in previous post i stated fuse #5 was blown(pcm/abs) .. correction it was #8 (IGN FUEL STARTER). starter has been replaced and seems to be in working order
I have a 2001 Dodge stratus se or es coupe, and recently had the head gasket and water pump changed due to overheating. When I turn the car off and put the key in the on position, (you know just to listen to the radio or put the windows up, the engine is not on) the thermostat gauge goes up past half way (about half an inch past half way), the dealership told me that was normal, but I just wanted to make sure, so if anyone knows if it is or isn't let me know so i dont have to pay for another head gasket!!!!!
My 1st Stratus was a 97' 4Cyl. Trans. went at 96K. I replaced it with a 01' Stratus Coupe. At 65K I had the same fuel injector issues. I replaced the broken one and about a month later, it did it again. I took it to the dealer and gave them another chance. I bought an 04' R/T Coupe (why, I guess I just like danger). I'm now at 44K and guess what, Friday the same crap appeared in this car which is in perfect condition. I'm taking it to the Dealer in the morning and most likely trading it for something that's not a Dodge. I love my car, but this is ridiculous. So my advice, dump it before it explodes on you and you become a statistic. :sick:
I have a '97 Stratus. I have always ran 5w-30 mobile 1. I have changed my transmission fluid twice as a precaution. The wife drove it 3 years in Germany on the 'Baun and it survived 4 years in Alaska in -40 degree winters. The only thing I have ever replaced was the tires, roters and pads. I also had my fuel system cleaned as a precaution. I currently have 70K on it. The wife drove it about 65K of the 70K. I think having a single driver really cuts down on the problems. I also think I have been lucky. I contiplated buying another Stratus but after reading these reviews, there is no way. I think i'm gonna go with a Passat or a Hyundai Azera.
I'm getting a code p0740 meaning something in the transmission, how easy is this to fix, they said something electrical in the tranny, anyone have any ideas on this as I can't afford alot of money. any help would be appreciated.
My stratus recently started taking a long time to start. when it does the car smells like gas. I changed plugs, wires and an o2 sensor but still have the problem. after the car starts it runs really rough for a few seconds then runs fine. any suggestions? I hope wheelman reads this he seems to be knowledgeable
Not long after I had to pay $700 to get this fixed again, I took it and traded it in... I barely made it to the dealer, it was idling rough (still) and smelled like hot and burning something. I couldnt afford to keep putting money into it. There is obviously a problem with this issue and this car. I was super sad to see it go...
I changed my air filter not long ago and I don't have that musty smell anymore for either my air conditioner or my heat. Try that out and see what happens
For a long time my 04 Dodge Sratus has had that creaking sound. But you only hear it when the brake is engaged and you are turning either left or right. Today I had my rotor replaced and I made sure my calipers were safely tight and now I don't hear that creaking sound anymore. I guess my calipers weren't tight enough...hell I don't know.
My son's 2000 Status, 2.4L, has been causing us fits. He has been experiencing erratic/periodic problems while driving at all speeds. The engine will hesitate, shake, surge, while the Tach jumps up and down with spikes. It will eventually shut down, but will restart later with little or no problem. We've put about $700 into replacing various things, but still have the problem. Replaced the coil pack, cam sensor,(another sensor that I can't recall), and most recently the computer (ECM). We thought we had it knocked with the computer, but it happened again after 3 good solid weeks of smooth driving. The diagnostic scan doesn't reveal anything to go on. The garages haven't been able to find the problem because they can't reproduce or induce the symptoms. I intend to change out the plugs and install new plug wires tonight, but I'm not optimistic. Since the vibration/shaking/power loss/shutdown happens erratically, it renders the car not dependable to get him to his college classes.
Any help would be much appreciated. I've read some similar posts in here, but haven't seen many followups by folks stepping up to answer. Hope this time it's different. I'd love nothing more than to prove that this forum really works!!
