Could it be the insurance company's computers are wrong? Are they inputing the correct VIN? Although it's possible that Volvo put the wrong VIN number on the vehicle, I don't find it probable.
Are all the VIN's listed on the car and the paperwork the same?
nickp48, if you have the manufacturer's sticker (mulroney, if memory serves), fax that to the insurance company. The sticker shows both the VIN and the model description. It is rather difficult to argue that the VIN is for a T5 if the sticker shows otherwise.
I had the exact same issue arise when I added my 2004 2.5T to insurance. I gave them my info over the phone, but then, when my policy arived it showed my car to be a T5! I called and they said that the VIN I gave them was a T5. I asked them to change it, they did, but it did not change my premium. I then received a new policy showing the 2.5T
Most likely, it won't make much of a difference at all. Like shoelessben said, his didn't change. When I added my T5 to my policy, the rep looked up the VIN and said, "oh, its listed here as a high performance car. That makes a difference." When I asked how much, she said (IIRC) about $9 a year. Maybe it was $19, but it was something ridiculously low. So don't know if I would sweat it too much trying to fix it. It might not be worth your time. just a thought.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I finally got the problem solved. It turned out to be the insurance company's computer system. They hadn't updated their model names for 2004, so their system didn't recognize 2.5T at all. It was automatically coding it as a T5, since it only had that and 2.4T to choose from. It made a difference of about $200 a year. Thanks for everyone's input.
By the way, hats off to Volvo North Scottsdale. The salesman and sales manager called my insurance company for me to get it straightened out. I would definitely recommend this dealership to anyone in the Phoenix area.
I recently purchased a 2003 S60 2.4T with 4,700 miles on it. At the 7,500 mile scheduled service, I had the dealer use a full synthetic oil. I am getting conflicting advice on the frequency of the oil changes. Some people are telling me that because I used a full synthetic that I do not need another oil change until the 15,000 service. Others are telling me that I should do an oil change between the 7,500 and 15,000 mile service (in which case just use a regular oil instead of the synthetic). Any recommendations would be appreciated.
The interval is every 7500 miles whether you use full synthetic or not. If you drive the car is a high stress environment, or if your Speed Racer you might want to change the oil sooner.
My son just bought a new 2004 S60 in Dallas for an internet advertised price of $5000 off MSRP. According to Edmunds' figures, this is $700 less than actual dealer cost (invoice minus $2000 rebate minus 1% holdback). How did they make their money?
for you guys that are looking for new performance tires, check out the (dont laugh) firestone firehawk ZR series.im on my second set and they are without a doubt the best tires i have ever had and long lasting. however, no good on snow and ice and cost about $160-190 installed each but good for at least 40k. also, im concerned about reliabilty of volvo s60 series i have heard some horror stories.
Edmunds says Volvo is giving $2k cash back to current Volvo owners and $3k back to current owners of Mercedes, Audi, BMW, and Saab. Are there more incentives that Edmunds doesn't know about?
Edmunds is not entirely accurate. That program was scrapped on day 1 The new program is $2000 back on 2.4 $3000 back on 2.5T/2.5T AWD and T5 Regardless of whether you are a Volvo owner or the owner of a BMW, Mercedes, Audi or SAAB.
I was told a few weeks ago that it was $2,000 off on a 2.5T manufacturer to dealer. Have they increased it recently? Do you know if the $3,000 back is manufacturer to dealer or manufacturer to customer?
Any thoughts on a good selection and price for a set of winter wheels/tires for the S60R? At this point, the only option for wheels are the stock Volvo Pegasus rims. My dealer quoted a combo of 17" Pegasus rims with Pirelli 225/45/17 Prosport 240 tires for $1600 total for the four tires mounted/balanced out the door.
Seem reasonable? Are the Pirellis a good choice for rural Minnesota (bitter cold and drifting snow)?
IMHO, I'd spend the $1600 on a beater and pamper the Volvo!!
TireRack doesn't specifically list the S60R but they have Volvo offerings in 17" with alloys for about $1000. You may want to call them. Perhaps 16" can fit as well.
I did call TireRack and they will not have a wheel for the S60R in time for the winter season, but they are pushing manufacturers to produce one. Since the R series is fairly low volume, the mfrs. aren't rushing to market with a rim suitable to fit the massive Brembo brakes. Therefore, the only option at this point are Volvo rims.
