BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

rjg96

I have an 01 325i - May build. Its had an annoying rattle that from inside the seatbelt height adjuster mechanism over rough roads since day 1. Dealer claimed they couldn't hear it.
Today, I was driving the car, and heard the rattle. It ticked me off as usual- but I saw a hardware store and an idea popped into my head. I went in, found some self adheisve felt strips meant for furniture, and went out to the parking lot. I removed my B pillar cover by yanking off the lower door sill trim, then pulling out the bottom black plastic B pillar cover. Finally, I remoced 2 plastic pins holding the upper cover in place. With some maneuvering, I got it off (still hooked to the belt), and looking inside. It seemed like there was plenty of stuff that could be the culprit of the rattle, so put felt everywhere I could. I think the main thing that helped was placing the felt strips between the peice that seatblet actually runs thorugh and the metal behind it-- there was some play and it seemed like the mechanism could be banging against the metal. I also placed felt over anything on the outer cover that could contact pieces that were attached to the frame of the car. I stuffed felt in some other crevicee for good measure. Finally, I lined the ends of the lower door sill trim with felt because I had another rattle that seemed to be coming from there. Put the whole thing back together and found some rough roads-- the car sounds like its carved from a solid piece of metal now. Before, it sounded like a 75 Chrysler over bumps. So frustration + hardware store = probem solved. Of course, now that the big noises are gone, I'm hearing very subtle noises that will be impossible to fix-- I need to "untrain" my ears--or get a job as a QA person for an auto company. Hope this helps anyone experience the rattles I've described. I also noticed that one of my rear headrests makes a sqeaking noise if presssed-- but it doesn't seemto make noise on the road. I'm surprised that all 3 series don't have the B pillar rattle-- it seems like the design of the cover and the mechanism would create rattles- not the assembly of it. I guess some people just don't hear it. One more thing-- if you decide to do this-- I recommend pulling off the rubber door seals around the b pillar and door sillbefore trying to re-install everything. They're not held on by glue just by friction- and it was fairly easy to remove and put back on. If you don't --its almost impossible to get all of teh pieces back in.

huntzinger

Sounds like its a standard balloon loan. On a monthly payment & residual basis, they can be very competitive with a lease.

I noticed awhile back that my local credit union is now offering balloon loans for car purchases, so there's probably places other than just BMW who offers this type of financing near you...shop around.

FWIW, one of the potential "catches" would be what interest rate is offered on the refinancing of the balloon. Its not as huge of a problem with today's rate picture, but it never hurts to get a lock-down commitment now :-)

-hh

jonnyj

When I purchased a vehicle last year, I got the loan from our bank set up as a home equity loan, which allows us to deduct the interest. This, in effect, lowers our monthly payment. I urge all of you who are considering buying a vehicle to investigate doing this.

bing330i

After surfing the board and other sources for months, I placed my order yesterday: 330i, European Delivery, Silver (I know, I know, it is way too common, but .....), Black 'ette, SP, Bi-Xenon, Moonroof, and Steptronic. I wanted to thank you for the enlightenment from the board, especially shipo, brave1heart, platypus, errickson, jnscheong, kominsky, allano, burrsr, jrct9454, DrStan, and gurumike - your knowledge and insights have made me a better educated person and helped my decision making and purchasing process. I have kept all the posts I deemed useful in a word document. The first one is Brave1heart's Apr 05, 2001 (11:45 am) post. :->

Since I am still in the beginning of the process, I can only review my thoughts up to the ordering point:
* Dealers: I thank the internet for providing so much information. However, I still feel dealing with dealers is not a pleasant and smooth journey as I'd like. Many were quite snobby and shady (though I have to say the saleswomen I dealt with were more straight forward and not pushing). I wonder what value they added rather than being in a monopoly position.
* ED pricing: If a dealer has one ED specialist, it is harder to bargain as ED is his only money making machine. However, it is otherwise much easier as ED does not take allotment and any money they make would be additional to their regular profits.

A question: how long beforehand is a car produced before ED pick up? I have heard 2 to 3 weeks. My concern with production date is I do not like my car built around Xmas and New Year. But I think Europeans do not take a lot of time off during that time so it may not be a concern. Any thoughts? Shipo, you maybe the best person to answer as you worked in Germany before.

