Referencing post # 150 from Vivona, I am having a noise problem from the Eagle GA tires. They now have 9500 miles on them. I didn't notice the noise until the first tire rotation at 6000 miles. Unlike your problem, there is NO vibration at all, at any speed, or when I apply brakes. When I reach 45 to 60 mph it starts as a " wop wop wop " noise like something that is warped or irregular. As speed increases it turns into a constant roar. I don't get near this much noise from my very cheap pick up truck tires. Has anyone else had this experience? Does anyone have any ideas. I would like to have some advance ammunition before talk to the dealer so I can readily rebut his standard BS line of " oh there's nothing wrong they all sound that way"
sigmon--I notice my tire noise the most when traveling on a very smooth asphalt surface when the car should have zero road noise. But instead of silence, I hear the thrumming noise (I can't call it "wop wop wop" with a name like Vivona!)
I cannot see obvious irregularity in the tread, but I placed a clean sheet of paper in front of each tire and slowly drove over them, then inspected the resulting pattern left on the paper. I could see some variation in the imprint left by the outside segments. Every other segment left a lighter mark than the ones in between. I suspect that the noise is either coming from the irregular tread wear or internal belt rippling.
You won't get much help from the dealer, the tires are covered under a Goodyear warranty, not Mitsubishi (a very common arrangement for any make of car). Look through your owner's manual and materials for a Goodyear warranty paper. Or go to a Goodyear tire dealer and see if they will replace them for what they call "road disturbance" problems. You may have to pay some prorated amount for use, or maybe you'll get free replacements. Look over the tire warranty and hold them to the terms.
I have thought about doing the same, but I really would prefer to get away from Goodyear's altogether, so I am just enduring the noise until they wear out...for now.
The black filter mounted on the top of the transmission is indeed the transmission filter. It is a spin-on type similar in design to an oil filter, but only use an exact replacement.
It is handier to replace than the one that requires you to drop the pan and remove bolts.
Just wanted to warn any would be DIY's that the Fram brand oil filter (PN#7317) is about 10-20% smaller the the original Mitsubishi part so probably less oil flow through is possible. Besides it was harder for my oil wrench to grip the smaller oil filter.
The oil pan drain nut has a rubber 'O' ring rather than the usual metal washer...hmmm. Better buy one for the next change just in case.
It might just be worth spending the little extra to buy the original part. I paid $7.70 all up for the more expensive Fram Toughguard series. I just didn't want to drive 20 miles to my nearest Mitsubishi dealer just for an oil filter (...next time).
Also installed my new Pioneer TS-a6999 speakers on my "D" over the weekend. Overall I like the quality and no longer get the distortion on the bass.
I usually buy six of each at time to make the trip worthwhile.
As to the oil drain plug. Make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten it to 29 ft. lbs. to assure it is tight enough, but not too tight. Always use a new O-ring with each oil change.
Hi, I am new to this site and wish to thank everyone for all the helpful posts. I purchased a 2001 Diamante LS and 2001 Montero Sport XLS last Sunday. As hard as I try, I can't find anything to complain about! However, I do have 2 questions:
When I turn on the auto climate control on the D, it seems like I get mostly cold air and no heat. I have to crank it up to 78 or 80 before I get any substantial heat. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
I have been putting 93 octane in the D. Should I continue this or can I use mid grade or 87 octane. I have seen posts about loss of performance but I don't really know what this means.
I'm the proud owner of a 2000 Black Mitsu D. I have to say, I love my car. Even with Edmunds bad review. I took it today for the first 3000 mile oil change at the dealer. I even got a free wash to boot. It made me feel good when the service people told me I made a great choice in a vehicle. The bottom line with the D is you have to keep the oil and transmission changed and serviced and the D will give you miles and miles of pure pleasure. He told me the story of the old guy who has over 300,000 miles on his D but he religiously brings it in for the oil change and minor service. They also talked about the brake issue and said that Mitsubishi cars in general was sensitive to hard braking and rotors warped easily. The D was not so bad but the Galant was horrendous. The whole service experience was great. If anyone needs good dealer service on their D in the Southern California area contact Dynamic Mitsubishi in Pomona California. They are great.
Met you at the other Diamante Owners Group Site. Keep up the good work. These cars are great. Everyone tells me how good it looks. And the drive, man oh man. I love to get around slow-driving people. My baby accelarates like a dream.
My 2000 does that too with the auto climate control. Also did you know that the 2001 has 205 hp as opposed to the 210 on previous models? Does that actually mean anything.
I took the car to the dealer yesterday afternoon to ask about the cold air/heat problem. Turns out that I have been using it with the A/C on. I never knew what that little snowflake/star in the middle of the climate control display screen was! Anyway, once I turned off the A/C, the heat came on as expected. Don't know much about 205 vs. 210 hp. I assume that it does not make a lot of difference though.
dkrazy, I also have had very good service experiences @ Dynamic Mitsu in Pomona and highly recommend it. 70,000 mile update: No further brake problems. Runs solid as the day I bought it. Not a squeek, rattle or noise anywhere. Still a great strong freeway cruiser for the commute. Still a classic, beautiful and unique looking car if you don't want a "Me-too" car.
