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Comments
THANKS!
Also, for some reason, my door ajar light comes on very frequently even though the door is closed. If I open the door while driving, then the door ajar light turns off!?! Just curious, have you (or anyone else) experience the same problem? Thanks...
I think I agree that I'm not sure I'd buy another one either....I thought VW had a great reputation? The car's been fun, but quite a headache too!
I know that my Jetta WILL automaticlly re-lock if the keyfob is used to unlock it and the DRIVERS DOOR is not opened within a few minutes.
Some folks have reported that the door-open-sensor may not be working and will cause the kind of problem you describe. (does opening the drivers door turn on the interior lights?)
I am looking to buy a 2005 Jetta GLS (not the redesigned one). I know it carries 1.9% apr. Can these cars be bought below invoice with the introduction of the new Jetta? Any good deals people are getting?
ps - I am posting this here since the 'prices paid' forum is not as active as this - I am looking to buy this car within a couple of weeks.
Thanks!
By the way, I test-drove the new (redesigned) 2005 Jetta with Automatic transmission with Tiptronic. I didn't like it as much as the old one. It's a much bigger car- more like a Nissan Altima- and to me, it felt much "lunkier" and more isolated from the road than the "old" 2005 model. Because of the styling changes, the windows were smaller and more narrow and it didn't feel as airy inside.
for what it's worth - in my test drive i thought the new jetta handled much better than the old one (i have had two IV Jettas) while keeping its supple ride.
my disappointment would stem from some visible cost cutting in the interior. the lower grade trunk lining for example. i wasn't too happy with the wind noise from the A pillars either.
The car looks good and performs fairly well, but I'm concerned about future reliability especially since the measly 2 year 24000 mile warranty expired and I experienced so many problems so far. I'm thinking of trading in the car to buy a new car (not a Jetta). :mad:
Can anyone give me some step-by-step on how to remove and replace the rear cupholder on a 95 Jetta?
1) What is this coil problem that people have been talking about? My Jetta has been experiencing the same symptoms -- the first minute or 2 of each drive, the car is slow to respond to the gas pedal, kind of sputters....does this mean I'm looking at a $850 repair?
2) My ESP light comes on every once in a while, and hitting the ESP button on the dashboard doesn't make it go away. The light goes away by itself between trips.
3) My temperature/coolant light came on this morning, even though the temp gauge was right in the middle like it should be.....the light blinked all the way to work.
1) The "coil problem" is only on the 1.8T and only for a specific timeframe where some bad coils got released from the coil-factory (NOT manufacrured by VW)
2) My ESP also comes on somtines when starting cold. I can replicate the proiblem WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE by lettting the diagnostics run thru. I have done a lot of research and beleive it is the "steeringwheel angle sensor".
The dealership replaces the "steeringwheel angle sensor" but the ESP diagnostics still fail occasionally.
3) A BLINKING coolant light simply indicates low coolant in the resavour. This is a VERY common problem in VWs. (most cars DO NOT HAVE a coolant level sensor) Add a splash of distilled water and the problem will be gone.
1) I have a 1.8T from 2003 -- if I do indeed have a bad coil, is it something that needs to be changed? Or will a "bad coil" eventually cause bigger problems than the initial shuddering I experience when starting up?
2) This sounds like just a faulty sensor/light....no action needed, right?
3) I will take care of the coolant problem right away!
It is such a relief to be able to find information on my car before deciding what to do. Thanks again!
Thanks.
It would not hurt to have the dealer look at it (I assume you are still under warantee)
2) I am not even sure if it is a faulty sensor... like I said, my dealer REPLACED the 'steering wheel angle sensor' which apparently required tearing apart the dashboard and the ESP diagnostics still may fail on cold mornings. I can make it go away by just wiggling the steering wheel and re-running the diagnostics.
3) Let us know how that works out for you.
