Older Honda Accords

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Comments

  • fairshadowfairshadow Member Posts: 24
    Hi, i went to buy car, I was told that you must get draft from bank where I got approval for loan,within few days, else you would be in their loan terms which means pay according to their lenders which would be very high. I dont understand this. Normally how much time do people get to get draft from bank and give to this dealers. I told them I can pay deposit or 10-20 percent downpayment, but getting draft from bank might take time depending on how they operate, they might fax approval to them if they want. Worst case I wont pick from them until I get draft. Not sure how transaction work. can anybody explain me this.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    The prices paid section is probably a better place to take this, but I just got a pre approved blank check from my credit union. I filled out the amount and that was it.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    The banks can overnight the draft to you if needed. So you're looking at 2 or 3 days tops from the time of approval. You might wanna confirm with the dealership if they'd accept your particular bank's loan. For instance, the Honda dealership where I bought actually doesn't take CapitalOne's check.
  • boli74boli74 Member Posts: 3
    I compared the specs of the LX and the EX, and found that EX has the security system and 4 wheel disc brakes, while LX doesn't. Other differences are pretty minor. Could anybody please tell me what this "security system" and "4 wheel disc brakes" are for?

    I am considering choosing from a 2007 Camry LE and a 2007 Accord, but don't know which trimline of Accord is at about the same level of Camry LE. Would appreciate if you could shed some light on it.

    Thanks.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    LX vs EX

    I think that 16" alloy wheels vs 15" wheels with hubcaps is more than minor. As is the CD changer. Certainly the moonroof is major, right?

    If you park outside, you may appreciate the EX's heated side mirrors (I've only used mine once). For me the rest are pretty minor.

    Most folks like having disc brakes on all 4 wheels. As for the security system, it provides some peace of mind that your car will make some noise if someone tries to break in.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    What tallman said. Get the EX.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I am considering choosing from a 2007 Camry LE and a 2007 Accord, but don't know which trimline of Accord is at about the same level of Camry LE. Would appreciate if you could shed some light on it.

    Accord LX is more or less similar to a Camry LE.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    The SE gives you most of the EX without the sunroof. I prefer no sunroof, so it worked for me.

    SE does not have the heated mirrors though or the interior ambiance lighting. It also has a simpler security system.

    Once nice advantage of the EX is the lumbar support - not sure why this isn't on all models.
  • cb2kcb2k Member Posts: 22
    I apologize for this being wordy.

    I am hearing two distinct sounds upon acceleration - one is a heavier note which I attribute to be the sound of engine, and at the same time a comparatively higher pitched "whine" (which may or may not be coming from the engine, I am not sure). Two different notes, though neither is obnoxious.

    The whine seems to build and drop with the transmission shift points, much like the rpms do. I have noticed it up to 40 mph. It is loud enough to be noticeable when on smooth roads with the windows rolled up and the air conditioning fan and radio etc off, but is overcome when the air-conditioning fan is on, when accelerating on roads that induce more tire noise or during certain conversations etc.

    By comparison the "heavier" (as compared to the whine) note of the engine is louder than the whine, can be heard amongst other sounds that drown out the whine and is heard past 40 mph (however, this engine note is no louder than a v6 2007 mazda 6 that I test drove and quieter than the i4 2007 mazda 6 that I also test drove).

    Having heard many raves about how smooth the 4 cylinder accords are, I am really wondering if "smooth" equates to "real quiet" or are the sounds described above par for the course on a 2006-2007 4 cylinder automatic accord and not "real issues" specific to my car that I need to be concerned about. :confuse:

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.

    Thanks for reading, and thanks again in advance for any responses!
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I also hear the "whine" in my 04 I4 EX-L. I'm not sure where the noise is coming from, but suspect it may be the metal timing chain. My 04 also has a slight "drone" to it. It's a heavier-lower pitch noise.

    I've seen other complaints on the current Accord for not being as quiet as one would expect. Although my 04 has almost no vibration to it, I wish the sound insulation was better.

