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BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier



  • nohash1nohash1 Posts: 21
    can someone help me with european delivery? How hard is it and what kind of discounts can you get. derprofi you got yours for 32k with tax what was msrp? help?
  • aaron330iaaron330i Posts: 136
    Generally the dealer will put a coat of wax on the car before delivery to make it look nice. Dawn will take it out.
  • mschukarmschukar Posts: 351
    Take a look at

    All your questions can be answered there.


  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    I installed the BMW alarm in my 1995 3er. Turned out the control module was defective. My dealer replaced the module under warranty even though I offered to do the R& R myself. Any dealer that tries to scare you out of installing a BMW accessory such as a CD changer or alarm yourself is slime. Period. And you can tell him I said so.
  • gurumikegurumike Posts: 442

    I got this link from another board member from a few days ago. The all-in-one really is just that. It doesn't matter what's on the paint, whether it's new from the dealer (and there-fore well waxed(in theory!)) or if it's been car-washed for a year. If you have an older car with more severe build up of "hard" debris on the surface, Klasse will remove it but in that situation I would likely buy a small clay bar (or use one at work !!) for ease.

    jk26 - click my name for my profile and email me with that question! :)

    mschukar - My 330i was a May production and therefore had H.K. standard. I would not have ordered it if it were optional. I haven't changed any speakers. I've had all the different high-end speaker combinations available and, for my ears, the factory speakers perform quite well provided you don't ask them to reproduce lower frequencies at any medium to high volume. An after market sub-woofer doesn't have to take up half the trunk and totally transforms the whole listening experience. I scored an Xtant mono amp on eBay for $100 and I purchased my "didn't really need a 10 inch" Bazooka tube for $186. About $35 total in shipping. I'm friends with one of the owners at a local home theater shop who used do installs for 10 years. He put the amp in for free, but it only took an hour so I'd guess any local stereo place would do the same for around $50. Let's say you're not as cheap as me. I'm fairly sure the local Circuit City could supply and fit similar equipment for well under $400 all-in. That will certainly offer performance well in excess of the $675 H.K. option. If you're leasing and/or you don't mind paying a little more, factory H.K. AND the additional sub would definatley be best. Beyond that, you'd need to be spending around $2,500 - $3,500 at a decent stereo shop and entirely replace the factory audio equipment. As for installation, it's a breeze. The amp has 4 wires going in to it and what they need to be connected to is all in the trunk !! The factory amp, on both standard and H.K. cars is behind the panel on the left of the trunk. You can easily pick up the signals from the wires going into the amp for the remote turn-on and the audio signal. I'd have to look to see which ones they are. We only need one audio line as we're running mono. Then it's just pos. and ground! Any part of the cars metal body is ground, so just a short cable to either an existing nut/bolt combo or, as I did, screwed to the parcel shelf's underside. The battery is already in the trunk so it's not going to be too far from the amp. Then it's just the one line of speaker wire to the sub. Pictures to follow...

  • gurumikegurumike Posts: 442

    This is where I purchased my tube from. I got the RS104 (10 inch, 4 ohm). They have a link to Bazooka's home page at the top.

    Not the most comfortable I've felt buying something on eBay! No pics, thin description and came to me in an USPS Priority Mail box with some screwed up newspaper for protection! But hey - it works !! I highly recommend trying to buy the same item, this model's frequently for sale there.

    Some more info on Klasse.

  • gurumikegurumike Posts: 442
    The Klasse one should have been:

    I wanted to edit the above post, but Edmunds edit feature will not permit a "word" greater than 17 characters in length. Odd.

    The information on how to use to product is good.

  • uge123uge123 Posts: 100
    Hey everybody! Been rather busy recently so I'm just checking in. My 325iT has 3200 miles so far and it a complete dream to drive. After a bumpy start where I was a victim of the faulty fan, things have been great. The A/C has been absolutely great in the recent bout of summer heat (95 in Chicago). I feel like I'm still breaking in the upper range of the tach but the car seems to be getting stronger and stronger with each passing 1000 miles. I love driving this car. I usually commute at odd hours so I have the road largely to myself. The feeling of power as I cruise off the clover leaf ramp onto the expressway at an incredible speed if exhilerating. Quite a way to start a morning. I even enjoy the vehicle in the awful traffic we can have here in Chicago (on the rare times that I have reasonable hours). The car has impressed everybody that has ridden or driven it, even my father, who's a complete M-B fan.

    I only have a few complaints about the 3 wagon.

    1. It could really use a 6th gear. 1:1 in 5th gear means that 60mph comes at about 3000rpm, about the same as my old Integra. This impacts fuel economy and eventually can lead to increased wear. (oddly, the car seems to get better milage at 75 than at 60)

    2. The continental sport contacts that come with the sports package chirp and squeal all too much for performance tires. Any suggestions for the eventual replacement? What tires have worked for you?