As to the beater, I don't think I could let the R sit all winter. The heated seats, stereo, and AWD will bring a smile to my face as my winter car.
I'm not going to just buy tires and change the tires on the same rims twice a year. After a couple years, I would spend more on service (mounting and balance) costs to change out the tires, not to mention the wear on the bead of the tire.
So that leaves me with only the winter tire selection as an unknown, and whether to buy the package through my dealer or find my own tires and have them mounted on the Volvo rims. Pretty sure I will just go with the dealer's package mentioned above, but would welcome input from anyone.
Unless otherwise noted all Volvo incentives are Manufacturer to Dealer.
The AARP incentive in Manufacturer to customer. The difference is that the customer must sign a form acknowledging the rebate. (AARP an additional $1000 to existing members)
I know that 16" wheels won't fit, that's what I posted, by saying that 17" Pegasus was the only option.
Since the stock S60R comes with Pirellis and my dealer is offering the winter tire package with Pirellis, I'm not sure where the Volvo recommendation for winter Michelins comes from? Could you add more to that?
And which Michelin winter tire are comparing to which Pirelli winter tire? I'm going to have to live with these winter treads, just want to make sure I make a good decision.
Try the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. It gets technical, but the A/S tire is designed for winter conditions as well as wet weather - and even dry weather too... .
We have the opportunity to purchase a used (6100 miles, built 11/02) 2003 S60 AWD for under $30k. I would appreciate the reader's thoughts on the value of this purchase. Would you buy this car?
We checked carfax and no red flags there. It looks brand new. Any other questions we should be asking?
Can anyone provide the step by step instructions for the cabin air filter replacement on the 2002 S60? Also, is there a way to reset the service indicator on the S60?
Here is the procedure for changing the cabin filter. This is on an S80, but I read that it is the same on the S60 (althought the filter part number is different) http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/s80cfc.htm
S60 2.5t Premium and Sport package -- Picked one up yesterday at $4300 under MSRP and got $3000 over Edmunds valuation trade in. I might have still left a few bucks on the table. Dealer Neeley - Atlanta GA
I am looking at the 2004 S60 AWD for my next car. As a recent college grad with student loans, I can't really afford to buy one so I am leaning towards leasing. The problem I have is that a 15,000 miles/yr lease would really be cutting it close for me, but 16,000 mi/yr would give me a little extra room to work with (road trips!). Does anyone know if Volvo will allow dealers to individualize leasing options? Are there added fees for doing so? If I were to go over in miles, but I lease or buy another Volvo at the end, any chance the dealer may let the charges for the extra miles slide?
Volvomax, have you received any news on whether or not the 2005 S40 will be shipped to the U.S.A. with a diesel engine option? The dealer staff that I know have not heard anything about whether a diesel engine will be available for the U.S.A. market. Given the low interest in diesels by most Volvo buyers in the U.S.A., I personally doubt that a diesel will make it to the U.S.A. However, the performance specification for the 2.0 litre diesel (136 hp; but check out the 340 nm of torque... better than the T5 (320 nm of torque)) that will be available for the S40 in Europe piques the interest.
You can try for anything when making a deal, but, usually, you would pay more monthly in order to tack more miles to the lease up front (and, yes, you can do that). I've never heard of 16K a year, but I have, not specifically at a Volvo dealer, been offered 12K/15K/18K/20K lease deals. So, if it makes you feel better, you can try for an 18K deal. BUT, if you don't use the miles, its your loss. If you get a 15K deal and use, let's say, 16K a year, than at the end of 3 years, you have only gone over by 3K miles. At 12 cents or 15 cents a mile, you are only looking at about $400. You would most likely pay much more than that over the course of a 3yr lease if you took the 18K option. So just make sure you think about the numbers and do the math.