I have little in the way of answers for your problem but I can relate my problems and maybe save you some money. My 98 24.L Status had a hard starting problem. It flooded, smelled like gas and ran rough when first started. I replaced the o2 sensor, plugs, cables, ran several diagnostics, all negative. Had the injectors checked. One was leaking, was cleaned and operated fine for one day. Then the problem started again. Changed the injector. Problem solved. In your case save your money on the wires and plugs unless they are bad. Try checking the injectors and check the plugs to see if they are clean. No fouling or soot. Maybe you have an injector that is not performing properly. A top mechanic will read the plugs first to see how they are burning, besides the computer scan. As you know the scan does not reveal every problem. Any way don't spend money unless the part checks bad. The engine shuting down I don't think would be an injector problem. As for this forum, I posted many questions when I had my trouble and never got any feed back. I hope this helps some. LP
Thanks baranger for your quick (and sole) response to my posting. I had already laid out the cash for the plugs and plug wires, so I did the install. When I did, I discovered one of the plug wires had a large amount of play where it attaches to the plug side. I also noticed that the cavity that houses that same plug had a considerable amount of engine oil in it. I don't know where the oil came from, but suspect maybe it pushed up from the cylinder when the rather violent jerking and vibrating occurred. (although that plug didn't feel loose when I removed it). None of the old plugs appeared to have any excess deposits or discoloring. I also discovered the Trans fluid was low (Just about registering on the stick), so I added 2 qts. Also added some Techtron Fuel Injector cleaner to the tank, and filled tank with high detergent premium fuel to clean out any possible system grunge. Took it for an 80 mile highway and city mixed driving trip, and all was smooth as silk. Trouble is, with so many variables in play, not sure what it was that fixed it, or whether it is in fact fixed. If it happens again, looks like I'll take your advice and see if I got an injector that needs to be replaced.
Great, I hope it was just the transmission slipping. If the car starts fine, the plugs were clean, and no rough idling, the injectors are fine. Keep in mind that the Stratus has a history of failed head gaskets. You can read many posts about that here and elsewhere. Here is a link to a site that you can pay a small fee to and have access to shop repair manuals that are very helpful. http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html Good Luck
I realize you posted this back in July, but I just found this website. Wasn't there a recall on the 2004 Dodge Stratus fuel injector? I just found on another website, well I looked up recalls because I own a 2004 Dodge Stratus, and the fuel injector is the only one that came up. Just curious if that would be covered or not.
I bought my former company car, a 2004 Stratus with a 2.7 liter V-6, with 66,000 miles on it for my daughter and I noted in the owner's manual that the alternator and drive belt should be changed at 60,000 miles, which should be a considerable expense. Has anyone put on considerable mileage beyond 60k without any problems with this 2.7 engine? Or is there a high incidence rate of alt. and belt failure for this engine, which prompted Dodge to include the replacement of these items at 60k? I realize that it is always safer to change the items as recommended by the company to be on the safe side, but I was wondering how many folks have ignored these scheduled items without any problems.
While I have operated this car for 66,000 miles, I have had my share of driveability problems that were experienced my many other owners, such as the surging and engine stalling at low speeds or at idle, but these problems were corrected by a local dealer after a few trips when they adjusted the computer.
My wife also used to complain about driving or riding in the car, since she used to say how "jerky" the car operated (which was never corrected by the dealer), but she now seems to love how it operates now after I had the trans fluid (and filter) replaced with a complete ATF Synthetic Fluid from AMSOIL. It seems that the shifts are much smoother now. I should also point out that that I had been using Mobil1 5 W 30 for most of the oil changes during the time it was a company car, but I saw a noticeable increase in performance from changing the oil last week to AMSOIL 5 W 30 (full synthetic) along with their full synthetic oil filter (this was done before the trans fluid change).
I've been searching high and low for some custom tail lights for my Dodge Stratus SXT Coupe 04'. Does anyone know where I can find some? Websites, stores, anything, Help!