    3. A combo CD/tape player should be standard in a car of this price range.

    Other than those things, the car is perfect. Everything is intuitive, the controls are perfectly weighted, the handling is phenomenal. I love this car!
  • stgreenstgreen Posts: 74
    - 330xi should arrive in a week or so.. question:
    * Where is the definitive internet place to buy BMW products like mud flaps, all-weather trunk liner, rubber floor mats and things of the like for my new car?
    * Also - what is 'fair' for installation of mud flaps. (I live in Western Mass and in a snowy area)

    thanks -- stg
    also - thanks for warranty info on electrical equip.
  • Andy98Andy98 Posts: 15
    A month ago I negotiated a price for a 2002 330AWD based on (then available) 2001 prices. Of course, there was an understanding than any 2002 price increase would be factored into my final purchase price. I have been reading on another BWW chat board that the 2002 increase amounts to 2.7%. Can anyone confirm this figure or provide an accurate one if this is erroneous? I find this hike to be, quite frankly, quite high (about $1,000 on the model I purchased), considering that I was told that the hike should be between 1%-1.5%. Thanks for any help.
  • ed_ph413ed_ph413 Posts: 17
    I just bought a set of M Spoke 68 Wheels with the 17" ContiSport Tires (standard on 330i SP) for my 2000 328i non-sport package. What tire inflation is recommended for these since these tire sizes are not posted on my door sticker.
  • derprofiderprofi Posts: 250
    I'm not exactly sure HOW I manged to post a message here that I intended for the "What is this BMW thing" thread, but I did. Sorry!
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    I got my 325i back on Saturday morning and there are quite a few things that I'd like to share with you.

    I got the steering retrofit (4/2 build). In short, no big difference. It feels a tad heavier, that's all. There is no improvement in the already great road feel - I have always claimed that the issue with post-January cars is not road feel but purely assist. I took out a June build 330ci out for a back-to-back comparison. The June build felt the same as my 325i before the retrofit. The retrofitted steering felt a bit heavier off-center, giving you a better sense for how much you're turning without looking at the wheel (slightly better on-center feel). However, the feel right in the center (within a 1-2 inch wheel turn) still feels a little vague and it seems to me that it should be more responsive than that. The biggest difference due to the retrofit is felt at high speed (>80 mph). At that speed, the steering tightens up considerably and responds to smaller steering inputs. There is, however, more wander at high speed than I'd like to see. The steering weight of my retrofitted 325i is much closer to the June build 330ci than the '99 323 with the original heavy steering that I drove a few months back. I'm not sure what to recommend to those of you considering the retrofit. If you have a 3-series with the really light steering (pre-January build), you will notice a significant positive difference, just like Kominsky described it a month ago. If you have a post-January build, you will only notice a minor positive difference. I thought that it would have been easy for me to go through the steering retrofit mentally but I have to admit that I was anxiously comparing the steering after the retrofit and I spent too much time overanalyzing the results. If you are happy with your car's steering, don't touch it or be prepared to endure some painful doubts. BMWNA made a mess out of this issue and although they managed to turn it around into good PR, the retrofitted steering is NOT the same as the original 3-series' heavy steering, such as that found on the '99 and '00 323 and 328 models.

    I had to fight with the dealership to take another 3-series out for a back-to-back comparison. Was I asking too much you think? Maybe I have unrealistic expectations for what's reasonable but it seems to me that there is lots of room for improvement in BMW Peabody's service. It has been my experience so far that being very polite with them takes you only so far. Insisting and holding your own works much better. It should not have to be that way.

    After sensing that a BMW owner was going to make a scene right in the middle of the showroom on a busy Saturday morning, they put me in a 330ci step and although I did not ask for it, they told me I could take it out by myself for as long as I needed to. I only drove it for 5-10 min - the step is exceptionally smooth but no fun :o( The car had plenty of power on tap and I was able to get a good feel for its performance capabilities. At any RPM level, it's like punch the gas and you take off immediately. The 325 typically hesitates if you depress the accelerator all the way when the RPM's are below 2K. There is a huge difference between the 325 and 330 below 3K. However, past 3K RPM's, the 330 felt just marginally faster than the 325 and they both pull with relentless determination.

