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http://www.bmwnation.com/tech/tech_3carkeycfg_01.html
So I take it you did Cinqueterre in one day, or did you leave the car overnight at the train station?
Can't wait to see pictures!!
HPMan
denk - You are correct, I had my clown nose programmed to blink when the doors were locked too. I didn't want the alarm (will I regret this?) but wanted it to look like it would. I believe you can also set the horn to sound when locking and unlocking. My car blinks once when locked and twice when unlocked (I may have that reversed tho). Nice.
yalesom - SoCal dealers... somebody mentioned Monrovia. While I didn't buy mine there, I have some acquaintances who have been buying BMW's there for over 12 years. That says something right there. If you want to up north a little bit, check out BMW of Bakersfield (ask for Dennis - 661-396-4040). He did everything he could to make us happy.
Man, I am SOOOO ready to be home. I miss my family and I miss my BMW. I thought about getting custom plates, since my car is green, I thought about GRNBEEM.
-Paul
rest: I went to an advanced high speed driving school at NHIS yesterday and I will try to put together a write-up some time today.
There is no minimum mileage requirement before turning the car over for shipment. You could pick it up and immediately drive it to the Harms location in Munich. In theory, you could then hop a flight back home the next day (if your system can stand back-to-back transatlantic flights and the fare doesn't have minimum stay strings attached). Do this off-season, and the costs are minimal. The only way you offest all the ED cost savings is if you turn the trip into a vacation, as many do.
The 1,200 miles that EDers reference is the initial breakin period, during which you observe speed, RPM, and other restrictions. What's magic about 1,200 to EDers is that once beyond that mileage, they can really open up their bimmers on appropriate sections of autobahn and other high-speed European roads. Which BTW I didn't do, dropping mine off in Paris at about 1,000 miles. Poor planning.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Where did you buy it? Which one is it, the All In One? How often are you planning on applying it?
Thanks!
Take a look at: http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=3671 You'll find that BMW 3 series rank 15th in initial quality with 101 problems per 100 vehicles and the Lexus 300is is 25th with 110 problems. Based on this, the answer to your question is no, at least for initial quality.
Regarding longer lasting/trouble free, how many 30 year old Japanese sedans do you see driving around? I frequently see BMW 2002's on the road, one I cross paths with most days on my way home from work. Same with Volvo cars that get hit pretty hard on initial quality, but seem to run forever.
IMHO there are two types of quality/problems: the annoying little things that require a visit to the dealer to fix (cup holder breaks, window rattles, etc.) and those that strand you on the side of the road several years into ownership. Our Volvo has had it's share of minor problems, but I feel that it will last longer than most cars on the road.
-murray
Having just completed a 39 month lease on an E46 328i (since replaced by the E46 330i, the model line, not my personal car, which is being replaced by a 530i) the differences between the E46 and the IS are MANY.
The performance is not the same, if I am not mistaken, the IS is faster 0-60 than a 325i, however, it is slower than a 330i.
The IS seems to be a near match to the 325i SP in terms of handling and braking, however, once again, the 330i SP is still more capable.
The IS300 has a fuel economy rating substantially less than the 325i or the 330i (with the latter of the two getting the best mileage).
While the IS300 has nearly identical exterior dimentions as the 3-Series, it is substantially smaller inside (to the tune of 3" less overall leg room) and a slightly smaller trunk as well. If you need to put anything larger than an infant car seat in the rear of an IS300, you are out of luck.
As far as design and build quality, any car (Lexus or otherwise) would be hard pressed to match the reliability of my 328i. Over the last 39 months and 40,000 miles, I have had two unscheduled maintenance events. Namely, two burned out taillight bulbs, which I replaced myself for something like $1.00 each. Along with the fact that most folks feel that the quality of the materials used in the 3-Series are superior to those used on the IS, and you have a vehicle that is tough to better.
To be fair, some folks say that the new Infiniti G35 has actually out ISed the IS, in that the G35 is finally a worthy competitor to the 3-Series (assuming that you can get past the visual styling and don't want a manual transmission, for which you will have to wait at least six months).
FWIW, there are two areas that over the life of the E46, have given BMW a bit of a black eye. The first was the Auxiliary Cooling Fan issue, where Siemens delivered a bad production run of fans that both quit (at the most inopportune times), and sometimes caught on fire. Thankfully, this problem has been rectified long since. The second was the “Light Steering” debacle, somehow BMW got it into their heads that their customers wanted cars with lighter steering (silly rabbit, Trix are for kids!), and “Obliged” us accordingly during the 2001 model year. Needless to say, the “Hue and Cry” that followed was enough to cause BMW to wisely re-think that move and to correct their mistake.
Should you ultimately decide to go with the 3-Series, I trust that you will not be disappointed.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Too busy listening to the engines lovely tune along with music coming out of the speakers.
