BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

brave1heart

Holding 80 mph into a long 30-degree ramp, switching lanes from the inside going to the outside (opposite works too) in a split second without any twitch whatsoever. Unbelievable...3+ months and this car still amazes me every day. I feel that I am getting closER to pushing it to the limit but not quite there yet.

brave1heart

Peabrain BMW sounds about right. It is BMW Peabody but I think I like your name better. I had actually asked for an E46 M3 test drive and my sales person told me it should be no problem over the phone. The day I showed up in the dealership, she told me that it was a very busy Saturday and that the M3 was actually blocked behind 3 other cars. I told her it was one or the other but it made no sense for an M3 to be blocked behind 3 other cars on a busy Saturday. I am disappointed with BMW Peabody's service so far. I guess they were much better at selling than servicing.

The Saturn, oh the Saturn... The LS is sized for midgets - the rearview mirror was lower on the windshield than my eyes and I had no visibility on the right at all. You sit in the driver's seat and all you can see is stuff on the left and then everything that's going on behind you. Once you hit 60, you lose the rearview vision as well because everything gets fuzzy with vibrations. The wipers only go up to about 2/3 the height of the windshield so again, being 6'1, I had to lower my driving position significantly so I could see through the windshield. The puny engine makes fretful notes when pushed to the redline and little did it know that this is where I wanted it to stay most of the time. Highway mileage is rated at high 30's and city was something like 28. I only got about 25 on the highway - I guess they didn't drive it at redline most of time to come up with high 30's ) Oh, the engine sounds like my toaster when the bread pops out. Handling... scary. Safety... well, for a 10-thousand dollar car, you don't get much of that. The brakes had a nice firm feel, though. I wish I could look back and laugh easily over the Saturn but I think I'm still getting over the couple of days that I spend in it and it may take more therapy before I can move on with my life ) And you know I never complained about the Kia Avella that I drove in St. Martin - that car was almost fun. It is smaller than the Kia Rio (cheapest car sold in the U.S.) but unlike the Saturn LS, it is not sized for 10-year old kids. If I had to sum it up in one short sentence, it would go like this: the Saturn is the American Trabant. Only the Trabant was (still is) much better-loved...

dantlo

I too had my 2001 325i steptronic steering retrofited. When I first got the car back right away I felt it about 60-70% heavier than before. I thought it was going to feel more like my wife's 98 528, but no it is even heavier. It is even heavier than my 93 325is(E36). But same as you guys the more I drive it and the harder I drive it, the better it feels. I would say it feels almost as heavy as the boxster at high speed.

Dan

jasonkureejii

I priority emailed BMWNA, and just got a response back today:

"The model of vehicle that you indicated in your correspondence, a 2001 BMW 325i , was produced with the
steering feel that the steering equipment level change provides. The equipment level change only involves customers with 2001 BMW 330i vehicles."

What is that? Do I already have the retrofit? My car was produced somewhere along June 1st. Could this be. If so, I don't find the steering to be very heavy at all!

tchoo

I received German manuals with my car and they've yet to get me English ones after 1.5 months. Good thing you can download the PDF version from the Owner's circle. Also when I picked up my car it was covered in dust.
I'm not sure what steering I have (early June production), but I feel its just right. Especially after driving around this rental Camry all week. The steering is sooo light you could steer it with your pinky. And the gas pedal is "floppy".

kominsky

this is getting more confusing by the day... brave1heart and dantlo just had the retro done on their 2001 325i's, so the wording in the email you quoted is definitely not correct.

I THOUGHT the steering retro mirrored what was being done, in the factory, on cars built from mid-May on. But brave drove a June built 330 and said that the retro is heavier. My retro'd steering is lighter than the 323i loaner I drove, but dantlo finds it heavier than an E36 3-series. My retro'd steering is MUCH heavier than my pre-retro'd steering at all speeds, but brave only notices a real difference at higher speeds. I'm starting to wonder if this is as well organized as I initially thought or if BMW is using a variety of parts (whatever's available at the time?) on these cars. Or are the differences all simply perception differences by the various drivers?