Oh, and, yes, if you got another Volvo, they could "roll" the extra mile money into the new car. Would they forget about it completely? Again, you can try for anything when dealing. I'm sure they wouldn't let you walk over a few hundred bucks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 2003 S60T. Due to the turbo, I have heard that you should allow the car to "cool down" before turning off the engine. Is this true? If so, for how long? My salesman told me that was for older technology and that the new Volvos do not need this cool down time.
ejgabe, Just purchased a 2004 S60 2.5t. The book titled Warranty and Service Records Information, page 58, Turbocharger Operating Tips, reads as follows-- Before switching off the engine, let it operate at idle for a short time to allow the spinning of the turbocharger's turbine vanes to slow. After hard driving, this idle time should last a couple of minutes, during which the vanes will slow and the compressor will cool down while still receiving oil lubrication. If the turbine vanes are spinning at high speeds when the engine is switched off, there is a great risk of heat damage and/or turbine seizure due to lack of lubrication. DO NOT RACE THE ENGINE JUST PRIOR TO SWITCHING OFF!
qbrozen & phils60, great information - thanks! What is your option about going 7,500 miles between oil changes. I am using a full synthetic and hope to go 7,500 between oil changes. I am a normal driver, nothing extensive or hard. Volvomax recommends going the 7,500 between oil changes.
i agree with volvomax. Its fine. But I only say that because you're using synthetic. Otherwise I'd say 4k-5k miles, regardless of what manufacturers say these days. just my opinion, though.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I've owned a 2001 Volvo S60T for the past two years. I haven't experienced any problems except for the loud highway noise and the odor that is in my AC system. The odor is so bad that I can smell it in my clothes in my 10 minute commute to/from work. I took the car to the dealership and they gave they spray the interior and the AC input vents with a Odor eliminator, but the odor still appears. I was wondering if any other owners are experiencing this problem?
There's a wide array of opinion to that question. For a sound engine not operating in extreme conditions, the oil, mineral or synthetic, won't significantly loose lubricating properties for an awfully long time. That being said, CONTAMINANTS are the key. Frequent cold starts tend to contribute to oil contamination more than anything else. Manufacturers of synthetics claiming 15-25k between oil changes still recommend changing filters at normal intervals. 7500 miles? My first oil/filter change will be at 500 miles, then every 3500. I'm sure the 2.5t will not know the difference... but I will. (grin)
An early first oil change is always a good idea in my opinion.
As far as the 3500 interval, I've recently come to acknowledge that our old maintenance schedule of every 3K miles is becoming outdated. With the advancement of lubricants and manufacturing it just doesn't make economical sense to change the oil at the same interval on an 2003 auto as on a 1963. Its definitely been a hard fought battle in my mind as I'm sure it is in many others who aren't new to driving and car owning. But, like you said, it is an old argument. Everybody should just do what they are comfortable with (as long as the comfortable level isn't changing it every 50K).
By the way, I always change it at 5K in my s70 with Valvoline 5w30 and it always comes out pretty darned clear (and, relating to what I stated above, MUCH cleaner than it used to in my '78 Mercury Zephyr at 3K mile intervals).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
qbrozen, Absolutely. Thirty years ago it was a very different story with engine and fuel delivery designs, lengthy warm up periods and leaded fuels. Still, as you say, my comfort level with extended oil change intervals has not kept pace with technology. On the other hand, while reading through the Volvo Owner's Manual, I get the impression that Volvo plays a bit to the ecologically minded. That may be a partial explanation for Volvo's extended oil change intervals over that of many other manufacturers.
5w30 seems to be the recommended oil for most new cars. I live in the south where 90+ degree days are the norm during the summer, so I switch to 10w30 during those months.
The production run of 2004 S60R models is probably nearing the end. They had a limited number of parts to make these cars. They probably won't be making more until October 2004 for Model Year 2005, so if you want to order one the way you want it, decide very soon. There are some cars unspoken for around the country.
We're very impressed with how Volvo changed it's look and enjoy the style, design, safety features, and luxury trimmings (in a Viking sort of way) of the S60, great overall package! This seems like the right place to solicit opinions on reliability of the low pressure turbo 2.5T. How will it hold up over the years?
The plain S60 seems adequate but we messed up and drove the 2.5T first, no turning back now. The rocket-sled T-5 suffers a bit of lag and offers more 'whooshiness' than we feel we need. I can't imagine what 300 ponies of the R would feel like...scared to find out or I'll want one. The 'T' seems to strike the perfect balance of practical available power like a hidden dragon, without that crouching tiger feel of the T-5 (with a short pounce delay).
