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Incidentally, if anyone's interested, the car & key settings adjust relay type dip-switches so that if the battery is disconnected or in some capacity power is totally lost your personal car & key settings are not lost.
gearman - I'm sorry but I have to totally disagree with your post on BMW and xenons, as well as the Q45. Firstly (and anyone please correct me if I'm wrong) Renault have absolutely nothing to do with the "all Japan" Q45. The Q45 is a Nissan designed, engineered and manufactured RWD big sedan. Renault haven't even offered a RWD (except The Alpine cars which are quite different) in many, many years. The Safrane, their largest car, uses a longitudinally mounted engine (who's design was used for the creation of Chrysler's full size cars) driving the front wheels. I'm fully aware of Renaults stake in Nissan Motor Manufacturing, but saying that the Q is a Renault is like saying that the Aston Martin Vanquish is a Ford. A spectacular misunderstanding of how the global motor industry works. Just because one car company may be now 'owned' by a parent company doesn't mean their cars are in any way developed by that company.
Xenon lights - almost exactly 'the wrong way round'. BMW was one of the first companies to offer xenons on their cars. Most of the better car companies (except MBZ on their newer models for decidedly eye brow raising reasons) use an ellipsoid lens to better focus/direct the light onto the road in front of the car and to prevent 'dispersion' or light that naturally goes every which way out of the lamp. Note how only 3 or 5 series with xenons use the more expensive ellipsoid lenses (aka polyellipsoid lenses). In addition, the xenon cars use (an electronic gyroscope) self leveling system to ensure that, regardless or how the car is loaded, the lights don't end up pointing towards on coming traffic. The bluish hue is caused by the light defracting at the sides of the lenses (see the cover to 'Dark side of the moon'). Audi use P.E.T. (another aka for the lenses) lenses on all their models even w/out xenons. Given all of the technology that BMW employs in it's application of xenons, $500 is a total bargain and, quite frankly, I don't think they make any money at all on this option. Take a look at what Porsche get for 'Lighttronic' (or is it Litetronic? - that's Bosch's TM name for their design of xenons) or even MBZ and then think about the $500 fee. The vast majority of other "luxury" cars, such as the Infiniti I30/I35 or Acura TL/RL etc offer xenons (just like BMW/Mercedes therefore they're luxury cars too!) but don't use these more expensive set ups, solely because of the significant extra cost incurred as a result of doing it 'the engineers' way. Pay attention, next time that car with the annoying xenons is driving towards you, is it really a BMW ??? I think not.
It's the 'other' mfg's whose xenons diffuse out into oncoming traffic that pose a problem.
I haven't done this with a BMW, but when I turn on the xenons in my A4 and I'm facing a wall, there is a distinct line where the light cuts off. Very little diffusion at all. I'd venture that the BMW xenons do the same thing.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I was in between meetings on my way to my office this morning (driving the Z3), traveling in the passing lane of a three-lane (6 total, separated by concrete median) highway. There's a constant downpour today (enough to cause fog-like "mist" from cars' tires), and I was following a maroon, newish Ford Ranger about 75 yards (admittedly, too close for conditions) behind. Traffic was flowing at about 60 mph. The driver apparently hit a whole semi tire in the road, which sent him/her into a spin across the left two lanes, teetering on two wheels at times. He then went nose-first into the concrete median, coming to a rest. All of this probably took less than two seconds, total. I luckily had a way out by swerving across the right two lanes, barely avoiding the tire and his/her spinning tail end. The truck appeared to be pretty well totaled, and we had just passed a parked state trooper with his lights on about 1/4-mile back, so he saw and was speeding to the scene. I cannot estimate the severity of the injuries to the driver, but in any case, help was there within seconds. I hope s/he is OK.
I do not believe I would have been able to adequately avoid a second collision in more than a handful of cars. I would have either hit the truck, or have gone into a spin myself, given the severity with which I was forced to swerve. No drama, spinning, or the like, even during hard braking/swerving, in rain-soaked conditions. I would have felt equally comfortable in the 330, and I doubt too many cars, short of having AWD, would have performed as predictably/flawlessly as what I experienced. I attribute it to superb chassis dynamics and 50/50 weight distribution (along with nearly brand-new tires).