I feel like an idiot, but I did probably the stupidest thing in the world I just purchased a 2000 VW Jetta GLX VR6 without having my own mechanic look at it first. It had 79,235 miles on it when I got it. I purchased it from a local car dealer not a volkswagen dealer. They seemed genuine and for real, they provided me with a carfax report and showed me the papers showing it had been serviced and maintenanced.I was a fool and I trusted them. I'm not saying they're lieing however since I've had it, it has shown me otherwise. Now I'm pretty new with VW this is my first one, actually my first car ever. So I'm hoping someone that knows something can help me. I've only had it for almost 3 months. It's gonna end up costing me $12,000 and that's not including the $1,300 I put down, which I now know from researching that I was way over charged. I leased it on a first time buyers loan with 10.5% APR from a credit union. I pay $265 a month for 5 years. I bought it "AS IS" and the factory warranty expired at 80,000 miles and I didn't purchase the extended warranty.I'm not a very smart cookie, am I? It now has 83,140 miles on it. Here's my problem: When I brought it home and filled the tank for the first time, I reset the thing where you can keep track of how many miles you've driven. When it got down to E I had only got 230 miles to the tank. Almost everyone I talked with told me that I should get way better gas mileage in that type of car. I only use premium gasoline, but I went to AutoZone and purchased Octane Boost and tried to see if that would help my gas situation.NOPE. In fact it got worse. I kept reseting and checking the milage as it droped from 230 miles to 200 miles to the tank. Then yesterday morning when it reached E before I filled up and reset the miles I noticed that I had only got 194miles to the tank. Confused and Upset I took it to a local mechanic that specializes in import vehicles. When I told him my problem he checked under my hood and then plugged this computer type thing under my dash by the steering wheel.After a minute went by two things popped up on the screen. The first one said my 02 censor was completely dead "out". The second one said my CAT System was functioning insuficiently. The guy told me I would need to replace the 02 Censor for $200. If the catalytic converter had gone bad that was $1,500 to replace. He also started naming things I needed to replace for my 80,000 mile maitenance. Spark Plugs at $28-$34 a piece, and a couple of other things. He's talking almost $2K-$3K to fix my car and I just got. I went to the dealers and no help there. I thought they'd help in someway they were nice and replaced for free a radiator hose that cracked 3 days after I got it.Is this mechanic over charging me or is this the normal price range? And why did my car break so soon? Are these things typical in the 2000 jetta? Also never once did or to this day have any lights or symbols come up telling me to check or service engine, so could this guy be blowing smoke?Also I read on another site that in 2000 they had a problem with a few Jetta's. They said the owners who had, had their right rear tire blow experienced problems with faulty feul tanks. It just so happens that about 3 weeks ago when driving home on the freeway my right rear tire blew. Are these facts true or false? Do I have any options? I just don't think it's right that I should have to spend almost $3,000 to fix it when I haven't even had it for 90 days and whats wrong with it was like that before I bought it and when I bought it. The dealer never mentioned a bad 02 censor and CAT System, Huh, wonder why? lol. I still have the temporary registration sticker in my window. Is there anything legally I can do? Or at least something I can do to save some money? Please somebody help me with some answers. I'm only 19 and I don't know much about cars let alone VW's and niether does anyone I know. I'm so confused and scared!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So far i've put over a thousand miles on it and love the car. Its Platinum Grey, black leather interior, heated seats, multi-function steering wheel, power everything, sunroof, 17's rims. The car is amazing. I decided on the jetta because i had a 2000 Isuzu Trooper, and trust me coming home for breaks, and what not costed me an arm and a leg (2 1/2 hours, 140 miles one way). It was also eating oil so i figured i should update and leave that problem for the next buyer.(fyi i'm 19). So i thought, what the heck, i'll ditch the SUV scene and look around for a car. The only other car i considered was a 2001ish Saab 9-3 se. Only problem was the price of those Saabs were the cost a 04 jetta fully loaded. The Turbo was also a must when i was looking for a car, because i wanted the power on highways. Well if anyone could tell me anything about 04 jettas that would be great. So far i've been putting premium in it, and plan on changing the oil every 3,000 miles. Anything i should know about maintence on the turbo? anything info would be great. After reading about the 99,00,01,02 jettas i hope by 04 they worked all the quirks out. Keep it real VDub drivers. i'll post a picture sometime for ya'll. -Kyle
1) Use A VW 502.00 spec synthetic oil ONLY - no ifs, ands or buts. Due to the amount of heat produced, a turbocharged engine should not use conventional oil under ANY circumstances. Here's a link to the VW's list of 502.00 motor oils:
http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf
I have a 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T. And to make sure the oil has been changed with the proper 502.00 spec motor oil, I buy the oil myself and have the dealer put it in. If you buy the oil yourself, keep EVERY receipt from the oil purchase, and keep every receipt from the dealer's service department. They will normally write "used customer's oil" on the service receipt. I go one step further by writing "customer's oil - Castrol Syntec 5w-40 - VW 502.00 Specification" on the service receipt. That way I keep myself covered in the event any warranty related issues should arise. And at 47K on my Wolfsburg, I've had absolutely no problems with the car whatsoever.
Oh yeah, another thing - use VW spec oil filters and stay away from Fram, Purolator or any of the over-the-counter aftermarket filters. VW spec filters have the necessary steel check valves that not only aid in regulating the proper oil pressure, but also prevent dirty oil from flowing back into the engine upon shutdown.
The aftermarket filters have check valves, too - only they are made of rubber - which is inferior to the steel check valves VW filters use.