I still have a long way to go. I just wanted to thank those who've educated me. Will keep the board posted of my odyssey.

Best Regards,
Bing

rednblack

I have just ordered a European delivery on a 325i for late February.I have a couple of days to nail down a color choice.Any opinions on:

Steel gray/Black leather
Silver/Black leather
White/Sand leather

PS I live in the sunny south and I am also not the most faithful in keeping my car washed.Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

gurumike

You will be provided with a production week which will be met. In my experience, BMW builds cars in the specified production week practically 100% of the time. For your car, I can not imagine it being delayed. The factory is usually closed for Christmas for about 2 weeks in the second half of December. -- Obviously not the first half.

raavir

is European delivery available for Canadians. Can't decide 325xi or A41.8T Quattaro, any suggessions and comparisions please.

twoof1

rig96,
This is a common problem that has been discussed here many times. Tell your dealer that there is a Technical Service Bulletin issued for this exact problem. It is TSB# 720101 dated MAR 01 stated problem: Seat Belts - Click/Rattle From Upper Mount.
I had mine done last week and the repair order listed that they put in a shim of some sort. Problem fixed.
I would be very careful about stuffing a bunch of felt into that area as it could affect the locking mechanism that makes the seatbelt work.
Remember knowledge is power.

nobee

rednblack: I think the steel gray/black interior looks fantastic! it looked so good that i purchased one myself just last week! It just has that high-class look and feel to it...I think you'll enjoy the combo.

derprofi: I just got back from skiing the austrian slopes for the week. just amazing! It snowed the whole time we were there. Haven't picked up my new BMW so I rented a C class Mercedes. sidenote:The stabilization control (ESP) in the snow worked horribly...I'm wondering if the stab control in the bimmer is the same....hopefully not, if so, I think i made a mistake of buying a rwd. yikes! oh anyways, some places i recommend in seeing is Dauchau (concentration camp), Hitler's eagle's nest (it's near Chimese), the Salzburg shopping and sightseeing thing, and the little towns that dot Austria (St. Johann, Kitbuhel, Kaprun) should be a lot of fun...its been snowing really hard, so I'd recommend taking your skis with you also! Have fun!
-brian

john01

There is a new system for mounting baby seat to certain cars called ISOFIT/ISOFIX. BMW dealer here in Berlin actually carries them, and it has metal bars that connect to receptacles that are permanently attached to the car between the seat bottom and the seat back. It is standard on the 5, 7 and X, I believe, but should be able to retrofit in all recent model BMWs. Britax now makes toddler seat with ISOFIT, and I am sure others as well. Although I have not seen it actually mounted in the car, I believe it provides "foolproof" mounting of your child seat.

rjg96

twoof1-

I should've added more details to my post. My car was built after March, and I took it to the dealer for the problem-- and mentioned the TSB. They looked up the TSB and told me that it didn't apply to my car since it was built later. I took a dealer rep for a long drive and he told me that he couldn't hear the rattles- this was mostly due to him not paying attention and the fact that the roads around the dealership were unusually smooth (figures-- doesn't it). I really didn't feel like wasting more time bringing it back to that dealer or to another dealer only to have them say the same thing. I do have a sense of what I can mess with and what I shouldn't touch. In this case, I didn't just indiscriminately stuff felt inside the hole where the seatbelt goes-- sorry if my post made it sound that way. I disassembled the covering for the pillar and applied some self-stick felt between the ring that holds the belt and the metal frame of the car. I also applied felt in other places where metal could rub against plastic. The only thing that I might've interfered with is the height adjusting mechanism- but even that still works well. The seatbelt retracts with the same force as it did before. The fix I did is probably what a good dealership would've done-- felt is a great way to cure rattles. I understand your concern, and appreciate your adivce though- given my previous posting. I know that this issue has been discussed many times- but the only resolution was the TSB- which atleast in my case, didn't work. So, I thought it would be helpful to share my own solution to the problem. Sorry for not including all of this info in the previous post.

drox63

I'm new here, thinking about a 330xi. Bing, please, can you send me the word document you saved, at drox63@yahoo.com?

carsrcool

Anyone have a recommendation for a dealer in the SF Bay area? Went by BMW Concord and was startled to see everything on the lot with a "market value" add-on to the sticker. M3 was jacked up 20K over sticker. Convertible 5K over sticker. Normal 3 series at about 2K over sticker. What gives?

shipo

Dl7265,

Thanks for the info on the BMW Synth-Oil Part number, I will have to look up my receipts and see what they listed. Needless to say, I am going to be a little perturbed (to say the least) if I find out that Dino-Juice is in the engine, especially because of the sticker on our cars about using BMW Synth-Oil.