jasonkureejii

I'm sure perception has much to do with it. I have nothing to reference it to. Maybe my 325i DOES have the newer steering, and I just happen to think it's incredibly light....not as light as the `98 Camry I drove previously, but lighter than I expected. Let's just say this...it's more responsive than I thought it would be. I expected to be using a little more muscle, that's all.

brave1heart

jasonkureejii - According to the other board, the 325's got cut off from the steering retrofit and now BMWNA is only offering it to 330 customers. I got lucky I guess. If your car is June 1st production, you definitely have the final steering that '02 models will be offered with and you do not qualify for the retrofit. As I have mentioned in the past, the post-May steering is still lighter than the retrofitted steering. I am, however, surprised to hear that some of you thought the retrofitted steering was THAT heavy. I may be wrong but the '99 323 that I drove a couple of months ago seemed to have heavier steering than my car's retrofitted steering. It would be easier to compare in a back-to-back test, though... One of the great advantages of my car's retrofitted steering is that the steering wheel doesn't wobble at all when cornering aggressively. Not even if you hit a bump - this way you can stay on your intended line more easily. At any rate, if you're happy with you car's steering, don't change it.

tchoo - German manuals? zehr funny, ya?.. Your dealer is Foreign Motors, correct? At least their manuals' language is consistent with their name, I'd give them credit for that )

mfeldman

It seems like the rero is a little random. Some say it's super heavy (more than e36), others say it's medium. Maybe it's perception. Maybe Kominsky, Dantlo and Brave could post their part numbers to see if they all got the same thing.

kominsky

32-13-1-097-315 - I think. The work order is a little cryptic, but this number seems to be for the rack.

rpadilla

Being new to this, I have another question to ask the board experts -- I didn't buy the alarm system or CD Changer when I bought the car, and was wondering if anyone knew where I could get a good deal on either of these two things. I have checked the archives at www.bimmer.org found nothing.

genie1 -- did you get your car care products directly from the manufacturer (i.e., Zaino) or are you buying from some other source? Still have yet to get down to Nashville and other So. IN hotspots, but, will do so once the fall comes.

brave1heart

OK, let's keep this simple. The retrofit is standard - the service dept. follows BMWNA procedures. We all agree that the retrofit is heavier than recent builds and that it is much heavier than those 3-series built at the end of last year and beginning of this year. I and komisnky agree that the retrofitted steering is still not as heavy as the '00 and '99 323/328 but it is still VERY good. Here are the part numbers that I had listed on my service ticket:

1 32-13-1-097-315 AT steering box
1 32-30-6-752-957 Universal Joint

Here are all part number that I have seen people post based on the BMWNA fax to the dealer:
32-13-1-097-315 Steering Rack
32-30-1-094-703 Coupler
Plus shop parts:
31-35-1-095-452 Nut
32-21-1-095-267 Nut
32-30-1-094-718 Bolt
32-41-1-093-596 Seal ring
32-41-1-096-597 Seal ring

I am sure that reported steering weight differences between identically retrofitted cars are all due to perception. Even I changed opinions over a matter of a couple of days because the more I drive the car, the better I can feel it.

kominsky

I picked up the alarm at pacificbmw.com for ~$220. The install is pretty simple if you choose to do it yourself. circlebmw.com is another popular parts supplier.

brave1heart

Last Friday I left a message for the service rep at the dealership asking that she call back before I pick up the car on Saturday. She never called back. I left her a message this morning stating that I need a clarification on whether the clutch buffer/stop will be mailed to me and when. She called back apologizing for not returning my call and this time she went over my service ticket from last week. I was having 6 different things done/looked at (retro, fan, etc.), one of which was the xenon light problem that I had reported here on the board. The service ticket that I picked up on Saturday stated that they were not able to duplicate the problem and no work had been performed on the xenons. This morning's voicemail indicated that the headlight unit was reassembled to correct the problem. I left another message asking the rep to clarify the discrepancy. She followed up with another message saying that the service ticket that I picked up on Saturday had not been correctly updated and they had in fact done the headlight assembly unit. Well, I guess I would have never found if it wasn't for my repeated messages. Can you believe this? This is a luxury dealership we're talking about and all they do is BMW's. I am astounded. I know I tend to be a demanding consumer but this is all basic stuff. Hopefully, some day the dealerships will be as good as BMWNA and who knows, maybe even as good as the phenomenal cars that BMW AG makes.

