BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    They finally got it right...

    My car's been to the dealership 3 times for the rear-deck rattle. The first time they diagnosed it as a blown H-K subwoofer and had to order the part. The second time they installed the new 'sub', which did sound better, but didn't rectify the rattling problem. Yesterday, they stuffed some kind of foam between the frame and the rear deck. The rattling has ceased!
  • ccchen1102ccchen1102 Member Posts: 30
    I am experiencing rear deck rattle too, what is the sympton on your case? Is it rattling on the left or right side? (Mine is on left side) Where exactly is the foam inserted? These info. would help me a bunch. Thanks.
  • bingusabingusa Member Posts: 22
    When we refer to dealer profit over invoice, does the invoice include "destination & handling" $645? If it does, why should D&H be taxed? I know this does not make much difference in the grand total besides the tax portion on D&H. Just the communication with a dealer became confusing. I thought she offered $2045 over invoice ($1400+$645), she was saying she offered $1400.

    Thanks.
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    In my case, during very low bass notes there was a rattling coming from, it seemed, the drivers side of the deck.

    The foam was inserted between the chassis and the deck. I've seen a post (on e46fanatics, I believe) by someone who used tube-socks to fix this problem. I can't find the link, but he removed the subwoofers from inside the trunk and pushed the socks up through the openings until the deck started bulge just slightly. I'm guessing that is pretty much what the dealership did only without the sweatsocks ;-).
  • mschukarmschukar Member Posts: 351
    Tire rack indicates that 17" rims are necessary with the 325 or 330i with SP. Has anyone put smaller rims (16") on with SP? I was pricing rims and snow tires and was hoping to get a little more choice on rims.

    -Murray
  • silverprincesssilverprincess Member Posts: 75
    I have a 1999 323i sedan with SP and they came with 16" rims standard. But I just upgraded them to 17" Star Spoke Style 44 rims with Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45ZR-17 (from TireRack.com), and they look really sharp, very aggressive! Now I don't know what to do with my 16" rims and brand new Conti tires (email me if you're interested.)
  • dave330idave330i Member Posts: 893
    I was laughing at the Bush tax refund, but then got to use my refund to go buy a helmet for autocross. Guess it wasn't all bad.

    Now if I could just not pay fed taxes, I can have my tire costs covered too.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...the term invoice, which I always amend to the phrase "nominal invoice" [for a variety of reasons too long to go into here] is supposed to be the bill that the dealer has to pay the manufacturer to buy the car to resell to you. By definition, that means that the destination charge has to be part of the cost, since it is billed to the dealer and has to be paid. Why is it taxable? Why shouldn't it be? Perhaps everyone, including me, would be happier if the car makers would just kill the whole destination charge shtick and just make the base cost of the car itself to the dealer that much higher, but regardless, they have to pay so you have to pay.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    It is my understanding that the minimum wheel sizes for the four E46 cars is as follows:

    323i - 15 inch
    325i - 16 inch
    328i - 16 inch
    330i - 17 inch

    The determining factor is the brake size. The 323i has the smallest brakes, the 325i and 328i share the same brakes, the 330i has the largest.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    The TireRack is a little misleading with respect to tire/wheel sizes. Since your 325 Sport came with 17 inchers they consider that the minimum wheel/tire size that will fit, but in this case, it's not true. You can definitely put 16" wheels and tires on and IMHO that would be a great idea for a winter setup.
  • topspin627topspin627 Member Posts: 67
    I am very close to finalizing a deal for 1 2001 330i Sedan with sport package and much more. I would appreciate some info from the very educated people on this site. First, I read in one of the auto mags that midway through the year all 330's went to the sport suspension after complaints of too soft a regular one. Is that true? Does the Sport package lower the height of the car? Are the high performance tires ok for rain and day to day driving? For snowy months in the NE I am assuming that I will have to put on snow tires. Any idea of cost and do they fit on the same rims? How much would one pay to have them put on each year? What will the ride be like on them and what type would you reccomend? Do the tires fit in the trunk to cart back to one's home after change?
    And finally a few comments. The car seems solid and amazing. I'm just surprised about a few nit picking things like why on a 40k car they wouldn't color key the moldings and bumpers. And why not have a 6CD changer in the dash like most much cheaper cars do? BMW seems to charge extra for a lot of things that one would think should be standard at this price. That aside, I am very excited about getting this car. I went for the sport package mainly because I thought the seats were much more comfortable to me and you seem to get quite a few extras in that package for not a lot (relatively speaking) more $. Any answers and or comments on the above are much appreciated.
  • gurumikegurumike Member Posts: 442
    March production saw "sport suspension" become standard on 330i. I'm tempted to call this move a mistake as it did take a little away from the wonderful 3 series ride quality. It's not like the E46 chassis had any handling deficiencies before. Most every other manufacturer could only dream of making their products drive the way a 'standard' 3 series can. Anyone who REALLY cares will go for a sport package anyway. Yes it lowers the ride height but not by anything worth talking about. Performance tires are fine in the rain but are ill suited for any type of snow duty; you will need snow tires. Don't feel obligated to get a sport package unless you really have to have the different bumpers, seats, wheels and steering wheel. And no, I don't think you'll be taking four wheel/tire combos home in the trunk (especially not the sport rims).
    Typical American !! You're looking at the the color coded bumpers and CD changer in-dash from totally the wrong angle! While the Ci cars do have all painted bumpers and side strips, the sedans have the unpainted strips all the way round. There are many reasons for this. Mostly, I think it's just style. Whilst providing protection from other cars' doors, I think it gives the car a better over-all appearance. I've often thought that 2 doors, light colors inpeticular, look too mono tone with-out the strip to "break-up" the top-bottom appearance. And no, I'm not a fan of pin stripes on cars before anyone asks! As for the CD changer in dash, there are two ways of doing it and a very German way of looking at it. Now let me say, again before anyone points this out for me, that the new 7 series will include a glovebox mounted CD changer. This is somewhat acceptable, from our German perspective. Think about it - what is the point of a CD changer? 6 CDs at, let's say, 70 minutes of music time each equals 420 minutes of music, or 6 hours. Most cars will run out of gas in less time than that. A CD changer is a fairly large piece of equipment and the glove box area is already not the largest storage place. So what's the sense (remember - we're thinking in German now) in taking up this space when the large area in the trunk of the vehicle is much better equipped for this task! Convenience or laziness? Or neither? At the Lexus/Infiniti dealer (oh by the way, I'm now officially Infiniti sales manager, gulp!), it almost sounds convincing when the sales man points out that they have 6 CD capability in the front - and you can't get that on The BMW !! Who cares! Is it really so much easier to lean over to the glove box than go to the trunk? And if so, where are you storing all of these CDs, in multipuls of six, that you're swapping with the front mounted changer ?! The other way to do it (Infiniti and Subaru) is with the multipul CDs being fed into the head unit. Sounds like a much better idea to me, but now you have a non-standard size radio in the dash. Nothing much wrong with this idea as the vast majority of customers these days don't run out and swap the radio head unit with an after market piece. Okay so some (Subaru, Ford and some Toyotas excl Lexus versions) do have double DIN which I am a fan of, but now we need to give up more dash/center console space for the stereo. Again, before anyone tells me, I know the BMW has an "over wide" face plate but underneath that is an industry standard (DIN-E) sized Blaupunkt radio CD player, for anyone who really needs to do something more special. On my latest system, I stuck with the factory head unit, principally because it uses the steering wheel volume etc controls and is linked in in many other ways to the vehicle. Most importantly of all - ergonomics. BMW's new 3 series is a marvel of ergonomic brilliance. I can not think of any other car sold, ever, with such a well executed interior. Every thing is in just the right place. I have never been so overly impressed with all the different cars I've had (about 40 or so in the last 10 years) as the 2001 E46. I am stunned on nearly a daily basis with how well it does EVERYTHING !! Seriously.

    Disclaimer - Much of what I've shared here is my subjective opinion. Nothing more. Oh, and if you have a cassette deck, then I think it's made by Alpine, not Blaupunkt.
  • gurumikegurumike Member Posts: 442
    (In Russian or German accent)

    "Remember - you must think in German ....... think in German.."
  • gurumikegurumike Member Posts: 442
    Dude - you've got to give it at least a week !!!
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...take a breath there, big fella. Yes, the Germans do everything for a reason, and yes, their reasons have much to do with the home market and how it perceives these tradeoffs. But every car maker makes decisions about market suitability in export situations - otherwise, there would be no cupholders at all on German cars, as the Germans themselves find these things [or the behaviors they represent] appalling. There are lots of examples of these "compromises" - a true in-dash [NOT in the glove box, in the dash] CD changer/cassette combo is not a huge engineering challenge for Honda...my '01 Accord manages it nicely...but is against German principles? Well, OK...

