You bet, and welcome to the forums. Next time you have a question, check out any of the Honda Accord forums. One of interest to you might be the "Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair Forum" which would have been a good place to ask this.
The host often-times will shut very narrow discussions (like this one) down quickly. But please join in some of the others if you dare. They can be a lot of fun; I've learned an awful lot about my car by participating, asking questions, and even sharing some advice from my own experiences!
Interestingly, my 1996 Auto 4-cyl Accord will jump from 4th to 2nd, seeming to skip over third. This happens when I've dropped in speed, from say 40 to 23MPH. I hit the gas to get moving again, and it shifts suddenly, and firmly, into second gear.
I have close to 13K miles on my 06 Accord. According to the manual, I'm supposed to wait for the minder to tell me when to rotate the tires. I'm tempted to rotate them now though, since well, it's been 13K miles. Is my understanding correct and how reliable the minder is regarding tire rotation intervals? I trust it for oil change intervals but am not so sure about tires.
I usually rotate my tires every 6k miles because that's what the tire maker recommends. I do this myself, because I don't like tire places using air guns to tighten my lug nuts (torquing the lug nuts too much can warp the rotors from what I've heard and they can nick the paint if they aren't careful). I also like to clean the back side of the wheels at the same time.
Thanks. Maybe rotating the tires will be my next automotive adventure. Is Honda being sloppy here in their tire rotation recommendation by using the minder?
I am glad my 03 doesn't have the minder system. I would probably disagree with a lot of what it recommends. Some people find it helpful though, and don't have a problem with the intervals suggested. I like the flexibility of the old way. The minder system doesn't seem to have any flexibility to it. If you re-set the minder because you did one thing ahead of schedule, you've re-set it for everything else too. Hard to teach an old dog new tricks, I guess.
"If you re-set the minder because you did one thing ahead of schedule, you've re-set it for everything else too. "
That's a good point, which I didn't realize. Is this really true? I reset the minder after the first oil change at 6300 miles. If that reset the tire interval as well, then I'm long overdue for a tire rotation.
I don't have the minder system, so I can't say for sure. But it does seem to me that unless you follow the minder system to the letter, it becomes pretty much useless. If I am going to do some maintenance items according to mileage, I may as well do them all that way.
Yes, the MM system will reset everything. I started letting it go to 15% each time and it works well for me. That keeps everything in order and allows for my poor memory. If there is something that really bothers me, I'll just take care of it. The cabin filter is the only thing I can think of that I did later than the MM suggested.
In the grand scheme of things, letting tire rotation go a few thousand miles longer isn't going to do much harm, IMHO.
I bit the bullet and got the tire rotation done yesterday. I waited 2 h but the service was free at Discount Tire. The wear on the front tires was obviously worse than the rear ones but wasn't bad at all, at least from what I can tell. I drive very gently and don't make sharp turns.
My oil life per the minder is at 20%, which's been consisent so far taking ~6500 miles/6 months to get to 20%. I'll change the oil today.
Hi everyone, Tomorrow I am removing a F22B motor on a 1996 accord LX and installing a 1995 motor from Japan. The Japanese motor doesn't have a sensor on the oil pump. I can't find my Haynes manual which I thought was ok at best. Does anyone know where I can download a good manaul similar to what is used at a dealership? I really don't want to buy another hanynes manual tomorrow. I need to pull the front of this motor apart tomorrow. Can anyone think of anything I should watch out for other than pinning the counter weight. Be careful if you buy a 1996 Japanese motor. You will end up with a 1994-5 that the supplier changes the oil pump and charges you 200 more. I'm short for time the supplier put the screws to me. After setting the whole thing up a week ago, they waited for me to take the day off drive 50 miles to tell me there is no warranty because I am swapping the pump. I called them from an add on Ebay and they knew this is what I was doing. They wanted 200 more for a 96. After they put me on the spot I said I would take the 96. One of the guys slipped and said there was no time to take one of the motors and install a pump with the sensor.
