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Comments
LOL 8-)
Seriously, I am not sure I know what you mean by the guage "jumping". It seems to me that , under warantee, they would just replace the fuel sending unit. It is easilly accessable from underneath the rear seat and would make the dealership look good by actually TRYING to solve your problem.
WHO CARES IF THEY HAVE NEVER HEARD OF IT BEFORE??? That is a totally irrellevent statement. Did they really say that? Their job is to MAKE THE CUSTOMER HAPPY... not recall if they have seen a particular problem before.
As long as you MADE SURE that your problem was documented... they are under the gun to fix it AT ANYTIME IN THE FUTURE.
I also have to say that I travel 80 miles to get to my dealership (and drive past 2 other VW dealerships along the way)
They even have offered to COME GET my car and leave a loaner in its place. (but there is a fee for that service)
Also, for anyone located in Atlanta; I am looking for a reliable mechanic to look at possibles and to maintain.
I assume you are not talking about that?
Personally, I would be nervous to buy a 2000 jetta. VW had many pronblems with Jettas, especially early model years (ie: 2000). For various problems on Jettas.
Where are you considering buying this car from?
Are we making a mistake here? Our Alty and Sentra have been great, with my Sentra only having 1 trim piece come loose and 2 warranty issues fixed in a very timely manner.
Any advice would be great. Cause if she likes ethe GL, we might have a silver/charcol one in the garage at the end of the week. With the dealer cash , we were quoted $15,724 plus t, t &l, as there is $500. dealer cash back. Any thoughts or comments...? Be brutally honest here guys...PLEASE!
The Sandman
A "Recall" is most often a SAFETY related item that the federal government has FORCED a auto-manufacturer to fix. Somtimes, a "Recall" may be an EMMISSIONS related item.
Lets not forget that the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE covers the O2 sensors. (not the normal VW warantee). For the year 2000, I beleive the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE is for 10-years 100,000 miles.
My suggestion, READ YOUR FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE booklet that came with the automobile.
i believe the stock is a 120 degree... an auto parts store will have a proper listing in their books. As far as putting a higher degree thermostat than what was factory, I would advise strongly not to. If you want more performance and reliability, I would even go lower than what was stock - Unless you live in a cold climate, where it may affect your interior heating.
I refilled the cooling system but after running for about 5 minutes the low level warning comes on and a short time later it boils.
I refilled the system and was watching the reservoir and for the first few minutes the return to the reservoir was peeing back to the reservoir but it would stop for a short time then spurt for a little while then stop again.
What do you think the problem is?
Is it the water pump?
I have not done a bleedown test-should I before I go any further?
I have already replaced the thermostat while I had everything else apart.
Check it often and keep it topped up. It should eventually work all the air out of itself.
Please help with any suggestions. She really wants it, but I'm not quite sure about the realiability and prefer the Mazda6 or the Accord.
HELP!
TIA folks. Got a price from the local dealer, if they remain true to their word, for the Value Package Jetta for $18,595 plus T, T & L from the floor salesman and $18,999 from the internet guy. I did specify that we had to have automatic tranny, mats & keyless entry. Think they are playing with us...the internet price is usually cheaper! We should know if we buy soon, as she said she will decide between now and the July 4th weekend. Waiting for the wife to tell me to go in and negotiate, as she needs a final test drive. I will only drive the particular car she wants to check for any alignment/tire issues or radio problems etc. It's her car, her decision, her $!
The Sandman :confuse:
paying for premium fuel, then you should consider trading the car for a naturally-aspirated car that runs on regular fuel.
I purchased a 2003 Wolfsburg 1.8T Jetta brand new almost two years ago knowing that it requires premium fuel. So that's what I use.
Sorry... The stock thermostat is 195 degree. normal operating temp should be the center of your gauge. If it's operating past 3/4 of your gauge, I would have it serviced soon. Possible culprits of overheating may be air in the system, bad radiator cap, or your motor running lean.
Anyone have this car and how do y'all like it? We've always been Japanese brand buyers and thinking about going over to VW. It's basically between the Mazda6 i and the Jetta VE.
Any posts would be helpful to get me over my hesitance to go with VW, as I've heard and read horror stories about problems. We've been very lucky with our past Nissan's and Toyota's, and I want to get her a "reliable" car that's cheap to keep and will be a good "appliance" for her, as she looks at a car as an appliance and doesn't have the passion that I do!
Since the car is for her, I am staying out of it, as any husband knows..."if she ain't happy...your life will be hell"! It's really hard to do this, but I don't want to be blamed for her buying the "wrong car".
So, let me hear some good things about the new Jetta to ease my mind.