    Boy, do I agree wholeheartedly about your comments on the suspension. I too thought that the whole point behind the MB / BMW dynamic advantage was the MAGICAL combination of RIDE and handling in the standard suspension. Short of competitive events, what more do you need? I think the problem here is the automotive press, not the buying public...there seems to be a real imperative to keep tightening suspension settings to win media comparison tests, which are always biased to raw track numbers vs real world road behavior. Toyota fell for this big time in putting together the IS300 for our market - and the result is a car that makes great numbers at the track, but rides much too firmly [especially on SoCal concrete - you know what I mean] to be a decent long-distance tourer. And that's what I buy a German car for - safety, security, and real comfort in long-distance touring situations. The handling has always been there - how far do you need to bug your eyes out on corners to feel safe? Hope BMW and MB don't take this trend over the top - we don't need 40-profile tires and competition spring settings for touring sedans...but if you think you do, that's why the sports option was always available. But let's keep it OPTIONAL.
  • daswolfdaswolf Member Posts: 43
    on the E46. Alpine or Blaupunkt? (or other?)
  • gurumikegurumike Member Posts: 442
    You're spot on, jrct, on the suspension issue.

    The E46 CD player is a Blaupunkt unit made for BMW. The radios are made to BMW requirements by Alpine (tape) and Blaupunkt in order that they handle other features such as telephone display.
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    It looks like all of your questions were answered above except for the snow tire question... This subject has been covered many times before if you want to look back through ALOT of posts.

    My personal recommendation would be to buy a dedicated winter tire/wheel package and swap them on each winter. You can do the swap yourself fairly easily and that way won't have to worry about carting them around in your trunk. The cost of the wheels will be partially made up for by not having to pay someone to mount and balance tires twice a year on your OEM rims (I'm guessing about $120 - $150/year). And when you consider that your OEM rims will be saved from the hazards of winter and ham-fisted mechanics, it may actually prove to be cheaper buying the extra wheels.
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    I've seen TireRack ads (last year) with the price for a winter/tire wheel packages for 330's at ~$1,350. This years prices should start appearing in the auto magazine ads within the next month or two.
  • stgreenstgreen Member Posts: 74
    * I took delivery of a 2001 330xi -orient blue, black leather; PP,SP, Xeon, 6 disc changer in trunk; cold weather pkg and all wheel drive sports package 7 days ago on a 3 year, 15,000 mile/ year LEASE. Right or wrong i sold my 7 year old saab locally and put $5000 down towards the 330xi even though i got 6800 for it.
    * The payments on the lease come out to around $450 per month with the 5000 down.
    * For various reasons, i dont think i want the car and would like to know what my options are. I am ultimately interested in a non-bmw $10,000 lower priced vehicle.
    ** right now it is in perfect shape, except for the fact that it is not on the showroom floor and has 280 miles on it.

    *** am up the creek without a paddle or do i have options?? ***

    i dont mind losing a bit of money getting out of the lease and expect i could sell this type of hot car but the leasing company holds the title) I expect to take a hit one way or the other and dont want to debate the 'how can you not love this car thing'. but thats another issue altogether.

    * thanks in advance for solid adivce.
  • gurumikegurumike Member Posts: 442
    ..then that is your new car. You own it. Thank God you leased it (unless you live in Texas) as you didn't pay all the sales tax !!!! You can ask your dealer, or any dealer for that matter, if they will buy it from you and pay off the lease. I'm guessing around $3,000 back of invoice. If you put $5k down, you should be able to get out of the car with out coming up with any additional $$. But look at it from this perspective - if you get your $10k cheaper car (or Saab/Volvo with artificially high sticker) and make min $$ down payment, you're likely going to wind up at about the same monthly payment. And given that you are now driving Americas favorite car I would suggest that swapping it for a lesser car makes absolutely no sense at this stage.