I remember dad having indestructible Volvos (240 --115K miles with original clutch, 540?- 250K miles, didn't need a clutch except to put it in first) and am now in the a financial position to take the plunge. Even if I had the opportunity before, I didn't like the look of the pre-S70 boxy family trucksters. Is Volvo still that indestructible car company?
I've seen S60 rave reviews/recommendations and horror stories beyond what one would expect from a car with a high quality history, most from the 2001 model year. Recognizing there are first year bugs and quality variances in all vehicles, it appears that Volvo drivers are either having a wide range of opinions and problems, or are just more engaged and vocal about it. Ironic as me asking for more opinions doesn't help.
It's a crowded market segment & tough choice, also considering Lexus ES330, Infiniti G35 sedan, etc. Not considering the Merce' 320 or Beemer 3-series as to equip one like a nicely dressed FWD S60 is out of our price range. We want to replace our 4-cyl '02 Camry (yawn) as it never yearns to be driven; boring yet dependable.
Also, why does it seem the Premium, Sport, and Touring packages aren't available together? Most come with the Comfort instead of Touring package and in FL I don't need heated seats and am not impressed with headlight wipers.
Lastly (thank goodness), can one web savvy first time Volvo buyer expect to coerce a dealer into locating and selling one at or below invoice? If not, what percent off or dollar amount would constitute a good deal (I know hosts will point to Edmunds TMV but is there a 'hidden expect to dealer' rebate too)???
OK, I've rambled enough, please opine (it has nothing to do with trees).
Davant out '03 Expie 4x2 5.4 EB '02 Camry (it takes good pictures) '04 S60 2.5T?
Glad to see that you enjoyed your S60 test drives. Looks like you were able to get behind the wheel of every S60, but the S60R.
Have you driven any of the other vehicles you have on your list? If so how did they compare...
The 2.5T engine: It is a nice balance of power and torque. As a bonus the torque is available at relatively low RPM's for a turbo (1500)....so it fits nicely with US driver expectations. It's like the Goldilocks of the Volvo engines not to hot or too cold... it's 'just right'.
Evidince of this 'just right' factor is that the 2.5T is used by volvo in a LOT of US models (S60 FWD, S60AWD, V70, V70 AWD, XC 70 AWD, XC90 FWD, XC90AWD ) As the vehicles get heavier, the 2.5T becomes the 'base' engine... but will still be servicable. In the S60 you are considering, this is a great choice of engine - one of the lightest US models the 2.5T is in.
Engine reliability - since this current 2.5T (LPT) configuration is one of the newer ones, it's hard to tell. I guess you could look @ the existing T5 High Pressure Turbo engine (HPT originally used in the old 850 Turbo's from the mid 90's ) for an indicator - as there are examples with high miles by now.
Dealer Pricing: I'll leave that to the 'experts', but it depends on how soon you need to buy. Since you are replacing an 02 camry - I would think that time is on your side. So how soon before you need to purchase?
Options & Packages: It get's hard to get exactly what you want without anything 'extra'. There is a possible solution - Overseas Delivery (OSD)
OSD - order the exact car you want for a price less than MSRP, WAIT for your car to be BUILT, take a trip to Sweden ( round trip air included in purchase), pick up your car in Sweden, drive around Europe for up to 15 days, drop off the car , fly home.. wait for car to get ashore... drive car home from dealer.
OSD is a whole post in itself, but the concept is nice. You can check it out on volvo's site & there are a couple of sites on the net to see pricing. Usually base price is less than dealer invoice, but options are at MSRP... so if you only have 1 or 2 options, your OSD total is usually less than Dealer Invoice. DON"T forget destiantion on dealer pricing is included in the price listed for OSD. One word of warning... work with your dealer to figure out how to make sure you have something to drive between returning home & picking up your new car at the dealer.
Of course dealer rebates passed along to YOU could end up with a total less than OSD. So when you are comparing prices, keep in mind that you have Dealer Invoice, Edmunds TMV, and OSD pricing to compare.
FWIW - I went through a lot of the same research & pricing options for about a year before we purchased a 2003 S60 AWD (with the 2.5T) last spring. We were looking at FWD, but the timing was such that the existing dealer rebate on S60 AWD made up for the savings of OSD and the fact that 2004 models have some scheduled maintence included.
Comments
Are all the VIN's listed on the car and the paperwork the same?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
By the way, hats off to Volvo North Scottsdale. The salesman and sales manager called my insurance company for me to get it straightened out. I would definitely recommend this dealership to anyone in the Phoenix area.
