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I ended up getting a 97 NSX-T in Spa Yellow. It had about 10k miles when I purchased it. I don't get to drive it as often as I would like. Maybe once every two weeks on some country roads with the top removed. I don't have any immediate plans on auto crossing the car.
Here are some photos taken by the previous owner.
http://photos.yahoo.com/l943973
Of the models you mentioned, I think the Porsche 356 is the most striking in design. I prefer the Speedster models over the Coupe. I've only seen one 356 (convertible) on the road in my lifetime. It certainly put a big smile on my face, and I wasn't even driving it. If maintenance costs were a deciding factor, I would probably get the miata.
I think a Miata provides just as much "fun" as an NSX. I guess I could have went with the Miata, but the NSX was something I've always wanted since it first came out in 90.
Have fun on whatever you decide.
William
Congrats on your NSX selection, William. I don't know many people who are not inclined to admire that car. For all the reviews that complain about "dated architecture" and so on, it's hard to believe how (relatively) cheap it can be to get a true exotic ... one that's even reliable! And very noticeable even if beige, let alone yellow:-)
If you can grab a weekend (Sunday usually) you should really try it on the auto-x track. The NSXs that I've seen are fast, sometimes too fast and require a soft touch to time well, and anyway that's not the point. You don't even have to purchase a helmet as someone will be quick to loan you one, and when you are humbled (as I often am) no one says anything negative. Great time! Maybe I could try the RL? Not really.
TAke care.
Joe W.
I'm not too sure why your tire pressure should be different in summer. But the recommended tire pressure is 28 psi. I run mine at 32 all year. One guy I met used 35, but I didn't like the effect on the handling. I tried 30 for awhile but it was still a little too soft.
I used the Red Riding Hood theory of tire pressure, I guess.
Take care.
Joe W.
I haven't heard of an oil called Redline. Could you elaborate . Is it synthetic? Great news about the mileage on your new RL. May I also ask what you paid. I'm hopeing to buy one this fall.
Thanks,
Greg
It's the only Synthetic oil available that is made from polyol ester base stock, not the dyno base like Mobile 1, and it is used in all modern jet engines. It has long drain capabilities ( up to 18000 miles) and is used by most of Honda's race teams. I'll still change out at 7500 mi however. $ 8.00 a qt! But worth it! Check it out at www.redlineoil.com
The new SL oils which use hydrocracked base (Chevron or Citgo come to mind) should easily go 5K miles and cost just over $1/qt.
Just a thought :-)
I use the same oil (but different grade) in my NSX and have very happy with it.
William
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Which race engines are you talking about ? I have heard of some of the NASCAR/American makes using redline but HONDA ??
Also, I wonder why Mobil1 is the standard factory oil fill for all Mercedes AMG vehicles, All BMW M-vehicles, the Corvettes, the Porsches etc. Have these automakers not heard about "Redline" ??
I would any day wager that Exxon-Mobil would definitely have more R&D funds than small firms like Redline. Is there a reason why Redline sells through private distributors and not through big sales channels ?
The below is what Exxon-Mobil has mentioned about Redline within their website:
Question: Red Line Oil talks about "four-ball wear," "load wear," "Falex wear" and "Timken psi load" for their synthetic oil. Are these valid tests?
Answer: These tests are low-cost tests generally used to determine the performance properties of grease. They do not correlate with engine performance tests. For example, the use of an additive such as lead naphthenate would yield excellent results in these bench (or lab) tests, but would cause excessive oxidation of an oil in an engine and would cause a motor oil to fail the industry standard oxidation test known as the Sequence III test.
None of the tests referenced are used by API in determining gasoline engine motor oil performance (SL is the current, most severe oil classification), nor are they used by engine manufacturers. The API approval requires the following tests:
L-38 for bearing corrosion.
Sequence IIIF for oxidation, deposits and wear.
Sequence VG for sludge, wear and varnish.
Sequence II for rust.
This slate of tests can cost over $75,000 to run – considerably more than the simple bench tests mentioned.
Question2: Red Line Oil claims to have 100 percent polyolester base stocks. Are these different or better than the base stocks used in Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™?