I bought my Dodge Stratus in June of 2005. I've been religious with the upkeep. It was fine up until a little over a month ago. One morning while on my way into work, I lost power for about 10 seconds. I had the accelerator all the way to the floor but I was not accelerating and the tachometer was hovering around 4000 RPM with the accelerator all the way to the floor. As quickly as it started it went away. I found out my wife had a similar experience a couple of nights before. Since then, it has happened at least once a day. We've had it to 2 different dealerships, 4 different times. The first time at the first dealership, they said all it needed was a tune-up. After the tune-up, it ran rough the whole way home. We took it to a local mechanic, who said a valve had been blown, so we returned it to the dealership. After they repaired the valve, we went to pick it up, only to find it running worse so we took it back again. The third time at the dealership they replaced the crank sensor, the fuel sensor, and all fuel injector. It was running better, but the following day, it lost power again, so we tried our luck at a different dealership. The second dealership had it for over a week and put a 100 miles on the car but could not duplicate the problem. The service manager explained that there was no fault code showing up during the computer diagnostic so they didn't know where to begin looking. Being our only means of transportation, we took it from Ohio to Louisiana for vacation. It happened twice on the way down. Once was while my wife was braking while going down hill; even then, the tachometer still went to 4000 RPMS without touching the gas peddle. On the way back, it happened again as we were pulling out from a gas station to cross a 4 lane highway. Some good defensive driving from the other drivers spared our family of 5, but it made me realize how dangerous this problem is. It occurred one more time on the way home while the cruise control was on. It's almost like it's going into neutral then back out again. Both dealerships say there is no fault code being given and if it was a transmission problem, it would be recorded by the computer. It occurs under any condition; going uphill, downhill, level surface, accelerating, decelerating, full tank of gas, half tank of gas...etc. Has anyone else ever experienced anything like this at all?
My 2001 dodge stratus has mileage of 104,000 and it has been making a very loud noise in the morning when it is cold outside. It continues for about 5 minutes then it stops when the car is warmed up enough. What causes this noise?
I have a 2001 Stratus ES (2.7L) with 82,000 miles. I am religious about changing the oil every 3,000 miles. I have had the car for a year and a half with no problems at all. Just put new tires on the car this past Saturday. Sunday I put the tires to the test through a bunch of winding and hilly roads. Now when stopping, the oil pressure light comes on. It goes off when rpms come up. Oil level is fine and clean. I have read posts about possible oil switches. Car still runs fine but am planning a trip this weekend and would like to avoid getting stuck away from home. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Three out of my four doors on my 1998 Stratus makes a loud cracking/popping noise when door opens and closes. Is it a bad hinge? I tightened all doors but the problem still persists. Anyone have same problem and maybe a solution?
3rd Stratus: I, too, have had MANY fuel injector problems with my 04 Stratus sxt. As of August of 2006, according to the dealer and dodge corporate, there were not any recalls for this issue... but if you find something out about such a recall, please let me know! I finally had to get rid of the car because these fuel injector issues were 'not under warranty' and I couldn't afford to keep putting money into this car plus its high car payment,
I have a 1998 Dodge Stratus and last night as I was to take my leave from work, I go to get into my car and upon turning the key into the ignition, the engine didn't turn over. Now I've had this problem before where I would have to crank for a few moments before the car would start. However last night the engine didn't turn on -- I cranked one more time and the engine revved only to shut off just about 1 second later.
When the engine shut off, it took my cd player, the buttons for heat and a/c, turning signals, windshield wipers, and locks out with it... However my interior lights, my headlights, and my windows still work fine.
I consulted a garage, and they told me it's probably a faulty battery (but i would assume nothing electrical would work then..) but I've seen elsewhere it could be anything from an ignition switch, to the starter/cellenoid to the distributor. Anybody else have this exact problem?
