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As for Advance Auto their website shows 3 choices for my 98 Accord ranging in price from $55-$75 including installation and a free charging system check.
As an aside, my Honda dealer did a free Charging and System check on both my vehicles recently and recommended new batteries for both at $89 plus installation. I typically use the dealer for all my service as they are generally fair with their pricing. I declined and both cars are doing just fine.
Well, since yours only lasted 2 years and mine was still going strong after 5 years, I would say that mine was at least 2.5 times better. See how good I am at math!
It seems obvious that this conversation is going to end up going the way of the oil change discussions so let's just agree to disagree and move on before things ... again ... get out of hand.
Thanks.
Eh, gee?
My NTW (now NTB) battery is giving my 89LXi 6+ yrs and counting. And it cost less than 70 bucks (installation & charging test & tax included).
A few extra seconds are expected to start a car when the temperature is in a low single digit.
MPG during each fill-up.
25.8 (started recording at 500 miles)
26.0
22.6
24.1
23.2
24.6
20.8 (after going to dealer about fuel problem)
18.8 (fuel light on at 250 miles, ran out of gas at 310 miles)
Is there something wrong with my car? The dealer claimed to find no problems on the computer and fuel system. American Honda recommends going to several other dealers for resolution.
What are other people's experiences? Can anyone recommend a solution.
Thanks.
Sure, your battery may be one of the hi-tech ones that has been coddled like Paris Hilton for its entire life, but my battery came from the mean streets of Advance Auto where a young battery quickly learns you gotta be tough to survive.
So sorry Pat. I couldn't resist it.
If you were consistantly getting 25-26 I would say that it is low but is still within a reasonable range. But to run out of gas at 310 miles is strange. My 2003 Accord EX-L is sitting out side right now with the low fuel light on but also 422 miles since the last fill-up.
Do as Honda says and take it to 2 or 3 other dealers. See if Honda will open up a file on your situation, so that you can have some documentation that when these problems were made known to them.
My 2003 Sequoia got 17.5mpg last weekend travelling 75mph with the heat running. The 5300 pound, V8 powered SUV should not be getting only 1.3 mpg less than the 3300 pound, I4, Accord.
You have a problem. Keep us informed.
Worst mileage after break in was 22 MPG on vacation in Orlando, FL, almost all city driving and lots of full on acceleration. Best mileage is 38 MPG on the drive back home from that vacation (Got 35 MPG on the drive to that vacation), all with AC on. Cruise control, moderate acceleration, and following the speed limit can net you a high MPG.
I had averaged 30-33 MPG on another vacation, but that drive was mostly at 75-100 MPH.
Still, might not be a bad idea to get multiple dealerships to look into it. Your numbers show that your mileage is going down.
There's a lot more to a car than the mileage on the clock. Have it checked over first to get a few ideas on the "true" age of the car.
Years ago I read a post from a guy who claimed to be the maintenance supervisor for the vehicle fleet at a strip mining operation – the kind with huge earthmoving equipment. Rather than continually (and frequently in such a dusty environment) replacing paper air filters, some genius at his company decided to give K&N-style air filters a try as a way to save money across their fleet.
Given the enormous cost of so many huge diesel engines, the company performed a used oil analysis on each engine at every oil change and tracked the results. After the switch to K&N filters, the UOA’s all showed a big spike in particulates and silica content - far more sand and dirt was getting into the engines than before. The mining company quickly abandoned the oiled-gauze filters, wrote-off their high cost and went back to the pleated-paper air filters they’d been using.
Granted, this guy could have been writing a detailed hoax. He could have worked for a maker of traditional air filters. Heck, I could be making this story up. Still, if it were me, I’d want to see some reliable data showing that K&N filters actually filter at least as well as most traditional pleated-paper air filters. I don’t care about some claimed fractional gain in horsepower or fuel mileage – I’m talking about air filtration alone. If the filtration isn’t any good, is it worth any small gain?
