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The software engineers rolled in some changes last night, and some things changed that were not supposed to. AFAIK, no one can see anything but the last 20 posts in any given discussion.
The problem is being addressed, I assure you.
And no, at the moment there is no estimated get well time.
We are sorry.
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
Thanks Again.
Shipo
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
The 320i I test drove was automatic (they didn't have any manual unfortunately!). While it was nice and had enough get-up-and-go off the bat, it seemed to lack a little at higher speeds (esp. compared to the 325). How much of that is the automatic? Is there a noticeable difference with the manual?
As has been mentioned elsewhere, the clutch on the manual is very stiffly sprung, and requires more force than I'm used to. I could see this getting very tiring in city driving or in rush hour, stop-and-go highway driving, etc. It almost makes me reconsider the manual and think about the steptronic . Any thoughts from those who've encountered this? Is there anything to be done about the stiffness?
The salemen also said some other interesting things, that I'd be interested in people's reactions to:
- Don't bother with the DSC III traction control - it wasn't worth it;
- The steptronic is really a gimmick, and if I went with it, I'd end up rarely using it, and would just keep it on automatic. (I have heard this elsewhere);
- Don't bother with leasing - buy the car and finance it. In fact, don't even bother with BMW leasing or financing, since I could do better with my own bank. While I could perhaps see this on the financing side, I couldn't make any sense of his utter dismissal of leasing? Why would that be? Are BMW lease rates/residuals that bad? He was clearly reluctant to even disclose them, and I didn't push him (since I haven't decided whether the lease or buy).
- While regular maintenance is free of charge for the first three years, they strongly recommend a higher level of routine maintenance given our winter conditions up here. Hence, I should expect to end up coming in more frequently on my own nickel. While it was nice of him to disclose that up front, what are people's thoughts on that?
- They are anxious to increase their sales numbers this month at Otto's (so if you're considering, now may be the time). While this may of course been a typical sales ploy, I'm not sure it was. He didn't suggest his offer would fall off the table at the end of the month, rather that he was anxious to make sales this month. Not that it will affect my decision, but there may be more room to negotiate (if this is true).
- For those who are interested, his opening offer on a 325i with various options was to take off the PDI and delivery (which I gather is typical), throw in floor mats and wheel nuts (? he said I'd need them - huh???), and to also take off a further $400 (approx.) I understood, however, that this was simply a starting point.
Any thoughts, reactions, etc. much appreciated.
Mike
BMWs have excellent residual values and hance are great cars to lease. As Shipo (1999 328i) has stated before, he pays $5 or $7 a month more than his business partner who leases a Dodge Intrepid.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
In bad weather DSC III does help out, but it all depends on how you drive. If you enjoying driving hard, it's a worth while option.
maintenance: the big thing should be to keep the car clean during winter (i.e. get rid of all the salt, chemical crap) regularly.
The clutch does get smoother once broken in, but it's still pretty stiff. Once I got used to it, didn't really notice it during rush hour.
Don't bother with leasing - buy the car and finance it. In fact, don't even bother with BMW leasing or financing, since I could do better with my own bank.
It would really depend on your own situation. I purchased using a 3.9% balloon finance deal thru' BMWFS, (less than my bank's rate). I chose not to lease but have figured that my annual cost of using the car works out about the same either way, as I will not keep this car for long.
they strongly recommend a higher level of routine maintenance given our winter conditions up here.
Er...as long as you use synthetic oil, you only need to do the BMW recommended service.
OT: I just found out that in Canada I can write off part of my auto expenses (including monthly payments) if I use the car for business. Not just lease cost either, like the US!
I am right there with you on the performance. Given my choice, I would have LOVED a 330xi. The extra details - the door jam with aluminum, trim around the dash gauges, and all the other stuff that comes standard - would have been great. But I couldn't justify the price difference to the wife, especially after driving the 325. Like I mentioned, I live in the mountains (4200 ft) and have no problems passing up here.
My car is this:
2002 325xi
Oxford Green Metallic
Natural Brown Leather (LOVE that smell)
SP, CWP, part of the PP (myrtle wood and armrest - no charge)
I went with the window tint on the back (again - no charge)
I didn't get mats as where we live it is either really dusty or really muddy, so I opted for WeatherTech's mats - nice deep grooves for dirt and gunk.
