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Mitsubishi Diamante



  • webjeff2webjeff2 Posts: 21
    Well, let's hope that your 89 Galant continues to be reliable because the newer, manufactured in the USA, Galants are not the most reliable new cars on the market. I have some friends who owned a 00 Galant and Mitsu had to buy it back under the Florida lemon law. These cars, along with the new Eclipses (do they come off the same assembly line?) have an avg. repair record at best. BTW, my friends replaced their Galant with a PT Cruiser which at this time burns 1 quart of oil per 800 miles. I hear that possible future Diamantes (next body style) will be most likely manufactured in the USA, is that true?
  • larson234larson234 Posts: 1
    ... if you like spending outrageous sums of money on mechanical repair. I purchased a 95 AS with 54,000 miles on it in 1999. I just rolled 60K. My drive to work is 25mi each way. Do the math. New brakes (warped rotors) $600, New Transmission $2800, New water pump/timing belt $800, wait while mechanics repaired the bent valves caused by improper installation of timing belt (Quote: "These models are such a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]! It took me all day to replace this #@$#@ belt) 2 weeks, new Air conditioned compressor $1200, dent repair from where I kicked it, $400 (K... that was my fault).

    Never, ever, ever, ever again. Wake up and Drive... to another dealership.
  • dieter73dieter73 Posts: 1
    From my experience with Mitsu Diamante, I can only say that it was the worst automotive mistake of my life, the car was rattling everywhere (near-luxury!), the ride was Oldsmobile-like (very sloppy). The rattle from the glove box nearly drove me nuts... Stay away from Diamante and Mitsubishi in general: INFERIOR.
  • webjeff2webjeff2 Posts: 21
    Several of you mentioned that you own/owned a Diamante "AS", what is that?
  • ucscucsc Posts: 48
    Hi Mr. Vivona,

    My car is due for 30K mile service. I am going to drain the coolant, flush and clean the system and refill it by myself.

    Could you give me some advice about the correct procedure? Which brand of coolant would you recommend? Is there anything I should pay attention to? I am afraid that my clumsy hands would make some damage when flushing the system.


  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    ucsc--First note exactly where the temperature gauge points when the engine is fully heated up. You will need to check this after you are done. To change the coolant, begin with a cold engine and the car on a level surface. Remove the radiator cap. Place a basin under the drain valve and open the valve. When the coolant stops draining, measure the amount you took out.

    Close the drain valve and fill the radiator with water, then open the valve and let it drain out. Keep repeating this procedure until the water that runs out is clear Then close the valve.

    Now you are ready to install new antifreeze. I use Prestone Antifreeze and mix it with purified water in a 50-50 mix. You may want to look on the Prestone container and plan your mix based on the lowest outside temperature you will encounter. The most antifreeze you would want is a 70% mixture. You don't need to actually mix the antifreeze in advance. That is why you measured how much coolant you drained. Let's assume you want a 50-50 mix. For each quart of coolant you initially drained out, you would put in a half of a quart of antifreeze. Once you have poured in the correct amount of antifreeze, you would pour in the correct amount of purified water. When you are done, the coolant should be close to the mix you want. It actually will be a bit less concentrated due to some plain water that may remain during your drain and fill cleanout procedure. Reinstall the radiator cap.

    Remove and empty the overflow tank, clean it out, then make up a mix of antifreeze and purified water in the concentration you used for the radiator. Reinstall and fill the overflow tank to the proper level.

    Now start the car and let it idle for 2 minutes, then shut it off and let it sit for 5 minutes. What you are doing is allowing the trapped air to bleed through a small valve in the thermostat. Feel the radiator, it should still be cool. Open the radiator cap and check the coolant level. If it has gone down, add a enough coolant mix to bring it back up to the neck of the radiator. Tighten the radiator cap and start the engine again and let it idle for 5 minutes, watching the temperature gauge. If the temperature doesn't start to climb, shut of the engine and let it sit for another 5 minutes. There still may be air in the fluid causing the water pump to not be able to move the coolant. Usually by now you will see the temp gauge start to increase and if you turn on the heater, feel warm air starting to come out of the vents. This is a good sign that the coolant is flowing properly. Then go for a drive and see if the temp gauge rises to normal.

    The next day, while the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check the coolant level. Add some if needed. Also check the coolant overflow tank, adding coolant if needed. This is to replace any air that was in the coolant passages.

    Note the temp reading after your engine is fully warmed. It should be the same as before you changed the coolant. If it is lower, you may have damaged the thermostat during the initial warmup after changing the coolant (it happens). In that case, you should replace the thermostat with a new part from your dealer's parts department. Running an engine colder than normal will sludge it up and accelerate wear.