Let's be careful out there.
I actually care more about unlocking vs. locking signal. Really like the auto roll down of the windows, but hard to tell when to keep pressing the button.
The '$34 start range' for a loaded 1999 in the Bay Area is way too high! Look at what I paid as a comparison. (I'll admit, you need to have a lot of patience to wait for a CPO with the options that you want and constantly do your research/radial search for CPO's @ bmwusa.com): 1999 323i 4dr/manual/jet black/sand leather/ SP/wood trim/moonroof/rear-folding seats/in-dash CD/cruise/and only 16k miles....out the door price of $28,205! Took delivery at the end of August from BMW of San Francisco. I've put in 1000 miles so far without any problems. Regrets? The only option that I really wanted that my bimmer doesn't have are the Xenons. And believe what everyone else have been saying about the $500 option price. Aftermarket for these start at $900!
I have to agree with 'Silverprincess' that your pricing sounds high...
I bought a new (very loaded) 2001.5 325I (lthr, roof, step, sp, etc) for a little over 31K plus TTL, or about 34K drive out...
I would keep looking, or bid much lower for the vehicle you are currently looking at (all IMHO). Good luck!!
Best Regards,
Shipo
If you have not found the site yet, check out http://www.aero-news.net for the latest information about when VFR might possibly start again.
Alan
I rather thought that the BMWUSA site already offers a "Build It" feature including all options (except unpublished special order options like cloth seats).
Best Regards,
Shipo
I just ran another search for CPO's within 500 miles of my zip (95014) and the only 328's in the low-30's were both higher mileage and less well equipped than the 328 i'm looking at. I don't doubt that better deals are available but it seems to me that some of that might at least depend on your location. There's a lot of demand in the SF Bay area.
I've told the dealer I'll take the car for $31k. I'm comfortable with that, even if it's costing me $1-$2k more than it would elsewhere in the country. And I see no strong indication I could get a new 325 equipped the way I'd like for anything under $34k on a good day in the bay area.
So, I'll take a bit of extra torque, mileage, and $3k in savings this time around. Thanks again for everybody's help.
twj
- 1999 328i 5-speed, every option, spotless, 25k miles, all records $27,999. (I've dealt with this dealership (VOB) and spoke to one of the sales managers - it is truly in near new condition, with EVERY option and they would probably let it go for about $26.5k).
- 1999 528i auto, premium, xenons, etc. 29k miles: $30,988
- 1998 540i 6-speed, all options, 38k miles: $37,800
It would appear that West Coast used car prices are considerably higher than in the East.
I just hope the enthusaism for paying top dollar for a three year old car exists after I buy new. Although I have historically held cars for quite a while, I'd be happy to keep trading up every 2-3 years if it only cost me a few thousand in depreciation and nothing in scheduled maintenance.
Thanks for the informative post on the types of lenses used in the xenon lights of various manufacturers. Since I'm not an optician, please elucidate as to the pros/cons of the two lens types you cited in this application.
As to the night glare problem that I've noted with bimmers, I'm not alone in that opinion among my office colleagues and friends, most of whom can spot an E36 at fifty paces in the dark. The problem cars that i've cited were indeed bimmers, and not mbz, honda, GM or other products.
Hence the question: with all of the technical wizardry that you decribed being incorporated into the bmw's xenon light design, why the glare problem? And i'm not referring to the vertical cut-off issue; that's a different matter, and bmw is among those manufacturers who handle that aspect quite well. What is the effect of the two lens designs you mentioned on glare; and do the two lens types present different manufacturing challenges?
In the area where I work / live, bimmers are more popular than Camrys, so the problem is both noticeable and is exacerbated by the large number of bmw (and explorer, curiously enough) drivers in my area who seem to be so non-involved with the act of driving that it's common to see the foglights also glaring, when there is no fog. Just like the sun-city retirees slowly crusing along in an LS400 with a turn signal going for miles on end. When the glare of the xenons is combined with the fog lights pointed at pluto, on coming drivers are generally annoyed.