Thanks all!!!
The Sandman :confuse:
Also, do not forget that there are trade-offs when you start to consider different brake-pad materials. Case-in-point, the "hi performance" pads that have superiour braking power NEED TO BE WARMED UP before they start to work... that is not a very good choice for a family-car.
Some brake-pad material is so aggressive that your rotors will be trashed in short order. Other pad-material will create MASSIVE amounts of black dust that makes your wheels look aweful.
Personally, I prefer CERAMIC-based pad material because of the low dusting and long-wearing performance it offers
Personally, I want to spend AS LITTLE TIME AS POSSIBLE filling the tank on my car. I fill to the bottom of the filler neck and can travel about 650-700 miles till I need to stop for fuel again. Stopping to get fuel before it is near empty is simply a waste of my precious time.
I used to think that I would save $$ by heating my home with wood. The firewood is cheaper than burning oil and installing a wood stove would only cost a few thousand dollars.... YA RIGHT... I am soooo glad that I thought it though. After more calculations, it was obvious that my TIME was worth much more than what it takes to cut, split, carry, stack...etc. I found it was much more efficent for me to work a few hours overtime per week to help pay for the fuel-oil to heat my home. Besides, I prefer to NOT have to get dressed and go outside when it it -18F at 2AM just to get some firewood for the woodstove.
comfortable seats (Mazdas, like most, we find to be too small) include height adjustment for both.
safety...lots of air bags, ABS, great 4 wheel disk brakes, good crash tests (overall top rated by IIHS), ESP (optional on our VE), weight (all else being equal heavier is safer)
seems spacious for its size
ride is a nice balance between handling and comfort
power is adequate for us and is there right away...good torque at low rpms
six speed trans coasts at about 2200 rpm @ 70 mph
I don't know that this is the car to buy if you want an "appliance" though. It does come with a 4 year 50,000 mile warranty and 5 year 60,000 mile power train warranty.
We are leaning towards the dark blue color, though I like the charcol color, as she has it on her current Altima. Car never looks quite as dirty as some other colors and she does not take car of her cars...has never washed 1 yet. She leaves me to get them detailed and cleaned out and take it for any service. Luckily, the VW store is about 2 miles away, it's a nice loooong walk, but doable if they give no loaners for warranty work. Will definitely inquire about loaner cars when we buy it.
Am pleased to hear that your wife loves her car. Let mine read the write ups in "Motortrend" and "Car and Driver" last night to help her in her decision process and to really see the dash at night with that "cool" blue color.
We plan to buy before the July 4th weekend eventhough there are no current incentives on this brand new model. Would rather wait on a 2006, we will just have to wait and see, as I want to put no more $ into the Altima at this point.
Thanks so much bud for the positive response...it will help me with my "issues" about the reliability and all.
Thanks again!
The Sandman
1) Purchase the fuel sending unit, and if your car has high mileage (> 130K) purchase a new fuel pump (the sending unit and fuel pump are installed in your car as a unit). While you're at it, purchase some small hose clamps (the kind where you use a screwdriver to tighten - for hoses anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4" in diameter) - the clamps used in the sending unit hoses are more than likely to be clips that are rendered useless after removal. www.germanautoparts.com is a good place to purchase the sending unit and/or the fuel pump. The clamps you can pick up at any auto parts or hardware store.
2) Once you have purchased the unit, disconnect the battery (make sure you have your radio's activation code handy before doing so - you will need it to take the radio out of "SAFE" mode when you re-connect the battery).
3) The fuel sending unit can be accessed by lifting the carpeting in the trunk and locating the fuel access panel (usually black in color and secured by 3 phillips screws). Remove the access panel.
4) Disconnect the wiring harness from the fuel sending unit.
5) Remove the two hoses from the sending unit and position them out of the way. At this time you will want to replace the hose clips with the hose clamps that you purchased.
6) Unscrew the large plastic nut (kind of like a hollowed-out jar lid) from the top of the sending unit.
7) You should now be able to remove the sending unit/fuel pump assembly.
8) Installation is the reverse of these steps.
Hope this helps...
less during a specific day has more customers to fuel up their cars?
Also I believed every grade of gas has a different ingredients ( not just Octane cotent), how can the gas wholesalers mix up two grades of gas and get the exact octant content for 89 Octane and 93 Octane? These different grades will be produced in the refinery factory before distributing to the wholesaler.
"Have you noticed that the gas station which post 0.05/G" difference in the cost of gas. I understand you are on a budget and thats a good thing, but lets look at this LOGICALLY.....$.05 is a savings of only $.70 per fill up.
My wife liked the Graphite Blue also, and that is what she bought.