-Paul
On my ex-328i, I used just the All-In-One, and was VERY impressed with how easy it was to use, and how well it protected. That said, on my 530i, I am going to use both the All-In-One and the High Gloss Sealant Glaze (which I have just recently ordered). Speaking of ordering, I ordered both products from http://www.properautocare.com.
They seem to have a good price, and I have had no problems with them on either occasion that I have used them.
RFreda,
I just responded to your E-Mail, please check your mailbox. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Can BMW engine be that sensitive to gas? I notice this happening only if you leave your car over night and the temp drops during the night time. Mine hestitate twice in the past little over 1 week period. But please let us all know dunde, if your dealer finds anything. Another reason i did not want to bring my car in is because these problems requires a few night stay in the shop, and i don't have time for such things.
Another problem i see is that when ever i wash my car, i would open my hood to dry the air duck area. But i notice that my steering wheel reservoir seems to have residue around the cannister like the top is not tight. It is tighten but i always have residue left over, so i have to wipe it every time. Anyone have the same problem. Since the lid don't have a rubber stopper, is the cannister designed badly? I am taking it in and have them check it when i bring the car in for oil change in the next month, but wanted to see if anyone is having the same problem.
You use the all in one and the high gloss sealant glaze. Does the all in one serve as the washing liquid, or do you use something there before the all in one?
-Paul
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thanks for that link to properautocare.com
I just ordered a bottle of Klasse polish and a bottle of 3M Imperial Hand glaze. One problem...this drought we're having here in the tri-state area. How do you plan to get around it? A Superbay (wash it yourself) or do you have some other way? I know you're not going to run your Saphire Black Beauty through a conventional car wash when it comes stateside!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
My experience with the BMW dealers in Houston is that they are arrogant, but I have found two salespeople (one at Advantage Clear Lake and the other at Momentum) who are terrific people and I would love to buy a car from either of them. They unfortunately will probably not budge much off of MSRP since the management of the dealers does not allow much more than about $500 off. As noted above all 3 of the 4 Houston dealers are owned by the same person and so this may be one of the reasons. The other reason is that the market will bear MSRP and this after all is America, You have gotta love it!
Jinglejill: Get over the no negotiations hang up that you have. If you want a decent car you can expect to pay close to MSRP. Of course you may have a chance on bargaining for the G35, but I am not sure how it is doing in SA. The Houston G35s are moving off the lot with relative ease from what I could tell. If you want a "good deal" buy a Ford Excursion, I recently heard and add for $10k off MSRP. I am a little surprised that a seasoned bimmer owner like yourself would even consider the G35. If you don't mind, I copied this message from 35 vs 330 board to reiterate what Car and Driver said:
Thanks for the CD article. It sums up what many 3 series owners have felt.
"And even if the Infiniti had come with a manual and arrived in time for that comparo, that doesn't mean it would have beaten the winning BMW."
"For Infiniti, the G35 is the first legitimate contender in the sports-sedan class. And for a division with about the same number of memorable cars over its 13-year life as the Detroit Lions had victories last season, it's damn well about time."
"Our only complaint with the steering is its oversensitivity immediately off-center. It makes the car harder to drive smoothly and makes the body do a slight lateral wobble at turn-in that is unbecoming of a sports sedan."
"The brakes are also guilty of this sporting faux pas. The pads take an overly tenacious initial bite."
"When the going gets tighter, as on some of the narrow wooded passes on our route, the G35 lets you know it's no go-kart. Pushed hard into tight bends, the G35 feels almost as large as it is. Despite an advantageous 53/47 weight distribution (thanks to its rearward-mounted front engine and rear drive), the G35 will push wide of your intended line. Maybe 225s would work better. If it lacks the last bit of razor-edge precision of the 3-series out on racy roads, the G35 nonetheless is a satisfying driver with familiar and welcome rear-drive dynamics."
"But the manumatic shifter isn't the only oddity in the G35 cockpit. In fact, the whole interior is odd. Control placement is not wrong; some are just not where you'd expect them to be. The power-seat controls are mounted in the inboard seat-bottom bolster, where they will surely be flooded with spilled soda pop.
There are strange, tiny triangular cubbies sprouting from the center stack. There are two small glove boxes instead of one large one. There's a deep, covered cubby at the top of the center stack (assuming you don't get the $2000 optional navigation system). The dash vents rotate up and down in a motion similar to twisting a shirt cuff around your wrist. The downside is they feel pretty cheap doing so. And there's a piece of plastic mounted to the headliner above the driver's door with a slit in it to hold your parking card(s). We know this because imprinted on the plastic are the words "card holder.""
"The wheelbase looks exceptionally long, the nose exceptionally low, and the tail short. Yet it sits hunkered down on the optional 17-inch wheels with a German presence. The only truly discordant view is the rear, with its 18-LED taillights."
"Still, it looks good enough, in all respects, that we're going to have to organize another comparison test."
This last comment is accurate. The G35 is GOOD ENOUGH.