Regarding the blue hue, I think it's terrific.
As to your second point, by vocation and avocation I am quite familar with the operations of automobile companies and the issues associated with consolidation of business units so as to generate economies of scale sufficient to justify acquisition investment decisions,
Futhermore, the Aston Martin Vanquish is indeed a Ford product. If its' not a Ford whose is it? Toyota? Ford's materials labs in Michigan, supported by both UK and US subcontractors, did the work on the clever materials applications, for example. The terrific V-12 is, surprisingly enough, a massive derivation of the 60 degree V-6 design used in the Taurus and contour. the under skin HVAC systems are commonly sourced, but the vanquish uses unique switchgear. etc.
Renault has far more than a "stake" in Nissan: They invested billion, saved the company from bankrupcy, seized management control, and are moving to consolidate processes and implement Renault business procedures so as to achieve sufficient economies of scale to generate targeted IRRs in support of the original investment decision. The gentleman running Nissan is a Renault problem solver of the first order, and he has achieved tremendous results, with more on the way.
As to the products produced by the various Renault units around the world, the Q45 was, as you described, developed in Japan by local engineering staff. It's the last hurrah for the Japanese products developed before Renault began to fully impose their business disiplines upon Nissan and to aggressively seek out areas for generating economies of scale.
Upcoming Renault /Nissan products will be sharing varying amounts of components, platforms (and sometimes styling themes) developed both in France and Japan for different applications. The 240Z replacement being a good example and uses several elements of the Renault design vocabulary now being introduced. Both the Japanese and French product lines of Renault will benefit, no matter if they carry "nissan' or 'renault' badges.
While advertising types like to differentiate between 'toyotas' and lexus, they are, as i suspect you know, all produced by toyota, no matter what label. Just as a Chevrolet Omega in Brazil is an Opel Omega in Germany or a Cadillac Catera (for another few months) in the US. Economies of scale and commonality of components and platforms do indeed erode the traditional product brand differentiators.
so i paid ~$2000 less for a used car with a little more torque, and maybe a few more options.
the ~$35k figure is indicative of other CPO cars i've found in the bay area -- hence my point that, according to general indications in my area, $31k is a reasonable price.
twj
Unless I am very mistaken, the E36 was not offered with an option for Xenon lights, they first appeared as an option on the 1999 E46 (at least for the 3-Series).
FWIW, I agree about being bugged by folks using fog lights on clear nights. However, it is my understanding that true "Fog Lights" are aimed very gradually down starting from their low position on the front of the car, this is so that they do not reflect off the fog and blind the driver. I suspect that the folks on Pluto would not be able to see them unless there has been some front-end damage to push the fog lights out of alignment. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Nuf said.
As for the heated seats, we've only had about two months of winter conditions since we got the car in January, so our use has been rather limited. I also have them in the Z3, which I suspect will come in very handy for those brisk, top-down, autumn drives.
I am expecting mine in 3-4 days now.
burrsr, yes great analogy: two flavors of the same wonderful ice cream. Would you keep the steel gray or is there another color that catches your eye more? Frankly, my hardest option decision was between steel gray and titanium silver.
The 3-series hold up their value very well over time. This makes used 3-series relatively less attractive than new ones. A new 330 may be worth the 4-6 grand premium over a new 325 - it all depends on buyer preferences. However, the 330 is an awesome bargain compared to the 328 - its base price was only $550 more than the 328's. This makes used 328 cars less of a bargain - if they were almost as expensive as the 330 when they were new, used ones would be relatively expensive as well. I certainly think it is unwise to buy a 3-year old 328 for $2,000 more than a brand-new 325. Especially a 3-year old 328 that has been driven so hard that all brake pads and front rotors had to be replaced after only 3 years...
In terms of your color choice. I was tied between steel gray and silver. Steel gray is definately a great color, but when compared to silver in different light conditions, it loses out. Even my dealer suggested silver, so we went with it.