brave1heart

I finally spoke live with the service rep and she told me that by headlight assembly, she meant the dealership replaced the whole xenon unit. It sounds a little extreme - I told them that I lost my right xenon for a couple of hours one night and boom - they replace $800+ worth of parts even without being able to duplicate the problem. I have nothing against it at all - it's just that I am amazed at how far they went to accommodate my complaint. It is also interesting that the xenons are $800+ in parts alone aftermarket - getting the $500 xenons options sounds like a great bargain. OK, it would be fair if I revise my original statement to say that although the customer service reps could do a much better job, the engineering department is very good. Oh, between the retrofit, the fan, the xenons, and the couple of cosmetics that I had replaced, BMWNA must have footed at least a $2,000 bill. Thank you, thank you, I have been appeased. The car drives like a dream.

uge123

Anybody have some suggestions for a better set of tires than the conti sport contacts that come with the 325i sport package? They make noise before they hit their handling limit and give way without sufficient transition at the limit. Anybody else encounter this? They are properly inflated and balanced. Thanks!

shipo

This is just a guess, I think that the reason that the BMW Xenon unit is so much more expensive than the aftermarket units is that the BMW unit is self-levelling, I HIGHLY suspect that the aftermarket stuff is a manually adjusted unit. That, and of course, the fact that the BMW unit is a factory part which always carries a hefty premium.

Best Regards,
Shipo

maroon95

any changes? when will it be on the showroom floor?

i am in the market for a 330 sedan. should i get the 2001 model and "save" some money or get the 2002.

also, is black a decent color? in my humble opinion, the metallic paint fee is outrageous!!!

gurumike

I love Conti Sport Contacts. In my opinion, Only SO2 Potenza or Pilot F1s would be more desirable - at a premium.

Shipo - I highly suspect that you're right ! Remembering, of course, that when you pay $500 from the factory, you're paying $250 per headlight more than the standard headlight would have cost.

maroon - yes, minor cosmetic tweeks to the small piece of trim on the bottom of the headlights, the pattern of the rear lights and CD is standard, cassette - no cost option. In USA in October. Saving on '01 model modest due to high demand. Black is beautiful color. Metallic paint costs a bunch more to do than non-met and on the less expensive cars, they like to keep the base price lower but that means they don't really make enough $$ on a car in metallic as BMW AG charges more (on all models, as far as BMW NA is concerned) for met paint than non. I think it's actually a bargain when you consider what it costs to paint a car at a body shop. Go ask your local paint shop how much to repaint your car white vs Orient Blue metallic. I bet one of them cost well over $475 more than the other. Frankly, $475 is SO cheap, it's a joke.

stgreen

anyone have mud flaps?? how much was installation and how do they look??

thanks
stg

burrsr

I've seen the mud flaps. They looked so out of place that I did a double-take. IMHO, they totally ruin the sleek, muscular lines of the 3 - like putting a mustache on Catherine Zeta-Jones (she seems to be popular over in the BMW Thing forum). Mud flaps are supposed to protect from minor aesthetic damage (in the form of nicks caused by small rocks), yet they themselves inflict more aesthetic "damage" than they prevent! Just my $0.02...

jbreez1

Hey BMW owners. I frequented your site awhile back while I was considering a certified pre owned BMW. After being scared away by the prices and reliability nightmare stories, I strayed to search out other options (NEW WRX, Acura TL, Used Audi TT, etc). Well, I'm back. I keep seeing the Bimmers on the street and keep thinking, "Boy would I like one of those!"

So, I'm asking for help. I'm a BMW neophyte. I'm looking for a Bimmer in the 21,000-23,000 range. What years / models will that limit me to? Is there an appreciable difference between the 323, 325, and 328? Does the number designation simply indicate engine size?

I see references to E46 and E36. Are those frame styles? What year did it change?

Is a pre owned a good move? Anyone out there have any experience with certified pre owned they are willing to share? Does BMW offer good financing for certified pre owned?

Sorry for all the "lame" questions, but judging from what I've read here, I'm hoping you won't treat me too badly and will offer some helpful input.

