Volkswagen Jetta 2005 and earlier

ruking1

Start with 1 gal (4 quarts). Then using the owners manual oil level checking procedure, add to make sure the oil level is between the hash marks on the dipstick. (usually a total of 4.25 qts)

bpeebles

2003 TDI wil take 5 quarts if all the oil is drained. Use a 5-quart container of Mobil 1 Truck&SUV 5W40

ruking1

The problem is that depending on how and when you drain the oil, up to 1/2 of a quart still remains. (dry fill is 4.75 qt) That is the real reason for the 4 quart and 1/4 quart back fill for app 4.25 quarts. recommendation.

In addition, there are dire warnings not to over fill the crankcase.

Also if you follow the oem procedure for the dipstick check, you will get a different reading (between the hash marks) from dipstick measurement overnight (just under the bend in the dipstick)

jkobb

My daughter is looking at a Jetta to purchase, its an 03 gas , not diesal . All my buddys tell me not to get it because VW`s are too un-reliable and repairs are more expensive than the other makes. I really like the looks of them although I have never driven one . Should she get it or look at say a Honda or Toyota? :confuse:

mikejlewis

Hi I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to reset my engine light. I was away for awhile and gave my car to my parents. When i got home and took back my car the engine light was on. They took it to a mechanic and after the light was on. Of course he didn't know how he tripped it and had no clue how to turn it off. He thought that wasn't a big deal anyway. I'm basically worried that if something does go wrong with the engine I wont have a clue because the lights always on anyway. Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you.

bpeebles

Both of my daughters have VWs (Golf and NewBeetle)

I also like the safety-factor that VW provides to my daughters. VWs are perhaps the safest small car on the planet. I do not beleive you will find 6 airbags in a Honda nor in a Toyota.

Do not confuse QUALITY with RELIABILITY, they are very distinct things. VWs are built with much more QUALITY materials than most Asian vehicles. VW has been often mentiond as having the "Best interiour materials in it class"

Take it from somone who knows.... Let your daughter guide you in the selection of her vehicle. She will be happer if she makes the final choice. She may not appreceate a car that she is not happy with...just because Dad thinks it will be "more reliable" or cheeper to repair. Besides, she should be helping with repair costs... that is part of the driving experience. ;-)

the 12-year/unlimited milage corrosion warantee is also a BIG plus. (VWs will look good long after an aisan vehicle rusts out)

bpeebles

Use VAG-com ( http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/ )

Also, some auto-parts stores will read the code for you and reset it for free.

mikejlewis

Hi I was wondering if you could tell me how to reset my engine light. I was away for awhile and gave my car to my parents. When i got home and took back my car the engine light was on. They took it to a mechanic and after the light was on. Of course he didn't know how he tripped it and had no clue how to turn it off. He thought that wasn't a big deal anyway. I'm basically worried that if something does go wrong with the engine I wont have a clue because the lights always on anyway. Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you.

sbrentn

Hi Guys,

I purchased a 2005 old body style Jetta last month. While driving, my drivers seat seems to knock around a bit. This can happen when I accelerate, stop, turn etc, but doesn't do it every single time. It doesn't move inches, but I can really feel it and the seat makes a clicking/knocking noise as it moves - sort of like it isn't firmly locked into place. This happens at least 10 times during any driving expereince.

The dealership said this is normal and that the seats should have some "play" in them. I don't think that they should - I've drove plenty of other cars whose seats don't move while driving. The dealerhip took the car on a test drive and said they couldn't find anything abnormal. It's starting to drive me a little bit crazy, actually. Does anyone elses seat do this?

This forum is great, btw. I'm glad to be a member!

