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Comments
also for the rear brakes....try this link
http://www.vwmkiv.com/brakelight.htm
I've heard 1156 bulbs can replace the P21W ones, for a much cheaper price.
are not recomended for VW's as you you have to destroy the cars electrical system to install one. It will void your warranty"
Has anyone else heard this?
I know you explained before, but I am too lazy to search and I forgot.
Vocus, are you saying that sway bays will lower the car to the ground? There isn't a lot of space now. Living in a snow belt might be a problem.
What are HIDs? I don't know what all the definitions mean yet. I'm getting there, though.
The nice bright lights you see usually on the luxury cars, and 02 Maxima & 03 Focus. They have the bluish to purple look to them
And HIDs for Jettas are anywhere from $1000-1400! I love the light they provide though. Would switch to them in a second if I had an accident and had to get the lights in front replaced.
And he will more than likely void the warranty for the chip, which I am definitely getting in February. I don't care, that's what extended warranties are for.
The sway bar is a simple piece of equipment that connects the rear suspension together and transfers weight from one side of the car to the other to reduce body roll. This is the single best piece of equipment to cure the rolly-polies. I bought the Neuspeed 25mm and put it on the middle setting. When I get my other suspension bits installed, I think I will have them put it on the highest setting. It will not affect your ride comfort or your ride height. The only thing you will notice is the car cornering much flatter.
As for mods vs warranty, the dealership cannot void your entire warranty over a couple of mods. They can refuse you warranty service if the item in question is affected by aftermarket parts. (ex: they can't deny window reg warranty service because of sport suspension, but they can deny a blown diverter valve repair if you have a chip that increases turbo boost, and thereby stress on the DV)
Some dealerships are more mod-friendly, and some are right bastids and might send you elsewhere. By law, however, they can't deny service for problems unrelated to modifications. Still, if a dealer refuses you service, it's up to you to lawyer up and prove that the part in question isn't affected by your mods.
For this reason, I am only changing suspension bits and leaving the chip for after my warranty is up.
P.S. The chip increases the turbo boost, giving your car more power. I can get a GIAC chip which will give my 1.8T a bit over 200hp and 245 lb-ft. of torque. Yee-ha.
Will the Triptonic benefit with this chip?
When we say "chip" we are referring to the car's ECU computer chip that controls various functions of the car, like turbo boost, timing, fuel regulation, etc.
The stock ECU from Volkswagen has been optimized for longevity and fuel efficiency.
There are some companies like GIAC, APR, and others who make replacement ECU chips that modify the way your car performs. These usually give your car more power. A replacement ECU is one of the quickest ways to increase power on a turbo car because it increases boost. Usually these companies test the chips to make sure they don't seriously affect your car's reliability, though generally the more power you decide to add, the less reliability you incur.
You can add a chip to a Tiptronic car, but you will want to be sure not to get a chip that is beyond the strength of the car's transmission. You can read on VWVortex in the 1.8Turbo forum for more info. Some people believe the 1.8T can only handle about 250 lb-ft of torque, while others say it can take more (or less).
Just make sure you read up and decide what's best for you.
Let you know when I get back. Isn't this fun???
www.goapr.com
www.giacusa.com
www.speedtuningusa.com
While I was out, a message on the answering machine, a man from Hot Autos said that he could sell the Camry for the amount that I hand in the paper for($4,600). I just sold it for $3,800. He only gets "$50.00" for his trouble. They have a 90% success rate. Maybe a come on, but where was he a week ago? Oh well....but, isn't this fun?
Anyway, I can start driving the Jetta NOW!!! It's just about +10 above with a wind chill of -15 -20 below here in the windy city. Take it out of the garage tomorrow and get it all warmed up and slip into the hot leather seats and grab the B-) for a short test drive around the block, but carefully though. I think I will look for that guy in the hooded jacket, also. Can't get it too dirty on the 1st time out. Is this boring to you guys??? Sorry....As David Letterman says, hee, hee. Stay tuned for more adventures from the guy leaning on the white Camry. :->
Keep the revs under 3000 until the engine warms up to 190. Be nice to your new car.
Hope you got the seat heaters.
True HID is essentially a controlled lightning bolt (continuous electric arc) that is generated in an enclosure then 'piped' to the rear of the headlight housings using fibre-optic 'light pipes'. An HID system costs around $900 USD. (you may order a kit if you wish)
Xenon is not HID! xenon is simply a gas that is a member of the halogen family... thus just a fancy name for a halogen bulb. Please refer to your high-school textbooks for a refresher in the periodic table.
The xenon bulbs that you and I can purchase for $25 are a cheap substitute for a REAL HID headlight system.
I won't put much more than just a couple hundred miles driving around the block tomorrow.
The Halogen lights, you buy that claim to be Xenon, either just claim it, or contains a trace amount of Xenon gas, just to advertise "Xenon". Halogen lights....the ones we refer to using the tungsten filament, uses Argon gas, sometimes mixed with some Nitrogen gas.
The lighting for say street lighting don't use Xenon, but mercury vapor or sodium vapor.
THe automotive world uses Xenon because they start up much quicker compared to the mercury or sodium vapor typically used in street lighting.
The key is the valet key, and the sybmol means service like Chmeeee said. I like having a real valet key (the Jetta's my first car with one) so I can lock the glovebox and trunk from the valet attendant when leaving it there.
I don't think the 1.8T takes that long to warm, not as long as my mom's Bonneville used to, with its big 3.8 V-6 engine. Now that sucker took a while to warm up!
That's explained in your Membership Agreement which is linked on the left side of this page.
Thanks.
There are 2 winners: chmeee and vocus.
Sorry, only 1 ticket, and ties negate the prize.
Maybe next time.
I found out what I wanted about the swaybar, thanks. I am getting the 28 adjustable when I get it.
I don't think there is a cool down issue with these cars, but I do it just to be safe. Also, Chryslers are the ones whose turbos fried because of the "baking"...
What is it about the 1.8T engine (Manual? or Auto?) that you don't like?
Vocus...keeping quiet? Yeah you angered the Mazda crowd enough that they follow you from post to post so that makes sense.
While it doesn't say turbos exclusively, it says something like:
let the engine idle for a few minutes after hard or extended driving to avoid damage due to heat buildup
I liked the instant power that the VR6 had, and the awesome low end torque. I actually like the 1.8T better when I drive it in stock mode, because it's much smoother and the turbo lag isn't as bad. Also the lack of a top end (past 5500 RPM) somewhat bothers me. I do love the "psssht" sound I get from my DV and CAI, but that's about it.
Maybe it's also because it's been misfiring for most of the past 4,000 miles, so that could be one reason why. I go back to the dealer on Tuesday to get another coil pack replaced.
Vocus,
The Blitz DTTDC was around $200. The install is somewhat of a pain in the [non-permissible content removed], but it's not too bad. There have been a lot of complications on 02 and 03 model 1.8Ts while trying to run the turbo timer. Something with the airbag sensors or something...
- Anthony
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