I'm real close to decision time (30-60 days) for buying a pre owned, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanx a Bunch in advance

jbreez1

jeffc1

I am trying to sell my 2000 328i. I have really fallen in love with a 1999 M3 Convertible. But I first have to sell me current vehicle. What are your experiences on the best way to sell privately? The dealer is not even gettin close to average trade-in value (NADA or Edmunds).

Thanks, Jeff

NE1 Interested let me know...

brave1heart

ContiSport Contacts - based on what I've read on various boards, the most popular choices for the SP tires are the Contis, the Bridgestone Turanzas, the Michelin Pilots, and the Dunlop SP8080. The general consensus seems to be that the Turanzas and Pilots have a marginally better grip on dry roads but the Contis and SP8080's are quieter and deliver a better balance between performance and comfort. The Contis are exceptional on wet roads, probably the best of the bunch. I personally am perfectly happy with the Contis in my 325i SP - they grip very well on dry roads and are rock-solid even in pouring rain. If you push the car really hard, they do make themselves known before they give in. I know from go-kart racing experience that about 90% of the time, slides slow you down and should be avoided. I like to drive the Contis at the limit of adhesion and I also like the fact that I get a warning noise before they give up grip. Keep in mind that although the Contis are the cheapest of the 4 choices listed above, they are OEM on the Porsche 911, so they are obviously considered to be serious performance tires. Of course, it would be best to compare these 4 types of tires back-to-back with the same car and exact same setup in various weather conditions - if anyone has done this, please tell us about the results before they make it to the press )

burrsr

...ought to get together, as fate put your posts in perfect chronological order.

Seriously, I would guess the 2000 328i to be several thousand $$$ beyond the price range jbreez quoted, but it'd be a helluva car.

Certified pre-owned is a good move. The warranty that goes along with it is, as I understand it, quite an incentive and should put to rest any uneasiness about reliability issues. As for pre-owned financing, I can't say firsthand.

The 323, 325, 328, 330 differ mainly by engine displacement (2.5, 2.8, and 3.0 liters, respectively). The 323 is a misnomer, as it is actually a 2.5-liter engine. They fixed that after 2000. Level of standard equipment varies with engine displacement as well, so price differences are not due to engine displacement differences alone (though mostly).

The e36 is the 1992-1998 3-series body style; the e46 is 1999 and beyond.

I'd guess that e46 cars would be out of that price range. A 1997 or 1998 e36 (325 or 328, depending on exact year and mileage) may fit into the range a bit better. Chech Edmunds' used car pricing for more detail.

Hope this helps, and good luck. I was a BMW-newbie (330i) about 8 months ago, too. After almost 8,000 miles and a second BMW, I am convinced it's money well-spent, especially if you value driving and cars as much as I do. I'm sure I'm speaking on behalf of most of this board as well.

jeffc1

Yeah... I didn't even see that until after I posted. And yes the 2000 328i will be a few thousand out of his range. Unless you listen to the dealers I've been dealing with :0

genie1

I bought a CPO 1998 318 coupé over a month ago. Prices in Canada don't compare well to US prices, but there is a lot more info on US prices than Canadian, so you should be able to narrow your range fairly well.

I personally wouldn't recommend the 318 to anyone that likes a bit if power. The 6cyl would be better. But its fine for me for the next couple of years. (I have decided that I will trade up when its paid off/off warranty if circumstances permit)

I chose to buy from a dealer as I wanted the peace of mind from the extended warranty. The road side assistance is a nice extra. Its like having a new car (almost). And a Bimmer at that.

BMW Canada had a deal in June on the CPOs (3.9% for the 3 series, my bank offered 6-7%). (Not that that's the least bit relevant to you)

bigbadboss101

Excuse me but what is a cpo? I am still considering a bmw. I have a Maxima now which has been trouble free. No rattles, squeak, mechanical failure, etc. On problem was with the key needing reprogramming.

Here are the cars I have been looking at:

Lexus IS300 - like the handling, and it turns heads. Small for my liking, and need more juice.

Acura TL-S - good luxury, and performance. However by reading from the acura forum I am afraid of all the things that people have had problem with.