I was not sure I would like the 17x7's the 325xi has, but now that I've seen them on the car, it looks incredible.
I bought the transceiver and will be installing it this weekend (I hope). I'm kinda wishing I had gotten the stereo upgrade, but for all intents and purposes, the standard works for me. I'm a gadget, button freak and LOVE lots of buttons in my car. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to wait until my wife buys her 325Cic.
It beeps when locking and unlocking...should I have lights come on when unlocking? Would be easier to spot in a crowded parking lot.
What about automatic door-locking at speeds over 15mph? Can I have it do that? Should I? It's probably safer, but the few times I've locked my car, I've found that pulling the handle twice to unlock is a pain.
So far the only things I've had to deal with were a check engine light that came on once (loose gas cap) and a plastic radiator casing that tore off when I went auto-crossing. Easy fixes!
Actually, I was able to use the armrest as a good negotiating ploy. I let it be known that I wanted the armrest on my 325. When I got them to an offer I liked, I said I would agree if they threw in the armrest...ok they said. Then, I got them to take off the labor to install the armrest ($150).
Basically, if you want the armrest, negotiate it into your purchase price.
-Murray
- nyccarguy: The DSC III is $690 CDN. Not a huge deal, but the salesguy's dismissal of it really threw me. He may have been trying to downplay many options, since he was really trying to get me into a 325 (not the 320), and the options quickly add up!
- Genie1: When did you get the 3.9% rate? Recently? That would certainly be better than my bank!
Does anyone know what sort of residuals there are for leasing the 320 or 325 (in Canada)?
Again, many thanks for all those who replied!
Mike
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
On a US Delivered car for a similar price I could get a car with Base Paint, Leather, SP, Heated Seats, Moonroof, & 5 speed.
you all are going to start to get sick of me...LOL!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I'm personally a fan of traction control in general. In aggressive driving or bad weather situations, it can think much faster than you can and make corrective changes. I dig it.
genie1 - I was talking to somebody about making a switch to synthetic on an older engine, and this is what he told me: in some cases, you'll find oil leaks in hoses. I don't know why this is, but the guy used to manage a Jiffy Lube, so I'm willing to take his word for it.
-Munich (pick-up and do the factory tour and maybe visit a concentration camp, i don't know if I want to depress myself. I will also get the M-Steering wheel put on, at BMW Niederlassung ,I was also going to get clears, but I think I will just buy them there and bring them home to install them here, I'm afraid of customs when the car ships back)
-Lugano(Switzerland)
-Maranello(Italy, visit Ferrari)Back to
-Stuttgart(check out Porsche or Mercedez museum, also visit some Castles)
-Salzburg(Austria)
-Back to Munich. I may do Frankfurt, and head over to check out the Nurburgring track if time permits.
Btw the car I'm picking up, is a 330i stick, [non-permissible content removed] silver, SP, PP (black leather), Heated Seats, Bi-xenons.
dave330i..leather is included in the 330i premium package, but not in the 325i premium package. I'm sure nyccarguy knows this, I think he's configured every single possible way to order the car either through ED or stateside delivery:) lol
Rob
it helps with opening the windows before I get in (i.e. I know when to hold the button down).
Unfortunately my car doesn't do that.
mike: the 3.9% was for 3er CPOs last summer. I believe it was 2.9% for 5ers and 0.9% for 7 series CPOs for the month of June. I'm not sure if they had similar teaser rates for new cars too.
I did notice that they have rolled out their spring TV ad campaign for the 3 and 7 series, so I don't think they'll be "dealing" just yet!
thanks
stg 2002 330xi PP CWP AWDSP steel blues/grey leather.
Speakers are usually rated at some maximum wattage they will accept without 'blowing'. You can usually easily exceed this rating unless you are really cranking the stereo, and then only when the speakers are really taxed, like a lot of different sounds coming from them, or a real heavy part of a song, would they blow, I guess the point is is that you have ENOUGH power to drive the speaker properly.
The other way around, if you buy high-end speakers that handle a lot more power than what your current amp offers, you DON'T have ENOUGH power to properly drive the speaker. What would usually happen is one would turn up the volume louder than what would be normal, the speaker would be trying to play louder than what it has to work with, and that would be a much more common source of a 'blown' speaker.