    Mrbill
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    One of the things I was really impressed when I first got my 06 4-cy manual was how quiet it was. I personally equate quietness to smoothness. But again, quietness is not entirely objective, due to people's varied hearing perceptions and past experiences. I think my car has a little bit of that "whine" you described too. I'm sure it's just the engine. It's barely audible and doesn't bother me. I think it's actually a testament to the car's quietness in that it's so quiet that you can actually hear stuff like that.
  • cb2kcb2k Member Posts: 22
    Mrbill, Tamu, Grad -

    Thank you all for your taking the time to respsond. It is certainly helpful to know others' experiences, and input like yours is what makes these forums what they are.

    Any other input or experience is welcomed and appreciated.

    - cb2k
  • chrisxxxchrisxxx Member Posts: 18
    Hello,
    I am new to this forum, but not new to the Accord. I owned a 1988 Accord for over 17 years and loved that car to the end. I purchased a CRV last year, but traded it in on a 2007 EX Accord last month as it was too small for my very tall husband and uncomfortable to drive for me.
    I love everything new and improved about the 2007 Accord, but am disappointed by the harsh ride over rougher roads (common here). The seats and ride are less comfortable than my 17 year old Accord? (By the way the '88 is still running strong around town here with close to 200k miles and never broke down ever although I did maintain it very well).
    Question:
    1) Is car just stiff because its not broken in and will soften up with driving? (don't suggest tire pressure, yes tires were inflated to close to 50psi, but we lowered them to 32 and ride is still too harsh)
    2) I want to keep this car for 10-20 years like my '88, but I need a bit more smoothness. Can the struts, shocks, suspension be modified to give a softer ride? If so, please tell the products used and results. I also, don't want to do anything to effect the warranty. (I have read tire discussions and I am not convinced different tires will soak up the jolts better.)
    Again, overall I love this car and can't believe all the safety features and convenience features. I love the huge trunk and cupholders and armrests and the alloy wheels, and rear spoiler the car looks gorgeous. I just want to soften the ride to where my '88 was....
    Thank-you so much for any suggestions!
    Chris :shades:
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Get some Goodyear assurance comfort tread tires. MUCH softer ride @ 32psi also quieter. 80k warranty. About $400 installed at discount tire.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The car will be one of the stiffer-riding vehicles in this class (it has been noted for good handling and a somewhat "crispy" ride relative to something like a Camry.

    The ride/handling characteristics shouldn't change before the shocks/struts wear out - at least 100k miles before the car gets softer and floatier.

    The seats are a very individual thing. They will fit some better than others. As for me, I'm 6'4" and 190 lbs, and my car was very comfortable on my last 12 hour trip. They are firm and supportive in all the right spots for me. They are also likely much firmer than your '88 (I currently have an Accord with 174k miles so I know how they differ - the '96 I have isn't nearly as supportive/firm).
  • chrisxxxchrisxxx Member Posts: 18
    Hi,
    Thanks for replies!

    I will look into the tires in the fall maybe.

    Can any of the struts/shocks be replaced with softer more supple riding ones now? I never did anything to my '88s even with the high miles.

    I do prefer the Accord handling much over the Camry I once owned, but I am 41 years old now and maybe notice the bumps more!

    My daughter just bought a '96 Accord with 135k, my mechanice says the engine and tranny are like new so I think its gonna go over the 200k mark too! I was surprised at how much smaller the car seemed than either my '88 or '07 Accord though. (BTW I miss the cool retractable headlights on the new cars).

    One more thing I am thinking of doing is covering the ivory cloth seats with custom after market leatherette covers as I want ease of cleaning with kids and dogs.

    We own a 2007 Highlander also and I must say the ride is about as smooth as silk, but I gave it to my husband to drive because its not near as much fun as the Accord. :D

    Take care, Chris :P
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Chris,
    Do your seats have airbags in them? If they do, they will require special seat covers.

    We own a 2007 Highlander also and I must say the ride is about as smooth as silk, but I gave it to my husband to drive because its not near as much fun as the Accord.