Bing330i,

Congratulations on you order for your ED 330i. I am unable to offer any enlightenment regarding the production schedule around the end of year holidays because I never worked over there during that time. Having said that, I would not worry at all about when your car is built, QC over there seems to be pretty tight year round.

RedNBlack,

Congratulations on you order for your ED 325i. Given that you live in the “Sunny South”, I would avoid a black interior like the plague. I was working on a project in Dallas back in the mid 1980’s and I had a rental car for almost a month that was Silver with a Black interior. I used to dread getting into that car. One day one of the “Bubba-Head” types that I worked with (he kept a stocked beer cooler in the bed of his pick-up) offered to help me out, he dumped a beer on my seat. I swear, the seat was so hot that none of the beer made it to the floor of the car, however, the seat was MUCH cooler. Thanks Bubba!

Best Regards,
Shipo

nyccarguy

As the lease on my Saab 9-3 reaches the 1 year to go mark, I'm starting to think about my next car (can you see the smoke coming from my ears?). The 3-series is definitely tops on my list. I was building my own on the BMWNA site and realized that the difference between the 325Ci & 330Ci with the options I would get (5-speed, leatherette, SP, Hot Seats, Bi-Xenon, Moonroof, & Power Seats on the 325) is under $100 a month on a 36 month/36,000 a year lease.

ccotenj

well, quickly working the numbers in my head, i hope it's less than 100 a month... is the money factor the same on both leases?

-Chris

nyccarguy

at the lease terms (money factor), just went strictly on the number that BMWNA website spit out at me. I just got excited by seeing how little different the lease payment is between the 2 cars.

nyccarguy

My parents are looking to get into a 330Xi when the lease is up on their CLK in April. Wide World of Cars (BMW/Ferrari in Spring Valley, NY) is the closest dealer to their house. Has anybody dealt with them? Can you recommend a sales associate there? If not, can I have your feedback on dealers you have bought/leased your car from? Thanks for your input!

smb1234

I have finally narrowed down my choices to an A4 (3.0 fwd) and a 330i. I'm leaning toward the BMW, but for cost considerations, will need to strip it down some. So here are my questions:

(1) How crucial is the pwr lumbar support? Are the seat backs fairly firm without it? I would prefer to avoid the premium package, and limit options to a sunroof and wood trim. But I have had back problems from time to time.

(2) How is the Sand leatherette? Is there a big drop off in quality from the Montana leather? Is it durable, easy to clean, etc.?

(3) Must I go with a factory-installed CD changer, or is it better to purchase separately down the road? Any compatibility issues? Can it be mounted in the glove box? I've heard conflicting things.

(4) Similar questions for the alarm system. Factory or separate purchase? Also, do I really need one? Read about the standard "drive-away protection." Is that sufficient?

(5) I read that "Auto Headlights" are standard, while "Auto Headlight Control" is an option that comes with the premium package. What's the difference?

(6) I'm leaning toward a Black 330i, and would prefer the Jet Black over the expenses of metallic paint. How hard is the standard black? Does it scratch easy? What about care and cleaning? Is there a big drop off from the metallic? I would probably be purchasing the car, with the idea of holding onto it for 6 years.

merckx

I like a really simple car,so I tend to not any of the options. Rather than a lot of extra items,I'd rather have a 525i.
1) I imagine manual lumbar standard,but I don't know. If so,do you really need an electric motor to replace wrist action/
2)Leatherette is easier to clean and will last far longer than leather. It does not breathe,but I'd say this is still a painless way to trim off $1,500 off the price.
3)How about just the standard,single slot CD?
4)An alarm I don't have much use for,but I live in the 'burbs.
5)Don't know-I still turn my lights on every evening.6
6)Standard black fine-I also like white with black 'ette.
7)Interior wood-do you really like it that much/I find it old-fashioned.

mfeldman

Got a crack in my right fog lite for the second time in 8 months. The first one cost me $150. Any ideas how I can get the dealer or bmw to pay this time. I'm afraid they'll tell me that its bad luck -- a rock just happened to hit the exact same spot again.