-Brent

wai

Sorry to know that your brand new vehichle has this problem and I understand your frustration of driving in an unstable seat.
My 04 Jetta have 5000 Miles on it is not experiencing this problem. I suggest you go to other nearby dealerships to let them fix it under warranty.

allhorizon

I would like to second the safety advantages of the Jetta (or most recent VWs and Audis, for that matter). I live in a somewhat hilly area with lots of curves and steep embankments - posted mileage is 25. A few weeks back four teenagers had a bit too much fun late at night in their Jetta. They lost control at around 60mph, rolled over 4-5 times, and landed downhill on someone’s porch, hitting the house slightly. One girl had a mild concussion that required a few hours of observation at the hospital; the other three were fine without treatment. The sheriff said never before had he seen someone come out alive after an accident like that...

flaca

Just got a new 05 Jetta. I was wondering why the doors do not have the guards to protect it from dings? I saw photos in other web sites that shows the jetta with side guards. I would have perfered to have those guards. I hate getting dings!

wai

I don't think the side-stripe will protect your car any better. Nowadays, if you park your Jetta besides a big van or SUV. If those drivers are not considerate enough, when they open the door wide, the higher door will definitely hit your side of the car. I think the best way is to park at the end unit of the car park or park near a four doors small car and make sure they have no child seats at the back seat near the side of your car.

Kirstie_H

A reporter hopes to interview recent VW or Audi model buyers aged 30-40 who are first time buyers of a VW Group car and willing to discuss their profession/income; and recent VW or Audi buyers aged 30-40 who are repeat buyers of the brand and willing to discuss their profession/income. Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com by Wednesday, July 27, 2005, and provide your daytime contact information.

jettgirl

Hi everyone! I'm new here . I was wondering if anyone could help me out?

I got in a lil accident and have decided to put a body kit on my 99 jetta (i was thinking of doing it anyway, but now i have a good reason). I found this website from google that has some kits for pretty cheap, but i wanted to see if anyone has bought one of these kits. I want to do a lil research before i spend all of my money all this! I want to get it done before I go back to college for the year.

Also, any opinions on which kit I should get are welcome!! The "615" or "915"? (leaning towards 615....) http://www.paautoracing.com/body_kits/volksjetta99.htm

Thanks!! :P

extremeproaudi

Re: I got in a lil accident and have decided to put a body kit on my 99 jetta (i was thinking of doing it anyway, but now i have a good reason). I found this website from google that has some kits for pretty cheap, but i wanted to see if anyone has bought one of these kits. I want to do a lil research before i spend all of my money all this! I want to get it done before I go back to college for the year.
Also, any opinions on which kit I should get are welcome!! The "615" or "915"? (leaning towards 615....)

1) It depends on what is actually damaged. The body kits only include (2) lower side skirts, front bumper, and lower valance for the rear factory bumper. If the factory body parts that the kit connects to are damaged, they will have to be replaced also.
2) Our shop installs alot of body kits. From my experience, no body kit ever fits exactly right, however, the kits that go for $1200 and up usually fit better with less modification.
3) Don't forget to add $300-500 for painting the kit (all kits come in primer.)
4) If you have a turbo, you must make sure the intercooler doesn't get obstructed (the 615 would work best if you did have a turbo).
5) I personally like the original look of the jetta, so I would choose the 915...however, the 615 looks a lot more racey. Your car, your preference, your decision

gatz84

i have a 97 GLX vr6 and for some reason my speedometer keeps bouncing up and down like the meter hand keeps going down to 0 mph and back up to normal mph while im driving, i cant tell whether its gonna need to get fix or how? anyone please give me some answers to why my speedometer keeps togging.

awall22

Hey,
I have a 2001 GLS Jetta (I4) and i would like to know some information and pricing for swapping a vr6 engine in the car.

pat

Hi and welcome. We have an Engine Removal discussion where some very knowledgeable folks hang out. You might want to also post your message there while you are waiting for some input here.

600kgolfgt

Probably the speedometer sensor that's attached to the transmission..

brianh3

I have a 6 disc cd changer in the trunk.
At 1st when I clutched the cd would blank out then come back on when I let off the clutch.
Now the deck is not recognizing the cd changer. The cd changer has power when I eject the magazine it comes out and when I reinsert it it cycles.
The deck says no cd changer though. Ive checked the connection at the changer and its good.
Ive checked the connections at the deck and they seem ok but Im going to go over that again.
The fact that it was blanking out indicates a short.
I can buy a new changer but could it be just that aspect of the deck thats failed ?
The deck amp and speakers are factory compatible so if I change the deck I have to buy a new amp as well.
I dont want to waste my money.
The feed from the deck to the changer is buried under floor guards and seats etc plus the wiring is insulated so chafing seems unlikely.