This is my first post so hello all. This site rocks...
Anyways.... I am new to driving and i hope to finallyget my license soon and my first car i would like to buy is a 2003+ accord (i love the redesign+i cant afford a 2008 )
Anyways.... I am a big dude.... 5'7 and about 280 pounds (im working on that)
Is this car very roomy for a big person? If possible anyone have first hand experience? I have not gotten a chance to try one but if anyone out there has, pls let me know? I would highly appreciate it.
I am really thinking hard at the Accord2003+ or a CRV
Ive also been eynf the Honda Fit.. but i guess that car is probably too small and its better for a thin person
I am getting a knocking noise in the middle of the front end of my car. When I turn to the left the noise gets worse. I have replaced both drive axles and I am still getting the noise. Would bad bearings in the wheel where the drive axle connects cause this noise? Would the bearings in the intermediate shaft between the drive axle and where it connects to the manual transmission cause this noise?
two questions - What is a SE? How it is different from EX and LX? Is it difficult/expensive to get parts for this Special Edition ? - How much should I pay extra for accord that has honda certification?
SE stands for special edition. It is very similar to the EX in that it has a sunroof, auto door locks/windows ect. The LX however does not have a sunroof but still does have auto door locks/windows. DX model is the one that has no auto door locks nor auto windows ect. Basically an SE model shouldnt be harder to get parts for. A lot of parts can be used for the EX,SE and LX. When you get into electronic parts ie ECU, or SRS unit then you get a little more specific. Other than that it isnt a big deal.
SE stands for special edition. It is very similar to the EX in that it has a sunroof, auto door locks/windows ect.
I don't know which year you're talking about; for the 2003-2007 that's incorrect.
In the 2003-2007 models, the Accord SE adds to the LX model a 6-CD changer, carbon-look interior trim, alloy wheels, 4-wheel discs with EBD. There is no moonroof on the SE. The EX adds a moonroof, aluminum-look trim, heated exterior mirrors, and a couple of other doo-dads for the interior.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord. About a week and a half ago my battery died. My friend jumped it and all was fine. Except before it died my doors would automatically lock when I started the car, and automatically unlock when I turned off the car. Now it won't do that anymore. Is there anyway to get it back to it's normal routine? Thanks!
I've never heard of any pre-2008 Honda having auto-door locks. My 2006 EX doesn't have them, and neither does my 1996 Accord (which would be the same as a 1997).
I've never heard of automatic door locks on an older Accord either. They really locked on their own when you started driving?? Perhaps someone could have added them aftermarket, although I've never heard of that either. I suppose anything is possible.
We get a light on the dash (S) ..a green lit S with a circle it ( book says have trans checked ) It takes off very slowly, as if you are already in second gear , verrrrrry sluggish. If we manually downshift to first, it takes off with plenty of power
We get a light on the dash (S) ..a green lit S with a circle it ( book says have trans checked ) It takes off very slowly, as if you are already in second gear , verrrrrry sluggish. If we manually downshift to first, it takes off with plenty of power
any help very much appreciated
I know this problem well: Just take off the negative battery terminal for about 10 minutes and it should resolve itself; I have to do it about every 6 months
The 1900 and 1991 were famous for this. I give credit tot he guy from BAT Automotive, an online guy for helping me resolve this issue about 2 years ago after spending $450.00 to get the trans fixed. I was the one who got FIXED!!! To the tune of $450.00.
He told me to take off the neg terminal, wait 10 minutes and then it should resolve itself. It worked. Apparently the car is trying to take off in second gear and then go to third, first is not locked out if you do it manually. Very common problem.
I just purchased a 2002 Honda Accord Ex and it didn't contain the owners user manual, could someone please tell me how to use the cruise control. I have a button on the far left that has the word cruise and other buttons on the stirring wheels, please help!!!!
could someone please tell me how to use the cruise control.
Most Accords have a "Cruise Main" type of button. That's the one on the left that says "Cruise". You need to turn that on first. Then you get up to speed and press the "Set" button on your steering wheel. Take your foot off the accelerator and you should be good to go.