SMB The lumbar support is great. It's one of the few that can move up and down. If you have a back problem I highly recommend it.

ccotenj

well, the price difference in between them is about 5k right? so it makes sense that it should be less than 100 a month difference on the lease...

mfeldman - you need stongards...

-Chris

1pierce

For what it's worth,...

1. You should probably try this out at the dealer. The lumbar adjusts manually, so I would think it isn't that big a deal. After you buy sunroof and wood, haven't you spent a big chunk of the cost of the PP anyway? (I think the wood is cool - it adds an air of luxury to the interior. Some guys like the silver trim, though, because it is "sportier").

2. Everybody here who has leatherette seems to really like it. I've ridden in both. The leather is somewhat "nicer", and comes in two colors that aren't offered in 'ette. But is it $1500 nicer - I think not. Also, from what I've heard, the 'ette wears longer because it is synthetic. The leatherette also looks like leather to all but car aficionados and the very trained eye.

3. The car is pre-wired for a CD changer. I'd have no qualms about buying it aftermarket. Probably less than half the cost. Don't let them stick it on the floor of your trunk, though.

4. I would not have an aftermarket alarm installed. Other than stereo equipment, I'm very leery of aftermarket electronics installers messing with a very high-tech car. I've had an alarm on my last 3 cars - I would never have one added. Mine came in packages, or were on the car on the lot. Unless you live/drive in a high risk area (i.e., the worst part of a major city), I think the standard emobilizer system will protect your car. Also, alarms don't stop pros who are out to get your specific car. Get a sticker for the window that says you have an alarm - that will scare away the joy riders.

5. As long as the headlights can't be left on, how much more convenience do you need?

6. IMHO - I think non-metallic colors look better when they wear than metallics. ALL black cars are hard to maintain. Paint chipping is more the result of bad luck, excessive highway driving, or bad aerodynamics than paint hardness. I hate the fact that manufacturer's have convinced us that paying extra for metallic colors is OK. I know the pigment costs more, but they don't discount the cars w/cheaper pigment, so it should even out overall. IMO, buy the Jet Black, and set the $450 you saved aside to have your car exterior-detailed once a year. You'll probably be happier in the long run.

Good Luck!

jhatz1

I purchased a 1999 328i and was very pleased with the entire experience. Dealt with Paul Porier who was probably the most courteous salesperson I've had the pleasure of dealing with.

71vette

Having lived in Danville for over 5 years, I still regret the day I purchased a 5 series from Concord BMW back in 1989. I wish I could recommend a dealer, but nothing in the state of California would be on my list. Try going for an out-of-state dealer without the notorious California "added markup". One of the happiest moments of my life was when I moved back to the midwest.

tenet1

My 2001 325i (july production) started making annoying clicking/ticking noises when I went over bumpy roads within days after I purchased it. I sense that these sounds are coming from the glovebox area or the passenger door and checked for loose items and didnt find anything. Took the dealer for a spin but ofcourse she couldn't hear a thing.

My ears are very sensitive to this noise and it really bothers me when it occurs. Since I do not want to risk taking apart this assembly and fixing it myself, what are my other options? Apparently, the Technical Bulletin applies to earlier model cars than mine. Is there any way for me to confirm that it is the seatbelt noise and get it fixed.

Please advise.

nyccarguy

I was cruising by the dealer lot this weekend and saw a gorgeous Silver/Black 328Ci (MY2000) with a 5-speed, SP, Xenon, Leather, Moonroof, Hot Seats, & HK. It had 21,000 miles & The asking price was $31,995. The one thing that bothered me was the wheels had been replaced with the wheels of a 330 Sport package (which I like). Do you think the (original) wheels were pitted and scraped up enough for them to replace with brand new ones under their Certified Pre Owned program? Has anyone here bought their car CPO from a BMW dealer? Why did you decide to go CPO and are you happy with your decision?