    I finally started using the V1 radar detector that I bought a month ago. I have not installed it the way I want it (no time) but at least I am using a thin phone cord instead of the coiled cord. It is almost invisible against the black interior background and especially if you don't know it's there. So far, all I can say is "Buy it". In and around densely populated and especially commercial areas, it is totally useless. However, out on a rural highway, it is tremendous help. The detection range is probably longer than what most people need and it has great rear detection as well. I never thought the directional arrows would be so helpful. It is enormous help knowing where the signal is coming from. It is very comforting seeing the arrows indicate that you are passing by the cause of alarm, which you most often do not see. The bogey counter is also great and very helpful in determining the likely cause for alarm. Mounting the V1 (or any other detector) on the visor is a big no-no for the 3-series. It renders the visor obsolete but most important, you cannot easily see the warning lights and info up there. Mounting it way up on the windshield is excellent - the suction cups are behind the blue tint line and the V1 unit itself is right underneath the tinted line. You cannot see it at speed and it is barely visible from outside when the car is motionless. Once I run the cord behind the panels and hook up the concealed unit, it will be totally invisible from outside. Do buy the concealed unit ($40) if you are thinking of buying the V1. In addition to being visible only to you, it will be on the dashboard in front of you, which is by far the best place to be looking for detection info. You don't have to take your eyes off the road/dash to find out what the beeps are telling you. In my limited experience with the V1 so far, I think it is unsafe to drive while looking up there for detection info and trying to interpret it at the same time. The concealed unit is more convenient, discreet, compact, and much safer. Unlike the built-in K40 radar detector, which is more than twice the price, you get the bogey count, the directional arrows, and the flexibility to use it with different cars. Even so, the V1 is no substitute whatsoever for you natural radar detection abilities (common sense). It is just a supplement that has to be used wisely and should not distract you from the road.

    As a final note, I drove from Boston to Albany (170 miles) for work this morning. I've been doing it for 5 weeks now. I get reimbursed for the miles and the way I look at it, my company is paying me to drive my BMW. It is the type of work that I would have gladly paid for :o) Call me crazy but I am actually looking forward to my 2 1/2 commute. I am not at all a morning person but when I wake up at 5:45 AM, I am excited about the drive I have ahead of me. I get out of the car 2 1/2 hours later energized and with a smile on my face... I'd turn at least a couple of times to look at the Shtroumpf before I enter the office building. I guess it's some sort of a mysterious "BMW Thing" because I've never felt that way about any other car, except for that 911 that I once drove for a day.
  • Can anyone with a 2001 325i let me know what the engine's RPMs are at 60 mph? I am curious if they are high if you can hear much engine noise at that speed. Any help/comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • mfeldmanmfeldman Posts: 140
    Thanks for the write up. Can you tell I've been waiting for your steering review. Sounds like no downside for you. Wre you just anxious about the process. Actually I like the idea that the retro is a little less heavy than the original 328, whoch was a little slow for my taste.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Hmmmmm, I REALLY like the heavy steering in my 328i, and if your retro-ed (is that a word?) steering is an example of what comes on the 2002 E46, I may decide to keep mine longer instead of swapping for a 330i when the lease comes due next year.

    Thanks for the analysis.

    Best Regards,
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    mfeldman - I know you were waiting for the write-up and I would've posted it on Saturday, except we had an RCN broadband install on Friday and they left us without a phone line or Internet connection of any sort. Dealing with them has been a total nightmare so far - I cannot figure out how this company is still in business. You're correct, no downside at all - it is mildly heavier in a positive way and definitely lighter than the 323/328. I like it better but like Shipo, I did like the original 323/328's steering feel even better.

    Shipo, as I mentioned in my previous post, the retrofitted steering is heavier than the June build 330ci that I took out for a drive. I think the '02 models will be just like that car and if you like you 328's steering just the way it is, you will likely be very disappointed with the '02 models' steering. Again, my 325's retrofitted steering is closer to the June build models that it is to the original 323/328's steering.
  • tcn2ktcn2k Posts: 277
    01 325i with step at 60 is around 2300 rpm. I think since i never go that slow. Usually at around 80, the rpm on mine is about 2800 or 2900 or so.

    shipo - iwould would go test drive the 02, since i think bmw probably took car of the problem since there are so many complaints. Although the new front end is ugly in my taste.....
  • allanoallano Posts: 175
    Since you are not getting any responses for a manual transmission, I'll add that the 325 wagon, which might have a higher rear-end ratio than a sedan, cruises around 3200-3400 at 74mph and somewhere around 2700 - 2900 at 60mph (I don't remember the exact numbers). In any case, you don't hear the engine (wind or road noise) at cruise, only when you accelerate.
  • I've got an Inspection 2 coming up at around 52K miles. Anybody know approx how much lunch money I need to save up??
    How much at BMW dealer vs authorized service center??
  • gurumikegurumike Posts: 442
    The BMW dealer IS the authorized service facility. An unauthorized service facility is unlikely to save more than $100. That said, I'm really not sure what the cost will be (300-400?)
  • Sorry...I meant independent I think, not authorized.
  • rpadillarpadilla Posts: 53
    Just wanted to thank everyone for their input, and I will let y'all know how it turns out esp. you, 325i87).