I ran into (figuratively) a Diamante-owning friend recently. I noticed he was now driving an Acura RL. I said, hey, what happened to your 93 Diamante? He said it was at 180,000 miles when someone ran into him (literally) and totaled it. He said he never had any mechanical problems with the car in all the 180,000 miles. I asked about brakes and he said, "never had a problem beyond normal pad replacement".
I asked him why he now had an Acura RL. He said he wanted to try a larger car. This guy is very big (his name is Mac...we call him "Big Mac"). So, how do you like the Acura? He says "It's okay, but I liked the Diamante much better and will go back to a Diamante next time!"
He summed up his opinion of his Diamante as "The best car I have ever owned."
Whoever buys a car for prestige has some real personal issues.
Also Twoof1 you must live in or near the Inland Empire. I had a great experience with Dynamic there. I wish I had bought my car from them. (Riverside ugh) I will get my next D from them. I even had the guys trying to help me figure out what rims off other vehicles (Eclipse,Galant) would look good on my car. I have the ES. Hate those covers. I definitely have to get the LS next time.
NormanBates- You're right. Maybe I should have read the manual more thoroughly. I just read it for the air.
I told the service manager at the dealer about the Edmunds review of the Galant and the Diamante. He laughed and said just be glad you didn't buy it.He said he would never buy the Galant over the Diamante.
I had read the review of the D and the Galant and I was all ready to purchase the Galant. I had my Edmunds review all printed out with pricing information and specs. I got to the dealer saw the D and totally changed my mind. Mr.V I understand you wrote Edmunds a letter regarding their review. Good Going.
twoof what year is your D? Mr. V I know yours is a 99.
Also, Everyone post your review of your D at carreview dot.com
I purchased a new 2000 LS, Franklin Silver with the all weather package in June. My wife and I leased 2 Galants prior to the D and never did a thing to the cars except change the oil. That experience helped me with the decision to buy the Diamante.
I absolutely love the car. I've changed the oil twice and rotated the tires, insisting on hand tightening of the lugs(I personally observed). I also added factory mud guards and a wind deflector to the sun roof. The car has performed flawlessly and is a pure pleasure to drive.
This car is very unique, I do a lot of driving for my job and rarely see the it on the road. Everyone who has rode in the car raves about the styling and comfort. My Dad owns a Chrysler LHS, a beautiful car, but does not have the quality in workmanship and comfort of the Diamante (my opinion). My personal favorite option is the heated seats! I'm looking forward to driving this winter in total comfort.
I will post again at 15K with an "honest" update on overall satisfaction. My rating at 7,500 miles is a 9 out of 10.
When I traded in my '00 Diamante, I felt a sense of relief. It is like someone took a burden off my shoulders, a burden with poorly fitting body parts. I got a Nissan Maxima and its quality is far superior to the Mitsubishi....
I will NEVER even consider Diamante (or any other Mitsubishi) again.
You weren't happy with your D. As you can see most of us here are. Hope you have a better experience with your Maxima. BTW shouldn't you be raving about it on the Maxima boards. Just a thought.
I just visited the Maxima boards. Seems to me there are just as many complaints about Squeaks,rattles,gear shifting, warped rotors for them too. The grass always looks greener on the other side.
I used Mobile 1 10w-30 in my 92D from the first oil change at 3,000 miles to 198,000 miles, changing it and the filter every 7,500 miles of highway driving. Other than a minor oil leak on one head gasket developing at 80,000 miles (which I did not have serviced), the engine ran fine and did not burn any oil. I am using the same oil in my 98D but changing it every 5,000 since I do more city driving now.
I leased a 1998 diamante in aug of 98 and have been very pleased with it. The acceleration is good and handling if very good also. Several other people have ridden in it and have ended up purchasing or leasing one. The leather seats still smell like leather! I have about a year to go on the lease. I did have to have brake rotors replaced after a few months under warrenty. It runs well with midrange gasoline.
Since there is a lot of talk about whether to follow Mitsubishi's recommendation of using Premium gasoline or use lower octane.
Have you ever or do you have an easy means to test using the different grades of fuel and run a "D" on a dyno to see the performance difference on the 3.5 litre engine?
The Diamante engine is tuned for premium fuel. If you use a lower grade, the fuel will pre-ignite, causing what is commonly called predetonation or pinging. A predetonation sensor will detect the pinging noise and retard the ignition. That will lower the engine's octane requirement, but also lower the performance somewhat.
As to how much you lose in performance...I have not seen any test results. You could find a deserted area of road to run some 0-60 tests on. Run it several times with a full tank of premium and average your times. Wait until you are almost at empty and fill up next time with regular and run the 0-60 test will the full tank. You want to have a full tank both times to keep the weight the same. Don't bring passengers or fill the trunk on either test run or that will throw off the comparison. Also make sure your tire pressures are the same for both tests.
Though this is not as scientific as an immediate comparison using separate fuel containers with a flow switch, it will give you a fair representation of the difference.
I opt for just using premium. The difference in cost per year is only about $120, or about $2.30 per week. That expense certainly won't change anybody's lifestyle. At least anybody that owns a Diamante.
The temperature display resets to the inside setting each time you start the car, so you can't make it stay on outside temperature. If the outside temperature goes below freezing, the display will automatically switch to outside to warn you of possible ice conditions.
If you turn off the snowflake, you are turning off the compressor. Heat will come on sooner with the compressor off. If you leave it in auto and set the temperature where you want it, the system will automatically set the airflow, vents and air temperature. You have to give it time to sense the return air to be able to provide the correct outflow of air.
