keep cell phones (or in my case a GPS sensor) from sliding off their dash. I don't know what makes them sticky, but I moved it 4 or 5 times one day and it isn't glue. Around $5. Should solve your :shades: problem. Tim
A common source of noise in the dash is around the instrument panel clear plastic cover/lens. So next time it starts making noises start pressing on the plastic around the edges of the panel. I ended up wedging some pieces of folded business card in between the dash and the panel plastic.
Another source of popping type noises that was never completely resolved by Lexus in my SportCross, was the sunroof when it was open.
I am trying to fish for a good deal for a new IS300. I know the new 2006 models are rolling out in about 6 months and hope to get a bargain. I am looking at one that's 34K MSRP. Anybody out there with a good suggestion on how much it is worth right now? 27-28K? I am looking at the E-Shift, by the way (I know...shame on me).
Figure out what invoice is then take off hold back. Check for any incentives and deduct them if they apply. You should be close to their cost at that point. Start there and see what happens. Go in a week before the end of the month and set the bait. Keep fishing until you get what you want. The last day of the month really does get some of the best deals. Once the 06 hits in October there will probably be some dealer incentives to move the 05s out.
You may also consider a certified pre-owned. I just got an 01 as described above and the dealer nicely worked out the issues to make the car pretty much like new! Combine that with a better than new CPO warrantee and the reliability anticipated in a Lex, I said why not. Got the car for at least 9000 less than new. In most vehicles I would say-go for the new one and get the best years off the top for yourself but with Acura and Lex, a pre-owned can make sense.
Because they are premium cars, they depreciate a bit hard in the first year or two. Why not let someone else take that hit?
Anyway, enjoy the ride, I am really liking mine except for the lousy mpg! I am averaging 22 in mixed driving but I was used to more from the 323ci. Still, the car is faster, a lot faster.
It looks like MSRP for a car with the options on mine is 34K. I paid 22 and change so I figure its 9000 off a negotiated price of say...31K for a loaded IS. There are much cheaper ISs used but not CPO with under 50000 miles.
Given the upcoming redesing, what is a good price for a new IS300 now?
I live in Detroit, where Lexuses seem high, because there are only 2 dealerships, owned by the same people. The one near me has a couple 2005 IS's and 3-4 brand new 2004 IS's with the sticker still on. What would be a fair price for one of the new 2004 models with a sticker around $34.5K? They have signs in them offering them for $30.5K, which I think is absolutely ridiculous. What would be a more realistic price? Would there still be any incentives on 2004s?
Like I said, I have noticed that prices for Lexuses in Detroit (new and used) seem higher than posted on here. It is a great place to buy a domestic cheap, but not a "foreign" car.
Use Edmunds used car pricing tool to price out 04 IS300s equipped like the cars you are looking at with 100 miles on the odometer and in perfect condition. That would show you what an 04 would be worth the moment you drive it off the lot. So I would negotiate from that point.
You could also price out the 04 cars and find invoice then subtract the holdback. Then subtract a $1000 from that and make an offer. Walk if they don't take it and call them up the next day or stop by to repeat your offer. The end of the month is almost here and it is a perfect time to start playing the game.
I have been using the conventional engine oil for my 2001 is300 but intend to start using the synthetic mobil 1. My car has around 70k miles on it. Does any body know of any issues related to switching to synthetic oil from the convention oil at this stage in the life of the vehicle ? ( heard it could cause engine leaking if I switch to synthetic after 50k mile on the car).
Believe me, nothing has been asked many times over on this board, at least in the last couple of years. It may not be dead, but it certainly is dormant.
I'm waiting for the IS that doesn't look like something that a SoCal "person" went wild with. The drivetrain & suspension are worthy. Perhaps the rest of the car will offer other options in the future. I gravitate toward RWD cars w/ a manual & lux features.
Been out of action for a while. Divorce finalized April 19th.
kyfdx... My now ex-wife loves her '04 bright red SportCross. So do I and the kids. Been a great car. Is interesting to see so few of them, on road or at dealers.
cellshortnow & others... In midwest Lexus dealers seem to be selling '05 ISs for about 6-7,000 off MSRP. Seeing ads for cars with $34,000 MSRPs being offered for $27-28,000. Great time to buy a great car.