It turns off when you step on the brake or turn the Cruise button off (or depress the clutch if you are lucky enough to have a manual transmission.) The other buttons on your steering wheel let you accelerate or decelerate, once the cruise control is engaged. If you press the brake to turn off the cruise but leave the Cruise button on, you can then press the Resume button on the steering wheel and the car will go back to it's former cruising speed.
I have a Kia Rio (2002) and Honda Accord (2008). Both automatic and parked in parking lot. I live in Northern Virginia/DC Metro Area. I would say we have moderate winter. I would be out of country for a month. (late November to late December) To keep the cars okay do i need to make the arrangement so someone can start the engine periodically (once a week, once in two weeks). please help.
A month is long enough to risk having the battery go dead, and possibly freeze.
If you don't mind having to enter security codes for the radio, then I would suggest disconnecting one of the battery cables. Once disconnected it should have enough charge to start the car when you return provided your batteries are in good shape to start with. If your cars are due for an oil change, I would do that before you go so the engine has clean oil when it starts after a long sit.
Veery interested in this as I have a 1999 Accord which has a Limited Edition badge where the LX etc, usually is. It is a vtec 4 with automatic. Very good looking although I suspect the previous owner may have added a few items. I can find NO info on a 99 accord Limited Edition. If anyone knows anything about this car please let me know.
Exactly my thoughts; or perhaps the dealer the car was purchased from added a "limited edition" package (you know, mud-guards, interior protectant, gold package, etc sort of things)which really wasn't a trim-level. Honda didn't offer a "Limited Edition" model then (I'm not sure they EVER have, as a matter of fact). SE/Special Edition, yes. L.E., no.
I have a 2001 Honda Accord with the 4 cy engine with the variable valve timing. It has 104K miles on the engine. When you are just at an idle hot or cold the valve train is noisy until you get your foot into it a little and start to accelerate. Up to speed is then quite. I think it involves something in the variable valve timing system. I had the timing belt,water pump recommended service performed not long ago.This noise was present before this was done and is still there. I was hoping that when that service was performed that the problem would go away. Is this a normal noise or should I be concerned. If it is something that needs to be taken care of by the Honda Techs what should I tell them to look for or listen for. Any help out there. I really like the car it has an auto tranny that was replaced under warranty and it has been very dependable and fuel efficient and I am not ready to get rid of it yet. Please help!!!!!!!!!
i have a 2000 honda accord , i have an annoying rattle under my car. sounds as if it is coming from passengers front side. i have had to several garages, no one can find problem. i've had bearing, ty rods, balljoints checked. i recently had struts replaced. i had new tires put on, vehicle aligned. still same problem, has anyone experienced this problem? everything seems to be good, i also had the bushings,and motormounts replaced
I have a 95 accord that leaks on the driver's side floorboard when it rains. This has been going on for over a year and I have had everything checked. No one can fix it! All drains and seals are working properly. Windshield is fine. The last person who checked said that it appeared to be coming from around (behind??) the firewall, but can't tell from where. Hose tests are no good because sometimes it takes a day before the water shows up. And it is drenched, often under the seat and to the back. It ONLY happens after a rain. It is not heater or ac related because it happens winter and summer. I love this car and want to get it to 200K before I sell....Please help. I am now desperate....
It's been a while since a headlamp burned out, but one now has. The left one I can reach but it is very difficult to turn the bulb and get it out. Does anyone suggest something like WD40 to help get it loose.
Now, the real problem. The headlamp on the right side has no room to even get a finger in there. Any suggestions how to proceed will be greatly appreciated.
This is probably a typical situation that all parents come across. Kids at school and the car goes on the fritz, this time it's the AC clutch. Car only has 90K on it so should I replace just the clutch or go for it all? The cost for a Denso compressor is appx $250 and the drier $20.00.
They should be able to capture the freon.