And remember, your speakers will only sound as good as the power that comes out of the amplifier, and how cleanly it transmits that power through your stereo CABLES.
I hope I helped you out a little
Rob
I recall reading several posts that the system should reset itself if you replaced the sensor. Evidently, this occurs in approximately one week with normal brake usage.
I hope that this is correct.
Parump
Thanks for the info. ;-) This should be interesting, a quick touch of the ridge around the edge of the rear brake rotors revealed that the said rear rotors have been ground away to about the same depth as my old front rotors. Indicating to me that I am going to need to pull the rear wheels this weekend and check the brakes back there as well. I suspect that I have another brake job coming up in the next week or so, regardless of whether the “Brake” light is a residual from the fronts that I fixed last night or the pending situation on the rears.
For those of you who are facing a pending brake job, and might be inclined to save yourself a few hundred dollars by doing it yourself (the cost for mine: 2 rotors $92, pad set $46, brake sensor $12 – total: $150), I will tell you this; replacing the front brakes on my 328i, turned out to be one of the easiest brake jobs I have ever done, and I would be willing to offer a fairly simple step by step set of instructions to anybody who asks.
Cecilt,
If you can hang on for a month, I will be posting my driving impressions of the 530i (PP, SP, Xenon, Premium Sound) that I have on ED order. I am currently driving a 1999 E46 328i PP, sans SP, so, it should make for an interesting comparison.
Best Regards,
Shipo
On the 3-Series, the steering issues were not so much that there were problems with the car, so much as there were folks who preferred the pre-2001 FEEL. The reviews of the three different levels of firmness all said the same thing, the car was very capable of communicating what the tires were doing, regardless of which steering setup a car had. The actual issue was that the 1999 & 2000 Model Year cars had a "Stiff" feeling to the steering wheel and for 2001, BMW made the mistake (in this case) of listening to folks ask for a lighter touch to the steering. After the press and enthusiasts got done HOWLING (justifiably so in my opinion) about the change, BMW essentially went back to the original feel, and initially offered to replace the steering on ALL 2001 E46 cars, and later on (now) limited the replacement to just the cars with the 3.0 liter engine.
I think I got all of this correct, other folks are more in-tune with the Steering issue than I am (specifically Brave1heart, he had his upgraded), so, hang tight, I suspect that they will chime in here shortly. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I helped a friend with a E39 last summer and we are no mechanics let me tell you lol , but it was very easy.
I was going to ask before you said your light went off why u were doing a brake job and then turning the car in? but i suppose that question is also answered.
I have 30k on my slush box and would imagine brakes would go alot quicker that your 5 speed. Sounds like mine might be i near future ;(.
DL
Thanks for the 30-60 second tip, I tried it this morning, and, no go. :-( I really suspect that the rear brakes may be the culprit, I will check tomorrow. Assuming that I need the rear brake job as well, I will try the reset again when complete.
Dl7265,
I decided that a brake job was in order before the light went off because, given how sensitive the steering and suspension is on a BMW; I could just barely feel some roughness through the wheel when braking. When I say barely, I mean that it was so subtle that I was wondering if I was imagining it because I couldn’t hear anything, even with the windows open driving next to a concrete wall. Oddly enough, I had just called Steve to order the parts when the light came on, timing. ;-) When I pulled the car apart, the situation became obvious, the sensor is on the left front of the car, while the pads were most worn on the front right, so much so, that the metal backing of the piston side (inside) pad was just starting to grind on the rotor.
As for your car, I am sure that it depends on the driving environment (among other things), given that I drive in and around NYC for my daily commute, I am sure that was a factor in needing the brake job at 37k. An interesting test (which I applied to my rear brakes yesterday) is to touch the ridge around the outer edge of the disk rotor. In my case, the ridge felt like it was maybe a little deeper than 1/16th of an inch.
