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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006



  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    The color code should be listed on your VIN sticker, or can be gotten from the VIN itself. Clean the nick thoroughly, and consider using a small artist's brush instead of the one that comes with the touch up. If you're careful, you'll get acceptable results, but don't expect perfection - it is a repair.
  • If it helps anyone I got my 2001 for $12,030 with very little haggling at Pitre in Phoenix. Only options were CA emmision, mats and cargo net. 5k miles and love it. Heard some are not getting good mileage but mine gets 30 mixed 32 hwy.
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    Guys...A friend of mine created a cool website. the linke is It has a forum for every hyundai model, peformance forums, a showroom to see pictures of members cars, and anything else you can think of...You can create it and see what others have to say. or if you have a particular question...Ask away!

  • frobeyfrobey Posts: 17
    Hey all,

    I finally got through my first tank of gas and wanted to post my impressions so far. My drive to work is through some rural country with a few hills. I normally use cruise control for much of it. Before I installed the K&N the car would downshift (I have an automatic) into 2nd gear to get up many of the hills. Now it downshifts into 3rd or not at all and makes it up the hills just fine. Also, my gas mileage (mixed A/C, no A/C) has gone up from 32 mpg to 34 mpg. I want to watch this for a few more tanks and see if it stays about the same.

    I took the filter out and didn't appear that any dirt/dust was getting past the filter.

    Will post further updates in the future.

    Got a question, I'm going to be doing an oil change sometime soon. Does the Elantra use any type of crush washer that I need to pick up from the dealer?


  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    2+ weeks ago, package 2 5-speed with mats and mudguards. $11.2 and change. Basically their advertised price for the base car with dealers cost for the package 2 add ons. Was going against misleading advertised prices from other dealers and actually walked out of the dealership on two different occasions, they wouldn't budge from that price and upon careful checking found out that they were lower than the local competition. When I looked at the Edmunds pricing their stated costs matched up to the penny.
  • Forgot- that was also with mudguards. I also had the shimmy problem but a tire balance and rotation took care of that.
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    frobey, it does. The dealer should give it to you when you buy a filter from them. they did when i change the oil myself. However, the place down the road was holding a deal on a $9 oil change. So I have bringing it there cause it is cheaper then doing it myself! I guess they had no problems in getting the washer, but it does need one and it is changed everytime you do the oil
  • tb88tb88 Posts: 242
    " 5 Years -60,000 miles WARRANTY (WITH HOLES !!!)"

    "Covers repair or replacement of any component manufactured or originally installed by Hyundai that is defective in material or factory workmanship, under normal use and maintenance

    Following components covered for time and mileage limits indicated:

    Radio And Sound Systems (i.e. radio, cassette tape drive mechanism, and compact disc player): 3 years / 36,000 miles

    Paint: 3 years/ 36,000 miles

    Battery: 3 years / unlimited miles (100% covered 2 years / unlimited miles; after 2 years and within 3 years, 25% cost of battery and 100% labor cost covered)

    Air Conditioner Refrigerant Charge: 1 year / unlimited miles

    Adjustments: 1 year / 12,000 miles

    Wear Items; 1 year / 12,000 miles ( e.g. belts, brake pads & linings, clutch linings, filters, wiper lades, bulbs, fuses..."

    Imay be having second thoughts about buying A Hundi after all... Look at the holes in the warraty which can add up to a substantial amount:

    Belts $100-300
    Clutch $700-1000
    Those items are usually the ones to go first in any car...
    Most other warrabties 3-36000 cover the above items!!!
  • You may want to check other manufacturers' warranties as well...

    I have a Chrysler 300M and wear items such as brake pads and linings are not covered for any period...they are simply considered normal maintenance items.

    Warranties normally cover defects in material and workmanship of non-maintenance items ...i.e. items that should last the life of the vehicle. Batteries, belts, brake pads and linings are normally replaced as maintenance items. I believe the clutch mechanism itself is covered but the linings excluded. Your $700 - $1,000 clutch replacement cost in your post would therefore be covered by warranty.

    Generally, I believe Hyundai has the same exclusions as most other manufacturers' warranties, but of course, Hyundai offers a much longer warranty period!
  • A few more warranty comments...