carsrcool

Thanks for the info on Concord. Having moved to the Bay Area from Atlanta this year, I am clueless about the dealers here...but the pricing practice of "market value" markups on every vehicle on the lot really hits me wrong.

brave1heart

Jason,

I want to second tenet1's recommendation for the Peg Perego Primo Viaggio travel system. He was right that it has great build quality and it is very functional. We bought ours at Toys R Us - the stroller and car seat with one base were $350 total. The Primo Viaggio is slighly bigger than most other models so hopefully it will have a longer life cycle. It is also lighter than any other model and very easy to fold. It looks and feels great - I want plastic that good in my BMW!! The Duo Glider that my colleagues had recommended is too bulky for my taste and it may make more sense for a second child.

fpereira

Try MY BMW in Seaside. My understanding is you can get a non-M 3-series under MSRP in the SFBA, and sedans are less hot than the coupes. Decide what you're happy paying, make an offer, and politely walk if refused. It's the only way to tell if they'll accept.

You're right; ADP's on the stickers are a sign that you should run away.

Let us know how it goes; I for one have plenty more recommendations if MY BMW doesn't turn out well for you.

tenet1

Why put anything else in a Bimmer. Too bad they don't sell car seats for older kids in the US. I almost got one from London but decided against it since they are not approved for use here in the US.

My personal observation by using them in the 325 sedan is that while rear facing, they do not leave a lot of room for the seat in front of it slide back. I am 5' 7" and don't have a problem but I can see it being an issue for a bigger person. I have no complaints.

jasonkureejii

to have a look at the aforementioned infant seats. I'd like to especially see just how much room they actually take up back there. I'm only 5'8"...my wife, 5'7", so I usually have my seat pulled forward by a good bit for comfortable extension to the clutch. Hopefully, the jostling of the sports suspension will not bother infants too much.

brave1heart

to bing330i and all other posters who ordered their Bimmers recently. Yep, ED is a great deal, especially if you have frequent flyer miles and like to visit Europe. Good luck and keep us updated.

P.S. it seems incredible that we were at only 1,500 or so posts back in April.

rjg96

Sounds like you're clicking noise is coming from the passenger side? Mine was from the driver's side and was very obvious-- the seatblet is right at ear level -- and my rattle was loud over rough roads. If its from the passenger side-- have someone ride w/ you and put there ear very close to the adjuster mechanism-- it helps if you find a rough road to make the noise really come out. If it is the seatblet adjuster mechanism-- its really not that hard to take apart the trim-- i can send you instructions. Worse case, you break a piece of plastic trim that costs about $20. If you don't fix it yourself- you'll just keep ending up at the dealer in frustration and probably start to hate BMW and your car (that's how I felt).

I have another subtler rattle also from my driver's side that I haven't pinpointed- but I think it has something to do w/ the lower door sill trim-- possibly something similar on your passenger side? Haven't figured out where and how to fix this one yet.

rizzo7

I ordered my 02 330i from Wide World of Cars (spring valley, ny) back in August. They are a full class act dealership, and recommend them whole heartedly. Ask for Ben Bautista and tell him that Riz H. sent you. He'll set up you right!

mcnal01

Anyone have experience driving an xi in snow or icy conditions? I've been driving a Subaru Legacy for 6 years in all kinds of terrible winter conditions and it performs great. What can I expect from the xi?

thanks

nobee

Dealer just informed me of my production date! Production for US spec BMWs will start in January. My vehicle will be built the 1st week and i'll be able to pick it up the very next week! HALLALUJAH MY BROTHERS!
One question: Is the "break-in" period really necessary? If so, how long should you baby it? I'm very excited about driving it on the autobahn!
-brian

ccotenj

i did, and yes, it's been a good experience...

the reason i did was because i wanted to let someone else take the initial depreciation hit... i was able to find one with 39k on it, and basically put 60k more on it in the ensuing 2 years that were left on the cpo warrantee...

as far as the wheel question, it's entirely possible that the original purchaser of the car ordered it that way. ask. it can't hurt.