2) After a high-speed drive, make sure you let your car idle for 2 minutes before shutting off the engine. This will allow the engine temperature to stabilize and properly cool the turbo (and the critical turbo bearing), and minimize (if not eliminate) the formation of sludge in the engine.
And - Very Important:
3) Do not let your car exceed 5000 miles between oil changes. Change it on or before 5000 miles - and not one mile over. Since your car is still under warranty, you supply the oil and have the dealer do the oil change (so they use the proper oil filter - See #1.).
That way both you and the dealer have your cars' service record on file.
Follow these three guidelines - and the turbo will not be an issue - as it should last as long as your engine does.
:shades:
Okay, I might not be much help as I have an 04 GLS TDI, BUT...this sticks out in my mind...
I just purchased a 2000 VW Jetta GLX VR6
How long ago did you purchase it? Most dealers (but not all), even "But Here Pay Here" lots have a ninety day warranty on the vehicles they sell. Check your paperwork, it might have that warranty........if not it might have a mileage warranty, usually 1000, 3000 or 5000 miles. If it is a mileage warranty you might be out of luck since most of those (99%) fall into the 1000 and 3000 miles category.
I am glad you took it to an import specialist, but do you know if it was a European specialist or just a generic import generalist? I take mine to a German Import specialist, they even sought out and use the required oil (VW 505.01) for me (I was the first customer with a TDI-PD engine, the rest were 03 and older TDIs). I feel very comfortable there because the only cars they work on are VW, Mercedes, Audi, and Porsche and they have a mechanic whose sole specialty is diesel, namely VW and Mercedes diesels.
This means that their mechanics can spend the time to get to know the german cars inside and out. If I were you, I would try and find a German (or European if German is too specific for your area) Import mechanic in your area.
194 miles to the tank...that translates probably to somewhere around 17MPG or so. While not GREAT by any stretch of the imagination, I don't think that it'd be too hard to do with a GLX VR6. EPA ratings were 19/26 brand new. If you are hard on the accelerator, I could see a genuine 17mpg. OTOH, I think you should be able to average 23-24MPG, which would be somewhere around 260-275 miles to the tank before you need to add fuel. Are you letting the car idle for any extended period of time?
Spark Plugs at $28-$34 a piece
Spark plugs for your car...for the plug itself run in the neighborhood of $3-4 a piece...not including installation...
Bosch Platinum +4 (pregapped) $5.99 each
Splitfire 3 Platinum $5.99 ea.
Champion (gap at .028) $1.69 ea.
Autolite Platinum $2.99 ea
and there are many many more running from $1.69 to $5.99 each. Spark plugs are easy to change out, although you must be careful, but if you know anyone who is mechanically inclined at all, they should be able to change them for you.
The Oxygen Sensor is Bosch Part #17014 and it does retail for $199.99.
I hope I have been atleast a little bit of help, but since I am not familiar with the V6 engine, I cannot be of more help. The only recall I know of for the 00 Jetta is THIS ONE
-PR-
I have one of each: 2003 Jetta TDI and 2004 Honda Civic. Ask away.
2003 Jetta GL (1.8) manual trans, low oil light has come on twice - once before the 20k service and now about 500mi before the 25k service. Have you heard of this happening before?
I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a check-up/oil change. Any thoughts, suggestions, or advice? Thanks!
It would appear that you are consuming app 1 quart per 4,500 miles. I am guessing here for I really don't know if the low oil lamp light is 1 quart low and what your real interval or topping was. While the 1.8t motor is known to use a bit of oil, I would definely ask what is the definition of abnormal oil consumption and if the dealer would run the test for it.
Since I do 15,000 to 25,000 mile oil changes on the TDI motor, I generally start to ADD at the 15,000 mark and I might add at most 4 oz or 1/8 of a quart.
The oil-pressure light is an indicator of how much PRESSURE the oil-pump is applying to the bearing surfaces. When the oil-pressure light comes on, that means there is SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE OCCOURING due to lack of lubrication at the critical engine surfaces.
You should be checking the oil level with the dipstick... not the oil-pressure light. Allowing the engine oil to get so low that the oil pump sucks air is very bad for your engine.
You asked for advice -- I am assuming that your engine-oil level is correct and the oil-pressure light is coming on. A competent mechanic will put an oil-pressure gauge on the engine and make sure that the oil pump is putting out enough pressure.
If your engine truly has low oil pressure. even when the oil-level on the dipstick is OK, beware, this is a very bad sign and must be corrected before the engine becomes a boat-anchor. (hunk of useless metal)
Additionally, yours is a turbocharged engine -- this means that low oil pressure can turn the trubocharger into melted metal.