    You have to give up some "smoothness" for that handling fun. ;)
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Ma'am. Step by step. Easiest thing first. The tires are a periodic expense. Try that first. Don't let anyone other than the dealer mess with your suspension.
  • chrisxxxchrisxxx Member Posts: 18
    Good points both of you...

    The custom seat covers you can get online are made for the air bag deployment. Pricey!

    The tires will be first to be replaced. I haven't decided if I can take off perfectly good tires yet. Its against my nature to waste them lol.....I think they are too big for the '96.

    Yes, the Highlander floats around, but its very boring just like the Camry I once owned. Someday maybe boring will be ok for me I guess I am not old enough yet. ;)

    Thanks so much for advice.
    Chris
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Talk to the tire shop about the tires you are removing. They should be worth something. Someone here will have an idea as to how to get something for them. If you can tough it out,you could just drive them till they wear out. Hope this helps.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    Is it normal for your brakes to squeal. I only have 21k on my 06 SE accord. I am a very gently driver, with braking, and handling it. I hear a bit of squeal at certain points when braking. Let me know. normal? When do people usually have to replace their brakes?

    Thanks!
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Besides the (V6-EX) Accord, we also own a 2006 I-4 Sonata (a great car, btw) and for about 4 months I was complaining about a whining sound coming from the engine, which was parallel to the engine's RPM. I was finally able to prove it to the reluctant dealer when driving 35-40 on a smooth, quiet road, shifting the gear to N and racing the engine up and down... The whining noise was now obvious.

    It was clear that the culprit is one of the items connected via the serpentine belt outside the engine. Turned out to be the POWER STEERING PUMP. They replaced it and the noise was gone. It could also be the Alternator, the A/C compressor, or the water pump.

    The sure way to conclude whether it comes from the inside of the engine/transmission, or outside of it, is to take off the belt so none of those "outside" elements is running -- and check for the noise.

    But you need a willing dealer for that... Good luck!
  • chrisxxxchrisxxx Member Posts: 18
    I forgot to ask if the Goodyear Comfort Tread tires are All-Season tires?
    Lots of snow days here.....
    Thank-you,
    Chris
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Yes,all season. Read the reviews on Tirerack.com. These really smoothed my harsh ride. I'm quite amazed that a different tire could make this much difference in ride quality. I don't think they handle quite as quickly as the Michelin oem tire but what a relief from being seemingly beaten every day by my Accord.
  • cb2kcb2k Member Posts: 22
    mamamia2, that's very interesting.

    I took the car to the dealer for an evaluation. Upon hearing it, the lead technician immediately diagnosed it as "transmission whine", which he said was common with these models but does not affect the performance or life of the transmission.

    They pulled out another new 07 accord 4 cylinder automatic from the lot with less than 10 miles on it for a comparison test drive, and I could hear it on that one as well.

    of course the comparison drive does not speak to the source of the whine, but it seems like it is not uncommon on these cars (as others here have noted).

    It would have been ideal to not have the whine at all, but my primary concern was if there was a defect with my car. As long as that is not the case, to me it is minor and the car has enough positives to offset this 'feature'.

    Having said that, it is always informative to hear other experiences and opinions.
  • aamixyaamixy Member Posts: 69
    I got the 07 Accord SE V6 at the end of Feb. So far, I am very pleased with its performance. But there is something that brings to my attention: on my way back home from work, I need to exit from US101 ramp to US237. At the end of the ramp, US237 has a very very gentle uphill, at that moment, around 30 to 40mph, the car's acceleration is very weak. It feels like the car maintains the speed for 2 seconds then starts to accelerate, very much like my old Geo Prizm. This is probably the only situation that I find this car's acceleration is not quite satisfying. Other than that, the power and acceleration is almost perfect. Do you guys have any experience like this? Or will a shift to D3 help? Thanks.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    No need to downshift. The car will automatically down shift if needed and what happens if you manually select reverse or park? :)
  • aamixyaamixy Member Posts: 69
    Thanks. I think that's a tricky situation. I need faster acceleration to merge onto another highway but the automatic transmission doesn't know this. :)

    Shifting to D3 doesn't need to press the button so I think it should be fine. But it could shift to N without pressing the button. :(
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Really tricky with a french fry in your hand. Just depress the accelerator and it will downshift. Just my .02.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 53,554
    either start accelerating sooner, or punch the gas harder to initiate the downshift.