    Before I purchased a 2001 Elentra GLS for my daughter, I read all the reviews on compacts I could find on the internet. On the basis of these reviews, my overwhelming choice was the Elentra.

    One of the reviews (I believe it was in Edmunds) praised the warranty as fantastic. They also went on to say that the warranty would mean nothing however, if the car wasn't reliable. Their point was that Hyundai's reliability has improved so much over the past few years that the exceptional warranty was really just a bonus and not a necessity.

    I know I wouldn't have purchased a Hyundai because of the warranty, but it was a great security blanket! Just my $.02 worth...
  • I came to this forum awhile back, with the infamous shimmy at 60-70 mph. After the dealer swapped tires it seems to be gone, but sometimes their seems to be a slight pull to the left on the highway only. My question is: Does anyone notice a pulsating pedal when slowing down quickly from 6o-70 mph ? As when rush hour traffic suddenly halts. It only pulses at that range, never at lower speeds. 2001 gls w/pkg.#4
  • jxs81jxs81 Posts: 26
    I've owned a elantra GLS for a little over a month and less than 900 miles. So far, three different problems have caused the check engin light to go on twice already. Also, the sound of first turning on the A/C is becoming louder and occationally with some loss of power. I can't help wondering how many more problems will come up in the future.

    Does anyone know what I can do? How can I qualify for a return or exchange under lemmon law? Has anyone heard of any successful story negotiating a return/exchange with the dealer?

    Any info will be much appreciated.
  • tb88tb88 Posts: 242
    Sorry to hear you're already fed up with this car...I'm myself debating wether to buy or not to buy!
    AS for:"How can I qualify for a return or exchange under lemmon law? " I think the same serious problem must have been already fixed twice and comes back a 3rd time... basically, I am afraid to say,it is not the consumer's friend law!
    Talk to the dealer... then contact and keep calling Hyundai...if nothing happens then contact/ call a TV station (you must have ONE of those "sensational stations!~"); and tell them about the "NEW and IMPROVED Hyundai" WITH THE BEST WARRANTY IN AMERICA!"
    Good luck!
  • dplatnycdplatnyc Posts: 17
    As an attorney who has handled these types of situations for clients, I recommend having your attorney call and write to the dealership. Generally, they want to avoid any kind of a shoving match--not enough markup on the cars to make it worthwhile. Also, most states' attorneys general have consumer fraud hotlines which can give you advice. The Lemon Law is a backstop when it gets really bad, but there are less onerous measures you can try.
  • ebekinsebekins Posts: 21
    Before you start thinking about lemon laws, since you've only had the car a month, have you at least tried working with the dealer's service dept.? If you don't have success with the first guy, ask for a supervisor. I think if the first thing that comes to your mind is lemon law and lawsuit, you're not going to be easily satisfied. Just take a deep breath and ask the service department again.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    I agree w. ebekins. I don't think this comes anywhere near a lemon law claim, you've just had a streak of bad luck. Work with the service manager. If you have repeating problems with the same component they should at least give you a loaner car.
  • jxs81jxs81 Posts: 26
    Thank you folks for your advice.
    I was just a little frustrated after coming back from the dealership this morning. Since not many people are experiencing as many problem as I have. It's probably just my bad luck. Or maybe I am expecting too much from a 10k car.

    Anyway, I will give the car another chance. If another similar problem comes out some time soon, I will hassle the dealer and/or hyundai.

    Thanks again, guys. This forum has been very helpful and supportive.
  • jerentjerent Posts: 8
    Thanks for your reply to my compressor belt problem. I'll probably leave the belt off and monitor the temperature. Thanks again.
  • jimarthjimarth Posts: 5
    My first post was 1170 (reading that post will help this one make sense). I met with the rep and it was a great experience. After two service managers basically said nothing could be done with the door problem, the regional rep immediately identified a striker problem and gave instructions to the service manager. I was quite optimistic after my meeting with him.

    Since then (and my last post), my problems have multiplied, and I'm demanding a refund.

    There are 5 current issues: Wheel vibration, door closing, brakes that engage by themselves on the freeway, gas mileage (along with sporadic poor performance) and rattles.

    All of the problems are intermittent (except for the doors), including the steering wheel vibration in the 60 - 70 mph range. Three unsuccessful attempts to repair. The repair attempts have focused on tire balance and run out. I have a different theory: some sort of resonance or oscillation from the suspension.

