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The owners manual says 29 psi for front tires and 26 for back. This seems low to me. I was thinking of putting 35psi all around.
Tire pressure: Check the door jamb label. Think it's on the passenger side. When you take the car in for the first oil change, if it's like my Chevy dealer (hope so), they'll check the tire pressure at that point as well.
The gas guage on my car has always been deceiving. Guess it hasn't changed. When it reads 1/4, it's really 1/2. Don't chance it, but you'll see what I mean. The tank holds 15 gal., so go fill her up tomorrow, and report back. And yes, new engines do consume a bit more fuel. By 2-3K, all should be in the stated range.
Anyway, the cracked oil pan is only leaking a tiny bit. I hardly loose any oil between changes, so I'm not too worried, but it still is a priority as my CHECK OIL light is burnt out; if the leak gets serious, I wouldn't really have too much notice. As for the tires, I am gonna go with the cheapos. It's the best bet now.
Haven't figured out the plugs yet. I still have 35K miles to figure that one out, since they really don't need to be changed until 100K miles.
I have an after market Pioneer CD player in now that really kinda...is bad...let's leave it at that. The reception is thumbs-down-quality (which may just be a Malibu thing) and when it gets cold out, the thing is really susceptible to shorting out when I push ANY button. I was, about 2 months ago, looking on Ebay for the stock CD player that goes in the Bu's. I now, however, have found a 2003-2004 Delco 6-CD changer, that is an option on the Rendezvous and the Tahoe, which may fit my baby. It's XM ready (which I REALLY want) and can hold 5 more discs than my current one can. The brackets on the side of the stereo look identical to the one's on the stock CD player. Does anyone know if this new stereo will work with my application? BTW, it's only $275 compared to the $225 I was looking at spending on a slightly used stock Malibu single CD player on Ebay. Whacha think, Harry?...or anyone else? If you need to see a picture to give me advice, just go and do a search for "GM 6 disc" under the Audio and Visual folder in Accessories.
Thanks, as always!
BTW: The other day I commented that I saw the new Bu at an area dealership. It was locked, but today when I took my mom's Blazer in, it was begging for me to sit in it. I WAS SO IMPRESSED! It looked good from the outside looking in, but it's a totally different story when you sit in it. I now finally get that concept with the gear selector. That's really the only thing I don't like. It seems you need 2 hands just to shift from park. Everything else, though, looked and felt amazing. The doors at first seemed kinda light, but they make a good "thud" when they shut. I like it!
Jeremy
You NEED to tell me where the car was hit. At this point, I'd guess the front end, somewhere. But, to be honest, if the accident occurred at, say, 4 yrs., it really wouldn't have taken too much to total it. My next-door neighbor had a $6000 rear-ender (she hit someone) in her '03 Kia Sedona minivan, and aside from the radiator and A/C being crunched, you could barely tell it was damaged.
As far as the music, depends on your budget. If you can swing the oil pan (do that NEXT after the tires), and work a bit more "sweat equity" go for the tunes. The Bu will last you for at least another 2 years (don't know if you'll be commuting to college or living there); possibly 3 or 4. It's NOT a bad car, by the way. You're next splurge, after the oil pan, then the tunes, then some more fix-its, will be a great set of wheels. THAT'S what worried me about the tires, but hey, at your age, (yes, I'm jealous), throw caution to the wind. You're no dumb fart. Things will work out. I feel a bit like your father, but not really.
I'll start with the tires. The ones I plan to get are Fulda Assuro's, which I currently have and have been great in the Denver winters. They are good on dry pavement, but they are kinda noisy. I can sacrifice some "ear comfort" if I can save nearly $30 per tire.
About the rest: If the 6 disc player fits my car, I'm gonna BEG my mom to get it for me for a Christmas gift...we'll see how THAT works. But first I need to get my CV boot fixed. It's leaking grease and I've heard it can do some damage to a transaxle if it does not get fixed. Then, we'll see how the oil pan is going. If it's leaking more and more than I have to do it. Did I ever tell you guys why I think the pan is cracked?? Well, my dad and I were gonna change the serp. belt one day...we unbolted the engine mount, and in order to get the belt off, you must raise the engine a bit. We tried, just a touch, to lift the engine by the pan (with a jack and a 2X4, of course) to get it to move. Well it didn't. My dad told me to jack it up more to see if we could get the bracket lose from the little stud thingy and it never came lose. So needless to say I never changed the belt, but I think that extra "jack" cracked the ALUMINUM pan slightly. Anyway, if my belt breaks, then I definitely need to do the pan at that time, because the current pan won't be able to hold the engine for another round of lifts, if you know what I mean. Then once the pan is done, if I don't get the tunes for a gift, then that's when I'll get them. Does that sound right? I may be REALLY poor by then, but oh well.
Then I guess the rest will just come whenever.