Mercedes C320/Jag X-Type - not as good bang for the bucks as the others

Audi A4 - small back seats, but probably not unlike the 3 series. Didn't like the lone dealer in town. Snobby.

Nissan Maxima/Altima - with the higher performance they are worth a look. Not yet in dealerships.

BMW 325, 330i, 330ix. - Pricer, but I am deciding if it's worthwhile to go a bit more into the pocket book. A collegue had an accident in his BM not long ago. He hit a cougar driving about 140 mph. He was not injured, and the car is not a write off!! I like the looks of the BMW. It is getting a bit more popular then owners like to see.

That's my 2 cents worth.

genie1

streetracer

Hello, I am considering leasing a new 2002 330i automatic or M3(with SMG/SSG). I do most of my driving, including my hard driving, on the interstate and the occasional mountain highway. I would like to know your impressions of the cars (E46 3.0 and M3), in this driving environment. I am specifically curious about the cars acceleration off idle in cruising gear (with automatic) at highway speeds. I am also interested in the car's off the line and rolling start acceleration with the automatic, specifically without using steptronic mode or turning DSC/TC off. I know these cars having amazing skidpad numbers, which essentially test low speed cornering in tight corners. However, how do you feel the cars corner and handle on long wide high speed sweepers or s turns (such as those on I-80/95/287 in NJ/NY area)? I am making a purposeful distinction between cornering (staying on road under lateral acceleration) and handling (sense of control, stability, and responsiveness). How does the car perform and handle under combinations of acceleration, braking, and cornering? I am use to driving cars with long wheel bases and wide tracks, and high torque engines with low end pull and broad powerbands (i.e. large displacement or supercharged V6/V8). I have also recently been driving fwd drive cars, but am anxious to return to RWD. I have found FWD cars offer excellent cornering under power, but not when coasting or braking (off-power understeer). However, its very awkward to have to power through a turn, especially if you entered it too fast, or there is a slow moving vehical in front of you. Do you think RWD and 50/50 characteristics allow you have the same apex/exit speed on a corner, as is possible with high torque FWD car under power? I am currently driving a Pontiac Grandprix GTP, which is a FWD Supercharged V6 with 240HP and 280 ft/lbs from 2000RPM to 5000RPM. Please no flames or GM/Pontiac bashing. I am here to talk about BMW. I am interested in BMW because its only company to currently offer stylish luxury sports coupes/sedans with RWD/AWD, true sports supensions, 18 inch sports wheels with Z rated tires, dynamic stability control, high final drive ratios, and 5 speed automatics with septronic. I know the cars offer many other things, but these are my personal criteria.

burrsr

If you're looking into a M3 with SMG, I hope you got on the waiting list about 6 months ago. Otherwise, you're looking at a year's wait, not to mention the premium over sticker (~$10,000) these cars are going for.

One advantage of the 330 is that it can actually be HAD, saving mucho time and $$$.

I have a 2001 Step 330i, and I can say that the transmission is possibly the most responsive and smooth, least power-sapping autos available today. Just press on the throttle and you're pressed back in your seat. You can expect acceleration comparable to your GTP, but with one of the most satisfying engines, in terms of smoothness and sound, this side of Maranello. I'd still prefer the immediate responsiveness of a manual, but if an auto is a criterion, there are few better combinations than the 3.0-liter engine and the 5-speed Step (OK, maybe the 540i's engine and Step).

The SMG is really a manual with an auto clutch -- F1-style. It performs as well as or better than a comparable manual, since there's no torque converter to fuzzy-up the drivetrain. If you're into the ultimate in new auto technology (and the inherent risks involved), the wait, and the extra $$$, an SMG-equipped M3 might be an even better choice.

j330i

Can somewhat recommend a good (and safe) wheel cleaner for BMW's alloy wheels? I have heard of two supposedly good cleaners: P21S Wheel Cleaners (from Germany) and Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity Cleaner. Does anyone have any experience with either of these? Does anyone know if they are both safe to use on the wheels? Both are acid free but are mild solutions of an alkaline solvent, usually ethylene glycol, with a wetting agent. P21S is the milder of the two (with a stronger variety coming in the form of a gel) and Hi-Intensity Cleaner being professional strength. Any comments???

jbreez1

First of all thanx to burrsr for the geat input. Now a couple of more dumb questions:

Is there no more 328 and 323? Looking at edmunds, I notice the 325 is only 2001 listed. I also note that a new 325, according to edmunds, can be had for just under MSRP. Unfortunately I must have automatic for the wife, so per edmunds I'm looking at a little over 28,000 for a new 325. Looking at used 328s and 323s, I haven't found any 98s or 99s under 26,500 (most are 27,500 and up!) To be honest with you, for 2000 more I am seriously considering a new 325!

