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Comments
Honda did issue a TSB (#04-024, dated 5/4/2004) regarding the idle vibration. It affected 2003 and early 2004 models.
I had the engine/radiator mounts replaced last August on my 2003 Accord EX and the vibration is noticeably less than it was, but some vibration still exists--especially on cold (<20F) mornings. I, too, noticed that a Civic has NO vibration under identical conditions. Maybe I will get the V6 next time. Good luck.
Anybody else seen the same issue with their 05 ? Anybody had warranty work done by their dealer to replace the motor & radiator mounts on their 05 ? My problem is not "severe" as yet - but it is noticable, and I am a little concerned about what will happen down the road when the car has 36001 miles on it (right now I just have 1K).
And of course I am a little sensitive to this issue because I had to fix the motor mounts and replace a cracked radiator on my old Camry ($$)- and just a few weeks after I did this, it got totalled when I was hit by a careless driver, so of course I ended up eating the repair costs...
Sunil
Sunil
Feels like my 2005 Accord EX-L Sedan is floating all over the road, but when I take my hands off the wheel, the car does maintain a straight line.
Not nearly as crisp and good road feel as the 2002 LX coupe I traded in.
I've checked the air pressure in the tires, and all are fine.
Anyone else experience this phenomena??
If so, then it's necessary to remove the spare tire to check/retain tire pressure (60 pounds, I think).
If the spare is stored with its valve stem under the tire, it's almost a sure thing that the spare won't be checked when the car is serviced or by the owner, either.
Am I nuts, or is Honda?........Richard
Happened to me while trying to avoid an accident in front of me on the road....10 years of driving a stick conditioned me to grab for the gear shift and move it up.
There was a "whining" noise then car came to a stop.
Any guesses on how much damage I may have done?
Though the car seems to drive fine, I now hear a "click" noise going from park to drive...and kind of rough shifting in reverse.
Thanks.
Didn't anyone ever tell you only rental cars can handle that?? Seriously, I would have the transmission checked out ASAP. Also if you were able to go from D to R you may have broken the mechanism designed to prevent that without using the shift button. Good Luck.
PS - Did you hurt your left ankle going for the clutch as well?
All my problems started with the rear passenger side brakes squeaking at about 25,000 miles. Back then they found "nothing" wrong.
Scott
I saw elsewhere that you've already found that the Camry/ES330 has it's own problems so why not give aftermarket rotors and pads a try?
It's mounted upside down so you can utilize the space inside of the wheel for additional storage.
Pulling it out on those rare times you would check the pressure shouldn't be THAT big of a deal, is it?
The Accord's truck is large enough--I think easy spare tire pressure checking/filling is preferable to a small amount of added space. Just my opinion.........Richard
It will be harder w/out removing the spare time to check/inflate it.
First, virtually all OEM rotors are plated prior to finish machining, otherwise they would be completely rusty by the time the car reached the dealer.
Second, the only aftermarket rotors that are going to be superior to the OEM product are going to cost 2-3x as much. The typical store brand (Pep Boys, etc.) rotor is inferior to the OEM product which is why it's so much cheaper.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
original message by [aparnet2]
Two types of sound when I step on the gas padel after stopping at a traffic light or a stop sign ( a complete stop). Behind the normal sound of the engine, I can hear a high-pitched soft sound. As I push down the gas padel, the sound becomes even higher-piched with the increase of the speed. After the car reaches the designated speed,say 30 or 40 m/hr and I release the padel, the frequency of the sound then decreases with the action of releasing the padel. Finally, the sound then gradually dissappear (probably it is still there, I could not hear it any more becuase the other sound of the engine, which I call a normal one, is loud enough.) If I keep driving at a constant speed and step on the gas padel for acceleration, I could not hear the high-pitch sound.
Interesting, though, whereas we have no complaint about our Civic (34 mpg with 4 adults and luggage to Hearst Castle from San Diego), I read a lot of complaints about the Accord on the Accord Owners Forum. Should I rethink trading my Civic for an Accord?
Andy
The Accord will be all-new for the 2008 year and you don't know whether you'll like it or not. Best to wait until bugs removed and buy any car in its second year anyway. All complaints notwithstanding, the new Accord is still one of the most trouble-free cars according to Consumer Reports which is a reliable source for car info.
Enjoy your Civic.....Richard
I'm sure a lot of shops don't bother checking them especially when they have to unload a messy trunk and haul the thing out.
I see our guys in the shop doing this all of the time but I'll bet there are a lot of people running around with flat spares!
If you've got a road-speed dependent noise, then you'd have to look at tires, brakes, bearings, or drive shafts - all things which are road-speed dependent.
Any chance that your dealer rotated your tires and that's the difference you're hearing?
If you get the EX-L (with leather), you also get 8-way power driver's seat (both front seats heated), XM radio, auto climate control with dual settings, and more.
Engines and suspensions are the same (the DX doesn't have a rear stabilizer bar--the LX and EX do).