    What other car did you have in mind? If you let me know, I can do a better analysis of your situation to see if it makes any sense.
  • topspin627topspin627 Member Posts: 67
    First let me say thanks for the input. However I think we could all do without the comments about "typical Americans". What's that about!
    Regarding SP is the consensus that it's worth it in normal day to day driving. I won't race but thought that the seats were much better and I like the look. How do you feel the regular seats do on long rides. One of the car mags said they thought they were too flat and I agree. I am used to MB seats which are firm but very nice for long rides. I was hoping to duplicate that in my BMW and thought the sport seats may be the answer. How much in ride quality am I giving up in with the SP. As for the snow tires, are you saying that I couldn't just put snows on the sport wheel rims? Does anyone have experience with all weathers on the sport package? That may be one way of keeping the more luxurious ride and yet getting the seats and look of the sport model. I don't want to put another 1350 into the car so that I can drive in snow and slush.
  • merckxmerckx Member Posts: 565
    A flatter seat won't give you less comfort on a ride of any length;a seat lacking aggressive side bolsters will merely not keep you as firmly in the correct place during spirited driving. So,really,a flatter seat should be more comfortable on really long drives in that it will allow you to shift your body about a bit.
    A sport suspension is great on an afternoon's test-drive,but I wonder how it would be over the course of,say,80,000 miles.If the standard set-up feels mushy,then OK,otherwise...
  • gurumikegurumike Member Posts: 442
    In response to "what's that about?"

    An "American" way of viewing cars includes the expectation that once a vehicle reaches a certain price, it should automatically come with "all the bells and whistles". Rather, consider that a vehicle's cost is merely a reflection of the sum of it's parts. The best example I can think of is the floormats one. "A $40,000 car and you don't get floormats?!". If it had floormats, it would be $40,100. Similarly, to simply expect that you should be getting, for example, an in dash CD changer fails to take into account other considerations such as design preference. That's all I meant. I had used that expression with tongue in cheek. No offence intended.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I happen to have a 328i without the SP. That means that my car has the standard non-lowered suspension, all season rubber and "Flat" seats.

    When I test drove a 328i with the SP back in 1998, I found that the sport seats were perfect for holding you in place in the twisties, however, they were too restrictive for long drives. As far as firmness, I found no difference between the two seats, and for my tastes, the standard seats were more attuned to my day-to-day driving habits.

    The suspension is another story, admittedly, I did not have the chance to drive on bumpy or irregular road surfaces, buy I found very little difference in the "Ride" characteristics between the two suspensions. I chose the standard setup simply to allow a little more rubber between the edge of that nasty pothole out there with my name on it and the edge of my rims.

    As far as putting All-Season rubber on your stock SP wheels, a quick perusal of the tirerack.com site indicates that the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires are available in the two sizes required for the 330i SP as well as the size required by the 325i SP. This might be a worthy compromise unless you are intending to track your car.

    Hope this helps.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • skobolaskobola Member Posts: 207
    You may try http://www.leasetrader.com. They offer assumptions of existing car leases, and that is exactly what you want, i.e., someone to assume your lease. Good luck.
  • denrightdenright Member Posts: 285
    Man, the polish, once it dries, is MUCH harder to buff off than I anticipated. I busted my tail for an hour to buff it off my steel gray 330xi this afternoon and didn't even finish.