    Mr. Vivona
  • kcanmkcanm Posts: 1
    I want to buy a LS 1999 Diamante. The price at this time is 19,912. Is this a good deal. All power, leather interior (beautiful),keyless entry, moon roof, and has 26,000 miles.
  • ccancioccancio Posts: 91
    I bought my 1999 Diamante 11 months ago for $19K and that is with 5000 miles. So its not really a good deal as it stands.

    Check with Kelly Blue book and judge what is a fair price from there.I suggest $16-$17K for the vehicle or look at purchasing a 2000 model for the price as it would still have greater part of the 3 year warranty left than the 1999.

  • Does anyone know where the idle speed control motor is on the 92-96 SOHC ES engine? If you could point me in the right direction, I'd be grateful. Thanks!
  • yuyayuya Posts: 1
    Hi. I'm happy that I found this community board.
    I'm looking for car now and I found this 1997 D ES at the dealer.
    It's fully loaded with sunroof, leather, CD, and ABS, I believe.
    I can get this with $8500 but it has high miles, 127,000 miles. I ran through and seemed it's clean record.
    I spent 2,3 hrs to review those messages on this board and it sounds like D is almost reliable car. I know 127k miles is alot. Previous owner probably drove 100 miles/day.
    I dont mind to spend another $1000-2000 to fix the problems if there are any.
    What do you think about this deal? Is this too much miles for used car? I'll appreciate any comments from you guys. thanks.

  • abesabes Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a Diamante AS with 129,000 miles at $4300. This car is in immaculate condition and has been very well cared for. I do, however have a couple of questions. After I brought the car home, I cleaned the battery because there was acid all over it. No problems, the car started fine. However, that night the car stalled numerous times. It would start right back up and everything ( lights, radio, AC ) stayed on. I checked the terminals, and they were fine. I came to the conclusion that it could have not been the battery, alternator, or wires. I did however notice that when I test drove the car, and drove it home the AC was blasted every time. When the car was stalling on me, the idle would drop down very low and stall out. I know the having the AC on in these cars makes the idle higher. Im wondering if the previous owner was blasting the AC to keep the car running. When the car stalled on me, I had the defrost on(foggy windows). The car has run fine since, I even drove it with the defrost on and it didn't stall once. From reading past messages the people on these forums are very knowledgeable about Diamantes. Any possible explanations would be greatly appreciated.
    The other question I have is do these cars burn alot of oil? The car does not smoke or anything, but I noticed the oil was very low. I put 3 quarts in, but have not checked the oil in 2 days. These questions if answered would help me out. My dilema is that I still have the 30-day lemon law, but i do not want to give this car back( i am in love with it already), but i will if this is a sign of things to come. I am 21, in college and need a reliable car, not a problem trap. Please answer soon, thank you very much.
  • ucscucsc Posts: 48
    Hi Abes,

    Sorry to know you have trouble with Diamante. I have a 92 D LS, and I am also a student and I had dilema similar to yous.

    My car is also in immaculate condition and has been very well cared for. Previous owner has all service/repair records. He did details on the car twice a year ... The paint is very good, leather seats are in good condition. I loved it.

    BUT it is not very reliable and repair is very expensive. I bought it last Oct. I have been to dealer twice, and spent $1450! Accroding to the service record of previous owner, he went to dealer to almost every three months to repair AC, brake, alarm system, moon roof ... and spent thousands of $ already. When I brought the car to dealer, everyone recognized it.

  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    abes -- I assume you disconnected the battery cable when cleaning the corrosion. Anytime you disconnect the battery cables the engine computer loses its memory of the correct setting and reverts to the default settings. The default setting doesn't take into consideration the carbon buildup around the throttle. Over time, the computer can relearn the settings. If the engine continues to stumble, check out my article at

    As to oil consumption, any car with 129,000 miles on it will use some oil. Also, nine year old car has a lot of years of heat that has probably hardened some seals and gaskets, so there can be a bit of oil leakage. If you are at 800-1000 miles per quart, I wouldn't worry about it except to keep up with checking the oil and don't let it run low.

    Overall, the Diamante is a reliable car. During the years that it was reported on in Consumer Reports and Carpoint it had a very good record. A lot depends on the quality of the mechanics that work on it. Even the most reliable car can be ruined by improper shop procedure.

    Mr. Vivona

  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    The Diamante has definite brake problems based upon the following facts. On My 98D at:
    1) 31,000 miles the front brakes pads were replaced and rotors turned due to severe vibrations upon brake application, especially at higher speeds.
    2) 35,000 miles the front rotors needed to be turned again due to vibrations and the rear rotors turned too.
    3) 45,000 miles the front required NEW rotors. Vibration set in and the rotors were to thin to turn again.
    4) 65,000 miles the front and rear pads needed to be replaced and all rotors turned due to vibrations. I expect I'll have another turning of the front rotors in 3,000 miles; I'll let you know.