You know, I came to the conclusion that the stealerships are evil. Every single time I have taken my car there, they have found something else to fix. I figured it was just my car, but it happened on Monday when I took my mom's car in. I took the Blazer in for a transmission flush and oil change. On top of that they found faulty oil cooler lines, carbon build up on the throttle body, a leaking vacuum hose under the dash (to operate the HVAC system). They wanted $420 for the lines, $90 for the hose, and I wasn't even about to ask about the throttle. Anyway, the flush (w/ out filter), and oil change, and the vacuum hose, all came to $321. I think I may just go to the dealer for the little rough idle thing I'm having, but I think I'll just go elsewhere from now on.
Thanks again guys, and keep the advice commin'!
Jeremy
I know you and your Dad are grease monkeys, but even with a '97 Malibu (being a bit less complicated than some of the newer stuff), I'd think twice in the future before trying to tackle major repairs yourselves.
Tires aren't my choice, but as long as you're happy.
Good luck with your car.
http://www.automobear.com/Chevys%20new%20Malibu%20drives%20so%20w- ell.html
Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
I guess I really don't need that radio. I can always get the stock TAPE player and get one of those six-stackers that go in the trunk.
Harry, you are right about the stealerships, and about the TSB stuff.
Thanks as always!
Jeremy
You reacted to the post about the radio quite differently than I thought you would. I didn't bother to chime in that you already have a non-stock radio in there. As long as it fits and you let someone else (knowledgeable) install it (if its a GM 6-disc, let the dealer do it), I don't see the big deal. However, the cautionary post by Jerry was wise, not knowing all of the details.
Harry
The link below requires you to find the press release on the left side, dated 10/16. The site didn't give me a more specific web address to link to.
http://www.media.gm.com/
Pure city driving expect to get around 20 mpg. Last winter when I was warming up my car 2ce a day and driving the short distance to work (5 miles round trip) I got 17 mpg on one tank that was 100% city driving.
On the highway I got 32 once. That was over fairly flat terrain and doing about 65-70.
I hope I didn't offend either of you with my reply about the stereo. But it wasn't meant as only a caution, because I highly recommend AGAINST trying to put that 2003-2004 6CD unit into the 1997 Malibu.
And I only say that because the recent GM Delco stereos are tied into the vehicle electronics of the cars they are part of. So much so that it's been a headache for some people that wanted to install aftermarket systems in place of them. They (the stereos) not only rely on the electronic "network" in the new model cars for antitheft (ie.- they actually ask the network the VIN of the car, and if it doesn't match the factory preset value, they cease to work. This can be reprogrammed to a different VIN however, by the dealerships, or so I've read), but they also function as replacements for other parts of the car's electronics systems. A good example is the fact that my Trailblazer's stereo functions as a display for OnStar, as well as replacing the separate speaker that older model cars (like the 1997 Malibu I traded for the TB) had for door ajar, key in the ignition, lights on, etc.
The main thing to know is that not only do the new model cars require the stereo to function properly (or one of several modules sold on the aftermarket to take their place when people install other stereos), but the stereos require the proper electronics network to be a part of the car itself. I'm fairly certain that the 1997 Malibu won't have everything needed to allow the 2003/4 Delco in-dash stereo CD changer to properly identify the VIN number for the car (even if the dealership does reprogram it to accept the Bu's VIN #).
Clear as mud yet? FWIW, I went the route you mentioned in your last post with my Bu, jeremy. When I was buying the car, it had only the Stereo / tape deck. I wanted the in-dash CD (wasn't an in-dash changer available that I knew about at the time), but the dealer said it would cost more to order the CD stereo and do the labor to swap them out than it would to just add the 6 disc Delco CD changer to my trunk. So I went that route.
Other than hating that I could only listen to one of the same 6 discs on a long trip, unless I pulled over and swapped them manually, it was a pretty good deal. For one thing, the CD changer accepted my custom compilation CDR/CDRW's (regular CD audio format).
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
A few more questions....sorry!
My heat (temp ) guage will sometimes go slightly higher than medium. Usually when I am parked for a while with the engine on. I am not talking about way above medium. Just a tad above it.
Is this normal?
The other thing is that when I apply the breaks while driving, the lights will dim a slight bit...not even enough to notice unless you are looking at it very carefully.
Is this normal?
Opel is possibly most boring brand in German market. There is the saying "Opel is the perfect used car". That means it doesn't evoke any enthusiasm. Vectra is the German equivalent of Toyota Camry - comfortable and practical, but boring both as a driving experience and as a design. Most boring is the interior, exterior being boring and squarish still looks handsome. Malibu interior is more cheeful and ergonomic is better in comparison. E.g. in Vectra turn signal stalk is almost impossible to use, it doesn't work as we get used to, very embarrasing it doesn't have fixed positions but has a complicated algorithm so you will need some traing and reading manual to be able adequately use it. Power windows have a strange complicated algorithm, it isn't a straightforward one step process as on Malibu and other cars. Then again climate control is challenge too - you need to keep your eyes on display to do simple things that take only one step, namely pushing the button, on other cars.
I've never had the dimming situation.