    If the tires were the culprit, the problem would be consistent and repeatable. This is not the case. I read allot of posts in the 1300 - 1400 range that describe my symptoms. If a stabilizer bar (or some other part) started vibrating or oscillating, it could produce a vibration in the steering wheel.

    Doors: Improved but still require slamming.

    Brakes: Before I outline what's happening with my Elantra, I'd like to qualify my comments: I was a driving instructor for 8 years; 50K - 60K miles per year of driving with students: 1989 Colt for 214,000 miles, and a 1994 Kia for 175,000 miles. I'm very familiar with brake issues, as part of my job was maintaining the vehicles.

    With the Elantra, the brakes had been remarkably smooth. I simply requested an adjustment to the safety interlock, since I nearly had to bottom out the brakes to take the car out of park.

    The mechanic adjusted the brakes as well (even though not requested), and the problems since, have been horrendous. Basically, the pedal height(now) always varies (i.e., how far you have to push the pedal before the calipers engage). The brakes seem to "pump-up" by themselves. This happens--spontaneously--on the freeway, up to the point that the calipers start dragging on the rotors, causing the brakes to overheat and create a serious vibration (first occurrence I seriously thought the mechanic forgot to tighten the lug nuts--it was really that bad--and I had my kids in the car). The symptoms will completely disappear, and return in 100 - 200 miles. A return visit to the dealership did not solve.

    I don't blame the mechanic--I think he uncovered a defect, most likely with the master cylinder. Just glad it surfaced now instead of at 40,000 miles when replacing pads would have caused the problem to surface.

    I read a post that describes another problem I'm having. The other post said the car "drags" or loses power. I've experienced this symptom also. I know when the brakes are dragging, this happens as a result. However, it also happens when the brakes are not acting up. I suspect it may be related to the cooling system.

    I also suspect the above problem, possibly with the cooling system, is why my gas mileage is all over the place (along with intermittent dragging brakes). Worst mileage: 18.7 with mostly freeway driving (conservative at that). Been averaging about 20 mpg overall.

    I've requested a second meeting with the regional rep, and last week sent a 6 page letter detailing the symptoms and unsuccessful repair attempts. I still have not been contacted, and have recently been stepping up the number of calls to customer service. Customer service states that the rep has the file and letter, and is "researching" the case, "something they do prior to offering an exchange or refund."

    We'll see...

    Bottom line: I like the car when not giving problems, but particularly since the service rep has not contacted me, I'm now telling everyone how horrible my experience with this car is. The Kia, on the other hand, was really trouble free right up to the time we sold it.

    As for our 2000 Accord: Wonderful! Period.

    I got a great price on my Hyundai, but I'm looking to spend considerably more for proven reliability. The savings are not worth the frequent problems, even if the warranty covers them. After 10 visits to the service department in 3 1/2 months, I'm willing to pay to avoid the experience. Have made no decision on a replacement (make, model, etc.)...

    Good luck with yours...!
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    ... but the above post is one of the major reasons we passed on the Elantra GT. Sure, some folks claim to have no problems, but I'm still very skeptical of Hyundai's reliability. Ford is another brand to avoid, based on our experiences with our ZX3. The next time we shop for a car, "reliability" is going to be at the top of our shopping list - I just don't have the time or patience to deal with incompetent service departments.
  • tb88tb88 Posts: 242
    I sympathize with people who end up with nightmares in trying to save $1,000 or 2,000 on the purchase of a vehicle. The problem is, even if you have a longer/better warranty (which is debatable, due the exclusions;) than any other make; but cannot back it up with a competent service: IT IS A WORTHLESS WARRANTY! Period!

    Bottom line: Is it worth taking a chance; and ending up with a lemon even if the odds are only 1 in 10 ? ? ?

  • tb88tb88 Posts: 242
    From the horse's mouth:

    "What Is Not Covered

    The following is not covered, unless specifically stated in Hyundai policy or coverage:

    *** Deterioration of rubber parts, upholstery and soft trim under normal use and exposure

    *** Slight irregularities not recognized as affecting quality or function of the vehicle such as slight noise or vibration."

    You get what you pay for, I guess!