The shop wants $750.00 to do the job, I can understand 3 hours to replace though they want 4 hours. Anyone know of a reputable mechanic in gainesville that does not quote $900 first and then FINALLY get realistic?
I have a 93 Accord SE and need to replace/re-attach the heater cable. For the life of me I can't find out how to access the cable.
The console between the driver and passenger seats has been removed, but I'm stumped how to access the device that holds the end of the heater cable (behind the plate). I guess the easy way to ask the question is, how do I get the heater control plate off to access the end of the heater cable.
For anyone with this problem, it's simple. What is difficult to turn is the ring that will release the bulb. Turn the ring, and the bulb will slide out. It's not like the Mazda you own.
i am one of those ' imperfects" according to my insurance company. one recent rainy dark night i parked in my driveway. i was gathering things to taken in the house. the keys were in my hand - signaling to me that the car was in park. as i got out, the force of the door opening started the car rolling down the drive, knocking me down. i was able to roll out of the way, but it caused $8000 damage to the car and my neighbors property. review of NHTSA reports showed 0 other reports of cars rolling. i have talked with several people who have had this happen. until someone gets hurt nothing will be done. it is the same interlock system of the recalled accords and civics. when it happens to you will understand - the keys just fall out - you don't realize that you think it is in park.
I have recently started having problems with my '91 Accord. After driving for about 10 to 15 minutes, the engine stumbles when I accelerate. This only happens after the engine has warmed up, never when cold. The techs at the dealership have not been able to find any problems that would cause this to happen. They first thought the egr valve, but concluded the stumbilg would happen all the time, not just when the engine is warm..and no codes came up on their diagnostics around this. I have had a myriad of suggestions from others, like contaminated gas, a bad distributor, plugged injectors...the list goes on. Could it be the O2 sensor as one person suggested..or the transmission? Has anyone else out there had this problem, had it diagnosed and fixed? I am going to drive a fair distance in a few weeks and really want it taken care of!!"
Comments
The LX had a non-Vtec engine, and no moonroof. The Special Edition Accords from 1997 had the moonroof, but no Vtec.
The host often-times will shut very narrow discussions (like this one) down quickly. But please join in some of the others if you dare. They can be a lot of fun; I've learned an awful lot about my car by participating, asking questions, and even sharing some advice from my own experiences!
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.efdf920/">1994-1997 Accord Maintenance and Repair Forum
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ef7c366/">Accord Real World MPG Forum
That's a good point, which I didn't realize. Is this really true? I reset the minder after the first oil change at 6300 miles. If that reset the tire interval as well, then I'm long overdue for a tire rotation.
In the grand scheme of things, letting tire rotation go a few thousand miles longer isn't going to do much harm, IMHO.
My oil life per the minder is at 20%, which's been consisent so far taking ~6500 miles/6 months to get to 20%. I'll change the oil today.
Tomorrow I am removing a F22B motor on a 1996 accord LX and installing a 1995 motor from Japan. The Japanese motor doesn't have a sensor on the oil pump. I can't find my Haynes manual which I thought was ok at best. Does anyone know where I can download a good manaul similar to what is used at a dealership? I really don't want to buy another hanynes manual tomorrow. I need to pull the front of this motor apart tomorrow. Can anyone think of anything I should watch out for other than pinning the counter weight.
Be careful if you buy a 1996 Japanese motor. You will end up with a 1994-5 that the supplier changes the oil pump and charges you 200 more. I'm short for time the supplier put the screws to me. After setting the whole thing up a week ago, they waited for me to take the day off drive 50 miles to tell me there is no warranty because I am swapping the pump. I called them from an add on Ebay and they knew this is what I was doing. They wanted 200 more for a 96. After they put me on the spot I said I would take the 96. One of the guys slipped and said there was no time to take one of the motors and install a pump with the sensor.