If you drive the car is a high stress environment, or if your Speed Racer you might want to change the oil sooner.
According to Edmunds' figures, this is $700 less than actual dealer cost (invoice minus $2000 rebate minus 1% holdback). How did they make their money?
That program was scrapped on day 1
The new program is $2000 back on 2.4
$3000 back on 2.5T/2.5T AWD and T5
Regardless of whether you are a Volvo owner or the owner of a BMW, Mercedes, Audi or SAAB.
Seem reasonable? Are the Pirellis a good choice for rural Minnesota (bitter cold and drifting snow)?
Thanks.
TireRack doesn't specifically list the S60R but they have Volvo offerings in 17" with alloys for about $1000. You may want to call them. Perhaps 16" can fit as well.
As to the beater, I don't think I could let the R sit all winter. The heated seats, stereo, and AWD will bring a smile to my face as my winter car.
I'm not going to just buy tires and change the tires on the same rims twice a year. After a couple years, I would spend more on service (mounting and balance) costs to change out the tires, not to mention the wear on the bead of the tire.
So that leaves me with only the winter tire selection as an unknown, and whether to buy the package through my dealer or find my own tires and have them mounted on the Volvo rims. Pretty sure I will just go with the dealer's package mentioned above, but would welcome input from anyone.
Volvo also recommends Michelin winter tires.
I prefer Michelin to Pirelli anyway.
Unless otherwise noted all Volvo incentives are Manufacturer to Dealer.
The AARP incentive in Manufacturer to customer.
The difference is that the customer must sign a form acknowledging the rebate.
(AARP an additional $1000 to existing members)
Since the stock S60R comes with Pirellis and my dealer is offering the winter tire package with Pirellis, I'm not sure where the Volvo recommendation for winter Michelins comes from? Could you add more to that?
And which Michelin winter tire are comparing to which Pirelli winter tire? I'm going to have to live with these winter treads, just want to make sure I make a good decision.
Thanks.
This is for S60 AWD.
We checked carfax and no red flags there. It looks brand new. Any other questions we should be asking?
anyhoo, your best best is to post that question over here to ask Terry the value on that. Make sure to also list the option, color, and your state.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/s80cfc.htm
can't help you with the service light.
edit: oh, wait, try this
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sorry, no diesels for the US market at this time.
Oh, and, yes, if you got another Volvo, they could "roll" the extra mile money into the new car. Would they forget about it completely? Again, you can try for anything when dealing. I'm sure they wouldn't let you walk over a few hundred bucks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If your driving normally, 7500 miles is fine for the oil change interval.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks,
Dallas Texas Owner
As far as the 3500 interval, I've recently come to acknowledge that our old maintenance schedule of every 3K miles is becoming outdated. With the advancement of lubricants and manufacturing it just doesn't make economical sense to change the oil at the same interval on an 2003 auto as on a 1963. Its definitely been a hard fought battle in my mind as I'm sure it is in many others who aren't new to driving and car owning. But, like you said, it is an old argument. Everybody should just do what they are comfortable with (as long as the comfortable level isn't changing it every 50K).
By the way, I always change it at 5K in my s70 with Valvoline 5w30 and it always comes out pretty darned clear (and, relating to what I stated above, MUCH cleaner than it used to in my '78 Mercury Zephyr at 3K mile intervals).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
5w30 seems to be the recommended oil for most new cars. I live in the south where 90+ degree days are the norm during the summer, so I switch to 10w30 during those months.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
We're very impressed with how Volvo changed it's look and enjoy the style, design, safety features, and luxury trimmings (in a Viking sort of way) of the S60, great overall package! This seems like the right place to solicit opinions on reliability of the low pressure turbo 2.5T. How will it hold up over the years?
The plain S60 seems adequate but we messed up and drove the 2.5T first, no turning back now. The rocket-sled T-5 suffers a bit of lag and offers more 'whooshiness' than we feel we need. I can't imagine what 300 ponies of the R would feel like...scared to find out or I'll want one. The 'T' seems to strike the perfect balance of practical available power like a hidden dragon, without that crouching tiger feel of the T-5 (with a short pounce delay).