530bmw,
Hmmmm, well, I am at least a little handy, back in the 1970s, I used to earn extra money while in college by overhauling the engines in my friends cars, doing valve jobs, clutches, brakes, tune-ups and even the odd transmission replacement. That said, I haven’t turned a wrench since then (relative affluence is a wonderful thing ;-))
As for doing the brake job on the 328i, no, I did not have a manual of any kind, it is really that easy. The only tools needed are: Torque wrench, 17mm socket (wheel bolts), 16mm socket and/or 16mm box wrench (caliper bolts), a metric allen key (I never checked to see which size), a couple of hammers with different sized oval wooden handles (to compress the piston by placing the handle between the two old pads and twisting the hammer head, thus gradually forcing the piston back into the caliper), a 14” stack of old new papers (to rest the caliper on after removing the caliper bolts) and something REALLY good at cleaning hands (I used Goop followed by Dawn). Figure on an hour for the first side, and 30 minutes for the second side (it’s not that one side is more difficult, it’s just learning curve).
Best Regards,
Shipo
Shipo: I'm sure you saved yourself a nice chunk of change by doing the brakes yourself. You should call your dealer and find out how much it would cost them to do all 4 brakes...lol.
Millero3: Sad, but true, I do have a 325Ci configured 8 different ways on an excel spreadsheet which compares the US Delivery & European Delivery. I've definitely got the fever! I Know...I'm a Big L;)
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I spent one and a half day in Ingolstadt (Audi's HQ), working, so I didn't get to explore the city too much. It is about an hour north of Munich, and it seemed to be a peaceful college town (correct me if I'm wrong). It is also modern and historic at the same time, on River Danube... If you're interested, I suggest you visit the Audi Museum, I didn't.
Went to Nurnberg for two days. It is another hour north of Ingolstadt. Nothing too exciting there... I then took a train to Munich, it is called "Inter-City Express" (ICE). The train is fast, quiet, and clean. It took only 1.5 hours to get to Munich.
I like Munich a lot, most of the tourist attractions are within walking distance, or easy subway ride (U-Bahn). However, I have to say I was kind of disappointed with the BMW museum. If you want to learn the BMW history, then it is the perfect place. If you want the latest-and-greatest, go to the BMW pavilion in downtown. You can also visit the Olympic park across the street from the BMW HQ. The tower has an observation deck and you can see all the way to the Bavarian Alps on a nice day. You can also see the entire BMW site, the factory is huge...
Side Note: When I got off the U-Bahn and walked up to the BMW museum, there were a big group of people entering a side entrance next to the BMW HQ. It turned out to be the factory entrace, and I guess those were the second shift workers. I wondered which one built my car. : )
Downtown Munich is full of beer halls (brauhaus), I recommend the WeissBrauHaus for dinner - Pork knuckle, the farmer's platte, or any kind of sausage; and go to the HofBrauHaus after dinner. I went there every night I was in Munich. You can also take day trips to the Neuschwanstein Castle (fairy-tale castle), and the Garmisch area at the Alps.
All in all, Germany is a great country, and I'll definitely go there again.
http://www.burg-hohenzollern.de/start_e.html
Of course, near Munich are 4 of Ludwig's castles: Hohenschwangau, Neuschwanstein, Linderhof, and Herrenchiemsee. Also, near Pronten (which is also nearby) is the proposed site of his next, and greatest castle, Falkenstein. There is the remains of an old fortress on the hilltop which is interesting in its own right.
Nyccarguy: I will be there from March 17-27.
Postoak: Neuschwanstein Castle, is one of the castles I definetely plan to see. I will also go to the Daschau(hopefully I spelled that right)concentration camp. I'm going to stay in Stuttgart 3 nights (Inter-continental hotel) and use that as my base, from there I will just take day trips, I was planning to stay in hotels near Neuschwanstein Castle, but decided not to, I don't think my wife and I want to be packing and unpacking the whole trip.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Oh, nevermind: It was the Michelin Motoring Atlas (book format) which they don't make for Germany. The regular Michelin map was what I wound up using. But I used the one they make of the entire country -- it wasn't detailed enough for backroads driving. I think this time I'll get their sectional maps.
2. How reliable is the BMW? I've heard horror stories about fans not working after 3000 miles. Do rattles come up after a few thousand miles? Is there a lot of wind noise/tire noise?
I was going to get a 2002 lexus ES300 because of it's ride and noise isolation but feel older (I'm 29) driving one. It's so quiet but so boring.