The doors cannot normally be made to lock automatically. Conceivably, one could develop a circuit that would sense the placement in drive and provide a contact closure for the locking system. I just make it a normal part of my routine to push the lock button when I close the door. Works for me.
The back lights can be turned on with a switch immediately behind each light. To get all inside lights to come on, you could install a small switch somewhere convenient and tie it to the door light switch. The lighting system will then "think" you had opened a door when you push the added switch.
To Mr. Vivona About those Goodyear Eagle GA's we both hate! I went to the local authorized Goodyear dealer with my noise problem. Come to find out, my car is way out of alignment. I asked how this could be since the car is only one year old. His response was that they sometimes come into the Mitsu dealer that way. Transportation people sometimes tie down one side of the car much tighter than the other for long periods of time while being transported. He said this was a common problem with all makes. After examining the tires he said they looked as if the car had been out of alignment for a long time. He checked the alignment & found only the right side wheels were out. After a long discussion, he called the local Mitsu dealer's service mgr. & discussed the problem. I don't know what all was said but the Goodyear dealer admitted that part of the problem could have come from the tire. What is important here for everyone to know is that your Mitsu warranty covers wheel alignment for the first 12,000 miles or 12 months. My car was 14 months old but only had 10500 miles. After letting the Mitsu dealer know in no uncertain terms that I was not going to just let this issue drop, he agreed to work with the Goodyear dealer. So to make a long story short, between the two of them they gave me a 60% prorated credit on the tires, and paid for my four wheel alignment. Today I bought Michelin Symmetry tires. After only a few short miles of driving on them, I feel like I own an even more refined vehicle. There is no comparison between the two in noise level even when the Goodyears were new. It is also a more comfortable riding tire. A little advice for everyone out there who would like to improve the ride & noise level in your Diamante, get rid of the Goodyears! I am not a fan of any brand of Performance tire or Touring tire. I have never owned one that is quiet or comfortable. For the life of me, I can't understand why Mitsu would put a V rated or any kind of performance tire on this car. This car is classified as a " Near Luxury " car. There is nothing luxurious about performance tires. If you are having a tire problem with the original Goodyears on your Diamante, my advice is to be persistent with your Mitsu dealer & a local Goodyear dealer. It worked for me.
Hello.....I am seriously considering buying a 2001 Diamante. I have been reading the threads here and other reviews from Consumer Reports to Edmunds. All the reviews I have read have been completely different. Several of the reports I read said depreciation was very high on this car. I am very interested in hearing from actual owners as to whether or not you are happy with your Diamante and whether or not you believe it is a good buy.
Every once in a while people such as yourself posts this questions.
Unfortunately this question opens huge can of worms. Especially to some who have made it their sworn, fanatic duty to destroy the Diamante model line (if not the entire Mitsubishi brand).
If you are really serious, it would be best that you read all the historical postings in this thread as well as the Diamante II thread.
I cannot imagine that the answers you get now will deviate from the answers 3 - 4 months ago when this topic was hotly debated.
Unlike the presidential election in Florida, bear in mind that the users in this type of discussion group can easily masquerade as different people with ease. So take this into accoount when deciding who has more votes....otherwise you'll surely hear from good 'ole Bohlen and Maury2 (...but not necessarily with those ID's).
I am new to this topic, and as I indicated in my prior posting a few days ago, I absolutely hated my Diamante and was happy to trade it in for a new Nissan Maxima. In my sincere opinion, Diamante is a poorly constructed automobile which does not hold its value well. I am not going to list all problems I had with a car, but dashboard and window rattles, and rough idle come to mind. I think if you spend $25K (or more) on a new near-luxury car, you are better off buying something else. I would recomment Acura TL, Nissan Maxima or Infinity I30. Diamante just doesn't make the cut.
I drive a 99 Galant ES, I took my car to the dealer to let them know about some vibration that I feel in the steering wheel between 70-80 mph ( not while braking ), first they thought it was the tire balance (tried the balancing did not work), then I showed them that there was a recall on my steering wheel box, first they didn't know of any recall, but when I asked them to run the VIN#, they found the recall, they looked at the car they said every thing is Ok with the box, but my vibration could be to a defect in the tires, well, last week I went a head and replaced all my tires with new tires, and the car is still has the vibration between 70-80 mph, does anyone have any ideas what is causing this vibration, (I don't want to keep on buying stuff for the car that It don't need), could a warped rotor (that a lot of people are talking about)cause this vibration.
Not too long ago I purchased a 2000 Diamante. A day later I "discovered" this board and was quite concerned that I made a bad purchase.
A few of the members reassured me and I going to try the same.
I have two cars. The Diamante and a MB SLK320. I drive the SLK320 during the week and the Diamante on the weekends (I have to drive a lot on the weekends - 500 miles. Before I purchased I test drove a lot of cars
BMW 525, MB C-class and E-class. The Jag S-type. I was about to purchase a 525 when I was driving home from work and saw a car with the Mitsubisi logo that I though was very sharp looking. So I stopped by a dealer and found model of car that I saw - a "D" LS. I enjoyed the looks of the car, inside and out so I test drove one. The car drives as good as the E-class or S-type sedan. While the car does not have the prestige of the other cars it does cost about 15,000 less. After a month of owning the car I am glad I purchased it and so far have not had any problems. However, there are somethings I wish for
Wood on steering wheel and shifter
Better lighting in the cabin at night. For instance, the door locks button is not lit
I have had my Diamante for almost two years now and it has been excellent. No body parts out of alignment, no rattles, no mechanical failures. The only two issues I had were glazed brake pads that were replaced a year ago and no problems since then, and Goodyear tires that vibrated until properly balanced.