Hate to admit it but I'm not enthused about the new IS. I just can't get excited about a V6. I plan on keeping my '04 IS300 5-speed manual with LSD till 100,000 miles, at least. Glad I bough the extended warranty thru Lexus at time of purchase.
Still in love with my IS. Now have about 28,000 miles. Never been in shop for anything but snow tires and routine maintenance (always synthetic oil). Every time I walk up to her I think how good she looks. Love the size and shape.
How much are dealers charging for 30,000 mile service?
good to see you're back. I'm sorry you had to split up with your wife. Even though the next IS won't be the same, we'd all love to hear your impressions if you can get your hands on one.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I had some buyer's remorse when the car was bought while some niggles were worked out by the dealer. I liked my BMW but it was just too troublesome. The IS 300drove differently in some ways from my BMW and I thought sometimes I wouldnt get over the differences. However, now I have been driving the IS hard all round the Bay Area and beyond and I have come to love the handling, ride and throttle response. It really is a kick as was the BMW but in some different ways. The throttle response is soooo much better, power is solid, the handling at legal speeds is different but I think, just as good. I love that it wont understeer.
It is nicer to drive long ways than the 323 because it is simply far more comfy with the suede seats and killer HVAC (3 series BMWs have weak AC). The stereo is great too. Bonus-an IPOD fits perfectly in the front ashtray area if you pop the ashtray out!
All in all, I would say that this 2001 I purchased CPO may be a keeper well past the three years or so I originally thought...interestingly, here in CA, the car get constant complements, no-one ever commented on the BMW??!! I guess the IS 300 is more interesting and less common.
Ron - while this is an old question, I thought I might post my solution to a similar problem. I found your question while trying to find a way to fix a scuff on my black RX330 dashboard, in practically the same place as where you described.
My Austin Lexus service consultant actually called up a local leather restorer who details their vehicles, and the guy was able to "airbrush" the scrape out. Apparently Lexus dashboards have some sort of clearcoats on them; the light gray mark indicates removal of the coating.
If you still have your IS300 and still have the scrapes, give your dealer a call and see if he can help.
Hey guys, I've decided to buy an IS300 ... now I have to decide Manual vs. E-Shift. The delima is the fun (+ the headache of Rush-hour) driving of the manual; or an option of both (+the wife can drive it too) ???
Is there a huge difference in the performance ?
Will I be dissapointed, or is e-shift option still a great (just not as much control as the manual) ?
Its a awesome car. My friend drives it at night... in the industrial area (yes you guessed it [Street racing]. He just left the engine stock and uses E-shift. He just replaced the body with bodykits for his car. Its sick. Yea he says that the E-shift is excellent, Good handling, and easy to use =P. He also quoted that the car has great acceleration and power. You were smart to buy a IS300 with E-shift !
hate to do it but gonna be putting at least 3500 miles on it aug 26 weekend =( but yay i'll be driving it hehhe so move out of my way i'm going to seattle!!!
Comments
Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3
Toyo Proxes
VS
Pirelli P-Zero Nero
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S
Continental Conti Extreme Contact
Any thoughts for the rain-prone east coast?
Thanks!
In Oregon the GS-D3s work really well in the wet stuff and dry stuff. You can get some feedback about all the tires you mentioned at the tirerack's website. They also have some tire test data.
I personally like high perf (summer tires) tires for spring,summer,fall and use winter tires in the winter.
Jmess recommended the GS-D3s to me about a year and 10K miles ago for my SportCross. Couldn't be happier with them, especially in the wet. I'll re-up for rubber in May or June I think, and the F1 is at the top of my list, but there is a newbie I'd like to know about:
Dunlop SP Sport Maxx
Anybody got the skinny on this one?
I'm considering either buying a used 2001 IS 300 or leasing a new one. Has anyone on here leased recently and if so, what is your monthly payment and how much (if anything) did you put down?
I'm thinking I SHOULD get a good deal but am sort of baffled. My local Lexus dealer wants (at least they advertise) $22-25K for a 2001 with 4X,XXX miles on it! It seems like new ones aren't going for much more than that.
I want to trade in my '97 BMW 318ti and figure I'll have to eat about $2,500 in negative equity. Getting an '01 out the door for $21K (with trade) seems like it can't happen.
How much are 01's really selling for??? I'd almost rather lease an '05 if I can get it for $400 or less with $0 down.