Any directional advice out there.
I miss my tunes !
__________________
"The wise man can pick up a grain of sand and envision a whole universe. But the stupid man will just lay down on some seaweed and roll around in it until he's completely draped in it. Then he'll stand up and go hey, I'm Vine Man."

formulavee

Hello All,

I just purchased a 2003 Jetta Wolfsburg 1.8T with 27,000. It is in top condition and I paid $13,200. I am fairly confident I got a great deal. Anyhow, I was wondering if there is anything I need to know about this car, as far as maintaining it. I am aware synthetic oil is the way to go. Any other advice? Does this model year have an extended warranty above the normal 4 yr 50K miles?

Thanks!

jeffyscott

Does this model year have an extended warranty above the normal 4 yr 50K miles?

Standard Mfr Warranty:

Basic: 4 yr. / 50,000 mi.
Drivetrain: 5 yr. / 60,000 mi.
Roadside: 4 yr. / 50,000 mi.
Rust: 12 yr. / Unlimited mi.

http://www.edmunds.com/used/2003/volkswagen/jetta/100274786/standardwarranties.html?tid=ed- munds.u.prices.leftsidenav..11.Volkswagen*

formulavee

Thanks Jeffyscott.

skotchristian

Two Part Question regarding 2001 Jetta Air Bag On-Off Switch

I have a 2001 Jetta GLS VR6;

1. Is there a way to turn off (on/off switch) the Passenger Front and/or Front Side air bags?

2. If not... is there a way to install an on/off switch that will turn off the Passenger Front and/or Front Side air bags?

THANKS TO ANYONE!

kylep86

This may sound stupid, but i have a few questions about my jetta
A. on the shifter, (i have an automatic w/tiptronic) it counts down 4, 3, 2. what are those gears used for? i usually put it in 3rd when going down a steep hill to save on the brakes, is that right?
B. When using tiptronic can i be driving and then just change it? or does it have to be in a stopped position?
Thanks.

jeffyscott

it counts down 4, 3, 2. what are those gears used for?

Whatever you want to use them for...one example might be if you want to manually downshift before passing on a 2-lane highway...maybe you would downshift to 4. If you drive in triptronic then you would shift up and down through the gears like a manual.

i usually put it in 3rd when going down a steep hill to save on the brakes, is that right?

Well, this is certainly something that can be done with any transmission to maintain speed on steep downgrade to avoid overheating or excessive use of the brakes.

When using tiptronic can i be driving and then just change it?

Yes, you can go in and out of triptronic and shift from one gear to another in triptronic.

or does it have to be in a stopped position? No

kylep86

i'm not sure if i made this clear but when i say "When using tiptronic can i be driving and then just change it?" i mean can i be driving regularly and then shift over to tiptronic? Thanks, sorry for any confusion.

jeffyscott

Yes, you can go in or out of tiptronic mode while you are driving.

dancerman

Ditto. I do this all the time with our 2002 VR6.

gatz84

i just changed my battery and oil for my 97 GLX jetta, and need help on how to insert my code to unlock my stereo what do i push/hold to get me to the screen where i can input my code to unlock.

krisalps

After a heavy rain storm late last week, there was a pool of water on the driver's side floor when i got into the car, still streaming from the hood release lever. Last night, my "check engine light" came on.

I spoke to VW America and was told that the sunroof drain hoses run past that very area, tend to get clogged & aren't visible or reachable and now my concern should be fuses & electrical issues. Are they kidding me?!