The brake pads got glazed by a panic stop when the car was new. That is no fault of the car, any new car can glaze the pads if you panic stop. Glazed pads make a groaning noise just before stopping. The replacement pads have been excellent.
The vibration came from the Goodyear tires. On a car with low unsprung weight (luxury cars, sports cars) some tires need to be balanced with a force variance balancer (Hunter GSP9700). Regular balancing won't work. Mitsubishi took care of everything. No problems since, except the Goodyears are running a bit noisy. I will change them out for Michelins later on.
I consider these two issues as minor and not unusual. They certainly do not indicate any reliability issues for the Diamante.
I made my choice of Diamante based on reading many reviews, checking out every car in the entry luxury field, and talking to six owners with mileage up to 180,000 miles without problems. I would put much faith in the Edmunds or Consumer Reports reviews. I have written extensive rebuttals of both articles that I would be glad to repeat here if you want. Point is, the articles were subjective. I go by my own preferences, not those of journalists.
Drive the car yourself. If you like it, buy it. Don't get caught up in other's opinions, you are the one that has to live with the car.
A regular wheel balance will not get rid of vibration caused by a bent wheel or uneven sidewall stiffness. Have the tires balanced by a Hunter GSP9700. Check this out at:
Click on "Locate a GSP9700" to find a shop near you. If you are under 12,000 miles, the car warranty should pay for the balancing. Ask Mitsubishi to pay for the work. If the GSP9700 finds your tires to be defective, have them replaced under the tire warranty.
The GSP9700 balances down to a certain number of pounds of "road force variance" while pressing a 700 pound roller against the tread. You want the final number to be under 10 pounds. Many shops will balance to under 20 pounds, but on a car with low unsprung weight, you will feel vibration unless you get it under 10 pounds. Ask the tire mechanic to write the final number on the inner sidewall so you can check it.
Also, MAKE SURE they remove and replace the wheels only using hand tools, not an air impact wrench. And they should tighten the lugs to no more than 80 ft. lbs. with a hand torque wrench, or you will be asking for brake problems later on. This is true of any car, not just the Galant.
Not too long ago I purchased a 2000 Diamante. A day later I "discovered" this board and was quite concerned that I made a bad purchase.
A few of the members reassured me and I going to try the same.
I have two cars. The Diamante and a MB SLK320. I drive the SLK320 during the week and the Diamante on the weekends (I have to drive a lot on the weekends - 500 miles. Before I purchased I test drove a lot of cars
BMW 525, MB C-class and E-class. The Jag S-type. I was about to purchase a 525 when I was driving home from work and saw a car with the Mitsubisi logo that I though was very sharp looking. So I stopped by a dealer and found model of car that I saw - a "D" LS. I enjoyed the looks of the car, inside and out so I test drove one. The car drives as good as the E-class or S-type sedan. While the car does not have the prestige of the other cars it does cost about 15,000 less. After a month of owning the car I am glad I purchased it and so far have not had any problems. However, there are somethings I wish for
Wood on steering wheel and shifter
Better lighting in the cabin at night. For instance, the door locks button is not lit
I am in the market for an older D(93-95) because I am tired of my wife calling me and telling me her Ford has left her somewhere. I have found a 94 ES with 74K on it. Does anyone have any feedback on any of these year models, and anything I should be on the lookout for? After reading most of these posts it seems to be a pretty reliable vehicle, and that is my main concern.
I purchased a 2001 Diamante LS and so far I don't have any complaints except for the bad service at the car dealership. Basically, there were cosmetic issues with the car paint. After the so called "free" detailing from the dealer, I noticed swirl marks on the clearcoat paint, that could only mean they improperly used a buffer. I complained to the dealer, but the service manager "claims" that they don't have a buffer. After spending another $300 dollars at a detailing professional, all the cosmetic issues were fixed. I felt like I was left in the cold once I finalized the purchase.
BUT, I love the car! I just hate the dealer. Any suggestions of better dealers in the San Jose CA area?
I've got a 93 D. wgn with 86K trouble free miles. Suspension is needing some attention, the ride is getting a bit rough. Two shops (Goodyear, Firestone) have recommended I replace the struts. Rotors are at minimum specs so they will be due for replacement soon. Interior overhead lights are not coming on, fuse is ok. I get 18 mpg around town, and 25-28 mpg on trips. The D. has been a great car, nothing repaired out of warranty except a battery.
Any recommendations on suspension and rotor replacement parts? I did read about the Powerslot rotors from a previous poster.
