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P.s. - it is legal for me in my state - I checked into it.
P.P.S. - Bumperplugs.com doesn't seem to have ones that will fit the Jetta.
Are you aware that the one on the passenger-side is the air-intake for the intercooler? (TDI and 1.8T engines) Plugging it is not wise.
I'll admit I don't understand the second sentence in the post - either you live in, or moved to, a state that uses one plate. I've never heard of a state that requires two plates where the front one is "optional". They may or may not vigorously enforce the requirement [in CA, it is widely ignored, but also a common ticket if you get stopped for anything else], but that's not the same thing as making it legal.
Anyway, the question is how to cover the holes made in the bumper to mount the front plate.
Any advice about where I can purchase plugs large enough to fit the holes left when I remove the front plate will be appreciated. Thanks.
Does anyone have a VW w/ the OnStar - or have you seen them yet?
The broker told me that finding a car without OnStar was going to become extremely difficult, because almost every GLS was going to come with it. Ha! I have yet to see one. I ultimately found the car I wanted through a different dealer.
Frankly, I can't justify the monthly cost of OnStar, which is more than the cost of my cell phone service. I too have a 120 mi/day commute, but I figure a good cell phone, a GPS, and a AAA membership costs a lot less than OnStar. Just MHO...
An adapter cable with RCA plugs is available in the SkiFi Home installation kit, to support connecting the SkiFi to the audio inputs on a typical home stereo. Hmmm, now if only there were a way to connect those RCA plugs to an RCA compatible input on the Monsoon...
Check out www.rcainput.com. They sell an adapter cable that converts the 12 pin connector for the CD changer (in the back of the Jetta) to an RCA compatible input. At $80, the adapter cable isn't cheap. I am considering connecting my iPod Mini to my Monsoon using one of these adapter cables, given that the audio quality using RF modulators and cassette adapters is subpar.
Obviously, if your car is equipped with a CD changer, this won't work. The other problem has to do with the location of the CD changer cable... it's in the trunk/back of the wagon, and I'm sure you'd prefer to control your SkiFi from the drivers seat. A set of shielded stereo RCA extension cables and a lot of effort to conceal them behind/under interior panels/carpeting/seats should solve that problem.
I have not yet worked up the nerve to try this on my own Jetta wagon, but I have come across a couple of web sites that describe this very process for connecting an iPod to the Monsoon. If it works for an iPod, it should work for the SkiFi.
Check out http://www.nebulight.com/iPod/iPod.htm for an example.
In addition, some of the key features like remote engine diagnostics won't work on non-GM cars. So my On-Star? AAA, AT&T wireless and a spare key.
Or you could try the TrunkMonkey.....check out
www.suburban-trunkmonkey.com - it's a hoot.
Ended up talking them down about $900 from sticker. BUT...when I got home, I went through the owner's manual. In there is a maintenance manual where they stamp and date the various service entries that are recommended. And the first stamp and date? The delivery inspection when the car arrived at the dealer.
My inspection date? 12/4/2003. So the car that sells as soon as they get them - had been sitting at the dealer for 4 months!
Pretty good information to have before negotiating. I recommend checking that date during your test drive.
Our '02 MB C240, purchased in Sept '02 at $30k [against an MSRP of $34.5], was built in Bremen in January of '02, and discounting transit time, had been in dealer stock at least 6 months when we bought...but no one at the dealership was claiming it was precious metal, either...
1. Windows falling in doors
2. Ignition Coil failure
3. Radio failure
4. Purge value failure
5. Check engine light illuminates multiple times and stays on without them being able to determine why.
6. Vibration/Humming noise when driving at highway speeds.
And the list goes on with cosmetic problems (rattles, paint, etc.) The last issue of vibration can not be identified by the dealership and they have attempted to fix the problem four times now with no resolution. They replaced a bearing (2 times, one in each front wheel), the entire tranny, and now the drive axles. We contacted the customer service line for VW and also the dealership GM re: arbitration since the car is a lemon. We have had it beyond one year but it only has 14,000 so we have a definite argument as the issues started last summer (w/in the one year period of the lemon law in our state.
Have any of you encountered these issues? Have any of you gone through the arbitration process or know of someone who has? This is new to us and are not sure what to expect.
Thanks for your help.
KLB
My 16 year old daughter is looking to buy a 2000 or newer Jetta. She'll be using it to tool around town, to school, etc. Although I've owned VW's in the past ('81 Jetta, '79 &'87 Westfallia camper vans)I'm leery of the Jetta's reliability record.
What should she look for and look out for? Are the gas turbo's reliable? She can't afford the VR6.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks in advance!!
Is this a widespread VW problem? Will VW do a touchup under warranty?
With the array of airbags (front, side and in the seat) the VW is one of the safest small cars on the road. (This makes my wife and I happy too.)