All 2005 Accords have front, side, and curtain airbags, and ABS......Richard
On the other hand, the EX's power driver's seat will make a BIG difference - it's infinitely adjustable and has a tilt feature. The LX's manual seat has only a limited number of positions, doesn't move back as far as the power seat, and has no tilt.
When I bought the LX, I didn't think steering wheel audio controls were a big deal (never had them before) but it's a feature I use all the time on my LX-V6 and like a lot. For about $40, you can add the audio controls to an LX (details are posted on a different Accord web site). However, the cheap-looking radio head unit in the LX may need to be upgraded to the in-dash 6 disk CD changer ($185 on E-bay) in order for the remote audio controls to work - I'm not sure.
The EX also has a security system that's missing from the LX. As well, with the LX you're kind of stuck with the OEM wheels and tires - you wouldn't put upgraded tires on 15-inch rims and you wouldn't buy 15-inch alloys to match the tires, right? Thus, for an upgrade, you'd have to buy both 16-inch wheels and tires, no?
If budget and value are your top priorities, the LX would be a great car. If you're going to upgrade, have you considered the LX-V6? The V-6 engine makes a night and day difference in the Accord. I'm VERY glad I took the hit and made the switch.
For the driver/owner, the LX's manual seat and lack of remote audio controls is a big step down. Also, the cheap-looking monochrome LCD radio display isn't nearly as nice as the LED display on the CD changer head unit. I like having a security system and a fully-lined trunk - more things missing on the LX.
The ONE thing I liked better about the LX, and this is trivial, is that I never once felt the ABS self-check in 1,754 miles.
To me, the 4-cylinder Accord feels like a larger, nicer Civic. In contrast, the V6 Accord feels to me like a less-expensive, decontented TL. Take your pick.
The first time I refueld I got about 20 MPG...which was kinda a bummer because that is what my 2000 Ford Mustang GT V-8 got. Seems like I'm getting just about that now this time around however I have not filled up yet.
I do understand that you don't get great gas mileage right off as the car has to break in...but does anyone have any insight into about how many miles that is? I've been driving conservatively, using cruise control, etc. About 80% freeway and 20% city streets.
One of the primary reasons I got this vehicle was because of gas mileage.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
My situation wasn't as bad as yours because I was trading in a '05 with only 1,750 miles while the calendar was still 2004. You're trading in a '04 model in year 2005 meaning you've got way more depreciation than I did. Also, my trade-in was worked out with my original dealer so they didn't feel the need to beat me up on both the trade and the second new car. By my figures they gave me the LX-V6 at only $10 profit (invoice + destination - holdback). On my traded-in LX, they'll make, what, a grand maybe?
Going from an '04 Civic EX sedan(?) to an '05 Accord 4-cylinder would be a tuff sell for me. Personally, I'm not sure that the I4 Accord is that much nicer to justify the large expense. An '05 LX-V6, that I might go for and, in fact, that's what I did.
No offense but I'm cautious about using absolutes and try never to say "never".
I guess I'll have to reread the manual and see what else I missed as applicable to the break-in period.
Any other good pieces of advice?
Probably not a big deal in a liquid-cooled engine that doesn't have any break-in procedure specified by the manufacturer.
Also oil was changed at 1000 miles to get rid of particles that wore during the initial break-in. A special, thin oil was used to help the rings seat better.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Try without cruise control the next time you measure it.
My 89LXi only gives me ~28MPG at 65-70 mph.
V & H are speed ratings. H is good up to 130 mph. V, 130 +.
I added Goodyear's Triple tread. More aggressive tread then the Comfort tread.
The tire rides a little stiffer then the Comfort tread, The handling of the Triple tread is far better. On wet roads with traction control on, unreal how well they work.
I work for Goodyear and have had the chance to drive the tires under different
driving conditions. My opinion only. No, I do not test tires. Yes, I have to pay for them.
Later
Various engine and transmission technologies have been developed to achieve both, given that compromises are inherent to most if not all designs.
Honda, paradigmed to high-speed Formula racing - seems to have evolved a handling, driver ergonomics and high-speed bias towards its cars, treating car amenities and city driving preferences with relatively less importance.
Honda's concessions to local, city driving where torque is more useful have been its VTEC and to a lesser degree, 5-speed automatic transmission.
Common to it, Toyota and other carmakers, computer intelligence is exploited to orchestrate the engine and transmission for all-around performance.
Toyota, while having racing involvement, seems to have adhered closer to the "customer is king" adage. The torque of its 4 and 6 cylinder motors is higher than the Honda's. Additionally, Toyota engines' peak torque is attained at lower RPM - meaning, it takes less gas pedal pressure and noise to accelerate.
Didn't mean this to be some kind of dissertation, but as perhaps with others on this board, these are somewhat fascinating trivia.
Conclusion ? The Camry is probably more satisfying to drive in the city, but test drive both to decide.
There's lots of information for you there and it would be the best place to ask any questions you still have after reading through it.
Good luck!
http://www.smartrisk.ca/ContentDirector.aspx?tp=742&dd=11