Anyone have any input on what they have paid for 2001 325 with auto as only option. I'm in Orlando. Jeffc1, your 2000 an auto? if so, maybe we can talk. burrsr, thanx again, I appreciate it!

Jbreez1

brave1heart

You should be able to get a '01 325 for about $1,000-1,500 off MSRP, if you can still order one that is. You will not find a base 325 with just the step option anywhere. I do agree that getting a new 325 makes more sense than a used 323/328 - good luck!! As far as the '02 325's, I'm guessing the going rate initially will be around $500-700 off MSRP (less on strippers) and you're looking at delivery some time in November.

jeffc1

My 328i is a 5-speed. The 323 became the 325 and the 328 became the 330. No more orders on 2001s.

jbreez1

Thanx. Guess I'll have to look for a deal on a 2001 with some extras. Any guess on the 2002 prices? November is probably a good time for me, if not too much more, I may go that way. Boy, I really went up from 23,000 huh? My wife's going to have to get a second job! or I can dip into that college fund!

jeffc1, good luck with selling your vehicle.

Been great talking to you, I'll keep you posted, hope to be "one of you" soon.

Jbreez1

bmwagonmaster

Go to the BMW web site:
http://www.bmwusa.com/welcome.cfm?code=Home
and click on the "Certified Pre-Owned/Vehicle Search" at the top of page. You will then get a screen that allows you to input your zip code, distance you'll travel to buy a car, the car details, and price range. The search will then show you all available cars at authorized BMW dealers. Good luck!

shap1

I'm in Miami and have a 2001 325i with step and CD only. I got it for about $1,500 under MSRP at the end of June. I got lucky in that there were a bunch of 3's (like 30) on the dealer lot, which apparently never happens. Big demand here for this car! Maybe you'll get lucky and find one on a lot somewhere in FLA. My dealership, South Motors, gets large allocations so you might contact them. I can get you the contact info. if you want it.

dunde

My car was at VPC for over 2 weeks. I know how it feels when u know its there but then its not with u. In my car the check engine lite was not working which they discovered at VPC and were waiting for a part to come. But the BMW Cust Center they did not have any record of that. The Dealer told me about it.

thecardude

I have a 325i (2001) ,I have 2 questions.

1) What do I need to purchase (AT THE MINIMUM) to use the car-phone? Can i connect my existing phone to the car..

2) I want a wood dash for my vehicle, just the way the factory has it. Most sites dont have the factory model. Any ideas?

thanks
AK

jbreez1

I know the dealer as I lived in Sout Florida from 1979-1999. Thanx for the info. I have them on my list of BMW centers. I still get down there quite often as my mom lives in Hollywood, so I'll have to make a quick trip.

Thanx to the wagon master for the info also. i have checked that site. That is where I keep seeing 98s and 99s for the same price as a new 325s.

Thanx again

jbreez1

hippo168

j330i, I'm also doing some research on the wheel cleaning products. But I learned that if you wash your car frequently, probably twice or 3 times a month, and use the car shampoo to clean your wheels, it should be enough to keep the wheels shinny...