Any advice is appreciated! It's cold and the walk to work sucks, and with snow in the forecast I would like my car back..
can you use a analog voltmeter to do diagnostics on a 96' 2.4 stratus? if so, how?? my stratus just stopped running!!! no no engine trouble light comes on, it turns over and sounds like it wants to start but won't?????????replaced timing belt about 500 miles ago and just replaced coil. my tach seemed to quit working just before it stalled???? any and all help will be appreciated
Pulled 2001 Stratus into garage a week ago, all ok. Today, started engine and "service engine soon" light came on and stayed on. Engine idle did seem a bit rougher. Turned off engine. When restarted, light still on, but idled smooth. Drove around block, ran fine. Removed and reinstalled gas cap, light still on.
Car has only 22,000 miles on it. Original owner. Any ideas other than take to dealer and check codes?
can you use a analog voltmeter to do diagnostics on a 96' 2.4 stratus? if so, how?? my stratus just stopped running!!! no no engine trouble light comes on, it turns over and sounds like it wants to start but won't?????????replaced timing belt about 500 miles ago and just replaced coil. my tach seemed to quit working just before it stalled???? any and all help will be appreciated
:mad: Go to start my car last week and when I turn the key there is no dash lights no radio. Turn the key all the way over any there is nothing . After trying to boost the car and much searching I find the 20 amp ignition fuse blown in the engine fuse box. A couple days later the same thing. Put 4 new fuses in an 4 times the fuse blows. I get the car towed to my mechanic and he finds nothing wrong after 2 days of restarting the car over and over again. Not once did the fuse blow for him. A few days later the same thing the fuse blow so I install another fuse but the car wont start. I leave the car along for the day the next morning it starts no problem. Any help would be great. My patience are run very short.
OMG! this is happening to me too! someone please help. my husband and i have our explorer in the body shop right now from a wreck and now our only transportation is not running b/c it keeps blowing that fuse under the hood. i have changed it out 4 times and it keeps blowing every time i start it. it clicks loud and when i go under the hood, it is blown. its only that one too.
I have the same problem. I have a 99' Dodge Stratus. It idles very hard. The whole car shakes and feels like it's going to stall. This progressively got worse after having service done after Expressway noticed an unknown leak coming from my car I: Replaced Cylinder head, head gasket, timing belt, water pump, oil filter, timing belt, tension pulley, motor tuned, and thermostat checked. (I'm going by the bill I don't know much about cars) But after bringing it back 3x, all a response I got was to put fuel cleaner through my gas tank to clean out the system, and nothing else could fix a heavy idle. what is going on?!
get your started checked under load. The problem is more then likely the starter module. I don't think you can get that part replaced only. I would put A used starter in like I did and see if the problem goes away. I haven't had a problem yet and its been 2 months but will keep you posted if you want.
You mentioned that you (they) replaced the head and head gasket, etc. Unless there was damage to the head itself would requiring replacing and would be very expensive. Sounds like your stratus has or had the infamous leaking head gasket problem which is inherent to this particular engine. Noticed pool of oil in your driveway, which started as small drops, and as the oil leak worsened the engine started to run rough. Need to correct problem by replacing the gasket with the metal composite, replace all the headbolts with new (highly recommended), new exhaust gasket, probably replace the front O2 sensor located on your exhaust manifold, and lastly inspect your exhaust manifold (needs to be removed - easy 4 bolts/4 nuts)for crack(s) probalbly located between #2 and 3 exhaust ports. Cause of all your problems were twofold - #1 the factory exhaust gasket was made out of a paper composite which comnbined with #2 problem which is a exhaust manifold that cracks and directs heat to the manifold effectively contributing to the gasket failure which shows itself as an oil leak that progressively gets worst to failure and a rough runnig engine. As far as the shop replacing the head...only if damaged and beyond repair (machine work), Call the parts store or dealer and price a new or remanufactured head and you should be able to compare that to your bill. By the way there was an (un)official recall on these cars with this problem. You might want to check it out on the web, you may be able to be get your money back. Type in "stratus leaking head gasket"......and BEHOLD! Hope this helps. By the way with the gasket problem fixed you'd be amazed of the power of the Stratus engine!