I previously got the wrong info. The door speakers are 6"1/2 oversized or 6"3/4. The door panel is attached to the frame by three screws (forward vent, door lock lever, door handle/arm rest) and 8 push-in plastic retainers around the periphery. First, pull the tweeter cover out, then unscrew the tweeter assembly to get it out of the way. Remove the three aforementioned screws, pry the remote control switch panel up, disconnect the wiring harness. Pull the door panel by grabbing the lower edge at the bottom recess, and disconnect the door light assembly. Remove the factory speakers, the holes of the 6"3/4 aftermarket ones should line up with the existing holes. My Boston Acoustics speakers are 6"1/2, and I had to use braces. Since you had Pioneer rear speakers, the obvious choice is Pioneer front speakers which fortunately come in 6"3/4. Reverse the process to put things back together. The factory tweeters were inefficient, so I just left them alone. They would not impair the sound quality. The project is fairly easy and takes about a couple of hours. Good luck to you and enjoy the improved sound.
Having read through quite a few of the discussions here, thought I'd add my 2 cents: I bought a 1999 Diamante in August of 99. The car has 17,500 on it and I have been generally pleased. 1) Experienced what is known as "rail dust". Painstaking in its removal from my otherwise beautiful Pearl color. 2) Drivers door armrest broke. 3) Vibration developed at 12K traced to "tread deviation" from OE Yoko tires. Replaced with AVID H4 (Yoko paid 65%).
The Diamante has proved to be a fairly enjoyable automobile. I kind of wish I paid more for an LS version - miss leather. I am presently looking to upgrade audio and purchase for spring a Tire/Wheel package. For the money - (I paid 23,500, and after audio/wheel upgrades, 25,000,) I find the "D" a wise buy with looks that one can't find for much under 32,000. I'll be asking the forum for help on the audio (thanks Vivona and C) when I get ready for purchase. Look forward to everyone's insightful and information posts!
I bought my 97 "D" (or POS as I affectionately call it) and one off the reasonns I got it was that for the price, having mem seats is great (my wife is 5'1", I'm 6'0).
Of course AFTER I got it home did I realize the key has to be in the ignition (and the car in park) before the seats will move. HOw idiotic is that. As a result, I now have mem seats I don't use.
Curious if anyone else is annoyed with this. Vivona = please don't tell me it's a safety issue!
First program your seat with your "OWN" designated key in the ignition.
Then in future... Each time you unlock the car with your remote control the seats go into that same position.
Your wife will also have to memory position the seat with her "own" key in the ignotion so when she unlocks the car with the her remote it will automatically change to her fit.
This works on my 1999 "D" I don't know about the 1997.
Unfortunately my 97 doesn't have a keyless entry. You bring up a good point though - anyone konw if this can be added (keyless entry w/ mem seat) to a 97?
I purchased my 94 new and now have 128K on it with only minor problems (namely brake related). Am now using Edmunds as legwork in searching for a new vehicle. Can't say I was real thrilled by the conclusion they came to in their write-up. Even though I'm happy with my Diamante I'm thinking of upgrading a notch to the next level (was thinking Audi A6) but now sure the bang for the buck is there.
The front wheels on my '97 LS with just under 60K miles "creak" when I have the wheels turned sharply (such as when parking), or when going over an incline slowly (such as entering a driveway). Before I take her in for my 60K check-up, what is this likely caused by? What should I say to the dealer to help them diagnose without padding any necessary repairs?
Hi - I am thinking of purchasing a 1997 Diamante LS model. It seems to be in good condition at this point but I'd like to check with others who may own a 97 model to get their responses. I had a 92 model, which gave me no problems. When it was wrecked, and totaled, it had almost 125,000 on it. The car looks and drives great, but I don't want to be stuck with a lemon car for the next few years. It's fully loaded and they were asking $18,995. However, I got them to accept $16,500 with all fees included. Again, it's a 1997 ls model with 25,357 milse on it. Should I get this car??????
I keep hearing that the Diamante is floaty at high speeds. What does that mean. I drive from 85-90 miles per hour sometimes without even realizing it when the road is clear and have no problems with the handling. This is amazing because in my previous car I thought 75 was a pretty high speed and felt nervous.
Comments
Has anyone else had this experience? Does anyone have any ideas. I would like to have some advance ammunition before talk to the dealer so I can readily rebut his standard BS line of " oh there's nothing wrong they all sound that way"
There is a filter ( similar in look to the oil filter) located right below the air intake into the air filter.
At first I thought it was the oil filter to which I said to myself " hmmm...that's a "funny" orientation for a oil filter."
I tried looking hard at the Chiltons manual but it doestn't describe it. So what is it... is it a transmission oil filter?
-C-
I cannot see obvious irregularity in the tread, but I placed a clean sheet of paper in front of each tire and slowly drove over them, then inspected the resulting pattern left on the paper. I could see some variation in the imprint left by the outside segments. Every other segment left a lighter mark than the ones in between. I suspect that the noise is either coming from the irregular tread wear or internal belt rippling.
You won't get much help from the dealer, the tires are covered under a Goodyear warranty, not Mitsubishi (a very common arrangement for any make of car). Look through your owner's manual and materials for a Goodyear warranty paper. Or go to a Goodyear tire dealer and see if they will replace them for what they call "road disturbance" problems. You may have to pay some prorated amount for use, or maybe you'll get free replacements. Look over the tire warranty and hold them to the terms.
I have thought about doing the same, but I really would prefer to get away from Goodyear's altogether, so I am just enduring the noise until they wear out...for now.
It is handier to replace than the one that requires you to drop the pan and remove bolts.
Mr. Vivona
Change oil finally on my 'D'.