    This AFTER I spent an hour washing, drying and pre-treating it. Sheesh!
  • roc50mgroc50mg Member Posts: 102
    zaino is too much work. i spent two or 3 days a couple of weeks ago, spending 10 to 12 hrs washing, clay barring, polishing, waiting, polishing, etc. to put the stuff on my car. ENd result: it looked fantastic for a day until the dirt got on it again. I will not clean the car again until spring. ANd I might try Klasse instead. Klasse sounds like less work for same effect.
  • gurumikegurumike Member Posts: 442
    Yesterday, I spent over three hours, which for me was a new record, Klasse'ing the 330i. I had no idea this was "national detail week". After a thorough washing with Turtle Wax car shampoo, I used my All-in-One. Having spent two hours or so at this point and wondering how the car could possibly look any better, it was very hard to continue my Saturday after-noon off work laboring further. But I did. Admittedly the sides of the car weren't worked as hard as I would like to have but in reality, the light amounts of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze I applied were likely closer to what I should have been using anyway. This finished product was truly flawless. Ultra deep with absolutely no marks of any description. The High Gloss Glaze offers up to 12 months protection but I'm sure I'll be doing a pre-El Nino treatment in December. The whole process was a breeze and when I'd finished, I was very happy with the over-all project. It was Shipo's fault (because he bought some, so there-fore I need some too, right?!) it took an extra hour as, with my 3 times yearly use of the All-in-One, the High Gloss Sealant was really not necessary. Having said that, with having a new car and subsequently no oxidized paint, Shipo could rightly argue that my All-in-One was the superfluous part of my day!
  • reubencahnreubencahn Member Posts: 102
    Thanks for the help. Amazing idea: wash the car!!! But in all seriousness, do you or anyone else have any idea what this stuff is? It won't come off.
  • dave330idave330i Member Posts: 893
    I just did a weekend trip to Santa Barbara from SF, and I had no problem what so ever with my car (330i SP/PP). It absorbed the bumps on the road nicely at 80+mph.

    On a side note, I was amazed by most drivers on my trip. Most actually yielded to faster traffic. I didn't quite know what to do. It almost seemed unnatural.
  • unboringuyunboringuy Member Posts: 90
    My wife thinks I'm crazy for spending the hours (in the double digits) to prepare (wash, clay, wash again) and then to apply Z-1, Z-5, etc. I guess I got all caught up in the commentary regarding these products.

    BUT, when I stopped to think about it, I remembered my OTHER car. It's a silver 1991 Mazda Miata with close to 100,000 miles. Yes, it's garaged overnight and during the day at the office, but people think it's brand new. The shine is amazing. And what have I used for the last 10.5 years on that car? Simple paste carnauba wax. And it does look great! Makes you wonder....
  • gurumikegurumike Member Posts: 442
    You were in Santa Barbara and you didn't stop by to say "Hi" ??!!! I was at the dealership most of Saturday (using their wash bays) and all Sunday!

    They drivers closer to me drive a little better as I've spent nearly seven years working on intimidating them into keeping right when there are angry looking BMWs coming up on them.
  • dave330idave330i Member Posts: 893
    darn... my car could've really used a wash, considering all the bugs I've killed.

    Funny thing about drivers. One of the few people hogging the road was a 5-series. She was too busy talking to the passenger.
  • jrc330jrc330 Member Posts: 15
    My two cents from a few years of experience.

    Having just sold my 99 328I non SP non PP, with CWP to purchase a 2002 330I SP/PP/CWP here are my thoughts.

    The non SP seats are very comfortable on long 3+ hour drives, however they don't have the best lumbar support (I did not get the premium package with the Lumbar option at the time, this would have helped). The Sport package seats have the same padding level in the seat, but they offer a better lumbar support package even before you add the premium lumbar option. The latteral support is much better on the sport seats if you plan on doing any "fun" driving even day to day on the highway. It is amazing how fast one can take on and off ramps.

    As far as the suspension feel on the SP and non SP cars, when I test drove the 330I with SP several times I made a point of finding all the bumps in the road that I could and thought that the feel of the two cars was very similar. I am driving a Pontiac Sunfire now while I wait for the 330 to come in and let me tell you the 33o SP handles the bumps a heck of a lot better then the pontaic. I think that the SP cars tend to track on serrated road a little more , but this is not a big deal to me.

    Summer VS. All Season VS. dedicated winter tires. Living in Massachusetts, I have plenty of opportunity to drive in snow and ice. The first winter I drive with the stock continental all season touring tires, these were fine in the dry and wet, but give them a little snow and ice and the traction control is kicking on all the time. 2nd winter I replaced them with a set of Bridgestone Blizzak MZ-01's and steel rims to protect my alloys. Unbelieveable difference, much better grip in the snow and ice, the traction control was kicking on 60-70% less. Dry grip was not as good as the all seasons, but not bad. For the 330 I plan on going with Bridgestone LM-22 (higher speed rating snow tire) and alloy Borbets.

    Hope this helps.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa.

    I am sure glad I don't have to beat myself in the chest anymore! ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shawn325ishawn325i Member Posts: 100
    just hit 2500 kms on my 325i, I find that my ASC is kicking in on every tight corner that I take aggressively.