You mentioned that you (they) replaced the head and head gasket, etc. Unless there was damage to the head itself would requiring replacing and would be very expensive. Sounds like your stratus has or had the infamous leaking head gasket problem which is inherent to this particular engine. Noticed pool of oil in your driveway, which started as small drops, and as the oil leak worsened the engine started to run rough. Need to correct problem by replacing the gasket with the metal composite, replace all the head bolts with new (highly recommended), new exhaust gasket, probably replace the front O2 sensor located on your exhaust manifold, and lastly inspect your exhaust manifold (needs to be removed - easy 4 bolts/4 nuts)for crack(s) probably located between #2 and 3 exhaust ports. Cause of all your problems were two-fold - #1 the factory exhaust gasket was made out of a paper composite which combined with #2 problem which is a exhaust manifold that cracks and directs heat to the manifold effectively contributing to the gasket failure which shows itself as an oil leak that progressively gets worst to failure and a rough running engine. As far as the shop replacing the head...only if damaged and beyond repair (machine work), Call the parts store or dealer and price a new or re manufactured head and you should be able to compare that to your bill. By the way there was an (un)official recall on these cars with this problem. You might want to check it out on the web, you may be able to be get your money back. Type in "stratus leaking head gasket"......and BEHOLD! Hope this helps. By the way with the gasket problem fixed you'd be amazed of the power of the Stratus engine!
I have a 05 stratus and when I shift into drive you have to push in on a button on the shifter. but the button will not push in so I can not get out of park. Help!! richard :mad:
My daughter has a 1999 Stratus (almost 200000m on it) and came home with it the other day saying that at low speed (0-35), she was feeling a "tapping," but at higher speeds it went away. She said the tapping was "faster" at slower speed and slowed as she picked up speed. She also said the check engine light came on at the lower speeds but went off at the higher speeds.
I checked her oil and added 2 quarts. She could be losing oil somewhere because she just had it serviced a month ago. But I don't see any on the ground where she parks, so that is a question mark.
Anyway, I started her car and listened to it. It sounded like it might be idling a little rough, but not too bad. So I took it out for a short drive. I didn't notice the "tapping" but the check engine light was on. After I had driven at slow speed for a little while, I got it up to about 50. As I was coming back home after having gone about a half mile, the check engine light started blinking and continued to do so for the last quarter mile until I got home.
I know I need to get it to a mechanic to have it put on the diagnostic computer, but I'm not sure if I should drive it at all with the light blinking. That could be indicative of something pretty serious couldn't it?
I have a 2000 Dodge Stratus, and last week I took it in for 50,000 mile service. Today the check engine light went on. I turned it on, off, on, off on -- and went out. What's up?
I took my car in for service 2 weeks ago for 50,000 mile check up. $700+. Today my engine light went on. I searched the internet and was told to turn key to on, off, on, off, on -- no diagnostic numbers appeared. Should I worry about this? Car is running fine.
I own a 2001 Stratus Rt with some cooling issues. Her are the problems: Lower Radiator hoses remains cold while car has been running for hours. System has no pressure in it, can remove radiator cap at any time after car has been run for hours. No heat at idle inside car, only at high idle or while driving. Car also overheats at lights or if let idle in the morning in winter. System is full of antifreeze and installed a new thermostat. I am mechanically inclined, just want to know where to start. I have heard of this same problem so I am hoping that someone can help. Thank you very much. Joe
2001 Stratus 86k. has been great for the 38k i've put on it. 2 wks ago i noticed it started driving hard like it was gripping the road. tougher and tougher to get to 65mph. then a little noise to point now it sounds like a bad muffler inside the car but it's not and runs very quiet while idling. i thought maybe a transmission, never had 1 go so i don't know what to expect. has tranny fluid. starts great. oil is changed every 3k any ideas
Hello Richie. I just bought a 2001 Stratus se. Here's the car fax report on it. Pay attention to the transmission part regarding the speed sensor. I hope this helps.--John. Write me back @johnpaul4223@hotmail.com. I have the whole printout if you want it. It cost me a little bit , but I'll be happy to share it. Later.