I ended up with silver since that's Germany's F1 color.
I use them rather than my regular beams (which I consider to be somewhat intrusive to on-coming traffic in hilly terrain) on rainy or heavy-overcast days when I want someone to notice me.
I also use fog lights when entering our camp-ground at 10:00PM and can attest to the fact that they hardly get above knee level -- even on irregular roads (the bodiless legs that shipo referred to early). Unless mine are miss-aligned, it is pretty hard to see very far on gravel roads in pitch-black conditions.
Yes, I have been beyond satisfied with the Steel Grey. I would choose it again easily. However, I am somewhat partial to Greys (Z3 is Sterling Grey). They are a bit conservative, yet classy, and they seem to be very durable in terms of dirt showing, UV resistance, etc. By the time I'm ready for new, I suspect other variations of Grey may be available -- there's a particularly elegant blue-green-grey (not sure of its exact name) in the 5-series that I hope they make available in the 3er. Having said all that, my second-favorite color is the Titanium Silver, and I don't think you can go wrong there -- looks particularly stunning with the 330 SP, IMHO. Platypus (poster from way back a few thousand posts) had some great pics of his 330 in TS with SP when he did the Euro Delivery.
Perhaps the 5-series color you're talking about is Anthracite? I like both it and the Sterling Grey better than Steel Grey offered in the 3er, but I think it will do just fine for me.
I also enjoy the various blues that BMW employs throughout all model lines.
Some initial impressions:
Ride/Handling
My 323i had the Sport Package (with Sport Suspension and extra wide performance tires). The 325Xi has the AWD Sport Package without the Sport Suspension and performance tires. There is a difference but in my opinion I like the 325Xi better. The ride is quieter and more comfortable with only a marginal loss in handling. I like to take exit ramps as fast as possible and I do not notice any body roll. I'm very happy with the ride and handling.
Engine
The extra 14HP and other changes are noticeable. When I had test drove the 325Xi I thought the salesperson gave me a 330Xi. That was how different the torque was in the low and passing gears. The 325Xi feels faster and more resonsive than the 323i. Plus the new engine has great sound, especially when you start it. All-in-all an excellent improvement.
Braking:
The 325Xi braking feel is much better. Less fade and a tighter feel at the pedal.
Steering
The 323i steering was heavier although that might have been do to the extra wide tires. Those tires tracked every grove in the road. It's a toss up here. I liked the 323i feel but I also like the slightly less heavy 325Xi.
Stock Audio
The 325Xi stock audio is better than the 323i. BMW must have been listening to the complaints. Although to be honest I was not unhappy with the 323i stock audio. After a break-in period of about two weeks and with the treble and bass boosted the sound was fine. I listen to jazz, classical and R&B and do not expect nor want a "boom-box" bass effect. In any case the stock audio is great. Glad I did not spend the extra for the HK.
Steering Wheel
The new Sport Steering Wheel has a completely different feel. Even the leather is different. Looks like they eliminated the plasticy clear coat that was on the 323i leather wheel. This new wheel is superior in feel and quality.
Leather vs Leatherette
I had Sand Leatherette in my 323i. I ordered Topaz Blue for the 325Xi and felt that Gray was the best match so I had to order the Leather. Both are excellent choices and you can't go wrong with either. However I love the smell of the Leather interior and in my opinion the Leather seats are softer and more comfortable.
Other Differences
BMW has made a few subtle changes that I noticed. First the weight of the doors has decreased. In my 323i due to the weight I used to have to really push the door hard when getting out to avoid the door swinging back. Not so in the 325Xi. It's lighter.
I have fold down rear seats and on the 325Xi the levers in the trunk to release the seat are of a thiner and lighter construction.
I ordered the 325Xi without a sunroof. I never used it on the 323i. The result is a lot more headroom that allows me to raise the seat and still have some headroom. Saved money and got more room. This was an important advantage of ordering a car since all BMWs on the lot have sunroofs.