    Or even better, trade it in for a stick shift, and you can always be in the gear you wnat, when you want it!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Or even better, trade it in for a stick shift, and you can always be in the gear you want, when you want it!

    I submit that I can probably get my automatic to downshift faster than you can push in the clutch, and change gears manually. And never have to put down my coffee cup. ;)
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 53,554
    given how slow many ATs are to kick down.

    The bigger issue with an automatic like the Accord (without the manumatic feature) is that it is very difficult to plan ahead. With a stick, you can be in the gear yo uneed before you need it, but with an automatic, they often won't shift until you have mashed the gas, and then it mulls it over for a while.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The bigger issue with an automatic like the Accord (without the manumatic feature) is that it is very difficult to plan ahead. With a stick, you can be in the gear yo uneed before you need it, but with an automatic, they often won't shift until you have mashed the gas, and then it mulls it over for a while.

    Well, that only works if you can plan ahead. If a passing situation arises suddenly, I would probably be halfway around the car by the time you get into the gear you decide to shift into. With the Accord automatic, there is no mulling. Magazine reviewers have commented that the Accord automatic always seems to be in the right gear, or will get their quickly when prompted to do so.
  • bristol2bristol2 Member Posts: 736
    Well, that only works if you can plan ahead. If a passing situation arises suddenly, I would probably be halfway around the car by the time you get into the gear you decide to shift into

    There is a reason stick shifts are faster in 0-60 than automatics. Among them are that you choose your gear and choose your revs.
    I guarantee you that a stick shift will not only be in gear but will be in the right set of revs to pass before an automatic will.
  • benderofbowsbenderofbows Member Posts: 542
    There are situations where automatics are faster than stick shifts. Say you are crusing down the road at around 55 mph, and a situation suddenly arises where you want to make a quick acceleration.

    If you are in an automatic, it is as simple as pressing your right floot to the floor and steering.

    If you are in a manual, you might try to remember... 55 mph, can I go down all the way to second gear, or should I go to third? Most people will probably choose third just to be safe and avoid over-revving, but that might not have been the best choice as second might have been good for an extra-quick burst of 5-10 mph while third will chug for a second or two.

    I still prefer the stick though ;) , if you know what you want to do in advance you can be in the gear ahead of time and be gone while the automatic is still torque-converting :shades:
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    But what about my french fry?
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    I submit that I can probably get my automatic to downshift faster than you can push in the clutch, and change gears manually. And never have to put down my coffee cup.

    Naah the automatic will take a second to decide if you are really serious, then it will unlock and then downshift. Besides since the stick is geared shorter, weighs less and has no torque converter it probably won't even need to downshift. ;)
  • yuryyury Member Posts: 146
    i thik this rebuttle needs refinement:)

    if we're talking drag racing, stick shifts are not faster bacause you make your gear selection better. they are faster (as far as i understand) because there's no torgue converter which is less efficient. in fact i can asure you the auto will pick better shift points in this type of test :) it just knows the engine better and has more precision.

    now, when you mash the gas on a half-decent auto it will kick down faster than you shifting. machines are just faster than humans :)

    your gear selection on a manual will only give you advantage if you plan ahead and downshift in advance or want to stay kicked down for a long while, which is probably more like racing situation.

    shifting in advance requires good timing. if you're too late you missed the opportunity. however you will not downshift a mile in advance because it's loud and sucks gas that way. in my 8 years of stick shift experience i basically rarely doenshifted in advance...cause most of the time i was too lazy planning ahead...it was just commute, not a race for a price :)
  • yuryyury Member Posts: 146
    a second to decide? what have you been driving? :)

    i suggest you take your stop watch and measure your manual shifts and an the auto.