    PS : In canada the "warranty" is only 3yrs-36000miles.
  • bri70bri70 Posts: 147
    All manufacturers produce lemons. This forum does not have many people complaining about their Hyundai's quality. Compare that to the Focus board.

    The majority of the complaints are about doors being difficult to close or wheel shimmies. Nothing major. That goes for all Hyundai boards on Edmunds. I think that says alot.
  • Just did the 2nd oil and filter change on our 2001 Elantra. Used the Fram PH6607 oil filter this time. Found that it was quite a bit smaller than the Hyundai filter that we had used at 3,000 mile oil change. Not a problem, just an observation.

    The Elantra, like the Subaru GL that I once owned, uses a compression washer on the oil plug. With the Subaru I found that I could get by with changing out the washer about once a year. The real test is whether you get any oil dripping afterwards. The washers aren't expensive, it's just a matter of remembering to buy them when you visit the parts counter!

  • Hi JMC,

    I also do my own oil changes also and like you noticed the difference in the size of the Fram Oil Filter compared to the Hyundai Oil Filter. Anyway, I went with Purolator L14459 which is the exact same size as the Hyundai Oil Filter. In fact they look so much alike that they could be the OEM for Hyundai's Oil Filter. I am about to do my 3rd oil change. I only changed my washer once (first oil change). Probably change it out once a year.

    As far as reliability is concerned this is the best new car I have ever owned with the exception of my 94 Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. But I expected that car to be perfect since the car was 45K in 94 (3 times amount of my 2001 Elantra). Anyway, I have 12500 miles and have not had a single problem. It hasn't been back to the dealer or anyone else for that matter. I also owned a 95 Elantra and had only 2 problems with that car in 75K miles. That was bad O2 sensor and broken AC/Air plastic vent. Both replaced under warranty. That car was so good that my sister and her husbad (they were really was skeptical of Hyundais) bought that car from me.

    Its too bad that other owners are having problems with their 01 Elantras.

  • What constitutes a "MAJOR" problem with you? Have you ever had the infamous shimmy described in previous posts? Please note that the majority of the owners with new 2001 Elantra's are starting to find that this shimmy came on a new car, and after numerous attempts to fix it, it has shaken consumer confidence. I still notice a slight pull to the left and pulsating brakes at highway speed. Should I take this car back to the dealer, where they have had it a total of 2 weeks to bandaid the shimmy? This car barely has 3,000 miles on it. Hope I don't get the door problem. Stay in this forum because the shimmy is getting notorious, and we're not happy. So if your lucky enough to get the 2001 Elantra without the shimmy, good for you!
  • tb88tb88 Posts: 242
    >>...the door problem...<<
    I read somewhere else where a tech suggested to try to shut the door with the window cracked open...if the problem persists, then you have a problem, if not it is due to the tight seal-(because in previous models they had wind noise problem, so they made it seal tight).
    Just thought I will pass it on...
    NOT an owner yet...I am still undecided wether to buy or not to buy... or maybe wait for the 2002 to see if they fix some of the problems!

  • I'm sorry to see that some Elantra owners are having problems with their cars, and I hope that each of you can get your problems resolved satisfactorily. I know it can be a frustrating experience!

    I don't believe these problems are widespread. Only a very small percentage of owners post on boards like Edmunds -- maybe 200 different people in this forum since the 2001 Elantra was put on the market out of close to 50,000 purchasers of this model in the U.S. Many of those that do post are people that are experiencing problems with their vehicles. I like to think the other 49,800 are out enjoying their drive!

    Check any of the other forums -- many of those posting are people having problems with their cars. People who have these problems are drawn to forums to seek solutions and sometimes just to vent. But the great majority of buyers just enjoy their cars and never look at or post in a forum like this.

    My point is that every model has some bad product out there, but the vast majority are without major defects. Hyundai's overall reliability cannot be determined by a few postings in Edmunds...
  • I have posted about pricing over the past few weeks and discussed the pricing discrepancy from west (lower) to east (higher). Many of you were amazed that I could purchase a new 2001 Elantra GLS automatic @ $10,988 (MRSP $14,032). Well, I found out this morning that I left $1,000 on the table! My dealer is now selling all remaining (with MRSP $14,032) at $9,988!

    It must be close to crunch time...even back east there must be some great deals out there!
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