Also, have you actually tried washing, drying and re-oiling a K&N filter with the special, sticky K&N oil? I was a sucker once myself and I’ve used disposable pleated-paper air filters ever since.
What you will basically gain is less frequent air filter changes. Simple cleaning and re-oiling is exactly that. Simple. I use a Cone style on my CAI and have two. I clean and re-oil one after putting the other on rotating them every 15k miles. Perhaps overkill, but it's easy to do. I've had a K&N Open element on my 1983 Hurst Olds since the first week I owned it. Over 250k miles and going strong still
The city test is 11 miles long and is a stop and go trip with an average speed of about 20mph. The trip lasts 31 minutes and has 23 stops. About 18 percent of the time is spent idling (as in waiting for traffic lights). A short freeway driving segment is included in the test. The engine is initially started after being parked overnight.
The highway is a 10 mile trip with an average speed of 48 mph. The vehicle is started "hot" and there is very little idling and no stops
In addition, a vehicle's mileage is derived from measurements of the vehicle's emission output not by measuring the actual fuel consumed by the vehicle. This is likely why the Hybrid Accords and others with low emission outputs are having issues getting the claimed mpgs.
Now compare that with your driving and you'll likely see why your mpgs are low. I don't drive below 65mph on the highway...more like 70-75mph and in the city, our area of town...mostly 45mph roads that I drive 45-50mph on.
The engine cut out one day, so I pulled over and opened the hood to see if anything was wrong. As I was looking under the hood, I could sense the car was being lifted. I looked in back and saw a guy raising the car up with a jack.
I asked him what he was doing, and he said, "Hey, you steal his battery and I will get his wheels."
Are you talking about "lifter" noice from the valve lifters?
This is very uncommon in a V-6 Accord unless whoever owned the car rarely changed their oil.
If it's priced below market there is a reason for this. I wouldn't buy it.
Also Toyo tires are a good bet on our two Toyotas
How can they bend struts by towing?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks!
Rich
I am looking for something with similar functionality.
Please post if you have done something like this.
Your experience (likes/don't likes)
If you have pictures, please include them.
Thanks
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/logjam/snhond3navinst.html
HELP
Mine has 53k on my EX and dealer wants to replace brakes all around.
Front 1 - 1.5 mm
Rear 1 mm
When is the right time to replace? I thought the rear brakes last much longer.
If you're carrying heavy loads on long, steep hills or require blazingly fast acceleration, the V6 is best, of course.
But drive both and you might conclude as I did that the 4 is a better choice because it costs less, is slightly more economical, is about 174 pounds lighter on the front end and might handle better, and has a permanent timing chain instead of a timing belt that must be replaced.
Note, however, that he EX V6 has a power passenger seat and home-link for your garage door opener, and maybe another feature or two as well......Richard
my brother had changed my spark plugs and
wires, and i don't think he put the wires in
the right order on the distrubutor cap.
now the car is misfireing and back firing.
may you please send or give me the diagram
or firing order on the cap.
Thank you
This is a 4cyl V-TECH motor
May you please e-mail me at LEGZECUTIVE@AOL.COM
Is there a way to see the avg. MPG with the 2005 EX V6 without the NAVI.
Thanks
I now have 800 miles my car and and noticed that when I take my foot off the accelerator the car slows down quickly. This happend since day one but I thought that it had to go through the 600 mile breakin period.
I didn't notice this when I was test driving and didn't have this problem with my old honda.
Has anyone experience this problem and is there anything that can be done about it.
The Accord auto also behaves like a manual in that on an incline, one can "feather" the accelerator as if slipping a clutch.
The current Accord tranny seems to have sophisticated features that're not played up too much, except for the Grade Logic Control which I'm convinced causes the prominent deceleration trait.
Save for its less than stellar reliability, the Accord automatic is probably one of the best in its price class today.
It talks about the grade logic control and downshifting for added engine breaking.