    Kominsky -- u da man, thanks for your help! (haven't decided on the wheels yet...tire rack has yet to come back to me with a set of options).

    genie1 -- where'd you go?

    This car is absolutely amazing....wouldn't trade it in for the world (maybe an M3, though).
  • genie1genie1 Posts: 398
    I was treating my car with Zaino. Almost slid off the hood a couple of times. ;)

    I haven't exposed it to the elements yet...will have to wait and see how it wears.

    But it looks great so far.

    Good luck with the snows. Let me know how they work out for you.

    If you haven't been to Nashville, IN, check it out one weekend. Its a tacky tourist trap (no offense if you like that sort of thing) but the drive from Bloomington, IN is fantastic in a car that likes the curves.

    Besides, the leaves should be turning soon.
  • allanoallano Posts: 175
    Since you have tried two wax types on your car, I'd be interested in learning if you believe Zaino is worth the 2nd effort.
  • killer99killer99 Posts: 21
    Is anyone else having difficulty with the Message Center in Town Hall... The message center is not indicating that there are new messages in my subscribed boards, when I can see elsewhere that there are new messages in said boards?


  • mfeldmanmfeldman Posts: 140
    I was set for this wednesday, but it's a busy week at work so the retro will be next week. Glad to hear that there is no braking vibration or alignment problems. Did they do a real alignment?

    I hope the retro will cure the mystery left-right imbalance. If it doesn't I'll be real frustrated.

    What I still don't get is if the 328, retro and 6-01 cars all have the same rack, why do they all feel different?

    Take Care
  • genie1genie1 Posts: 398
    My 2cents so far on the wax vs polymer job on my BLACK bimmer:

    The Mothers system was labor intensive. My brother and I took an afternoon to complete. It lasted all of one month (more like three weeks). I had the worst time with water spots (not just from Toronto's polluted rainfall but also from just the weekly wash.

    I didn't WANT to wash my car every week, but HAD to. This is because the car was soon covered in sticky dust even when it sat in my garage. I dreaded washing the car because I seemed to redistribute the dirt and add a splatter of water.

    I'm not a neat freak but it really bothered me to see my beautiful car covered in dust and water spots.
    All I wanted was to reduce the water spots that I got when rain fell on the dust on the car. And a good coat of protection for winter. I don't mind the elbow grease initially as long as the followup is maintenance free.

    Spent a couple of hours Saturday and an hour Sunday Dawn/Z5/Z6/Z5 by myself. It took less effort but some planning around my weekend.

    If you pick up one tip from this: Buy the white 100% cotton towels. (even the finest natural chamois only re-distributes the water on the car). I was extremely impressed with the absorbency of the Fieldcrest towels (two are plenty - one to soak up the water, the second to wipe completely dry).

    After going through half the process, (I still need two more coats of Z5 on here before I switch to Z2) the car doesn't seem to be a dust magnet.
    The paint is slick to the touch, the towel just slides off after Z6 and the lint from the towels doesn't stick.

    Overall -
    I will have to see how it does this week, but initial results have been as promised. It was worth the effort so far.

    I will keep you posted as to how much dirt it picks up tomorrow when I drive it to work.

    PS. It looks glossy in a nice different way to the wax too.

    PPS. I'll admit, we may have been over enthusiastic with the wax and have applied too much (which could account for the stickiness). But I will have a hard time going back to a wax-based product from now on.
  • skorolskorol Posts: 11
    I want to ask anyone who has some mechanical knowledge for help. I have '00 328i manual. I gave my perfectly functioning car for service and inspection, and at the dealership they told me that the car needs an alignment since it pulls slightly to the right. I said fine, and they did an alignment for me. When I got the car back, it was shaking on smooth surfaces, and also felt unstable and was shaking on higher speeds as well. I took the car back to the dealership the next day, and when I got it back, it was even worse. Today I brought the car back to the dealership, and after examining it, they said that my rims were bent, and if I want to pay for it, they will change them for me, which will fix the car. I am no mechanic, but I realize that all problems started happening after wheel alignment, and there is not way rims have anything to do with that. Or if they do, then it means they bent them while doing the alignment. What could the problem be? Should I ask them to do the alignment again or what could go wrong during the alignment that made the care behave in a way that it does now. Thank you very much in advance.
  • I have a 2001 325i step. At 60 mph flat highway crusing, the RPM was reading at 2100 or 2200. Road/engine noise is minimum.

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