-Chris

tenet1

Thanks for the advice. I will check out the sound. Though it does not seem to sound as bad as yours, it can definately be annoying when you are aware of it. Once I nail it down, I'll get the instructions from you.

kominsky

I have a 2000 brochure sitting here and the 328Ci SP wheels are the same as the 330Ci SP wheels. The 328i w/SP had the seven spoke wheels that are currently found on the 325's w/SP.

kominsky

1) The non-PP does NOT have adjustable lumbar support, manual or power, at least not on the Sport seats. I have a bad back and have had no problems with the Sport seats in spite of this exclusion.

2) IMHO the leatherette is great. It's very easy to care for and most people think it's leather. Personally, if I would have gotten the beige interior, wood would have been a necessity. I think the beige painted trim looks too 'seventies'.

4) If you decide to get the alarm, I'd recommend buying and installing yourself. It can be picked up for ~$220 and installation is a breeze.

6) I've heard that the non-metallic paints do not have a clear-coat. I don't know if this is true or not, but IF it is, the metallics would probably be more durable.

Good luck with your purchase!

nyccarguy

I can rationalize buying a CPO BMW in my mind with the factory warranty and extended CPO warranty and that its probably an off lease car, but then I say to myself that the 3 cars I've owned since age 16 have been new and that I'd be "downgrading" (no offense to anyone) to a used car. I'd probably be just as happy with a new 325 rather than a used 328. The depreciation argument is a great one. If I only drive the car a few times a month (I live in NYC & keep my car at my 'rents house in the burbs) then a used car in great condition would make sense to me. I guess one could ponder this for quite a while. I've really got to think about it and then of course check with my check book when it comes time to turn my Saab in next December. Thanks so much for all your help...everyone!

ccotenj

actually, renting a car when you need it would make the most amount of sense...

it would make the second amount of sense to buy used...

it would make least amount of sense to buy new (even if you consider that "downgrading", i think i understand what you meant there, but i had owned 5 new cars in a row before i bought the 3er), considering how little you drive it and the depreciation hit you are gonna take on it...

however, it's yo' money...

-Chris

nyccarguy

I can rationalize buying a CPO BMW in my mind with the factory warranty and extended CPO warranty and that its probably an off lease car, but then I say to myself that the 3 cars I've owned since age 16 have been new and that I'd be "downgrading" (no offense to anyone) to a used car. I'd probably be just as happy with a new 325 rather than a used 328. The depreciation argument is a great one. If I only drive the car a few times a month (I live in NYC & keep my car at my 'rents house in the burbs) then a used car in great condition would make sense to me. I guess one could ponder this for quite a while. I've really got to think about it and then of course check with my check book when it comes time to turn my Saab in next December. Thanks so much for all your help...everyone!

nyccarguy

I actually considered renting, but renting is very expensive in the Manhattan (upwards of $100/day) and I can't rent a BMW for that price anyway. So if I take the car from Friday to Sunday (that's only once a month) its kinda equal to a lease payment (lease payment is more but id rather have my own car). I figured CPO because I want to buy this time and I won't take the depreciation hit and the car should last a long time.

ccotenj

ok, that makes sense...

i really think cpo is your best option... you aren't going to be driving that much, so you don't have to worry about the mileage too much, plus, as we discussed, you can let someone else take the "drive it off the showroom floor and depreciate" hit...

-Chris

errickson2

Thanks for the tip. Found this link while doing a search...

http://www.childseat.com/whats_new/wne_detail.cfm?wne_id=11

rpadilla

Does anyone have any personal experience with either of these tires? Any preferences?

Ray

drcr

Question for those who may have experienced this.

I was in a rental going from Fl to GA and got a ticket (86 in 70). Here is the kicker. The rental was a 2002 but the officer put 2000 on the ticket. Is this one of those technicalities that will allow for dismissal?

Second, he got me at a 90% angle (him on side of road)accross 3 lanes in a pack of 3 cars and 2 motorcycles. How could he really have gotten just me? BTW I was not traveling the fastest. I guess he just picked one out.

Oh yeah, will a FL ticket show up on a GA license?

Thanks in advance

drcr

drcr

did anyone get a final resolution on the sticky gas pedal on hot days. Had mine brought in and they saw it on a cool day so they couldn't assess the problem. Figures.

I have been also experiencing a strange feeling in the clutch pedal about 3/4 released. Something like the connection/pivot point on the pedal itself is not right. It only happens sometimes though. Service couldn't feel it. Anyone had this