I remember dad having indestructible Volvos (240 --115K miles with original clutch, 540?- 250K miles, didn't need a clutch except to put it in first) and am now in the a financial position to take the plunge. Even if I had the opportunity before, I didn't like the look of the pre-S70 boxy family trucksters. Is Volvo still that indestructible car company?
I've seen S60 rave reviews/recommendations and horror stories beyond what one would expect from a car with a high quality history, most from the 2001 model year. Recognizing there are first year bugs and quality variances in all vehicles, it appears that Volvo drivers are either having a wide range of opinions and problems, or are just more engaged and vocal about it. Ironic as me asking for more opinions doesn't help.
It's a crowded market segment & tough choice, also considering Lexus ES330, Infiniti G35 sedan, etc. Not considering the Merce' 320 or Beemer 3-series as to equip one like a nicely dressed FWD S60 is out of our price range. We want to replace our 4-cyl '02 Camry (yawn) as it never yearns to be driven; boring yet dependable.
Also, why does it seem the Premium, Sport, and Touring packages aren't available together? Most come with the Comfort instead of Touring package and in FL I don't need heated seats and am not impressed with headlight wipers.
Lastly (thank goodness), can one web savvy first time Volvo buyer expect to coerce a dealer into locating and selling one at or below invoice? If not, what percent off or dollar amount would constitute a good deal (I know hosts will point to Edmunds TMV but is there a 'hidden expect to dealer' rebate too)???
OK, I've rambled enough, please opine (it has nothing to do with trees).
Davant out
'03 Expie 4x2 5.4 EB
'02 Camry (it takes good pictures)
'04 S60 2.5T?
Glad to see that you enjoyed your S60 test drives. Looks like you were able to get behind the wheel of every S60, but the S60R.
Have you driven any of the other vehicles you have on your list? If so how did they compare...
The 2.5T engine: It is a nice balance of power and torque. As a bonus the torque is available at relatively low RPM's for a turbo (1500)....so it fits nicely with US driver expectations. It's like the Goldilocks of the Volvo engines not to hot or too cold... it's 'just right'.
Evidince of this 'just right' factor is that the 2.5T is used by volvo in a LOT of US models (S60 FWD, S60AWD, V70, V70 AWD, XC 70 AWD, XC90 FWD, XC90AWD ) As the vehicles get heavier, the 2.5T becomes the 'base' engine... but will still be servicable. In the S60 you are considering, this is a great choice of engine - one of the lightest US models the 2.5T is in.
Engine reliability - since this current 2.5T (LPT) configuration is one of the newer ones, it's hard to tell. I guess you could look @ the existing T5 High Pressure Turbo engine (HPT originally used in the old 850 Turbo's from the mid 90's ) for an indicator - as there are examples with high miles by now.
Dealer Pricing: I'll leave that to the 'experts', but it depends on how soon you need to buy. Since you are replacing an 02 camry - I would think that time is on your side. So how soon before you need to purchase?
Options & Packages: It get's hard to get exactly what you want without anything 'extra'. There is a possible solution - Overseas Delivery (OSD)
OSD - order the exact car you want for a price less than MSRP, WAIT for your car to be BUILT, take a trip to Sweden ( round trip air included in purchase), pick up your car in Sweden, drive around Europe for up to 15 days, drop off the car , fly home.. wait for car to get ashore... drive car home from dealer.
OSD is a whole post in itself, but the concept is nice. You can check it out on volvo's site & there are a couple of sites on the net to see pricing. Usually base price is less than dealer invoice, but options are at MSRP... so if you only have 1 or 2 options, your OSD total is usually less than Dealer Invoice. DON"T forget destiantion on dealer pricing is included in the price listed for OSD. One word of warning... work with your dealer to
figure out how to make sure you have something to drive between returning home & picking up your new car at the dealer.
Of course dealer rebates passed along to YOU could end up with a total less than OSD. So when you are comparing prices, keep in mind that you have Dealer Invoice, Edmunds TMV, and OSD pricing to compare.
FWIW - I went through a lot of the same research & pricing options for about a year before we purchased a 2003 S60 AWD (with the 2.5T) last spring. We were looking at FWD, but the timing was such that the existing dealer rebate on S60 AWD made up for the savings of OSD and the fact that 2004 models have some scheduled maintence included.
Good luck.
Mat