    I did not have this problem (?) while driving the 320i I had as a loaner.

    Both are non sport, the 320i had 15 inch steel rims all season tires, my 325i has 16 inch alloy all season Conti tires.

    My thought is that I must be taking the corners much faster than I was in the 320i, 184 vs 168 horses, though it doesn't feel like it.
  • dave330idave330i Member Posts: 893
    4 choices:

    1. turn ASC off.

    2. take the corners slower.

    3. get a set of summer only performance tires.

    4. check your tire pressure. Make sure they are properly inflated.
  • shawn325ishawn325i Member Posts: 100
  • allanoallano Member Posts: 175
    30/35 seems a little low. For what it is worth, my dealer has both my daughter's 330xi and my 325xi wagon at 35 front, 40 rear (I think recommended is somewhere around 32 front/38 rear). Having said that, I would recommend that you follow the tire pressure table posted low on your driver's side door opening.
    Hard to tell your driving style from a distance so please excuse my suggestions if you are doing so already. Another hint is to enter turns smoothly; don't snap the wheel to some position and hold it but rather start to turn smoothly and then search for the the right wheel angle for your turn. By doing this, you let the suspension settle and can compensate for any transient vehicle dynamics (although the tail of my wagon has never wagged -- even in panic lane changes).
    I've been fooled by the subjective feel of the car in turns. I would round a familiar corner at a higher rate of speed than my previous car and get a "ho-hum" rather than a "wow" reaction because BMW turns with such ease. The car does not lean, I'm held laterally by the seats and the car tracks the corner with no tire creep - as if the car is saying "ho-hum". Enjoy the margin.
  • dave330idave330i Member Posts: 893
    I don't believe unsettled chassis is your problem, but another way to settle your chassis is to tap your brakes lightly before you enter a turn.
  • twoof1twoof1 Member Posts: 308
    Let's all say a prayer
  • habitat1habitat1 Member Posts: 4,282
  • shawn325ishawn325i Member Posts: 100
    your right about the smoothness, infact that's half the problem. Agressive driving in my 325i is different than aggressive driving in any other car I've driven. In my 325i it doesn't seem all that aggressive until I look at the speedo and realize we're moving pretty fast.

    I'll check again, but I thought the sticker stated 30 front 35 rear.
  • lorenllorenl Member Posts: 2
  • lorenllorenl Member Posts: 2
    I have been shopping for 2002 330i with navigation, xenon, metallic paint, SP, PP, and automatic. The best deal I got is 2K about invoice. I live in bayarea. I heard that people said LA offers better deal (2k+ better than in bayarea). Do anyone of you have experience about it? Can you refer me to any dealer you have worked with? Many thanks.

    Loren
  • twoof1twoof1 Member Posts: 308
    Try Cutter Motors in Santa Barbara. Ask for Michael Graeme. They are an awesome dealership and Mike in particular is a great supporter on this board.
  • silverprincesssilverprincess Member Posts: 75
    You can also try BMW of San Francisco (check out their website www.bmwsf.com - it's pretty cool!) and ask for Adrian Avila. I just took delivery of our CPO 1999 323i manual/4dr/jet black/sand leather/ SP/moonroof/fold-down rear seats/wood trim/in-dash CD, and only 16236 miles.....for $25,990! I think that is a super deal since KBB/Edmunds TMV prices it for around $29K. My experience with this dealership and salesperson was very painless - I found the vehicle with all the options I wanted (all except the Xenons) on the internet by going to www.bmwusa.com and doing a radial search in the bay area, called the dealership, corresponded with Adrian via phone/email over 1 week, negotiated a final price, put a down over the phone, and took delivery on Aug 31! Adrian was very professional and honest. Go check out their dealership - it's one of the most impressive ones I've ever seen! Hope this helps.
  • dave330idave330i Member Posts: 893
    don't you have to pay an extra .25% for buying it in San Francisco?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    In California, to protect car sales across counties, the sales tax on a car transaction is assessed at whatever the rate is in your HOME COUNTY, not the county in which the transaction takes place. Thus, I, as a resident of Sacramento County, would pay 7.5% anywhere I buy a car in California. As far as I know, this exemption applies only to car sales, not to any other kind of purchase. So, no difference whether you buy the car in SF or LA or wherever.
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