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They sit between the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem. They are small inserts that act sort of as a spring to keep tension between the arm and the stem. Oil pressure (hydraulic) serves to expand the lifter when the valve is closed so that the next time the rocker goes to push down on the valve, you don't get a tapping noise or physical damage by slapping 2 pieces of metal together. Think of it as an egg toss competition. When the egg starts to meet your hands, you drop your hands to soften the blow. The lifter is your hands, and the valve stem is the egg.
There is no adjustment to hydraulic lifters. Checking the clearance is just that ... checking it. If it is out of spec, it means the lifters or stems need replacing, not adjusting.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
truer words were never spoken!
dennis
I wasn't saying what the Honda had (since i've never disassembled it). Just explaining what hydraulic lifters are, since some folks seemed confused.
By the way, what is on the cam doesn't always matter. You can have both hydraulic lifters and roller rockers. The roller is at the cam and the lifter is at the valve stem (as is the case in the mazda i'm referring to).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Duh. I think we all know that. I never said anything about a car being a non-depreciating asset FinanceBoy.
My point was an Accord will perform fantastic for 4 years, cost you a minimal amount of money to maintain, and then you can sell it for a great price and do it all over again with a new Accord.
Or you can hang on to it forever and have a paid for car that is still tight, safe, and economical.
Honda's proven formula that people latch on to.
As to the Rear end treatment, I prefer the newer LED look. Its classier and I put the tail light lenses from the Hybrid on my 2007 V-6 SE model and its very BMW look-ish!!!
How did you do the swap - did the dealer give you credit for the lenses you turned in, or did you just buy the hybrid lenses, and if so how much were the lenses?
Thanks.
The more info the better, when dealing with 200 channels.
thanks.
I have the navigation unit so I'm not sure how the other radio looks but I'm sure this info is there too.
I keep it on artist. When the song changes, it does show briefly the song title, before switching back to artist.
Would be nice to have more lines, but it is still nicer than dealing with a portable unit.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Has anyone had a similar experience? I'll keep an eye on it but I was just wondering if it's a sign of a bigger problem
ahead.
Can I ask the dealer to have an LX or SE V6 with leather seats? I remember my friend's 05 accord has leather seats but that's not an EX. Thanks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
1.) An EX-L 4-cylinder or EX-V6 model (EX-L is nearly equal to EX-V6 in terms of interior, just without the V6 engine)
or
2.) Aftermarket add-ons
With EX and Leather package (a.k.a. EX-L or EX-V6) you also add Dual Climate Control, heated seats, 8-way power driver's seat, premium interior trim, more lighted controls, XM Radio. I'd guess adding leather to an LX-V6 model would put you right into the price range of an EX-V6.
1. the 1993 Accord EX (5 spd) was the best handling and fun to drive. Suspension and steering were great.
2.) The 2002 Coupe EX 6 cylinder was OK but no manual was available at that time.
3.) The 2003 Sedan EX -L 6 cylinder w/ auto I hated. Suspension sucked. Unsafe at any speed. Needed 17" tires and other upgrades I did not want to mess with.
4.) 2004 Sedan EX-L 4 cylinder 5 spd entirely built in Japan was GREAT. Only problem was drift to right. This was corrected simply by getting rid of the stock Michelins and replacing with Bridgestone LS-V. I put over 100,000 miles on the car in less than 2 years. No problems. Still would have like 17" rims and lowered springs (Because of side wind drafts)
5.) Just bought 2007 Sedan EX-L 6 cyliner with 6 spd. Great improvements, all requests were answered, i.e. manual trans with 6 cylinder in Sedan; illuminated steering wheel controls; heated mirrors and 17" wheels etc. Will replace stock michelins as they are lame. Spoke with Factory Rep today and he stated that Honda may make available in "the future" the suspension upgrade on the sedan that is now available on the coupe. GREAT! However, I am thinking of some H&R Springs that lower the car by less than an inch, a front tower strut brace,(Better than the stock version and similar to the one on the coupe) a little stffer shock and perhaps a little larger front and rear sway bars. BUT, at the least, the H&R Spings. By the way the add on suspension kit for the coupe from Honda only lowers the car 1", why you ask? Because anything 1" and less and you do not have to mess with the alignment, i.e. caster and camber kits.
That all said and done, I use only Royal Purple Synthetic Oil. I change filter at 3,000 miles and top off oil. At next 3,000 miles I change oil and filter. Therefore new filter every 3K and new oil and filter every 6k. No problems. Tailpipe clean, no carbon. I used only Puralator Pure One top of line filters.Change the air filters, run some good injector cleaner about every 5K and have injectors shop cleaned every 45K. I changed the trans oil every 40K. I also boosted the air pressure an additional 2 psi in front tires and 2 psi in rear. Same psi ratio front to back but stiffens the sidewalls of the stock Michelins. As far as gas I run a 50/50 mix of regular and premium. This gives you a better Octane than 89 Mid Grade (About 90; given 87 and 93 equal 180 divided by 2 equals 90) and for less per gallon cost of midgrade gas. (Do the math) I fill up every half tank and alternate between Premium and regular thus maintaing 90 octane. I feel that the performance is better.
Hope this helps.
Also, 3,000 miles oil changes are a very frivolous expense. These engines are made to go into the 100s of thousands of miles with regular oil at a minimum mileage of 5,000 between changes. If you have extra money lying around, more power to you, but I think I'd donate it to my favorite charity before putting synthetic oil in my car every 3,000 miles.
Honda engineers know better than I, and recommend 87 octane for the Accord. Over and above is just extra money for Uncle Chevron.
Check out the Honda website (which I linked earlier) for more info. It'll give you all the fun details.
Be aware, top of the line EX-V6 Accords can now be had (w/o Navigation) for $25,000 or slightly less. You should be able to get any Accord under invoice.
Now back to Accord, is it real that I can get any Accord under invoice? $500-1k less is possible?
At the moment, there is a current factory-to-dealer $750 incentive on them. It is a rebate that the dealer can choose to pass on to the customer. Check out the Prices Paid forum for Accords, you'll see most people paying under invoice for their Accords. I recently read about an EX-V6 for $24,200 +TTL, but I dont know how common that is.
Here is the most recent post from there:
#13883 of 13883 2007 EX-L V6 Automatic w/o Navi by stevewave Feb 02, 2007 (8:48 am)
I was originally going to buy an EX-L 4 Cyl, but ended up with a V6, automatic without navigation. I purchased it in Lincoln Nebraska for $24,300. This price includes all fees, splash guards, paint sealant, etc. The V6 is a much nicer vehicle, you get the nicer wheels, outside temp gauge...etc. Anyone else looked at this same vehicle? What are the prices you are seeing?
Thanks!
Steve
Check it out and let me know what you find.
I'll just change the oil when the minder gets down to maybe 30 or 40%. I'm at 5500 miles now and the minder is at 40%. I'll try to get it changed for the first time very soon.
For 5quarts x $2.00 = $10.00 ---- Why bother???
If you are going to be obsessive, go all the way, change oil and filter every 3,000 miles.
What gives with HONDA, I'm ready to unload it with less than 20k miles on it
thanks
ed