The G35 is an accomplishment for Infiniti, but it lacks the refinement of the 3 series and they still are not convinced that it outperforms the 3 series. Of course it does cost $8k less, but I argue that you do get $8k less of a car making them similar in value. It is true if you only have $25k to spend on a car and you happen to stumble into an Infiniti dealership and fall in love with the G35 and end up spending $35k then it is the right car for you. In that case don't even think about looking at the 3 series cause you will walk out spending $40k and it is likely you cannot afford it. Buy the most car you can afford. If you have really tight budget buy a WRX or wait for the Evo VIII.
1johann -- I do not think the Lexus is in the same leage as the 330. The G35 is IMO the closest imitation available on the market now.
Holeinone -- I would never use a pressure washer on a car. Just wash it the good old fashioned way every week even if it looks clean. Use a car wash soap, not dish detergent. ( I gave a long diatribe about 50-100 messages back about washing cars).
Dave 330i - Well I have been reading too much of your stuff and I woke up at 3am this morning in a cold sweat thinking about getting 3 pedals versus sticking with the steptronic. This is what I decided: As you know I was going to get the PP, Xenons etc, but after reading all these posts I knew I had to at least add the SP to upgrade the tires and I figured that as long as I am upgrading for better tires, I might as well get the 18" (and I appreciate your comments regarding the unsprung weight above in this regard). So I have it set in my mind to get the 18" and I woke up and realized that I probably am a poseur if I spend all this money on these supersport tires and I am driving around with an automatic transmission. I am going to go with 3 pedals which I have always loved--the arguments of city driving notwithstanding. Thanks for the input.
Had to say yal.
Here is a nice technical question:
Does any one know the weight of:
1) The standard 205/55 R17 rims
2) The SP 245/40 R17 rims
3) The SP + 255/35 R18 rims?
However, if I've driven for a while (say 45 minutes city and hwy), and park/turn ignition off, then it sputters a wee bit if I have to re-start it right away.
I sometimes do deliveries (no, not pizza!), where I have to turn the engine off, then re-start it within two minutes and be on my way. I've almost come to expect the sputter, and crank it marginally longer. (But it's embarassing to not hear that engine growl on a dime like it usually does every morning...) Do I need a new battery? Or is it something else? Any ideas?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
A fairly common problem with pressurized fuel injections systems is known as “Vapor Lock”, which occurs when the fuel in a fuel line boils from engine heat saturation after the engine is shut off. This condition, when it occurs, causes a bubble or bubbles in said fuel line(s), and can cause a difficult re-start. Once the engine/fuel line(s) have cooled below the fuels’ boiling point, the problem should be non-existent. I do not know how the Canadians formulate their gasoline, however, it is known that some additives (such as ethanol) can make the fuel more volatile, and as a result, said fuel is more likely to cause Vapor Lock.
Also, if you do successfully start an engine suffering from Vapor Lock (many will refuse to start at all), the engine will sputter for a few moments until the bubbles have been flushed from the fuel lines.
Best Regards,
Shipo
i didn't notice it at first, but there is quite a bit of noise that sounds like mild grinding, while going at slow speeds. i notice it when the clutch is down, and it is not engine or brake noise.
is this appropriate to have this much road noise with the sport package? i am otherwise thrilled with the car's acceleration, braking and steering responsiveness. i also have the luxury package, and the interior is just beautiful!
thanks for your comments!
The only time I have this problem is when I've driven the car hard for a while, then tried to restart it right away. If it sits for a while then I have no start-up problems at all. I can't say I've noticed any pattern relevant to the temperature, but we have had a mild winter this year.
Regards,
Wabends
steel blue is not a chick color. you will not look like a pansy driving a steel blue bmw. i don't necessarily agree with genie1 that it's not as aggressive as black. i guess the darker colors are more "aggressive-looking," but your aggressiveness will be assessed by those around you based on how you drive. not that being overly aggressive is a good thing (people on the road will just think you are driving like an idiot), but there's nothing wrong with having a little fun with a nice car. no matter what color the car is (my favorite is black sapphire metallic), keeping it neat and clean and taking care of it says a lot more about you as the manly owner of a nice car than the color does.
leenelsonmd:
i liked your random things post despite the fact that it was slightly longer than the average post;)
i wholeheartedly agree with your decision to get three pedals instead of an automatic. when i get mine, that's definitely what i will buy. driving should be an enjoyable experience. with a quality piece of machinery like a 330i SP/PP/18inchers (i guess i shouldn't leave out the bixenons just to be complete), going to and from work can be much more fun with three pedals. go for it.
My question is: What is the best way to go now, in terms of buying a BMW? I want to get a BMW that will give me a good resale value in two years, so I can move up to the new 5 series. So, should I save some money over new, and buy a 2000 or 2001 3 Series, 5 Series? Or, should I buy a new 3 Series, or 5 Series, which would give the most value from the needs I have listed. Thanks for any comments or suggestions.