Answer: We are very familiar with polyolesters. In fact, we manufacture them and use them in our aviation jet engine oils such as Mobil Jet Oil II® and Mobil Jet Oil 254® and in our refrigeration compressor lubricants, where the polyolesters are utilized for their compatibility with new HFC refrigerants. Polyolesters are indeed excellent at high-temperature oxidation stability and low volatility.
However, our work on automobile engines and jet engine designs has shown that polyalphaolefins (PAOs) offer the best all-around performance for gasoline engines due to their:
Being completely compatible with conventional oils and gasoline engine seals.
Providing both low- and high-temperature performance.
Providing a stable oil in the presence of water and moisture.
Having anti-rust capabilities.
Later...AH
My rear view mirror went bad after the warranty. It didn't dim in certain areas anymore. The part costs roughly $460 (If you call around, you can probably get it for $430). I replaced the mirror myself so labor wasn't an issue (its a pain though because its pretty tight and the service manual is incorrect). Labor was roughly $80 for the mirror replacement.
An oxygen sensor could go bad before the 75k mark, but it varys from car to car. My previous Acura's oxygen sensor was replaced at 130k miles. My 99 RL was replaced at 30k miles. Not sure what the labor costs are for that.
My right passenger door lock was sticking around 49k miles. That was fixed under warranty. Don't remember the cost but it required removing the door panel and ordering a new actuator.
My CD changer skips sometimes now, but I think its just dirty (never been cleaned). Not sure how to clean it though short of taking it apart.
William
However, I also have a 1995 Legend, and did purchase an Acura extended warranty for it. I paid $1100 for an extra 3 years & 50,000 miles (bringing it to a total of 7 years & 100,000 miles). It has a $50 deductible.
It's been worth it for me since I've gotten more than that amount back in repairs, all of which were in the last year or so. My feeling was that the 6th/7th year was when things would start to break down, and having the warranty protection enabled me to feel more comfortable about holding on to the car as it got older.
The best thing about this deal, mrrogers, is the honesty of the dealer in telling you.
You should be able to find a good '99 in the range of about 26-27,000 -- flood damage (my nonexpert opinion as a car buyer) should hit the value of the car by much more than $5000. My guess would be in the range of $10k at least.
But I have some constructive suggestions, assuming your really love the car:
*pose the same question on the "Real World Values" board here on Edmund's.
*ask your insurance agent what s/he thinks about coverage and how it may impact that.
*run a Carfax to see if anything else has happened to it.
*go to an independent mechanic with the car. Ask the same question.
*go to an independent body shop with the car. Ask the same question.
If it were me, I'd pass if it cost any more than I'd be willing to pay for a 10 yr. old car, i.e., willing to send to salvage when done with it. If it's better, then you get some return on it that you haven't planned on. I'm not saying I'm right, but flood damage ESPECIALLY if it's saltwater, is scary.
Good luck. Let us know what, and how, you decide.
Joe W.
Thanks,
sburke,,,
A reporter is looking to talk with drivers of the Lincoln Navigator and the Acura 3.5 RL. If you fit this description and are willing to share your story and contact information, please respond asap no later than Friday Aug. 9 at 5:00 p.m. Eastern to jfallon@edmunds.com. Thanks!
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Take care.
Joe w.
As a side note - my cousin just traded in his "salvaged" '99 Lexus GS400 and got $24K for it. The dealer even signed off a release form acknowledging the fact that they knew the car was rebuilt. YMMV...
Any suggestions? Should I invest in an extended warranty (if so, how much will it cost), or will Acura North America take care of this given the history?
Thanks for any advice.
It sounds like I would certainly invest in an exteneded warranty. You don't mention, but I'd imagine that a new trans runs $1500 -- $2000 and more ... if you keep the car for 100k it could go through three more transmissions!
Personally, I'd buy the warranty then eventually sell it, perhaps buying a new RL with the great deals being offered. Without the x-warranty, I don't think you'd get anything like a good value from buyer or dealer because of the transmission "issues."
Again, I'd check all of this out on "REal World" here at Edmund's before doing anything.
Good luck.
Joe W.
Also, I have heard others mention $6,000 in dealer cash in previous years. Has this been pretty common the past couple of years at the end of the model year? I didn't know if I should expect to see the current $4,000 cash go to $6,000 shortly.
There was a recall on the 99 models for a transmission case bolt. This recall applies to 96-99 RLs and 96-98 3.2TLs. It will tell you if your car has had this fixed based on your VIN number and whats in the Acura database.