    All work was performed by the dealer. An on-caliper brake lathe was used, the wheels torqued to 80 ft/lbs and runout was checked at my request. Most all driving was highway and not stop and go. This same thing happened with my 92D.
    I tried to post this on the "Brake Problem" link, but it hasn't accepted new posts for some time. It would be nice if Mitsubishi fixed this problem as the rest of the car has been virtually flawless. Unfortunately, since Mitsubishi appears to be ignoring this critical issue, my next car will probably be an ACURA. I would not be surprised if the Diamanti were discontinued due to low demand and was replaced by the Galant. This would be unfortunate, but it appears inevitable.
  • ccancioccancio Posts: 91
    > I would not be surprised if the Diamanti were
    > discontinued due to low demand and was replaced
    > by the Galant. This would be unfortunate, but
    > it appears inevitable.

    If you make such a blatant statement... try to substantiate it with some factual numbers and references ...

    I don't believe your assertions derived from your keen insights and observations in your little "neck of the woods" do not quite make it the ultimate authority on the sales performance of the D' nor its mechanical worthyness.

    As for me and my 99 D' has 21K miles now and no problems with any vibration or brakes.

    Ohhh boy can't wait till I reach 31K miles to see what happens!!! ;-)

  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    camon -- I just turned 20,000 miles on my 1999 Diamante and the brakes are still perfect.

    If the runout was properly checked and found to be at or near zero and the lugs were torqued using the proper procedure (i.e. not after an impact wench was used) then I wonder if you have a problem with the surface of the alloy wheels that mates with the hub. If the wheel surface had excessive runout, that could be transferred to the hub and rotor. Try checking the rotor runout with the wheel mounted and lug nuts tightened. You will have to drill a small hole in the rotor backing shield to gain access for the dial indicator, but if you find that the runout is okay with the wheel off and excessive with the wheel mounted, that would point to a problem with the wheel, or possibly the mounting surface of the hub.

    As to the Diamante's future, the last I heard is that Mitsubishi will increase imports to the USA by 20-30% in 2002, with some of this increase due to sales to AVIS for rental use. There also is a sport version expected for 2002, with more horsepower, etc.

    Mr. Vivona
  • fc4cmbfc4cmb Posts: 2
    I purchased a 99 Diamante fully loaded with traction control. Shortly after I passed 36k miles and my warranty ran out I started experiencing problems with the transmission. When I am on the highway moving at 60 mph or better and I coast for a moment and then return my foot to the pedal I lose all power, the engine is still running but there is no increase in rpm when I step on the pedal. This lasts for a few seconds and then the transmission kicks back in. I've had the car to the dealer, they replaced a vacuum line or module and that cleared the problem for a while. Now it is 3 months later and the problem is back. Does anyone have a similar experience or advice? Please help if you can.
  • cyclone1cyclone1 Posts: 2
    I have a '97 Diamante LS. I just discovered a piece of plastic hanging down under the front of the car. It's a shield which attaches to the bottom of the front bumper, on both sides, and in the middle a bit further back. There is a part number "MR264214" stamped on it. Can I get one of these from anyone other than the dealer? What is this called?


  • ccancioccancio Posts: 91
    gregory scrydloff

    FYI taken from the Mitsi. website...

    Any transmission problem comes under the 5 year/ 60,000 mile powertrain warranty.

    Mitsubishi comes with extensive coverage to ensure your satisfaction, including a 3-year/36,000-mile New Vehicle Limited Warranty; a 5-year/60,000-mile Powertrain Limited Warranty; and a 7-year/100,000-mile Anti-Corrosion/Perforation Limited Warranty.

  • fc4cmbfc4cmb Posts: 2
    I was charged back in Feb 2001 when I brought my car in the first time. I spoke with them today and was told some parts are covered and others are not. I still have lose of power and my traction control light on the dash begins to blink on occasion. The loss of power is intermitent. If anyone has a good suggestion short of selling this car, please advise. See message 437.
  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    My observation came from the: lack of volume of sales on the Diamanti; the fact that certain Diamanti parts are being discontinued such as the oil filters for the 98D (it has been replaced by the smaller Gallant filter), dealers have begun using aftermarket parts on the D's( now including brake rotors); and the fact I read in last month's Popular Science that the Nissan Maxima was being discontinued in favor of the Altima(that too is very hard for me to believe).