Those wheel cleaning products are for moderate to severe brake dust/road dirt accumulation, and I think it is kind of an overkill.

streetracer

I am actually going to be test driving a 540i with sport package and 5 speed auto on Saturday. I will also test drive the 330i. I wish I could get a slightly bigger 3 series with the 4.4. The main attaction for me to the 540i vs 330 is the engine, and wider/longer wheel base and larger cabin. However, the larger size also seems to reduce cornering, at least as measured on the skidpad, and handling. I have skidpad numbers for 540 anywhere from .82G all the way up to .87. The 3 series seems to consistently get .85, although recently C&D, MT, and R&T posted .82-.83G. I take it the differences may be due to sport vs non-sport package test cars, in addition to skidpad diameter. I have also seen a wide variation in the 330's 0-60 numbers. I have seen as low as 6.2 with the manual and 6.8 with automatic, to as high mid 8s with the manual and 9s with the automatic. The 540i auto and manual seem to consistently be in the 6 second range. However, I have seen a long term test that got the car into the mid 5s, but they later had to replace a flywheel. I am no stranger to wide differences in 0-60 times. My car which only comes with an auto, has had had 3 different official numbers sense its introduction in CY 1997 (6.6., 6.5, and 6.4) The car mags usually get 6.7, and most people with g-tech get between 6 and 6.2 at sea level. The usual track time slip, has the quarter milesin the mid to high 14s, vs the official and mag times of 15.0. I think motor trend once got a 14.7. I know there can be big differences due launch and shift technique on a manual. However, to be fare to the magazines and GM, a supercharged FWD car can also be greatly effected by launch technique (easy to spin wheels), not to mention temp/humidity (can bog the charger or act as a poor man's intercooler). A big part of my decision will not only be performance across acceleration, cornering, and braking but also how consistently and efforlessly this performance can reproduced. I would also of course like the option of pushing the car to get even more out if, hence my desire for steptronic and DSC that can be turned off with RWD.

david325xi

Picked her up on 7/31. Currently has 914 miles on it. The more I drive, the more I love. This is
the only word I want to say. Cornering about 10 miles faster than Rx300 (my wife's car now).
Feel more stable when pass 85mph. Steeling wheel feels a little lighter than a 2000 323Ci.
When in 5th, car responses a little slow. No problem when use M1 to M4. Out ran a E430
by using M4 and at 95+ mph. I try very careful to not pass 100mph and 4500rpm during break
in. This car just want me drive faster and It really knows what I am thinking!
Couple of things I think BMW should consider:
Frist is the trip computer should have the timer
that tells you how long is the trip (since you start the engine) instead of a clock. There is a clock in the CD player. (I don't know if there is one in tape player). CD player is standardized in 2002?
Second, every time when I exit the car, my leg will touch the lower door frame. (Dry clean store will like that).
Question: I current have 205 60 R16 tires. Can I replace them with 225/50/R16?
or 225/60/R16?

s852

How long will it be before lists of standard equipment, options and colors will be available for the 2002 325i?

jthai

doesn't get more detailed than this. no pricing yet though.

http://www.geocities.com/~dawgstats/e46/

s852

Is that accurate for US models though?

jrct9454

In the real world, as opposed to the test track, the feel of the 330 vs the 540 is not going to be as radical as the numbers might suggest. If you need the extra room of a 5er, that is one thing; otherwise, I'd keep the money in my wallet and buy a 330...

Nothing more deceptive than published performance numbers...only your very own g-maximus [that famous performance measuring part of the anatomy] knows the right answer.

brucec35

according to the brouchure someone was nice enough to post here, there are several new wheel styles for 2002. Are the old 325 sports package star spoke wheels being replaced? I don't happen to like any of the new ones I saw, and that might tip me towards picking up a 2001 at a discount later this fall. Also, what about the coupe wheels?

burrsr

I can understand the dilemma between the 540 and the 330. I think you'll find that interior space is almost equivalent between the two, while the outer dimensions of the 540 are greater. More efficient packaging, I guess.

I'd also look again at your 0-60 nnumbers. I've never seen a 330 Step test over 7 seconds; most are between 6.4 and 6.7. Even BMW, who is notoriously conservative in their performance specs, lists the 330 Step at 6.9. Manuals have typically been around 6 even, ranging from 5.9 to 6.3. I've never seen variation for ANY car be more than 0.4 or 0.5 seconds between publications. A second or two is just too high an error (20-30%). Autos are less subjective to driver methods, yes, but manuals will vary by a half-second at most, especially when they publish an average of several runs. The only 3-series that may break the 8-second barrier would be the 325ix with Step, and I'd guess it to be around 8 flat.