By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
325i 1.8T
0-60 7.0 7.2
0-100 19.9 20.1
Based on their test numbers above, the two cars would be dead even from 60 to 100. In triple-digits, the 325i slowly pulls away. I find these numbers very interesting because on paper, the 1.8T should have an advantage over the 325i. Its power-to-weight is 16.9 lbs/hp compared to the 325i's 17.7 lbs/hp. Peak torque is nearly identical (175 vs. 174 peak BMW/Jetta) but the 1.8T's torque curve must be better with peak torque running all the way from 1,950 to 5,000 RPM's. So OK, if the power-to-weight ratio and torque advantage go to the Jetta, why is the 325i marginally faster? I am guessing it's the 3-series' efficient drivetrain and probably aerodynamics at higher speed. At 20 grand, the 1.8T seems like a good deal,though.
That leads me to another advantage RWD has over FWD (at least in the case of transverse engine/transaxle layouts), the FWD car is very hard if not impossible to design a Straight through transmission due to packaging limitations. What you wind up with instead is something like a 4.11 gear ratio in the differential coupled to a transmission that has 4th and 5th (and sometimes 3rd) gears setup as Overdrives (output shaft is spinning faster than the input shaft).
Best Regards,
Shipo
Just curious - I too have a can in my trunk and would just as soon not have to find out the answer for myself. :-)
What is this mobility system a couple of you are talking about?
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
http://www.circlebmw.com/parts/access/mobilitykit-cat.htm
That brings me to another point, TOTAL speculation mind you. Consider the following final drive ratios:
2.93/3.38 – 330i Manual/Automatic
3.15/3.46 – 325i Manual/Automatic
3.39/4.27 – Jetta VR6 Manual/Automatic
3.94/4.43 – Jetta 1.8t Manual/Automatic
Based upon the above specifications, you can see that the output shaft from the transmission will be turning the slowest at any given speed on a 330i Manual when compared to any of the listed cars. To me at least, it seems logical that if you have one car with slower turning components (once again, at any given speed) when compared to another, you should have lower mechanical friction losses than the car with the higher component speeds. IF this is true, the 325i 5-Speed will enjoy a slight mechanical advantage over a VR6 Jetta 5-Speed between 1st and 4th gears, and then a substantial advantage when both cars are in fifth.
Hopefully, I am not too far from the mark.
Best Regards,
Shipo
BTW, I looked up the numbers again and I realized that my 1.8T 0-100 number was off. I thought it was 20.1 while in fact it was 20.7 (all numbers provided by C&D). In other words, the 325i picks up half a second over the 1.8T from 60 to 100. Well, the advantage in that range (if any at all) was only marginal, certainly not half a second. I am now convinced that the 1.8T must have been chipped because I was upshifting swiftly at the redline in every gear without being able to muster half a second advantage. The 1.8T's driver seemed very experienced and had an aptitude for spirited driving - likely the type who would chip their car (1.8T's are popular for that) Oh, and the 325i does 119 mph at redline in fourth, so I didn't experiment too far with the fifth.
Does the 330i feel cramped inside. I have two young children with car seats. Thanks for any info you can provide.
I can say neither car has a bountiful backseat,but at least witw the BMW you do get a exceedingly trim,easy to park car.
I much prefer the 3-series,as most here would,but the GS is nice,too.
On another note, I got a largish chip in my windshield from a runaway rock, any idea what it costs to replace or repair it?
A chipped 1.8t? Never heard of such a thing! ;-)
Dave,
A couple of things; first, you should be able to negotiate at least $1,000 off of MSRP on a 2001 model, if not $1,500 or even $2,000, given the fact that many folks (not all though) are able to negotiate at least a little off MSRP on a 2002 model.
Second, while I have never been in either the GS or the new ES, on paper at least, the GS has a combined 2.8" extra leg room over the 330i so it would be better for kids in car seats if you plan on long trips. My wife and I have a Caravan for longer trips with the family, so rear seat room is not as important to me as it might otherwise be, my children ride in the 328i to and from school and occasionally into NYC. Anyway, when I was shopping for my 328i, I took my young’uns to the dealership car seats and all, and strapped them in on a test drive to check how their feet hung between the seats when the seats were set for me (I am 5’8” and a little longer of leg than most folks of that height). As it turned out, I found the 328i to be JUST acceptable, however, on drives longer than 30 minutes, I do hear some complaining from the peanut gallery back there.
Third, I have heard from time to time folks criticize the E46 3-Series about being too noisy. My response to myself has always been “What’s up with that???” My car is so quiet that if I have even moderate volume on the sound system, I have to REALLY concentrate when shifting gears in traffic; otherwise, I get the car lurching and jerking as if I was just learning to drive a manual transmission. On long cruise control type trips, I find virtually everything about my car to be nearly perfect. Of course, there are often times on some trips that I want to turn off the cruise control and find a nice winding two-lane road for some variety. ;-)
Not that it is much of an issue for many folks, but the 3-Series gets great mileage on the open road, I just got 35.4 mpg on a trip to Fayetteville, WV (1,100 miles round trip) with an average speed in the low to mid 70’s. On the other hand, I have heard that the 6 and 8 cylinder engines from Lexus are not too economical on long trips (just hearsay from some of the more vocal Lexus supporters here at Edmunds), just another item to factor in.
Good luck in your search.