I now have to take it in for a diagnostics test to the tune of over $150.00. Could this be a warranty item if it's their poor design? I bought an extended warranty when i bought the car because i already had fears.

thanks

krisalps

It might be too late to help you on this, but you are not required to have this work done by a VW dealer--it simply has to be someone certified to use the equipment they do to run checks. VW America told me this. I took mine to a guy who works on german cars and paid half of what the dealership charged and sent in the paperwork to VW, called them later & they said i met the requirement to keep my warranty in place.

natewins11

I was wondering where the ecu is located in a 94 jetta gl. thanks,nate

westsider

New member, first post. We just bought a 2005.5 Jetta TDI, and we had questions about oil changes. We asked the service department if a synthetic oil made by Mobil or Valvoline or Pennzoil would do. They said no, our ONLY option is to use a synthetic oil that meets VW's specifications. Which, of course, is the only one the dealer's service department uses (it's made by Castrol, and they also told us we aren't able to buy it anywhere but from them). We wanted to buy a single quart (or liter), because the owner's manual says the engine may burn a little oil during the break in period. They wanted $14.00 for this magic stuff. At that point, we smelled smoke, and it wasn't coming from the car.

Is there something else out there we can use without voiding warranties or freezing engines up? Both my wife and I can change oil on a normal car. Is this something we can do ourselves?

And do we HAVE to go to a dealer to have recommended or required maintenance done, or are there such things as "Volkswagen certified service centers" out there that may be less expensive?

Thanks...

600kgolfgt

If you want to maintain the warranty on the engine, get it changed at the dealer. VW just came out with a synthetic motor oil specifically designed for the TDI, 1.8T and 2.0T engines - and the only place the oil is available is at the dealership.

As far as the break-in period is concerned - the VW manual is correct - the engine will burn oil during the break-in period until the cylinder rings seat properly - usually until around 10K miles.

bpeebles

Federal law protects you from having to go to a dealer to maintin warantee. It is called the "Magnuson Moss Warranty Act" You can read aout it in your owners manual or online. ( http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/magnusonmoss.htm )

Your 2005 TDI has a Pumpe Duse engine which REQUIRES VW 505.01 spec oil. This does not mean you have to go to a VW dealership. You can get VW 505.01 spec oil from other sources.

Here is one I found with a quick search for 505.01
http://www.motul.com/autoresellers/

If you would like to sign a petition asking MOBIL to bring its VW 505.01 spec oil to North America, check this out :
http://www.petitiononline.com/vw50501/petition-sign.html

vwbell

I recently bought a 2003 Jetta 2.0. I bought the 2.0 because a friend had a complete turbo kit for the engine at a much cheaper price than buying a 1.8T. The only problem is that after doing some research I really like the idea of a supercharged 2.0, although it cost a little more. I understand the pros and cons of each but I was wondering if someone had some good ideas for a supercharged 2.0.

jeffyscott

I am sure there are other options, but personally I would rather spend the extra dollars to have service done at the dealer at least during the warranty period. After spending $20,000 on the car, I am not going to worry about a few bucks more to be sure to maintain warranty coverage and avoid any hassle should there be a major problem during the warranty period.

During the 50,000 mile power train warranty period you will have 6 oil changes...how much are you going to save by running around looking for a better deal, maybe $100-200???

boombasticata

Hello:

The temperature gauge in my 95 Jetta III 2.0 shot up after I took a highway exit (I'd been going 70 mph) and was going about 30 mph. This was after about 30 minutes of fast highway driving. I pulled over, let it cool down for ten minutes, and then made the rest of the 10-minute, stop-and-go drive home no problem.

No hissing or steaming in the engine, but coolant hoses and overflow chamber were noticeably hot to the touch. I noticed radiator fan was not running when I stopped car both times. Radiator fan fuse OK. Is it radiator fan for sure? Any suggestions? Thanks.

600kgolfgt

It may be the 3-speed radiator fan switch mounted on the lower part of the radiator.

ejenkins

krisalps-What happened with this problem? I just had the same problem last week with the water on the drivers side (streaming thru the hood release) and have it scheduled to go in next week. Was it a costly repair? My check engine light hasn't come on yet but now I am concerned. Thanks.

natewins11

Hi i was installing a new maf in my 94 2.0 when not paying attention i plugged in the plug into the maf upside down. i dont know how but i did. i tryed starting the car with it plugged in like this and it obviosly didnt start. so i was looking under the hood and noticedit was upside down and fixed it. try starting again...nothing. It started fine before i touched it but i was wondering crossing the wires in the plugwith the maf would affect. I think it could be the ecu but im not sure. Thanks, Nate

jettabiker

On my Jetta (99.5 4th Gen) the radio display reads "CODE" after you cut battery power. You have two trys to input the correct code using the station preset buttons 1-4, if you don't get the code right it locks down for one hour.