Carl
Anyways.... I am new to driving and i hope to finallyget my license soon and my first car i would like to buy is a 2003+ accord (i love the redesign+i cant afford a 2008 )
Anyways.... I am a big dude.... 5'7 and about 280 pounds (im working on that)
Is this car very roomy for a big person? If possible anyone have first hand experience? I have not gotten a chance to try one but if anyone out there has, pls let me know? I would highly appreciate it.
I am really thinking hard at the Accord2003+ or a CRV
Ive also been eynf the Honda Fit.. but i guess that car is probably too small and its better for a thin person
Best bet is to have it all checked out by a good suspension guy.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
- What is a SE? How it is different from EX and LX? Is it difficult/expensive to get parts for this Special Edition ?
- How much should I pay extra for accord that has honda certification?
I don't know which year you're talking about; for the 2003-2007 that's incorrect.
In the 2003-2007 models, the Accord SE adds to the LX model a 6-CD changer, carbon-look interior trim, alloy wheels, 4-wheel discs with EBD. There is no moonroof on the SE. The EX adds a moonroof, aluminum-look trim, heated exterior mirrors, and a couple of other doo-dads for the interior.
Hope this helps.
Thegrad
Is there anyway to get it back to it's normal routine?
Thanks!
Is yours a US/Canadian Accord?
thanks in advance ~~
( book says have trans checked )
It takes off very slowly, as if you are already in second gear , verrrrrry sluggish.
If we manually downshift to first, it takes off with plenty of power
any help very much appreciated
( book says have trans checked )
It takes off very slowly, as if you are already in second gear , verrrrrry sluggish.
If we manually downshift to first, it takes off with plenty of power
any help very much appreciated
I know this problem well: Just take off the negative battery terminal for about 10 minutes and it should resolve itself; I have to do it about every 6 months
Glenn
He told me to take off the neg terminal, wait 10 minutes and then it should resolve itself. It worked. Apparently the car is trying to take off in second gear and then go to third, first is not locked out if you do it manually. Very common problem.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
This link tells you how to get the trouble codes from the computer, if there are any.
http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
Click on owner's manuals at the left, and enter your car's information.
Most Accords have a "Cruise Main" type of button. That's the one on the left that says "Cruise". You need to turn that on first. Then you get up to speed and press the "Set" button on your steering wheel. Take your foot off the accelerator and you should be good to go.
It turns off when you step on the brake or turn the Cruise button off (or depress the clutch if you are lucky enough to have a manual transmission.) The other buttons on your steering wheel let you accelerate or decelerate, once the cruise control is engaged. If you press the brake to turn off the cruise but leave the Cruise button on, you can then press the Resume button on the steering wheel and the car will go back to it's former cruising speed.
To keep the cars okay do i need to make the arrangement so someone can start the engine periodically (once a week, once in two weeks). please help.
If you don't mind having to enter security codes for the radio, then I would suggest disconnecting one of the battery cables. Once disconnected it should have enough charge to start the car when you return provided your batteries are in good shape to start with. If your cars are due for an oil change, I would do that before you go so the engine has clean oil when it starts after a long sit.
Mrbill
Kind of like adding Buick port holes on a Chrysler.
Mrbill
Now, the real problem. The headlamp on the right side has no room to even get a finger in there. Any suggestions how to proceed will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Tom C
They should be able to capture the freon.
The shop wants $750.00 to do the job, I can understand 3 hours to replace though they want 4 hours. Anyone know of a reputable mechanic in gainesville that does not quote $900 first and then FINALLY get realistic?
Other options appreciated as well...
The console between the driver and passenger seats has been removed, but I'm stumped how to access the device that holds the end of the heater cable (behind the plate). I guess the easy way to ask the question is, how do I get the heater control plate off to access the end of the heater cable.
93 Accord SE, 2.2 L engine
Thanks for any help.
Tom
For anyone with this problem, it's simple. What is difficult to turn is the ring that will release the bulb. Turn the ring, and the bulb will slide out. It's not like the Mazda you own.
Best
Tom
Has anyone else out there had this problem, had it diagnosed and fixed? I am going to drive a fair distance in a few weeks and really want it taken care of!!"