Identifix Reliability Ratings
Category: Comments: Rating: Engine An occasional problem on this vehicle is the failure of the Timing Chain and Guides (2.7L engine only). Failure of the Timing Chain and Guides may prevent the vehicle from starting. The cost to repair the Timing Chain and Guides is estimated at $537.80 for parts and $292.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax. Transmission & Driveline Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Transmission Turbine Speed Sensor and the Output Shaft Speed Sensor. The cost to replace either of the Speed Sensors is estimated at $25.60 for parts and $32.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax. Steering & Suspension Infrequent problems reported, all with low repair costs Brakes Infrequent problems reported, all with low repair costs Heating & Air Conditioning An occasional problem on this vehicle is the failure of the Blower Motor Resistor, 4 door sedan only. Failure of the Blower Motor Resistor may cause the fan to run only on high speed. The cost to repair the Blower Motor Resistor is estimated at $14.75 for parts and $32.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax. Starting & Charging Infrequent problems reported, all with low repair costs Accessories Infrequent problems reported, all with low repair costs
This 2001 DODGE STRATUS reliability information was provided by Identifix. Identifix is the nation's largest technical support service for the aftermarket auto repair industry. CARFAX does not review or correct the information provided by Identifix.
Understand that the Avenger is replacing the Stratus. Took a Charger on a test drive today (my impressions are in the Charger forum... sweet ride..), but also looked at and sat in a 2008 (?) Avenger in the dealer's lot... Thought it looked nice, modern, kinda like a mini-Charger.... Has anyone driven one yet and can post some impressions?
I drive a '96 Dodge. This past year my car has been acting all strange. My air/heat vent switches quit working that it only has one setting that sends cold or hot air up to the windshield, the floor and the side vents. The rest of the settings don't work... that happened last year. I didn't have the time to get it in to take it fixed but as of last week... it's back to normal. I got all the settings and everything. It was strange. Another thing, My 'Check Engine' Light came on and stayed that way for two and half weeks until I decided to have it checked out without having to fix it until I know what it is. Turns out it's my EGR value (or is that ERG valve??) that needs to be replaced... that's what caused my light to come one until the NEXT day it went off on it's own. Got me puzzled... Anyone has that strange case when a car has a mind of it's own or something like that?? :confuse:
Hi All, I drive a 97 Dodge Stratus and recently just spent 900 bucks to place a new motor under the hood. 150,000 miles on the car, and with a new motor I am aiming to try to give the car a fresh start at life..
however the previous owner of the car broke the driver's seat on the right side. When I go to sit in the vehicle I often lean slightly to the right, making a drive uncomfortable. I am looking to change this..
Should I go to a dealer and get stratus seat placed in, or should i consider aftermarket seats - if so, what are the best and best priced aftermarket seats available?
Comments
thanks for any tips.
bajaranger
Any help would be much appreciated. I've read some similar posts in here, but haven't seen many followups by folks stepping up to answer. Hope this time it's different. I'd love nothing more than to prove that this forum really works!!
Thanks much, in advance.
LP
Thanks again.
Good Luck
While I have operated this car for 66,000 miles, I have had my share of driveability problems that were experienced my many other owners, such as the surging and engine stalling at low speeds or at idle, but these problems were corrected by a local dealer after a few trips when they adjusted the computer.
My wife also used to complain about driving or riding in the car, since she used to say how "jerky" the car operated (which was never corrected by the dealer), but she now seems to love how it operates now after I had the trans fluid (and filter) replaced with a complete ATF Synthetic Fluid from AMSOIL. It seems that the shifts are much smoother now. I should also point out that that I had been using Mobil1 5 W 30 for most of the oil changes during the time it was a company car, but I saw a noticeable increase in performance from changing the oil last week to AMSOIL 5 W 30 (full synthetic) along with their full synthetic oil filter (this was done before the trans fluid change).
Anyone have same problem and maybe a solution?