FYI: I ordered the car on June 22 and received it on September 18. I had a one month delay beacuse of a shortage of AWD components. Ordered through Clasic BMW in Turnersville, NJ (now called BMW of Turnersville). I would recommend them. Very easy to work with. No experience with their service dept as yet.
Hope this information is helpful.
Another thought, the E46 engines run on synthetic oil, given how well said oil flows when cold, the damage to our engines during warm-up is dramatically reduced when compared to engines lubricated with good old fashioned Dino-Juice.
Yet another thought, I have noticed that my 328i warms up faster than any car I have ever driven. Even in the dead of winter, I have noticed that the temperature gauge has already achieved lift off by the time that I am only 100 yards or so down the road from my driveway.
All of this to say, set the climate control and forget it.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Kchaus - Most manufacturers that offer automatic climate control systems indicate that there is no requirement to deactivate the a/c compressor prior to shut down so as to reduce the electrical load (and mechanical load upon the starter motor) upon startup). On the other hand, logic suggests that over time reducing component stress over a large number of cycles should increase component life. But then again, starter motors are generally very durable. I have the vague recollection of reading somewhere that the newer engine management systems have the capability to vary the a/c compressor cycle times under certain operating conditions and to disengage the a/c compressor during maximum throttle opening and during engine starting. Does anyone know about that?
Dunde- The condition that you describe (foul smelling air wafting from the interior vents following a/c compressor disengagement) is partially atributable to the increased humidity of the vent air entering the cabin once the dehumidifying effects of the a/c system are no longer being applied. Therefore, you should feel warmer & more humid air, but not foul smelling air.
Foul smelling air under those conditions is commonly caused by a/c system condensation not being properly drained from the a/c system plenum over time, thus permitting possible stagnant accumulations of dirt and debris to begin to fester into fetid folds of foul-smelling mold colonies. Since its dark in there, mushrooms are generally not found, but who knows, Jimmy Hoffa may be in there. This condition is ususally caused by the moisture drain at the bottom of the a/c plenum becoming clogged by dirt or debris, thus producing the collection of damp, rotting, steaming piles of, well, there I go again. The condition can be easily fixed by clearing out the moisture drain, removing the aforesaid collection of damp, rotting, mouldering, steaming piles of...stuff and then cleaning the area with household bleach. If you park outside or other wise drive in areas where there are some amounts of leaves, twigs, dirt, an other stuff that can fall or get sucked into the plenum, you may have to clean that area out now and again.
I think that on my car the temperature gauge is coolant/block (or head) temp, not oil, however, I would love to have an oil temp gauge as well. As such, I wait a little longer to really start pushing things. Like you, I start moving almost immediately after starting the car and belting in.
Dunde,
It is not at all unusual to have a funny smell on any car of any make after turning off the A/C compressor. Normally, said smelly air is also very humid, it is a result of some residual condensation from drying the inbound warm moist air. Once that water has drained out of the car, and the air path has dried out, the smell will be gone. This normally should not take more than a couple of minutes, if the smell persists longer than that, I would take the car in for service. Way back in ancient times (1970’s) when I was turning lots of wrenches, I came across a Ford Galaxy that smelled bad all of the time and really bad when the A/C was first turned off. It turned out that a mouse had gotten into the system and died. During the winter, the heater had dried the poor thing out, however, in the spring, the condensation water made it moist again and it started to rot. I trust that you do not have such a problem.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
I installed an oil temperature gauge in my old BMW2002 and found that it does not tell you too much more than your coolant temperature gauge (which did move on that model). It either lags or precedes (don't remember which) movement of the coolant gauge (up/down hills, thruway driving).
It was a VDO unit specifically made for the car. The sensing unit was part of the oil drain plug with wires to the gauge head which I put in a gauge pack (oil temp, oil pressure, battery voltage) next to the main instrument panel. I almost installed a vacuum gauge but decided not to care about gas mileage ($.35/gal for 'high test').
Your experience with a dead mouse is not unique -- what a smell!! I could never find where it sacrificed itself.
Apparently I also got Bi-Xenons instead of just the low beam Xenons. Is that possible on a 2001 325i??
Thanks