    even my Malibu kicks down quite quick. the owners manual gives you some simle guideine to let the tranny know of your intent - mash it halfway - one gear down, much it all the way - 2. or something like that. works quite reliably.
  • rpacrpac Member Posts: 83
    I'm the new kid on the block (73) true! And I just purchased a new Accord. In the past 3 years I have driven both the 4 and 6 cyl Accords. Then one day I dropped by a Lexus dealer. Wrong! I bought a 07 RX350. By the way it is 6 inches shorter than the Accord. Anyway I was told that I had to warm the car up for at least 5 minutes in the morning before trying to shift into gear, (hey, I live in L.A. and not at the North Pole). Once I did, I got the usual 'bump' from the tranny in first gear. The car uses premium gas only. Oil changes are $130. Power steering noise and problems, alternator same thing, a/c same thing again. I actually had to buy a mechanics stethoscope to prove to them that a whining sound I heard was coming from the alternator. Only then did they change the part. etc etc etc. Finally got tired of nickel and dimming and happily went back to the Accord. I don’t like the stiff ride cause I have a bad back, but Lexus is just a name and nothing else. Do any of you good people out there have any advice on the car I just bought? Any comments would be appreciated, and yes I got a terrific deal! Thanks everyone for hearing me out. I am just terribly disgusted and disillusioned with the over priced Lexus cars.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Get some Goodyear assurance comfort tread tires to smooth the ride. Worked for me. Hope this helps.
  • bristol2bristol2 Member Posts: 736
    There is no delay in a manual, if you are at highway speed, you shift to 4th from 6th or 3rd from 5th, depending on how many gears you have.

    I drive my wife's automatic and when you push the gas all the way to the floor there is a delay..........................then there is a surge......................then, as soon as you get up to speed and are about to get to the front of the travel trailer in front of you, the auto shifts back up and you lose your 'oomph'.

    I'd rather select my gear and stay in it for as long as I decide is necessary.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    If you just learn to.....Scan...Identify...Predict...Decide...Execute...You don't even have to drop your french fry. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There is no delay in a manual, if you are at highway speed, you shift to 4th from 6th or 3rd from 5th, depending on how many gears you have.


    There is a delay. The time it takes you to shift from 6th to 4th, or 5th to 3rd. That delay is longer than the delay of the automatic, especially if your not ready to do it (hand on shifter, and foot on clutch).

    If you try to do it faster than the automatic, you will surely loose that fry. ;)
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    An automatic has an intermediate step going from 5th to third - fourth. ;)
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    The current oil has ~4K miles and is 6 months old (Castrol 5W20). The oil life monitor is at 50%. The car has 10K miles. I just checked the oil level and found it had burned about 0.8-1 qt oil. Is this normal? My driving style is VERY gentle, and mainly highway (~14 miles commute each way a day).
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    Is there any reason that you didn't leave the original Honda break-in oil (with whatever special ingredients) in the engine through their usual 7,500 mile recommended cycle before the first oil change? Of course I understand that it's no longer by miles, just the Mileage Minder.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    I recall I changed the factory oil when the minder was at 30% and the car had 6300 miles and was 5 or 6 months old. I did an oil analysis and posted it on this board. You can find it doing a simple search. That oil was remarkable! It was a good thing I didn't change it sooner. Honda's factory oil IS special as claimed and should be kept in long enough to do its break-in job.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
  • caverspencercaverspencer Member Posts: 2
    I am sure this has been answered somewhere but I couldnt find it by doing a search.

    How do you tell what model a '97 accord is?

    I purchased mine used about a year ago but the letter on the trunk are gone.

    My accord has the 4 cylinder V-Tech engine, Power windows and doors, Cruise control, AC, and Moon roof.

    My guess is that it is an EX?

    Oh and while I am at. is the V-tech engine the same as L4 2.2 Liter FI F22B2 2156 cc O.H.C.- SOHC
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