I have a 1998 Dodge Stratus and last night as I was to take my leave from work, I go to get into my car and upon turning the key into the ignition, the engine didn't turn over. Now I've had this problem before where I would have to crank for a few moments before the car would start. However last night the engine didn't turn on -- I cranked one more time and the engine revved only to shut off just about 1 second later.
When the engine shut off, it took my cd player, the buttons for heat and a/c, turning signals, windshield wipers, and locks out with it... However my interior lights, my headlights, and my windows still work fine.
I consulted a garage, and they told me it's probably a faulty battery (but i would assume nothing electrical would work then..) but I've seen elsewhere it could be anything from an ignition switch, to the starter/cellenoid to the distributor. Anybody else have this exact problem?
Any advice is appreciated! It's cold and the walk to work sucks, and with snow in the forecast I would like my car back..
Thanks,
Gary
Car has only 22,000 miles on it. Original owner. Any ideas other than take to dealer and check codes?
Thanks,
After trying to boost the car and much searching I find the 20 amp ignition fuse blown in the engine fuse box.
A couple days later the same thing. Put 4 new fuses in an 4 times the fuse blows. I get the car towed to my mechanic
and he finds nothing wrong after 2 days of restarting the car over and over again. Not once did the fuse blow for him. A few days later the same thing the fuse blow so I install another fuse but the car wont start. I leave the
car along for the day the next morning it starts no problem.
Any help would be great. My patience are run very short.
I haven't had a problem yet and its been 2 months but will keep you posted if you want.
richard :mad:
I checked her oil and added 2 quarts. She could be losing oil somewhere because she just had it serviced a month ago. But I don't see any on the ground where she parks, so that is a question mark.
Anyway, I started her car and listened to it. It sounded like it might be idling a little rough, but not too bad. So I took it out for a short drive. I didn't notice the "tapping" but the check engine light was on. After I had driven at slow speed for a little while, I got it up to about 50. As I was coming back home after having gone about a half mile, the check engine light started blinking and continued to do so for the last quarter mile until I got home.
I know I need to get it to a mechanic to have it put on the diagnostic computer, but I'm not sure if I should drive it at all with the light blinking. That could be indicative of something pretty serious couldn't it?
any ideas
Write me back @johnpaul4223@hotmail.com. I have the whole printout if you want it. It cost me a little bit , but I'll be happy to share it. Later.
Identifix Reliability Ratings
Category: Comments: Rating:
Engine An occasional problem on this vehicle is the failure of the Timing Chain and Guides (2.7L engine only). Failure of the Timing Chain and Guides may prevent the vehicle from starting. The cost to repair the Timing Chain and Guides is estimated at $537.80 for parts and $292.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
Transmission & Driveline Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Transmission Turbine Speed Sensor and the Output Shaft Speed Sensor. The cost to replace either of the Speed Sensors is estimated at $25.60 for parts and $32.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
Steering & Suspension Infrequent problems reported, all with low repair costs
Brakes Infrequent problems reported, all with low repair costs
Heating & Air Conditioning An occasional problem on this vehicle is the failure of the Blower Motor Resistor, 4 door sedan only. Failure of the Blower Motor Resistor may cause the fan to run only on high speed. The cost to repair the Blower Motor Resistor is estimated at $14.75 for parts and $32.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
Starting & Charging Infrequent problems reported, all with low repair costs
Accessories Infrequent problems reported, all with low repair costs
This 2001 DODGE STRATUS reliability information was provided by Identifix. Identifix is the nation's largest technical support service for the aftermarket auto repair industry. CARFAX does not review or correct the information provided by Identifix.
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Anyone has that strange case when a car has a mind of it's own or something like that?? :confuse:
however the previous owner of the car broke the driver's seat on the right side. When I go to sit in the vehicle I often lean slightly to the right, making a drive uncomfortable. I am looking to change this..
Should I go to a dealer and get stratus seat placed in, or should i consider aftermarket seats - if so, what are the best and best priced aftermarket seats available?
Thanks!