The only "problems" she has had with the 2001 golf have been blown headlight and a squeeky drivebelt. (both of which I fixed in the driveway)
She is working 2 jobs and paying her way thru college and needed some reliable transportation because of the VERY high milage on the Prelude. I accompined her to look at used vehicles and the VW was the obvious choice. There is no other small car that even comes CLOSE in the way of quality materials, safety, and longevety.
Although she wanted the 1.8T, I steered her away from that because of the need for PREMIUM fuel. (she cant afford to feed that beast and insurance costs more too)
CAUTION: Watch where you put your hands and fingers when doing this - make sure you're not wearing a tie, gloves, long sleeves, or anything that can get caught in there. Be very careful, but having said that, this has worked for me more times than I can count.
Thanks for your input.
This was due to the additional "load" that the alternator puts on the belt immediatly after starting (to recharge the battery)
This added load, combined with some splashed oil or other substance can cause a "slippery" area on the belt that squeeks as it passes by the alternator pulley.
She also reported that it sqeeked in rainy weather. (water makes the belt more slippery)
To fix this, I removed the belt, filled the bathroom-sink with hot water and added some dish-detergent. Using a scrub-brush, I thoroughly got the bristles in all of the little groves. Then used a sink-full of hot rinse-water and the brush to remove all soap-residue.
I also used some brake-degreaser spray on the pullies to ensure that there was no residue on them either. I turned the belt inside-out before reinstalling. This put 'new' surface area against the pullies.
(Only turn inside out if your belt is 'ambedextrous' and is identical on both sides.)
My daughter has reported that there has been ABSOLUTELY NO SQEEKING AT ALL since I did this.
I found that removing/installing the serpentine belt on the VW to be the absolute easiest of any vehicle I have ever worked on. There is a little "tab" on the belt-tensionor that accepts a wrench. Then you just take the tension off the belt by moving the wrench a couple inches. While holding the tension, use your free hand to remove the belt. After removing belt CAREFULLY release the tensionor.
CAUTION: Make sure you know the routing of the belt before removing it.
A co-worker has a 2000 beetle, i looked at his manual.
Being trained in engineering and working in a VERY technical field (manufacture of computer chips) I often find that NON-technical folks are happy when things *seem* OK. I often wonder if it is a blessing or a curse to actually UNDERSTAND these things and know when things are is *NOT* actually working right.
I said, when I suggested the soap solution, that there is always the possibility that something fundamental is amiss...however, in MY rather extensive experience, most often it's just a little oil that has gotten on the belt. Get rid of the oil, and the micro-slippage stops, along with the noise.
The more serious possibility is that one or more of the pulleys is misaligned - but the consequences there are usually pretty self-evident [i.e. the belt starts to shed linguini-like shards], and the symptoms are actually quite different [moaning or whirring noises, rather than something high-pitched]. If the idler/tensioner is not working properly, of course, then squealing is indeed a symptom, and needs to be looked at....but then, the soap wouldn't work, so the problem would be obvious.
To Colo: Keep an ear on it, and if it comes back, see a professional. Or get your soap out again - your choice. The problem is that the environment under the hood is anything but sanitary, and it is not unusual for the drive belt to get some crud on it that causes the pulleys to slip just enough.
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Thanks for the "lesson" in understanding all things technical bpeebles. Amazing how things have to be so over-technical and analyzed in this day and age.
Sometimes the simplest solution is really the best one, and can be right under your nose... ;-)
Later
Mike
Now, I'm no mechanic, but this does not seem right. This guy may be right; but, it seems to me that the soap trick is just a "band-aid" on a bigger problem. You may have cured the symptom (the squeak), but you did not address the cause (what was making it squeak). As much as the $400 repair may suck, you knew going into your VW transaction that VWs are famous for being high maintenance vehicles at high owner cost. Fixing the problem will be the best way to go for long term vehicle function, IMO.
I'm looking forward to the new Jetta next Spring. We have a 2003 Saturn ION that we are not as happy with as we were with our previous Saturns. My wife's first 2 cars were Jettas and we like them very much. We will check them out when they come out net year. Good luck to you all!
I figured I'd pass along the info.
Just my 2 cents
FIRST: Oone has to understand how JDPower is financed. (What motivates their surveys?)
SECOND: Initial quality says very little about REAL WORLD things such as QUALITY OF MATERIALS or RELIABILITY or LONGEVETY. (It is more a reflection on build and test procedures on the assembly line)
BESIDES: Initial quality is covered by WARANTEE anyway. The Warantee period is there to work out the kinks.
Volkswagen still has the very best QUALITY MATERIALS throughout which are wayyy above other vehicles in the same category.
*)A KIA will rust into oblivion long before a VW even THINKS about starting to rust.
*) The choice of materials in a VW are designed to last a very long time. A KIA is designed to be cheep.
*) Even the coveted HONDA will rust out before a VW would start to show it.
I have owned all of my VWs to well over 120K miles. We have had a few other makes in the family and they all rusted terribly after 6-8 winters of salt-laden roads.
The difference being galvanized steel vs "whatever steel." While I do not know the exact price difference, I would assume that galvanized steel probably costs more.