My alternator went about a year and a half ago. Funny noise from the engine compartment (like a "whir") and unusually high idle, but no blinking lights. Made it to the dealer in time. When the alternator went in the '96 Monte Carlo at 18 mos., the A/C blew hot air for a minute or two, and then the car just died; had to be towed.
My car has never had a single rattle or squeak and doesn't to this day. Doors still close with a solid "thud". Trunk lid creaks now, though. Door hinges squeak now and then. WD-40 cures all.
I also noticed a slight sound when turning at low speed. It is like a "whirl whirl whirl" sound. Very hard to describe.
Maybe I am being anal about this car. If she becomes a pain, she is being turned in after 3 years
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Last night, I read the 11/03 issue of Automobile and there was a short article about the G6. Turns out it will have the Malibu's 3.5 standard, with a supercharged version of the same engine (now, didn't I suggest that?), producing 285 hp, as the option. That DOES open the door a bit farther for a Malibu SS.
I have long been considering an Impala - a "minivan" sedan (so much space and a cavernous trunk") but its hard for me to justify a typical $26k price tag for the more desirable LS version.
The Malibu, on the other hand, had a much more inviting $20.5K price tag - stock LS, except $300 for 6 CD changer.
I was afraid this Malibu would be like the 3.4 liter version of the Impala I had tried - too soft on the suspension - but in fact it rode and handled more like the Impala LS with the Sport Suspension. Braking was very good, even though the Malibu has drum rear brakes instead of disc (like on the Impala). The LS isn't the most expensive Malibu - that is reserved for the "LT" version - but still it comes with aluminum wheels, adjustable pedals (which I liked, since I am short). Controls are very Japanese/European - stuff on stalks etc. - and the turn signals were very smooth (a detail commented on Japanese cars). The car "felt" better built than the Impala. On the other hand, it is signifantly smaller in the rear seat, although you don't give up much on the trunk.
Upholstery is cloth, which I personally like - I never liked velour - but in the tan color on the model I drove, comes off as a little "cheap." My VW Golf has cloth seats, but they are black/gray, and look fine. I think it's great GM is considering non-velour seats - VW has them on their "basic" model, Mercedes on their hatchback, and Dodge on the Neon. Of course velour looks "richer" but it rubs off on my jeans, and generally feels uncomfortable to me and reminds me of a bordello (I never liked leather, either).
I guess the nicest thing I can say about the Malibu - and this is not intended to damn by faint praise - is that it is very, very comparable to a current Camry or Accord. It handels well, has great ergonomics, accelerates very well, and seems well built. It is, in fact, better than my friends pre-2003 Accord - the V6 standard in the Malibu is far superior to the old 2.2 liter engines in the Accords (which were the most common engine). Of course, in 2002, Camry updated to a great 2.4 and Honda followed suit in 2003.
But for once the Malibu isn't LAGGING the Japanese, it's in the hunt.
The question that will come down to me, if I transition to a midsize 4 door sedan is:
Which is worse:
1. Japanese dealer snottiness, with "over servicing" and "over pricing" of routine maintenance; or
2. American dealer lackadaisical attitude towards anything that isn't an SUV or truck.
At least the American car dealers aren't as arrogant, in either sales or service, as the Japanese car dealers. I have a Mustang and pay a lot less for service on it than the foreign cars I have owned. I'd like to buy American. GM is trying pretty hard these days.
One thing to note, however, is that Chevy made a running change on all Malibus produced after 9/18. Rear discs are now standard on the LS (the LT had 'em all along), and the discs are optional on the base model if you go for ABS.
Definitely wait for an LS with 4 wheel discs. I'm sure they will be hitting dealers in a few weeks. I think ABS is standard also.
Wpbharry: It's weird to me that you (and a few others) heard a noise under the hood when the alternator went. The only way I knew was from the alternator light on the dash. And what is this I hear you not having ANY squeaks?!? What year do you have? I have the infamous front control arm squeak over slow bumps and my doors don't close with THAT much of a thud. Maybe it's just because I don't have the weight of the power accessories in the doors.
Jeremy
C&D was not too impressed with the styling and called the handling "uncoordinated." It also seems that C&D tries to get too cute and precise with their reviews.
Did anyone else read the reviews?
Thanks,
Bob
Place your BU in park and turn the healights on (beter do this at night in the dark). While in park try pressing the break pedal in and letting go. Do you notice dash and headlights dimmingat all for a second?
Mine does this and I am not sure what the break pedal has to do with the lights dimming. This also happens while I am driving and I apply the break. Please check this for me. Thanks.
Jeremy
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/Consumer.cfm
mazdaprofour: Brakes are fine on mine. I did have to replace the rears about 2 years ago, but never have touched the fronts. A little late in the game to be contacting NHTSA, I'm afraid. I mean this in a nice way, but I am sensing anality. If you want to feel better, feast your eyes on the Honda Accord Discussions (3 of 'em) and see what THEY'RE dealing with. I'll try to remember to check the lights later today, but while the WS is on TV, don't expect to be driving much this week after dark.