    You may not have brake problems now, but shortly after you have your first brake job you are going to be in for a rude awakening. All of the brake work I mentioned happened in the span of 18 months. I've driven D's for in excess of 260,000 miles and have personally owned 2 and have had the problem with both. Just give yourself a little more time, you may be posting the same message. I hope not, but really something needs to be done with the brakes. I've been extremely fortunate with my transmissions. Others have had problems and I guess I've been lucky. I hope we are all lucky in getting Mitsubishi to address the problems so that we can continue to buy D's. As I said, I love the car, but for the brakes.
  • I recently purchase a 92LS with 79k. Edmund's indicates the gas tank as being 19 gallons, however when I top my car off I get nowhere near that amount of fuel(about 13.5 is all it takes). Is edmunds incorrect or does my car have a replacement fuel tank? And yes, I am measuring my refuels from E. TIA
  • ucscucsc Posts: 48

    I also don't believe the gas tank is 19 gallons. I drove my car 20 miles after the red gas warning light was on and I could only pump in 15.3 gallons.

  • ccancioccancio Posts: 91
    There are not many cars that have super accurate gas gauges.

    A lot of it also has to do with the ambient temperature at the time. If its a hot summers day you gas warning light might come on sooner than if it was cold night.

    In any case, to make sure you never run out of gas while driving you should know the average miles you can achieve with a full tank of gas.

    I usually achieve 330 miles in part city and part highway driving when the gas warning light comes on. When I fill up it tends to be around the 15 gallon mark. I then know that I still have more or less 4 gallons in reserve.

    Using the indicated conservative gas consumption of 18 miles /gallon for the 1999 'D' I then know that I have more or less 70 miles before my car sputters dead. So I can guesstimate how many gas stations I can skip before I'm forced to do a refueling stop.

  • ucscucsc Posts: 48

    Has anyone added more than 18 gallon of gas to D?

  • timtrantimtran Posts: 29
    Car experts recommend that you not wait for the gas tank to be completely empty, because the low level in the tank will cause the fuel pump to overheat and fail prematurely. Although I had put in 15.6 gallons at one time, I try not to drive the car when the "empty" light goes on.
    Better safe than sorry.
  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    If the tank is 19 gallons it contains about 1.5 gallons of unusable fuel that the pump can't get to in my experience on a 98D. I treat my tank as a 17.5 gallon tank.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    If pressing on the pedal does not result in an increase in RPM, then the problem is not your transmission. If the transmission was slipping, RPM's would increase without an increase in MPH. So, if the RPM's do not increase, I would suspect that your traction control has a problem. Traction control cuts engine power when wheel spin is detected. If you had a bad sensor or traction control computer, pressing on the pedal may activate the traction control when it shouldn't. Try turning off your traction control and seeing if the problem persists. There also could be engine control and sensor issues that could cause a temporary loss of power. Have the engine computer read for error codes.

    Now, if you really meant that there is no increase in MPH when you press on the gas, but there is an increase in RPM, then you do have a transmission issue. Only a full check of the electrical and hydraulic systems can tell you if your problem is related to the computer, the hyduaulics or an internal mechanical problem. Have the transmission computer read for error codes.

    Read your owner's manual for the specifics of what is covered under the powertrain warranty. Do not take the dealer's word for it. Call Mitsubishi customer service for clarification of the warrant coverage terms.

    So which is it? Does the RPM or MPH not increase when you try to acclerate?

    Mr. Vivona
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    The broken shield is probably your stone shield that goes between the bumper and the crossmember. It can get ripped free by a higher than normal parking bumper. First see if you can reattach it with the fasteners. If you have lost some of the fasteners, get replacement ones from the dealer. If the shield is too damaged to reuse, price one from the dealer's parts department. If the price is too much, you can save about 25% from

    Mr. Vivona
  • mkcmkc Posts: 20
    Just wondering if anyone has info on the various Mitsu trouble codes. My '93 D developed a warm-engine idle problem yesterday - basically, it won't idle but rather stalls out once the engine warms up. It restarts, but dies without outside (gas pedal) assistance. If you can get it into gear and depress the gas pedal quickly enough, it will drive fine - no apparent hesitation, stumbling, etc.

    Note that the "check engine light" does NOT come on when it stalls, or even while it's dying, and the bulb does light when you first start, so it's not burned out. The D was towed to the dealer this AM, but yesterday I found the code-retrieval procedure on the web, and would like to know what the following multiple codes (assuming we measured them correctly) might imply when "combined", while I wait to hear from the dealer on their findings:

    13 - Air intake temp sensor fault
    25 - Barometric pressure sensor fault
    31 - Knock sensor fault

    Plugs, wires, fuel, air filters all changed and fuel injectors cleaned 3K miles ago; 1/2 through a tank of 93-octane gas.


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