Just wanted to warn any would be DIY's that the Fram brand oil filter (PN#7317) is about 10-20% smaller the the original Mitsubishi part so probably less oil flow through is possible.
Besides it was harder for my oil wrench to grip the smaller oil filter.
The oil pan drain nut has a rubber 'O' ring rather than the usual metal washer...hmmm. Better buy one for the next change just in case.
It might just be worth spending the little extra to buy the original part. I paid $7.70 all up for the more expensive Fram Toughguard series. I just didn't want to drive 20 miles to my nearest Mitsubishi dealer just for an oil filter (...next time).
Also installed my new Pioneer TS-a6999 speakers on my "D" over the weekend. Overall I like the quality and no longer get the distortion on the bass.
-C-
As to the oil drain plug. Make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten it to 29 ft. lbs. to assure it is tight enough, but not too tight. Always use a new O-ring with each oil change.
When I turn on the auto climate control on the D, it seems like I get mostly cold air and no heat. I have to crank it up to 78 or 80 before I get any substantial heat. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
I have been putting 93 octane in the D. Should I continue this or can I use mid grade or 87 octane. I have seen posts about loss of performance but I don't really know what this means.
Thanks for all your help.
I have to say, I love my car. Even with Edmunds bad review. I took it today for the first 3000 mile oil change at the dealer. I even got a free wash to boot. It made me feel good when the service people told me I made a great choice in a vehicle. The bottom line with the D is you have to keep the oil and transmission changed and serviced and the D will give you miles and miles of pure pleasure. He told me the story of the old guy who has over 300,000 miles on his D but he religiously brings it in for the oil change and minor service. They also talked about the brake issue and said that Mitsubishi cars in general was sensitive to hard braking and rotors warped easily. The D was not so bad but the Galant was horrendous. The whole service experience was great. If anyone needs good dealer service on their D in the Southern California area contact Dynamic Mitsubishi in Pomona California. They are great.
Keep up the good work. These cars are great. Everyone tells me how good it looks. And the drive, man oh man. I love to get around slow-driving people. My baby accelarates like a dream.
I also have had very good service experiences @ Dynamic Mitsu in Pomona and highly recommend it.
70,000 mile update:
No further brake problems.
Runs solid as the day I bought it.
Not a squeek, rattle or noise anywhere.
Still a great strong freeway cruiser for the commute.
Still a classic, beautiful and unique looking car if you don't want a "Me-too" car.
- Bad quality (rattles and assembly issues)
- Inferior dealer service
- Sky-high depreciation
- Very low prestige
Just wanted to add my 5 cents.
I asked him why he now had an Acura RL. He said he wanted to try a larger car. This guy is very big (his name is Mac...we call him "Big Mac"). So, how do you like the Acura? He says "It's okay, but I liked the Diamante much better and will go back to a Diamante next time!"
He summed up his opinion of his Diamante as "The best car I have ever owned."
Also Twoof1 you must live in or near the Inland Empire. I had a great experience with Dynamic there. I wish I had bought my car from them. (Riverside ugh) I will get my next D from them. I even had the guys trying to help me figure out what rims off other vehicles (Eclipse,Galant) would look good on my car. I have the ES. Hate those covers.
I definitely have to get the LS next time.
NormanBates- You're right. Maybe I should have read the manual more thoroughly. I just read it for the air.
Mr.V I understand you wrote Edmunds a letter regarding their review. Good Going.
twoof what year is your D? Mr. V I know yours is a
99.
Also, Everyone post your review of your D at carreview dot.com
I absolutely love the car. I've changed the oil twice and rotated the tires, insisting on hand tightening of the lugs(I personally observed). I also added factory mud guards and a wind deflector to the sun roof. The car has performed flawlessly and is a pure pleasure to drive.
This car is very unique, I do a lot of driving for my job and rarely see the it on the road. Everyone who has rode in the car raves about the styling and comfort. My Dad owns a Chrysler LHS, a beautiful car, but does not have the quality in workmanship and comfort of the Diamante (my opinion). My personal favorite option is the heated seats! I'm looking forward to driving this winter in total comfort.
I will post again at 15K with an "honest" update on overall satisfaction. My rating at 7,500 miles is a 9 out of 10.
I will NEVER even consider Diamante (or any other Mitsubishi) again.
Anyway to always show the outside temp. - without having to press the button everytime.
For the heat to work should the little snow flake like symbol be off. If so, the auto also disappears
Anyway to have the doors lock automatically when the car is placed in drive or at a given speed
Anyway to turn on the interior lights for the back seat without opening the car door
Since there is a lot of talk about whether to follow Mitsubishi's recommendation of using Premium gasoline or use lower octane.
Have you ever or do you have an easy means to test using the different grades of fuel and run a "D" on a dyno to see the performance difference on the 3.5 litre engine?
-C-
As to how much you lose in performance...I have not seen any test results. You could find a deserted area of road to run some 0-60 tests on. Run it several times with a full tank of premium and average your times. Wait until you are almost at empty and fill up next time with regular and run the 0-60 test will the full tank. You want to have a full tank both times to keep the weight the same. Don't bring passengers or fill the trunk on either test run or that will throw off the comparison. Also make sure your tire pressures are the same for both tests.
Though this is not as scientific as an immediate comparison using separate fuel containers with a flow switch, it will give you a fair representation of the difference.