By the way, I recently tested a 530i with my 7-year-old son in his booster seat, and he had a lot more room than the 528i I tested back in 1998. Even though the specifications have not changed since then, it seems that BMW has re-engineered the seat backs of the front seats to allow for some more room. You might want to test that car as well.
Best Regards,
Shipo
P.S.
I get the impression that you are looking for a car with an automatic transmission, however, another potential advantage of either of the above two BMW cars is the availability of a manual gearbox, if you are so inclined.
Windsield: I got a chip on my Explorer and it took $65 to fix it and seal it (covered by my insurance) in NY. I can see the crack slightly, but it has a lifetime warranty that it wont crack and spread - or they will replace the windshield. Guy did it in 20 min at my home. I dont know how much it would cost to replace the whole thing.
In the end it's just personal preference. There really is no right or wrong on these cars, just what's right for you. Drive them both on Long test drives and then decide. Either way you can't make a mistake here.
most times you'll have a slow leak because the offending piece is still stuck in there, and you are MUCH better off pumping it up with air rather than sealing it... RESIST the temptation to overfill with air, the additional pressure might force out the object and then you will have to fix-a-flat it...
yes, the tire place WILL charge you more to fix it once you put the sealant in, and sometimes it's (the tar) unusable once you've put the sealant in... also, if you do have to use the sealant, make SURE you tell the tire guy that you did...
possibly before people throw a response out, they might want to think everything through first... what initially seems better/cheaper, isn't always so... one m mobility system, around 125 bucks, one s-02 pp, 240 bucks... you decide...
about the touchup paint... yes, you have to clearcoat it after you apply the paint, otherwise you will not get a correct color match...
-Chris
Go Illini!
Go Bears!
If I calculated yours correctly, it's in the 68-69% range. You could not get that again today.
I found it very informative. I had no idea that snow/ice tires are effective not solely because of the tread (i.e. useful only when there is snow/ice on the road) but also because the rubber compound is formulated to perform in a temperature range. So while all-seasons have a wide range, dedicated snows will work best at colder temps.
Conversely, summer tires that offer optimum handling in pleasant weather will be as hard as rocks in temps below freezing. So those of you with summer tires (Brave?) might want to consider separate winter shoes for your babies.
And now to the fun stuff:
The lineup of cars was as follows (in no particular order):
Miata with perf. tires
Prelude
'85 M6 with snow tires
Subaru Impreza
Acura CL/TL/whatever
318is (mine)
Cavalier
Honda CRX
We started on the skid pad to handle understeer. It was a strange feeling, holding the steering steady trying to build up speed enough to get the tires squealing and inducing understeer. We learned to control it using throttle. I think my poor instructor may need his hearing checked. (I'm not sure who was squealing louder, my tires or me)
Then on to the slalom where I learned how good my ABS is. They set up a run that had us do emergency braking, collision avoidance and rapid sharp turns. I enjoyed this part of the day immensely.
We then had a fun run where we incorporated the skid-pad turns, Chicago boxes, chicanes and slaloms. I found I enjoyed this part but was not as fast as some of the others (the Miata guy and my brother in my car). Some of the guys were just spinning tires and squealing but weren't going anywhere fast.
I wasn't fastest, but OTOH, I didn't crash any pylons. I can practice and get faster.
I'm definitely hooked and will consider autox next year (after I get some practice).
Not sure if you knew this - donuts are kinda like what you did in driving school - drive the car in circles spinning the tires.
Are you sure it was understeer you did on the skidpad, not oversteer?
Being smooth is always the key to lapping faster time. Just keep working on being smooth, and slowly increase your speed.
i really think you should consider selling your bimmer, because no one should have to put up with anything as aggravating as a chime...
genie - hopefully some others out here will learn from your "tire experience"... but i doubt it... brave, you ain't gonna be able to get the temp in the tires... trust me... some of us having been trying to convince you of this (please see mine and others posts pointing out what genie pointed out about compounds)... if you want to take your life (and your bimmer) in your hands, so be it... but please stop posting with implications that what you are doing is correct, it is not, and you are going to deceive people who don't know any better... i'm not saying i know all that much about bimmers (and cars in general), but i do have an idea of who the people out here who do, and it would do you some good to listen to them...
-Chris
This car is eminently tossable. I did notice all the instructors were eager to demonstrate technique to me using my car.
Having said that, I just checked the Edmunds TMV calculator for a "Private Party" resale and my car in "Clean" condition has a buyout that is about $450 less than TMV and $1,650 less than the "Excellent" TMV. It looks like 65% calculation was just about spot on.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
bankers DO NOT like uncertainty...
-Chris
As it turns out, my current leasing company (BancOne) is playing hardball with me regarding my lease end options. I called them last week to discuss my lease termination, and I asked them if I could extend my current lease 12 months with no additional miles, so as to be able to take advantage of the miles that I have already paid for.
Get this, I was told that if I was to extend my lease, they would use the cars' current market value $32,000 (like at a dealership used car lot) as the basis of the new lease NOT the residual value of $26,605 (includes all lease termination and transfer fees) AND they also require me to purchase an additional 15K miles. I was stunned. I asked why they were asking me to re-pay depreciation that I had already paid for, their answer, "That is just the way we do it."
It now looks like I have two options, sell the car myself at lease end and lease a new 330i or find another leasing company to buy the car from BancOne for the pre-calculated $26,605 and write me a new lease (I have found two companies that are willing to do this).
Best Regards,
Shipo