Thanks for listening,
Jeff
Negotiate the price of the car first. Then deal with the trade after the price has been set. It is all about knowledge (what you car is really worth as a trade and what the car you want to buy is really worth). Go to a credit union and get preapproved for a loan so you know exactly what you can afford. Also remember that you can buy some pretty nice new cars for the same price as the used 01 IS300.
There is also a leasing forum on Edmunds where you can get unbiased advice on what is a fair lease payment. Do your home work first. Do your own deal, don't let them do you.
I had never driven the IS300 and was about to buy a TL when this White one caught my eye out in front of the local Lex dealer. When I drove it, I had to have it. I never thought I could get reliability AND that great feel. I am not thrilled with the gas mileage but nothings perfect!
Anyway, my only concern is that when I am backing out from parking or starting out or turning the wheel hard near (but not) lock while barely moving or just starting out, I get a loud single noise or "click" from the front end. Is something loose? Or is this typical? At BMW they would simply say: "could not duplicate, dont bother us...go home"
Any input welcome. Thanks
At any rate, since this scratch/scrape mark is so superficial, I was wondering if any of you guys could recommend a product that may potentially blend this mark back into the surrounding dashboard material by blackening it up again. The scratch/scrape mark on the black dashboard is light gray in color. I've tried ArmorAll already and it only helped to a degree. The region of the dashboard that was scratched is the horizontal, sort of half-round shaped piece right above the glove box door. It cannot be replaced since it is molded in with the largest piece of the dashboard.
Thanks in advance for any product recommendations that could possibly blacken this scratched area back up for me!
Ron M.
So yes, something is loose, but it's likely not a detractor.
Next service, ask them to check the pads.
Thanks for the responses. If an auto interior/detailing specialist turns me on to a product/technique to blend this area back into the surrounding dashboard material I will post it here in case anyone else experiences this same sort of issue.
Ron M.
Just kidding,,,
]-}
I'm pretty anal about my SportCross's appearance as well. I've got some scratching around the niche under the HVAC/Audio cluster where my sunglasses go to hide, and it bugs me no end. I actually thought about a thin layer of adhesive-backed black neoprene down there (would keep stuff from sliding out too), but I just haven't expended the energy to find the stuff to try it.
Good luck with it.
BTW, do your front doors make a big pop when you push em open hard? I am having that cheked out to!
Best damn brakes I've ever used, BTW.
I've never had the doors pop. That's a new one!
I'm in the East Bay. If your dealer service is any good, and you're close let me know. My local Lexus shop is competent, I guess, but I'm not feeling the love I should...
[-)
Try downtown SF. You might have better luck.
1. My brakes vibrate in moderate use as described above. They are also gummy feeling and the pedal has no precision. You can move in and out with out effect about 1/2" You have to push really hard to get em going but then it feels like a rubber band as they tighten up. Totally non-linear. So it seems the brakes need work!
2. The car has a noise when it goes over bumb or dip, even moderate-a single pop from the right dash/windsheild area. of course it is hard to know exactly where the sound is sourced but it can be heard clearly at conversation volume.
3. The suspension/brakes clicks and clacks described above. When shifting reverse or forward or turning the wheels close to lock. I've never had a more clicky, clacky car!
4. Excessive cold idle. For about 30 seconds after starting idle speed is over 1500. Heck the car will coast at 15 mph! It slowly comes down. What is the correct cold idle at 50-60F?
5. The loud pop from the doors when pushed open all the way, both front doors do this. You can actually see the steel of door jamb flex!
Car eats gas but sure is fast! Anyway thanks for any help. I will let you know how Marin Lex treated me.
The idle on start sounds normal to me, most especially if you're prone to leaving the Auto Climate Control on. Toyota's ACC leaves the compressor on continuously (which is why I rarely use the automatic mode). I believe I'm down to 700-800 within 30 seconds or so, longer if the car has been outside on fairly cold nights.
The idle and the shift-click sound mostly normal to me, but I'd still have it all checked out. The rest I think are reasonable areas for mild concern. Doors should not pop and neither should other parts of the car, and brakes should not wobble. I have noticed that the IS's brake pedal feel is a bit softer than some, but you should not be left with a feeling of insecurity!
Good luck.
I am very pleased with the aggressive and complete approach they are taking to make the car right! As for the AC,
I will not be using auto mode much either! The BMW did not have AC on in auto unless you had the AC on and lit.