I opt for just using premium. The difference in cost per year is only about $120, or about $2.30 per week. That expense certainly won't change anybody's lifestyle. At least anybody that owns a Diamante.
The temperature display resets to the inside setting each time you start the car, so you can't make it stay on outside temperature. If the outside temperature goes below freezing, the display will automatically switch to outside to warn you of possible ice conditions.
If you turn off the snowflake, you are turning off the compressor. Heat will come on sooner with the compressor off. If you leave it in auto and set the temperature where you want it, the system will automatically set the airflow, vents and air temperature. You have to give it time to sense the return air to be able to provide the correct outflow of air.
The doors cannot normally be made to lock automatically. Conceivably, one could develop a circuit that would sense the placement in drive and provide a contact closure for the locking system. I just make it a normal part of my routine to push the lock button when I close the door. Works for me.
The back lights can be turned on with a switch immediately behind each light. To get all inside lights to come on, you could install a small switch somewhere convenient and tie it to the door light switch. The lighting system will then "think" you had opened a door when you push the added switch.
About those Goodyear Eagle GA's we both hate! I went to the local authorized Goodyear dealer with my noise problem. Come to find out, my car is way out of alignment. I asked how this could be since the car is only one year old. His response was that they sometimes come into the Mitsu dealer that way. Transportation people sometimes tie down one side of the car much tighter than the other for long periods of time while being transported. He said this was a common problem with all makes.
After examining the tires he said they looked as if the car had been out of alignment for a long time. He checked the alignment & found only the right side wheels were out. After a long discussion, he called the local Mitsu dealer's service mgr. & discussed the problem. I don't know what all was said but the Goodyear dealer admitted that part of the problem could have come from the tire.
What is important here for everyone to know is that your Mitsu warranty covers wheel alignment for the first 12,000 miles or 12 months. My car was 14 months old but only had 10500 miles. After letting the Mitsu dealer know in no uncertain terms that I was not going to just let this issue drop, he agreed to work with the Goodyear dealer.
So to make a long story short, between the two of them they gave me a 60% prorated credit on the tires, and paid for my four wheel alignment.
Today I bought Michelin Symmetry tires. After only a few short miles of driving on them, I feel like I own an even more refined vehicle. There is no comparison between the two in noise level even when the Goodyears were new. It is also a more comfortable riding tire.
A little advice for everyone out there who would like to improve the ride & noise level in your Diamante, get rid of the Goodyears!
I am not a fan of any brand of Performance tire or Touring tire. I have never owned one that is quiet or comfortable. For the life of me, I can't understand why Mitsu would put a V rated or any kind of performance tire on this car. This car is classified as a " Near Luxury " car. There is nothing luxurious about performance tires.
If you are having a tire problem with the original Goodyears on your Diamante, my advice is to be persistent with your Mitsu dealer & a local Goodyear dealer. It worked for me.
Thanks.
Every once in a while people such as yourself posts this questions.
Unfortunately this question opens huge can of worms. Especially to some who have made it their sworn, fanatic duty to destroy the Diamante model line (if not the entire Mitsubishi brand).
If you are really serious, it would be best that you read all the historical postings in this thread as well as the Diamante II thread.
I cannot imagine that the answers you get now will deviate from the answers 3 - 4 months ago when this topic was hotly debated.
Unlike the presidential election in Florida, bear in mind that the users in this type of discussion group can easily masquerade as different people with ease. So take this into accoount when deciding who has more votes....otherwise you'll surely hear from good 'ole Bohlen and Maury2 (...but not necessarily with those ID's).
Good luck with your decision,
-C-
and window rattles, and rough idle come to mind. I think if you spend $25K (or more) on a new near-luxury car, you are better off buying something else. I would recomment Acura TL, Nissan Maxima or Infinity I30. Diamante just doesn't make the cut.
> my prior posting a few days ago,
...Yep, sure you are ;-)
-C-
does anyone have any ideas what is causing this vibration, (I don't want to keep on buying stuff for the car that It don't need), could a warped rotor (that a lot of people are talking about)cause this vibration.
any help will be appreciated.
regards
A few of the members reassured me and I going to try the same.
I have two cars. The Diamante and a MB SLK320. I drive the SLK320 during the week and the Diamante on the weekends (I have to drive a lot on the weekends - 500 miles. Before I purchased I test drove a lot of cars
BMW 525, MB C-class and E-class. The Jag S-type. I was about to purchase a 525 when I was driving home from work and saw a car with the Mitsubisi logo that I though was very sharp looking. So I stopped by a dealer and found model of car that I saw - a "D" LS. I enjoyed the looks of the car, inside and out so I test drove one. The car drives as good as the E-class or S-type sedan. While the car does not have the prestige of the other cars it does cost about 15,000 less. After a month of owning the car I am glad I purchased it and so far have not had any problems. However, there are somethings I wish for
Wood on steering wheel and shifter
Better lighting in the cabin at night. For instance, the door locks button is not lit
Door locks when car placed in shift
Trunk not on hinges and closed automatically
Cassette with radio
Rain sensing wipers
Auto-dimming rearview and side mirrors
Hope this helps
The brake pads got glazed by a panic stop when the car was new. That is no fault of the car, any new car can glaze the pads if you panic stop. Glazed pads make a groaning noise just before stopping. The replacement pads have been excellent.