If you haven't already, I would sign up on Acura's owners link on the acura web site. When you enter your car's VIN, it will show all recalls for your car and display maintenance schedules, car care, troubleshooting, etc. The site was recently updated and definitely worth signing up for. The old site was pretty worthless.
-William
Thanks, William. I forgot about that.
Take care.
Joe W.
24 months 2.9%
36 months 3.9%
48 months 4.9%
Any ideas regarding what an extended warranty will cost on the 98 RL? It currently has 43k miles, and will hit 4 years in a month.
I think I'm having the same problem with my SRS light coming on. Came on when the passenger sat down and stayed on. Going to have it checked out tomorrow morning. Did you have yours checked out yet?
William
Had a dealer check this,,,could not "read" the code,,,replaced the opds unit and sensor parts,,,
part #,,,81334-sz3-a13,,,opds
81122-sz3-a81,,,pad, r.fr.
91566-spo-003,,,clip, back cover,,3 clips
All covered under warranty.
Job took most of the day,,,,I had requested a loaner for this service, I thought I would get another acura, since that is part of the purchase privilege,,,,I ended up with a chevy metro for one day,,,told me this was all they had for rental,,,that too was paid,,,I survived!
SBurke
I was told this was a recall item so it was covered under warranty. My 90k miles put me over the warranty but it was still free.
They dropped me off in an MDX shuttle to my office. I had a coworker drop me off to pick up the car 3 hours later. They washed the car and vacuum the interior.
Relentlessly,
L
Satire,It sounds like you might just be missing an old friend. So satire, since I've fixed your moonroof problem, will you now forever be MY friend?
Anyone have the inside scoop?
Thanks, Scott
Also, KBB sometimes tends to be on the high side, especially with their "Consumers Edition."
a) previously mentioned moonroof problem (stupid, stupid, stupid sums up the RL 's moonroof)
b) storage and power outlet instead of a cig lighter/ashtray (far more practical)
c) six disk IN DASH CD changer would be more user friendly
d) an alarm system that won't set itself until the trunk lid is CLOSED
e) a smooth paint finish (big glob of paint on my hood-under the clearcoat-that I didn't notice until the next day....gonna cost Acura over $500 to repaint it)
f) FIVE speed auto trans with better grade logic
g) 30 more horses under the hood would certainly help and why isn't the RL a VTEC engine? I'm told it's the only engine Honda makes that isn't VTEC...true??????
h) glove box latch farther to the left would be more convenient
i) no in-cabin CD/CD jewel case storage (you can cram a few in the center console, but it ain't deep enough to hold more than three or four)
j) auto headlights that actually turn themselves off (the auto on feature didn't work in the 70's and it still doesn't work right in the new RL)
k) why does the RL need two buttons to control airflow (outside vs. recycle)
l) "parking brake release"???? step on it to release it would be more user friendly
m) ability to reach the power seat controls with the door closed would be a nice feature
I admit no car is perfect. And to 90% of humanity, the above issues would mean nothing. But my point is that Honda got a lot of things right with the TL and has failed to carry them over to the RL. I have no interest whatsoever in going back to a TL as the RL is a blast and I do enjoy the fact that I'm driving a car nearly equal to the A6, 5 Series, E Class plus all the Lexus and Infinitys you want to bring up. And I got it for $36,400 (w/o navi). Throw in Honda's leasing plan and it's costing me $11 more a month than my TL. Yes, I'm happy. No, I'm not 100% happy. More like 92% happy. Fix the moonroof problem and that would increase to 96% happy.
As for being your friend coosamtn, no thanks. In case you've missed it, I'm rather astucious.
1) 270 hp or so, whether from a V-8 or V-6;
2) 5-speed AT (with "Manu-matic");
3) in-dash six disc CD changer;
4) foot-release parking brake (my Ody has it).
I like the near-stealth ride quality, have no problem with storage (use slim CD cases), and my passengers like the rear seat room. I have no difficulty in reaching the power seat controls. The pearl white finish has been immaculate (no gobs) and other than normal wear-and-there items, I only had one oxygen sensor replaced, covered by an extended warranty purchased by the previous owner.
The car's been a dream, not a nightmare.