That one hour is time with the ignition key in the on position which means you need to drive the car for an hour. Once the code is correct your radio will go back to normal operation. This should all be in your owners manual, again your 3rd gen may have a different code system.

Hope this helps,
Abraham

jettabiker

Hi everyone, new member and first time VW owner. I've been quite happy with my Jetta until I've had a mysterious check engine light I can't seem to beat. I took it in for a free AutoZone scan and they diagnosed it as bad primary AND secondary O2 sensors.

I picked up two new sensors from the dealer and installed them both without any trouble, yet the CEL persisted. I had the codes cleared by my friendly local non-dealer import mechanic, who found a very cracked vacuum line from my brake booster to the back of the intake plenum. This line is about 1/2" I.D. and has a built-in check valve. This leak was very noticable and in hindsight I could hear it in the car with the windows up.

I STILL have a CEL showing even after the line was replaced and codes cleared... still shows up as a lean condition, I forget the exact error code #. Should I just spring for the VAG-COM and start clearing and reading them myself or is there some other common part that's prone to failure?

Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks ahead of time,
Abraham

p100

I had a similar thing happen with my 99 Mazda 626 V6. The car ran fine at high speeds and A/C was blowing cold. Then as I slowed down and sat in traffic, the temperature gauge shot up and my A/C quit working. As I accelerated to a higher speed, the temperature went down and A/C started working properly again.

What I discovered was this: There are two electric fans in this car. They both turn on and run when the A/C is on. I noticed that one of them, the A/C condenser cooling fan, was not running. One fan out was enough to cause the car to run hotter (no overheating , no steam, etc), and for the A/C to shut down due to higher coolant temperature.

I unpluged the subject fan harness connector, and connected a 12 volt battery to the terminals. The fan motor turned on. So the fan was good. Next step was to check the A/C fuse and relay. they were OK. Next I found out where the condenser fan realy was. That was my problem. Something was rattling inside the relay. $ 10 for a new relay and everything is back the normal. Each electric fan on this car has its own relay. The A/C was shutting down when the coolant temperature rose to high level. I guess this is built-in protection feature in the system.

I hope this helps a bit in your case. You can test the fan easily by using two leads, connecting them to a 12 V battery and connecting the leads to the fan harness plug terminals. If the fan motor is good, it will turn on.
You can also test the relay by using an ohmmeter and a 12 Volt battery source. You just need to know which terminals to check the continuity on in both energized and deenergized position. A shop manual helps here.

lukef3

yeaterday, i put down a deposit on a jetta 2.5 .got in the car with the salesperson and check engine light went on when i put it in drive car jumped and changing to other gears the same. he had it checked out and told me transmission sensor needed to be changed but no 2005 specialist available so it is buying me a couple of days to decide....not sure what to make of this or if he is even telling me the truth, does this sound like a big problem or a reason to walk away ,,,this is the last 2005 automatic on their lot and wonder if this is reason

dpas

I have a '99 Passat which leaks in the driver side floor when it rains or even when I wash my car. Water is not visible at first, but it collects under the carpeting and soaks the floor after a big rain. I try to never leave it in the rain now and take care washing it, but I have already sustained damage to the electrical systems including the power door locks and the fuel door lock release button. I paid VW dealer $340 for diagnostic work to tell me that the comfort module (which is under the left driver's side foot panel) was submerged in water. Further diagnostic would be expensive and I decided not to pursue. Anyone experience similar problems?

bpeebles

Do you have sunroof -- and if so, make sure its drain-hoses are clear. The most common reason for water on the floor is plugged-up drain-hose for the sunroof.

600kgolfgt

On the Jetta III, There's only one electric fan. The second one is driven by a small drive belt attached to the first fan. If the drive belt is missing, you have found the problem.