Office Depot, Best Buy, Staples, and more sell small pads (4x6 or so) that are "sticky" on the bottom but can be repositioned, and rubbery on top exactly to solve the problem of things sliding around. People use them to keep cell phones (or in my case a GPS sensor) from sliding off their dash. I don't know what makes them sticky, but I moved it 4 or 5 times one day and it isn't glue. Around $5. Should solve your :shades: problem. Tim
Another source of popping type noises that was never completely resolved by Lexus in my SportCross, was the sunroof when it was open.
Thanks in advance.
Has he gone to the M? Nah, it only comes with an automatic.
cpick: great news! That was good of them to cover all four corners like that.
Because they are premium cars, they depreciate a bit hard in the first year or two. Why not let someone else take that hit?
Anyway, enjoy the ride, I am really liking mine except for the lousy mpg! I am averaging 22 in mixed driving but I was used to more from the 323ci. Still, the car is faster, a lot faster.
I live in Detroit, where Lexuses seem high, because there are only 2 dealerships, owned by the same people. The one near me has a couple 2005 IS's and 3-4 brand new 2004 IS's with the sticker still on. What would be a fair price for one of the new 2004 models with a sticker around $34.5K? They have signs in them offering them for $30.5K, which I think is absolutely ridiculous. What would be a more realistic price? Would there still be any incentives on 2004s?
Like I said, I have noticed that prices for Lexuses in Detroit (new and used) seem higher than posted on here. It is a great place to buy a domestic cheap, but not a "foreign" car.
Advice?
You could also price out the 04 cars and find invoice then subtract the holdback. Then subtract a $1000 from that and make an offer. Walk if they don't take it and call them up the next day or stop by to repeat your offer. The end of the month is almost here and it is a perfect time to start playing the game.
Thanks in advance.
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Currently own '03ES.
Will the new IS have AWD option?? What other drive train updates do people anticipate??
Sorry for asking questions that have probably been asked many times over, but didn't see this recently discussed ??
I'm waiting for the IS that doesn't look like something that a SoCal "person" went wild with. The drivetrain & suspension are worthy. Perhaps the rest of the car will offer other options in the future. I gravitate toward RWD cars w/ a manual & lux features.
Time will tell.
A new IS is coming in late summer/early fall of this year. but no wagon version of the IS is coming.
- not until the mid of 07
Blecch.
kyfdx... My now ex-wife loves her '04 bright red SportCross. So do I and the kids. Been a great car. Is interesting to see so few of them, on road or at dealers.
cellshortnow & others... In midwest Lexus dealers seem to be selling '05 ISs for about 6-7,000 off MSRP. Seeing ads for cars with $34,000 MSRPs being offered for $27-28,000. Great time to buy a great car.
Hate to admit it but I'm not enthused about the new IS. I just can't get excited about a V6. I plan on keeping my '04 IS300 5-speed manual with LSD till 100,000 miles, at least. Glad I bough the extended warranty thru Lexus at time of purchase.
Still in love with my IS. Now have about 28,000 miles. Never been in shop for anything but snow tires and routine maintenance (always synthetic oil). Every time I walk up to her I think how good she looks. Love the size and shape.
How much are dealers charging for 30,000 mile service?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
It is nicer to drive long ways than the 323 because it is simply far more comfy with the suede seats and killer HVAC (3 series BMWs have weak AC). The stereo is great too. Bonus-an IPOD fits perfectly in the front ashtray area if you pop the ashtray out!
All in all, I would say that this 2001 I purchased CPO may be a keeper well past the three years or so I originally thought...interestingly, here in CA, the car get constant complements, no-one ever commented on the BMW??!! I guess the IS 300 is more interesting and less common.
My Austin Lexus service consultant actually called up a local leather restorer who details their vehicles, and the guy was able to "airbrush" the scrape out. Apparently Lexus dashboards have some sort of clearcoats on them; the light gray mark indicates removal of the coating.
If you still have your IS300 and still have the scrapes, give your dealer a call and see if he can help.
Is there a huge difference in the performance ?
Will I be dissapointed, or is e-shift option still a great (just not as much control as the manual) ?
Realistically, how many times is your wife going to drive the car?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
but yay i'll be driving it hehhe
so move out of my way i'm going to seattle!!!