The vibration came from the Goodyear tires. On a car with low unsprung weight (luxury cars, sports cars) some tires need to be balanced with a force variance balancer (Hunter GSP9700). Regular balancing won't work. Mitsubishi took care of everything. No problems since, except the Goodyears are running a bit noisy. I will change them out for Michelins later on.
I consider these two issues as minor and not unusual. They certainly do not indicate any reliability issues for the Diamante.
I made my choice of Diamante based on reading many reviews, checking out every car in the entry luxury field, and talking to six owners with mileage up to 180,000 miles without problems. I would put much faith in the Edmunds or Consumer Reports reviews. I have written extensive rebuttals of both articles that I would be glad to repeat here if you want. Point is, the articles were subjective. I go by my own preferences, not those of journalists.
Drive the car yourself. If you like it, buy it. Don't get caught up in other's opinions, you are the one that has to live with the car.
Mr. Vivona
http://www.gsp9700.com/index.htm
Click on "Locate a GSP9700" to find a shop near you. If you are under 12,000 miles, the car warranty should pay for the balancing. Ask Mitsubishi to pay for the work. If the GSP9700 finds your tires to be defective, have them replaced under the tire warranty.
The GSP9700 balances down to a certain number of pounds of "road force variance" while pressing a 700 pound roller against the tread. You want the final number to be under 10 pounds. Many shops will balance to under 20 pounds, but on a car with low unsprung weight, you will feel vibration unless you get it under 10 pounds. Ask the tire mechanic to write the final number on the inner sidewall so you can check it.
Also, MAKE SURE they remove and replace the wheels only using hand tools, not an air impact wrench. And they should tighten the lugs to no more than 80 ft. lbs. with a hand torque wrench, or you will be asking for brake problems later on. This is true of any car, not just the Galant.
Mr. Vivona
A few of the members reassured me and I going to try the same.
I have two cars. The Diamante and a MB SLK320. I drive the SLK320 during the week and the Diamante on the weekends (I have to drive a lot on the weekends - 500 miles. Before I purchased I test drove a lot of cars
BMW 525, MB C-class and E-class. The Jag S-type. I was about to purchase a 525 when I was driving home from work and saw a car with the Mitsubisi logo that I though was very sharp looking. So I stopped by a dealer and found model of car that I saw - a "D" LS. I enjoyed the looks of the car, inside and out so I test drove one. The car drives as good as the E-class or S-type sedan. While the car does not have the prestige of the other cars it does cost about 15,000 less. After a month of owning the car I am glad I purchased it and so far have not had any problems. However, there are somethings I wish for
Wood on steering wheel and shifter
Better lighting in the cabin at night. For instance, the door locks button is not lit
Door locks when car placed in shift
Trunk not on hinges and closed automatically
Cassette with radio
Rain sensing wipers
Auto-dimming rearview and side mirrors
Hope this helps
BUT, I love the car! I just hate the dealer. Any suggestions of better dealers in the San Jose CA area?
I remember somebody was replacing the from 5.25" door speakers a few weeks back.
Can they please let me know how it went and how they did it!
Thanks in Advance!
-C-
Any recommendations on suspension and rotor replacement parts? I did read about the Powerslot rotors from a previous poster.
Pull the door panel by grabbing the lower edge at the bottom recess, and disconnect the door light assembly.
Remove the factory speakers, the holes of the 6"3/4 aftermarket ones should line up with the existing holes. My Boston Acoustics speakers are 6"1/2, and I had to use braces. Since you had Pioneer rear speakers, the obvious choice is Pioneer front speakers which fortunately come in 6"3/4.
Reverse the process to put things back together. The factory tweeters were inefficient, so I just left them alone. They would not impair the sound quality. The project is fairly easy and takes about a couple of hours. Good luck to you and enjoy the improved sound.
Having read through quite a few of the discussions here, thought I'd add my 2 cents: I bought a 1999 Diamante in August of 99. The car has 17,500 on it and I have been generally pleased.
1) Experienced what is known as "rail dust". Painstaking in its removal from my otherwise beautiful Pearl color.
2) Drivers door armrest broke.
3) Vibration developed at 12K traced to "tread deviation" from OE Yoko tires. Replaced with AVID H4 (Yoko paid 65%).
The Diamante has proved to be a fairly enjoyable automobile. I kind of wish I paid more for an LS version - miss leather. I am presently looking to upgrade audio and purchase for spring a Tire/Wheel package. For the money - (I paid 23,500, and after audio/wheel upgrades, 25,000,) I find the "D" a wise buy with looks that one can't find for much under 32,000. I'll be asking the forum for help on the audio (thanks Vivona and C) when I get ready for purchase. Look forward to everyone's insightful and information posts!
Of course AFTER I got it home did I realize the key has to be in the ignition (and the car in park) before the seats will move. HOw idiotic is that. As a result, I now have mem seats I don't use.
Curious if anyone else is annoyed with this.
Vivona = please don't tell me it's a safety issue!
Ace
First program your seat with your "OWN" designated key in the ignition.
Then in future...
Each time you unlock the car with your remote control the seats go into that same position.
Your wife will also have to memory position the seat with her "own" key in the ignotion so when she unlocks the car with the her remote it will automatically change to her fit.
This works on my 1999 "D" I don't know about the 1997.
Hope this helps!
Ace
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Bill